sailboat cat rig

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What’s in a Rig? Cat Rig

By: Pat Reynolds Sailboat Rigs , Sailboats

What’s in a Rig Series # 7 – The Cat Rig

Typically speaking, a cat rig is a single mast situated well forward, near the bow, which carries a large single sail and has no standing rigging, sometimes referred to as “unstayed.” An Optimist, Laser or Sabot are common (smaller) examples of a cat rig, but many bigger boats utilize the set-up.

As we’ve established in other What’s in a Rig articles, rig choice is always subjective. Most folks go for the popular Marconi (or Bermuda) sloop rig, but others like to be a bit different and work with less standard arrangements. The thinking behind choosing a cat rig as apposed to a yawl for instance, is probably rooted in more practicality than romance. Take it east yawl sailors, we know we know, they are more stable, and have advantages for long range cruising. Maybe, but we also know you like the way they look! Cat rigs, on the other hand, are truly simple to sail and manage. With one large sail and no rigging, a cat rig is up and running in moments and they can be single-handed quite easily. There is also considerable savings not having to maintain, tune or replace expensive rigs. And yet another benefit of the cat rig design on bigger boats is the amount of salon space they deliver. With a mast placed so far forward, the cabins are often very roomy.

So what’s the downside? Well, you’ve heard this tune before: upwind performance. There’s a reason why the common sloop rig is so incredibly popular. Some may say it’s because racing has such a powerful influence on the market, but the truth probably more accurately revolves around the fact that sloops are simple to sail and just go upwind so very well. There are modern cat rig designs like Wylie boats that have innovations (the wishbone boom) that address the upwind limitation, but most classic cat rigs suffer in the upwind department. However they do not suffer if fast efficient tacking and comfortable downwind running is your bag. Tacking a cat boat is basically one quick turn through the wind and it all pretty much happens for you.

Cat rigs are simple, maneuverable, efficient and economical. They’re especially suited for short-handed sailing and downwind passages. And a catboat sailor is probably someone who doesn’t mind traveling on a less trodden path. If you plan on a long downwind journey alone or with one other, take a look at some catboats – might just fit the bill.

What's in a Rig Series:

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Why a Cat Ketch?

Posted by Graham Byrnes on Jan 1st 2015

You may have noticed that B&B Yacht Designs has several models that are cat-ketch rigged. For example the Core Sound 15 pictured below sailing at our annual messabout.

Perhaps you are not familiar with this rig, and think that it looks “old-timey.”

And, perhaps you think that this rig is not as “efficient” as a “modern” sloop rig.

First let us dispel some common myths about the cat ketch rig.

The rig type is, indeed, one that has been around for many years, and one which was greatly favored by the watermen of the East Coast before the age of power. The rig fell out of favor not because it was inefficient, but because working sailboats became obsolete, and the recreational sailboats which have been built since, are influenced not by the need for efficiency and speed, but by an artificial rating rule. Such rules, made to “equalize” boats on a race course, often penalized the very things which made a boat fast. So designers’ of “modern” boats designed boats that could get the greatest benefit from the lowest rating – and not necessarily the best and fastest boat they could have designed. When ratings were not an issue, the cat ketch has been a rig favored for it’s gentle ways. Several designers in recent decades have utilized this rig to great advantage on some contemporary, even avant-garde designs. In head to head competition, cat ketches have performed well. Our boats have an admirable racing record, although they were never designed as racers.

What are the unique advantages of the cat ketch rig and why have we chosen it for some of our designs?

Before going on, let us say: We are not missionaries for this rig. It is not a trademark of our designs in that it in no way represents the rig on the majority of our plans. It is however, a rig, which we have found to be extremely suitable for certain types of boats. So, it fits with our philosophy of making each design work as well as it can for it’s type, while retaining a cost effective approach without compromising quality or performance.

The well-designed cat ketch rig is a simple, inexpensive and balanced rig.

The sail plan spreads the sails along the length of the boat on two masts. The low center of effort afforded by the fore and aft, rather than upward, spread of sail, produces less heeling force.

Free standing masts require no rigging; making them quick to rig and unrig, easy to reef and inexpensive. They also offer an innate degree of safety: the masts bend during gusts, flattening the sail and de-powering the rig.

Each spar is lighter, smaller and easier to handle. This is really important with beach boats, day boats and other dry-sailed craft. It only takes a few minutes to rig. In our designs, up to about 20′, stepping the masts can be accomplished by one person. Being able to get in and out of the water quickly and easily makes sailing so much more accessible. If you have to contemplate an hour of preparation just to go sailing; it isn’t likely that you will go sailing for an hour! In today’s busy world you may have only a few days when you are free to take the whole day for sailing. On the other hand, we all have the odd hour or two of free time, and when the boat can be launched and retrieved in minutes, you can spend that hour sailing. Our larger or cabin boats utilize hinging masts in tabernacles that can also be setup quickly with one person

Docile. That is probably the best word for the behavior of this rig. Your days of yelling, “prepare to tack”, “tacking” – “let it go”, and “pull it in” are over. When you want to tack, you simply put the helm over and off you go on your new course. The sails will tack themselves. This may be a little un-nerving at first. If you have been sailing only sloops or ketches with headsails up until now, you will feel like you ought to be doing something. We’ve noticed however, that it takes the average sailor only about 3 tacks to get used to this laid back approach. By the 5th tack they are enamored and begin to aimlessly tack back and forth with a great big grin on their faces. The crew is equally happy, because they haven’t moved a muscle or been yelled at during the whole procedure. As delirious as the tack may make the laid back crew, they will really get excited by the jibe. Jibing has traditionally been a recipe for disaster, with such fanciful names as the Chinese jibe, invented to describe just one of the multiple possibilities for complications. In the cat ketch rig, jibing requires exactly the same degree of panic as the tack we just discussed…you just put the helm over, pull in some excess sheet if you wish and let her slide out the other side.

Upwind. The cat ketch rig is handy and comfortably close-winded. Provided you have a good hull under you (never blame a good rig for a poor hull design), she will go to weather nicely.

Reaching & Running: Since the sprit bisects the sail load, the area above and below the sprit are balanced. So when the sheets are eased, the sails go out and stay out with none of the collapsing and filling that is the bane of the normal jib behind main. Nor is there the twisting off of the typical mainsail, when the boom lifts and causes a “death roll” in strong winds. Somewhere between a very broad reach and a run, the main sail will begin to shake and lose power. This is not a problem, just turn off the wind a bit further, jibe the main across and return to your desired course.

As you have already learned, jibing, the bane of most downwind sail-handlers is a snap. With a cat ketch rig you can also sail directly down wind, wing and wing. The boat feels stable and whisks along nicely. If the wind gets up and things get hairy, on an unstayed rig (which includes most smaller cat ketches) you can just let those sails go forward of the beam. This will immediately stabilize the boat. Also, the sails when they are allowed to go forward (about 20° ), will keep the boat tracking downwind, so it makes a very easy time of what would be the most delicate conditions for a sloop or cat rigged boat.

Taken to it’s extreme, you can make delicate and gentle downwind landings in any weather by just letting the sheets go and allowing your sails fly forward completely, at the same time lifting your centerboard and letting go of the rudder pennant to lift the rudder…you glide into your (shallow) landing under complete control. This is a far cry from the usual tension and chaos of a downwind landing on a blustery day.

The anatomy of the cat ketch rig:

There are two masts, one set close to the bow which is the mainsail and a mizzen which is usually near or just aft of the center of the boat. The mainsail is larger than the mizzen – although the sails are much more evenly divided size-wise than in a jib-headed ketch. (And to answer the question many ask: yes if the forward sail is smaller it is a cat schooner – not a cat ketch rig).

The sails may be of any shape – some have gaffs; others, like our designs are marconi and have sprits not booms.

We chose sprits rather than booms because they are quick to rig and cheap to build and easy to stow (smaller models use simple and available fir closet rod)…

The sprit is a diagonal spar which holds the sail between the clew and the mast – it serves the same purpose as a boom. We like it in small boats particularly – because it eliminates the boom moving across the cockpit of a small boat and eliminates the need for a boom vang. If you are in the way during the tack, the sail just slides over you harmlessly (the one exception: do not sit directly in front of the mizzen mast on the middle seat, or you could get hit with the main sheets or the clew end of the sprit).

The sprit is attached to the clew with the end poked through a loop of webbing or rope. The forward end fits into a rope which is lashed to the mast (a snotter). This controls the height of the sprit and the relative leech and foot tension. Because these are all “soft” fittings, they are easily adjustable. There is a line to a cleat so that you can adjust sail draft while underway.

Sprits may be either straight or curved. We have done some informal tests and have not found that the curved sprits are enormously superior, although some people prefer them.

We are asked if full wishbone booms are more efficient, and yes, they are – but the little bit of extra efficiency comes at the expense of simplicity and cost.

If you are a good wood worker and like laminating things, curved sprits and wishbones are a nice touch and they can be made quite pretty.

The sprits are placed on opposite sides of the sails; in other words if the mainsail has the sprit on the starboard, the mizzen will have it on the port. Although the sail flops over the sprit on one tack, it does not affect the efficiency as much as it might appear to.

Shortening sail can be accomplished in two ways. In smaller models, the simplest way is to first, remove the mizzen and place the main in the center (single) sail position (given on all our plans for this rig). If the wind continues to pipe up, change down to the smaller mizzen sail. The second way to reef – which may the most desirable on the larger models, and an option for the smaller models for those who may not be comfortable with the mast exchange, is to have normal reef points in the sail and add halyards.

The combination of the sprit rigged cat ketch and a centerboard board allows for a great deal of adjustment for balancing out the boat in any conditions. If there is some lee helm in light wind, the board can be lowered further, moving the center of lateral resistance (CLR) forward or you can adjust the sails without lowering the board – sheet in the mizzen or let out the main…or combine the three options. Weather helm? Reverse the procedure. Normally (as designed) the helm should be neutral at 8-14 knots, with an increasing weather helm as the wind increases. When the sail/board adjustments are not quite enough to neutralize the helm, you can reef. You will always be able to trim to balance the helm in any conditions, by these methods.

Some Tips for Sailing a Cat Ketch:

• Because the sprit bisects the angle of the sail, there is very little load on the sheets. A simple cleat is all you need.
• Our designs call for, and we strongly advocate the use of double ended sheets, so that no matter which side of the boat you are sitting on, you can adjust the sheet without leaving your position. (Remember this is laid-back sailing).
• In windy or gusty condition, you always have the end of your double ended sheet close at hand and if you get a strong gust and feel you have heeled to an uncomfortable angle, just let the mainsheet go to reduce wind pressure and heeling force. WARNING: Be sure that you release the mainsheet (the forward sail) first. If you let the mizzen go first, it moves the center of effort forward and the boat will bear away which will increase the pressure and heeling and could cause a capsize.
• When sailing in light air, if your sails get a vertical crease close to the mast, ease the luff tension.
• When the wind is heavier if you see horizontal crease near the mast, increase the luff tension.
• Use the snotter line to adjust the relative tension of the foot and leech, they should be evenly and equally curved. So if the leech is tight and the foot is full, lower the angle of the sprit and for a tight foot and loose leech raise the sprit angle.
• Grounded! The day will come when you will run her aground in a strong breeze and you’ll get the centerboard stuck so you can’t raise it. The boat will swing around to a somewhat beam-on position. Now in most boats you’d be in a nice pickle…but with the cat ketch, just let the main (foresail) go and the center of effort will go so far aft that she will spin around and tack – then you can re-sheet your forward sail and sail off.

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Welcome to the Com-Pac Idea

Com-Pac Yachts began business in 1974 with our first boat, the Com-Pac 16. The idea then was to build a seaworthy yacht with a strong commitment to value. (For the full story, see Hutchins Company Profile .) Since then we have expanded our line and today we have twelve models, six cat-rigged sailboats, five sloop rigged sailboats and one power launch. The Com-Pac line covers a wide range of sizes from a 14' day sailor to the Com-Pac 27/3 cruising yacht . Each model, regardless of size, is built with the same exacting attention to detail and that same commitment to value.

Our line of modern cat-rigged models (dubbed “A New Breed of Catboat”) offer the ultimate in trailer-sailing ease and rig set up. All come with the Mastendr™ quick-rig sailing system that allows for the boom, sail, and gaff to be left installed on the boat while the mast is folded or raised. The shrouds stay attached and the head stay disconnects with the flip of the pre-adjusted forestay self-locking lever. This system, unique to Com-Pac, adds an ease and convenience to trailer sailing that is really astounding. Your mast is up and you are ready to go in seconds, not minutes.

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Just the Ticket...Less Strings and Things

Just the Ticket…Less Strings and Things

With the outstanding success of our free-standing cat rig Open30, “OverProof,” in demonstrating its offshore capabilities, Piet Human of Moondance Yachts in Cape Town, South Africa asked me “how do we give this boat a broader appeal by making it easier to handle so that it doesn’t require youth and athleticism to have it perform to its full potential?”

Coincidently, I was talking with a potential client about a similar boat for the San Francisco Bay area. He mentioned the growing following of the Wylie Cat 30 and how well the boat performed as a one-design and under the PHRF handicap system. After several discussions with Tom Wylie I soon came to realize that this might be the answer to Piet’s question. By combining a free-standing cat rig with a modern, light-weight racing hull form and state-of-the-art appendages, you could have simplicity and performance all wrapped up into one awesome package.

The history of the cat-rigged sailboat, or “cat-boat” as they came to be known, dates back as far as 1840 when they were used for fishing and coastal transportation in and around the New England area. They were characterized by a single mast carried well forward, the virtues of this type of rig being simplicity and ease of handling. Around the turn of the 19th century, catboats were adapted for racing, where long booms, gaffs, bowsprits and large jibs were fitted to capture as much wind as possible. One of the more well-know catboats of that era is the 12 foot (3.7m) Beetle Cat, which are still being built today. Some of the more contemporary cat-rigged boats include the Wyliecat 30 and 48, the Freedom 40s and smattering of one-off racing and cruising boats.

So what exactly are the advantages of a cat rig with a free-standing mast? Modern free-standing rigs are inherently safer, far less complicated, cost effective, more aerodynamically efficient, and when paired with the right platform are able to match the performance of a conventionally rigged boat.

Conventionally stayed rigs are held up by hundreds of little parts, any one of which could fail or slip resulting in a failure that could bring down the mast. A free-standing mast is held up by just two parts, the partners and the heel fitting – so the safety of the rig increases by the ratio of hundreds to 2. Failure in these areas is very unlikely if properly engineered, and can be easily inspected unlike a rigging connection at the top of a mast.

Less Complicated

The uni-sail has three trimming controls: the sheet, which is mounted at the very after end of the wish-bone boom and is controlled by winches port and starboard; a conventional cunningham arrangement lead back to the cockpit; and the choker which is a purchase system on the front of the boom that controls foot and leech tension, as well as mast bend. This serves to flatten and depower the sail in stronger wind conditions (not unlike a windsurfer rig). The uni-sail can be flown in breezes up to 25 knots without being reefed because the unstayed mast bends off in its upper sections with increasing wind pressure causing it to automatically unload. If it becomes necessary to reef, the sail has a conventional slab-reef system that is contained within lazy jacks supported by the wish-bone boom – so it becomes a one-man operation to lower and contain the sail. Because everything is so simple, there’s a lot less work to do so you don’t have to be a star athlete to sail the boat solo or double-handed. Yet, you can still maintain a very high level of performance. It also makes for far less stress when taking the family out for a Sunday cruise.

Cost Effective

The cat rigged Open30 has two sails……maybe three if you want a couple of spinnaker variations. So the cost of your sail inventory is cut dramatically, and with fewer strings to pull the deck hardware package is greatly simplified. While the mast will require more material to maintain the desired stiffness and bending characteristics, the heavier spar sections will be offset by not having spreaders, rigging terminals, standing rigging or chainplates. The wishbone boom is made from aluminum tubing and far less expensive than a conventional boom.

Aerodynamically Efficient

Free-standing rigs are more aerodynamically efficient because without wires, there is less windage (parasitic drag). In addition, the sail plan is no longer confined by the triangular shape defined by the fore and aft rigging. Because of induced drag the triangle is absolutely the worst possible planform for a lifting surface. Induced drag is a bi-product of lift, and although there are ways to manipulate it, it can never be totally eliminated. A working aerofoil, such as a wing, sail or keel, has a high pressure to windward and a low pressure to leeward and these are trying to equalize. In a triangular planform, the fluid flow on the high pressure side gets a chance to equalize sooner, by virtue of the shape (as opposed to a rectangular planform) by skewing up toward the tip and off the surface.  This skewing of flow from the high pressure side, mixing with the flow on the low pressure side, creates a tip vortex. The bigger the skew, the bigger the vortex, and the greater the induced drag. A way to reduce induced drag and increase the aerodynamic efficiency of the rig is to have either an elliptical or rectangular planform as there is little tendency for the flow to twist off into a large vortex with these shapes.  This is one of the main reasons for highly roached and square-topped mainsails on modern race boats. However, many of them place a great amount of importance on their running backstay systems to keep the rig up. Not so on a free-standing mast.

Comparable Performance

Cat-rigged boats have been stigmatized with a reputation for poor windward sailing capabilities and that was certainly the case with earlier designs. However, modern carbon fiber cat rigs are strong, light, aerodynamically efficient, and are able to carry a comparable amount of up-wind sail area to a conventional sloop. Between the incredible advancements in sail technology and not having a backstay to worry about, the roach of the sail can be fairly generous with full length battens to support it, creating a highly efficient airfoil.  Couple this with modern sailboat design philosophies, and the result is a vessel every bit as capable of hanging with the fleet on a beat to the windward mark. The off-the-wind performance of the cat rig is just as impressive and maybe more so. The area of the unisail alone, which can be adjusted to an extremely full shape, is more than enough for a great downwind ride, and very easily handled. To complement and enhance the reaching performance, the spar on the Open30 has been engineered to allow for a fractional asymmetric spinnaker to be flown from a deck-mounted, retractable bowsprit that can be articulated 35 degrees to port or starboard.

See our cat-rigged Open30 and the Paradox 1050 for more details on these exciting new designs.

References & Credits:

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The Ultimate Guide to Sail Types and Rigs (with Pictures)

What's that sail for? Generally, I don't know. So I've come up with a system. I'll explain you everything there is to know about sails and rigs in this article.

What are the different types of sails? Most sailboats have one mainsail and one headsail. Typically, the mainsail is a fore-and-aft bermuda rig (triangular shaped). A jib or genoa is used for the headsail. Most sailors use additional sails for different conditions: the spinnaker (a common downwind sail), gennaker, code zero (for upwind use), and stormsail.

Each sail has its own use. Want to go downwind fast? Use a spinnaker. But you can't just raise any sail and go for it. It's important to understand when (and how) to use each sail. Your rigging also impacts what sails you can use.

On this page:

Different sail types, the sail plan of a bermuda sloop, mainsail designs, headsail options, specialty sails, complete overview of sail uses, mast configurations and rig types.

This article is part 1 of my series on sails and rig types. Part 2 is all about the different types of rigging. If you want to learn to identify every boat you see quickly, make sure to read it. It really explains the different sail plans and types of rigging clearly.

Guide to Understanding Sail Rig Types (with Pictures)

First I'll give you a quick and dirty overview of sails in this list below. Then, I'll walk you through the details of each sail type, and the sail plan, which is the godfather of sail type selection so to speak.

Click here if you just want to scroll through a bunch of pictures .

Here's a list of different models of sails: (Don't worry if you don't yet understand some of the words, I'll explain all of them in a bit)

• Jib - triangular staysail
• Genoa - large jib that overlaps the mainsail
• Spinnaker - large balloon-shaped downwind sail for light airs
• Gennaker - crossover between a Genoa and Spinnaker
• Code Zero or Screecher - upwind spinnaker
• Drifter or reacher - a large, powerful, hanked on genoa, but made from lightweight fabric
• Windseeker - tall, narrow, high-clewed, and lightweight jib
• Trysail - smaller front-and-aft mainsail for heavy weather
• Storm jib - small jib for heavy weather

I have a big table below that explains the sail types and uses in detail .

I know, I know ... this list is kind of messy, so to understand each sail, let's place them in a system.

The first important distinction between sail types is the placement . The mainsail is placed aft of the mast, which simply means behind. The headsail is in front of the mast.

Generally, we have three sorts of sails on our boat:

• Mainsail: The large sail behind the mast which is attached to the mast and boom
• Headsail: The small sail in front of the mast, attached to the mast and forestay (ie. jib or genoa)
• Specialty sails: Any special utility sails, like spinnakers - large, balloon-shaped sails for downwind use

The second important distinction we need to make is the functionality . Specialty sails (just a name I came up with) each have different functionalities and are used for very specific conditions. So they're not always up, but most sailors carry one or more of these sails.

They are mostly attached in front of the headsail, or used as a headsail replacement.

The specialty sails can be divided into three different categories:

• downwind sails - like a spinnaker
• light air or reacher sails - like a code zero
• storm sails

The parts of any sail

Whether large or small, each sail consists roughly of the same elements. For clarity's sake I've took an image of a sail from the world wide webs and added the different part names to it:

• Head: Top of the sail
• Tack: Lower front corner of the sail
• Foot: Bottom of the sail
• Luff: Forward edge of the sail
• Leech: Back edge of the sail
• Clew: Bottom back corner of the sail

So now we speak the same language, let's dive into the real nitty gritty.

Basic sail shapes

Roughly speaking, there are actually just two sail shapes, so that's easy enough. You get to choose from:

• square rigged sails
• fore-and-aft rigged sails

I would definitely recommend fore-and-aft rigged sails. Square shaped sails are pretty outdated. The fore-and-aft rig offers unbeatable maneuverability, so that's what most sailing yachts use nowadays.

Square sails were used on Viking longships and are good at sailing downwind. They run from side to side. However, they're pretty useless upwind.

A fore-and-aft sail runs from the front of the mast to the stern. Fore-and-aft literally means 'in front and behind'. Boats with fore-and-aft rigged sails are better at sailing upwind and maneuvering in general. This type of sail was first used on Arabic boats.

As a beginner sailor I confuse the type of sail with rigging all the time. But I should cut myself some slack, because the rigging and sails on a boat are very closely related. They are all part of the sail plan .

A sail plan is made up of:

• Mast configuration - refers to the number of masts and where they are placed
• Sail type - refers to the sail shape and functionality
• Rig type - refers to the way these sails are set up on your boat

There are dozens of sails and hundreds of possible configurations (or sail plans).

For example, depending on your mast configuration, you can have extra headsails (which then are called staysails).

The shape of the sails depends on the rigging, so they overlap a bit. To keep it simple I'll first go over the different sail types based on the most common rig. I'll go over the other rig types later in the article.

Bermuda Sloop: the most common rig

Most modern small and mid-sized sailboats have a Bermuda sloop configuration . The sloop is one-masted and has two sails, which are front-and-aft rigged. This type of rig is also called a Marconi Rig. The Bermuda rig uses a triangular sail, with just one side of the sail attached to the mast.

The mainsail is in use most of the time. It can be reefed down, making it smaller depending on the wind conditions. It can be reefed down completely, which is more common in heavy weather. (If you didn't know already: reefing is skipper terms for rolling or folding down a sail.)

In very strong winds (above 30 knots), most sailors only use the headsail or switch to a trysail.

The headsail powers your bow, the mainsail powers your stern (rear). By having two sails, you can steer by using only your sails (in theory - it requires experience). In any case, two sails gives you better handling than one, but is still easy to operate.

Let's get to the actual sails. The mainsail is attached behind the mast and to the boom, running to the stern. There are multiple designs, but they actually don't differ that much. So the following list is a bit boring. Feel free to skip it or quickly glance over it.

• Square Top racing mainsail - has a high performance profile thanks to the square top, optional reef points
• Racing mainsail - made for speed, optional reef points
• Cruising mainsail - low-maintenance, easy to use, made to last. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Full-Batten Cruising mainsail - cruising mainsail with better shape control. Eliminates flogging. Full-length battens means the sail is reinforced over the entire length. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• High Roach mainsail - crossover between square top racing and cruising mainsail, used mostly on cats and multihulls. Generally have one or multiple reef points.
• Mast Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the mast - very convenient but less control; of sail shape. Have no reef points
• Boom Furling mainsail - sails specially made to roll up inside the boom. Have no reef points.

The headsail is the front sail in a front-and-aft rig. The sail is fixed on a stay (rope, wire or rod) which runs forward to the deck or bowsprit. It's almost always triangular (Dutch fishermen are known to use rectangular headsail). A triangular headsail is also called a jib .

Headsails can be attached in two ways:

• using roller furlings - the sail rolls around the headstay
• hank on - fixed attachment

Types of jibs:

Typically a sloop carries a regular jib as its headsail. It can also use a genoa.

• A jib is a triangular staysail set in front of the mast. It's the same size as the fore-triangle.
• A genoa is a large jib that overlaps the mainsail.

What's the purpose of a jib sail? A jib is used to improve handling and to increase sail area on a sailboat. This helps to increase speed. The jib gives control over the bow (front) of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship. The jib is the headsail (frontsail) on a front-and-aft rig.

The size of the jib is generally indicated by a number - J1, 2, 3, and so on. The number tells us the attachment point. The order of attachment points may differ per sailmaker, so sometimes J1 is the largest jib (on the longest stay) and sometimes it's the smallest (on the shortest stay). Typically the J1 jib is the largest - and the J3 jib the smallest.

Most jibs are roller furling jibs: this means they are attached to a stay and can be reefed down single-handedly. If you have a roller furling you can reef down the jib to all three positions and don't need to carry different sizes.

Originally called the 'overlapping jib', the leech of the genoa extends aft of the mast. This increases speed in light and moderate winds. A genoa is larger than the total size of the fore-triangle. How large exactly is indicated by a percentage.

• A number 1 genoa is typically 155% (it used to be 180%)
• A number 2 genoa is typically 125-140%

Genoas are typically made from 1.5US/oz polyester spinnaker cloth, or very light laminate.

This is where it gets pretty interesting. You can use all kinds of sails to increase speed, handling, and performance for different weather conditions.

Some rules of thumb:

• Large sails are typically good for downwind use, small sails are good for upwind use.
• Large sails are good for weak winds (light air), small sails are good for strong winds (storms).

Downwind sails

Thanks to the front-and-aft rig sailboats are easier to maneuver, but they catch less wind as well. Downwind sails are used to offset this by using a large sail surface, pulling a sailboat downwind. They can be hanked on when needed and are typically balloon shaped.

Here are the most common downwind sails:

• Big gennaker
• Small gennaker

A free-flying sail that fills up with air, giving it a balloon shape. Spinnakers are generally colorful, which is why they look like kites. This downwind sail has the largest sail area, and it's capable of moving a boat with very light wind. They are amazing to use on trade wind routes, where they can help you make quick progress.

Spinnakers require special rigging. You need a special pole and track on your mast. You attach the sail at three points: in the mast head using a halyard, on a pole, and on a sheet.

The spinnaker is symmetrical, meaning the luff is as long as its leech. It's designed for broad reaching.

Gennaker or cruising spinnaker

The Gennaker is a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker. It has less downwind performance than the spinnaker. It is a bit smaller, making it slower, but also easier to handle - while it remains very capable. The cruising spinnaker is designed for broad reaching.

The gennaker is a smaller, asymmetric spinnaker that's doesn't require a pole or track on the mast. Like the spinnaker, and unlike the genoa, the gennaker is set flying. Asymmetric means its luff is longer than its leech.

You can get big and small gennakers (roughly 75% and 50% the size of a true spinnaker).

Also called ...

• the cruising spinnaker
• cruising chute
• pole-less spinnaker
• SpinDrifter

... it's all the same sail.

Light air sails

There's a bit of overlap between the downwind sails and light air sails. Downwind sails can be used as light air sails, but not all light air sails can be used downwind.

Here are the most common light air sails:

• Spinnaker and gennaker

Drifter reacher

Code zero reacher.

A drifter (also called a reacher) is a lightweight, larger genoa for use in light winds. It's roughly 150-170% the size of a genoa. It's made from very lightweight laminated spinnaker fabric (1.5US/oz).

Thanks to the extra sail area the sail offers better downwind performance than a genoa. It's generally made from lightweight nylon. Thanks to it's genoa characteristics the sail is easier to use than a cruising spinnaker.

The code zero reacher is officially a type of spinnaker, but it looks a lot like a large genoa. And that's exactly what it is: a hybrid cross between the genoa and the asymmetrical spinnaker (gennaker). The code zero however is designed for close reaching, making it much flatter than the spinnaker. It's about twice the size of a non-overlapping jib.

A windseeker is a small, free-flying staysail for super light air. It's tall and thin. It's freestanding, so it's not attached to the headstay. The tack attaches to a deck pad-eye. Use your spinnakers' halyard to raise it and tension the luff.

It's made from nylon or polyester spinnaker cloth (0.75 to 1.5US/oz).

It's designed to guide light air onto the lee side of the main sail, ensuring a more even, smooth flow of air.

Stormsails are stronger than regular sails, and are designed to handle winds of over 45 knots. You carry them to spare the mainsail. Sails

A storm jib is a small triangular staysail for use in heavy weather. If you participate in offshore racing you need a mandatory orange storm jib. It's part of ISAF's requirements.

A trysail is a storm replacement for the mainsail. It's small, triangular, and it uses a permanently attached pennant. This allows it to be set above the gooseneck. It's recommended to have a separate track on your mast for it - you don't want to fiddle around when you actually really need it to be raised ... now.

Why Use Different Sails At All?

You could just get the largest furling genoa and use it on all positions. So why would you actually use different types of sails?

The main answer to that is efficiency . Some situations require other characteristics.

Having a deeply reefed genoa isn't as efficient as having a small J3. The reef creates too much draft in the sail, which increases heeling. A reefed down mainsail in strong winds also increases heeling. So having dedicated (storm) sails is probably a good thing, especially if you're planning more demanding passages or crossings.

But it's not just strong winds, but also light winds that can cause problems. Heavy sails will just flap around like laundry in very light air. So you need more lightweight fabrics to get you moving.

What Are Sails Made Of?

The most used materials for sails nowadays are:

• Dacron - woven polyester
• woven nylon
• laminated fabrics - increasingly popular

Sails used to be made of linen. As you can imagine, this is terrible material on open seas. Sails were rotting due to UV and saltwater. In the 19th century linen was replaced by cotton.

It was only in the 20th century that sails were made from synthetic fibers, which were much stronger and durable. Up until the 1980s most sails were made from Dacron. Nowadays, laminates using yellow aramids, Black Technora, carbon fiber and Spectra yarns are more and more used.

Laminates are as strong as Dacron, but a lot lighter - which matters with sails weighing up to 100 kg (220 pounds).

By the way: we think that Viking sails were made from wool and leather, which is quite impressive if you ask me.

In this section of the article I give you a quick and dirty summary of different sail plans or rig types which will help you to identify boats quickly. But if you want to really understand it clearly, I really recommend you read part 2 of this series, which is all about different rig types.

You can't simply count the number of masts to identify rig type But you can identify any rig type if you know what to look for. We've created an entire system for recognizing rig types. Let us walk you through it. Read all about sail rig types

As I've said earlier, there are two major rig types: square rigged and fore-and-aft. We can divide the fore-and-aft rigs into three groups:

• Bermuda rig (we have talked about this one the whole time) - has a three-sided mainsail
• Gaff rig - has a four-sided mainsail, the head of the mainsail is guided by a gaff
• Lateen rig - has a three-sided mainsail on a long yard

There are roughly four types of boats:

• one masted boats - sloop, cutter
• two masted boats - ketch, schooner, brig
• three masted - barque
• fully rigged or ship rigged - tall ship

Everything with four masts is called a (tall) ship. I think it's outside the scope of this article, but I have written a comprehensive guide to rigging. I'll leave the three and four-masted rigs for now. If you want to know more, I encourage you to read part 2 of this series.

One-masted rigs

Boats with one mast can have either one sail, two sails, or three or more sails.

The 3 most common one-masted rigs are:

• Cat - one mast, one sail
• Sloop - one mast, two sails
• Cutter - one mast, three or more sails

1. Gaff Cat

2. Gaff Sloop

Two-masted rigs

Two-masted boats can have an extra mast in front or behind the main mast. Behind (aft of) the main mast is called a mizzen mast . In front of the main mast is called a foremast .

The 5 most common two-masted rigs are:

• Lugger - two masts (mizzen), with lugsail (cross between gaff rig and lateen rig) on both masts
• Yawl - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast much taller than mizzen. Mizzen without mainsail.
• Ketch - two masts (mizzen), fore-and-aft rigged on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller mizzen. Mizzen has mainsail.
• Schooner - two masts (foremast), generally gaff rig on both masts. Main mast with only slightly smaller foremast. Sometimes build with three masts, up to seven in the age of sail.
• Brig - two masts (foremast), partially square-rigged. Main mast carries small lateen rigged sail.

4. Schooner

5. Brigantine

This article is part 1 of a series about sails and rig types If you want to read on and learn to identify any sail plans and rig type, we've found a series of questions that will help you do that quickly. Read all about recognizing rig types

Related Questions

What is the difference between a gennaker & spinnaker? Typically, a gennaker is smaller than a spinnaker. Unlike a spinnaker, a gennaker isn't symmetric. It's asymmetric like a genoa. It is however rigged like a spinnaker; it's not attached to the forestay (like a jib or a genoa). It's a downwind sail, and a cross between the genoa and the spinnaker (hence the name).

What is a Yankee sail? A Yankee sail is a jib with a high-cut clew of about 3' above the boom. A higher-clewed jib is good for reaching and is better in high waves, preventing the waves crash into the jibs foot. Yankee jibs are mostly used on traditional sailboats.

How much does a sail weigh? Sails weigh anywhere between 4.5-155 lbs (2-70 kg). The reason is that weight goes up exponentially with size. Small boats carry smaller sails (100 sq. ft.) made from thinner cloth (3.5 oz). Large racing yachts can carry sails of up to 400 sq. ft., made from heavy fabric (14 oz), totaling at 155 lbs (70 kg).

What's the difference between a headsail and a staysail? The headsail is the most forward of the staysails. A boat can only have one headsail, but it can have multiple staysails. Every staysail is attached to a forward running stay. However, not every staysail is located at the bow. A stay can run from the mizzen mast to the main mast as well.

What is a mizzenmast? A mizzenmast is the mast aft of the main mast (behind; at the stern) in a two or three-masted sailing rig. The mizzenmast is shorter than the main mast. It may carry a mainsail, for example with a ketch or lugger. It sometimes doesn't carry a mainsail, for example with a yawl, allowing it to be much shorter.

Special thanks to the following people for letting me use their quality photos: Bill Abbott - True Spinnaker with pole - CC BY-SA 2.0 lotsemann - Volvo Ocean Race Alvimedica and the Code Zero versus SCA and the J1 - CC BY-SA 2.0 Lisa Bat - US Naval Academy Trysail and Storm Jib dry fit - CC BY-SA 2.0 Mike Powell - White gaff cat - CC BY-SA 2.0 Anne Burgess - Lugger The Reaper at Scottish Traditional Boat Festival

Hi, I stumbled upon your page and couldn’t help but notice some mistakes in your description of spinnakers and gennakers. First of all, in the main photo on top of this page the small yacht is sailing a spinnaker, not a gennaker. If you look closely you can see the spinnaker pole standing on the mast, visible between the main and headsail. Further down, the discription of the picture with the two German dinghies is incorrect. They are sailing spinnakers, on a spinnaker pole. In the farthest boat, you can see a small piece of the pole. If needed I can give you the details on the difference between gennakers and spinnakers correctly?

Hi Shawn, I am living in Utrecht I have an old gulf 32 and I am sailing in merkmeer I find your articles very helpful Thanks

Thank you for helping me under stand all the sails there names and what there functions were and how to use them. I am planning to build a trimaran 30’ what would be the best sails to have I plan to be coastal sailing with it. Thank you

Hey Comrade!

Well done with your master piece blogging. Just a small feedback. “The jib gives control over the bow of the ship, making it easier to maneuver the ship. The mainsail gives control over the stern of the ship.” Can you please first tell the different part of a sail boat earlier and then talk about bow and stern later in the paragraph. A reader has no clue on the newly introduced terms. It helps to keep laser focused and not forget main concepts.

Shawn, I am currently reading How to sail around the World” by Hal Roth. Yes, I want to sail around the world. His book is truly grounded in real world experience but like a lot of very knowledgable people discussing their area of expertise, Hal uses a lot of terms that I probably should have known but didn’t, until now. I am now off to read your second article. Thank You for this very enlightening article on Sail types and their uses.

Shawn Buckles

HI CVB, that’s a cool plan. Thanks, I really love to hear that. I’m happy that it was helpful to you and I hope you are of to a great start for your new adventure!

Hi GOWTHAM, thanks for the tip, I sometimes forget I haven’t specified the new term. I’ve added it to the article.

Nice article and video; however, you’re mixing up the spinnaker and the gennaker.

A started out with a question. What distinguishes a brig from a schooner? Which in turn led to follow-up questions: I know there are Bermuda rigs and Latin rig, are there more? Which in turn led to further questions, and further, and further… This site answers them all. Wonderful work. Thank you.

Great post and video! One thing was I was surprised how little you mentioned the Ketch here and not at all in the video or chart, and your sample image is a large ship with many sails. Some may think Ketch’s are uncommon, old fashioned or only for large boats. Actually Ketch’s are quite common for cruisers and live-aboards, especially since they often result in a center cockpit layout which makes for a very nice aft stateroom inside. These are almost exclusively the boats we are looking at, so I was surprised you glossed over them.

Love the article and am finding it quite informative.

While I know it may seem obvious to 99% of your readers, I wish you had defined the terms “upwind” and “downwind.” I’m in the 1% that isn’t sure which one means “with the wind” (or in the direction the wind is blowing) and which one means “against the wind” (or opposite to the way the wind is blowing.)

paul adriaan kleimeer

like in all fields of syntax and terminology the terms are colouual meaning local and then spead as the technology spread so an history lesson gives a floral bouque its colour and in the case of notical terms span culture and history adds an detail that bring reverence to the study simply more memorable.

Hi, I have a small yacht sail which was left in my lock-up over 30 years ago I basically know nothing about sails and wondered if you could spread any light as to the make and use of said sail. Someone said it was probably originally from a Wayfayer wooden yacht but wasn’t sure. Any info would be must appreciated and indeed if would be of any use to your followers? I can provide pics but don’t see how to include them at present

kind regards

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Sailboat rig types: sloop, cutter, ketch, yawl, schooner, cat.

Naval architects designate sailboat rig types by number and location of masts. The six designations are sloop, cutter, cat, ketch, yawl, and schooner. Although in defining and describing these six rigs I may use terminology associated with the sail plan, the rig type has nothing to do with the number of sails, their arrangement or location. Such terms that have no bearing on the rig type include headsail names such as jib, genoa, yankee; furling systems such as in-mast or in-boom; and sail parts such as foot, clew, tack, leach, and roach. Rig questions are one of the primary areas of interest among newcomers to sailing and studying the benefits of each type is a good way to learn about sailing. I will deal with the rigs from most popular to least.

Sloop The simplest and most popular rig today is the sloop. A sloop is defined as a yacht whose mast is somewhere between stations 3 and 4 in the 10 station model of a yacht. This definition places the mast with two thirds of the vessel aft and one third forward. The sloop is dominant on small and medium sized yachts and with the shift from large foretriangles (J-dimension in design parlance) to larger mains a solid majority on larger yachts as well. Simple sloop rigs with a single headsail point the highest because of the tighter maximum sheeting angle and therefore have the best windward performance of the rig types. They are the choice for one-design racing fleets and America’s cup challenges. The forestay can attached either at the masthead or some fraction below. These two types of sloops are described respectively as masthead or fractionally rigged. Fractionally rigged sloops where the forestay attaches below the top of the mast allow racers to easily control head and main sail shapes by tightening up the backstay and bending the mast.

Cutter A cutter has one mast like the sloop, and people rightfully confuse the two. A cutter is defined as a yachts whose mast is aft of station 4. Ascertaining whether the mast is aft or forward of station 4 (what if it is at station 4?) is difficult unless you have the design specifications. And even a mast located forward of station 4 with a long bowsprit may be more reasonably referred to as a cutter. The true different is the size of the foretriangle. As such while it might annoy Bob Perry and Jeff_h, most people just give up and call sloops with jibstays cutters. This arrangement is best for reaching or when heavy weather dictates a reefed main. In moderate or light air sailing, forget the inner staysail; it will just backwind the jib and reduce your pointing height.

Ketch The ketch rig is our first that has two masts. The main is usually stepped in location of a sloop rig, and some manufactures have used the same deck mold for both rig types. The mizzen, as the slightly shorter and further aft spar is called, makes the resulting sail plan incredibly flexible. A ketch rig comes into her own on reaching or downwind courses. In heavy weather owners love to sail under jib and jigger (jib and mizzen). Upwind the ketch suffers from backwinding of the mizzen by the main. You can add additional headsails to make a cutter-ketch.

Yawl The yawl is similar to the ketch rig and has the same trade-offs with respect to upwind and downwind performance. She features two masts just like on a ketch with the mizzen having less air draft and being further aft. In contrast and much like with the sloop vs. cutter definition, the yawl mizzen’s has much smaller sail plan. During the CCA era, naval architects defined yawl as having the mast forward or aft of the rudderpost, but in today’s world of hull shapes (much like with the sloop/cutter) that definition does not work. The true different is the height of the mizzen in proportion to the main mast. The yawl arrangement is a lovely, classic look that is rarely if ever seen on modern production yachts.

Schooner The schooner while totally unpractical has a romantic charm. Such a yacht features two masts of which the foremost is shorter than the mizzen (opposite of a ketch rig). This change has wide affects on performance and sail plan flexibility. The two masts provide a base to fly unusual canvas such as a mule (a triangular sail which spans between the two spars filling the space aft of the foremast’s mainsail). The helm is tricky to balance because apparent wind difference between the sails, and there is considerable backwinding upwind. Downwind you can put up quite a bit of canvas and build up speed.

Cat The cat rig is a single spar design like the sloop and cutter, but the mast location is definately forward of station 3 and maybe even station. You see this rig on small racing dinghies, lasers and the like. It is the simplest of rigs with no headsails and sometimes without even a boom but has little versatility. Freedom and Nonesuch yachts are famous for this rig type. A cat ketch variation with a mizzen mast is an underused rig which provides the sailplan flexibility a single masted cat boat lacks. These are great fun to sail.

Conclusion Sloop, cutter, ketch, yawl, schooner, and cat are the six rig types seen on yachts. The former three are widely more common than the latter three. Each one has unique strengths and weaknesses. The sloop is the best performing upwind while the cat is the simplest form. Getting to know the look and feel of these rig types will help you determine kind of sailing you enjoy most.

5 Replies to “Sailboat Rig Types: Sloop, Cutter, Ketch, Yawl, Schooner, Cat”

Thanks for this information. I’m doing my research on what type of sailboat I will eventually buy and was confused as to all the different configurations! This helped quite a bit.

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Being from the south, my distinction between a ketch and a yawl: if that mizzen falls over on a ketch, the boat will catch it; if it falls over on a yawl, it’s bye bye y’all.

I thought a Yawl had to have the mizzen mast behind the rudder and a ketch had the mizzen forward of the rudder.

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Better Sailing

What are the Best Sailboat Rigs?

Some of the most basic rig choices are the sloop, cutter, cat, ketch, and schooner, among others. But how can we choose among them? The type of rig is often a choice that is based on your sailboat size, preferred layout, and the maximum size of sail that can be handled. Moreover, there are two main rig configurations: fore-and-aft rig and square-rigged. Rigging is divided into two different categories, the standing that supports the mast, and the running which manages the orientation of the sails and their degree of furling. Rigging forms an essential part of your sailboat and is therefore important to know what are the best sailboat rigs so as to find out which one suits your sailboat. Let’s see up next!

>>Also Read: What is Sailboat Rigging?

The Bermuda Rig

These tall triangular sails are called the Bermuda rig, or Marconi rig, and consist of one large, triangular-shaped sail that most of the time goes all the way to the top of the mast. In other words, the Bermuda rig has a single headsail or a sail forward of the mast. The main advantage of this type of rig is that it can sail upwind. Also, it has more power when the boat is sailing into the wind. Moreover, the single mainsail is easy to manage and the single headsail is easy to hoist and trim. The old square-rigged boats could sail with the wind behind them, thus the creation of the trade routes using the term “trade winds”. The Bermuda rig is a common variation of the Fractional sloop.

The Ketch Rig

The Ketch rig is ideal for a small cruising sailboat and is quite similar to the Cutter rig. However, the cutter rig breaks up the headsail area but the ketch rig breaks up the mainsail area into two smaller ones. In other words, on a ketch rig, you have two masts instead of one. The aft-most mast is called the mizzen mast and the sail is called the mizzen sail. Generally, a ketch rig can have either a headsail (sloop) or two headsails (cutter). Unlike the Bermuda rig, the Ketch rig performs better downwind and also performs great windward. The downside with the Ketch is that it can create confusion due to its different sail variations and extra sails. Lastly, due to its complex sail handling, downwind performance, and more sail combinations there are many experienced sailors that choose the ketch rig for long ocean cruising.

The Cutter Rig

The Cutter rig is similar to the Bermuda rig but it has a notable difference; instead of having one large headsail, the Cutter separates its forward sail area into two smaller headsails. This rig type is very common for sailboats that plan sailing on long-passages. This is because the smaller headsails are easier to manage by a single person. Also, the 3-sails configuration allows for different sail combinations something that helps in harsh weather conditions. Often, cutter rigs have a bowsprit that emerges from the bow of the sailboat and supports the two headsail area. The Cutter rig is also great for sailing into the wind, provides balance, and is ideal for open-ocean conditions.

The Gaff Rig

The Gaff rig is an old rigging configuration and has more to do with the sail’s shape than the number of sails. A gaff-rigged sailboat hoists a 4-cornered sail instead of a triangular 3-cornered one. This type of rig is not really common anymore but there are still many ketch style sailboats that originally had gaff sails. The gaff is not really efficient for sailing upwind but it offers great speed performance, ease of control, and sail direction than the square-riggers of that time.

The Sloop Rig

A sloop rig has a single-mast and a fore-and-aft sail configuration. This type of rigging is quite popular due to its great ability to sail upwind and it’s also appropriate for short-handing. However, the sloop rig is not advisable for boats more than 40ft as the sails will be difficult to manage. Furthermore, a great advantage of the sloop rig is that it has a simpler plan that allows for fewer wires and fewer costs in terms of maintenance and repair. The basic sail plan needs two sails but there are many sailors that buy genoas, spinnakers, gennakers, wind-seekers, and anything to maximize performance.

The Junk Rig

This rig type dates back to the 10 th  century when the Chinese were sailing the oceans with a rig that withstood for a long time. They managed to create a different sail plan and it was clear that they were way ahead of their time. Nowadays, there are some sailors who think that this very old sail plan is superior to the more popular Bermuda rig and others. The main characteristics of junk rigging are that it lacks stays and shrouds and that is based on fully battened sails. Because of this full batten set-up, the sails are fast downwind, easy to reef, and self-tacking. However, without having a standing rigging they’re more prone to damage, and most importantly they’re not good for upwind sailing.

The Yawl Rig

A yawl is very similar to a ketch. The yawl comes with two masts, the mizzenmast which is smaller and sets farther aft behind the rudder post, and the mainmast. There are many sailors that find the yawl rig unpractical and not quite efficient. Furthermore, some believe that the small sail configuration hanging over the stern is an advantage to steadying life at a mooring. On the other hand, others think that the mizzen on a yawl doesn’t provide any horsepower or ease-of-handling benefits. In any case, most sailors admit that yawls are good-looking and have a steady stature but are not really preferred for their sailing performance.

The Cat Rig

A cat rig consists of a single mast situated forward and near the bow. Also, it carries a large single sail and has no standing rigging. A great advantage of cat rigs is that they’re very simple to sail and manage. This is because they have one large sail and no rigging, therefore they can be single-handed quite easily. Moreover, on large vessels, the cat rig design offers a considerable amount of salon space. As the mast is placed far forward, this leaves plenty of room for the cabins. But there’s a crucial downside: upwind performance. Unlike the sloop rig, the cat rig might be easy to sail but it doesn’t perform well when sailing upwind. In any case, one can admit that cat rigs are maneuverable, simple, and economical. Lastly, they’re perfect for short-handed sailing and downwind passages.

The Schooner

Generally, a typical schooner has two masts that are positioned forward in the sailboat. Unlike the ketch or yawl rigging, the forward mast is smaller than the aft mast. Also, there are one or more jibs placed forward of the foremast. Some schooners tend to use triangular Bermuda sails on either one or both masts. However, there are others that have gaff-rigged sails. There are some that still prefer the gaff rigging for long ocean cruising as it provides the ability to set more sail area on a given length of the mast.

However, the gaff rig is not as efficient as the Bermuda rig as it has more complicated rigging and requires more persons for sail handling. The gaff is a short spar situated at the top of the sail and allows the sail to extend back along a fourth side. Like this, it gains size over a triangular sail of the same height.

>>Also Read: The Different Types Of Sailboats

The Bottom Line

So, what are the best sailboat rigs? The answer depends on different factors and the choices you make are mostly a matter of one’s sailing preferences. There’s no wrong or right rigging and once you know what you want from your sailing experience and function of your sailboat then choosing the right rig for your sailboat will be much easier. Some say that the ketch rig is unbeatable for off-shore sailing while others say that the Bermuda sloop is the most efficient for sailing into the wind. On the other hand, cutters are great for racing and cruising but they’re not quite efficient to windward as a sloop-rigged.

As for schooners, they’re generally easy to balance, are powerful, and offer a great sail plan. But, they have two halyards per sail, no running backstays, and not quite good upwind performance. In any case, I hope you enjoyed reading this article about sailboat rigging and that it’ll help you choose the best rig that suits your needs!

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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• Cat Ketch Sailboats

Do The Unstayed Rigs Of Cat Ketch Sailboats Really Work?

Cat ketch sailboats are instantly recognizable by their tapered masts and total absence of standing rigging. There's nothing new about free-standing rigs though; they've been around for thousands of years - the Chinese Junk being the best known example.

But we have Gary Hoyt to thank for developing these sailboats for modern day cruising boats.

Hoyt, a former Finn Olympian and Sunfish World Champion, recognised that free-standing rigs would be just as successful on cruising sailboats as they were on his racing dinghies, and set out to prove it.

1977 saw the launch of Hoyt's Freedom 40 cat ketch, of which more than 90 have been produced to date.

Hoyt's early version had aluminium masts, but the development of carbon fibre spars combining strength, stiffness and light weight enabled these sailboat designs to be brought really up to date.

All unstayed masts are keel-stepped as they rely entirely on the cantilever thus provided by the deck for support. The mast is subjected to bending moment only, with none of the compressive forces that a stayed mast has to withstand.

The flexibility of the rig means that it's impossible to get sufficient forestay tension to support a conventional jib, so any such sail is likely to be a blade type set up on a fractionally rigged forestay. More often than not headsails are dispensed with altogether and a single-masted cat rig or ketch rig used - the Freedom 40 being a notable example.

Either conventional booms or wishbone rigs are used to support the clew of the sail. The wishbone rig greatly reduces the risk of head injury from an accidental gybe - a valuable safety feature indeed on cruising sailboats of any kind. Aerodynamically this rig is very clean - few yachtsmen will lament the loss of the rigging-induced whining when it starts to blow, but it does mean there's less to grab hold of when up on deck.

Advantages of Unstayed Rigs on Cat Ketch Sailboats

• Absence of shrouds and stays means less weight aloft;
• Low centre of effort produces less heeling moment than a conventional rig;
• Flexible unstayed mast bends in strong gusts, flattening sail and de-powering it;
• Ease of tacking and jibing - just change course and the sail will flop over onto the other side of the boat without any drama;
• Running downwind is similarly stress free, with one sail out to port and the other to starboard. If the wind pipes up both sails can be eased forward, spilling the wind and steadying the boat.

Disadvantages?

It's often said that they're less efficient to windward than the Marconi Rig (the Bermudan Sloop ), but off the wind they make up for it.

However, if you take a look at this this video of a heavily reefed 40 ft cat ketch sailboat overhauling a 48 foot cutter you'll have few doubts about their windward ability!

Cat ketches clearly have a lot going for them!

Seen alongside the complexity of a conventionally rigged sailboat, it's easy to imagine that the unstayed rigs of cat ketch sailboats represent the future for cruising sailboat designs

The Cat Ketch Sailboat: A Few FAQs...

What is a cat ketch sailboat?

A cat ketch sailboat is a sailboat that has two masts, one at the very bow and one further aft, and no jib. The sails are usually triangular and attached to free-standing masts that can bend and de-power in strong winds.

How do you sail a cat ketch sailboat?

Sailing a cat ketch sailboat is similar to sailing any other sailboat, but with some differences. Here are some basic tips:

• To tack, simply turn the boat through the wind and let the sails switch sides. You don't need to touch the sheets or the tiller during the manoeuvre;
• To jibe, turn the boat away from the wind and let the sails switch sides. Be careful not to jibe too fast or too hard, as this can damage the masts or cause excessive rolling;
• To reef, lower the halyard until the desired amount of sail is left, then secure it with a cleat or a knot. You can reef either or both sails depending on the wind strength and direction;
• To trim, adjust the sheets until the sails are set at an angle that gives you maximum speed and comfort. You can also use the wishbone booms to change the angle of attack of the sails.

What are some examples of cat ketch sailboats?

Some examples of cat ketch sailboats are:

• The Freedom 40, designed by Gary Hoyt in 1977, was one of the first modern cat ketch sailboats. It has an aluminium mast forward and a carbon fibre mast aft, and can carry a small jib on a fractional forestay;
• The Herreshoff 31, designed by Halsey Herreshoff in 1979, is a classic cat ketch sailboat. It has wooden masts and wishbone booms, and can carry a spinnaker for downwind sailing;
• The Core Sound 15, designed by Graham Byrnes in 2015, is a small cat ketch sailboat. It has carbon fiber masts and conventional booms, and is suitable for beach sailing and day cruising.

The above answers were drafted by sailboat-cruising.com using GPT-4 (OpenAI’s large-scale language-generation model) as a research assistant to develop source material; to the best of our knowledge,  we believe them to be accurate.

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Cat-Rigged Scows: Is “Boom Over the Corner” a Good Thing?

Boats with only a mainsail (no jib), sometimes called cat-rigged boats, sail upwind with their boom further out than boats with jibs. Most of these main-only boats use “boom over the corner” as an initial trim reference. (The corner refers to the corner of the leeward rail and the transom.)

However, there are exceptions, particularly in the MC Scow class, where many sailors trim the boom much closer to the centerline in light-medium wind. The same is true to a slightly lesser degree in the C scow class. Take a look at the pictures below and see if you can spot this difference.

Could the MC and C scow classes improve their upwind performance by using boom over the corner as a starting point for sail trim? We got opinions from successful scow sailors, some of whom have also sailed other mainsail-only boats.  We also reviewed the design, controls, and standard trim practices from various classes to identify any differences.

Boats without Jibs Need the Boom off Center

• With a jib, air flow is accelerated in slot, so the forward part of the mainsail has more lift. The combination of jib and main gives more forward force.
• Without a jib, there is no added acceleration and less lift from the forward part of the main. The maximum draft is designed to be 40-45% aft for efficiency. Thus, the total sail force is more to the side in a cat-rigged boat.
• Therefore, main-only boats need to have the boom off center to direct the sail force more forward.

Standard Trimming Practices

Standard trimming practices for mainsail-only boats differ based on design. This section compares several common designs.

• No traveler
• Mast not very flexible
• Beginners are taught to start with the boom over the corner. Even as they become proficient, the boom rarely comes inside of the corner.
• Amidships traveler
• Flexible mast and controls for de-powering.
• Vang not effective upwind.
• Boom is never further in than the inner side deck, which is very narrow.
• Very light air, a little further out than over the corner.
• Light air – in slightly for twist.
• Drop traveler progressively as breeze builds. In heavy air, boom is outboard 4” – 8”.
• “Traveler” is a bridle that generally lets the block move to corner of the boat. By loosening the bridle, you can get the boom to move inboard but this is generally used only temporarily.
• Flexible mast.
• Vang helps bend mast upwind.
• Boom is rarely inside the corner. Sailors sometimes loosen the bridle or pull the boom block in manually for short periods if they want to point higher at the expense of speed.
• Rear traveler.
• Somewhat flexible mast, stiffness regulated by jack stays.
• Powerful vang that pulls down on boom.
• Sails have a large roach. The sail stalls easily in light-medium air if you try to pinch.
• Light air – start with traveler 4″- 6” to leeward and ease sheet so that boom is over corner. This gives some twist to the sail.
• Sheet harder as breeze builds to flatten sail and reduce twist. The boom comes inside the corner by a foot or more. Drop traveler more when becoming overpowered.
• Amidships traveler.
• Powerful vang that bends mast directly.
• The tuning guides do not generally discuss boom position. A few guides mention easing the mainsheet to position the boom over the corner in light air.
• Tuning guides suggest keeping traveler on center and trimming to flatten sail and control leech.
• When you begin to become overpowered, flatten the sail first with the sail controls. Next, drop the traveler 1”. Drop traveler as much as 2-4” if breeze builds further.

Angle of Boom to Centerline with Boom Over the Corner

To make sure our class comparisons are valid, we estimated the angle of the boom relative to the centerline of the boat when the boom is over the corner. You can find this angle by measuring the distance from the mast to the center of the transom and the distance from the center of the transom to the corner.

Our figures are based on drawings from the classes discussed above. Here’s what we learned:

• All classes fell in the range of 7⁰ – 10⁰ off center when the boom is over the corner.
• The Laser, C, and MC were on the higher end of this range, while the Opti and Finn were on the lower end.
• This means that the scows might have the boom inside the corner (about 4”) and still match the Opti and Finn boom angle.

What do Scow Sailors Say About Boom over the Corner?

We interviewed several successful scow sailors on this topic. Some of these sailors had extensive experience in non-scow classes (e.g., the Finn) before jumping to the C or MC scows. Others had been life-long scow sailors. These successful sailors all trim using the standard parameters: angle of attack, camber, draft position, and twist.

The difference is that a few sailors also pay specific attention to boom position, and tend to want to keep the boom closer to the corner. In the scow classes, this means dropping the traveler earlier. Here are the key points and counterpoints in table form.

Point/Counterpoint – More or less Traveler

Key take-aways.

• Boom over the corner is a rough reference. Don’t get hung up precision. Scows might have their boom 4″ or so in from the corner and still match the boom angle of Finns and Optis.
• Like any boat, scows need flow to go fast. Flow over the sails creates speed through the water, which creates flow over the foils.
• Different sailing styles can work. Many successful scow sailors can keep the boat moving in light-medium air with the boom well inside the corner. However, it’s easy to lose flow and hard to get it back.
• If you’re having trouble with boat speed and pointing, experiment with different styles of sailing. Try approaching boom over the corner sooner than you would normally.
• As sailors from other classes get more experience in the scows, time will tell if “boom over the corner” trimming becomes more prevalent.

SailZing Mainsail Trim Category Heavy Air Boat Speed – Drop Traveler and Sheet Harder Draheim Performance Perspectives – Drop the Traveler (jump to 01:35 for this topic)

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Sail Rigging Types: A Comprehensive Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 22, 2023 | Sailboat Racing

Short answer sail rigging types:

Sail rigging types refer to the various configurations and arrangements of ropes, cables, and fittings used to support and control sails on a sailing vessel. Common types include the sloop, cutter, ketch, yawl, schooner, and catboat. Each type has different advantages and is suited for different sailing conditions and purposes.

Sail Rigging Types: A Comprehensive Guide for Exploring Different Options

Title: Sail Rigging Types: A Comprehensive Guide for Exploring Different Options

Introduction: Mastering the art of sail rigging is an essential skill for every sailor. It not only contributes to boat performance but also determines your ability to harness the wind effectively. With various types of sail rigging available, understanding their differences and knowing when to use them can be a game-changer on the water. In this comprehensive guide, we will explore different sail rigging options, providing you with professional insights and some witty anecdotes along the way.

1. Bermuda Rig: Elegant and versatile, the Bermuda rig is undoubtedly the most common type found in modern sailing. Consisting of a single triangular mainsail and a jib in front, this arrangement allows sailors to easily control their sails while providing excellent maneuverability even in challenging conditions. Its origins can be traced back to the early 17th century, proving its timelessness as a reliable choice across various sailing disciplines.

2. Gaff Rig: For those seeking a classic look and craving nostalgia on the open seas, gaff rigs provide an impressive aesthetic appeal reminiscent of days gone by. Characterized by horizontal wooden poles (gaffs) supporting a four-sided mainsail, this traditional rig offers substantial power and good downwind performance. However, managing larger sails in heavier winds may demand more effort from the crew.

3. Cat Rig: Simplicity meets efficiency with cat rigs – perfect for solo or short-handed sailors who prefer straightforwardness without multiple lines cluttering their cockpit. This type comprises only one mast located near the bow carrying a large mainsail for optimum power-to-weight ratio. While cats excel at upwind sailing due to their balanced weight distribution, they might lack versatility compared to other rig types.

4. Ketch Rig: The sophisticated charm of ketch rigs has captured many sailors’ hearts throughout history. Featuring two masts – a taller main mast towards the front and a shorter mizzen mast towards the rear – ketch rigs offer versatility and fine-tuned sail options for diverse wind conditions. The presence of multiple sails enables better balance, making them ideal for long-distance cruising or upwind sailing when the going gets tough.

5. Schooner Rig: Sailors with a taste for grandeur will find themselves enchanted by the elegant schooner rig. Comprising of two or more masts, the fore-and-aft configuration differentiates it from its square-rigged counterparts. Schooners boast exceptional sail area flexibility and are often admired for their majestic appearance, ensuring an impressive sight among fellow seafarers. However, this elegance comes at the cost of additional complexity in sail management.

Conclusion: Choosing the right sail rigging type requires careful consideration of various factors such as your sailing style, boat size, intended use, and personal preferences. Each rigging type brings its unique set of advantages and limitations to the table, so finding the perfect fit might take some experimentation.

Remember: understanding how these different types influence your boat’s performance will not only enhance your sailing skills but also add excitement to each adventure on the water.

Happy smooth sailing with your newfound knowledge about sail rigging types!

Exploring the Pros and Cons of Sail Rigging Types: How to Choose the Right Setup for Your Needs

Title: Navigating the Seas of Sail Rigging: Weighing the Pros and Cons to Find Your Perfect Setup

Introduction: Setting sail on a mesmerizing voyage brings an unparalleled sense of freedom and exhilaration, but the success of your nautical adventure largely hinges on a crucial decision – choosing the right sail rigging setup. With a plethora of options available, it becomes vital to explore the pros and cons of sail rigging types in order to find the perfect fit for your specific needs. In this blog post, we will delve into the intricacies of various sail rigging types, providing you with detailed insights that will steer you towards making an informed choice.

Picture yourself standing at the helm while salty ocean breeze fills your lungs and gleaming waters extend as far as the eye can see. Now, imagine having complete control over how your vessel harnesses wind power to propel through these vast expanses. This is precisely where sail rigging comes into play – it ensures optimal utilization of wind energy through systematic arrangement and configuration of sails, masts, and supporting structures.

Anchoring Down: Understanding Key Sail Rigging Types

1. Bermuda Rig: Pros: – Efficiency: The Bermuda rig provides exceptional maneuverability due to its triangular shape which allows you to swiftly change course while maintaining stability. – Performance in varied conditions: Its versatility enables sailors to navigate efficiently across different wind speeds. – Ease of handling: The simplicity and user-friendly nature make it an ideal choice for both seasoned sailors and beginners alike.

Cons: – Limited sail area: Compared to other rigs like gaff or lug rigs, Bermuda rigs tend to have slightly smaller overall surface area which may impact speed in light winds. – Heightened stress on mast: The tall mast required by this type of rig increases bending forces when facing strong gusts or storms.

2. Gaff Rig: Pros: – Enhanced downwind performance: The large main gaff sail enables excellent downwind sailing, making it an ideal choice for cruisers seeking leisurely voyages. – Easy short-handed handling: With fewer sails to manage, the gaff rig is particularly advantageous for those who prefer solo or small crew sailing adventures. – Classic aesthetics: The timeless appeal of gaff rigs stands out from the crowd, inviting admiration from fellow sailors and onlookers alike.

Cons: – Limited upwind performance: Due to the relatively narrower sail area and lower aspect ratio compared to Bermuda rigs, gaff rigs may struggle when facing strong headwinds or sailing close to the wind. – Potential complexity in rigging: Setting up a proper gaff rig demands more time and meticulousness due to additional halyards and peak adjustments required.

3. Lug Rig: Pros: – Excellent adaptability: Lug rigs offer significant versatility as their sails can be easily set and adjusted according to varying wind conditions with minimal effort. – Broad range of applications: This type of rig is renowned for its robustness, making it a popular choice among dinghy sailors, coastal cruisers, and even historical vessels restoration enthusiasts. – Single-masted simplicity: Lug rigs often utilize a single mast arrangement that simplifies handling maneuvers, reducing any potential confusion during sailing operations.

Cons: – Suboptimal upwind performance: Similarly to gaff rigs, lug rigs may face limitations when attempting to sail efficiently upwind due to their narrower sail area. – Reduced speed potential: Despite providing stability in various conditions, lug rigs are generally not designed for maximizing speed over longer distances.

In your quest to find the perfect sail rigging setup tailored to your needs, understanding both the advantages and disadvantages associated with different types becomes paramount. From the nimble Bermuda rig ensuring swift course changes, through classic elegance offered by gaff rigging methods enabling relaxing jaunts on calm waters, to versatile lug setups favored by rugged adventurers – there exists a rigging choice that aligns with your sailing aspirations.

Remember, choosing the right sail rigging type involves considering factors such as intended usage, personal preferences, and the geographical locations you plan to explore. By navigating through this comprehensive analysis of the pros and cons outlined above, you will confidently chart a course towards seamless control, superior performance, and unbridled satisfaction on every voyage.

Step-by-Step Guide: Understanding the Basics of Sail Rigging Types

Are you curious about sail rigging types? Maybe you’ve heard some terms like sloop and ketch, but aren’t quite sure what they mean. Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered! In this step-by-step guide, we will take you through the basics of sail rigging types, helping to demystify these terms and give you a clearer understanding of how different sailing vessels are set up.

Step 1: First Things First – What is Sail Rigging? Before diving into the different rigging types, it’s important to understand what sail rigging actually refers to. In simple terms, sail rigging encompasses all the components and systems that support and control the sails on a boat or ship. These include masts, booms, stays (cables or ropes), and various other hardware.

Step 2: Sloop Rig – The Most Common Type The sloop rig is undoubtedly the most common type of sailboat rig out there. It features a single mast located towards the bow (front) of the vessel with a mainsail attached to it. Additionally, there is usually a smaller headsail called a jib or genoa at the front of the boat. This arrangement provides versatility and ease of handling for sailors in varying wind conditions.

Step 3: Ketch Rig – Double The Fun If you’re looking for a bit more complexity in your sail rigging setup, then let’s talk about ketch rigs. Ketch rigs feature two masts – a taller mainmast towards the center of the boat and a shorter mizzenmast towards its stern (back). This configuration adds an extra dimension to sailing as it allows for more independent adjustments between sails on each mast. Ketch rigs are often favored by those embarking on long-distance cruising voyages due to their ability to balance sails effectively.

Step 4: Schooner Rig – A Majestic Sight For those with a penchant for classic sailing vessels, the schooner rig is sure to capture your imagination. The schooner rig typically consists of two or more masts, with the forward mast (the foremast) being shorter than or equal in height to the aft mast (the mainmast). Schooners were historically used as fast cargo vessels, and their elegant rigs earned them a reputation for speed. Today, schooners are favored by enthusiasts who appreciate their unique aesthetic appeal.

Step 5: Cutter Rig – Versatility at Its Finest The cutter rig may not be as commonly known as the sloop or ketch rigs, but it certainly has its advantages. This configuration features a single mast located towards the bow with multiple headsails attached to it. Typically, cutters have two headsails – a jib/forestaysail and a staysail. These additional sails give cutters greater flexibility to adapt to various wind conditions, making them ideal for both racing and cruising purposes.

Step 6: Cat Rig – Simplified Sailing Last but not least, we have the cat rig – a straightforward and minimalist sail setup that is common on smaller sailboats. The cat rig features a single mast positioned near the bow of the boat and only one mainsail attached directly to it. Due to its simplicity, this rigging type is often preferred by novice sailors or those seeking an easy-to-handle setup.

In conclusion, understanding sail rigging types can greatly enhance your sailing experience and help you make informed decisions when choosing a vessel for your adventures on the water. Whether you opt for the versatility of a sloop rig or yearn for the majestic sight of a schooner rig, each configuration offers its own set of benefits and appeals to different types of sailors. So go out there, discover which sail rigging type suits you best, and let your sails take you wherever your love for sailing desires!

Frequently Asked Questions about Sail Rigging Types: All You Need to Know

Sailing is an art that requires attention to detail, skill, and knowledge of various elements such as sail rigging types. As a sailor or someone interested in the world of sailing, it is essential to familiarize yourself with the frequently asked questions about sail rigging types. In this blog post, we aim to provide you with detailed professional insights while maintaining a witty and clever tone.

1. What are the different types of sail rigging?

When it comes to sail rigging, there are several types commonly used in sailing vessels. The most common ones include sloop rig, ketch rig, schooner rig, cutter rig, catboat rig, and yawl rig. Each type has its distinctive features and advantages depending on factors like boat size, wind conditions, and intended use.

2. What is the sloop rigging type?

The sloop rig is the most popular one among cruising yachts due to its simplicity and versatility. It consists of a single mast located towards the bow (front) of the boat with only one head-sail called a jib or genoa ahead of the mast. The mainsail is attached aft (back) of the mast.

Imagine a sleek and elegant vessel cutting through the waters effortlessly – that’s precisely what you get with a sloop rigged yacht!

3. What about ketch rigs?

Ketch rigs feature two masts: one mainmast taller than the other called the mizzen mast located aft of the mainmast. This configuration allows for better weight distribution and more flexibility in sail handling by dividing sails between two masts.

Picture yourself aboard an impressive vessel gliding across calm seas while enjoying full control over your sails – that’s what makes a ketch rigged yacht stand out!

4. How does schooner rigging work?

Schooner rigs boast two or more masts where all but one are shorter than or equal in height to the foremast, creating a distinct and captivating appearance. The larger area of sail provided by multiple masts allows for increased speed, making schooners highly sought-after in sailing races.

If you dream of commanding a magnificent vessel with multiple sails majestically billowing in the wind as you traverse the open ocean, consider investing in a schooner rigged yacht!

5. What sets cutter rigs apart?

Cutter rigs feature a single mast set slightly further back than the sloop rig, along with two or more headsails attached to the forestay. This configuration grants sailors greater flexibility to adjust their sails based on changing weather conditions.

Imagine yourself skillfully tacking your yacht against strong winds while effortlessly adjusting your foresail configurations – that’s precisely what cutter rigging offers!

6. How do catboat rigs function?

Catboat rigs are known for their simplicity and ease of handling. They typically have a single mast mounted forward with a single large mainsail without any accompanying headsails or jibs. This type of rig is perfect for leisurely cruising and is often favored by novice sailors due to its straightforward setup.

Picture yourself aboard an adorable catboat smoothly gliding across calm waters, appreciating the simplicity and charm it offers – that’s what makes catboats stand out from the crowd!

7. What about yawl rigs?

Yawl rigs resemble ketch rigs but possess a shorter mizzen mast positioned aft near the stern (rear) of the boat. The smaller mizzen mast improves balance and control during tricky maneuvers such as heaving-to or sailing downwind while preventing excessive weather helm.

Imagine yourself confidently navigating through rough seas while maintaining optimal control over your maneuvering options – that’s where yawl rigging truly shines!

By now, you should have gained a comprehensive understanding of various sail rigging types frequently encountered in the thrilling world of sailing. Remember to choose your sail rigging wisely based on your vessel size, intended use, and desired sailing experience. Bon voyage!

A Beginner’s Journey into Sail Rigging Types: Where to Start and What to Expect

Have you ever dreamt of embarking on an exciting sailing adventure, feeling the wind in your hair and the thrill of being one with the open sea? If so, then understanding sail rigging types is an essential first step towards turning that dream into a reality. In this beginner’s guide, we will take you through the fascinating world of sail rigging, providing you with valuable insights on where to start and what to expect.

First and foremost, let’s unravel the enigma behind sail rigging. So, what exactly is sail rigging? In simple terms, it refers to the arrangement and positioning of sails on a boat or ship. While this may sound straightforward, there are numerous types of rigs out there – each catering to specific sailing conditions and personal preferences. Fear not! We’ll navigate you through these options.

One commonly adopted type of rig is known as the sloop rig. This traditional setup features a single mast located near the bow (front) of the boat along with a main sail at its aft (rear) end. Additionally, there may be a jib or genoa placed forward of the mast for better control. The sloop rig offers excellent versatility and ease of handling for beginners due to its simplicity.

For those seeking more excitement and challenge on their sailing journey, consider exploring catamarans or trimarans – vessels featuring multiple hulls connected by crossbeams. These boats often employ a variant called the fractional sloop rig which adds exhilaration with increased speed potential while maintaining relative ease in managing sails.

Another popular option is the ketch rig – notable for its two masts: one taller main mast towards the boat’s centerline and another smaller mizzen mast positioned further aft. This arrangement provides greater flexibility when it comes to distributing sail area for different wind conditions while also offering redundancy should any one mast or sail be compromised.

If you’re yearning for a touch of history and aesthetics, delving into the world of schooners might just be what your heart desires. Schooners boast an elegant rig featuring multiple masts – two or more – with both fore-and-aft sails (sails that run parallel to the boat’s centerline) and square-rigged sails (sails perpendicular to the centerline). Though it may require a more skilled hand, sailing on a schooner can transport you to a bygone era with its majestic charm.

Now that we’ve covered some popular sail rigging types, let’s discuss where to start as a beginner. As appealing as it may be to dive straight into more advanced setups like schooners, it’s crucial to first gain familiarity and confidence with simpler rigs such as sloops. Take your time to understand the basics of sail controls, wind direction awareness, and safety precautions before progressing towards more complex rigs.

When it comes to expectations, remember that learning sail rigging is not just about memorizing technicalities but also developing a deep connection with your vessel and nature itself. Sailing demands patience, adaptability, and an ability to read winds and waters intuitively. Embrace the challenges along your journey while keeping in mind that mistakes are part of the learning process – every experienced sailor has faced them at some point!

In conclusion, embarking on a beginner’s journey into sail rigging entails discovering various types of rigs suited for different purposes and preferences. Start by acquainting yourself with simpler setups like sloops before venturing into more intricate designs such as catamarans or historic schooners. Remember that progress takes time; focus on building foundational skills while embracing the joy and challenges sailing offers. So, hoist those sails high and set forth confidently into the vast ocean – adventure awaits!

Mastering Advanced Sail Rigging Techniques: Taking Your Sailing Experience to the Next Level

Are you ready to elevate your sailing skills and dive into the world of advanced sail rigging techniques? If you’re seeking to enhance your sailing experience with a touch of expertise, then look no further! In this blog post, we will explore the intricate realm of advanced sail rigging techniques that will undoubtedly take your passion for sailing to new heights. So grab a pen and paper, or bookmark this page, because you won’t want to miss out on these valuable insights.

Before we delve into the nitty-gritty details, let’s first understand what sail rigging entails. Sail rigging is the art of setting up and adjusting the sails on your boat in such a way that maximizes performance when catching those delightful winds. It involves an amalgamation of knowledge about different types of sails, their various components, and how they interact with each other in different wind conditions.

Now that we have established the importance of sail rigging let’s explore some advanced techniques that can set you apart from average sailors:

1. Fine-Tuning Your Mast Bend: The curve of your mast plays a crucial role in determining sail shape and overall performance. Knowing how to adjust this bend incrementally can optimize your boat’s speed and stability across varying wind strengths. By mastering mast bend adjustments using shroud tension or cunningham lines, you’ll harness every gust nature throws at you!

2. Perfecting Your Sail Twist: Achieving ideal twist in your sails can be a game-changer on the water. Adjusting the angle between the top and bottom sections of your sail enables controlled power distribution throughout its surface area. This technique allows you to maintain optimal balance while navigating unpredictable wind patterns, giving you an edge over other sailors struggling with less refined twists.

3. Utilizing Adjustable Tracks: Ever wished you could move your jib car forward or aft without hoisting it up the mast? Well, with adjustable tracks, you can! These clever inventions allow you to tweak your sail’s positioning effortlessly, adapting to various wind angles without compromising your boat’s balance. So say goodbye to inefficient sailing angles and hello to greater control!

4. Mastering Cunningham Controls: The cunningham is a powerful tool that regulates the tension along the luff of the sails. By skillfully manipulating this control line, you can flatten your sails during high winds or create depth for enhanced power in lighter breezes. Truly an advanced technique that adds finesse and versatility to your sailing repertoire.

5. Exploring New Sail Materials: Dacron may be tried and true, but have you ventured into the realm of exotic sail materials? With advancements in technology, innovative fabrics like carbon fiber or laminated materials offer superior strength-to-weight ratios and unbeatable performance gains. By experimenting with these new-age materials, you can unlock heightened speed potential while keeping your boat well-equipped for whatever Mother Nature throws at it.

Now that we’ve touched upon these advanced sail rigging techniques, remember that practice makes perfect! Experimentation and fine-tuning are vital components of mastering these skills. Don’t be afraid to reach out to experienced sailors or seek professional guidance in understanding these techniques better.

In conclusion, making strides from a proficient sailor to an extraordinary one involves exploring advanced sail rigging techniques meticulously. By adding these skills to your arsenal and implementing them effectively on the water, you’ll find yourself sailing circles around others who haven’t yet embraced these novel practices.

So gear up (pun intended), dive deep into masterful sail rigging methods – bending masts, twisting sails just right, utilizing adjustable tracks smartly – and let your newfound expertise take you on an exhilarating journey where average simply doesn’t exist!

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Cat Rigged Sailboat - Pros and Cons

• Thread starter catalanc
• Start date Nov 18, 2018
• Forums for All Owners
• Ask All Sailors

Hi Guys, I saw a Seaward cat rigged sail boat on Dillon lake a while ago. I sail single-handed most of the time and the lake can be very tricky with shifting wind direction and quickly changing speed. So, the cat sounds kinda interesting to me. Anyone out there have one and/or anyone have pros and cons of a cat rigged vs. a sloop rigged.  

catalanc said: Hi Guys, I saw a Seaward cat rigged sail boat on Dillon lake a while ago. I sail single-handed most of the time and the lake can be very tricky with shifting wind direction and quickly changing speed. So, the cat sounds kinda interesting to me. Anyone out there have one and/or anyone have pros and cons of a cat rigged vs. a sloop rigged. Click to expand

Since you are sailing Dillon Lake, I am guessing you saw one of the Sage boats made in Golden, CO. https://sagemarineblog.wordpress.com/2016/08/11/sailing-a-sage-15-cat/  

JohnShannon

Well a cat boat is super easy to sail. You only have 4 or 5 lines on the entire boat. Tacking is super easy. I bet one large sail is cheaper than a bunch of smaller sails. Performance wise? I expect a sloop outsails it, but I am not sure the difference is so dramatic. Most cat boats are relatively heavy and not exactly modern keel/rudder setups, and a little slow. Wyliecat 30 is light and modern underbody and is fast. For lake sailing and single handing I think a catboat is a good choice.  

A single mast cat rigged boat sails better than a sloop or a cutter under jib or main alone, but not better than either under proper sail. So, if you're not looking for sailing performance, but the ease of sailing instead, a catboat may well be a good choice.  

Hey, AFAIK, The pros and cons: Pros of a catboat: - Shallow draft - Easy to sail - just one sail, tack by just turning the wheel - tiller - Fast downwind with the large sail Cons of a catboat -Pointing ability - can't point high, don't go upwind well Barry  

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This slightly odd 30-footer, with its wishbone rig and catboat looks, is easily sailed and comfortable.

The Nonsuch 30 is an oddity. She is a fin keeled, spade ruddered boat with an unstayed wishbone cat rig. Weird.

She was built in Canada, whose main boatbuilding export has been C&C sailboats. Come to think of it, all her construction details look very much like those of C&C boats. This isn’t unusual, since George Hinterhoeller, the builder, was formerly the president of C&C, and one of the founders of the three company merger that created C&C Yachts.

When Hinterhoeller left C&C to recreate Hinterhoeller Yachts Ltd., he took with him those characteristics that have given C&C a reputation for quality: good attention to finish detail and high-quality balsa-cored hull construction.

The Nonsuch 30 is the concept of retired ocean racer Gordon Fisher, the design of Mark Ellis, and the created child of Hinterhoeller, who is one of the few production boatbuilders with the legitimate title Master Boatbuilder, earned the hard way through apprenticeship in Europe.

The Nonsuch 30 was originally a Great Lakes phenomenon, which is to be expected considering her origins. She proved quite popular elsewhere, however. This is not surprising considering the amount of boat that has somehow been slipped into an LOA of less than 31′.

Production of the Nonsuch line ceased in 1989.

Construction

George Hinterhoeller’s reputation as a builder is not unearned. His balsa-cored hulls are known for being light and strong. It is probably not an exaggeration to say that he knows as much about cored construction as any boatbuilder around.

Both hull and deck of the Nonsuch 30 are balsa cored. The hull and deck are joined by a through-bolted butyl-bedded joint capped with an aluminum toerail. The butyl tape used for this purpose has no real structural properties, but does create a good watertight seal. A sealant such as 3M 5200 provides equivalent sealant properties with greater structural properties, and we prefer its use in hull-to-deck joints. It is hard to quibble with the Nonsuch’s strongly through-bolted joint, however.

The external lead keel is bolted on with stainless steel bolts. These pass through floor timbers of unidirectional roving, transferring keel loading from the garboard section to a greater area of the hull.

The cockpit seats and coamings contain a surprisingly large number of sharply-radiused turns. Gelcoat cracks are likely to develop here earlier than anywhere else in the hull.

The freestanding mast requires modification of normal construction methods. While no chainplates are required, substantial bulkheading is required in the area of the mast to absorb the considerable forces generated by the unstayed mast. The forward six feet of the hull is strongly bulkheaded for this purpose, and no sign of undue strain could be detected.

Because there is no rigging to hold the mast in the boat should she capsize, alternative means must be found. This is accomplished by lagging a cast aluminum, hexagonally-shaped female mast step to the hull. The butt of the mast is fitted with a hexagonal male counterpart which is strongly joined to the mast step by stainless steel hex-head set screws. The mast is further connected to the hull by a deck-level pin which passes through the mast and the cast aluminum deck collar. Deck hardware is properly backed for load distribution.

There are a few surprising shortcomings. The aluminum rudder quadrant stops have sharp edges which could easily cut into the exhaust line inside the cockpit lockers. This could happen—it had happened on the boat we sailed—if the upper rudder retaining nut is loose, allowing the rudder to drop down slightly. Gate valves are used on most through hull fittings below the waterline, rather than seacocks or ball valves, and no valves at all are fitted on drains and exhaust lines at the bottom of the transom, despite the fact that they could be submerged in a heavily loaded boat.

Despite these deficiencies, construction is generally to very high standards, well above average for the industry.

Handling Under Sail

The Nonsuch 30 is one of the most boring boats we have ever sailed. Tacking requires no yelling, releasing of sheets, cranking, tailing, or trimming. The helmsman simply says “I think we’ll tack” and gives the wheel a quarter turn, being careful not to upset his Mt. Gay and tonic. Nonsuch quietly slides through about 85 degrees and settles on the other tack with a minimum of fuss. Beating up a narrow channel simply requires repeating the above process.

The person who learns to sail on a Nonsuch 30 will receive a rude awakening when switching to a more athletic boat—which means almost any other 30 foot sailboat. The Nonsuch 30 is simply one of the easiest boats to sail we’ve seen.

This doesn’t mean that it’s necessarily easy to sail well. Getting the most out of the boat upwind definitely requires some practice. The aluminum mast is quite flexible, allowing the top of the mast to fall off as the wind increases. The sail’s draft will shift, changing its efficiency. In about 10 knots of breeze, the top of the mast falls to leeward about a foot. This can be a little disconcerting to those used to a fairly rigid stayed mast.

Sail shape is controlled by the “choker,” a line which controls the fore and aft trim of the wishbone and functions as a clew outhaul. Tensioning the choker pulls the wishbone aft, flattening the sail. The sail is slab reefed pretty much the same as a conventional mainsail.

The Nonsuch mainsail is 540 square feet, with a hoist of 45 feet and a foot of 24 feet. By way of comparison the mainsail of the Irwin 52 is 525 square feet, and that of the Cal 31 210 square feet. The sail does not handle like a sail of 540 square feet, fortunately. The wishbone is rigged with permanent lazy jacks which hold the sail as it is dropped.

Furling merely involves putting ties around the neatly cradled sail for the sake of aesthetics. Dousing the main or reefing is easily accomplished by one person, as all of the sail controls lead back to the cockpit.

The Nonsuch does not suffer from “catboat disease”—the tendency to develop monstrous weather helm as the breeze pipes up. She is, rather, remarkably well mannered, with a surprisingly light helm in the light to moderate winds in which we sailed her. Downwind she held course with the wheel brake off and hands off the wheel. Her performance was almost as good upwind at moderate angles of heel.

She is a stiff boat. The flexible mast allows a substantial amount of air to be spilled from the main as the wind pipes up, removing much heeling force. We found that the boat went better upwind with a reef in the main even at moderate angles of heel once the upper mast began to fall off. Getting sail off the more flexible upper part of the mast allows better draft control as the wind increases.

Having only one sail can be a real nail-chewer to the uncured racer. Whether it blows five knots or 25, the maximum amount of sail you can have is already up. Some unreconstructed racers have equipped the Nonsuch 30 with a blooper for light air downwind performance.

The Nonsuch 30 is no Cape Cod catboat under the water. She has a moderate aspect ratio fin keel, low wetted surface, and a freestanding semi-balanced spade rudder. These characteristics greatly add to her performance.

With all sail controls led back to the cockpit, she is a natural candidate for singlehanding. We strongly recommend the optional self-tailing winches for all functions if shorthanded sailing is contemplated.

The Nonsuch 30 is not the boat for the hard-core grand prix racer. Her entire sail inventory consists of that one big sail, with perhaps, but not necessarily, a single downwind sail. You will not become the bosom buddy of any racing sailmaker by owning a Nonsuch. Then again, no sailmaker will ever have a second mortgage on your boat, either.

Handling Under Power

The Nonsuch 30 was originally equipped with a 23 horsepower Volvo MD 11C diesel with saildrive. This basically eliminated engine installation and alignment problems for the builder, saving both time and money.

These units have an integral cast zinc to protect the vulnerable aluminum lower unit from galvanic corrosion. A special Volvo-supplied zinc is required—not an item that you can pick up in any boatyard. About hull number 125, this installation was changed to a more conventional engine and shaft arrangement, utilizing a new 27 horsepower Westerbeke diesel.

Either engine will drive the boat to hull speed. We greatly prefer the conventional engine installation, which is understood and can be worked on by most boatyards. It is less vulnerable to corrosion, and runs quietly and smoothly.

Because of her high freeboard the Nonsuch 30 will be susceptible to crosswinds when docking. With most of her windage forward she will have a tendency to blow bow downwind. A good hand on the throttle and gearshift will be a real plus in tight docking situations. Without the complication of wind we found her easy to back down into a slip once a sharp burst of throttle was given to activate the folding prop with which our test boat was equipped.

Deck Layout

Because the Nonsuch 30 has no standing rigging, her side decks are devoid of obstacles. Because she has no headsails there are no sheeting angles to be concerned with.

For cruising the optional bowsprit/anchor roller with hawsepipe to the otherwise unusable forepeak is highly desirable. Otherwise, anchor and rode must be stored in one of the cockpit lockers and dragged forward every time you wish to anchor. We also recommend the installation of a bow pulpit. With no shrouds to hold when forward there is a great feeling of vulnerability on the bow. These things may make the Nonsuch 30 un-catboatlike in appearance, but they will greatly add to the safety and convenience of both sailing and anchoring.

The cockpit of the Nonsuch 30 is large and deep. It is not particularly comfortable, and without four inch or thicker cockpit cushions it is impossible for a person of average height to see forward over the cabin. The helmsman’s position is elevated above that of the other seats, but visibility even from that position is only fair.

With the standard white-on-white gelcoat scheme the cockpit of the Nonsuch 30 is sterile and generates a lot of glare on sunny days. The optional contrasting nonskid and teak cockpit grate alleviates part of this problem.

The large cockpit creates other problems. First, you should never raft up with other boats at anchor. A friendly crowd of eight could easily fit in the cockpit.

There are more serious problems associated with the cockpit design. The Nonsuch 30 is promoted as a “new offshore concept.” We think this is an unfortunate choice of words, because the standard cockpit is not suited to offshore use. There is no bridgedeck. The companionway goes almost to the level of the cockpit sole—about three feet below the level of the lowest point in the cockpit coamings. Coupled with the huge cockpit volume, this creates a situation that cannot in any good conscience be called an offshore configuration. If this boat is to be called an offshore sailboat, we think there should be an optional cockpit arrangement—a large bridgedeck which could incorporate life raft storage, two more large cockpit drains, and perhaps a raised cockpit sole to further reduce the cockpit’s volume.

There are three cockpit lockers; deep port and starboard lockers, and a lazarette propane locker set up to hold two ten-pound gas bottles. The large side locker should incorporate some form of easily-removed retainer system to prevent items there from rolling under the cockpit.

On the boat we sailed the drain line from the propane locker overboard was too long. At the low point in the loop water had collected in the hose, which exits through the transom and is underwater in many sailing conditions. This water prevents any propane leakage from draining overboard as designed. The hose should be shortened to remedy a potentially hazardous situation.

When tacking or jibing it is easy for the helmsman to get caught by the mainsheet as the boom comes over. A better lead would be welcome here, perhaps having the mainsheet system incorporated into the stern rail.

The interior volume of the Nonsuch 30 is an eye opener, even to those used to the modern trend toward maximum interior volume on minimum overall length. To anyone used only to the interior space of an older boat, the interior of the Nonsuch 30 is absolutely stunning.

The waterline and beam of the Nonsuch 30 are about the same as that of a modern 36 foot cruiser-racer, and that beam is carried quite a bit further forward. Coupled with high topsides and a highly-crowned deck house, this yields a boat with tremendous interior volume for her overall length.

The interior layout is unusual but practical. There is no forward cabin in the conventional sense. This isn’t a real drawback. The forward cabin on the typical 30 footer is only useful for sleeping or sail stowage, and frequently has berths which narrow so much forward that an all-night game of footsie for the occupants is a necessity rather than a pleasure.

The forwardmost six feet of the boat is given over to two huge hanging lockers and a great deal of storage space which has been created by the three transverse and two fore and aft bulkheads that stiffen the hull in the way of the mast. This storage space is not readily accessible, and will probably end up as the boat’s attic, collecting little-used piles of gear until the day when it must be all removed to get at the mast step to remove the mast.

The rest of the boat is basically one large cabin. What would be considered the main cabin occupies the forward third of the interior. At the forward end are the aforementioned hanging lockers and a bureau. There are shelves and bins outboard of the two long settees that face each other at a comfortable distance across the cabin, with a dropleaf table on centerline. Varnished pine ceiling behind the settees is a welcome note in an otherwise dark teak interior.

The galley is to port midships. The cook is out of the traffic flow yet located in the center of activity if there are people both below and topsides. The galley has a gimballed propane stove with oven, a well-insulated icebox with (hurrah!) an insulated, gasketed lid, and a deep sink nearly on centerline which will easily drain on either tack. The icebox melt water is pumped into the galley sink. For the sake of aesthetics the icebox drain should tee into the sink drain below the sink, relieving the cook of the dubious pleasure of watching the things which dribble to the bottom of the icebox flow through the sink.

The head is opposite the galley. Because of the pronounced deckhouse camber, headroom there decreases rapidly as you move outboard.

An unusual option was a demand propane-fired hot water heater. This compact unit mounts on a head bulkhead, and has electric ignition. When a hot water faucet is turned on the heater fires, and will heat steaming hot water as fast as the water pressure system will deliver it. This is much less complicated than the normal engine water heat exchanger/110 volt powered water heaters found on most boats. Since the boat is already plumbed for propane, installation of this heater is straightforward.

There are quarterberths port and starboard aft of the galley and head. The standard berth starboard is a double, with a single to port. An option provides doubles on both sides, although filling all the berths on the boat requires an open mind and no highlydeveloped sense of privacy.

Despite the open interior of the boat, privacy can be attained through another unusual interior option. A hidden slide-up partition can be installed between the galley and the forward/main cabin, and a bifold louvered teak door which folds up against the head bulkhead. When closed, the door and partition divide the boat into two large compartments for sleeping, with reasonable separation between them.

The occupants of the thus-created forward cabin must enter the aft cabin either to go on deck or to use the head, an inconvenience.

Like the cockpit, the huge interior invites company. In the event of a sudden rainstorm, the eight people who previously occupied your cockpit could easily move below to continue their revelry. If there were already eight below—a not unlikely circumstance—you may be in trouble. Sixteen people is too many belowdecks even in the Nonsuch 30.

Ventilation of the interior is excellent, with seven opening ports, two hatches, and two dorade boxes. The propane heater vents overboard through its own exhaust stack.

Conclusions

The Nonsuch 30 is an unusual boat by any standards. The unstayed wishbone cat rig is becoming increasingly popular. It does greatly reduce the cost of sails, spars, and rigging.

The general appearance of the boat is similar to a traditional catboat, although she will never be taken to be a product of the Crosby yard. Her generally catboatlike hull dimensions produce the maximum hull volume on a minimum overall length.

Despite her billing we do not consider her an offshore cruiser with her standard cockpit arrangement. She will make an excellent coastal cruiser for a couple or family with up to three small children or two older children.

Because she is easy to sail and rig, has a big cockpit and a roomy, well-ventilated interior, she should make a good Caribbean charter boat for two couples, although head access is a minor problem from the forward cabin. Surprisingly, none have entered the southern charter business.

The Nonsuch 30 is not a traditionalist’s catboat. She lacks the sweeping sheer, low freeboard, gaff rig, and barndoor rudder of the Cape Cod catboat. She also lacks that boat’s infamous sailing characteristics—ferocious weather helm, inability to go to windward, and a man-killing mainsail.

She is a relatively simple, easily sailed boat for the convivial sailor who doesn’t mind being seen in what many might consider an oddball boat with an oddball interior and an oddball rig, The more you look at it, the less oddball it seems.

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The official home of the Beetle Cat sailboat since 1921

A century of sailing.

The year 2021 marks the 100th anniversary of the Beetle Cat sailboat. This will make the Beetle Cat boat the oldest one design that has been continuously produced out of wood and continues to be competitively raced for the past 100 years.

Our Mission

The Beetle Cat boat shop is dedicated to preserving the art of traditional Plank-On-Frame wood boat construction, using the highest quality of materials and craftsmanship while providing a source for new wooden Beetle Cat sailboats. In addition, the shop offers a full service boat yard for the Beetle Cat community and Beetle Cat sailors for maintenance, repairs, paint, parts, storage, and transportation...

Quality Craftsmanship & Materials

A visit to the Beetle Cat boat shop is like a step back in time. The pleasant smell of cedar greets you as you walk thru the front door and into the office, which is lined with historic photos and memorabilia...

Our History

The Beetle Cat sailboat was named after the Beetle family of New Bedford, MA who originally designed and built the small 12 foot gaff rigged wooden sailboat for their children in 1921. Famous for their Beetle Whaleboats, they used some of the same mass production techniques that enabled them to build quality whaleboats in record times...

The Various Types of Sailboats and Rigs

 Aditya Adjie / EyeEm / Getty Images

The Modern Sloop

The most common type of small-to-midsize sailboat is the sloop. The rig is one mast and two sails. The mainsail is a tall, triangular sail mounted to the mast at its leading edge, with the foot of the sail along the boom, which extends aft from the mast. The sail in front called the jib or sometimes the headsail, mounts on the forestay between the bow and the masthead, with its trailing corner controlled by the jib sheet.

The Bermuda or Marconi Rig

These tall triangular sails are called the Bermuda rig, or sometimes the Marconi rig, named for their development more than two centuries ago in Bermudan boats. Because of the physics of how force is generated by wind blowing past a sail, tall thin sails generally have more power when the boat is sailing into the wind.

Racing Sloop

Gail Oskin / Getty Images

Here is another example of a sloop with a Bermuda rig. This is PUMA Ocean Racing's il Mostro, one of the fastest monohull sailboats in the world, in the 2008/2009 Volvo Ocean Race. The sails are much bigger than found on most cruising sailboats, but the general rig is the same. In both of the sloops shown so far, the jib reaches to the top of the masthead. These are sometimes called masthead sloops.

Fractional Sloop Rig

Ahunt [CC0] / Wikimedia Commons

Here, notice a small racing dinghy with a sloop rig. This is still a Bermuda rig, but the mainsail is proportionally larger and the jib smaller, for ease of handling and maximum power. Note that the top of the jib rises only a fraction of the distance to the masthead. Such a rig is called a fractional sloop.

KenWiedemann / Getty Images

While a sloop always has two sails, a cat-rigged boat generally has only one. The mast is positioned very far forward, almost at the bow, making room for a very long-footed mainsail. The mainsail of a cat rig may have a traditional boom or, as in this boat, a loose-footed mainsail attached at the aft corner to what is called a wishbone boom.

Compared to Bermuda Rigs

A primary advantage of a cat rig is the ease of sail handling, such as not having to deal with jib sheets when tacking. Generally, a cat rig is not considered as powerful as a Bermuda rig, however, and is more rarely used in modern boats.

Cat-Rigged Racing Dinghy

technotr / Getty Images

In this photo, there is another cat rig, which works well on small racing dinghies like this Laser. With a small boat and one sailor, a cat rig has the advantages of being simple to trim and very maneuverable when racing.​

John White Photos / Getty Images

A popular rig for midsize cruising boats is the ketch, which is like a sloop with a second, smaller mast set aft called the mizzenmast. The mizzen sail functions much like a second mainsail. A ketch carries about the same total square footage of sail area as a sloop of the equivalent size.

Make Sail Handling Easy

The primary advantages of a ketch are that each of the sails is usually somewhat smaller than on a sloop of equivalent size, making sail handling easier. Smaller sails are lighter, easier to hoist and trim and smaller to stow. Having three sails also allows for more flexible sail combinations. For example, with the wind at an intensity that a sloop might have to double-reef the main to reduce sail area, a ketch may sail very well under just jib and mizzen. This is popularly called sailing under “jib and jigger”—the jigger being an old square-rigger term for the aft-most mast flying a triangular sail.

While a ketch offers these advantages to cruisers, they may also be more expensive because of the added mast and sail. The sloop rig is also considered faster and is therefore used almost exclusively in racing sailboats.

Public Domain

A yawl is very similar to a ketch. The mizzenmast is usually smaller and sets farther aft, behind the rudder post, while in a ketch the mizzenmast is forward of the rudder post. Aside from this technical difference, the yawl and ketch rigs are similar and have similar advantages and disadvantages.

Tomás Fano [ CC BY-SA 2.0 ], via Wikimedia Commons

A typical schooner has two masts, and sometimes more, but the masts are positioned more forward in the boat. Unlike in a ketch or yawl, the forward mast is smaller than the aft mast (or sometimes the same size). One or more jibs may fly forward of the foremast.

Traditional Schooners

While some modern schooners may use triangular, Bermuda-like sails on one or both masts, traditional schooners like the one shown here have gaff-rigged sails. At the top of the sail is a short spar called the gaff, which allows the sail to extend back along a fourth side, gaining size over a triangular sail of the same height.

Gaff-rigged schooners are still seen in many areas and are well loved for their historic appearance and sweeping lines, but they are seldom used anymore for private cruising. The gaff rig is not as efficient as the Bermuda rig, and the rig is more complicated and requires more crew for sail handling.

Schooner With Topsail and Flying Jibs

  Print Collector   / Getty Images

Above is another gaff-rigged schooner that is using a topsail and several flying jibs. Tacking or gybing a complicated sail plan like this takes a lot of crew and expertise.

Square-Rigged Tall Ship

Bettmann  / Getty Images

In this illustration, notice a large three-masted square-rigger flying five tiers of square sails, several headsails, and a mizzen sail. Although this is a modern ship, one of many still used around the world for sail training and passenger cruise ships, the rig is essentially unchanged from centuries ago. Columbus, Magellan, and the other early sea explorers sailed in square-riggers.

Generating Power

Remarkably efficient sailing downwind or well off the wind, square sails do not generate power from their leading edge as in the Bermuda rig, which has become predominant in modern times. Thus, square-riggers generally do not sail upwind. It was due to this limitation that the great trade wind sailing routes around the world were developed centuries ago.

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• Sailboat Guide

2001 Philip Bolger Designed AS29 Sharpie Cat Yawl Rig

• Description

Seller's Description

Very unique Phil Bolger designed AS29 sharpie sailboat (cat yawl rig). It was fun completing Americas Great Loop and visiting our favorite places while we lived aboard Lollygag for five years but now were not using the boat. Live the good life with this once in a lifetime opportunity. Length: 29ft 6in. Beam: 8ft 5in (trailerable without permit, no trailer with boat). Draft: 1ft 1in (bilgeboards up). Hull is sound. Coppercoat epoxy bottom paint should have another five years of in-water use. Topsides need to be painted. Boat can be sailed or used as a low speed powerboat. If you want to sail, a new mainmast must be built. Mizzen mast OK, mizzensail needs to be replaced. Masts are mounted in tabernacles and fold down, mainmast lays aft, mizzen mast lays forward. AS29 uses port and starboard bilgeboards (like centerboard, but one on each side). The boat has been sitting on the hard for five years at Demopolis, Alabama.

Equipment: 15HP Nissan outboard engine (4 stroke, pull/electric start, less than 1000 hours). 6HP Nissan outboard engine (4 stroke, long shaft, less than 100 hours). Lewmar horizontal anchor windlass (Pro-Fish Pro Series 700). Magnum 2500W Inverter/Charger (charger portion not working). 840AH battery bank (4 x 210AH, batteries need to be replaced). Flexcharge battery charge controller (charge from engine, solar panels, wind generator at same time). 4 160W solar panels. Honda 2000EUI generator (less than 600 hours). Standard Horizon VHF radio GX-2150 w/AIS receiver, 2nd remote mic w/display. Garmin GPSmap 546s chartplotter/depth sounder (2 transducers, SD card with Canadian charts). Fortress FX-16 anchor. Fortress FX-23 anchor. Rocna 15kg anchor. SeaFrost refrigerated icebox. Airhead composting toilet. Queen size berth (standard queen size Tempurpedic mattress)

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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