irwin 33 sailboat

IRWIN 33 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of IRWIN 33. Built by Irwin Yachts and designed by Ted Irwin, the boat was first built in 1974. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 10.06. Its sail area/displacement ratio 16.74. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Universal, runs on Gas.

IRWIN 33 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about IRWIN 33 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the irwin 33.

IRWIN 33 was designed by Ted Irwin.

Who builds IRWIN 33?

IRWIN 33 is built by Irwin Yachts.

When was IRWIN 33 first built?

IRWIN 33 was first built in 1974.

How long is IRWIN 33?

IRWIN 33 is 8.38 m in length.

What is mast height on IRWIN 33?

IRWIN 33 has a mast height of 11.43 m.

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Irwin 33 mkii

The irwin 33 mkii is a 33.0ft masthead sloop designed by ted irwin and built in fiberglass by irwin yachts since 1976..

The Irwin 33 mkii is a moderate weight sailboat which is slightly under powered. It is stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser.

Irwin 33 mkii for sale elsewhere on the web:

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The Irwin 33 sailboat is a popular choice among sailors for its combination of performance, comfort, and affordability. Designed by Ted Irwin in the 1970s, this sailboat has a sleek and sporty design that is optimized for speed and handling. The hull is made of solid fiberglass, making it durable and easy to maintain. The boat also features a spacious cockpit that can comfortably accommodate up to six people, making it ideal for day sailing or short trips.

Below deck, the Irwin 33 sailboat offers a surprising amount of space and comfort for a boat of its size. It has a large salon with comfortable seating, a galley with a stove and sink, and a private head with a marine toilet. The boat can sleep up to six people in its two cabins, with a large V-berth in the bow and a double berth in the aft cabin. With its combination of performance, comfort, and affordability, the Irwin 33 is a great choice for sailors who want a reliable and versatile sailboat.

LOA: 33.00 ft LWL: 27.50 ft Beam: 11.17 ft Draft: 5.50 ft Displacement: 10950.00 lbs Ballast: 4200.00 lbs Hull type: Fin w/spade rudder Hull construction: FG Rigging type: Masthead Sloop

Irwin 33 for sale in the last 12 months

Looks like this is a boat rarely offered for sale - we could not find any listings in the last 12 months. Please come back and check at a later time or add this boat to your list to be notified if one is available for purchase.

Irwin 33 listing prices over time

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1974 Irwin 33

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Can anyone give me any info on how much one of these boats is worth? Fair condition.. needs new sheets and some work done... rough ideas are welcome  

Well NADA suggest list of $24k, with a average retail of $10k and low retail of $9k. https://www.nadaguides.com/Boats/1974/Irwin-Yacht/IRWIN-33-SL/10093864/values New sheets, maybe $50.00. Engine, standing rigging, sails, deck saturation, wiring, rudder condition, drive train, and on and on. Blisters? Value is hard to say even from pictures. My suggestion, look at a ton of boats before buying one. Boats are like wives, hard to get, expensive to keep and you are going to lose a lot of money when you rid of them.  

I have a feeling he meant sails, as sheets would be an inconsequential expense when buying a boat, as you pointed out.  

I have been researching boat prices for nearly 5 years. I have read ads on various web sites and at various brokers pages. I have called after the sale to find out what boats actually sold for, compared to the original asking price. One thing I have learned is that there is really no way to judge the sale value of used boats like there is with cars. Prices seem to vary drastically depending on things like region of the country, condition of several different systems on the boat, and even whether they were used on inland lakes or saltwater. Prices are influenced by the reputation and pedigree of the boat model, designer and builder. Prices can be influenced by a large variety of available navigation and communication equipment, and refrigeration and autopilot add-ons. I've noticed that a boat that has a reputation as a good racer, but as being less comfortable as a cruiser, may go for less in the Bahamas than a comparable boat in the Great Lakes. Conversely, I've noticed that a boat that has a strong pedigree as a blue water cruiser may sit for some time unsold on the Great Lakes but a comprable model located in a coastal area in the South may sell rather quickly at a higher price. I watched the ad for one boat for a while that proudly advertised that it was equipped with a loran navigation system. Loran systems have not been supported with shore stations for about 15 years or more.  

Thank you all. I looked everywhere for the NADA so thanks for the link. I've been helping an 89 year old man take care of this boat and he wants to give it to me. I refused it for free and wanted to make him a reasonable offer. Its still solid, no blisters, it could use a new main sail within the next year though. I did mean new sheets, I just didn't know they were so inexpensive as everything else I've bought for it seems quite expensive.. He has told me more than once; "This is a rich man's hobby you know." HAHA. No salt water except two trips from Vermont to Maryland through the canal. As you can probably tell I've only really dabbled in sailing but I've taken a course and have been sailing with friends on many occasions. It needs some TLC for sure, but I'm really looking forward to calling it my own and working on restoring the things he has had to neglect due to his and his wife's health. I appreciate the quick responses.  

Irwin made several different 33 footers with a number of different configurations. In really good condition the boat is worth around $12,000-13,000, but that boat needs a new mainsail. A new mainsail will cost between approximately $1,100 and $2500 depending on the quality. If the mainsail is in rough shape then you probably need a new jib before long which is another $2,500 to $3,0000. Jib sheets for that boat would probably be 66 feet of 7/16" dacron double braid at roughly $1.35 per foot. The mainsheet would probably be around 70-80 feet of the same. And if the sheets are in bad shape, then you are probably pretty close to needing halyards. That makes the value of that boat closer to the $5,000 to $6,000 range and you will need to be prepared to spend double that ob maintenance if you own and sail that boat for more than a few years. Lastly I strongly suggest that you get the boat professionally surveyed so that you know whether there are any 'fatal flaws' such as keel bolts, which on the fixed keel model could easily be at the end of their 'use by date' especially since this is a fresh water boat and so would often more prone to crevice corrosion than a sail water boat. Jeff  

In Florida NADA values are worthless for older sailboats 35 feet and under in average shape - there are just too many for sale - some quote NADA values in their ads - and the boat never sells - they are only worth what someone else is willing to pay - which right now is not much - I would guess if your boat was in Florida and had a working diesel engine - it would sell between $5K to $8K - but is might sit for a while - Irwin is generally not a make that people go out of their way to look for -  

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1975 Irwin Yachts 33 Full Keel

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Irwin 33 masthead sloop for sale

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Irwin Citation 34

A mainstream coastal cruiser from an economy builder still managing to survive..

Irwin Yachts has been in operation for 27 years, one of the true old-timers in the fiberglass sail boat business. When we talked to them regarding the Irwin 34, they had just weathered the roughest storm of their history, having settled with their creditors and recovered from Chapter 11, when many other companies in similar situations were folding.

Irwin’s recovery was marked by the start of a new production 50-foot cruiser. The new boat, like all the boats throughout the company’s history, was designed by Ted Irwin, who has served continuously as CEO of the company as well as chief designer. In this respect, Irwin is like Catalina Yachts, whose CEO and chief designer Frank Butler is second only to Irwin in business longevity.

Like Catalina, Irwin has generally aimed at the economy end of the sailboat spectrum. However, unlike Catalina, Irwin Yachts has built a great variety of sailboats, 47 different models before their latest 50-footer—all sailboats, all larger than 20′, from all-out race machines to full-tilt cruisers. Among American companies, only Pearson comes close to Irwin in the variety of cruising sailboats produced over the last quarter of a century.

The Irwin 34 is in many respects a typical Irwin boat. It was originally called the “Citation 34,” which was meant to indicate that it was more of a plush cruiser than the race-oriented Irwins at the time, but more of a racer than the larger cruisers.

According to the company, 305 Irwin 34s were built in the production run, from 1978 to 1985, a moderate but successful model for the era. Near the end of its production, the boat was advertised as the Irwin 34 rather than the Citation 34. There were no major changes in the boat from beginning to end, just the details and equipment that are typical of any long production run.

Owners report mixed feelings in dealing with the company. Irwin dealers got good marks, though there are a few complaints about “incompetents and crooks.” The main objection over the years has been about slow response from the company, especially regarding warranty claims on new boats and getting basic information on older models. However, long term owners report that the company seems to have ups and downs in customer service.

Design and Construction

In design, the 34 looks like a cross between the old 1960s beamy CCA centerboarder and the mid-70s IOR racer, a combination that results in a moderate design and hence a healthy coastal cruiser. The bow has a distinctive concave curve, typical of many Irwin designs, and a flattish sheer, with a molded-in cove stripe to make the sheerline appear a bit higher in the bow. The stern sections have the peculiar tuckup typical of IOR boats of the era. The trunk cabin is traditional looking and fairly low. Overall, we think the boat is an attractive example of the modern racercruiser.

Underwater, the hull is beamy and saucer shaped. The centerline of the hull aft of the keel forms a shallow fence which runs back to form a skeg in front of the spade rudder. Though the boat was available with a deep fin keel, drawing 5′ 4″, the centerboard model was far more popular. Company literatureadvertises a shoal draft keel as standard, with the fin and centerboard as options, but we have never seen a shoal-draft model and none of the owners in our surveys had the shoal-draft version. Brochures show the shallow-draft keel as identical in outline to the centerboard model but with no board installed.

The centerboard lifts into a shallow stub keel, and the pennant is a Dacron rope; it runs to the deck through a tube which forms a grab rail at the front edge of the galley. We examined three used 34s, and the two centerboard models each had badly chafed centerboard pennants needing replacement.

Other than the chafe problem, the centerboard version of the boat is probably to be preferred if you have a choice. Unlike some boats which are designed for a fin and compromised with a centerboard, the hull shape looks well matched to the board, and few designers have as much experience with centerboards as Ted Irwin.

The hull is a conventional lay-up of mat and woven roving. The deck is a conventional balsa core sandwich.

The three boats we examined all had decent gelcoat and exterior finish, but owners in our surveys report an inordinate incidence of gelcoat problems, including patches coming off, large voids, and excessive crazing. One boat we looked at had quite a few repaired spots in the deck molding, and we suspect most of the gelcoat problems were new boat problems. Once fixed, they should not be a major concern for the used boat buyer.

With regard to other elements of construction, quality is on the poor side. In fact, the three boats we examined were serious contenders in our own used-boat search but were finally rejected because we didn’t like many details of the way the boats were built. For example, two of the boats we looked at clearly had a history of deck leaks at the portlights and a variety of fittings. The interior is generally well finished with teak-faced plywood and an interior liner, but the ceiling and liner made it very difficult to get at the inside of the hull and deck to trace or fix the leaks. It was clear that the previous owners had little luck in stopping the leaks. Further, the hull-to-deck joint is fastened with sheet metal screws rather than bolts. The screws are installed both vertically, from the top of the aluminum toe rail, and horizontally, from the side of the toe rail. Through-bolting is preferable.

More importantly, on the boat we were most interested in, it was evident that the hull-to-deck joint was leaking, at best a nuisance, at worst a major repair job. Though we couldn’t examine most of the joint because of the interior joinerwork, we did find one spot where the deck molding actually did not overlap the hull flange. You could see the underside of the toerail from inside the boat.

On one boat, the deck cleats were fastened only with sheet metal screws, and on all the boats, the bow and stern pulpits were only screwed down rather than through-bolted.

There were several details—cheap through-hull valves, no washers on chainplate bolts—which were relatively easy to correct, but they put us off the boat. Obviously, Irwin believes these construction details are adequate, but we consider them very minimal or problematic—something we would feel compelled to correct.

In contrast to the details, the basic fiberglass work seemed solid and good on all the boats we examined.

The interior of the 34 is generally well done, good production-line work with teak veneer and plastic. Some of the details of the cabinetry were a little sloppy on the boats we examined, but all in all the interior of the boat, when new, was undoubtedly a strong selling point.

There are three good berths—a V-berth double and a quarter berth. The quarter berth will be just a little tight, especially at the foot, for a large, tall man. The settee is usable as a single berth (it’s a very comfortable settee), and the dinette opposite is convertible to a small double. The head is of good size, and the galley is well arranged in a sort of wraparound U. There’s a good electrical panel at the aft side of the galley. The nav station is set at an angle, with the table a bit small though adequate.

The Irwin 34 came with seven opening ports as well as forward and midship hatches, so ventilation should be good.

Stowage below is minimal, since tankage occupies space below the berths—a shortcoming of the modern hull shape. Tankage is adequate on the boat—30 gallons fuel, 80 gallons water, and a big holding tank for the head—a rarity on production boats of this size.

There’s little bilge in the boat, which can cause problems when you take water inside the hull. This showed up in the discolored and delaminated teak/holly plywood on the cabin sole of two of the boats at which we looked.

Original standard equipment is quite complete and modern—hot/cold pressure water, shower, propane stove, 4″ cushions, AC and DC electrical systems, and so on, meaning that little upgrading should be necessary, assuming the boat has been well kept.

Overall, the interior seems very desirable for a couple cruising or a couple with one or two children. There are no privacy doors for the forward cabin, so two couples will have to be (or become) intimate while cruising.

The deck is conventional but well done for working the boat. There’s a deck-opening anchor locker forward, wide side decks, and a good big cockpit with a small ice/beer locker, two lazarettes, and a propane tank locker.

A wheel was standard on the boat. A nice feature is that a portion of the cockpit sole is removable for superior engine access, the best we have seen on a boat this size. Cockpit drains are also large, another rarity on production boats.

The companionway opening is large, with just a small lip/step above the cockpit sole. While not desirable in an offshore boat, this is okay in a coastal cruiser and makes for easy access to the interior. Most owners will want to arrange a way to secure the lowest companionway drop board, so it can be left in place during rough conditions.

The mainsheet traveler is on the cabin top, just ahead of the companionway. While this is a convenient location, the boats we looked at had exceptionally unsightly dodgers because the multi-part mainsheet was somewhat in the way.

Performance

The boat came with a Yanmar 15, which generally gets good reports from owners, though some think the boat is a bit underpowered. A 20-hp Yanmar was available as an option, and this would be desirable if a buyer were choosing between otherwise similar boats; the 20-hp model would be smoother running as well as more powerful.

The boat we sailed handled adequately under power, though some owners report it difficult to back up straight. Most of the 34s had solid props, and the performance-oriented sailor will want to upgrade to a folding or feathering prop so the boat’s sailing ability isn’t hurt.

The boat has a big rig, well balanced between mainsail and jib, and as you can expect from Ted Irwin’s design board, it is a good sailing boat. With a PHRF rating around 160, it is slightly slower than other cruiser/racers of that era, like the C & C 34, but it will make good passages, especially off the wind.

Many owners report that they consider the boat quite tender, especially the centerboard model, but we found the boat to be reasonably stiff, with lots of initial stability from the beamy hull. We didn’t sail the boat in heavy air, but we suspect an early reef would be desirable. Cruisers will find that it works well to sail the boat under roller-furling jib alone.

Early boats may have the DynaFurl roller which came as an option from Irwin, and buyers may want to factor in a replacement in their price figuring. The boats are generally of an age where the original sails are still aboard and, for all practical purposes, best used as drop cloths. Though the boat was advertised as a “club racer,” we saw no used 34s with spinnakers or any spinnaker gear, so a chute and related gear may also have to be purchased to complete a sail inventory.

Standard winches on the boat were minimal, and an upgrade will be desirable if the original owner didn’t buy the optional package when the boat was new.

The rig is adequate, the only problem reported by owners being paint problems on the mast, perhaps from a poor priming job on the aluminum. The mast of one boat we looked at had been re-painted.

Conclusions

It is an excellent design, a wholesome all-around racer/cruiser with shallow draft that would serve a family’s needs as a coastal cruiser, at a reasonable cost.

Unfortunately, the Irwin 34 suffers from some corner-cutting: details of construction which are cheap or shoddy, such as using only screws to secure the hull-to-deck joint.

Realistically, those details should not hamper the boat’s use in normal conditions as a coastal cruiser, but are substandard compared to many other boats available. We generally would not recommend the boat to anyone contemplating ocean passages, unless considerable basic upgrading had been completed.

But for a coastal cruiser, for an owner who likes to do some upgrading, the boat is a handsome, well thought-out design, with a good interior, well equipped. In today’s market, it offers a lot of basic boat, especially if bought at the right price.

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1975 Irwin 33

• Description

Seller's Description

Go to Sailing Texas classifieds for current sailboats for sale Irwin 33, 1975 sailboat for sale $1,000 with $1,000 credit

2nd owner, entire life on freshwater in Lake Lewisville, TX 1975 Irwin 33 Lake Lewisville, Oak Point, TX Currently in a rented slip at the Dallas Corinthian Yacht Club - dcyc.org

For 5 yrs, this has been a project boat. All interior wood trim was removed to be stained and varnished (80%) complete - looks beautiful. Atomic 4 gasoline inboard engine head CRACKED. Previous weld failed, likely not winterized properly. Crack is on the water side, no oil in water. Transmission looks good with planetary reverse. New bimini and UV trim on genoa Sails are old, but fair condition - will move the boat but won’t win any races! Floats high on her lines, I walked all over the deck and does not seem to have soft spots, dry boat! No lie, boat needs a lot of work to be in any decent WAF (wife acceptance factor) and is the reason I need to part with it! Slip paid up through July 2022 Clear TX title in hand!

Offering a $1,000 credit (total) to Eagle Point marina for haulout AND http://www.usboathaulers.com to transport this yacht to your marina of choice. So, as soon as it it out of my slip and off the lake, it’s a free boat!

Sailboat data

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Shoal draft: 3.92’

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