yacht window repair

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to repair yacht hatches and windows

• Duncan Kent
• June 8, 2023

Leaky yacht hatches and windows can make life down below miserable. Duncan Kent explains how to ditch those drippy blues forever

Every boat I have ever owned has had at least one leaking window or hatch at some point and, from experience, no amount of temporary bodging has ever succeeded in fixing it for longer than a few days. In the end, the only way is to do it properly. Despite taking longer, there’s nothing better than knowing you’re leak-free when the skies open or a huge greenie comes rolling down the sidedeck.

Yacht window repairs

Scraping and back-filling will only last a short while, especially when the old sealant holding the glass in the frame has deteriorated beyond all recognition. The typical butyl sealant used for sealing glass into frames and frames to the cabin has a working life of around 20 years maximum. The first bit to go is usually the top strip, where the strong rays of the sun break down the butyl into a crumbly, powdered mess.

Adding sealant after a new hatch has been dropped into place and screwed down

No matter how experienced you might be at removing windows and hatches it always turns into a long, tedious job, so make sure you put aside a few days and do them one at a time to avoid having to tape tarps all over the boat.

If you do plan to remove them all at once, do mark all the components of each window and hatch with numbered tape (including any fixings) as it’s very likely they’ll all be a slightly different size or shape, so you don’t want to muddle them up. Also, mark the orientation of each frame so that it goes back in the same way, ensuring the mounting holes will line up.

Windows will be bedded into a frame which, though also sealed to the coachroof/deck at the end, will almost always be mechanically attached to the boat in some way. Although butyl sealant isn’t particularly adhesive, after 25 years you can guarantee it’ll be well stuck to the coachroof, and it’ll be much worse if someone has used an adhesive sealant on them!

The only way to remove them is by sheer hard graft unfortunately – sliding a sharp blade or sharpened paint stripper blade all around the seal (trying not to damage the boat) until enough of the old seal is broken to allow you to pull/push the window out.

Then a similar process has to be carried out on the frame to remove the glass or Perspex, whichever you have. The frame will usually be in two halves, joined by screws or clips with a backing plate, which will need to be cleaned up and resealed before reassembling.

One word of warning: the frames, commonly aluminium, often distort or even spring apart once you’ve removed the joiners, so it’s best to find a way to retain its shape (template or similar) so that it’ll slip easily back into place once you’ve sealed in the window. I’ve seen people make the mistake of sealing the pane into the frame and leaving it to go off before offering it up to the window aperture, only to find it no longer fits and they then have to either disassemble it all or start grinding out the aperture to match.

Once you’ve dismantled the window and hatch you must remove all trace of the old sealant and clean the frame and glass by rubbing alcohol or a similar non-oil-based product. Beware: some plastic panes, polycarbonate (such as Lexan) or acrylic, for instance, can be damaged when they come into contact with certain solvents, acetone or acids. All components must also be bone dry and solvent-free before you reseal them.

There’s a plethora of different types of adhesive and sealant available today but not all are suitable for every job. For instance, some of the well-known Sika brands of adhesive sealant will stick stuff together forever, which might sound great unless you need to change it a few years later and you have to chisel the component out of the GRP boat!

In rough seas any leaks in the windows will become all too apparent. All windows and hatches will need re-bedding sooner or later

Window and hatch glass is usually bedded in using butyl non-adhesive sealant as it will normally be held firmly in place by a frame, which in turn will be fixed to the boat using screws or bolts.

Butyl sealant is a mildly adhesive blend of butyl rubber and polyisobutylene. It is easy to apply and, remaining flexible, allows plenty of room for adjustment when the surfaces are mated together, unlike some quick-setting products.

In effect, it is used to simply create a waterproof, flexible gasket. Available in both cartridge form or as a tape, it is not unlike putty or chewing gum in feel and appearance, and is easier and far less messy than squirting sealant using a pump gun, although the latter is also available for other jobs.

One advantage of butyl is that it’s fairly easy to remove without the risk of surface damage at a later date, should it need redoing. The not-so-good news is it can be susceptible to UV damage, so in the case of some window areas that are regularly in full sun, it isn’t always the best solution.

An alternative product is silicone, which is an elastic, hybrid polymer. It has all the useful attributes of butyl sealant, while being UV and heat resistant too. Like butyl, silicone doesn’t have aggressive adhesive properties, so it’s important to only use it where there is some form of permanent physical support or fixture.

There are three seals for the opening hatch: the glass to the frame, the frame to the boat, and the rubber opening seal

Yacht window materials

Older boats often had tempered glass window and hatch panes, but these have since been widely superseded by lightweight, shatterproof plastic in most modern production yachts. The most common types used are polycarbonate or acrylic, available in a wide range of thicknesses.

One of the downsides of using plastic panes is that the material isn’t always very UV-resistant, particularly on older boats, leading them to craze over or discolour quite badly. There is no ‘cure’ for this unfortunately, you simply have to replace the panes with new.

Polycarbonate is a resin-based thermoplastic, which is so tough (around 250 times the breaking threshold of glass) that certain types are regularly used in the manufacture of bulletproof windows. It can, however, be scratched fairly easily and can discolour or craze over in constant direct sunlight.

The frames and aged sealant are removed, with old sealant carefully scraped off using a sharp chisel.

Acrylic plastic is part of the vinyl polymer family, also known as acrylates, or simply, acrylics. It is cheaper, less brittle and a little more UV-resistant than polycarbonate.

Neither, however, get on well with solvents, petroleum products such as WD40, or harsh cleaning fluids, preferring instead to be cleaned using warm water and mild washing-up liquid.

he screws were initially nipped up just a little over finger tight.

Both materials can be safely cut, drilled or heat formed into a curve with the correct equipment, although it isn’t that easy for a DIY’er. Frankly, though it’ll add a little to the cost, I would recommend having them pre-cut to fit.

Acrylic is more flexible than polycarbonate and therefore easier to form into shallow curves.

Fitting and resealing

If your pane fits into a U-shaped frame you’ll need to put rubber spacers between the frame and edges of the pane to ensure it is central in the frame and not chafing against it. These will remain in the frame. Then you’ll need similar spacers to ensure an even gap between the frame and pane is left on both sides to fill with sealant. Carry out a dry assembly run first to get the correct thickness of rubber spacers.

Sealant tape doesn’t work too well inside a U-shaped frame so it’s best to use a cartridge or putty knife to force the sealant into the gap, removing the side spacers as you go.

The frame itself can then be sealed to the hull using sealant tape. Clean the window surround thoroughly and then apply the tape to the hull, ensuring you lay tape all around each mounting screw hole as well. The frame should then be pushed gently back in place, lining the screw holes up, and then tightening the screws little by little, moving around the frame by opposing screws to ensure an even spread of the sealant. Do not overtighten the frame as the idea is to use the sealant as a gasket, not to squeeze all the sealant out of the sides!

Leave it a few days, if you can, before cleaning up any excess sealant from around the frames and make sure you don’t use cleaning products that are incompatible with the type of sealant you’ve chosen to use.

Yacht hatch repairs

Re-bedding the frame.

With hatches, the most common areas prone to leakage are the rubber gasket or the seal around the glass where it fits into the frame, so unless you know for sure that the base plate is leaking I’d leave it in place undisturbed. If you do need to remove and reseal the base it’s a good idea to put masking tape all around it before removing it.

This will make it easier to align the frame after applying the sealant, plus it will be in exactly the right place to protect the deck from sealant overspill when you come to replace the base frame, greatly facilitating the clean-up afterwards.

Carefully cutting through the old sealant around the window from below using a craft knife

To remove the base, you’ll have to either slide a sharp blade, paint scraper or a cheese wire around the existing sealant after removing any screws or bolts. You might even need to remove a trim piece or peel back the headlining a little if the nuts are concealed.

Butyl tape is the ideal solution for resealing hatch bases, although a liquid sealant will do just as well provided you carefully create a ring around each screw/bolt hole and ensure the bead of sealant is higher than any frame lip to ensure good contact with the glass.

Once the frame is in the correct position tighten up the screws/bolts just until the sealant starts to squeeze out, leaving it to be fully tightened later once it has cured. This prevents all the sealant being squeezed out by over-tightening the screws when the sealant is molten.

Re-bedding the glass

If it’s just the hatch gasket or the glass-to-frame bond that needs replacing then the base and top part of the hatch can usually be separated by unscrewing the hinges or just knocking out the hinge pin (it might need some penetrating fluid applied first).

On some older models hinge removal can be problematic and getting spare parts for things like knuckle hinges is now nigh on impossible. In which case it’s better to bite the bullet and remove the whole unit. Hatches with riser supports and/or manual clamps are usually simple to dismantle, allowing you to take the hatch top to the workbench to remove and replace the glass or acrylic more easily.

Remove the glass or acrylic by first cutting around the edge seal with a sharp knife. Remove as much of the old caulk as possible, which will make removing the glass easier. Prise the glass out carefully using one or more paint scrapers or something similar with a wide blade. Avoid screwdrivers as they can easily crack the glass.

Once removed, clean the frame and glass thoroughly with a solvent such as acetone, before re-bedding it onto butyl tape or sealant. After waiting for the sealant to dry, you need to caulk the remaining gap between the glass and frame. To make it an easy job to clean up afterwards, always run masking tape around both the glass and frame edges, leaving the gap to be caulked clear.

Enjoyed reading this?

A subscription to Yachting Monthly magazine costs around 40% less than the cover price .

Print and digital editions are available through Magazines Direct – where you can also find the latest deals .

YM is packed with information to help you get the most from your time on the water.

• Take your seamanship to the next level with tips, advice and skills from our experts
• Impartial in-depth reviews of the latest yachts and equipment
• Cruising guides to help you reach those dream destinations

Follow us on Facebook , Twitter and Instagram.

• David Pascoe
• All Articles (over 180)
• Mid Size Power Boats
• Buyers' Guide to Outboard Boats
• Surveying Fiberglass Power Boats (2E)
• Marine Investigations
• Domestic (USA)
• International
• Privacy Policy
• All Articles
• Order Books

• Boat Reviews
• Buying a Boat
• Cores & Structural Issues
• Marine Engines
• Maintenance & Repairs
• Hull Blisters
• Marine Surveying
• Insurance Issues
• Boat Handling & Boat Safety
• Hurricane Preparations
• Fuel Issues

Read Online

Full Chapter One

• How to Repair Window Leaks

by David Pascoe

There are few problems that can cause more damage and detract from the value of your boat than window, porthole and hatch leaks. Even well constructed boats will eventually develop leaks simply because boats are not totally rigid structures.

In fact, they twist and flex quite a bit, and poorly constructed boats flex a lot, which is why we see so many entry-level boats that more or less just strain the water before it enters the interior.

Table of Contents - Show/Hide

No surface remedy, black aluminum, removal of frames, what to look for, bedding glass, deck hatches.

• Windows, Windows, Those Leaking Windows
• Is Your Boat a Leaky Tiki?
• Dealing With Leaks

I am constantly amazed at the number of boats I see where the owner has simply smeared some caulking around the window frames of leaking windows. Let's start with the point that not only does this make a mess of your boat, but this a complete waste of time. When you develop leaking windows, ports or hatches, no surface remedy is going to solve the problem.

The leaks usually develop because the seal between the window frame and the fiberglass part of the boat has broken. The break in the seal can be so small that you can't even see it. This is because of the capillary effect, which draws water into the smallest of cracks and more or less acts as a water pump to keep bringing water in. Its also why water can enter at one point and be coming out somewhere else, perhaps two feet away from the source of the leak.

Most boats now have aluminum window frames, and which constitute the major source of leaks. This is usually not the fault of the frame, but of the poor design of the structure to which the frame is attached. Please see the " Windows, Windows, Those Leaky, Leaking Windows " essay for photos and a more detailed discussion of design. Many boats are so badly designed that no matter what you do, you're not going to be able to stop the leaks.

Before tackling the project, here's what to look for:

• The window frames are the only thing holding up the flying bridge.
• The side decks are weak, and when you walk on them, it pulls the deck and house side away from the window frame.
• Frame is not channelized, but consists of just the frame and glass clamped against the house side with screws.
• The window frames are black and you live in the south.

If you have a poorly designed boat where the window frames are holding up the flying bridge, or are very low to the side decks and the deck flexes when you walk on it, it is not likey that you can stop the leaks by recaulking the windows. This is a design problem that you're pretty much stuck with.

Black aluminum, anodized or painted, is a problem because aluminum is a great heat conductor, and when they heat up in the sun they expand and break the caulking seal, as well as helping to make the cauking brittle. To stop leaking, you have to use a non-hardening caulking so that the caulking can move with the expansion.

To deal with this problem, you have to remove the frames, rebed them and refasten them less tightly than they were previously installed. The reason is that if the frames are drawn very tight, they will squeeze all the caulking out and not allow any movement without breaking the caulking seal

In this case, its best to use one of the specially formulated non-hardening silicone epoxy compounds and use 3/32" shims to prevent the frame from being drawn completely flush, particularly along the top of the frame where most leaks develop.

Draw the frame tight against the shim - which is only inserted along the edges - and then let the bedding fully set before pulling the shims out. Once the caulking has fully set - say a week - then go back and retorque the fasteners just a little tighter. What you now have is a gasket against which the frame can be drawn up against.

This method works for all types of windows, including glass sandwiched between two pieces of wood. The trick here is to NOT initially draw the frame completely flush, thereby squeezing all the bedding out. If the frame starts to leak at a later date, you then have the opportunity to tighten it even further, whereas had all the bedding been squeezed out, retightening would have no effect because there's really no gasket in there.

You must completely remove the frames and clean all the mating surfaces thoroughly before applying the bedding. Use toluol or lacquer thinner or acetone to completely clean off all old bedding. Be sure to clean the fiberglass mating surfaces as well. If there is corrosion on the surface, you should sand it off completely as water will wick right through the aluminum oxides and defeat your efforts.

If you have water leaking under bedded glass, such as on a front windshield, the only way to fix this is to remove the glass and rebed. Don't even think about smearing caulking around it because that won't work. Besides, it is not particularly difficult to remove the glass and do it right.

After removing the glass, you also have to thoroughly clean the channel in the frame in which it sits. Most window channels will be full of crud and corrosion. If you do not get it perfectly clean, all your effort is likely to be wasted, so be sure to do a good job. Two people can reset three windshield lites in a half-day so its not a big job.

To reset the glass, use a silicone based window glazing SPECIFICALLY designed for this purpose. Do not use plain old silicone sealer. Clean the glass edges thoroughly with an alcohol based glass cleaner. Plain old Windex is fine.

What you're going to do is to apply the window bedding very heavily to the frame channel and then press the glass into place, squeezing out the excess that you will later trim away with a razor blade once it fully cures.

Don't attempt to smooth out the excess with your finger because you'll just make a mess of things. Yes, its going to look ugly at first, but the razor blade will trim it away as nice as can be.

Before setting the glass in place, you'll need a dozen 2mm or 3/32" shims for each pane of glass. The reason for this is the same as with window frames: you don't want your bedding to be too thin. Use any kind of stock sized material for the shims.

Before applying the bedding, set the glass back in the frame and shim it into the final position that it will be in when the job is finished. From the interior, now place the shims right along the very edges of the frame between frame and glass. You can either use tape, or silicone sealer to hold them in the exact location. Silicone will work best because they won't move, but you have to give the silicone time to set before installing.

After the shims are in place, pull the glass back out and apply the bedding. Then set the window back into the bedded frame.

Note: You can use this same procedure for rebedding leaking hatch frames, especially on decks that flex a bit. Use the 3/16" shims under the edges of the hatch to keep from squeezing all the caulking out when you tighten the screws.

After the caulking is fully cured, come back and retorque the screws. If the hatch ever starts leaking again, all you have to do is again retighten the screws and this should stop the leak. This is because you can continue to tighten the frame against the semi-soft caulking which is really now a gasket.

Now, place shims under the bottom edge of the glass from the exterior. We do not want the glass resting on the bottom of the frame because if the frame moves, it will also move the glass, so shim it up so the glass is approximately centered in the frame, not touching on any side.

Allow the bedding to set up overnight before you go back and apply the final glazing to the exterior. If there are snap-in exterior moldings, wait a day before putting those back in so that you don't disturb the positioning.

After the bedding has cured, you can now trim the excess on the interior, or finish with the exterior glazing. To trim, hold the razon blade at an angle about 30 degrees off of vertical and cut at this angle all the way around.

Then finish up by trimming the horizontal surface, separating the bedding from the glass just up to the point of the vertical cut. Have a supply of blades because the glass will dull them quickly and they will not cut cleanly when dull.

If you do not have exterior moldings to install, use your bedding to finish up the glazing. To get a nice smooth surface, use a NEW chrome plated putty knife sprayed with silicone to prevent sticking. Don't try to remove all the excess, just get the glazing part smooth. You can trim the excess with a razor after it sets, which is very easy to do.

Viola! You're finished.

The Result:

What you have done here is to create sort of a free-floating window pane. The soft bedding will allow considerable movement without breaking the seal so that future leakage will be eliminated, or at least greatly reduced.

This method works not only for windows, but for portholes and deck hatches as well, or any place a more rigid frame is mounted to a flexing hull or deck surface.

Note: Most windows have a two-part frame, the outer frame which is the major part, and the inner which is more or less just a trim bezel. Even so, that trim bezel probably plays a major role in the sealing process, so the inner part needs to be removed and rebedded as well.

However, you don't need to shim it when reinstalling. When drawing up the screws, don't pull them real tight, just draw it up within about a 1/16" until the bedding sets. Then go back and retorque the fasteners to make it a little tighter.

Usually leak because the deck flexes somewhat, breaking the caulking seal. The remedy for this - as long as the deck doesn't flex too much - is the same as for the window glass described above.

Again, the trick is to make the bedding layer thick enough so that it can be torqued down like a gasket. Pulling that hatch frame down tight was what created the problem in the first place, so once again use shims on the preliminary reinstallation. Then go back and retorque after the bedding cures.

Tinted Lexan against a black surface:

This is a combination that will never stop leaking in Florida or the Gulf coast simply because the black absorbs too much heat from the sun and the rate of expansion is too high to permit a seal. The only solution is DON'T USE BLACK MATERIALS.

David Pascoe - Biography

David Pascoe is a second generation marine surveyor in his family who began his surveying career at age 16 as an apprentice in 1965 as the era of wooden boats was drawing to a close.

Certified by the National Association of Marine Surveyors in 1972, he has conducted over 5,000 pre purchase surveys in addition to having conducted hundreds of boating accident investigations, including fires, sinkings, hull failures and machinery failure analysis.

Over forty years of knowledge and experience are brought to bear in following books. David Pascoe is the author of:

• " Mid Size Power Boats " (2003)
• " Buyers’ Guide to Outboard Boats " (2002)
• " Surveying Fiberglass Power Boats " (2001, 2nd Edition - 2005)
• " Marine Investigations " (2004).

In addition to readers in the United States, boaters and boat industry professionals worldwide from nearly 80 countries have purchased David Pascoe's books, since introduction of his first book in 2001.

In 2012, David Pascoe has retired from marine surveying business at age 65.

On November 23rd, 2018, David Pascoe has passed away at age 71.

Biography - Long version

Maintenance, Repair Articles At A Glance

• All about Bilge Pumps
• Attaching Hardware to Your Boat
• Battery Basics
• Corrosion in Marinas
• Diesel Maintenance, Or Lack of It
• Electronics Outside
• Haul Out Basics
• How to Install an Aluminum Fuel Tank
• How to Prevent Your Boat from Sinking
• Tips on Electrical System Use and Maintenance
• Maintaining Stern Drives
• Maintenance Fundamentals Part I : Engines
• Myth of Condensation in Fuel Tanks, The
• Preventing Rot in Encapsulated Wood Structures
• Repairing Diaphragm Pumps
• Repairing Rotary Vane Pumps
• Solving Chronic Battery Problems
• Tips on Painting Fiberglass Boats
• Winter Lay Up
• Washing Down
• From Other Category
• Exhaust Risers (from Buying a Boat Cat.)

• What is Pre-Purchase Survey?
• Business Practices and Client Relations
• Sound vs. Seaworthiness
• Hull and Its Structure
• Surveying the Hull
• Using Moisture Meters
• Stress Cracks & Surface Irregularities
• Deck & Superstructure
• Drive Train
• Gas Engines
• Fuel Systems
• Exhaust Systems
• Electrical Systems
• Plumbing Systems

• The Marine Investigator Read Online Full Chapter 1
• The Nature of Investigations
• The Nature of Evidence
• Marine Insurance and Issues of Law
• Bilge Pumps & Batteries
• Finding the Leak
• Sinking Due To Rain
• Fire Investigations
• Machinery Failure Analysis
• Fraud Investigations
• Interrogation Techniques
• Deposition & Court Testimony

Published by: D. H. Pascoe & Co., Inc. Articles, Images: Copyright © 1997 - 2018 David H. Pascoe All rights reserved. Articles, Images: Copyright © 2019-2022 Junko A. Pascoe All rights reserved. Web site design & developement: Copyright © 1997 - 2023 Junko A. Pascoe All rights reserved. Web site: Maintained by Junko A. Pascoe

Hyachtcaulking and window Repair

• Yacht window repair

Reduce energy costs and bring new light to your boat

Professional Window Installation and Repairs for yachts and boats

Knowledgeable experts, customer satisfaction guaranteed, we care about the details, photo gallery, contact us 305/798/9835, get a free quote.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Schedule an Appointment

To set up a window service consultation, please contact us at your convenience. We look forward to meeting you soon.

Hyachtcaulking

Hours 8:00 am - 6:00 pm.

Monday - Saturday: 8AM–5PM

Sunday: Closed

Copyright © 2021 Hyachtcaulking - All Rights Reserved.

Powered by GoDaddy

This website uses cookies.

We use cookies to analyze website traffic and optimize your website experience. By accepting our use of cookies, your data will be aggregated with all other user data.

Serving Seattle, Tacoma & The Surrounding Areas

253-802-9800 206-690-4114

360-799-8335 425-429-7868

Marine Services

Seattle marine glass services, yacht & boat glass installation & repair.

Any yacht or boat owner knows that everything about their seafaring vessels is unique when compared to their counterparts on land. This applies to the windows and doors, especially. You can’t trust just any glass company to work on your yacht’s glass. When you need someone you can trust for your marine glass replacement needs, our pros at American Eagle Glass have years of experience installing and repairing glass on high-end yachts and boats.

Are the windows on your yacht leaking? Leave it to the professionals.   Contact   American Eagle Glass at   253-802-9800   for a free estimate.

Yacht Window Replacement Vs. Repair

Are you unsure whether your marine window needs to be replaced or repaired? Either way, don’t try to DIY. Proper repair and installation can make all the difference for the longevity of your yacht’s windows, and trying to deal with broken glass on your own can be incredibly dangerous. A good rule of thumb is that a broken window needs to be replaced, while a leaking window can be repaired. If you’re still not sure, making a call to American Eagle Glass can answer all your questions.

Look out for these signs to determine whether you should contact American Eagle Glass:

The seal between the window frame and the fiberglass of the boat has broken

Your windows have black aluminum frames, which can cause the seal to break due to heat

Windows do not slide or open well

Your windows or windshield are broken

Call Our Marine Glass Specialists

If your glass company doesn’t specialize in boat windows and windshields, you shouldn’t trust them with these unique applications. At American Eagle Glass, we have worked with hundreds of happy customers in Seattle and surrounding areas to bring their yacht back to life. Don’t leave your boat’s functionality to chance. Trust our marine glass professionals for all your yacht and boat glass needs.

Unmatched Craftsmanship

Custom & Tailored Solutions

Marine Expert

How to Replace Boat Windows

If you have a boat, then you know the importance of maintaining it and keeping it in proper condition. For that to be possible, the windows need to be in a good condition too, which means that if you have old ones that are well past their time, you will have to replace them.

However, replacing your boat windows may prove to be harder than you thought. With some guidance, it can become less troublesome, though. So, are you ready to take off the boat cover and start working on replacing your boat windows? Here’s what you need to do.

Replacing Boat Windows – Steps to Go Through

1. remove the existing windows.

Clamp-style windows are the most common type you can see, as it’s a quite loved installation. Start removing the screws you find on the trim ring, and on the inside of the boat. This will allow the window to be pushed out of the opening when you use your force on it.

There’s usually sealant found under the window flange if you look from the outside of the vehicle, so you will have to release that too. Using a thin, putty knife, work on the outside of the boat, and around the flange you can find outside. Then, pick a window corner and make the flange loose. Once you do that, push the window’s corner out of the hole.

Take the window out of the hole carefully, and after doing so, get rid of any residual sealant you can find on the outside wall.

2. Start Measuring

Assuming you didn’t already buy the new windows, take the measurements for the window holes. What you need to know before doing this is that cleaning up the hole before measuring is a good idea. You don’t want anything to ruin the process and make you take the wrong measurements. Also, before doing so, try to find out if the original line drawings from the boat builder are still available. If the builder is still in business, you can simply make a call and find out.

If there’s none available or you’d rather measure yourself, start measuring the length and width of the holes so you know how big the windows you’ll buy should be. Double-check to ensure they’re accurate before you buy your new windows.

3. Fit the New Windows in the Opening

Once you have your new windows, it’s time to check out whether they fit in the exposed opening or not. If you have someone else around, you may want to ask for their help, as this part is a little difficult to do by yourself.

Insert the window in the opening to verify whether the new windows fit. The exterior window flange needs to overlap the opening in such a way that they form a good seal. Pay attention to that. Also, you should figure out if you will need shims or not. Shims are meant to center the window in the opening, so it’s important to know if you require them or not.

Now, remove the window in order to prepare it to be installed permanently.

4. Install the Window

It’s time to start the actual installation of the window. Have the windows lying on a flat and soft surface. Take the seal tape and apply it on the flange, by starting at the middle of the window’s bottom. You have to overlap the 2 ends by around ½ inch. Start pulling the backing off the tape.

Also, if you don’t want tape from sticking on the outer wall of the boat, you should use a spray water bottle and mist the opening’s perimeter. The window screen should be removed during installation, as this will make sure it’s not being damaged.

There are some screws coming with the window, and you should use them to fix the window to the opening. Don’t use other types of screws, especially longer ones, because you risk puncturing the frames and causing leaks.

Have another person holding the window in place as soon as you’re satisfied with the final position. You have to then center the clamp ring on the window’s inside part and then install the screws that were given with the products.

Now, you should just install the screen. Insert it into the screen track, and make sure to push and pivot it, so it’s into place. This will complete the installation.

Useful Tips to Remember

• Don’t rush. Installing new windows requires you to be careful and focused, so make sure there’s room for patience before anything else.
• Have someone else close by. You will need help, as installing windows for boats is not an easy task. Especially if your boat is bigger and has larger windows as a result, you’ll be thankful if someone is nearby to help.
• Only use high-quality tools. They have to be the right size for the job, so make sure you get them before the installation.
• Start with the easiest task first. If you have smaller windows in some areas of the boat, start with the smallest one and work your way up to the bigger ones.
• Don’t overdo it with applying force. Excessive force may result in damage and even injury, so even when you need to apply some force, don’t do it more than necessary.

Final Thoughts

Replacing your boat windows becomes a piece of cake as soon as you find out what to do. Follow these steps and tips and the process will be hassle-free.

About Peter Richardson

Peter Richardson decided that he needs to balance out the sedentary lifestyle of a software developer by getting out there more. He found passion in none other than – boats. This website represents everything he learned along the way. Finding the right equipment for your boat is no easy task, and that is what Peter’s articles aim to help you with.

Leave a Comment Cancel reply

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

JavaScript seems to be disabled in your browser. For the best experience on our site, be sure to turn on Javascript in your browser.

We Ship Worldwide.

• Testimonial
• Create an Account

Port Windows and Portlights

Life belowdecks needn't be dim and dismal. Let the sunlight in with new portlights and boat windows from Great Lakes Skipper. Our huge inventory of new and replacement boat parts includes boat windows, fixed portlights, opening portlights, portlights with screens, and marine portlights in a range of colors, shapes, and sizes. We carry boat portlights from Bomar, Gebo, Hi-Tide Manufacturing, Jim Black, Lewmar, Taylor-Made, Diamond Sea Glaze, and many more top brands. Check out our amazing discount prices - you'll love them! 

Shop Products

Items 1 - 12 of 123

• You're currently reading page 1

• Privacy Policy
• Terms of Use

S/V Violet Hour

Sailing adventures in the pacific northwest.

How To: Replace Frameless Acrylic Windows on a Boat with the VHB Tape Method

Now nearing five years into owning our 1984 C&C , we’re finally getting around to replacing the badly weathered acrylic cabin windows. Our windows weren’t leaking (much) – a common reason to replace fixed ports, but were old enough that they were badly crazed and more translucent than transparent. We have frameless windows, also known as surface mounted portlights.

Acrylic plastic doesn’t last forever, and some say as little as 6-10 years is all it takes before you start getting UV damage in the form of spiderwebbing lines (crazing). Since we live aboard, having windows we can see clearly out of is a big livability improvement. How many people can honestly say they live in a home without transparent windows? Most houses have glass, which doesn’t craze like plastic does.

We try to avoid working on cosmetic projects (although this is more than cosmetic, since it allows us to see better), but now that we’ve finished 3 years worth of higher priority refit items (like the rig, rudder , etc), we have the luxury of spending some time on lower priority things. And this is a good one for our current cruising phase because it’s relatively low cost but high in time requirements. And we had lots of time available this past November / December.

New window to right, old one to left (note: the streaking on the old one is because I washed it with a dirty sponge)

Many C&C owners have done this project already, and my methods were for the most part simply copying what others have already done. There’s nothing incredibly hard here, but the details matter. If you rush this job, it’s likely to have a poor result in the end.

Our existing windows were thru-bolted and sealed with some kind of black flexible sealant. For the new windows we switched to a more modern method: the acrylic is adhered to the hull using adhesive 3M VHB tape (VHB stands for Very High Bond) and sealed using Dow Corning 795 industrial silicone.

There are good explanations of this method here:

• The YouTube show Boatworks Today
• CnC List (C&C owners list)
• Sail Magazine: Replacing Fixed Portlights

From what I understand this method is used on many newer production boats such as Beneteau’s. Still, I took me a while to feel comfortable with whether it would be offshore worthy. A window failure at sea can be catastrophic – if you lose a cabin window while waves are breaking over the boat, you might have no easy way to prevent taking on water.

There are some people who will still disagree, but once I understood the VHB properties I was confident it could hold up to offshore stress. VHB tape is used to bond skyscraper windows to buildings. As long as it’s applied correctly, it has very high bonding strength. And the fact that it’s a flexible tape creating a soft mounting surface is actually an important feature.

Thru-bolting acrylic windows makes them weaker – our old windows had cracks around the thru-bolts in several places. Acrylic expands/contracts with temperature changes, and the boat itself flexes slightly when at sea. So a window is more likely to fail due to flexing and cracking than it is to pop out.

Old window with thru-bolting, cracked in bottom corner

This project takes a lot of time, and is not the kind of project to rush or take shortcuts. For us it took at least 40 hours, plus about 10 hours in prep research and communicating with the plastics shop. About 1/4 of the 40 hrs was in filling the 100+ thrubolt holes and chipping off Plexus, which not all boats will have to deal with.

Per Window, approx 8-10 hours:

• 1-2 hrs: Remove ~30 thru-bolts and pry off old acrylic
• 1 hr: Test fit new window and mask around hull frame with painter’s tape
• 1 hr: Apply VHB tape, test fit again and cut off inner acrylic masking paper where the VHB tape will adhere. Scuff that edge with sandpaper and clean with 50/50 IPA/water. Apply silicone around corner of hull inset, then press in new acrylic.
• 1 hr: Inject and tool silicone into the gap around the new window. Clean-up. Remove acrylic masking paper and marvel at your new view.

Total: 8 hrs/window * 4 windows = 32 hours

Filling and painting ~100 thru-bolt holes: approx 8 hours:

• 45 minutes per epoxy round * 2 iterations/window * 4 windows = 6 hrs
• ~2 hrs for painting over epoxy on interior

The epoxying required many iterations because we were doing one window at a time, and because when you inject thickened epoxy into a horizontal hole (a hole in a near-vertical surface), it’s difficult to get the hole completely filled on the first attempt. In some holes it settled and I had to refill on the next round. There may have been better choices for fill material, but epoxy thickened with sandable filler was popular on a few forums I read.

We used the 5952 VHB tape because it’s a high bond strength designed for these applications and it comes in black (some of the other model #’s are red or gray, which wouldn’t look good under the windows). Some caution is advised picking a supplier. Ebay has cheap VHB tape but is not an official 3M distributor. McMaster Carr, Grainger and others are. 3M informed me Amazon is a 3M distributor. I found a number of complaints on Amazon product reviews, but I believe this may have been for Amazon affiliate stores (if it says “Sold by X” or “Sold by X and fulfilled by Amazon”, that’s *not* an Amazon supplied product).

• Plastic sheeting – we used 3 mil “clear” plastic sheeting to cover the windows while they were out. It literally said clear on the packaging, but the sheeting was not clear at all – more like opaque. It let light in, but we could not see out through it. If you’re living aboard it might be worth finding actually clear plastic sheeting.

• Paint scrapper – rigid style
• Paint scrapper – flexible style
• Painter’s tape
• Fein MultiTool with 80-180 grit sand paper
• Dremel with sanding drum

Getting the old windows off wasn’t terribly hard, but cleaning the surface is. First we had to scrape off all the black sealant, and then found a hard, brown epoxy-like material underneath –  Plexus, aka methacrylate adhesive (Plexus is the brand name of this structural adhesive). Plexus is evil stuff. It’s quite possibly worse than 5200 in regards to removal. It bonds permanently to the underlying gelcoat or fiberglass. It’s what C&C used originally to bed the windows, and nowadays is no longer a recommended method.

Removing remaining Plexus involved hitting a scraper with a hammer to chip it off, which also pulled off gelcoat at times. You can try sanding it, but it will take a very long time to sand if it has any thickness to it. Luckily, not all of our windows had much Plexus – it appears a former owner already replaced the windows and removed some Plexus.

After removing as much Plexus as possible, I sanded using a Fein Multitool with medium grit sanding triangles, and occasionally used my Dremel sanding drum. The Fein is better for getting a flat, smooth surface along the beveled edge. The Dremel can sometimes create diveted / uneven surfaces, since it uses a round sanding drum, so I only used that in small spots where I had stubborn protruding bits of Plexus.

All Windows At Once or One at a Time?

Since we live on our boat, and would be doing this during the cold, rainy Pacific Northwest winter, a big question was whether to do all 4 windows at once or one at a time (or 2 at a time). Most people do them all at once, to make the project go quicker, but most people aren’t doing this while living aboard in the winter.

We were glad we decided to do them in stages (#1, #2, and #3+4 at the same time). It made the project take 4 weeks instead of two, but we realized having all four windows out at once would make life really difficult and unpleasant. After covering the holes with the “clear” 3-mil plastic sheeting, I found the clear sheeting was more opaque than clear. Especially after doubling it up (for better insulation), it was not possible to see through the sheeting. This means less visibility, and having no windows in your cabin in the winter would be really difficult. Seasonal affective disorder is a real risk here in the winter, when daylight hours are short, sun sometimes non-existent, and opportunities to get outside are reduced.

There are two other downsides to having windows out in the winter that we worried about: cold, and rain. These turned out to be not as bad as expected. Covering the window (with the plastic sheeting plus draping a heavy plastic panel from our old full enclosure) reduced heat loss pretty well, and we kept our two electric heaters running to compensate.

And rain never got in through the sheeting – I monitored to make sure the painter’s tape at the top edge and sides was well adhered, and reinforced with duck tape at the corners when adhesion got reduced. Having a Strataglass panel (full enclosure panel) above the window also greatly reduced rain getting on the plastic sheeting.

To Paint the Back Edge of the Acrylic or Not?

One aspect we did differently from some others online is we didn’t apply black paint to the back edge of the new acrylic, where it overlaps the hull inset. Others recommend this, often with Krylon paint, to ensure that the white hull surface doesn’t show through the tinted acrylic. We figured the black VHB tape would take care of this (and a couple others online did it this way as well).

On the 1st window where we used 1/2” width VHB tape, it didn’t completely cover the white hull. We attempted to fill in the rest with the black 795 sealant, but that was a bit messy and so it doesn’t look perfect. But it’s not too bad. On the next 3 windows we switched to 3/4” VHB tape, which completely covered the visible hull surface and looks great.

1st window inset, with the 1/2″ tape

What’s the Worst Vegetable on a Boat? A Leak!

Stuff going wrong is pretty normal in boating, but usually it’s something going wrong with old equipment, not something brand new we’re putting in. It’s really disheartening to finish a project and find you did something wrong (as with the autopilot mount last year ).

So when I found out our brand new window was leaking, I was pretty upset! As a heavy Seattle mist fell in late November (the kind of drippy, foggy rain that isn’t heavy rain but creeps into the tiniest apertures on a boat), a steady drip appeared inside one corner of our 1st new window.

It was very hard to trace the leak, but as far as I can tell it came from one of two possible sources:

• Miniature gaps where the silicone bead had pulled away from the hull or acrylic. These were only a hair’s width thick, but that was probably enough for water to wick in.
• Gel coat cracks along the edge of the hull frame. Our 35 year old boat has plenty of small gel coat cracks around the window ports, caused by hull flexing / normal hull stress. In some cases these hair-width spider lines extend under the silicone sealant and may have been wicking water in.

The 1st window, done with 1/2″ VHB tape

One trick I discovered was using compressed air (the kind you get for cleaning computer keyboards) to push air at the exterior of the sealant joint. When I got to imperfect sealant, even though there might be no visible issue, the air would push through and create bubbles in the water sitting behind the gap. I did this with a headlamp, which facilitates seeing through the tinted acrylic.

I eventually fixed the leak with some reapplications of the Dow Corning 795, but for the next 3 windows we followed more stringent processes.

Tooling the Silicone

From that mistake on the first window, we learned that tooling the silicone requires much greater attention to detail than expected. The sealant around the acrylic needs to be perfect to avoid water seeping through. If the silicone pulls away from the edge – either hull or acrylic – water can wick in through the crack.

So on subsequent windows we did additional prep (filling gel coat cracks with epoxy) and made sure to perfectly tool the silicone into the gap. Dow Corning 795 is pretty forgiving, and we were able to work on it just with a bare finger – no soap or liquid – but you can only run over it once or twice. Repeated attempts to make it neat will likely make it worse. However, if an area wasn’t tooled cleanly in the first pass or two, I found I could apply additional silicone on top of the messy area and then re-tool that.

When we pulled the cover paper off our first new window, a stunned look passed over our faces. Natalie and I couldn’t believe the night-and-day difference it made. For years we had been looking through crazed, foggy windows, and the new one was crystal clear.

For comparison, holding the old acrylic in front of the new one

It was almost like the window wasn’t there at all. We could see our neighboring boat in sharp detail, and can only imagine how much better the views are going to be in the beautiful anchorages we visit once we’re back out to full-time cruising (April).

This project took a lot of time, but relatively little money in boat terms, and turned out to be well worth the effort.

[Note: This page contains Amazon links which give us a small referral fee if you make a purchase within 24 hours of clicking the link. We only recommend things we like, and you’re always free to purchase it elsewhere or without the referral link if you wish.]

24 thoughts on “ How To: Replace Frameless Acrylic Windows on a Boat with the VHB Tape Method ”

nice project, where did you get your replacement acrylic windows?

Most plastics shops can cut the acrylic, we used Clear Cut Plastics in Ballard, Seattle.

Thanks for sharing your project, i picked up some great information. Question – what thickness were the acrylic windows – ie” 3/8 or 1/4 inch?

They are 3/8″. Thanks, glad this post has been helping other boaters!

Did you use asolvent for the black sealant that was above the Plexus? What solvent is recommended? Some people recommend a 1/8 inch gap betwwen the new acrylic and the window frame. Do you also recommend this gap? The 795 fills this gap and allows for expansion. When placing the window into the VHB tape,what did you use for spacers to ensure the acrylic window was properly spaced into the window frame? I am considering a number of double stacked washers appropriatley spaced along the bottom of the frame. Your blog has been very helpful. Thank you.

We tried some 3M Adhesive Remover I believe and Goo-B-Gone as well as I think alcohol/soapy water mixture and none of them helped a great deal, they just make the sealant softer/wetter which may make it easier to scrape off. But mostly it was a manual scraping job and then finishing touches with a sander (oscillating Fein or Dremel). I would definitely try for a 1/8 inch gap between acrylic and hull frame dimensions. A couple of our windows didn’t quite have that (maybe only 1/16″) and expansion / flexing caused them to leak a bit after 1 yr. We redid them with a slightly bigger gap (by sanding down the acrylic edges that were tight). To place onto the VHB tape we test fit and then ran duck tape strips along the bottom edge. Then folded down the window, injected sealant into corners not covered by tape, removed the tape cover and carefully placed the window keeping the duck tape taut (2 person job). The stacked washers idea sounds good.

Thank you very much for your quick reply. Xylene did soften the black material to help in removal but did run and discolor the gelcoat.

In one of the articles you linked to, it recommends 3M 4991 which is 2.3mm thick, not 3M 5952 which is only 1.1mm thick. I just used the 5952 that you recommended and there is almost no gap unfortunately. I’m going to do the other set with the 4991 and hopefully it gets closer to that 1/8 in. We’ll see what happens in a year I guess!

Yes, that’s a good point – I think the tape thickness depends on the boat and how your window insets are designed. On our C&C, the thinner tape was best because otherwise the windows would’ve protruded out from the coach roof.

The gap that was filled with sealant was a gap around the circumference of the acrylic window – so that gap was mostly determined by the width/height the acrylic is cut to, rather than the tape thickness. But I agree some custom tweaking is needed depending on the particular boat.

How’s it holding up? Do you still recommend this window conversion?

Yes, they held up well and I know other people that have used the same technique.

I have a C&C 115 (2006) that requires window replacement as well. The originals were bronze colored Lexan polycarbonate (I think). We do some offshore racing. Question: acrylic or polycarbonate for replacement? I’ve heard pros and cons of both.

I recall reading some debates on acrylic vs polycarbonate/Lexan… each has pros/cons but acrylic is easier to source from local shops I think. Here’s an article I found which discusses it: http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/portlight_replace/page02.htm

Polycarbonate/Lexan is stronger, but strength isn’t really the issue with windows our size. The author saying polycarb/Lexan scratches easier is a big downside for us since it’s already hard avoiding scratches to acrylic.

What color / tint were your new windows? Looks like you used a dark grey?

It was medium gray, “Acyrlite 2064”.

I’ve seen a few videos now, including two from professional shops, showing two variances from your method: Firstly, they said they weren’t just painting the acrylic for visuals but also to protect the 795 from UV exposure (which seems odd as it’s absurdly hardy), and secondly, they applied the tape and sealant to the window rather than the boat itself… seems more like a technique choice.

Thoughts on the UV thing? Have you noted any cracking or shrinkage with the 795?

UV protection might be a good idea (I’ve seen black tape used on other boats, however I don’t know if they used Dow Corning 795 behind that tape). We didn’t have any issues at all with the sealant deteriorating. Dow Corning 795 claims to be “highly resistant to UV” and “virtually unaffected by sunlight, rain, weather.”

I like what you have done. I am planning on replacing the windows on my boat if I break the windows due to removal. My acrylic is in good shape but they used Sikaflex and it has failed in some areas so it could be difficult to get windows out. If you use the VHB tape to leave a 1/8″ gap around the outside of acrylic, can you just fill that gap in after placing windows in place to create seal. Would 1/8 gap be enough to seal window or should I make it 1/4 inch as I have the room.

I think it might be difficult to inject enough sealant into a 1/8″ gap after placing the window on the VHB tape. It can be difficult to position the window precisely and the gap may end up tighter on one side. 1/4″ would make it easier and also give more expansion room (in some cases it’s the sun heating causing expansion which cracks the acrylic and/or breaks sealant seal). It’s a judgment call though, depends on the situation.

3/16 would be better. Fill around with DowSil 795 using a spoon to carefully contour it.

The windows on my yacht are large 40” x 80” and they can grow by as much as 1/2” depending on the temperature range. From my understanding the VHB tape attaches to acrylic and fiberglass. Will the tape have enough give not to detach from either the acrylic or fiberglass due to expansion or contraction of acrylic compared to fiberglass.

Those are very large windows (looks like you have a catamaran) – over 3’x6′ is about twice the size of what I did. So that’s beyond my expertise, you may need to find someone else with similar sized windows that has done this project. The VHB tape is pliable/stretchy and 3M has a technical specs sheet which may say how much expansion it can tolerate. I suspect it would work out but can’t say for sure.

what method did you use to remove the old plexiglass. was heat used?

I don’t recall using heat. That may have been a good idea to soften the sealant. For us paint scrapers and gradual, even leverage was enough.

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment.

Notify me of follow-up comments by email.

Notify me of new posts by email.

Marine Windows

For use in:.

• Fishing Boats
• Luxury Houseboats
• Pilot House, Salon, Windshield and Side Windows for Boats

Fixed or sliding windows for boats , houseboats and yachts, are custom built to meet your specific requirements. Whether you need lightweight windows or heavy-duty windows designed to endure the most severe conditions, our craftsmen can build the window for you. Our single pane and insulated windows are available in a variety of widths and can be custom built with either radius or mitered (square) corners. Our window frames are available in your choice of  anodized clear (silver) marine grade aluminum or a selection of powder coat colors.

The design of a Peninsula Glass Coastal Motion marine window is limited only by your imagination. Many choices including glass tint, frame style and shape are options that help you custom build your own window. Glass tints range from clear, solex (green), solar bronze, solar gray, solar cool bronze (mirror finish) and dark gray. We can produce shapes ranging from rectangles, single slopes, squares, parallelograms, and circles. Other choices such as direction of slide, thickness of glass, and the method of mounting are also available.

We view each customer’s requirements with a wealth of experience, a reputation for innovation and an unparalleled level of quality and service. Our team is dedicated to bringing you the highest quality products. Our state-of-the-art manufacturing techniques, consistent high-quality, and on-time deliveries define us as leaders in the market place. Let our experienced staff co-develop a production specific solution for your window needs. Visit https://www.boatwindows.com for more information.

Related: 

Marine Glass: Quick Shopping Guide

What Boat Dock Accessories Do You Need?

Measuring Marine Windows:

How Do I Measure For My New Windows?

Key Benefits

• Custom Sized and Shaped to Meet Individual Specifications
• Clamp Grip Installation
• Fixed & Sliding Configurations
• Tempered Glass, Laminated Safety Glass, Acrylics & Polycarbonates Available
• Anodized Aluminum or Powder Coat Frames
• Select Radius or Mitered Corners Available

Check The Specs:

• Series 1200 (1/4” Sliding)
• Series 1600 (1/4” Fixed)
• Series 1250 (3/8” or 1/2″ Fixed)
• Series 1275 (3/8” vented – top hinge)

We are excited about the opportunity to add you to our family. Please help us describe you needs by getting started here

• Testimonials
• Photo Gallery
• Window Replacement Parts

Proudly Manufactured in the United States of America

Get Started

Manufacturer of Top Quality Custom-fabricated Marine Windows for over 40 years.

We’ve listened to what you want. we’ve seen what you expect. we’ve heard your frustrations. give motion windows an opportunity to win your business today., we design and manufacture the highest quality windows for the custom boat builder, marine refurbishment and oem production markets., motion windows the industry name you can trust to exceed your expectations., the window fit great, work smooth & look beautiful, our services we custom manufacture high end marine windows.

COMMERCIAL FISHING MARINE WINDOWS

You can find Motion Windows on lobster and tuna fishing boats in the Northeast, salmon and crab…

COASTAL CRUISER & YACHT WINDOWS

Motion Windows coastal cruiser and yacht line of windows can be found in the cool waters of the San Juan Islands of the Pacific…

HOUSEBOAT WINDOWS

We custom manufacture high end Marine Windows in both dual pane and single pane for the luxury houseboat market…

ALUMINUM JET BOAT WINDOWS

When it comes to the aluminum jet boat market in the Pacific Northwest, Motion Windows is the name to know. We are the OEM manufacture…

Proven Quality and Craftsmanship

Peninsula glass manufactures custom boat windows , marine windows and rv windows from its motion windows division..

Peninsula Glass is located in Vancouver, Washington. We specialize in marine boat windows, replacement boat windows, marine window restoration, aluminum boat windows, and sliding boat windows.

Our manufacturing facility is located about 5 miles north of the Portland, Oregon airport. We have been successfully serving customer glass needs nationwide since 1975.

Solutions Peninsula Glass manufactures custom boat windows & marine windows.

Standard Duty Boat Windows

Sliding or Fixed With 1/4″ Glazing. Durable and cost efficient… Read More

Heavy Duty Boat Windows

Fixed or Hinged Closures Available In 3/8” or 1/2” Tempered Glass… Read More

House Boat Windows

Luxurious RV-Style Single Pane or Dual Insulated Windows… Read More

Our Testimonials

I want to take a moment to thank you for producing such a terrific product and going above and beyond in your service. You clearly have exacting standards of order processing, fabrication, assembly, and quality assurance. In addition, I was impressed with the little things like how well the windows were packaged, and how easy they were to install. It is obvious that your employees take pride in producing and standing behind their great products.

John B Walnut Creek, CA

When ordering something online sight unseen you are somewhat skeptical of the product you will receive. I am happy to say that I am very pleased with your product. After examining the window it appears that the workmanship is impeccable and it matches my other windows right down to the locking latch. I will not hesitate to recommend you to anyone. Thanks again for a great product and your promptness with my order.

Ken T Austin, TX

Peninsula Glass Divisions Starting out in Portland, OR, Peninsula Glass has been helping customers nationwide since 1975.

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter

Maine Cat 41 Used Boat Review

CS 30 Used Boat Review

Hinckley 49 Used Boat Review

Island Packet 31 Used Boat Review

Best Crimpers and Strippers for Fixing Marine Electrical Connectors

Thinking Through a Solar Power Installation

How Does the Gulf Stream Influence our Weather?

Can You Run a Marine Air-Conditioner on Battery Power?

Master the Sailing Basics: Never Stop Learning the Little Things

How to Mount Your Camera on Deck: Record Your Adventures with…

Un-Stepping the Mast for America’s Great Loop

Headsails and Spinnakers: How to Explain Their Functions to a Beginner

Sinking? Check Your Stuffing Box

The Rain Catcher’s Guide

How to Change Your Engine Mounts

Keeping Water Clean and Fresh

Vinyl Boat Lettering DIY Application and Repair

Those Extras you Don’t Need But Love to Have

Three-Model BBQ Test

Alcohol Stoves— Swan Song or Rebirth?

Womens Foul-Weather Gear

Preparing Yourself for Solo Sailing

How to Select Crew for a Passage or Delivery

Preparing A Boat to Sail Solo

Chafe Protection for Dock Lines

Waxing and Polishing Your Boat

Reducing Engine Room Noise

Tricks and Tips to Forming Do-it-yourself Rigging Terminals

Marine Toilet Maintenance Tips

• Boat Maintenance
• Sailboat Reviews

Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows?

Practical sailor tests 27 products that clean, restore, and polish soft vinyl boat windows..

Preserving a clear view through clear plastic on dodgers or enclosures is one of the most challenging tasks in boat maintenance. Restoring a vinyl window is almost impossible, but that doesn’t stop the tide of products that claim to make this job easy. Practical Sailors  eisenglass cleaners test looks at 27 products touted primarily as cleaners or treatments for vinyl windows. The test products were divided into type: cleaners, scratch repairers, polish protectants, and UV protectants. After a week of testing, we found Imar Strataglass Protective Cleaner and Imar Strataglass Protective Polish, distributed by Defender Industries, to be the Best Choice. Collinite No. 845 Insulator Wax and Mer-Maids Plexiglass Plastic Cleaner and Polish were the Budget Buys. The test also included products from the following manufacturers: 303, 3M, Aquatech, Armada, Davies, Marykate, Meguiars. Mothers, Novus, Plexus, Sailors Solutions, Star brite, Turtle Wax, West Marine, and Yacht Brite.

                                                 ****

Preserving a clear view through soft plastic glass on dodgers or enclosures is one of the most challenging tasks in boat maintenance. Attempting to restore an old or sorely neglected soft plastic window is almost impossible, but that doesn’t stem the tide of products that claim to make this job easy.

Practical Sailor

last delved into the world of clear-plastic maintenance products back in February 2003. Since then, a number of new products have hit the market, each making its own specific claims.

Maintaining clear-plastic windows requires special care, and the article on the facing page, “In Search of Clarity,” covers the basic precautions. For a more detailed discussion of maintaining marine plastics, see “Caring for Clear Plastics on Your Boat,” at www.practical-sailor.com, in the Tools and Techniques section.

Although many of the products in this article can be used on hard acrylic or polycarbonate hatch glazing, this article examines their performance only on the soft, flexible clear-vinyl windows, such as those that youll find in a dodger or cockpit enclosure.

Canvas shops use a variety of clear vinyl (PVC) products to make these windows. Ultraclear, Crystal Clear, Seaflex, Achilles, and Strataglass are some common brand names. Practical Sailor will be comparing these and other types of clear plastics (such as Stamoid) in a future article.

All of these materials are very susceptible to scratching, smudging, and wear. Over time, they become brittle as they lose the chemicals that keep them soft and pliable. In addition, ultraviolet rays can quickly damage the vinyl, causing hazing, cracking, and yellowing. The products reviewed here help delay that process.

What We Tested

evaluated 27 products (three were two-step applications) from 18 manufacturers that were advertised, labeled, or recommended primarily as cleaners or treatments for clear-vinyl windows. All are available through marine dealers, chandlers, or the Internet.

For comparison, we broke them down into the following categories: cleaners; scratch repairers; polish/protectants; UV protectants.

Eight claimed to have UV protection, 10 included a formula or fine abrasives to remove light scratches and smudges. and all but two products promised a polished finish.

Products that stood out (for good or for bad) in the field are discussed below. Test results and ratings for all of the products appear in the Value Guide on page 25.

Armadas 210 Plastic Cleaner/Polish, a 14-ounce aerosol, excelled in cleaning and polishing our test vinyl. It provides a clear, lustrous finish with a protective coating that is anti-static and anti-fog. For older or scratched windows, use the Armada 210 Plus, which includes a very mild abrasive compound that does a reasonably good job of removing dirty residues, smudges, and fine scratches.

Bottom line: The 210 Plus is an excellent cleaner with anti-fog and anti-static properties. The 210 polishes well, but aerosol cans don’t keep well aboard saltwater boats.

Step-one in a two-step process, 3Ms Marine Vinyl Cleaner and Restorer removes haze, dirt, and stains with a thick creamy liquid. It is an above-average cleaner. The second step involves applying the 3M Marine Plastic Polish, a thick white cream that cleans and when buffed, yields a protective, high-gloss finish. The formula includes restorative mineral oils, glycerin, and carnauba wax.

Bottom line: The 3M cleaner worked fine, but the polish produced only Fair results.

303 Aerospace Protectant

Often recommended to preserve inflatable dinghies, 303s Aerospace Protectant spray cleans, shines, and leaves a UV protection of SPF 40. Directions call for renewing the finish monthly.

Bottom line: The 303 spray has multiple uses, offers good protection, and is modestly priced.

The Aquatech Clear Enclosure Cleaner and Protectant (No. 750) sprays a light, clear liquid that is designed to clean, without any alcohol, ammonia, or harsh chemicals. The Premier Polish and UV Protectant (No. 201) is a general-purpose polish for gelcoat, paint, and metal. It is a thick, white cream that slowly dries to a haze.

Bottom line: The 750 cleaner and protectant cleans quickly and leaves a slight shine. The 201 adds an excellent polished sheen with UV protection.

The Collinite 845 Insulator Wax is a thick cream designed for marine and industrial applications where a heavy-duty, high-gloss UV protective coating is required. It keeps dirt, dust, and salt from sticking and assures full protection against sun, rain, bugs, and salt spray.

Bottom line: Collinite polishes well and has multiple uses and a good track record at an affordable price. Its our Budget Buy.

Imars Strataglass Protective Cleaner (No. 301) and Strataglass Protective Polish (No. 302) are the only products recommended by Strataglass. The Imar 301 produces a fine, clear mist from a 16-ounce spray bottle. Imar recommends using the product regularly when you wash and rinse the boat. The 302 provides the same UV protection as 301, but the creamy liquid adds a thicker protective coating and brighter shine. Imar recommends reapplying 302 about every three to four months.

Bottom line: Imars 301 ranked high as a very good cleaner. The 302 was one of the better polishers that we tested, beading up best in the water test.

Marykates Glassplex Glass Cleaner (No. 3918) multipurpose glass, acrylic, and vinyl cleaner-a fine, clear liquid delivered through a trigger spray nozzle-does an acceptable job of cleaning oil and dirt. Marykate also makes Clear Vinyl Cleaner and Polish (No. 6414), which we did not test. Neither contains alcohol or ammonia.

Bottom line: Though not a standout, the Marykate 3918 was the most economical of the cleaning products tested.

A Best Buy in 2003, Mer-maids Plexiglass/Plastic Cleaner and Polish is a clear spray that goes on fast and is easy to wipe off. It is reasonably priced, and does a fairly good job cleaning and shining.

Bottom line: Mer-maids product cleaned well, provides anti-static and anti-fog protection, and does not contain alcohol or ammonia. A good bet for routine cleaning.

Testers looked at three products from Meguiars. The Clear Plastic Detailer (No. 18) is a handy one-step cleaner and polish in an 8-ounce spray bottle. It sprays a clear liquid that you wipe and polish immediately. If allowed to dry, it can leave streaks.The Clear Plastic Cleaner (No. 17) helps remove ground-in dirt and small scratches with a non-abrasive cleaning formula. TheClear Plastic Polish (No. 10) is a thick, creamy liquid that can follow the No. 17 cleaner, and provides a static-free coating that repels dust and shines up nicely.

Bottom line: Of the three Meguiars products, the No. 10 polish stood out best in its category.

Mothers Marine Power Plastic is a one-step cleaner, restorer, polish, and UV protectant. It is a creamy liquid in a bright red, 8-ounce plastic bottle that claims to remove light scratches, oxidation, stains, and yellowing. Once dried to a haze, it buffs out to a nice bright finish.

Bottom line: A good do-it-all product for reviving and protecting old windows. When polishing soft, clear vinyl, PS doesn’t recommend using it with a drill-mounted polisher, as Mothers suggests.

The Novus No. 1 Clean and Shine Plastic Polish did an excellent job of leaving a lustrous shine that resists fogging and static, and provides a good protective coating.Despite its name, the Novus No. 2 Fine Scratch Remover is meant as the first step in cleaning, and it does a good job of it. (There is also a more abrasive No. 3.)

Bottom line: These Novus products offer an excellent two-step program, particularly for scratched windows.

Originally developed for airplane windshields, Plexus Plastic Cleaner and Polish is well known for cleaning and polishing a multitude of plastic surfaces. The can sprays out a fine mist of clear liquid that cleans as it polishes and leaves a shiny anti-static protective residue.

Bottom line: This is a good product for well-maintained vinyl, but the metal can will rust.

Sailors Solutions

Sailors Solutions X-16 Plastic Window Polish is a combination cleaner (with extra-fine abrasive), polish, and UV protectant that works well but can separate over time. Follow directions and don’t let it dry too much, or it will be difficult to remove and will leave streaks.

Bottom line: The packaging is cheap (the label and directions smeared after a few uses), but the creamy liquid formula quickly removed some light scratches and left a nice shine.

Star brite has a two-step process for restoring and reviving clear plastic. Star brite Step 1 Plastic Scratch Remover is an ultra-fine abrasive for cleaning and restoring older plastic windows. The Step 2 Plastic Polish/Restorer is a light, clear liquid in an 8-ounce bottle that leaves a thin, polished coating.

Bottom line: This is an inexpensive and effective one-two punch for older vinyl.

West Marine

Packaged in an easy-to-stow 8-ounce spray bottle, West Marines One-step Plastic Cleaner Polish is a light, cream-colored liquid. It does a nice job of both cleaning and removing fine scratches, and it leaves a protective coating.

Bottom line: This cleaner-polish is held back by its higher price.

Yacht Brite

Yacht Brite Serious Shine, a 3-in-1 cleaner, polish and protectant in a 14-ounce aerosol, buffs to a nice shine and leaves a fine film that repels water with UV inhibitors and anti-static properties. It contains alcohol and solvents that are not recommended for some plastics.

Bottom line: This spray is easy to use and performs well, but the rust-prone aerosol can belongs ashore.

Conclusions

Dont put too much stock in claims that hazing, yellowing, or scratches will be eliminated. We found no miracle cure.

Products that included fine abrasives to remove light scratches took several applications and a considerable amount of hand rubbing to slowly eliminate scratches. Since abrasives can do more harm than good, we recommend them only as a last resort. Dont use electric buffers and always test on an inconspicuous area.

When testers had done a good job of cleaning the vinyl with any of the cleaners, a second step of applying and buffing with a good polish obviously improved clarity. Applying a second coat of polish the next day produced a thicker, longer-lasting protective coating that shined and beaded better.

Many products were very effective at improving visibility and preventing staining and dirt buildup. Some were easier to use than others. The clear liquids have a tendency to run, so they should be applied to a cloth first. Creams show where you have been. Sprays are handiest and probably best for a quick retouch. Heres what we found:

Of the products that claimed to only clean, the Imar 301 was the clear winner, and it also is safe for treated vinyl.

For owners of older dodgers with small scratches, the Novus No. 2 Fine Scratch Remover proved to be the most effective, followed closely by the Armada 210 Plus Plastic Cleaner/Polish and Mothers Marine Power Plastic.

Among the polishes, the Imar 302 Protective Polish, Novus No. 1, Collinite No. 845, Mothers Marine Power, and Aquatechs Premier Polish produced the best shine and beading, rating Excellent.

The best one-bottle cleaner, scratch remover, and polish with UV protection was Mothers Marine Power Plastic. Sailors Solutions X-16 also does it all and was rated Good-to-Excellent.

If you prefer a two-step process, then the Imar #301/#302 combo is the way to go. They produced the cleanest and shiniest windows and beaded water the best, earning the Best Choice honors. The Novus and Star brite two-part products were close behind.

• In Search of Clarity
• Practical Sailor Value Guide: Clear-Plastic Cleaners
• How We Tested
• Download PDF Version

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Leave a reply cancel reply.

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

Hunter Legend 35.5 – Behind the Curtain

Whipping Line On Your Sailboat

Hallberg Rassy 42 – Behind the Curtain

The ICW – The Easiest Way – Sail to the Sun...

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

• Description
• Testimonials

Welcome to Waterway Systems

Marine windows,  boat windshields, center console windscreens.  .

 Marine Windows,  Boat Windshields, Center Console Windscreens.  Custom manufactured for your restoration or new boatbuilding project.

Building quality marine windows for private and commercial fishing vessel, houseboat, specialty barge, ships, and yachts..

Since 1977 Waterway Systems has been engineering and manufacturing the finest window units available.

Fabricated in Florida, shipped USA and Internationally.

Custom Acrylic / Plexiglass Parts.  Center Console Windscreens, Dash Panels, Livewell Lids, Flybridge Windscreens, Hatches.  CNC Plastic Machining

Waterway Systems

7010 28th ST CT E

Sarasota, FL 34243

941-779-4709

[email protected]

Web View Mobile View

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

1984 Sabre 28 Window Repair

• Thread starter JimSABRE28
• Start date Jan 8, 2021
• Tags sabre 28 window repair
• Brand-Specific Forums
• Sabre Sailboats

Window Repair

CRL Glazing Vinyl; 11/32" Channel Depth 9/32" Metal Opening for 3/16" Glass - 100' Roll: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Silent running17

Jim, You’re on the right track. The gasket along with Dow 795 sealant should do the trick for the glass, set the frames with butyl tape. Years ago, I rebedded all of the portlights on a 28’ Sabre. Tim  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

WELCOME TO BOUNTY MARINE

We design and manufacture high-quality custom windows, doors and deck hatches for boats of all sizes and types.

HIGH-QUALITY CUSTOM WINDOWS, BOAT DOORS, DECK HATCHES, AND GLASS

Custom Boat Windows

High-quality custom windows for boats

Custom Boat Doors

Choose from hinged or sliding doors for your boat.

Custom made to most any size and shape, from patterns or your dimensions. 

Post comment

or continue as guest

Title Transfers and Changes

To prove vehicle ownership, it’s important to have a valid, up-to-date, and accurate California Certificate of Title. Here’s how you can transfer and change a title. 

Transfer your Title online!

You can now transfer a title online. Learn more about the steps and get started.

How to Transfer a Title

Anytime there’s a change to a vehicle or vessel’s registered owner or lienholder, that change must be updated in DMV’s records within 10 days and the California Certificate of Title must be transferred to the new owner.

A change in ownership is usually due to:

• Sale, gift, or donation
• Adding or deleting the name of an owner
• Inheritance
• Satisfaction of lien (full payment of car loan)

To transfer a title, you will need:

• Either the California Certificate of Title or an Application for Replacement or Transfer of Title (REG 227) (if the title is missing). 
• The signature(s) of seller(s) and lienholder (if any).
• The signature(s) of buyer(s).
• A transfer fee .

Depending on the type of transfer, you might need to complete and submit additional forms. See below for other title transfers and title transfer forms.

Submit your title transfer paperwork and fee (if any) to a DMV office or by mail to: 

DMV PO Box 942869 Sacramento, CA 94269

Rush Title Processing

If you need us to expedite your title processing, you can request rush title processing for an additional fee.

Transfer Fees

Depending on the type of transfer, you may need to pay the following fees:

• Replacement title
• Use tax, based on the buyer’s county of residence
• Registration

See the full list of fees .

Renewal fees and parking/toll violation fees don’t need to be paid to issue a replacement California Certificate of Title.

Title Transfer Forms

These forms may be required when transferring ownership of a vehicle or vessel:  Application for Replacement or Transfer of Title (REG 227) Vehicle/Vessel Transfer and Reassignment (REG 262) form (call the DMV’s automated voice system at 1-800-777-0133 to have a form mailed to you) Statement of Facts (REG 256) Lien Satisfied/Title Holder Release (REG 166) Notice of Transfer and Release of Liability Smog certification Vehicle Emission System Statement (Smog) (REG 139) Declaration of Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW)/Combined Gross Vehicle Weight (CGW) (REG 4008) Affidavit for Transfer without Probate (REG 5) Bill of Sale (REG 135) Verification of Vehicle (REG 31)

Other Title Transfers

When you’re buying a new car or a used car from a dealership, the dealer will handle the paperwork and you’ll receive your title from DMV in the mail.

When vehicle ownership is transferred between two private parties, it’s up to them to transfer the title. If you have the California Certificate of Title for the vehicle , the seller signs the title to release ownership of the vehicle. The buyer should then bring the signed title to a DMV office to apply for transfer of ownership. 

If you don’t have the California Certificate of Title , you need to use an Application for Replacement or Transfer of Title (REG 227) to transfer ownership. The lienholder’s release, if any, must be notarized. The buyer should then bring the completed form to a DMV office and we will issue a new registration and title.

Make sure you have all signatures on the proper lines to avoid delays.

Other Steps for the Seller When Vehicle Ownership is Transferred

• 10 years old or older.
• Commercial with a GVW or CGW of more than 16,000 pounds.
• New and being transferred prior to its first retail sale by a dealer.
• Complete a Notice of Transfer and Release of Liability (NRL) within 5 days of releasing ownership and keep a copy for your records.

Once the seller gives the buyer all required documentation and DMV receives the completed NRL, the seller’s part of the transaction is complete.

*If the vehicle has been sold more than once with the same title, a REG 262 is required from each seller.

Other Steps for the Buyer When Vehicle Ownership is Transferred

• Current registered owner(s), how names are joined (“and/or”), and lienholder/legal owner (if any).
• License plate number, vehicle identification number (VIN), make, model, year, and registration expiration date.
• Title brands (if any).
• Words “Nontransferable/No California Title Issued,” indicating a California title was not issued and a REG 227 cannot be used (see FAQs).
• Get a smog inspection (if applicable).

Once the buyer has provided the DMV with all the proper documents and fees, the vehicle record is updated to reflect the change of ownership and a registration card is issued.

A new title is issued from DMV headquarters within 60 calendar days.

To transfer a vehicle between family members, submit the following:

• The California Certificate of Title properly signed or endorsed on line 1 by the registered owner(s) shown on the title. Complete the new owner information on the back of the title and sign it.
• A Statement of Facts (REG 256) for use tax and smog exemption (if applicable).
• Odometer disclosure for vehicles less than 10 years old.
• Transfer fee .

You may transfer a vehicle from an individual to the estate of that individual without signatures on the Certificate of Title.

Submit the following:

• The California Certificate of Title. On the back of the title, the new owner section must show “Estate of (name of individual)” and their address. Any legal owner/lienholder named on the front of the title must be re-entered on the back of the title.
• A Statement of Facts (REG 256) confirming the owner is deceased and Letters Testamentary have not been issued. The person completing the statement must indicate their relationship to the deceased.

Use tax and a smog certification are not required.

Vehicle ownership can be transferred to a deceased owner’s heir 40 days after the owner’s death, as long as the value of the deceased’s property in California does not exceed:

• $150,000 if the deceased died before 1/1/20.
• $166,250 if the deceased died on or after 1/1/20.

If the heir will be the new owner, submit the following to a DMV office:

• The California Certificate of Title. The heir must sign the deceased registered owner’s name and countersign on line 1. The heir should complete and sign the back of the title.
• Affidavit for Transfer without Probate (REG 5) , completed and signed by the heir.
• An original or certified copy of the death certificate of all deceased owners.

If the heir prefers to sell the vehicle, the buyer also needs (in addition to the items above):

• Bill of Sale (REG 135) from the heir to the buyer.
• Transfer fee (two transfer fees are due in this case).

To transfer vessel ownership, submit the following:

• The California Certificate of Ownership. The registered owner signs line 1. The legal owner/lienholder (if any) signs line 2. Complete the new owner information on the back of the certificate and sign it.
• Bill(s) of sale, if needed to establish a complete chain of ownership.
• A Vessel Registration Fee .
• Use tax based on the tax rate percentage for your county of residence.

After you sell a vessel, complete a Notice of Transfer and Release of Liability (NRL) within five days of releasing ownership and keep a copy for your records.

How to Update or Change a Title

Because a California Certificate of Title is a legal document, it is important to keep it accurate and up-to-date. Here’s how you can update or change a title. 

Order a Replacement California Certificate of Title

You must order a replacement California Certificate of Title when the original is lost, stolen, damaged, illegible, or not received. 

To order a replacement title, submit the following:

• Application for Replacement or Transfer of Title (REG 227) .
• The original title (if you have it).
• California photo driver license (if submitting form in person).
• Replacement title fee .
• If another replacement title was issued in the past 90 days, a Verification of Vehicle (REG 31) completed by the California Highway Patrol (CHP). This requirement only applies if the registered owner’s name or address doesn’t match DMV records*.

You can submit your application either in-person* at a DMV office or by mail:

Department of Motor Vehicles Registration Operations PO Box 942869 Sacramento, California 94269-0001

If you’re submitting your form to a DMV office, we recommend you make an appointment so you can avoid any lines. 

You’ll receive your title by mail 15-30 calendar days from the date you submit the replacement title application.

*If you’re applying for a replacement title and the registered owner’s name or address doesn’t match DMV records (except for obvious typographical errors), you must submit your application in person with proof of ownership (e.g. registration card) and an acceptable photo ID (e.g. driver’s license/ID card).

Online Replacement Title Request

Visit our Virtual Office to request a replacement title online.

Change or Correct a Name on a Title

Your true full name must appear on your vehicle or vessel California Certificate of Title and registration card. If your name is misspelled, changes (e.g as a result of marriage or divorce), or is legally changed, you need to correct your name on your title.

To change or correct your name, submit:

• California Certificate of Title with your correct name printed or typed in the “New Registered Owner” section
• A completed Name Statement in Section F of the Statement of Facts (REG 256) .

You may submit your application to any DMV office or by mail to:

Department of Motor Vehicles Vehicle Registration Operations PO Box 942869 Sacramento, CA 94269-0001

Removing Information that was Entered by Mistake

If a name or other information is entered on a title by mistake, complete a Statement to Record Ownership (REG 101) .

Frequently Asked Questions

If the vehicle has a legal owner/lienholder, then section 5 of the REG 227 needs to be notarized. If the registration does not show a legal owner/lienholder, notarization is not required.

Need help finding the lienholder on your vehicle title? We keep a listing of banks, credit unions, and financial/lending institutions that may have gone out of business, merged, changed their name, or been acquired by another financial institution.

No. You must obtain a title from the state where the vehicle was last titled.

If you’re unable to obtain a title from that state, provide documentation that they cannot issue a title. A motor vehicle bond may be required

Contact us for more information .

Need something else?

Fee calculator.

Use our fee calculator to estimate any applicable registration or title transfer fees.

Renew Your Vehicle Registration

You need to renew your vehicle registration every 1-5 years in California, depending on the vehicle. Make sure your registration is up-to-date.

Make an Appointment

Some applications can be submitted to a DMV office near you. Make an appointment so you don’t have to wait in line.

General Disclaimer

When interacting with the Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) Virtual Assistant, please do not include any personal information.

When your chat is over, you can save the transcript. Use caution when using a public computer or device.

The DMV chatbot and live chat services use third-party vendors to provide machine translation. Machine translation is provided for purposes of information and convenience only. The DMV is unable to guarantee the accuracy of any translation provided by the third-party vendors and is therefore not liable for any inaccurate information or changes in the formatting of the content resulting from the use of the translation service.

The content currently in English is the official and accurate source for the program information and services DMV provides. Any discrepancies or differences created in the translation are not binding and have no legal effect for compliance or enforcement purposes. If any questions arise related to the information contained in the translated content, please refer to the English version.

Google™ Translate Disclaimer

The Department of Motor Vehicles (DMV) website uses Google™ Translate to provide automatic translation of its web pages. This translation application tool is provided for purposes of information and convenience only. Google™ Translate is a free third-party service, which is not controlled by the DMV. The DMV is unable to guarantee the accuracy of any translation provided by Google™ Translate and is therefore not liable for any inaccurate information or changes in the formatting of the pages resulting from the use of the translation application tool.

The web pages currently in English on the DMV website are the official and accurate source for the program information and services the DMV provides. Any discrepancies or differences created in the translation are not binding and have no legal effect for compliance or enforcement purposes. If any questions arise related to the information contained in the translated website, please refer to the English version.

The following pages provided on the DMV website cannot be translated using Google™ Translate:

• Publications
• Field Office Locations
• Online Applications

Please install the Google Toolbar

Google Translate is not support in your browser. To translate this page, please install the Google Toolbar (opens in new window) .

Location City:    Orlovo, Moskovskaya, Russian Federation (Russia) Near (Alt.): Rus' ICAO: Details Type: Heliport Latitude: 55�32'58"N (55.549444) Longitude: 37�51'52"E (37.864444) Variation: 12.04�E (WMM2020 magnetic declination) 0.14� annual change Related Locations Nearby: Farthest: Find:    beyond   but within    Copyright © 2004-2024 . All rights reserved. The Great Circle Mapper name and logo are trademarks of the . All other trademarks mentioned herein belong to their respective owners. Please see for attributions and further copyright information.       175 IMAGES How to repair yacht hatches and windows Acrylic Plastic Yacht Window Replacement Replacing Yacht Windows with Tinted Acrylic and stage 1 of sliding windows S2 E35 Navigator Yacht Boat Window Repairs Gallery Gallery VIDEO BUILDING A KITCHEN IN A STEEL YACHT Yacht Window Screens Trawler Window Replacement: New Glass WINDOW TINTING A SUPERYACHT Boat Window Glass Replacement Frame Salvage Part 2 Half Million Dollars San Diego's Yacht Window Tint and Yacht Tint Removal COMMENTS How to repair yacht hatches and windows Leaky yacht hatches and windows can make life down below miserable. Duncan Kent explains how to ditch those drippy blues forever Boat Windows There are few problems that can cause more damage and detract from the value of your boat than window, porthole and hatch leaks. Hyachtcaulking and window Repair Reduce energy costs and bring new light to your boat Marine Services Are you unsure whether your marine window needs to be replaced or repaired? Either way, don't try to DIY. Proper repair and installation can make all the difference for the longevity of your yacht's windows, and trying to deal with broken glass on your own can be incredibly dangerous. A good rule of thumb is that a broken window needs to be replaced, while a leaking window can be repaired ... How to Repair Sliding Boat Windows The common repair you need to make on sliding boat windows is to change the window frame or deal with a minor leakage in the spaces along the window frame. How to Replace Boat Windows A boat's windows will need replacement at some point. How can you replace them, though? Discover the process by reading this article. Boat Window Replacement, Port Windows & Boat Portlights Port Windows and Portlights Life belowdecks needn't be dim and dismal. Let the sunlight in with new portlights and boat windows from Great Lakes Skipper. Our huge inventory of new and replacement boat parts includes boat windows, fixed portlights, opening portlights, portlights with screens, and marine portlights in a range of colors, shapes, and sizes. We carry boat portlights from Bomar ... How To: Replace Frameless Acrylic Windows on a Boat with the VHB Tape Thru-bolting acrylic windows makes them weaker - our old windows had cracks around the thru-bolts in several places. Acrylic expands/contracts with temperature changes, and the boat itself flexes slightly when at sea. So a window is more likely to fail due to flexing and cracking than it is to pop out. Marine Windows, Yacht Windows Fixed or sliding marine windows & yacht windows. Custom built to meet your requirements - from light & heavy duty windows. Get a quote (360) 892-2029. Boat Windows Replacement: Key Considerations Your boat windows are highly susceptible to water stains and scratches. To replace boat windows, you must consider these important things first. High-Quality Marine Windows Since 1975, Boat Windows has been crafting high-end marine for fishing, yachts, and more. Experience quality and explore our custom range today. Whats the Best Way to Restore Clear Plastic Windows? Preserving a clear view through soft plastic glass on dodgers or enclosures is one of the most challenging tasks in boat maintenance. Attempting to restore an old or sorely neglected soft plastic window is almost impossible, but that doesn't stem the tide of products that claim to make this job easy. Waterway Systems Custom Marine Window Fabrication Boat Windows Waterway Systems has been manufacturing marine windows for over thirty years. Custom new and replacement boat windows for all types of vessels. Marine Glass Technicians Marine Glass Technicians is an owner operated company with vast experience in the industry. Specializing in marine windows, we have been a part of glass projects completed all over the world ranging from 13-140 meters. We have experience with all aspects of marine glass from 3D measuring, to project specific bonding material, and window film ... 1984 Sabre 28 Window Repair Bought my first sailboat - Sabre 28 and working on some winter projects. My question is about repairing main salon fixed window (pictures attached). I need to replace the gasket. I have done some research and found some resources. Sabre - window detail diagram... Taylor Made® Windshield Glass Solutions From introducing the first curved-glass windshield to the marine market, to the inventive construction of our sleek, aerodynamically designed glass surfaces — when it comes to boating windshields, framing, and replacement accessories and components, Taylor Made's capabilities are second to none. Bounty Marine Bounty Marine, Inc designs and manufactures custom windows, boat doors, deck hatches, and glass for new construction or replacements. How to Remove Old Boat Window Frames An instructional video demonstrating the necessary tools and method to remove old boat window frames in preparation for replacement fiberglass boat windows. Bomon Marine Equipment Marine windows, doors & hatches Welcome to Bomon! We produce made-to-measure marine windows, doors and hatches for pleasure crafts as well as for commercial and industrial applications. We offer versatile products that can be used for an individual replacement while being able to meet the requirements of major boat builders. Likino-Dulyovo, Russia: All You Must Know Before You Go (2024 Likino-Dulyovo Tourism: Tripadvisor has 61 reviews of Likino-Dulyovo Hotels, Attractions, and Restaurants making it your best Likino-Dulyovo resource. Paving & Driveway Contractors in Elektrostal' What types of services do driveway contractors and paving contractors provide? From installation to repair, Elektrostal', Moscow Oblast, Russia driveway contractors are responsible for a variety of planning, installation, construction and driveway maintenance services. Driveway installation. Kapotnya District (Moscow) Kapotnya District A residential and industrial region in the south-east of Mocsow. It was founded on the spot of two villages: Chagino (what is now the Moscow Oil Refinery) and Ryazantsevo (demolished Title Transfers and Changes To prove vehicle ownership, it's important to have a valid, up-to-date, accurate California Certificate of Title. UUDO Heliport information about UUDO - Orlovo, MOS, RU. Information on this site may not be accurate or current and is not valid for flight planning or navigation. catamaran gulet motorboat riverboat sailboat trimaran yacht