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Getting the Most From Your Backstay

  • By Mike Ingham
  • Updated: September 15, 2015

headstay

While coaching, I’m often asked the best order of depowering. It is a good question because there are several options such as sheets, steering and controls, which all contribute to keeping the boat flat in a breeze. All of these tools should be used, but for just about any boat and condition, my suggestion is to start with the backstay. It’s a control that considerably reshapes both the headsail and mainsail at the same time. Since use of the backstay has almost no downside, it’s an excellent tool to depower the sails. Let’s explore why.

The discussion needs to start with how mast bend and forestay sag control the power of the main and jib, respectively. As a quick review, there’s inherent shape built into sails using what’s called “broad seam,” whereby the panels that make up the sections of the sail are designed and cut with curves on the connecting edges, or seams. There’s not much we can do to change it on the fly. The rest of the shape is built into the main and jib with luff curve and luff hollow, respectively. For the mainsail, luff curve is extra cloth added into the luff, in an arch from tack to head. When the mast is straightened, it pushes that material into the sail, adding depth. When the mast is bent, it pulls the extra cloth, and thus shape, out of the sail. The same is true with the jib, except cloth is cut out of the luff in an arch from tack to head to create luff hollow. When the forestay is sagged beyond that luff hollow, cloth — and shape — is pushed into the sail. When it’s tightened, cloth is pulled out of the jib luff, thereby flattening the sail.

The backstay takes advantage of luff hollow and luff curve simultaneously to depower the sails, much like an airplane lowers its wing flaps for high lift and retracts them when high lift is not required. With the backstay eased, the mast is relatively straight and the forestay is sagged for maximum power in both sails, like airplane flaps down. As the backstay is tensioned, the mast bends and the forestay tightens, depowering both sails — flaps up.

Because it’s not the only tool to depower the sails, it’s worth talking about the other significant controls and how they work in conjunction with the backstay. Steering is an important one. You can steer up a little into the wind, both because the apparent wind shifts aft in the puff, and because you get rid of power by pinching.

Easing the mainsheet certainly opens the leech, spilling power from the main. But easing the mainsheet also straightens the mast and sags the forestay, which is opposite of what the backstay does so well. It’s slight, but it does put power into both sails when you want the opposite. Depowering with the backstay is much more efficient. As an added advantage, when the backstay is tensioned, the mainsail leech opens up because the mast is bent, shortening the distance from head to clew.

Since the leech opens and closes with adjustments to the backstay, it’s well worth a glance up at the top of the main, and re-trim if necessary. I often find that the leech opens so much, I need to tension the mainsheet in order to get some leech tension back. Another important consideration here is when you ease the backstay in a lull, the leech will tighten so much that the main will need to be eased. Trimming in a puff and easing when needing power seems counterintuitive, but it’s worth keeping a constant eye on the leech to make sure you have the desired tension, especially with masts that have bendy upper sections.

At times, a puff might be too big or hitting too quickly and frequently to keep up with backstay. In these conditions I switch to playing the mainsheet because I can react more quickly. I will still use the backstay for trends and when things are less chaotic. In these unstable and quickly changing conditions, it’s most important to keep the boat at a constant heel angle, so it’s better to be able to keep it under control any way you can than to be searching for the ideal sail shape.

To augment the backstay, the flatter the sea state, the more mainsheet tension you can have while playing the traveler more aggressively. This technique helps keep the forestay tensioned and the mast bent, which is essentially assisting the backstay. I find this technique particularly effective with boats that have flexible masts. The choppier the water and the stiffer the mast, the less effective this is. With a stiff mast and choppy water, keeping the mainsheet eased opens the leech and twists the main open. This helps with aggressive steering and helps keep the bow down and the boat moving through the waves. Once in the correct range of backstay and mainsheet, the traveler is still the first move with the sheet and/or traveler fine-tuning depending on the boat and condition.

To use the backstay effectively, rig tune has to be set right. I try to set the rig so that in the lulls with my backstay off, the sails are fully powered. Thus, when the puffs hit, I can tension the backstay, keep the boat under control, and keep it at a constant heel. For most boats, it’s maybe a 4-knot wind range that the backstay will cover. If the puffs are beyond what the backstay can handle, I still set the rig for the lulls. If the puffs are too big for the backstay to handle, or if the wind builds beyond its range, as a last resort, I’ll switch to easing sheets and playing the traveler.

How do you know if you’ve overdone it with your backstay tension? Easy: If your overbend wrinkles become too extensive, you have too much. Overbend wrinkles are creases in the mainsail that start from the mast, usually just below the spreaders, and head toward the clew. If they extend all the way to the clew, for sure, the backstay is too tight. When wrinkles extend halfway to the clew, you’re at about maximum bend. If you’re at this point and still need to de-power, it’s time to ease the sheet and drop the traveler. If the backstay is tensioned most of the time and rarely eased all the way in the lulls, then your next move is to go tighter on the rig.

You’ll know you have it right when you can set up your rig and sails such that, in the lulls, the backstay is eased and you can comfortably depower using mostly backstay. You’ll still have to change point and play the sheets or traveler, but they should be mostly fine-tune adjustments. The bulk of the power control is with backstay. Your helm and heel should remain constant as you tension it in the puffs and ease it in the lulls.

Consider the comparisons between the images of a mainsail and jib with and without backstay tension below:

headtay

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The Integral Backstay Adjuster

Hydraulic Backstay Adjuster

Integral backstay adjusters can play a big role in how a boat sails. Being able to adjust the backstay tension from the pump of a handle can be useful on cruisers just as much as racers. We all need to make general changes to the boats trim depending on wind and wave conditions in order to keep control of the boat.

Please note:  in the case of the offshore cruiser or racer, one should have a fail-safe device rigged by a professional for any hydraulic backstay tensioning device.

Selden hydraulic tensioner. Selden backstay adjuster. Selden integral adjuster

Selden ‘s new line of HIT hydraulic adjusters, seem to have taken a up the hole left behind in the market from  Holmatro , makers of the Jaws of Life. This is all unconfirmed, but it is a strong theory of mine (so it could be fake news), that Holmatro sailboat hydraulics department is now being produced and re-branded by Selden. This sleek new hydraulic line up comes in two different colors, classic black or a silver metallic. One of the design flaws that I’ve notice on earlier model adjusters (regardless of manufacturer) is that you have to crawl on the deck to try and read the gauge; causing most of us leisure sailors (myself included) to not even look at the darned ‘thing’. This is bad practice, considering the power of hydraulics. The feature that really sets Selden apart from the rest, is the automatic two-speed function of the ram. The automatic two-speed function allows you to achieve adequate backstay tension with fewer pumps of the lever than some of the older/ other manufacturers.  Once the hydraulic cylinder detects a specified amount of pressure, the unit kicks into “second gear” and fine-tuning is achievable with some additional pumps of the lever.

Although beautifully constructed of high quality materials, this unit comes at a fairly high price starting about $800 more than the competitors. In my opinion, just to have the gauge in a more visible location is well worth the price alone (not to mention the two speed pump). Read here for more information.

Navtec integral backstay adjuster

When it comes to the most popular name in sailboat hydraulics,  Navtec  units have always had an incredible reputation. Up until recently (see link below) Navtec’s integral units seem to have been the most popular on wide array of boat designs. Although many hydraulic service and repair parts are still readily available, Navtec had to recently announce its liquidation .

Harken Integral Adjuster

The newest of them all is  Harken’s New Hydraulic Lineup . This is such a new product there is no real r&d which I can see as a concern to some, but rest assured this is a company known to its dedication to quality (just ask Americas Cup Teams ). Once again Harken known for innovation, boasts a gauge that is mounted on top (much like the Holmatro) AND can also adjust to 4 different positions allowing it to be seen from almost any angle, THANK YOU HARKEN ! Instead of the two speed function which Holmatro adds as a luxury, Harken has created a pump that is 1:1 actuating. Meaning that oil is delivered as the handle goes in and out, instead of the competitors’ design which only delivers oil when the handle is being pulled away from the cylinder. This may also be a work around for One Design rules (all of you J105 racers out there!), disallowing two speed pumps………at least until they catch on ;-0)

“Price wise, Navtec, Sailtec, and Harken integral adjusters are all comparable.”

NEW model Sailtec adjuster

Lastly, we have  Sailtec ‘s line of integral adjusters. Sailtec is also a reputable company on a  smaller scale. This company (like Navtec) has also been around for many, many years, proving their quality and dependability. What I like about Sailtec is that they have left their design relatively unchanged over the years which makes service parts readily available!

Service intervals:  all of these units need to be serviced at some point. The service intervals, like anything else, will mostly be determined by geographical location as well as wear. Navtec units are the most affordable to service followed by Sailtec which require slightly more parts and time. Selden and Harken units are still too new to really know anything about service intervals and cost, so we’ll just have to hold out and see.

All in all, all of these products truly do an outstanding job at what they are supposed to do, tension a stay hydraulically. Not to mention these are all reputable companies that will stand behind their product 100% (within reason). That being said the decision will come down to personal preference, look, functionality, and service life. As well as of course, purchase price.

Click the links to the various manufacturers, take a look for yourself. If you need help deciding you can always give us a shout , we’d love to hear from you.

As always thanks for the read and if you have a question for us or would like us to take a look at your rigging hydraulics, leave us a comment down below……….

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I have a harken backstay adjuster When tensioned bothers the port and starboard rigging are hand tight When the valve is fully released the tension on the pump side is hand lose but the other side is still very tensioned Is this normal? I have a Blue Jacket 40

Can you email picture of what you have to [email protected] . This way I can see what set up you have and will be able to answer your question better.

Thanks, ~T.R.C.

I’m in need of a new adjuster for my J/42. The original SAILTEC one leaks despite two rebuilds by SAILTEC. Does it make sense economically to buy a new unit from you? I do not need help with the install.

I think you were in touch with Brad already on this. Please let us know if you need anything else.

Thank you for all this information! I’m looking for a replacement to the ridiculous back stay adjuster in our First 35s5. The French have some great qualities but engineering is clearly not among them. :-)

Lol. Hi and thanks for the read. We can provide backstay adjuster from any manufacturer. We will also help you install it properly.

Depending on what you have now we may even be able to help you get your existing on working better.

Feel free to email us or inquire further when it suits you.

Helpful information. Fortunate me I found your web site unintentionally, and I am surprised why this twist of fate did not came about in advance! I bookmarked it.

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James Suggitt

back stay yacht

David Flynn

The backstay is a powerful tool and you should introduce it to your toolbox for more than just keeping the rig in the boat. No matter what the rig type or stiffness the tensioning the backstay keeps the headstay from sagging. Headstay sag equals extra power in the headsail, so when you don’t want the power (heeling too much) use the backstay. On boats with rigs that bend, the backstay helps depower the mainsail. When you add backstay tension on this type of rig you are essentially compressing a straw. The mast bends forward at the middle pulling the luff away from the leech thereby flattening the sail. It is a hugely powerful tool which allows you take your mainsail from full and powerful in light air to flat and open in the leech for windier conditions. As the breeze builds and you start to generate too much heel and helm use your backstay!

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When to adjust the backstay and what it achieves

27 October 2020

Many of us will be aware that to trim our sailboat we have various options open to us. This includes sheets, halyard tension, car position , vang or kicker  and traveller position. In addition, we can change a sail’s shape and efficiency by adjusting leech tension and create or reduce draft by adjusting the outhaul . 

In addition to trimming sails using these control lines, racing boats in particular and smaller keelboats with limited capacity to reef will also rely on the backstay and cunningham in order to change the shape of the sail and power and depower the rig.

The backstay on many yachts is only adjustable by an experienced rigger and requires a deep knowledge of the subject. However, other vessels will have an adjustable backstay meant to be adjusted to suit conditions and point of sail. The adjustment might be by way of a simple pulley system, much like the main sheet mechanism. Other backstays may be hydraulic and they are operated by a pump and release valve. Larger cruising vessels might have an electrically powered backstay.

Adjusting the backstay will either increase the bend of the mast (backstay tension on) or decrease bend of the mast (backstay eased). It’s usual to ease backstay downwind and put on backstay tension when going upwind. 

If one over tensions the backstay, it can have a significant effect on the boat, depowering the mainsail. This may well negate the need for a reef. Over-tensioning an adjustable backstay and/or easing or dumping the vang will significantly depower the boat.

Downwind, you would usually keep the vang under tension and ease the backstay although it’s important to realise that the primary purpose of the backstay is to brace the mast and stop it falling forward or breaking!

Fractionally rigged yachts (where the spreaders are spread back and the forestay does not go to the top of the mast) will usually have additional bracing in the form of a running backstay. These are used to help brace the mast below the masthead, where the forestay meets the mast or where an inner forestay might be used. Again, adjustment of the running backstay can alter mast bend and have an effect on boat speed.

Remember, when adjusting rig tension it’s important to release tension gradually so as not to create large ‘shock forces’ which will, over time, induce significant wear and tear to the rig.

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Running Backstays

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Backstay Adjuster Systems

Backstay adjusters allow racers and cruisers to adjust and control mast rake and headstay tension. Adjusting the backstay shapes the main to optimize upwind and downwind performance. On racer/cruisers, tightening the backstay increases headstay tension for upwind sailing, while loosening the backstay offwind reduces weather helm. When selecting blocks or systems for backstays, make certain blocks match or exceed the wire or line breaking strength. Typical Boat Length: Small Boat: 22' - 28' (6.7 - 8.5 m) Midrange: 29' - 34' (8.8 - 10.4 m) Big Boat: 35' - 42' (10.7 - 12.8 m)

6:1 Right Angle

This simple 6:1 system is used on small cruising boats with a single line or wire backstay.

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12:1 Cascaded

This cascading 2:1/6:1 system provides a 12:1 purchase and is used on small racer/cruisers and daysailers.

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4:1 Split Backstay

This 4:1 system is used on small keelboats with split backstay systems. Pinching the wires together tightens the backstay and increases headstay tension to flatten the genoa, decrease weather helm, and stabilize the rig in heavy air.

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8:1 Split Backstay

A more powerful version of the split backstay adjuster uses a doubling wire running through a wire block for a purchase of 8:1.

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6:1 Double-ended Split

This double-ended split backstay system leads lines forward to cam cleats mounted just ahead of the helmsman so adjustments can be made from either side of the boat.

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Double-Acting Hydraulic Backstay Adjuster

These powerful systems deliver oil when the handle is pushed and pulled, delivering oil twice as fast as single-acting pumps—an excellent choice for racer/cruisers.

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The Waltz Rates a Best Buy Among Gimbaled Backstay Radar Mounts

But if you want the best, and can afford it, the questus is easily the most sophisticated. a newcomer, radar on the level, greatly simplifies the damping process, but it seems overpriced..

The September double issue contained the first of three articles on radar antenna mounting choices. That first report was on mast mounts. This one is about what may be the fast-becoming-popular gimbaled backstay mounts.

In conjunction with this radar mount project, we made a small survey of Practical Sailors neighbors at East Passage Yachting Center and Ted Hoods Little Harbor in Portsmouth, Rhode Island.

An even 100 survey sheets were placed on sailboats that had radar. There were 39 replies. The number is not large, but it probably is a fair indicator of the way in which most boat owners handle the placement of the radar antenna.

Of the 39 who replied, 22 have mast mounts. Eight carry the antenna on a pole. Only six are on backstays. (There also were one mizzen mount, one arch and one custom frame.)

Mast mounts currently are the overwhelming choice. However, when specifically asked, Do you wish you had chosen a different location or kind of mount or that it was gimbaled? five of the 22 with fixed mast mounts (and one with a pole mount) said they wish they had gimbaled mounts.

So, instead of a mast-pole-backstay ratio of 22-8-6 bias, the score (counting the wish I had votes) would have been 17-7-12.

Its not just that mast-mounted radar antennas can be damaged by the flailing leech of a jib and that, even with a guard (off-the-shelf or custom made), the sail will develop a frayed edge.

The real allure of a gimbaled mount stems from a radar antennas vertical beam width of 25, which means that if the boat is heeled more than about 15, signal loss sets in. How bad is the loss? As part of this series, well be testing that, too.

In our survey, about a half dozen of the 39 who replied said they did not care about gimbaling because the boat is almost always under power and level when the radar is used-such as when motoring into harbors, in fog or at night. The value of gimbaling seems to depend somewhat on whether the radar is used when sailing, especially as a collision avoidance instrument.

The hooker in gimbaling is how to prevent the device and the antenna from swinging freely. A sailboat is an engineering laboratory devoted to controlling movement. Anything loose is dangerous. Another detail that must not be overlooked is the loop in the electrical cable, to prevent breaking the cables extremely fine wires through continual flexing. (See a discussion in the June issue on the proper routing and size of the loop required.)

There are on the market but three kinds of gimbaled antenna mounts. The three represent extraordinarily interesting entrepreneurial pursuit. At the heart of these mounts are devices that severely dampen movement as the boat heels. Two are hydraulic; the third uses mechanical friction. An interesting question, we thought, was whether the dampeners would handle rolling. Some boats, particularly modern fin keelers, have rapid rolling motions.

The Questus The gimbaled backstay mount was developed in 1989 by a Marblehead, Massachusetts, sailor who, as is often the case, wanted something better than a fixed mast or pole mount on his 1974 Tartan 41.

Allen DeFatnick has the means to do it right. He owns a successful company that makes surgical instruments and equipment, including implants. A 54-year-old engineer educated at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, he knows and has high regard for precision work.

His Questus antenna mount, a very technical and finely made piece of equipment, hit the market in 1990. Since then, 3,000 have been sold through Pompanette, Inc., which owns Bomar, Hood Yacht Systems and several other marine companies.

The Questus is made to high standards, the quality is tightly controlled and, in DeFatnicks words, The engineering is probably overkill.

The torque loads are transmitted through the hydraulic unit, down the pole to the deck. The cast base plate has a hole to carry the electrical cable through the deck. The hydraulic cylinder even has a thermal expansion chamber to compensate for temperature changes…for use in the tropics.

The object, said DeFatnick, is to assure that the antenna platform always stays level. It may be slow in reacting to a fast roll, but there is no oscillation. And I expect it to work virtually forever, without fail.

The Questus comes in two models with mounting options and adjustments to fit any imaginable installation (including a mast or pole). Assembly, using the extensive installation manual, requires some meticulousness. For the record, the backstay options are: radome forward, pole forward of the stay; radome forward, pole aft of the stay; radome aft, pole forward; radome aft, pole aft; radome foreword, stay inside support tube; and radome aft, stay inside the tube.

Questus is the only maker with models that enclose the backstay, which requires some special lower-end tubing if you have a hydraulic backstay adjuster. It also is the heaviest of the three. The two-arm model (a version of which, with other attachments, is shown on the cover of this issue) weighs 18.2 pounds. The two sizes sell for $990 and $1,475, but are discounted by Defender for $800 and $1,275.

The Waltz RLS Seeing the success of the Questus, a 44-year-old Oregon engineer who specializes in cost-conscious simplicity, brought out in 1993 a gimbaled mount called a Waltz RLS (radar leveling system).

Keep it simple, said Tom Betts of Performance Marine Technologies, Inc. If you do, itll be easier, cheaper and last longer.

Much simpler and less expensive than the Questus, the Waltz (named for Betts friend, Dr. Roger Waltz, who first drew the plans) uses a smaller stainless support tube and a small non-adjustable top end that enables Betts to boast of the Waltzs light weight. Betts said about 800 to a 1,000 have been sold.

Where the Questus gets its universality (to fit over or parallel to any backstay in any fore-or-aft position) from a large and somewhat complicated top unit that has a number of Allen head machine screws, the Waltz has a new head-a simple welded stainless unit with big grooved nylon washers to grab the backstay and a leveling device that is a simple block of high-grade aluminum machined to accommodate the hydraulic innards.

Adjustments to bring the antenna parallel with the waterline must be done with washers.

The base plate for the pole is three pieces of stainless and a clevis pin. The base has no hole for the electrical cable.

Early Waltz mounts used an off-the-shelf hydraulic dampener, but Betz now makes the unit himself. Compensation for heavy radomes or temperature extremes involves dismantling the unit to fill with lighter or heavier oil. Its an easy job and, if the seals wear, they are standard automotive stock.

The Waltz also avoids some price and manufacturing complications by not offering a model that fits over the backstay. The Waltz can be mounted in any of the usual four positions. Level tuning fore-and-aft requires spacers or washers on the radome platform. Almost as heavy as the Questus, the two-arm model weighs 17.6 pounds.

The two Waltz models, for 18″ and 24″ radomes, list for $727 and $883, but discount to $549 and $699.

The Radar On The Level Most recently, Michael W. Donoian, who owns Marine Services and Salvage, Inc., in Bellingham, Washington, also thought it odd that antenna mounts were getting to cost about as much or more than the radar itself.

His gimbaled backstay mount is called a Radar On The Level. He went into production last February with a split backstay model that requires no pole and another, for a single backstay, that uses a pole to support the weight and transfer the torque to the deck.

Donoian took an entirely different cut at the problem of controlling the swinging movement. To avoid the expensive hydraulic dampener, he suspends the R.O.T.L. on a 1/2″ stainless bolt equipped with two 1-7/8″ x 3/16″ Delrin washers, a Delrin sleeve and four stainless washers the same size as the washers. By tightening a nylon-lined nut, the sleeve (which actually fattens under the load) and nylon washers compress to provide controllable friction. As it wears, the nut is tightened further.

Donoian says he has had the prototype on his boat for more than a year and it still works perfectly-no wear, no adjustment needed. There is no stop on the movement, other than a piece of shock cord.

Attachment to a split backstay is very straightforward, with a triangular plate that substitutes for the plate that comes on split backstays.

For a single backstay, Donoian uses two grooved nylon sheaves mounted in the otherwise all-stainless head to secure the mount to the backstay. The R.O.T.L. is mounted on an aluminum pole greater in diameter than either the Questus or the Waltz. The pole model is admirably lightweight at 11.25 pounds.

The split backstay model sells for $500. The single backstay version is $1,100.

The Test Except for the split backstay R.O.T.L. model, all of these mounts require room on deck, adjacent to the backstays chainplate, for a fitting where the bottom of the support tube is firmly secured with a backing plate. When the boat heels, considerable twisting force is exerted at that point. The pole is, in effect, a torsion bar. A custom fitting often is required if the deck is cluttered or the boat has a reverse transom.

We attempted, with a big geometric jig, to test the gimbaling characteristics of these three units. However, we did not get significantly different results. The only thing proved by our measurements was that one model was quicker to level, which means nothing. All three kept the radome platform, to which was attached a 10-pound weight, perfectly level.

When swung repeatedly through 60, as though the boat had gone from a 30 heel on one tack to a 30 tack on the other, the Questus and R.O.T.L. remained level and accomplished the swing in 1.5 seconds. The Waltz also remained level and completed the swing in 1 second. All three came to abrupt stops at the end of the swing, which means there was no backlash or oscillation.

How about our question about a boat under power being rolled quickly by chop? Because no boat has a roll moment anywhere near a second and a half, these mounts obviously would have no trouble keeping up with the movement.

The Bottom Line If youre looking for the tried and true, proven performer, the choice would be the Questus…except that for many buyers its price is a choker. (The numbers are very small, but in our mini-survey, of the six boats equipped with gimbaled backstay mounts, five had Questus and one had a Waltz.)

Only time will tell whether the new R.O.T.L. friction-operated mount wears at a slow enough rate to make it practical. Considering that no expensive hydraulic dampener is involved, the price for the pole version is not as low as might be hoped for. We expected it would sell for less than the Waltz, but that is not the case. However, its light (11.25 pounds) and is very attractive. But if it wears too much or too fast, it would be annoying.

Its not nearly as jewel-like as the Questus, but the lightweight, soundly engineered Waltz, with a hydraulic dampener its maker says is as foolproof as that used in the Questus, wins hands-down as the Best Buy.

Contacts- Questus, Hood Yacht Systems (Pompanette, Inc.), Box W, Charlestown, NH 03603; 603/826-4125. Radar On The Level, Marine Services and Salvage, Inc., Box 791, Bellingham, WA 98227; 360/671-6381. Waltz, Performance Marine Specialties, Inc., 21785 SW TV Hwy., Beaverton, Oregon 97006; 503/642-5200.

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Cruising the Moskva River: A short guide to boat trips in Russia’s capital

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There’s hardly a better way to absorb Moscow’s atmosphere than on a ship sailing up and down the Moskva River. While complicated ticketing, loud music and chilling winds might dampen the anticipated fun, this checklist will help you to enjoy the scenic views and not fall into common tourist traps.

How to find the right boat?

There are plenty of boats and selecting the right one might be challenging. The size of the boat should be your main criteria.

Plenty of small boats cruise the Moskva River, and the most vivid one is this yellow Lay’s-branded boat. Everyone who has ever visited Moscow probably has seen it.

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This option might leave a passenger disembarking partially deaf as the merciless Russian pop music blasts onboard. A free spirit, however, will find partying on such a vessel to be an unforgettable and authentic experience that’s almost a metaphor for life in modern Russia: too loud, and sometimes too welcoming. Tickets start at $13 (800 rubles) per person.

Bigger boats offer smoother sailing and tend to attract foreign visitors because of their distinct Soviet aura. Indeed, many of the older vessels must have seen better days. They are still afloat, however, and getting aboard is a unique ‘cultural’ experience. Sometimes the crew might offer lunch or dinner to passengers, but this option must be purchased with the ticket. Here is one such  option  offering dinner for $24 (1,490 rubles).

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If you want to travel in style, consider Flotilla Radisson. These large, modern vessels are quite posh, with a cozy restaurant and an attentive crew at your service. Even though the selection of wines and food is modest, these vessels are still much better than other boats.

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Surprisingly, the luxurious boats are priced rather modestly, and a single ticket goes for $17-$32 (1,100-2,000 rubles); also expect a reasonable restaurant bill on top.

How to buy tickets?

Women holding photos of ships promise huge discounts to “the young and beautiful,” and give personal invitations for river tours. They sound and look nice, but there’s a small catch: their ticket prices are usually more than those purchased online.

“We bought tickets from street hawkers for 900 rubles each, only to later discover that the other passengers bought their tickets twice as cheap!”  wrote  (in Russian) a disappointed Rostislav on a travel company website.

Nevertheless, buying from street hawkers has one considerable advantage: they personally escort you to the vessel so that you don’t waste time looking for the boat on your own.

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Prices start at $13 (800 rubles) for one ride, and for an additional $6.5 (400 rubles) you can purchase an unlimited number of tours on the same boat on any given day.

Flotilla Radisson has official ticket offices at Gorky Park and Hotel Ukraine, but they’re often sold out.

Buying online is an option that might save some cash. Websites such as  this   offer considerable discounts for tickets sold online. On a busy Friday night an online purchase might be the only chance to get a ticket on a Flotilla Radisson boat.

This  website  (in Russian) offers multiple options for short river cruises in and around the city center, including offbeat options such as ‘disco cruises’ and ‘children cruises.’ This other  website  sells tickets online, but doesn’t have an English version. The interface is intuitive, however.

Buying tickets online has its bad points, however. The most common is confusing which pier you should go to and missing your river tour.

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“I once bought tickets online to save with the discount that the website offered,” said Igor Shvarkin from Moscow. “The pier was initially marked as ‘Park Kultury,’ but when I arrived it wasn’t easy to find my boat because there were too many there. My guests had to walk a considerable distance before I finally found the vessel that accepted my tickets purchased online,” said the man.

There are two main boarding piers in the city center:  Hotel Ukraine  and  Park Kultury . Always take note of your particular berth when buying tickets online.

Where to sit onboard?

Even on a warm day, the headwind might be chilly for passengers on deck. Make sure you have warm clothes, or that the crew has blankets ready upon request.

The glass-encased hold makes the tour much more comfortable, but not at the expense of having an enjoyable experience.

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Getting off the boat requires preparation as well. Ideally, you should be able to disembark on any pier along the way. In reality, passengers never know where the boat’s captain will make the next stop. Street hawkers often tell passengers in advance where they’ll be able to disembark. If you buy tickets online then you’ll have to research it yourself.

There’s a chance that the captain won’t make any stops at all and will take you back to where the tour began, which is the case with Flotilla Radisson. The safest option is to automatically expect that you’ll return to the pier where you started.

If using any of Russia Beyond's content, partly or in full, always provide an active hyperlink to the original material.

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