zuma sailboat rigging

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LaserPerformance Zuma Rigging Manual

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Summary of Contents for LaserPerformance Zuma

• Page 1 To avoid damaging contents, do not cut into packaging. a. Hull b. Mast kit which includes: Top section Tools: To rig your Zuma the fi rst Bottom section (larger diameter) time, you will need the following: Boom (with blocks attached) •...
• Page 2 2. Assembly Vang Sail assembly Th e vang system consists of two blocks and a line. Th e block After checking that there are no sharp objects in the area, lay with a shackle attaches to the eyestrap on the underside of out the sail near the boat.
• Page 3 3. Launching Before Launching Lock the rudder up and attach it to the boat by passing the tiller under the traveler and lining up the rudder pin with the pin- tles. Th e bottom groove should fi t into the bottom pintle, and when you push down on the spring-loaded pin, the top groove will slide into the top pintle.

Page 4: Maintenance

• Page 5 Laser, SB3, Sunfi sh, and Dart Dubai, UAE are trademarks used under license. +971 (4) 885 7601 LaserPerformance reserves the right to make design and/or specifi cation changes to any of their products as part of their continuous LASER PER FOR MANCE.COM development program.

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• Sailboat Guide

Zuma is a 12 ′ 9 ″ / 3.9 m monohull sailboat designed by Gary Grossman/Steve Nichols and built by AMF Corp. and Pearson Yachts starting in 1984.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Cunningham interferes with Vang on Zuma

• Thread starter sshev
• Start date Jun 25, 2018
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

New to this group and pretty new to sailing, and find myself in need of advice. I've got a little Zuma. My only prior experience was learning with a Sunfish. The Zuma has a gooseneck on the mast that pivots only up and down. It appears with this set-up the mast must pivot in its pocket in order for the boom to move in and out freely. The boat also has a Vang and a Cunningham. The Cunningham runs through a fairlead aft the base of the mast to a cleat on the deck. Part of the reason for the Cunningham is to keep the mast in the boat in the event of a capsize. The line from the Cunningham interferes with the Vang which I think will restrict the motion of the boom in one direction. I don't want to capsize right away because I can't let the sail out. Hopefully I can get a picture attached. What am I missing here?  

Attachments

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

I am guessing... but would like a bigger image where I can see the connections of the cunningham on the sail and the vang on the boom. .  

I don't have a picture showing that, but the Cunningham is up through a grommet in the sail and back to the topside of the gooseneck so when the Cunningham is pulled down, it keeps the mast in the boat and the luft tight. The Vang attaches to the mast and boom with clevis's and threaded pins hooking into U shaped straps on the boom and mast.  

run your cunningham line through the shackle that attaches the bottom of the boom vang to the mast. done. the cunningham would never be that far aft. easy pezzee  

what do i win?  

justsomeguy

jon hansen said: easy pezzee Click to expand

no, run the line back to the eye on the center line again. after the shackle  

I did try running the Cunningham through the lower Vang shackle. some better, but it still seems to me to restrict the mast motion if the Cunningham is pulled tight and anchored to the deck. Seems like the goose neck should have been the type that pivots horizontally as well as vertically.  

grommet, shackle, eye, jam cleat. easy pezzee  

it's crude, but it'll get you sailing google zuma photos. that's what most are doing  

you want the perfect downhaul, or just take your honey sailing? life is full of choices  

973 663 1242 ask for todd they will be open tomorrow in NJ  

You must keep the Cunningham close to the mast until it gets below the vang's mast attachment. Why don't you try wrapping the Cunningham around the mast once before threading in the deck fairlead. Or... you can simply attach a small eye strap(i.e a second fairlead) near the goose neck to keep the line close to the mast on the way down to the deck fairlead.  

Joe said: you can simply attach a small eye strap Click to expand

jssailem said: Not sure if you need to adjust the Cunningham. If not why run it to the cockpit? If you need adjustments then the eye strap will present friction into the line making adjustments improbable. Use the eye strap to hold a small turning block. Now less friction. Adjustments possible. If no adjustments needed then just tie the Cunningham off on the boat at the base of the mast. Click to expand

thanks for all the good advice. I'm not sure this was a big problem, but attached is my solution. (or solution in search of a problem) the first picture is the original goose neck. It pivots only up and down. The second is my McIvered version, created with eBay parts and a piece of 3/4" aluminum square stock. I didn't have to alter any part of the original boat's hardware I couldn't put back to the way it was originally either. I think this'll work better than the original design.  

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