yacht window repair

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to repair yacht hatches and windows

• Duncan Kent
• June 8, 2023

Leaky yacht hatches and windows can make life down below miserable. Duncan Kent explains how to ditch those drippy blues forever

Every boat I have ever owned has had at least one leaking window or hatch at some point and, from experience, no amount of temporary bodging has ever succeeded in fixing it for longer than a few days. In the end, the only way is to do it properly. Despite taking longer, there’s nothing better than knowing you’re leak-free when the skies open or a huge greenie comes rolling down the sidedeck.

Yacht window repairs

Scraping and back-filling will only last a short while, especially when the old sealant holding the glass in the frame has deteriorated beyond all recognition. The typical butyl sealant used for sealing glass into frames and frames to the cabin has a working life of around 20 years maximum. The first bit to go is usually the top strip, where the strong rays of the sun break down the butyl into a crumbly, powdered mess.

Adding sealant after a new hatch has been dropped into place and screwed down

No matter how experienced you might be at removing windows and hatches it always turns into a long, tedious job, so make sure you put aside a few days and do them one at a time to avoid having to tape tarps all over the boat.

If you do plan to remove them all at once, do mark all the components of each window and hatch with numbered tape (including any fixings) as it’s very likely they’ll all be a slightly different size or shape, so you don’t want to muddle them up. Also, mark the orientation of each frame so that it goes back in the same way, ensuring the mounting holes will line up.

Windows will be bedded into a frame which, though also sealed to the coachroof/deck at the end, will almost always be mechanically attached to the boat in some way. Although butyl sealant isn’t particularly adhesive, after 25 years you can guarantee it’ll be well stuck to the coachroof, and it’ll be much worse if someone has used an adhesive sealant on them!

The only way to remove them is by sheer hard graft unfortunately – sliding a sharp blade or sharpened paint stripper blade all around the seal (trying not to damage the boat) until enough of the old seal is broken to allow you to pull/push the window out.

Then a similar process has to be carried out on the frame to remove the glass or Perspex, whichever you have. The frame will usually be in two halves, joined by screws or clips with a backing plate, which will need to be cleaned up and resealed before reassembling.

One word of warning: the frames, commonly aluminium, often distort or even spring apart once you’ve removed the joiners, so it’s best to find a way to retain its shape (template or similar) so that it’ll slip easily back into place once you’ve sealed in the window. I’ve seen people make the mistake of sealing the pane into the frame and leaving it to go off before offering it up to the window aperture, only to find it no longer fits and they then have to either disassemble it all or start grinding out the aperture to match.

Once you’ve dismantled the window and hatch you must remove all trace of the old sealant and clean the frame and glass by rubbing alcohol or a similar non-oil-based product. Beware: some plastic panes, polycarbonate (such as Lexan) or acrylic, for instance, can be damaged when they come into contact with certain solvents, acetone or acids. All components must also be bone dry and solvent-free before you reseal them.

There’s a plethora of different types of adhesive and sealant available today but not all are suitable for every job. For instance, some of the well-known Sika brands of adhesive sealant will stick stuff together forever, which might sound great unless you need to change it a few years later and you have to chisel the component out of the GRP boat!

In rough seas any leaks in the windows will become all too apparent. All windows and hatches will need re-bedding sooner or later

Window and hatch glass is usually bedded in using butyl non-adhesive sealant as it will normally be held firmly in place by a frame, which in turn will be fixed to the boat using screws or bolts.

Butyl sealant is a mildly adhesive blend of butyl rubber and polyisobutylene. It is easy to apply and, remaining flexible, allows plenty of room for adjustment when the surfaces are mated together, unlike some quick-setting products.

In effect, it is used to simply create a waterproof, flexible gasket. Available in both cartridge form or as a tape, it is not unlike putty or chewing gum in feel and appearance, and is easier and far less messy than squirting sealant using a pump gun, although the latter is also available for other jobs.

One advantage of butyl is that it’s fairly easy to remove without the risk of surface damage at a later date, should it need redoing. The not-so-good news is it can be susceptible to UV damage, so in the case of some window areas that are regularly in full sun, it isn’t always the best solution.

An alternative product is silicone, which is an elastic, hybrid polymer. It has all the useful attributes of butyl sealant, while being UV and heat resistant too. Like butyl, silicone doesn’t have aggressive adhesive properties, so it’s important to only use it where there is some form of permanent physical support or fixture.

There are three seals for the opening hatch: the glass to the frame, the frame to the boat, and the rubber opening seal

Yacht window materials

Older boats often had tempered glass window and hatch panes, but these have since been widely superseded by lightweight, shatterproof plastic in most modern production yachts. The most common types used are polycarbonate or acrylic, available in a wide range of thicknesses.

One of the downsides of using plastic panes is that the material isn’t always very UV-resistant, particularly on older boats, leading them to craze over or discolour quite badly. There is no ‘cure’ for this unfortunately, you simply have to replace the panes with new.

Polycarbonate is a resin-based thermoplastic, which is so tough (around 250 times the breaking threshold of glass) that certain types are regularly used in the manufacture of bulletproof windows. It can, however, be scratched fairly easily and can discolour or craze over in constant direct sunlight.

The frames and aged sealant are removed, with old sealant carefully scraped off using a sharp chisel.

Acrylic plastic is part of the vinyl polymer family, also known as acrylates, or simply, acrylics. It is cheaper, less brittle and a little more UV-resistant than polycarbonate.

Neither, however, get on well with solvents, petroleum products such as WD40, or harsh cleaning fluids, preferring instead to be cleaned using warm water and mild washing-up liquid.

he screws were initially nipped up just a little over finger tight.

Both materials can be safely cut, drilled or heat formed into a curve with the correct equipment, although it isn’t that easy for a DIY’er. Frankly, though it’ll add a little to the cost, I would recommend having them pre-cut to fit.

Acrylic is more flexible than polycarbonate and therefore easier to form into shallow curves.

Fitting and resealing

If your pane fits into a U-shaped frame you’ll need to put rubber spacers between the frame and edges of the pane to ensure it is central in the frame and not chafing against it. These will remain in the frame. Then you’ll need similar spacers to ensure an even gap between the frame and pane is left on both sides to fill with sealant. Carry out a dry assembly run first to get the correct thickness of rubber spacers.

Sealant tape doesn’t work too well inside a U-shaped frame so it’s best to use a cartridge or putty knife to force the sealant into the gap, removing the side spacers as you go.

The frame itself can then be sealed to the hull using sealant tape. Clean the window surround thoroughly and then apply the tape to the hull, ensuring you lay tape all around each mounting screw hole as well. The frame should then be pushed gently back in place, lining the screw holes up, and then tightening the screws little by little, moving around the frame by opposing screws to ensure an even spread of the sealant. Do not overtighten the frame as the idea is to use the sealant as a gasket, not to squeeze all the sealant out of the sides!

Leave it a few days, if you can, before cleaning up any excess sealant from around the frames and make sure you don’t use cleaning products that are incompatible with the type of sealant you’ve chosen to use.

Yacht hatch repairs

Re-bedding the frame.

With hatches, the most common areas prone to leakage are the rubber gasket or the seal around the glass where it fits into the frame, so unless you know for sure that the base plate is leaking I’d leave it in place undisturbed. If you do need to remove and reseal the base it’s a good idea to put masking tape all around it before removing it.

This will make it easier to align the frame after applying the sealant, plus it will be in exactly the right place to protect the deck from sealant overspill when you come to replace the base frame, greatly facilitating the clean-up afterwards.

Carefully cutting through the old sealant around the window from below using a craft knife

To remove the base, you’ll have to either slide a sharp blade, paint scraper or a cheese wire around the existing sealant after removing any screws or bolts. You might even need to remove a trim piece or peel back the headlining a little if the nuts are concealed.

Butyl tape is the ideal solution for resealing hatch bases, although a liquid sealant will do just as well provided you carefully create a ring around each screw/bolt hole and ensure the bead of sealant is higher than any frame lip to ensure good contact with the glass.

Once the frame is in the correct position tighten up the screws/bolts just until the sealant starts to squeeze out, leaving it to be fully tightened later once it has cured. This prevents all the sealant being squeezed out by over-tightening the screws when the sealant is molten.

Re-bedding the glass

If it’s just the hatch gasket or the glass-to-frame bond that needs replacing then the base and top part of the hatch can usually be separated by unscrewing the hinges or just knocking out the hinge pin (it might need some penetrating fluid applied first).

On some older models hinge removal can be problematic and getting spare parts for things like knuckle hinges is now nigh on impossible. In which case it’s better to bite the bullet and remove the whole unit. Hatches with riser supports and/or manual clamps are usually simple to dismantle, allowing you to take the hatch top to the workbench to remove and replace the glass or acrylic more easily.

Remove the glass or acrylic by first cutting around the edge seal with a sharp knife. Remove as much of the old caulk as possible, which will make removing the glass easier. Prise the glass out carefully using one or more paint scrapers or something similar with a wide blade. Avoid screwdrivers as they can easily crack the glass.

Once removed, clean the frame and glass thoroughly with a solvent such as acetone, before re-bedding it onto butyl tape or sealant. After waiting for the sealant to dry, you need to caulk the remaining gap between the glass and frame. To make it an easy job to clean up afterwards, always run masking tape around both the glass and frame edges, leaving the gap to be caulked clear.

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Any yacht or boat owner knows that everything about their seafaring vessels is unique when compared to their counterparts on land. This applies to the windows and doors, especially. You can’t trust just any glass company to work on your yacht’s glass. When you need someone you can trust for your marine glass replacement needs, our pros at American Eagle Glass have years of experience installing and repairing glass on high-end yachts and boats.

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Yacht Window Replacement Vs. Repair

Are you unsure whether your marine window needs to be replaced or repaired? Either way, don’t try to DIY. Proper repair and installation can make all the difference for the longevity of your yacht’s windows, and trying to deal with broken glass on your own can be incredibly dangerous. A good rule of thumb is that a broken window needs to be replaced, while a leaking window can be repaired. If you’re still not sure, making a call to American Eagle Glass can answer all your questions.

Look out for these signs to determine whether you should contact American Eagle Glass:

The seal between the window frame and the fiberglass of the boat has broken

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How to Replace Boat Windows

If you have a boat, then you know the importance of maintaining it and keeping it in proper condition. For that to be possible, the windows need to be in a good condition too, which means that if you have old ones that are well past their time, you will have to replace them.

However, replacing your boat windows may prove to be harder than you thought. With some guidance, it can become less troublesome, though. So, are you ready to take off the boat cover and start working on replacing your boat windows? Here’s what you need to do.

Replacing Boat Windows – Steps to Go Through

1. remove the existing windows.

Clamp-style windows are the most common type you can see, as it’s a quite loved installation. Start removing the screws you find on the trim ring, and on the inside of the boat. This will allow the window to be pushed out of the opening when you use your force on it.

There’s usually sealant found under the window flange if you look from the outside of the vehicle, so you will have to release that too. Using a thin, putty knife, work on the outside of the boat, and around the flange you can find outside. Then, pick a window corner and make the flange loose. Once you do that, push the window’s corner out of the hole.

Take the window out of the hole carefully, and after doing so, get rid of any residual sealant you can find on the outside wall.

2. Start Measuring

Assuming you didn’t already buy the new windows, take the measurements for the window holes. What you need to know before doing this is that cleaning up the hole before measuring is a good idea. You don’t want anything to ruin the process and make you take the wrong measurements. Also, before doing so, try to find out if the original line drawings from the boat builder are still available. If the builder is still in business, you can simply make a call and find out.

If there’s none available or you’d rather measure yourself, start measuring the length and width of the holes so you know how big the windows you’ll buy should be. Double-check to ensure they’re accurate before you buy your new windows.

3. Fit the New Windows in the Opening

Once you have your new windows, it’s time to check out whether they fit in the exposed opening or not. If you have someone else around, you may want to ask for their help, as this part is a little difficult to do by yourself.

Insert the window in the opening to verify whether the new windows fit. The exterior window flange needs to overlap the opening in such a way that they form a good seal. Pay attention to that. Also, you should figure out if you will need shims or not. Shims are meant to center the window in the opening, so it’s important to know if you require them or not.

Now, remove the window in order to prepare it to be installed permanently.

4. Install the Window

It’s time to start the actual installation of the window. Have the windows lying on a flat and soft surface. Take the seal tape and apply it on the flange, by starting at the middle of the window’s bottom. You have to overlap the 2 ends by around ½ inch. Start pulling the backing off the tape.

Also, if you don’t want tape from sticking on the outer wall of the boat, you should use a spray water bottle and mist the opening’s perimeter. The window screen should be removed during installation, as this will make sure it’s not being damaged.

There are some screws coming with the window, and you should use them to fix the window to the opening. Don’t use other types of screws, especially longer ones, because you risk puncturing the frames and causing leaks.

Have another person holding the window in place as soon as you’re satisfied with the final position. You have to then center the clamp ring on the window’s inside part and then install the screws that were given with the products.

Now, you should just install the screen. Insert it into the screen track, and make sure to push and pivot it, so it’s into place. This will complete the installation.

Useful Tips to Remember

• Don’t rush. Installing new windows requires you to be careful and focused, so make sure there’s room for patience before anything else.
• Have someone else close by. You will need help, as installing windows for boats is not an easy task. Especially if your boat is bigger and has larger windows as a result, you’ll be thankful if someone is nearby to help.
• Only use high-quality tools. They have to be the right size for the job, so make sure you get them before the installation.
• Start with the easiest task first. If you have smaller windows in some areas of the boat, start with the smallest one and work your way up to the bigger ones.
• Don’t overdo it with applying force. Excessive force may result in damage and even injury, so even when you need to apply some force, don’t do it more than necessary.

Final Thoughts

Replacing your boat windows becomes a piece of cake as soon as you find out what to do. Follow these steps and tips and the process will be hassle-free.

About Peter Richardson

Peter Richardson decided that he needs to balance out the sedentary lifestyle of a software developer by getting out there more. He found passion in none other than – boats. This website represents everything he learned along the way. Finding the right equipment for your boat is no easy task, and that is what Peter’s articles aim to help you with.

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Essential Guide to Yacht Window Repair and Maintenance: Expert Tips and Techniques

Are you a proud yacht owner who wants to ensure that your vessel is always in top condition? One aspect of yacht maintenance that often gets overlooked is the repair and maintenance of yacht windows. Yacht windows play a crucial role in providing natural light, ventilation, and stunning views while cruising on the open waters. However, they are also subjected to constant exposure to harsh marine conditions, which can lead to damage and deterioration over time.

In this essential guide to yacht window repair and maintenance , we will provide you with expert tips and techniques to keep your yacht windows in pristine condition. Whether you have a motor yacht, a sailing yacht, or a superyacht, these pro techniques will help you extend the lifespan of your windows and ensure they continue to enhance the beauty and functionality of your vessel.

First and foremost, regular inspection is key to identifying any signs of damage or wear. Look out for cracks, scratches, leaks, or fogging on your yacht windows. Addressing these issues early can prevent further damage and save you from costly repairs down the line.

When it comes to cleaning yacht windows, avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive materials as they can damage the glass or the surrounding frame. Instead, opt for mild soapy water and a soft, non-abrasive cloth. Gently wipe the windows in a circular motion, ensuring all dirt and salt residue are removed.

Another important aspect of yacht window maintenance is lubrication. Regularly lubricate the hinges and tracks to ensure smooth operation. Use a marine-grade lubricant to protect against corrosion and promote longevity.

By following these expert tips and techniques for yacht window repair and maintenance , you can keep your yacht windows in excellent condition and enjoy clear views of the sea for years to come. Stay tuned for more in-depth articles on yacht maintenance and care !

Step-by-Step Guide to DIY Yacht Window Repair: Save Money and Time

Are you a yacht owner who is tired of spending a fortune on window repairs? Do you want to save both money and time by learning how to repair and maintain your yacht windows yourself? Look no further! In this step-by-step guide, we will walk you through the process of DIY yacht window repair, sharing pro techniques that will help you keep your windows in pristine condition without breaking the bank.

Yacht window repair and maintenance can be a daunting task, especially if you have limited knowledge and experience in this area. However, with the right guidance and a little bit of patience, you can easily tackle this project and achieve professional-looking results.

First and foremost, it is crucial to assess the condition of your yacht windows. Identify any cracks, chips, or other damages that need to be addressed. This will help you determine the scope of the repair and the materials you will need.

Next, gather all the necessary tools and materials for the repair. This may include safety goggles, gloves, a heat gun, epoxy resin, sandpaper, and a putty knife, among others. Having everything ready before you start will save you time and ensure a smoother repair process.

Once you have everything prepared, it’s time to begin the repair process. We will guide you through each step, from removing the damaged window to applying the epoxy resin and achieving a seamless finish. Our pro techniques will help you achieve professional-looking results, ensuring that your yacht windows are not only functional but also aesthetically pleasing.

Stay tuned for the next part of our guide, where we will dive into the specifics of each repair step and provide you with insider tips and tricks. Whether you are a seasoned yacht owner or a beginner in the world of yacht maintenance, this comprehensive guide will equip you with the knowledge and skills to tackle yacht window repair like a pro.

Proven Maintenance Techniques for Long-Lasting Yacht Windows: Expert Advice

Yacht windows are an essential feature of any luxury vessel . They not only provide breathtaking views of the surrounding waters but also contribute to the overall aesthetic appeal of the yacht. However, due to constant exposure to harsh marine conditions, yacht windows are prone to damage and wear. To ensure their longevity and keep them in optimal condition, it is crucial to follow proven maintenance techniques.

Regular Cleaning and Inspection: Yacht windows are constantly exposed to saltwater, UV rays, and debris. Regularly cleaning them with a mild, non-abrasive cleaner and inspecting for any signs of cracks or damage can help prevent further deterioration.

Protective Coatings: Applying a protective coating to yacht windows can help protect them from scratches, stains, and fading caused by the sun’s rays. These coatings also make it easier to clean the windows and maintain their clarity.

Proper Ventilation: Proper ventilation is essential to prevent condensation buildup on yacht windows. Installing ventilation systems or using dehumidifiers can help regulate the moisture levels inside the yacht, reducing the chances of windows fogging up or developing mold.

Sealant Inspection: The sealant around yacht windows plays a crucial role in preventing water leaks and structural damage. Regularly inspecting the sealant and addressing any signs of deterioration or gaps can ensure the windows remain watertight.

Professional Repairs: In case of any significant damage or cracks, it is advisable to seek professional yacht window repair services. These experts have the knowledge, experience, and tools to effectively repair or replace damaged windows, ensuring their long-lasting performance.

By following these proven maintenance techniques, yacht owners can extend the lifespan of their windows and enjoy unobstructed views for years to come. Remember, investing in regular maintenance and timely repairs is essential to preserve the beauty and functionality of your yacht’s windows.

Stay tuned for our next article, where we will dive deeper into the process of yacht window repair and maintenance, sharing expert tips and tricks to keep your windows in pristine condition.

Common Yacht Window Problems: How to Identify and Troubleshoot

Yachts are a symbol of luxury and elegance, designed to provide a seamless experience on the open waters. However, even the most well-maintained yachts can encounter window problems that can disrupt your journey. Identifying and troubleshooting these issues is crucial to ensure a smooth sailing experience. In this article, we will explore the common yacht window problems and provide expert techniques for repair and maintenance.

1. Leaks and Water Intrusion

One of the most common problems yacht owners face is water intrusion through the windows. This can lead to interior damage, including mold and mildew growth. Identifying the source of the leak is essential. Inspect the seals, gaskets, and caulking around the window frames for any signs of wear or damage. Replacing damaged components and applying a high-quality marine-grade sealant can effectively address this issue.

2. Foggy or Cloudy Windows

If you notice a foggy or cloudy appearance on your yacht windows, it indicates a problem with the seal between the glass panes. This can be caused by a broken seal or a buildup of moisture within the window unit. In such cases, professional repair or replacement is necessary to restore the clarity of the windows and maintain visibility.

3. Cracked or Shattered Windows

Yacht windows are exposed to various external forces, such as waves, debris, and extreme weather conditions. Cracks or shattered glass can jeopardize the structural integrity of the window and pose a safety risk. In such instances, immediate repair or replacement is crucial. Consult with a professional yacht window repair specialist to assess the damage and determine the best course of action.

Proper maintenance plays a vital role in preventing and addressing yacht window problems. Regularly inspecting the windows, cleaning them with mild soap and water, and applying a protective coating can extend their lifespan and minimize the risk of damage. Remember, maintaining clear and functional yacht windows ensures a safe and enjoyable boating experience.

Stay tuned for our next article, where we will delve deeper into advanced techniques for yacht window repair and maintenance. Discover innovative solutions to keep your windows in top shape and maximize your yachting adventures!

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• How to Repair Window Leaks

by David Pascoe

There are few problems that can cause more damage and detract from the value of your boat than window, porthole and hatch leaks. Even well constructed boats will eventually develop leaks simply because boats are not totally rigid structures.

In fact, they twist and flex quite a bit, and poorly constructed boats flex a lot, which is why we see so many entry-level boats that more or less just strain the water before it enters the interior.

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No surface remedy, black aluminum, removal of frames, what to look for, bedding glass, deck hatches.

• Windows, Windows, Those Leaking Windows
• Is Your Boat a Leaky Tiki?
• Dealing With Leaks

I am constantly amazed at the number of boats I see where the owner has simply smeared some caulking around the window frames of leaking windows. Let's start with the point that not only does this make a mess of your boat, but this a complete waste of time. When you develop leaking windows, ports or hatches, no surface remedy is going to solve the problem.

The leaks usually develop because the seal between the window frame and the fiberglass part of the boat has broken. The break in the seal can be so small that you can't even see it. This is because of the capillary effect, which draws water into the smallest of cracks and more or less acts as a water pump to keep bringing water in. Its also why water can enter at one point and be coming out somewhere else, perhaps two feet away from the source of the leak.

Most boats now have aluminum window frames, and which constitute the major source of leaks. This is usually not the fault of the frame, but of the poor design of the structure to which the frame is attached. Please see the " Windows, Windows, Those Leaky, Leaking Windows " essay for photos and a more detailed discussion of design. Many boats are so badly designed that no matter what you do, you're not going to be able to stop the leaks.

Before tackling the project, here's what to look for:

• The window frames are the only thing holding up the flying bridge.
• The side decks are weak, and when you walk on them, it pulls the deck and house side away from the window frame.
• Frame is not channelized, but consists of just the frame and glass clamped against the house side with screws.
• The window frames are black and you live in the south.

If you have a poorly designed boat where the window frames are holding up the flying bridge, or are very low to the side decks and the deck flexes when you walk on it, it is not likey that you can stop the leaks by recaulking the windows. This is a design problem that you're pretty much stuck with.

Black aluminum, anodized or painted, is a problem because aluminum is a great heat conductor, and when they heat up in the sun they expand and break the caulking seal, as well as helping to make the cauking brittle. To stop leaking, you have to use a non-hardening caulking so that the caulking can move with the expansion.

To deal with this problem, you have to remove the frames, rebed them and refasten them less tightly than they were previously installed. The reason is that if the frames are drawn very tight, they will squeeze all the caulking out and not allow any movement without breaking the caulking seal

In this case, its best to use one of the specially formulated non-hardening silicone epoxy compounds and use 3/32" shims to prevent the frame from being drawn completely flush, particularly along the top of the frame where most leaks develop.

Draw the frame tight against the shim - which is only inserted along the edges - and then let the bedding fully set before pulling the shims out. Once the caulking has fully set - say a week - then go back and retorque the fasteners just a little tighter. What you now have is a gasket against which the frame can be drawn up against.

This method works for all types of windows, including glass sandwiched between two pieces of wood. The trick here is to NOT initially draw the frame completely flush, thereby squeezing all the bedding out. If the frame starts to leak at a later date, you then have the opportunity to tighten it even further, whereas had all the bedding been squeezed out, retightening would have no effect because there's really no gasket in there.

You must completely remove the frames and clean all the mating surfaces thoroughly before applying the bedding. Use toluol or lacquer thinner or acetone to completely clean off all old bedding. Be sure to clean the fiberglass mating surfaces as well. If there is corrosion on the surface, you should sand it off completely as water will wick right through the aluminum oxides and defeat your efforts.

If you have water leaking under bedded glass, such as on a front windshield, the only way to fix this is to remove the glass and rebed. Don't even think about smearing caulking around it because that won't work. Besides, it is not particularly difficult to remove the glass and do it right.

After removing the glass, you also have to thoroughly clean the channel in the frame in which it sits. Most window channels will be full of crud and corrosion. If you do not get it perfectly clean, all your effort is likely to be wasted, so be sure to do a good job. Two people can reset three windshield lites in a half-day so its not a big job.

To reset the glass, use a silicone based window glazing SPECIFICALLY designed for this purpose. Do not use plain old silicone sealer. Clean the glass edges thoroughly with an alcohol based glass cleaner. Plain old Windex is fine.

What you're going to do is to apply the window bedding very heavily to the frame channel and then press the glass into place, squeezing out the excess that you will later trim away with a razor blade once it fully cures.

Don't attempt to smooth out the excess with your finger because you'll just make a mess of things. Yes, its going to look ugly at first, but the razor blade will trim it away as nice as can be.

Before setting the glass in place, you'll need a dozen 2mm or 3/32" shims for each pane of glass. The reason for this is the same as with window frames: you don't want your bedding to be too thin. Use any kind of stock sized material for the shims.

Before applying the bedding, set the glass back in the frame and shim it into the final position that it will be in when the job is finished. From the interior, now place the shims right along the very edges of the frame between frame and glass. You can either use tape, or silicone sealer to hold them in the exact location. Silicone will work best because they won't move, but you have to give the silicone time to set before installing.

After the shims are in place, pull the glass back out and apply the bedding. Then set the window back into the bedded frame.

Note: You can use this same procedure for rebedding leaking hatch frames, especially on decks that flex a bit. Use the 3/16" shims under the edges of the hatch to keep from squeezing all the caulking out when you tighten the screws.

After the caulking is fully cured, come back and retorque the screws. If the hatch ever starts leaking again, all you have to do is again retighten the screws and this should stop the leak. This is because you can continue to tighten the frame against the semi-soft caulking which is really now a gasket.

Now, place shims under the bottom edge of the glass from the exterior. We do not want the glass resting on the bottom of the frame because if the frame moves, it will also move the glass, so shim it up so the glass is approximately centered in the frame, not touching on any side.

Allow the bedding to set up overnight before you go back and apply the final glazing to the exterior. If there are snap-in exterior moldings, wait a day before putting those back in so that you don't disturb the positioning.

After the bedding has cured, you can now trim the excess on the interior, or finish with the exterior glazing. To trim, hold the razon blade at an angle about 30 degrees off of vertical and cut at this angle all the way around.

Then finish up by trimming the horizontal surface, separating the bedding from the glass just up to the point of the vertical cut. Have a supply of blades because the glass will dull them quickly and they will not cut cleanly when dull.

If you do not have exterior moldings to install, use your bedding to finish up the glazing. To get a nice smooth surface, use a NEW chrome plated putty knife sprayed with silicone to prevent sticking. Don't try to remove all the excess, just get the glazing part smooth. You can trim the excess with a razor after it sets, which is very easy to do.

Viola! You're finished.

The Result:

What you have done here is to create sort of a free-floating window pane. The soft bedding will allow considerable movement without breaking the seal so that future leakage will be eliminated, or at least greatly reduced.

This method works not only for windows, but for portholes and deck hatches as well, or any place a more rigid frame is mounted to a flexing hull or deck surface.

Note: Most windows have a two-part frame, the outer frame which is the major part, and the inner which is more or less just a trim bezel. Even so, that trim bezel probably plays a major role in the sealing process, so the inner part needs to be removed and rebedded as well.

However, you don't need to shim it when reinstalling. When drawing up the screws, don't pull them real tight, just draw it up within about a 1/16" until the bedding sets. Then go back and retorque the fasteners to make it a little tighter.

Usually leak because the deck flexes somewhat, breaking the caulking seal. The remedy for this - as long as the deck doesn't flex too much - is the same as for the window glass described above.

Again, the trick is to make the bedding layer thick enough so that it can be torqued down like a gasket. Pulling that hatch frame down tight was what created the problem in the first place, so once again use shims on the preliminary reinstallation. Then go back and retorque after the bedding cures.

Tinted Lexan against a black surface:

This is a combination that will never stop leaking in Florida or the Gulf coast simply because the black absorbs too much heat from the sun and the rate of expansion is too high to permit a seal. The only solution is DON'T USE BLACK MATERIALS.

David Pascoe - Biography

David Pascoe is a second generation marine surveyor in his family who began his surveying career at age 16 as an apprentice in 1965 as the era of wooden boats was drawing to a close.

Certified by the National Association of Marine Surveyors in 1972, he has conducted over 5,000 pre purchase surveys in addition to having conducted hundreds of boating accident investigations, including fires, sinkings, hull failures and machinery failure analysis.

Over forty years of knowledge and experience are brought to bear in following books. David Pascoe is the author of:

• " Mid Size Power Boats " (2003)
• " Buyers’ Guide to Outboard Boats " (2002)
• " Surveying Fiberglass Power Boats " (2001, 2nd Edition - 2005)
• " Marine Investigations " (2004).

In addition to readers in the United States, boaters and boat industry professionals worldwide from nearly 80 countries have purchased David Pascoe's books, since introduction of his first book in 2001.

In 2012, David Pascoe has retired from marine surveying business at age 65.

On November 23rd, 2018, David Pascoe has passed away at age 71.

Biography - Long version

Maintenance, Repair Articles At A Glance

• All about Bilge Pumps
• Attaching Hardware to Your Boat
• Battery Basics
• Corrosion in Marinas
• Diesel Maintenance, Or Lack of It
• Electronics Outside
• Haul Out Basics
• How to Install an Aluminum Fuel Tank
• How to Prevent Your Boat from Sinking
• Tips on Electrical System Use and Maintenance
• Maintaining Stern Drives
• Maintenance Fundamentals Part I : Engines
• Myth of Condensation in Fuel Tanks, The
• Preventing Rot in Encapsulated Wood Structures
• Repairing Diaphragm Pumps
• Repairing Rotary Vane Pumps
• Solving Chronic Battery Problems
• Tips on Painting Fiberglass Boats
• Winter Lay Up
• Washing Down
• From Other Category
• Exhaust Risers (from Buying a Boat Cat.)

• What is Pre-Purchase Survey?
• Business Practices and Client Relations
• Sound vs. Seaworthiness
• Hull and Its Structure
• Surveying the Hull
• Using Moisture Meters
• Stress Cracks & Surface Irregularities
• Deck & Superstructure
• Drive Train
• Gas Engines
• Fuel Systems
• Exhaust Systems
• Electrical Systems
• Plumbing Systems

• The Marine Investigator Read Online Full Chapter 1
• The Nature of Investigations
• The Nature of Evidence
• Marine Insurance and Issues of Law
• Bilge Pumps & Batteries
• Finding the Leak
• Sinking Due To Rain
• Fire Investigations
• Machinery Failure Analysis
• Fraud Investigations
• Interrogation Techniques
• Deposition & Court Testimony

Published by: D. H. Pascoe & Co., Inc. Articles, Images: Copyright © 1997 - 2018 David H. Pascoe All rights reserved. Articles, Images: Copyright © 2019-2022 Junko A. Pascoe All rights reserved. Web site design & developement: Copyright © 1997 - 2023 Junko A. Pascoe All rights reserved. Web site: Maintained by Junko A. Pascoe

• Description
• Testimonials

Welcome to Waterway Systems

Marine windows,  boat windshields, center console windscreens.  .

 Marine Windows,  Boat Windshields, Center Console Windscreens.  Custom manufactured for your restoration or new boatbuilding project.

Building quality marine windows for private and commercial fishing vessel, houseboat, specialty barge, ships, and yachts..

Since 1977 Waterway Systems has been engineering and manufacturing the finest window units available.

Fabricated in Florida, shipped USA and Internationally.

Custom Acrylic / Plexiglass Parts.  Center Console Windscreens, Dash Panels, Livewell Lids, Flybridge Windscreens, Hatches.  CNC Plastic Machining

Waterway Systems

7010 28th ST CT E

Sarasota, FL 34243

941-779-4709

[email protected]

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Visit Us On Instagram @Maritech_Industries Or Click The Link Below!

Custom Marine Windows & 

Plastics Forming

!! Removable Windows Now Available !!

The development of fiberglass boats has freed the yachtsman of much of the care and maintenance previously required for his yacht. Improvements in the development of marine windows reflect the same advancement. Go industries, founded in 1971 then acquired by Maritech in 2023, is the foremost manufacturer of high-quality, vinyl framed marine windows. With a commitment to offer carefree maintenance, quality, non-corrosive materials and ease of installation, Maritech Industries strives to serve all their customers by producing not only standard, but also custom built marine windows. We are looking for pictures of our windows in your sail or power boat. If you would like them featured on our website, please email them to [email protected] with a brief description of the vessel!

Unique patented design.

Maritech windows are manufactured using a white, high impact weather resistant vinyl plastic frame. Rigid vinyl can withstand most chemicals that are used by a yachtsman on his boat, including paint thinner and acetone. The vinyl frame, when used with plastic panes, will conform easily to curved cabin sides. The most important advantage of all is no corrosion.

EASY TO INSTALL

Installation of maritech windows was designed with the yacht owner in mind. the windows install using the “clamp” method as illustrated in the drawings below. both the outer frame, which holds the pane material, and the inner trim ring come pre-drilled and the necessary stainless fastening screws are provided. after the old windows are removed, and the cabin side is cleaned of all impurities, simply apply a quality sealing compound to the inside of the exterior frame and place the window in the cut-out. the interior trim ring is then screwed in place and the installation is complete..

Four Basic Types

Fixed - Maritech Industries has the capability to manufacture almost any shape or size window.  Fixed windows are available with our standard heavy duty frame.  The standard frame can have a 1 -1/2", 1- 7/8", 2-1/2", 3", 4" and/or 6" corner radius as well as mitered corners. The heavy duty frame is available with a 2-1/2” or 4-1/2” radius, or with mitered corners.

Sliding -Sliding windows have a number of unique features that are available only with Maritech windows. With plastic pane windows (Lucite S.A.R.), the handle used to slide the window open and closed are glued as well as screwed on to assure that they will not come off. Large drain holes are provided on the outside.  Plus a “splash guard” , which is clear plastic strip , is glued on the inside. These two features work together to make Maritech sliding windows one of the most leak-proof windows available.  Standard frame sliding windows come in 1-7/8” , 2-1/2" , 3” or 4"radius, and/or mitered corners.  Heavy frame sliding windows are available with a 2-1/2” or 4-1/2” radius, or mitered corners. 

Custom radiuses are available upon request.

Hinged - Ventilation has always been a problem on most power boats. Maritech Industries has the answer to this in the form of a hinged windshield.  Like all Maritech windows, the hinged window can be made to almost any shape or size with the use of our unique vinyl frame. All hinged windows use high quality stainless steel wind-shield adjusters to hold the hinged pane open in any position. When closed, screw down dogs are used to make a water-tight seal.

!   NEW  RELEASE   !  

Removeable - We are currently working with USCG to satisfy new egress requirements for inspected vessels. In most cases we are able to make either a sliding, hinged or removable window with latches or tension knobs in place of an existing fixed window! Contact us for more info!

Removable with latch handle

Removable with tension knobs

Choice Of Pane Material

Maritech windows can be made with panes of plexiglass, Lucite S.A.R. (super abrasion resistant), tempered glass, or upon special request, Lexan Margard.  All are avail-able in various tint colors as well as clear.  One of our design engineers can assist in the pane and thickness choice best for your particular needs.

Many Standard Configurations

Since Maritech windows have been the choice of various manufacturers as standard equipment, we have many production patterns in stock.  When requesting a quotation, please give us the boat type and length as well as the “block” dimensions so that we can check your windows against our patterns. Because Maritech Industries makes windows as they are ordered, changing the size of your existing windows can be done at little to no extra cost.

Very friendly and informative , estimate and turn around time were exactly as they said, after sending a template , the two windows i ordered installed effortlessly and fit perfectly, I should also mention pricing was more reasonable than 4 other manufactures i spoke with for same product

Cannot believe anyone has not yelped this business yet.  I have an old US Yachts boat.  The original window maker went out of business but somehow that business found its way to Mark Plastics. I dealt directly with Mark  I had just a small single window but you would have thought I was placing a huge order.  Mark spent a ton of time with me on the phone, walked me through what he needed and built me a replacement boat window within a week. Absolutely fabulous and a big shoutout to San Francisco Boat Works for steering me to Mark Plastics.

Mark at Mark Plastics is great! I'm about to place my third order with him, which will be the final batch needed to replace all ports in my old 1976 Islander 36. The new ports were a perfect fit, which was a big relief as I had to lug them on an international flight. Mark's office is low-tech - best to call and leave a message. He always calls back.

Love the new windows and nice to be able to see through the windows now! (old plastic window were crazed and with the sun on them it was like having shades pulled down)! The color tint is perfect! The windows went in easy with just a bit of trimming! The opening galley window sure helps remove the moisture while cooking. Many Thanks for a job well done!! Duane Sheehan

December 2023

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Check out Moscow’s NEW electric river trams (PHOTOS)

Water transportation has become another sector for the eco-friendly improvements the Moscow government is implementing. And it means business. On July 15, 2021, on the dock of Moscow’s ‘Zaryadye’ park, mayor Sergey Sobyanin was shown the first model of the upcoming river cruise boat.

The model of the electrical boat with panoramic windows measures 22 meters in length. The river tram - as Muscovites call them - has a passenger capacity of 42, including two disabled seats. The trams will also get cutting edge info panels, USB docking stations, Wi-Fi, spaces for scooters and bicycles, as well as chairs and desks for working on the go. The boats will be available all year round, according to ‘Mosgortrans’, the regional transport agency. 

Passengers will be able to pay with their ‘Troika’ public transport card, credit cards or bank cards. 

The main clientele targeted are people living in Moscow’s river districts - the upcoming trams will shorten their travel time in comparison to buses and other transportation by five times, Mosgortrans stated. 

As the river trams are being rolled out, Moscow docks will also see mini-stations, some of which will also be outfitted with charging docks for speed-charging the boats.  

Moscow is set to announce the start of the tender for construction and supply in September 2021. The first trams are scheduled to launch in June 2022 on two routes - from Kievskaya Station, through Moscow City, into Fili; and from ZIL to Pechatniki. 

“Two full-scale routes will be created in 2022-2023, serviced by 20 river trams and a number of river stations. We’ll continue to develop them further if they prove to be popular with the citizens,” the Moscow mayor said .

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