rk 21 sailboat

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Engineering:RK 21

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The RK 21 is an American trailerable sailboat that was designed by Peter Barrett as a cruiser and first built in 1972. [1] [2]

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The design was built by RK Industries, a subsidiary of Coastal Recreation, Inc, in the United States . It was built starting in 1972, but it is now out of production. [1] [3]

The RK 21 is a recreational keelboat , built predominantly of fiberglass . It has a masthead sloop rig; a spooned, raked stem; a slightly angled transom ; a transom-hung rudder controlled by a tiller and a swing keel. The design displaces 2,000 lb (907 kg) and carries 665 lb (302 kg) of ballast. [1]

The boat has a draft of 4.58 ft (1.40 m) with the swing keel extended and 12 in (30 cm) with it retracted, allowing operation in shallow water, beaching or ground transportation on a trailer . The boat is normally fitted with a small outboard motor for docking and maneuvering. [1]

The design has sleeping accommodation for two people, with two straight settee berths in the main cabin. [1]

• List of sailing boat types
• ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 McArthur, Bruce (2020). "RK 21" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/rk-21 .  
• ↑ McArthur, Bruce (2020). "Peter Barrett 1935 - 2000" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/designer/barrett-peter .  
• ↑ McArthur, Bruce (2020). "Coastal Recreation Inc. 1968 - 1981" . sailboatdata.com . https://sailboatdata.com/builder/coastal-recreation-inc .  
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Any opinions on RK Industries 1978 21 ft

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Looking to buy my first sailboat and have pretty much decided on a swing keel as I plan to sail in the Rehoboth Bay and it has shallow areas and isn't too deep.I'm looking into a 1978 RK Industries 21 ft swing keel and would like opinions.Its only 1500,supposedly an older guy that just wants to get rid of it.No motor is included,sails are supposed to be in good condition,trailer looks good in pics and has new bearings ,wheels and rims.It has a pop top which concerns me for leaks.money isn't an issue so if there's better for the money I'd rather go that route  

Look around for a Catalina 22. Many thousands made, very popular and Catalina support, both from the factory and owners groups are second to none.  

A boat that size I think it really does not matter what kind it is, it is all about condition. It is not like the investment is so much (I know most around here are not made of money, but we are not talking mortgage) if you are not happy you can turn around and sell it for at least what you paid for it. Likely you will want to move up anyway, unless this really fills your future plans.  

Spoken like a person who hasn't tried to sell a 4ktsb lately. Yeah its small money paid. Yeah everything else he said is correct (it's only money)... however, selling an older boat even at cut-throat prices, can sometimes take a while (measured in months if not years). There just isn't a huge market for small sailboats. Given how long I've seen boats listed on yachtworld and sailboatlistings, I'd say it's not a huge market for pretty much ANY sailboat. With that the suggestion of a Catalina 22 is a good one, in that they are very popular and are generally easier to sell then some of the lesser known brand boats. And Catalinadirect is a great source of parts for anything Catalina/Capri. But if you really LOVE the boat, and the condition is what you like... then get it. One's ultimate decision shouldn't JUST be about what the thing is worth when you want to rid yourself of it. Be familiar with what it takes to rehab a swing keel (they nearly always need cable/pivot pin work). Also the trunk can sometimes have some minor crazing and worse damage. Like all boats, look at chainplates, gudgeons, pintles, hatches, through-hulls, and thump the hull for soundness (thud is bad, thwack/tap sound is good). Look for rotting bulkheads. Look for osmotic blisters... Check the mast step (is it square, and flat?)... Pulpits, and stanchions, check for bends (if bent check the deck underneath for cracking or leaks). Check the bow eye (look inside the boat), last 3 boats I've bought had damage to the bow-eye (some monkey probably thought the boat could be lifted from the bow eye). A trailer is involved, so look at the BACK of the tires (where most dry rot is prevalent)... jack up the wheels, spin them, listen for marble in a coffee can sound. Inspect the brakes (if it has them - pull a wheel)... check the actuator (again if it has brakes). Check the ball clasp. Inspect the safety chains. Test the lights. Check the trailer winch, and strap. I could go on for days about this stuff.... NONE of it is a game changer, but put time/money/hours to each of those repair jobs, add it to the listing cost, and ask yourself if it was fixed/repaired is the boat "worth" that kind of cost to you. My last 3 boats cost me about 20-40% more in repairs the first year I had them, and that didn't even include sails. Which leads me to "sails." I LOVE these "sails are OK, or crisp" statements by sellers. Yeah but how OLD are they? Most times they are original! My present boat sold to me, had 18 sails with it. the NEWEST sail, was 2006. It was used for 2 seasons and stored inside. It's probably got about 2-3 more seasons for racing in it... The rest of the sails? 2 original sails (main and 110 were in decent shape, with little use), every laminate sail and there were 5, were FOLDED, and stored, and the lamination blew through on the folds. I DID however, have probably 5 spinnakers with nearly each being in decent and usable shape. My point? PULL THE SAILS OUT!!! they are a HUGE expense (even cheap sails are pricey). Look for stretched (shrunk actually) boltrope on the main (means the sail has been overstretched/wet many times and then sat on a shelf a while to dry/shrink)... look for tears, pulled seams, batten pocket damage... these are all signs of "abused," sails. On a 22 foot boat, you are looking at about $700 for a cheap NEW mainsail. Probably same for a 125% genoa. Also outboards are a huge sticking point for me... boat without motor? Ugh... you'll want at least a simple motor (2 stroke with integral tank)... those will run you about $300-$400 used, and will need some work usually to keep running right. New? Forgetabout it, more like $900. So add up the headaches, put a dollar number, and number of hours on it, that will be required to get the boat/trailer/sails/motor, safe/functional, then you'll have a pretty good idea of what the boat really costs. Congratulations I just made you a small boat inspector.  

Thanks for the input,its really appreciated.I'm trying to avoid a mistake as I already am needing to sell a past boat buying mistake now.I'm wanting a swing keel due to my close proximity to Rehoboth bay,yet I may also want to trailer to Md ,so I may look into something a bit bigger also.I had a feeling the swing keels would be a maintenance headache.I am handy so I figure I can learn.One question I do have is how long does it take to rig them and unrig them ?That's a big drawback for me as far as a trailered boat goes,but for now its my only option.  

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• Sailboat Reviews

Seaward 26 RK

By no means just a stretch version of hake yachts' 25-footer, this new craft features a retractable keel and sensible pricing options..

When Nick Hake, a graduate of the Milwaukee School of Engineering, decided that he’d had enough midwestern winters, he moved to Florida. Despite his epicurean proclivities, he decided that he liked building boats more than being the head chef at an upscale restaurant in Coconut Grove.

“I always wanted to be self-employed,” he recalled.

Between 1974 and 1982, Hake built roughly 2,000 dinghies before introducing a 17-footer called the ‘Slipper,’ which ultimately became an 18-footer that was marketed as the Fox. With the introduction of a 22-footer in 1979, he formed Seaward Yachts, but now markets Seaward models under the Hake Yachts brand.

In 1984 he introduced a 24-footer that eventually became the Seaward 25 (see PS February 1, 2003), but in 1993 he sold the company to a group of Philadelphia-based investors. However, after two years, the romance of the boatbuilding business wore thin with the hobbyist owners, and they sold the business back to Hake. He now focuses solely on production of the newly designed Seaward 26RK, and the Eagle, a shallow-water 32-footer.

Though the company enjoys a reputation for building solid boats, it was during Hake’s hiatus that lax construction methods and poor quality control resulted in a number of poorly constructed boats leaving the factory.

Since Hake’s return, boat construction and quality control have returned to prior levels. In fact, the production floor is now adorned by a bulletin board—visible to both customers and employees—that itemizes the most recent “mistakes worth mentioning,” along with the appropriate corrective measures.

“We see it, and our customers see it,” Hake said.

Design Hake designs the boats his company manufactures. His latest, the Seaward 26RK, bears a striking resemblance to her 25-foot predecessor. The first impression when viewed abeam is that her profile is traditional, accented by a tall bow and upward-sloping cabintop highlighted by four ports, and downward sloping sheerline leading to a cockpit surrounded by a stainless steel stern rail housing two seats.

“We designed new molds for the boat, and took a new approach to pricing at the same time,” Hake said. Compared to the 25-footer, the new model has 18″ more waterline length, and a more user-friendly cockpit since “most of the additional space is aft of the wheel.” The additional waterline length also contributes to improved performance.

Of the modifications, Hake says that he also “wanted to increase the designed waterline for the purpose of increasing buoyancy in the stern when she’s loaded with several adults. The 25-footer tended to drag her stern a bit when overloaded, which affects performance, so we solved that problem.”

A roomy cockpit—even on a boat this size—is an important feature as that’s where the majority of time on board will be spent. Measuring 8′ 4″ long by 5′ 2″ wide, with seats that are 16″ wide, this cockpit will comfortably seat four, allowing the helmsman adequate space to steer and the crew sufficient room to trim sails.

The 26RK also has a transom gate that eases entry from the stern.

We were befuddled to learn that most purchasers opt for a boat equipped with a wheel (a $2,150 option), since she carries a light helm and the tiller can be moved out of the way when dockside.

Hake calls his hull shape a “spherical tumblehome,” defining that as “a concentric shape at the waterline from the bow to amidships with soft bilges.” When overpowered, a soft bilge produces tippyness, but Hake explained: “she’ll make way best when heeled 10 degrees, and owners begin shortening sail when the wind pipes up to around 15 or 17 knots. Though she has a plumb bow, she also has a rounded entry that prevents broaches by eliminating the tendency of the nose to bite into the sea and skid.

“We were primarily looking for a boat that would do the best job of sailing in the waters of the East coast, particularly Florida, where we have tons of quiet and unspoiled waters that are very shallow, but also to be able to cross the Gulf Stream to the Bahamas and do some island hopping…Performance-wise, we wanted a boat that would sail with a sport-boat feel but could be easily handled by one person and comfortable for a family. We kept the rig uncomplicated, the underbody clean, and went with vertically retracting foils to take care of performance, stability, and shallow water issues.”

Hake scored points on those criteria, having produced a sail area/displacement ratio of 18.4, and displacement/length ratio of 113.2, both of which are considered on the fast side. In comparison, the Catalina 250 (wing-keel version) displaces 4,200 lbs. with 200 fewer pounds of ballast, to produce a SA/D ratio of 16.29 and a D/L ratio of 195. On paper, the Seaward has the speed edge.

The 26RK displaces 3,800 lbs., only 200 lbs. more than her predecessor. Weight, Hake said, is distributed throughout the boat and that doesn’t affect performance or balance.

The retractable keel is a NACA-designed, high-aspect, 8′-long section with 26″ wings attached to a bulb. It draws 6′ when fully deployed and only 2′ (the depth of the bulb) when raised. Its thin shape—the chord is only 15.5″—and low center of gravity, are nearly identical to longer, fixed-keel boats, so it produces excellent tacking ability, as we learned during our test sail.

“We chose a torpedo bulb on the keel to keep displacement low without compromising stability, and produced a lower center of gravity and improved stability. We also felt the bulb was necessary to keep stability high when the boat was sailed in shallow-water situations with the keel only partially extended,” Hake explained. This is another good change since, in shallow water with a typical dagger elevated, wind and surf might produce an unpleasant ride.

Lowering and retracting the 1,200-lb. keel is a simple matter of pulling one of two lines located on the cabintop near the cockpit. The lines are attached to a switch on a Rule Industries 20SS electrical motor with a 2,000-lb. lift capacity, all housed in a fiberglass box just beneath the mast. Rule’s standard product is equipped with a spring that could allow the keel to fall freely, but Hake’s employees modify the motor to prevent such an occurrence. Should the motor fail, Hake has devised two back-up plans for retracting or lowering the keel, one involving the use of a cordless drill to turn the winch motor.

We initially thought this arrangement of pulling lines to control an electrical switch was an antiquated, potentially faulty approach. However, like much of Hake’s thinking, it represents the utmost in simplicity. It’s a lot like the old system of pulling a string to switch on a light. Sure, a dedicated switch mounted near the cockpit and wired to the motor would be more tidy and convenient, but it would also invite the possibility of a future wiring failure. Hake’s solution may seem crude, but it’s effective.

The 26RK’s rudder continues that trend of functional simplicity. The stern-hung appendage can be adjusted up and down within its sheath. The leading edge of the rudder is a combination of carbon fiber and fiberglass. At the head of the rudder is a pin that prevents it from lifting out of the sheath in a following sea.

A byproduct of these retracting foils and subsequent shallow draft is the ease with which this boat can be launched at shallow ramps.

Deck Layout Excepting the keel motor box, deck clutter is limited to two sheets, two blocks, and three winches, with all lines led aft. Stainless steel ports that were fixtures on older boats have been replaced by plastic ports, a $1,250 cost saving. The shrouds extend to the cabintop, producing tighter sheeting angles as well as easier movement forward and aft. Stainless-steel handrails set on the cabintop fore and aft of the shroud bases, and double lifelines contribute to the safety element.

The mainsheet is led from the end of the boom to an athwartships track at the base of the companionway, rather than on the cabintop. This produces good sheeting angles, but it’s a stretch for the helmsperson to reach with the traveler eased. The Andersen headsail winches—set midway along the cockpit coaming, are closer by. The halyards are led on the cabintop to Ronstan rope clutches that sit forward of an Andersen winch.

In the cockpit, the starboard locker is 28″ deep, 34″ wide, and more than 6′ long, adequate for storing miscellaneous gear and a spinnaker. And Hake allowed space for a 6-gallon fuel tank under the starboard cockpit seat; it is easily removable when the time comes to fill ‘er up.

The sail plan on the 26RK is supported by an uncomplicated, deck-stepped, fractional rig with single spreaders that is designed to be easily raised for sailing away. As Hake says, “We build our boats for mature owners who want to step aboard and go sailing without worrying about the technical stuff.” We didn’t step or unstep the spar during our test, but in our review of the Seaward 25, we did question that the backstay is attached to just one side of the transom. “The boat will sail well without a backstay, anyway,” Hake told us, adding that the mast is so stiff that bending it is not an option. Regarding the strength issue, he provided photos of a 26RK suspended aloft from a crane with lines attached to bow and stern pulpits.

Accommodations A fully equipped version of this 26-footer offers seating/dining space for four adults, a galley, and modest head, and berths for four that are more than 6 feet long. Headroom is approximately 5′ 10″ throughout the interior.

“Belowdecks, we wanted creature comforts for a couple, or a young family,” said Hake. “We try to use every inch of space and design the interior so everything can fit. Everything can be removed and the interior hosed out for cleaning.”

Hake frees space in the main cabin by hanging the dining table on the bulkhead. It’s not an original idea, however, having to work around the keel trunk, which sits center stage, was a challenge. He cleverly attached the forward end of the table to a stainless steel rod affixed to the bulkhead. The 34″-long table is lowered and then rotated amidships to create dining space on both sides of the cabin. It works well, and spans much of the 5′ space amidships between the settee backs.

Counter space in the galley is 48″ long if the sink cover and oven top are used as working surfaces; additionally, the ice box top doubles as a cutting board. Opposite the galley, the head compartment measures 32″ wide x 40″ long; not spacious, but appropriate for a boat this size.

Getting this boat fully equipped, however, comes at a price. Since the company is attempting to broaden its market to include first-time buyers and the less affluent, living spaces are offered a la carte. In lieu of a privacy curtain, a teak door and bulkhead that enclose the forward berth will add $1,000 to the base price; a privacy door on the head adds $200, and a portable marine head $375. Additionally, an Origo single-burner stove will increase the cost of the galley by $300, and the stainless steel ports are a $1,250 option.

This boat does suffer a paucity of bulk storage space (unless the aft quarterberth is used for that purpose).

Construction With minor exceptions, Hake’s construction methods remain unchanged since our review of the Seaward 25. The lamination schedule for the hull includes a vinylester gelcoat, 1.5-oz. chop-strand mat and isophthalic polyester resin applied with a chopper gun. “I know some people don’t like that, but it’s an effective way of assuring that there’s resin on both sides of the strands,” says Hake. “The second step introduces 40-oz. triaxial cloth. While we use Coremat in the flat runs of the hull to provide stiffness, most of the hull is solid glass.”

The interior pan is a solid fiberglass structural member that is vacuum-bonded to the deck. Extra laminations are added in potentially high-stress areas where the hull and keel trunk meet, and where the hull and deck meet.

The hull-to-deck joint—shaped like an inverted “J”—is chemically and mechanically fastened using stainless machine screws every six inches and a proprietary putty. “It doesn’t leak because of the accuracy of our tooling and the bonding materials,” Hake said.

The deck, which is cored with Divinycell foam, follows a similar schedule. Deck hardware is tapped into 1/8″ aluminum plates bedded into the fiberglass lamination, a strong method that is becoming more standard in the industry. Chainplates are mechanically and chemically fastened as well. A 3″-wide stainless steel strap penetrates the coachroof and is carried down to the hull, where it is attached to a stainless rod.

The fiberglass outer skin of the keel contains a core of resin and 1,000 lbs. of lead, which is poured in place.

Performance We sailed the 26RK in 10 to 15 knots of wind on the Chesapeake Bay. In the process, we also introduced a total neophyte to sailing and reaffirmed that, at its elemental level, sailing is relatively uncomplicated.

The cockpit proved to be large enough for four adults, with sail controls located so that the boat could be singlehanded if necessary. Though we found steering while seated on the stern-rail seats comfortable, it puts the helmsperson at too great a distance from the sail controls.

With approximately 10 knots of wind, and a full main and 110% headsail deployed, the boat easily sailed through the short chop on the bay, and pointed to within 40 degrees of the apparent wind. Our handheld GPS registered boat speeds between 4.5 and 5.5. knots over the ground. Easing sheets, the speed increased to the mid-6 range, and we registered a 7-knot run for several minutes.

When the wind increased to 14 knots, we tucked a reef in the main, which reduced heel and increased comfort while maintaining the same speed.

As advertised, one advantage of sailing a trailerable boat is the ability to maneuver in shoal waters. This became clear when we ran aground. Floating the boat was a simple matter of pulling a string in the cockpit, which raised the keel. When operating in shallow water, raising the rudder is also simple; you remove a pin, lift the foil to the proper depth, and replace the pin.

Finally, to confirm her maneuverability, we eased sheets completely, pulled the tiller hard over, and she spun on her keel, sailing in circles the diameter of her own length.

Our principal criticisms pertain to the size of the mainsail, and the headsail furling system. Light-air performance aboard the 26RK would improve with additional area in the mainsail, and that could easily be achieved if the tack were lowered or more roach area was added. Hake Yachts’ Sales Manager Dave Brady told us that most owners are content to sacrifice light-air performance for the ability to defer reefing when the wind really pipes up, but he also mentioned that custom sails remain an option.

The Schaefer headsail furler elevates the tack of the jib at least 12″ off the deck. That’s good for visibility from the helm, but it also sacrifices sail area, keeping the boat from reaching its full potential when going to weather. Hake attributes the use of that brand of furler to the fact that the unit is mounted on a levered tang that eases hoisting the mast. At this writing, he is considering the use of a CDI furler as an alternative. We’d also want to add a vang to get better mainsail shape off the wind.

The standard sails are manufactured by Super Sails, a Florida loft that Hake has used for 20 years. “They know our boats so well,” said Hake, “that the sails come out exactly to the specified dimensions.”

Pricing The base price of the boat is $29,950, including mainsail and 110-percent jib, standing and running rigging, bowsprit, and anchor roller. Surprisingly, this price is $5,000 less than the company charged for its 25-footer. Hake explained: “Price-wise, we wanted the boat to be competitive with the mix of entry level boats currently on the market, without compromising our hard-earned reputation for quality. To that end, we decided to offer the boat with a low (for us) base price so that a young family just starting out could have a Seaward now, and perhaps add some of the bells and whistles later, as their bank account grew.”

Interestingly, that approach differs from many manufacturers, who are adding to their bottom line by including many high-margin options in their base boats. A Seaward 26RK equipped with a Yanmar diesel ($7,500), rather than an outboard, galvanized tandem-axle steel trailer with surge brakes ($3,800), wheel steering, instruments, portable head, Origo stove, and a CDI furler, would list for almost $50,000.

We think Hake’s pricing strategy makes sense in this market since it allows the neophyte or budget-conscious sailor to manage the size of the expenditure, while affluent sailors can add all of the amenities they like. A small company like this, making just three models, does well to utilize that kind of flexibility.

Conclusions This is the second PS review of a Seaward sailboat; we think the 26RK is a much better buy than the earlier 25-foot model, especially since the company has managed to maintain essentially the same price for more boat.

This boat reflects a thoughtful approach to design that increases user comfort, though its sail plan may disappoint more performance-minded sailors. The additional space in the cockpit and waterline length are a plus, especially since they add only 200 lbs. to the displacement. And we think owners of the 26RK will be pleased at the boat’s ability to gunkhole in bodies of water where deeper draft vessels would be restricted.

Hake has succeeded in cramming reasonable creature comforts into a small area, so crew can sit comfortably when at anchor.

And he has come to grips with construction quality issues by publicly giving employees demerits for poor workmanship, and by using conventional construction methods to produce solid structures.

We also see the use of a la carte pricing as a plus. Since engine beds are part of the mold, a diesel could replace an outboard; and other retrofits could be accomplished just as easily. Plus, given the choice between spending more money on options or taking a credit for the sail inventory in order to buy a bigger mainsail, for example, offers additional flexibility for the prospective buyer.

True, the current glut of used 25- to 30-foot boats on the market provides buyers the opportunity to achieve the goal of boat ownership for significantly fewer dollars than Hake is charging for the 26RK. But considering the quality of this boat and its potential for high resale value, we’d recommend that buyers in the market for a trailerable cruiser seriously check it out.

Contact – Hake Yachts, 772-287-3200, www.seawardyachts.com .

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I really appreciate the no nonsense approach in your evaluation and testing of sailboats and gear. I’m planning to purchase a pocket cruiser in the near future (my last sailboat was a 1987 Pearson 27 – a fine boat!) and look forward to future reviews as I narrow down my choices.

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48° North Boat Test

From the May 2019 issue

In 2018, the British small boat specialists, RS Sailing, came to market with a new keelboat that has been generating a lot of excitement; and now it’s come to the Pacific Northwest. By the numbers, it might not seem particularly unique – it is one inch shy of 21’, displaces 1,433 lbs, draws 4’ 6”, and carries its 7’ 3” beam well aft. Yet, after sailing it, there is both a ton to like about the RS 21, and also a lot to distinguish it from its competitors.

The intent from RS Sailing was not to create the fastest 21’ sport boat in the world. In fact, much of the design intent is built around a different priority, and an RS rep told me they aren’t even calling this a sport boat. The RS 21 aims to be quick to plane and a blast to sail, while emphasizing simplicity in its systems, design, and sailing experience; all of which put it squarely in the conversation for the best available club racer and training platform. Sport boat enthusiasts might have noted that the displacement seems a tad on the heavy side for a sport boat of this size. This can be at least partly explained by the choice to endow the boat with 730 lbs of ballast. That better-than-50% ballast-to-displacement ratio clearly fits the design ethos.

The boat has a distinct and eye-catching appearance, sleek and low-slung, somewhat reminiscent of an RS Aero on steroids. I liked it from the jump. Its chamfered bow design and hard chines maximize waterline and denote modernity. Unlike nearly all of its competitors, it is an open-boat design; meaning there’s no cabin or doghouse of any kind. The boat actually is all cockpit. Forgoing what would be a tiny interior anyway means that there’s a much greater sense of space for the crew and more real estate for ergonomic rigging. There’s still a water-tight hatch in the bow that offers a surprisingly generous amount of storage for crew bags, lunch, and your beverage of choice.

The structure of the one design class is taking shape and will be inviting. The boat will be sailed with three or four, and there’s no legs out hiking allowed, making it comfortable compared to some sportier alternatives. There are restrictions on sail purchases, sail cloth usage, and professional sailor involvement, meaning an effort is being made to keep the cost of racing the boat fairly low.

I got to go sailing on the RS 21 on a puffy April day in Richmond, CA. Seeing no outboard on the transom, I assumed we would be sailing off the dock, but then Jake Sorosky, the sales rep for West Coast Sailing (the regional RS dealer) in Washington State stepped to the middle of the cockpit, released a line that was keeping the electric Torqueedo of the water, and asked me, “You want to drive us out?” This innovation is a clever solution to the auxiliary power problem on small sport boats; anyone who has ever done the contortions to stow an outboard down below will appreciate the set-it-and-forget-it ease.

We began sailing inside the harbor in flat water with wind affected by geography and some massive commercial traffic, and mystery puffs and lulls from seemingly every direction. Driving and trimming main, I had to stay on my toes but found it easy to keep the boat on its feet. After a while, I fought my instincts and started letting the big lifting puffs heel the boat without easing. We even tried powering-up in the puffs, inducing excess heel while close-hauled to see if we could lose the rudder. We couldn’t. This kind of sailing is neither comfortable nor fast, but such stability and drive-ability boggles the mind. One word that RS uses to describe the 21 is forgiving, and this is definitely accurate.

Sailing beyond the breakwater into 15-20+ knots of breeze against San Francisco Bay tide, I was aware of the boat’s relatively low freeboard. It tracked beautifully and stayed pleasant to drive, but digging a wave didn’t just slow the boat, it sent a bit of water through cockpit. Careful driving minimized this tendency. The boat seemed to like backstay and the jib, which has athwartships-adjusting leads, could be sheeted hard and still gave great shape and a well-proportioned slot.

Upwind or down, it’s a combination of hull form and foil shape, in addition to the ballast, that makes it eminently drivable. This puts the RS 21 in stark contrast to some of its closest competitors, boats that may be faster and more powered up, but that require much more nuance of tune and trim to drive easily.

You might think all of this stability and ease makes the boat feel slow. Hardly! It was just about as easy to get on a plane as any keelboat I’ve sailed, and declaratively easier than some. It never felt heavy to me, but rather stiff and stable. We weren’t using any instruments, but on an easy plane, I’d guess we were happily cruising along in the low double-digits, pushing into the low teens in the puffs.

Of all the features, the one that gets the double-edged-sword award, in my opinion, is the mid-cockpit pedestal that doubles as a housing for the Torqueedo and the bar for the mainsheet attachment point (there is no mainsheet traveler). The backstay adjustment is also here, as is the double-ended main sheet that may be trimmed from forward or aft of this pedestal.

It has numerous positive attributes. Sheeting the main from an aft and above-the-deck position means that the boom can be trimmed to nearly centerline. Keeping the lifting motor there retains the full range of tiller-motion at the transom and keeps the weight better centered. It’s an easy foot push for the crew seated nearby. And finally, the arch in the middle is an exciting asset as a hand-hold for sailors who struggle with balance or mobility. A recent J/70 world champion installed something somewhat similar to aid him in getting from one side of the boat to the other, and this pedestal could do the same for RS 21 sailors.

The potential downside of this element is that it really is in the middle of everything. On jibes, in particular, we had a couple issues in which the extra main sheet would get caught on parts of this pedestal. There will surely be a learning curve for someone regularly sailing the boat, and it’s far from an insurmountable challenge.

Considering these unique attributes, who is the RS 21 really for? It will be a great first boat for anyone entering sport boat sailing, whether they’re adults getting into it or kids coming out of high school or college racing. Because of its simple and user-friendly approach, I think it will be a popular choice among sail training programs and clubs that provide race boats for fleet or match racing. And, among the boats of similar design, I would call the RS 21 the easiest to day sail, either short handed or with an inexperienced crew. So with this in mind, a fair answer to the question above could genuinely be: everybody.

Joe Cline has been the Managing Editor of 48° North since 2014. From his career to his volunteer leadership in the marine industry, from racing sailboats large and small to his discovery of Pacific Northwest cruising —Joe is as sail-smitten as they come. Joe and his wife, Kaylin, welcomed a baby girl to their family in December 2021, and he is enjoying fatherhood while still finding time to sail, make music, and tip back a tasty IPA every now and again.

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RS21 – KEELBOAT RACING THE RS WAY

The RS21 One Design is a modern keelboat designed with corinthian racing at its heart – keelboat racing the RS way.  Finished and completed so you can enjoy close one design sailing without the complex choices. The powerful rig and distinct chines are balanced by well-mannered boat handling and an ergonomic deck layout to ensure everyone sailing has a key role to play and yet ease of use. For those passionate about our planet, the RS21 was developed with sustainability at the core of its design not only in terms of materials but also the carbon footprint of the supply chain, a reduction in single use plastics and efficient logistics. The RS21 International Class is going from strength to strength, with fleets growing over three continents and a national and international racing calendar that is escalating each year. Corinthian sailing, epicly close racing and a class built around removing the arms race, the RS21 is the future of keelboat racing and everything you’d expect from an RS racing class.

No. of Crew

Crew weight (kgs), no. of trapezes, max sail area (m²), find out more, ready to buy, find similar models, class recognition & accreditation.

WHAT THE SAILORS ARE SAYING…

It’s a very good boat. It planed in 11-12knots, very responsive to roll tacking, roll gybing. Very responsive to rig tune, sail tune and crew weight. It’s a good boat, good platform, a lot of fun!

Team TC , San Diego NOOD

I think they’ve hit their marks on everything that I could see, and after 10 races on the boat, none of us were beat up at all. I’d jump on one of these little beauties anytime.

Editor/ Publisher , Sailing Anarchy

Loved the boat and great to get back into some proper one design racing again. I found the RS pretty tweaky upwind: really rewarding accurate steering and trimming: just how I like it! The racing was super close: the last cross often deciding the difference between first and fifth place around the windward mark. And downwind was equally interesting, with plenty of angle options through the range of conditions. The last run, once the wind fully filled in, had us all grinning all the way to the finish!

Mark Rushall Sailing

While it’s a keel boat, it still handles an awful lot like a small dinghy. We were surfing it downwind.

Skipper , St. Petersberg NOOD

Overarching Design Goals

• Progressive design for simple and affordable club & syndicate ownership
• Balanced, quick and enjoyable sailing as a team
• Evenly matched, close racing prioritized over ultimate performance
• Robust and simple to maintain – efficient fleet operation
• Sustainable aspects designed and built in
• Eco-friendly construction using bio derived resins and recycled core materials
• Contemporary styling for appeal that reflects cool boats of the era
• Maximum waterline length
• Balanced rocker line for good performance across the wind range, at the expense of maximum speed at one end or the other
• Pronounced chines add form stability as the boat heels and shed water for a drier ride
• Lifting bulb keel – encapsulated in GRP skins
• Removable internal keel crane
• Composite transom hung rudder – removable
• Tiller extension
• Large open cockpit with comfortable space for four crew and more
• Open transom for rapid draining
• Layout and systems allow handling by two crew if required
• Minimal obstructions reduce bruises
• Large central port for stowage of sails etc within the boat, adding operating efficiency
• Centre mainsheet can be trimmed by helm or crew
• Kick bars give ergonomic and secure positions for all crew
• No-hiking rule aids racing enjoyment, communication and widens strategic input
• Deck designed to allow one hull to stack on another – for efficient event transport and improved sustainability aspects
• Carbon composite mast reduces weight aloft to improves handling
• Light weight and pivoting heel make the mast easy to raise by hand
• Durable aluminium alloy boom
• Carbon composite bowsprit
• Quick to rig – 20 minutes from trailer to launch ready
• Durable construction Club sails & larger Race sails options
• Mainsail with single slab reef system in club spec
• Trouble free hanked-on jib

Sail Handling Systems

• Large cockpit with comfortable space for 4 crew and more
• Simple layout with clearly understandable controls
• Large gennaker bag for efficient hoists / drops

Electric Propulsion System (optional)

• E-Propulsion motor system integrated into hull & deck design
• Sits almost invisibly behind the keel / under the mainsheet system
• Prop leg can be raised while sailing – bottom fairing plate closes the hull recess
• Central speed control unit & removable / rechargeable battery pack
• Symmetrical spinnaker and equipment (not required for one-design Class racing)
• Mast head wind indicator
• Shore cradle with wheels
• Road trailer
• Warps & Fenders pack
• Anchor pack – inc chain / warp / bag

SPECIFICATION

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• Sailboat Guide

RK 20 is a 20 ′ 0 ″ / 6.1 m monohull sailboat designed by Lyle C. Hess and built by Coastal Recreation Inc. between 1972 and 1981.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Similar to ENSENADA 20. Raised deck version of BALBOA 20. RK Industries was a subsidiary of Coastal Recreation.

Fixed keel version: Draft:3.25’ Disp.: 1970 lbs. Ballast: 320 lbs.

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Ensenada 20

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"More Tractor, Less Price"®

Build Your Own RK Tractor

Rk21 series models:.

The RK21H Sub-Compact series tractor packs plenty of power in a small package. Easy to operate and perfect for a wide range of property maintenance applications, plus all of those big projects that you’ve always wanted to complete, but never had the right equipment to help make it happen. With an RK21H subcompact tractor, your only limit is your imagination.

• Powerful Yanmar EPA Tier 4 certified 3-cylinder, liquid cooled 21HP diesel engine
• Easy to operate 2-range hydrostatic transmission and auto-throttle
• 4WD, differential lock and choice of R3 turf or R4 industrial tires
• Category I 3-pt. hitch
• Foldable rollover protection structure (ROPS)
• Hydrostatic power steering and easy- to-use operator controls
• Full range of performance-matched attachments and implements, including loaders, mid-mount mowers and a complete selection of 3-pt equipment
• Available 48" & 54" mid-mount mowers
• Industry-leading 8-year powertrain warranty

Loaded With Standard Features

Powerful Yanmar EPA Tier IV 21HP Diesel Engine

2-Range Hydrostatic Transmission

Category I 3-Pt. Hitch

Rear Work Light Standard, Choice of R3 Turf or R4 Industrial Tires

Rear & Mid-PTO, 12V Power, Cup Holder Standard

Suspension Seat With Armrests & Retractable Seat Belt Standard

Foot Controlled Auto-Throttle and Hand Throttle Standard

Optional L72 Loader Comes Standard With Quick-Attach

Optional 48" & 54" Mid-Mount Mower Decks

Optional 54" RL by Top Dog Granite Grapples

Optional 3rd Function Valve Kit

4WD, Differential Lock

RK21 Series Video

COMING SOON

RK19 SERIES

Download brochure.

• COMPETITIVE COMPARISON
• SPECIFICATIONS
• ATTACHMENTS
• 3-POINT EQUIPMENT

L72 Quick Attach Front-End Loader With 48" Bucket

48" Mid-Mount Mower

54" Mid-Mount Mower

L72 3rd Function Valve Kit (Installation Not Included)

G54 RK Granite Grapple

*Images are for representation only and may not reflect the exact model listed.

RK 48" XB KUTTER

RK 48" XB TILLER

RK 54" XBX TILLER

RK 60" XB DISC

RK 60" XB YARD RAKE

RK 60" XB REAR BLADE

RK 48" XB BOX BLADE

RK DUMP TRAILER W/PUMP

Turf Tires: Pro- Will not hurt your grass or create ruts in your yard. Cons- Not good for much else unless it is a perfectly dry day.

Tire & Wheel Assembly Set of Four Included in Tractor Price

An R4 tire is best in light industrial or highway department work applications. These tires offer excellent traction on harder surfaces such as construction lots and are less aggressive on turf than an R1 tire. An R4 tire is more aggressive than an R3 tire, however, it is less aggressive than an R1 tire. An R4 tread depth is about 70 percent as deep as an R1 tire.

Industrial Tires: Pros- middle of the road tire between turf and ag. Won’t destroy lawns. Won’t wear out as fast on hard surfaces, great for concrete barnyards or loading docks. Offers enough traction for off-road conditions. Cons- Simply is not an ag-tire. Simply is not a turf tire. In an ideal world, you would own one dedicated machine for manicured ground with turf tires, and one dedicated machine for ag-applications equipped with ag-tires. Barring the ability to do the aforementioned, industrial tread tires are a good option.

*See bottom of homepage for details.

Outdoors with the Morgans

RK 20 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of RK 20. Built by Coastal Recreation Inc. and designed by Lyle C. Hess, the boat was first built in 1972. It has a hull type of Swing Keel and LOA is 6.1. Its sail area/displacement ratio 19.52. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

RK 20 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about RK 20 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the rk 20.

RK 20 was designed by Lyle C. Hess.

Who builds RK 20?

RK 20 is built by Coastal Recreation Inc..

When was RK 20 first built?

RK 20 was first built in 1972.

How long is RK 20?

RK 20 is 5.33 m in length.

What is mast height on RK 20?

RK 20 has a mast height of 6.4 m.

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