jet 14 sailboat specs

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October 9, 2020 by Sail1Design Editor 1 Comment

Designed and first built in the 1950’s, Jet-14’s have been crafted as a high performance, spinnaker rigged, 2 person dinghy available at a marginal cost. Their simple rigging, planing capability, and stability make it ideal for all sailor levels and a variety of wind conditions. Over 1160 Jet-14s have been built and compete in several regattas and events held across the Mid-Atlantic and Midwestern United States.

The initial plan for Jet-14’s came from a group of New Jersey sailors who were dissatisfied with existing One-Design classes in the 1950’s– they vowed to create a new boat, one that had five fundamental features: strict one-design in all speed-producing elements, good performance, minimal cost, minimum maintenance, and easy handling and transporting. Howard V. Siddons, a boat builder and sailor, designed the Jet-14 by  combining the sail plan of a Snipe and the hull lines of a Uffa Fox International-14. The boat was simple, inexpensive, and easy to build and included features such as a metal centerboard. The heavier board made the boat difficult to capsize, attracting junior sailors as well as husband and wife teams since heavy crew was not necessary for successful sailing in the Jet. From there, the Jet-14 gained popularity and established itself as an official class with a class association and registered trademark. By the 1960’s, there were 600 boats registered with the class. During  the 1970’s, new specifications were added, including a spinnaker, mid-boom traveler, and furling gear for the jib. The 1970’s were a huge boom-period for Jet-14’s. After a decade of decreasing activity during the 1980’s,  the class made a comeback in the Midwest by bringing in more junior sailors. Throughout the 2000’s and 2010’s, Jet-14’s have been mainly active throughout the Midwest and the South. Today, the biggest fleets reside in Ohio and North Carolina.

Racing and Active Fleets

More History of the Jet-14

In the fall of 1952, racing skippers on Barnegat Bay, New Jersey were discussing the merits of the various existing one-design racing classes. They did this quite often, and there was a substantial amount of dissatisfaction with the classes which were in common use. They were either too big or too small, too tricky or too slow and most of them were too expensive or not strict enough one-designs.

These skippers, as all groups of racing skippers, did not agree entirely on what the ideal boat should consist of. They did, however, agree on many fundamental desirable features. They wanted the following:

• Strict one-design in all speed-producing elements.
• Good performance, both all-around and while planing.
• Absolute minimum initial cost.
• Minimum maintenance.
• Ease of handling and transporting.

In designing the first of these boats, Siddons went to extremes in order to keep the boat simple, inexpensive and easy to build. He decked the boat over for appearance, comfort and safety, although she was generally dry enough not to need decking to shed water. The spars were kept solid, and equipped with sail track for the benefit of the amateur builders. A metal plate centerboard was decided upon, which eliminated expensive lead castings and troublesome centerboard gaskets. Plans, patterns and instructions were furnished for the do-it-yourself sailors, with the majority of the elements coming from stock size lumber.Initially, there was no thought of using this boat for juniors. The design was thought “too hot” and not safe enough. But the youngsters themselves didn’t believe that. They took such a shine to the design that about 60% of all Barnegat Bay Jets were skippered by sailors under 18. The reasons that they were able to get away with it, even on blustery days, are these:

• The heavy centerboard makes the boat difficult to capsize going to windward with the board down.
• The fairly small sail plan makes it possible for small youngsters to physically handle the boat; the centerboard is easily operated by an uncomplicated rig.
• If the boats are capsized (say while gibing), they will usually float on edge without shipping water and can be righted and sailed away

These features also make the Jet-14 attractive to another group, the husband and wife team. They can handle this boat successfully with a minimum of physical exertion and a maximum of racing enjoyment. There is no need for a crew like a “gorilla,” as in some of the large two-man boats.

The Class Association was started April 17th, 1955 to run the class business, organize the racing and protect the one-design features of the boat. In 1956, the boat specifications were established. Dues were set up and measurement certificates were prepared and distributed. Copies of the Constitution and By-laws were printed. The class newsletter, “Jet Blasts,” was first published and a regatta schedule was drawn up.

In September of 1957, the Jet-14 trademark was registered. In 1960, the Dubdan fiberglass Jet was entered in competition. 1962 brought interest in aluminum spars. The self-rescue (tanked) boats made their appearance in 1965. In 1970, a spinnaker was approved for use in the 1971 Nationals. The mid-boom traveler and furling gear were also approved in this year. The 720 rule went into effect for the ’74 Nationals. The Silver Chevron Regatta was added to the schedule for 1976. The Jet-14 Class celebrated its’ 40th anniversary in 1995. The class currently claims more than 1,140 boats in 20 active fleets. The Association runs senior and junior national championships each year and sanctions almost thirty open regattas.

For more information visit the Jet 14 Class Website: www.jet14.com

Class contact: Dirk Schwenk [email protected]

http://sailingsource.com/jet14/

Reader Interactions

March 1, 2021 at 20:53

Still a great boat to refurbish, weather one of the older woodies or fiberglass. Racing Jets are active in Ashville, NC, Lake Norman, NC, Mohican, OH, Cleveland, OH and a moving yearly Jet 14 Nationals too. Check out my sons #239 Jet 14 refurbishing video on YouTube at https://youtu.be/K5Kj6VjaLgE Ernie Michaud Jet 14 Class President

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JET 14 TUNING GUIDE

In this tuning guide we have tried to introduce a healthy dose of “why” we do certain things and what we are looking to accomplish with certain settings.

You will find that the settings on your particular boat will vary a bit from the numbers given here. The important thing is to keep an open mind and a sensitive touch on the tiller. With a bit of practice and by following the principles outlined on the next few pages you should find yourself going faster and getting the best performance out of your boat and North Sails.

Good Luck and Good Sailing!!

Basic Rig Setup

With the mast down, we want to adjust our spreader length and angle. These two things determine how much the mast will bend, and how easy the boat will be to power up in light air and depower in heavy air. Before stepping the mast check the following items:

SPREADER LENGTH

This dimension, measured from the side of the mast to where the shroud intersects the spreader. For most boats this length is 17 1/4”. The length of the spreader affects the side-to-side bend of the mast primarily. After stepping the mast and going sailing you will want to sight up the back side of the mast and make sure it is straight side to side from the deck to the hounds. This is very important: if the mast is sagging to leeward in the middle, shorten the spreaders until it is straight. If the mast bows to windward in the middle make the spreaders longer until the mast is straight.

SPREADER ANGLE

The angle of the spreaders affects how much the maximum mast bend will be. Heavier crews will want a stiffer mast and lighter crews will want a softer mast. The starting point for the adjustment on this setting is where the shroud is not deflected out of straight between the chainplate and the hounds. Heavier crews may set their spreaders so the shroud is slightly deflected forward (1/4 -1/2 ”)while lighter crews may deflect the shroud aft (1/4”). Check to make sure that the sweep aft on each spreader is the same so that the mast bends consistently from side to side. Another good check on spreader sweep is the spreader tip to tip measurement from shroud to shroud. This measurement should be close to 32”….. farther apart for heavier crews and closer together for lighter crews.

MAST BUTT LOCATION

The mast butt position is measured from the center of the centerboard pin to middle of the mast. The best starting point is 19 3/8”. Moving the mast butt forward will reduce prebend while moving it aft will induce prebend ( important in “encouraging” proper mast bend in light winds.) We strongly suggest using the keel stepped mast as it makes the development of proper prebend/mastbend much easier.

SHROUD ATTACHMENT LOCATIONS

For most boats position the shrouds close to 72” aft of the jib tack. This will help the main go out further downwind and allow the mast to bend easier fore and aft while providing more sideways stability. Different shroud positions will require different spreader settings to achieve the same mastbend from boat to boat.

MAST RAKE AND RIG TENSION SETTINGS

To start, attach a 25’ tape measure to your main halyard and pull and lock the halyard in the position where the main would be hoisted to the top band. If it is pulled all the way up the measurement will be too long. Measure down to the top of the transom.

In medium winds ( 5-10mph) with the rig tensioned to 150 lbs ( by the jib halyard and measured on the shrouds), we suggest setting up your shrouds so the rake is close to 20’ 8”. In winds of 10-15mph, tension the rig to 180lbs and check that the rake is close to 20’ 8 ½”. In winds of 15 plus tension your rig to 200lbs. In winds below 5mph set your rig tension to 80lbs. Lighter rig tension in lighter winds will allow more headstay sag and therefore make the jib a bit more powerful.

Check your Prebend:   At your medium wind setting your mast should develop approximately ½-3/4” of positive prebend. Sight up your mast’s luff slot to check this. Pull your main halyard ( or the tape measure if you’re checking your rake) along the backside of the mast and view the distance between the halyard and the back of the mast.

Block your mast,   or set your restricting lines to lock the mast in place at this ½- 3/4” prebend position.

Sight up the backside of the mast   and make sure the mast is perfectly straight side to side when the rig is tensioned in medium winds. If it is not you will need to check that the mast is centered in the boat…or more important centered through and above the mast partners at the deck. You may find it necessary to adjust the shrouds on  one side and add to the other to make the mast straight. The mast should be shimmed snugly side to side at the deck (yet still able to move freely fore and aft).

Now you are set up to go sailing in moderate breeze. The first thing to do when you go sailing is to again doublecheck the mast bend side to side. Sight up the back of the mast on both tacks and make sure the mast is straight from the deck to the hounds. If it sags to leeward shorten the spreaders. If it pops to windward lengthen them. This is critical to good boat speed.

With the boat hiked flat you want to have an absolutely neutral helm in the boat. You should just need finger tip pressure to hold the tiller. If the boat has lee helm consider raking the mast back. If it has weather helm raking the mast further forward may be in order.

The mainsheet is the throttle on the Jet and must be adjusted regularly to keep the boat going at top speed. The idea is to keep the top batten on the main parallel to the boom at all time and in under 7 knots of wind have the top telltale flying 70% of the time. If the telltale flies constantly the main is too loose. If it stalls all the time it is too tight. Trimming the main is a constant exercise in easing and trimming as the wind increases and eases.

In above 10-12 knots of wind the top telltale will fly all the time and the top batten should be nearly trimmed parallel to the boom.

The main cunningham controls the fore and aft position of the draft in the sail. Keep it loose until you begin to be overpowered and then tighten it to open the leech of the main by moving the draft forward in the sail. In light winds there should be 6-8” wrinkles perpendicular to the luff from head to tack. As the wind velocity builds the cunningham will be tightened until the wrinkles are minimized to just the lower ¼ of the main. In breeze above 18mph the luff should be nearly smooth.

In all but the very lightest conditions the outhaul should be tight when sailing upwind. In very light winds the outhaul will be eased until the foot is smooth and the shelf foot open about 1” in the middle of the boom. Downwind ease the outhaul about 2-3” to make the bottom of the main more powerful and to open up the shelf foot in the bottom of the sail about 3-4” in the middle of the boom.

The boom vang is used to hold the boom down when the mainsheet is eased and to bend the mast and depower the main in a breeze. Leave the vang completely slack until overpowered. Then take the slack out of it so that when a puff hits the main can be eased slightly with out losing leech tension. As the breeze picks up more (until constantly overpowered and the sheet is always eased) trim the vang much harder. This bends the mast and flattens the main and lets you play the mainsheet in the puffs with out loosing main leech or jib luff tension. The idea is that in very heavy winds, the vang is set hard enough that the mainsheet acts like a traveller and the need for an actual traveller is eliminated.

Downwind, you want to use the vang to keep the top batten parallel to the boom. Ease the vang substantially before reaching the weather mark to make sure you don’t break your mast or boom in a breeze. In some conditions, mostly light air and flat water, the vang can be quite loose with the top batten outside of parallel, which allows you to sail a bit by the lee. However be carefull! In heavy air this makes the boat unstable and can result in the dreaded “death roll”.

Many skippers in the Jet have eliminated the traveler, relying on vang tension to keep the main trimmed properly. With vang sheeting you tighten the vang to keep the boom down and the tension on the leech when the mainsheet is eased. For sure vang sheeting eliminates another the need for the traveler…just be sure you have a powerful, easily adjusted vang.

For those boats using a traveler, as the breezes builds and the boat gets overpowered it is helpful to drop the traveler until the helm of the boat is neutral and the boat is flat.

SHEET AND LEADS

To help judge the trim of the jib your North Jet jib has a leech telltale 1/3 of the way down the leech. The sail also comes with a trim line on the clew. To start set the jib lead so that the sheet is lined up with the trim lime on the clew of the jib. From there you will want to fine-tune the lead so that the telltales on the luff of the jib break evenly (watch through spreader window). Move the lead forward if the top luffs first. Move the lead back if the bottom luffs first. In heavy winds move the lead aft up to 2”.

Although many Jet sailors measure and set their leads by measuring from the tack to the sheet bearing point on the lead ( should be close to 82”), remember that slight differences in rake, jib lead position vertically and actual lead fittings make it difficult for this measurement to be accurate. The trim line is always accurate.

If it practical for you to move your leads laterally so they are 32” apart you will find better performance. Some Jet sailors have moved their leads as close as 29” apart. Tighter inboard leads allow the jib to be trimmed more eased at times without sacrificing pointing. This trim is more forgiving to steer yet still high and fast.

After getting the lead position correct, we want to trim the jib in so that the telltale on the leech is just on the verge of stalling. You will need to adjust the tension on the jib sheet constantly as the wind builds and eases to keep the telltale just on the edge of stalling.

The jib cloth tension should be tightened just enough so that there are always very slight wrinkles in the luff of the sail. In very heavy wind you will want to add tension and make the luff of the jib smooth to open the leech of the sail.

Spinnaker trim

Always sail your North spinnaker with a 6″ to 12″ curl in the luff. Careful concentration is necessary. Use short, smooth, in and out motions on the sheet

to keep the spinnaker trimmed correctly. Try to keep from jerking the sheet when the spinnaker begins to collapse! Set the pole so it is nearly perpendicular to the wind. A telltale on the topping lift a foot up from the pole works great as a reference.

Keep the clews even at all times through adjustments to your topping lift (pole). If the top of the spinnaker breaks high first, lower the pole. If the bottom luff breaks first raise the pole slightly. In light puffy conditions the pole height will be adjusted nearly as much as the sheet and guy!

Your North Sails are constructed out of the best materials on the market today. We make sure of this by testing every roll of cloth we use. Through proper care and maintenance your sails will give you the performance you have come to expect from a North Sail.

The most important factor for a long life for your sails is to watch them for signs of wear and tear in high load and chafe areas. Be sure to wash the sails off with fresh water and dry the sails thoroughly before storing. A dry, mild climate is best.

Excessive heat can cause problems with the sails due to the possibility of shrinkage. It is best to roll the mainsail and jib.

When hoisting and lowering the sail try to minimize the amount of creasing or wrinkling of the sail. Every time the sail gains a crease the cloth breaks down that much faster. Always have someone contain the leech and luff during these procedures. The battens can be left in the sail without any problems. Be sure to roll the sail down the leech so that the battens will not twist. This could cause damage to the battens.

Roll the jib keep parallel to the seams.

The spinnaker is fairly straight forward. Be sure to repair all tears and pulled stitches. Folding the sail when storing is best.

This tuning guide was compiled with the help from many National Champions’ assistance and represents the latest thinking on sailing a Jet 14 fast. Thanks especially to Brent Barbehenn.

Please give us a call if you have any questions. We look forward to helping you get the most from your new North sails. Good luck!

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Review of Jet 14

Basic specs..

The hull is made of fibreglass. Generally, a hull made of fibreglass requires only a minimum of maintenance during the sailing season. And outside the sailing season, just bottom cleaning and perhaps anti-fouling painting once a year - a few hours of work, that's all.

The boat equipped with a fractional rig. A fractional rig has smaller headsails which make tacking easier, which is an advantage for cruisers and racers, of course. The downside is that having the wind from behind often requires a genaker or a spinnaker for optimal speed.

CentreBoard

The Jet 14 is equipped with a centreboard keel. A centreboard keel is a pivoting lifting keel, allowing to sail both coastal and inland waters.

The boat can sail close to the beach as the draft is just 0.10 - 0.20 meter (0.33 - 0.63 ft) dependent of the load. See immersion rate below.

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Jet 14 is about 39 kg/cm, alternatively 223 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 39 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 223 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

Maintenance

This section is reserved boat owner's modifications, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Jet 14 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

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• Sailboat Guide

1960 Jet 14 Jet 14

• Description

Seller's Description

Mostly restored Jet 14 sailboat with trailer. Sails in poor condition.

Equipment: trailer

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Hull based on an earlier Uffa Fox INTERNATIONAL 14. Originally designed to be sailed with a sloop or cat rig.

This listing is presented by SailboatListings.com . Visit their website for more information or to contact the seller.

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JETWIND 14 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of JETWIND 14. Built by Sears, Roebuck & Co. and designed by undefined, the boat was first built in 1969. It has a hull type of Dbrd. Dinghy and LOA is 4.22. Its sail area/displacement ratio 65.34. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

JETWIND 14 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about JETWIND 14 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, contributions, who builds jetwind 14.

JETWIND 14 is built by Sears, Roebuck & Co..

When was JETWIND 14 first built?

JETWIND 14 was first built in 1969.

How long is JETWIND 14?

JETWIND 14 is 4.11 m in length.

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This page contains information that is current as of 1/2/2024 . Please contact the sellers directly for the most current information about a particular boat. To post or modify an ad, please contact the webmaster.

Please send in your pictures for the boat you are trying to sell.  Listings more than 3 years old will be removed. If your boat is removed, you can resubmit your information and have the boat re-posted.

Looking for a boat? Please see the Jet-14 buying guide for more information.

New Jet-14s Allen Boat Company 370 Babcock S Buffalo, NY 14206 (716) 842-0800

  #988

Glass Jet with nice top cover that can be used with mast up or down.  Needs a little work, a few fittings need replaced.  Comes with a trailer in great shape with extra wheels and tires.  Older Benson sails in good shape.  Motivated seller - boat must sell by the end of February 2020. Moving and can't take boat.

Wesley White (540) 379-8301

  #290 - $100

From the owner (Executor):

I am looking for a good home for my father's Jet-14. The boat is in Earleville, MD (upper Chesapeake Bay) and has been garage stored for as long as it has been in the family (1965!) We sailed it with him as kids through the 1970s (never raced) and it has not been used since then. It's a wood hull with wooden spars. Sails are original, with a spinnaker added in the '70s. I have an "Official Certificate" that shows the original owner as Chauncey Willis of Devon, PA (March, 1958) followed by my dad in May, 1965. Trailer is a Magnolia, titled in PA, but would need some work to be roadworthy. (Sorry I was unable to clean the boat, no running water!)

Gene Bentley III

  #118

From the owner:

I’m reaching out to the Jet 14 crew with an offer to sell my Jet hull number 118. Yes, that’s right, it’s an antique! I’ve owned it since High School 1972. It’s in excellent condition and has been stored indoors all the time. I can send pictures to the appropriate people.

Some quick statistics:

Built by Gibbs. 1958

Original owner Pam Rowe in Toledo, OH

2-masts, 2-booms, set of heavy air and light air sails.

I’m too old to sail her anymore and must find a loving home with a sailor who appreciates a beautiful piece of woodworking craftsmanship.

I live in Jackson, MI

Best regards,

Peter Kohler