anchor for sailboat

7 Best Sailboat Anchors

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

As long as it's the right one, your sailboat anchor is the best insurance you'll ever buy.

The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, your planned area of sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. So there are no shortcuts but to choose the best sailboat anchors based on these factors.

Anchoring, at its core, is all about securely fastening your sailboat using the best sailboat anchor so that it doesn't float away when the winds or tides start shifting.

And whether you're planning for a day's fishing trip to your nearest lake or going for an offshore voyage, an anchor is unquestionably essential in ensuring the safety of both you and your sailboat.

A good anchor not only gives you the much-needed peace of mind but gives you the ability to securely anchor your sailboat on a nice bay, grab a quick lunch, or explore the nearby reefs.

More importantly, you'll appreciate the importance of choosing the best sailboat anchor for your boat when you have to ride out a storm.

There are lots of excellent sailboat anchors that are a great fit for your boat. The most important is to understand what makes a high-quality anchor so that you can make an informed choice when buying the best sailboat anchor for you and your vessel. This will depend on things like the size and type of your sailboat, where you want to sail to, and the projected weather and the type of bottom of where you'll be sailing at.

Needless to say, there are a lot of sailboat anchors out there that it can be very confusing. In this article, we'll discuss how to choose the best sailboat anchor for your boat. More importantly, we've done thorough research and review the best sailboat anchors just to make the process of choosing the best sailboat anchor for you as easy as possible.

Table of contents

How to Choose the Best Sailboat Anchor

Choosing the best sailboat anchor on various things such as the type and size of your boat, the type of bottom where you're planning to anchor your boat on, the weather conditions, and many more. For example, anchoring a 24-feet sailing boat on a muddy bottom will not be the same when using the same anchor when anchoring a 49-feet sailboat on a rocky bottom. More importantly, choosing the best sailboat is all about finding the right balance in terms of the size of your boat, the type of the bottom where you're sailing at, the climate conditions, and the amount of time that you're planning to be anchored.

Here is what you need to consider.

The Size of Your Boat

The size of your boat will determine the type of anchor that's appropriate based on its weight and resistance. For example, a claw anchor can be great for boats measuring between 16 feet and 50 feet. In essence, having a bigger boat will require an anchor that is bigger and has more holding power. On the other hand, a smaller anchor with less holding power will be ideal for a smaller boat.

Your Anchoring Time

The holding power of your anchor can be affected by the amount of time you are planning to anchor your boat. If you're planning to anchor your boat for longer periods, it would make a lot of sense to have an anchor with high holding power. Differently, you can go with an anchor with less holding power if you're planning to anchor your boat for a few hours.

The Bottom Type

The shape and sharpness of an anchor will determine how good an anchor can hold your boat in different types of bottoms. For example, claw anchors can struggle in rocks and corals but work perfectly in sand and mud. On the contrary, grapnel types of anchors can work great in rocks but don't work in sand or mud. It all depends on the bottom type of the area you're planning to sail at. 

Anchor Material

The type of material used in manufacturing the anchor is of great importance in terms of its functionality, reliability, and durability. Most anchors are galvanized to prevent them from rust and also for a better price. However, stainless steel anchors offer better anchors in terms of quality and aesthetics.

Without further ado, let's jump straight in.

1. Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor

(Best for Larger Boats)

Although several modern types of sailboat anchors have taken the anchor industry by storm, some traditional anchor designs still hold their ground today and the Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor is one of them. It's designed with a single, sharply pointed wedge fluke that has a similar shape to a plow and really gets into the ground. It digs down and holds so secure for larger boats measuring over 21 feet.

This is a superb sailboat anchor that performs exceptionally well on most bottom types save for rocks. You'll love the fact that it holds extremely well in softer bottoms such as sand and mud. This anchor is made from high-grade manganese steel and is galvanized with a protective layer of zinc to prevent it from rusting. It's also more light than most anchors so stowing and transportation shouldn't be a problem.

Having been a hallmark anchor for many years, this anchor guarantees reliability and will hold excellently even in stormy conditions. Launching it is also easy thanks to its ballasted tip and streamlined shank and will set the first time thanks to its self-righting design.

• ‍ Perfect for larger boats
• Very durable
• Approved by several National Lifeboat Associations
• Comes with a perpetual guarantee against breakage
• Easy to launch
• Very secure
• ‍ Quite expensive
• Requires tripping line to release it from the seabed
• Not great for rocky bottom

2. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor

(Best for Changing Weather Conditions)

As the best-selling sailboat anchor currently available in the market, it's easy to see why the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor is the most highly rated anchor by multiple independent reviewers. Built for strength and versatility, this anchor works great with a wide range of boats, which is a very unique feature. Coming in sizes ranging from 9 to 606 pounds, this anchor is so versatile and gives you the option of choosing the right size for your sailboat.

This remains the most dependable anchor in the market, especially in the roughest of conditions. It holds all types of the seabed so fast and has a roll bar that's crucial in ensuring that your boat's weight is not only distributed appropriately but the boat sets at the right angle. Its Vulcan design and sharp tip allow it to snug fit on the bow and to get right into the seabed respectively.

This is an anchor that draws the best features from traditional sailboat anchors such as spade and bagel anchors to become one of the best modern sailboat anchors out there.

• ‍ Perfect for stormy conditions
• Great for all types of seabed
• Very versatile and available in a wide range of sizes
• Perfect for all types of boats
• It has an easy storage design
• It's designed by a well-known brand
• ‍ Very expensive
• ‍ Its shank is only perfect for  bigger flukes

3. Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor

(The Fastest Setting and Highest Holding Anchor)

If you're looking to purchase the best sailboat anchor from a well-established brand, look no further than the Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor. This anchor has been in the market for the better part of the last two decades and still holds its ground as one of the best sailboat anchors out there. The fact that it is perfect for all types of seabed makes it a great option for sailors who are on a budget.

This sailboat anchor has an indisputable reputation all over the world as the fastest setting and highest holding anchor. This is because it's uniquely designed for extreme holding conditions thanks to its standard bow rollers and a dual operation shank that's designed with the utmost versatility in mind. Whether you're looking to anchor in mud, sand, or rocky areas, this anchor will never disappoint you.

• ‍ It has an extremely high holding power
• It's the fastest setting anchor in the market
• It's perfect for all types of seabed including rocky areas
• Its safety is guaranteed as it has passed multiple tests
• It's very durable
• Designed for extreme weather conditions
• ‍ It's heavy, which can bring difficulties in stowing and transportation
• Very expensive

4. Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor

(Best for Smaller Boats)

At this point, you shouldn't have any doubt that some of the more traditional types of anchors still have a place in the anchor industry today. The Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor is a traditional fluke anchor that's extremely perfect for smaller boats but can also be used as a secondary anchor for larger boats. Having been developed in the US back in the 1940s, this type of anchor is similar to the modern CQR anchor and doesn't compromise on quality and reliability even in rough weather conditions.

It's lighter than most anchors, so stowing or transporting it shouldn't be a problem. In terms of its holding power, it has an excellent power-to-weight ratio and can hold quite fast in sand and mud. The fact that it is a fluke type of anchor makes it not perfect for coral, rock, or gravel bottoms.

• ‍ Perfect for smaller boats
• It's good for sandy and muddy substrates
• Lightweight and compact
• Has a holding power of about 600 pounds
• Constructed with high-strength galvanized steel
• Quite affordable 
• ‍ Not ideal for rock, coral, or gravel substrates
• Can only be used as a secondary anchor on larger boats (over 27 feet)
• It has moving parts

5. Lewmar Claw Anchor

(Best for All Types of Seabed)

If you're looking for the best sailboat anchor that will serve you perfectly in all types of substrates, the Lewmar Claw Anchor can be an ideal choice. Previously known as the Bruce or Claw type anchor, this anchor has a three-pronged design that enables it to easily set in any bottom. It doesn't matter whether you want to anchor in an area with mud, sand, rock, coral, gravel, or grassy bottom, this anchor will hold its ground.

It can be a great option if you're on a tight budget and want to buy an anchor that doesn't have a complete design while going about its duty quietly. It's so versatile thanks to the fact that it's available in sizes ranging from 4.4 pounds to 44 pounds. What's more; it's made from high-grade steel and it's very durable. If anything, it draws inspiration from the anchors used in securing oil rigs in the North Sea. 

• ‍ Excellent for all types of substrates
• It's very versatile
• It's durable
• It's very affordable
• ‍ Its odd shape makes it difficult to stow

6. Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor

(Perfect for Dense Grassy Bottoms)

The level of functionality that the Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor brings to the table is unmatched. This is an anchor that offers unparalleled holding power as it can dig a lot deeper than most anchors out there.

It's strongly built but can come apart to make it a lot easy to store and transport. Its sharp-headed nose gives it maximum penetration power, though it may not hold quite well in low viscosity sea beds. This anchor is highly dependable yet very expensive so it might not be an ideal option if you're on a budget. So if functionality is your top priority when going to an area with dense grassy bottoms, it can be your ideal option. 

• ‍ Very functional and dependable
• Perfect for dense grassy bottoms
• Easy to store and transport
• Made from high-quality steel
• Comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage
• ‍ It has moving parts
• It's very expensive

7. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta/Wing Boat Sailing Anchor

(Highest Quality Anchor)

One of the most important things when in the market for a good sailboat anchor is quality. Well, the Norestar doesn't disappoint on this front as it's manufactured using the highest quality stainless steel. This stainless steel is strengthened with micron thick PVD coating that gives it a highly urbane appearance.

Its design is also one of the most popular anchoring systems in the maritime industry today. This is because it offers impeccable security and gives you the peace of mind knowing that your boat is safe at all times.

• ‍ It is self-launching
• Made from the highest quality stainless steel
• It sets easily
• Perfect for most bottoms
• It's lightweight and has no moving parts
• ‍ Not ideal for bottoms with hard sand
• Quite expensive

There you have it; these are the best sailboat anchors in the market. An anchor is one of the most crucial parts of safe sailing. Whether you're looking to moor at the harbor or to explore far-reaching areas in the water, a good anchor is your number safety and insurance while on the water.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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Boat Anchor Selection Guide: Choose the Perfect Type & Size

When you buy a used boat, odds are it will come with an anchor, and with a new boat you'll usually get to choose an anchor for it. What if that old anchor you have on your new-to-you boat doesn't hold so well, or needs replacing? In any of those scenarios, you'll need to pick out a new anchor for your boat. There are more types of anchors that you dreamed of, and they're all different in how they perform in different anchoring conditions. And your anchor will need to be sized for your boat.

The type of anchor you choose depends on the predominant bottom types where you plan to sail, and what fits on your boat. Once you know the type, you get the perfect type and size of anchor from the length and weight of your boat using the manufacturers' recommendations.

On this page:

How does an anchor work, loads and forces on an anchor, anchor construction materials, most common anchor styles, how do i choose an anchor, what's in your anchor locker, picking the right anchor ground tackle.

Instead of getting overwhelmed, if you do a little research upfront on what you might need you can narrow down your choices and get the best anchor for your boat and where you use it.

While it may seem obvious at first glance, there are many mistaken assumptions about just how your anchor holds your boat to the bottom. It's important to understand just what your anchor does when it's holding your boat, so you know why you may choose one anchor or another.

All anchors dig into the bottom. Some have aggressive, plow-like forms or scoops which burrow in quickly, others have various hooks, spikes or protrusions designed to catch and hook as soon as the anchor is pulled.

Angle of attack provides holding power

The pulling force on an anchor is along the shank, and for an anchor to offer maximum holding power, it's crucial that the bulk of the load from the boat's pull is applied in this direction. If the pull is from the side, the anchor may break out. If the pull is from above the anchor, it definitely will.

Part of the role of the chain in your rode is to keep the rode flat on the bottom to make sure the loads from the boat are horizontal and along the direction of the shank.

Scope & chain provide angle and drag

Your anchor rode and how much scope you let out is as important to your choice of anchor to how well you hold. Chain has its own resistance to being dragged and adds extra holding, and as noted above, it also keeps the forces on the anchor from pulling it out.

The longer the scope, the better the angle of pull on the anchor. With a length of chain, the extra weight adds more holding the bottom, and a rope/chain rode gives extra shock absorption in the catenary of the rode.

You can learn more about how to select and install the right anchor rode by reading our detailed article here.

Orientation of anchors

Most modern anchors have a definite top and bottom, and will not set lying on their backs. These anchors flip and orient their blades down if they land the wrong way or break out. Many anchor designs dig in quickly with the anchor lying on its side, and may have roll bars or weights to keep them in a suitable setting orientation.

Some anchors, like grapnel anchors or the Bulwagga, had a radial symmetry and no true up or down. These don't need to reorient or right themselves. They will catch the bottom no matter how they lie, though not all the blades and hooks will help hold the anchor.

Good anchors will reset unnoticably

All anchors can break out and may get rolled as a boat swings at anchor and wind strength increases. An anchor's ability to reset is important. You don't want to drag long before your anchor sets again. With a good anchor, you won't even be aware it has broken out and reset, as it will happen quickly without your boat seeming to drag at all.

An anchor doesn't care at all about what kind of boat is on the other end of the rode, what it cares about is how much drag force is on the rode. A heavy boat in a light breeze may pull as hard on an anchor as a lighter boat in more wind. It's the force that counts, and you size your anchor by how much force you can expect to land on that anchor and rode.

Boat weight partially determines drag force

Your boat's weight is one of the two sources of drag force on your anchor. Heavier boats will pull more than light boats in the same condition. Many anchor vendors give tables of boat weight ranges which match to the best anchor size.

In wind, boat length is more important

Picture two boats with the same weight - a low-slung classic yacht with little freeboard , but a heavy full keel, and a more modern design with higher freeboard, less ballast, and about ten more feet of length. In windless conditions, they'll pull about the same against the anchor.

But in twenty knots of breeze, the longer boat with more freeboard will have a lot more pull. Here, the boat's length overrides the weight. A doubling of wind speed quadruples the load on the anchor, so this effect becomes more pronounced the higher the wind.

Anchors are made from three primary materials - galvanized steel , stainless steel , and aluminum .

Galvanized steel anchors are cheap

Galvanized anchors are the most common, as they are the least expensive, offer excellent weight, and are very durable and rugged. They can rust over time as the galvanization wears off, but provide the best cost to holding of all anchor construction material. You can re-galvanize an anchor at considerably less cost than replacing the anchor, if the original protection wears off.

Stainless steel anchors are expensive

Stainless steel anchors have similar strength to galvanized steel anchors combined with corrosion resistance. They look beautiful on the bow, but they are quite expensive at 3-5 times the cost of a similar galvanized anchor, and you'll want to pair them with a more expensive stainless chain. While they won't rust, they can get scratched and lose their shiny finish if you use them often. And there is a risk of crevice corrosion if stainless steel sits underwater too long.

Aluminum anchors don't rely on weight

Aluminum anchors are lightweight and strong, but may not have the holding power of heavier anchors of a similar size, and aluminum is not as strong as steel. They are popular with racers, and also for secondary anchors, because they are lighter and easier to handle. Aluminum anchors rely on bottom penetration to set, not weight.

The dozens of anchors available break down into a few general classes. Trying to organize all the choices by function helps you narrow the field to what may work best for you.

Claw anchor

Claw anchors, like the Bruce, have claw style blades to dig in and hold well for most conditions. They may struggle to dig in with a hard mud or clay bottom, but will reset well on other bottoms.

Plow anchor

Plow anchors are generally fixed, like the Delta, or have a hinge like the CQR. The fixed plows do well in everything but rocks, while the hinged CQR doesn't hold quite as well but responds better to the movement of the rode since there is a swivel.

Plow with Roll Bars

Modern designs like the Rocna and Spade incorporate a plow form on the blades, coupled with a roll bar. These have fantastic holding power and set easily. They don't fit as well on some older boats, and are more expensive.

Fluke anchor

The fluke anchors are great in mud and sand, but don't do as well with bottoms they can't penetrate or grass. The Danforth (and its clones) are popular with smaller boats, and the lightweight aluminum Fortress is a favorite with weight conscious ravers.

Fisherman's anchor

The traditional crossbar and hooks anchor is good for rocks. Some break down for storage, which makes them a popular choice for a storm anchor.

Grapnel anchor

Grapnels are fine anchors for dinghies, kayaks, PWCs and other small, light craft but don't do well with higher loads and larger boats.

Mushroom anchor

Small mushroom anchors can hold a small craft like a dinghy or kayak. Many permanent moorings are large mushroom anchors, where they can dig deep into the bottom. But they are not suitable for big boat use.

Other alternatives

This list isn't exhaustive. There is constant innovation in anchor technology, from the Bulwagga to various box anchors, which don't even look much like anchors as we think of them. All have their strengths and weaknesses, so research carefully and try to find someone with real-world experiences with them.

Remember, there is no "right" or perfect anchor, so look at a lot of options to see what fits your boating style.

The basic decisions you have to make about your anchor are the style, size, and material of your anchor. While we can't get into every type of anchor on the market and how it works for every boat, we can give you an overview of the decisions you must make.

What fits on your boat?

If you're adding a new anchor to an existing boat, you may have some natural limitations on what anchors you may choose.

With a bow roller sized for a plow or a nice Danforth bracket installed already, maybe those features limit your choices. You may switch between a CQR and a Delta with that anchor roller, but there's a good chance you can't fit a Rocna's roll bar up there without bending something. You could probably switch a Fortress out for a Danforth in that bracket, but you can not hang a plow from it.

Most anchor manufacturers give dimensional drawings of their products on their websites, so measure and even mock up something to see if it will go. On my boat, I shoved a Manson Supreme where a CQR went, but not without permanently bending a retaining pin. And I mocked the whole thing up in cardboard ahead of time to be sure.

Where will you anchor?

The range of where boat affects what to have in your bow locker. If you're a Chesapeake Bay sailor and you don't leave the bay, something that holds well in mud is a must and may be all you need. But a world cruiser needs something more effective across a range of bottom types.

Give careful thought to the places you’ll want to spend the night on your boat, especially the bottom types you'll find. In the end, you'll likely have more than one anchor, and you want to cover most of the holding types you'll encounter.

Choose your materials based on budget and style

This is a matter of budget and style, mostly. As a cruiser who spends almost every night at anchor, I can't see the sense of spending a fortune on a pretty anchor that spends most of its life hidden. But for some, adding that high gloss show to the bow of a Bristol condition yacht everyone can see most of the time, the aesthetic choice may make more sense.

When I raced, I had a Fortress because it met the requirements to have an anchor, but I ended up spending a couple of nights on it. It was easy to move around, but for vacations I still dragged the 35 lb. CQR out of the shed and put it in the bow locker.

Size your anchor based on boat length and weight

Sizing your anchor is most people's biggest worry. Remember, it's better to have too much anchor instead of not enough. You want to sleep soundly and leave your boat without worrying. If you're hauling your anchor up without a windlass, the extra pounds matter a lot more, but it's better to have extra.

It's not as hard as you think to size your anchor, because every single manufacturer publishes a guide to how to select the right product for your boat. Most of them have tables for boat length and boat weight, and we talked up above about how a boat's weight and windage affect anchor loads.

To size your anchor, follow these steps.

• Search the "by length" table for the length of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• Search for the weight of your boat, and note the recommended size.
• The correct anchor size for your boat is the larger of those two recommendations.

If they give a single number in the table, choose the next number above yours. If they use ranges and your boat is on the edge of a weight or length range, there's no harm in moving to the next size band. Don't move down bands; you don't want to undersize.

For an example, look at this sizing table for Spade Anchors. We've going to pick an anchor for a boat which is 53' long and weighs about 54,000 lbs.

Source: Anchor sizing chart on Spade Anchor USA

You'll see a boat length of 53' puts us at 59ft. and a 55 pound galvanized anchor. But by vessel weight, for 54,000 lbs., the recommended weight is 99 pounds.

So the larger of the two is 99 lbs., so that is the proper weight for this boat.

Most boats should have more than one anchor, so you will go through this process several times. You may need multiple anchors for the different bottom conditions you may come across. If you foul an anchor or lose one, a spare anchor and rode can literally be a lifesaver.

Other reasons for multiple anchors include a lighter anchor for a "lunch hook," though with an electric windlass this isn't much of a concern on bigger boats. You may want a smaller stern anchor in case you need to anchor where you don't want to swing, or it's important to keep your bow facing a direction other than into the wind. And finally, if you plan to cruise far from your home port, you may want a storm anchor.

Any of the anchor types we've discussed will fill many of the above roles, and you can use these tools to evaluate your boat and your plans to make the best choice for each job.

The next step is to select the right ground tackle. Ground tackle consists of everything that connects the anchor to your boat and is used to control the angle of attack, scope, and drag by adding or removing weight to the anchor.

I've written a detailed guide to help you to understand ground tackle in depth , which will help you select the perfect parts yourself.

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12 Best Sailboat Anchors for Any Sailor

Having the ability to anchor out inside a nice peaceful bay or right outside of a marina avoiding all the hubbub can be an amazing feeling.

It’s an even better feeling knowing that your sailboat is securely fastened using the best sailboat anchor so that you don’t start floating away when the tide or wind starts to shift.

There are a lot of amazing anchors out there that are potentially a great fit for you and your sailboat as a primary anchor.

Having a clear understanding of what makes a good, high-quality sailboat anchor from a trusted brand means you’ll be able to make a more educated choice when deciding which anchor is best for you and your sailboat.

The Best Sailboat Anchors

Depending on your style of sailing and the whereabouts you like to explore, you may need one sailboat anchor over another.

Based on my experience, there are a lot of great options out there to choose from, which is why I put together the following list of the best sailboat anchors.

1. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor

One of the best sailboat anchors out there today based on being the best-selling anchor for yachts and workboats goes to the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor .

As one of the pioneering brands for sailboat anchors, the Rocna Vulcan was able to transform from the original Rocna anchor to the most dependable, best anchor out there today.

The Rocna Vulcan is actually a modified version of the original Rocna anchor, which was one of the most groundbreaking anchors to have been engineered and set the stage for the Rocna Vulcan.

The original Rocna anchor was designed in New Zealand back in 2004 and took the industry by storm. By taking the best features from more traditional anchor types, like the Bugel anchor and Spade anchor, it was able to set itself apart.

The Rocna Vulcan has a lot of fantastic features to it apart from being a very strong and powerful anchor. For one, it has the ability to dig into almost any type of seabed, which comes in handy when sailing in diverse locations.

It’s also relatively lightweight and easy to stow due to it not having a roll bar like its older brother, the original Rocna.

Another great feature is that it has no moving parts, so no one’s fingers have the chance of getting pinched.

When it comes to the construction material of the anchor, the Rocna Vulcan is a galvanized steel boat anchor, which means it’s very strong, long-lasting, and relatively inexpensive.

The design of this sailboat anchor allows for it to self-right itself when landing on the seabed and when being pushed around by currents and tides. It also comes with a lifetime warranty, so it’s guaranteed to last the lifetime of your sailboat.

All in all, the Rocna Vulcan is a great choice for any sailboat looking to anchor out.

Regardless of where you are, it’s highly likely you’ll be able to use your Rocna Vulcan to anchor and feel good that you have a popular, well-designed anchor manufactured by a trusted brand.

If you’re serious about getting one of the best boat anchors, definitely check it out.

2. Manson Galvanized Supreme Anchor

As one of the most famous boat anchors that were released when the original Rocna anchor came out is the Manson Galvanized Supreme Anchor .

As a matter of fact, this anchor came out in 2003 and is well known to this day as being extremely effective due to having a very high holding power, an effective roll bar, and an ability to settle to the seabed quickly.

You certainly cannot go wrong with a Manson Supreme anchor if you decide to get one. They have very high holding power, are able to dig into almost any seabed, have no moving parts, and are able to touch the seabed quickly.

While their major advantages are definitely the holding power and fast settling, this comes at the price of being rather heavy which can make stowing this anchor difficult at times.

3. Lewmar Galvanized Delta Anchor

Even though there are a number of modern anchor types that have taken the industry by storm, some of the more traditional designs still hold their weight to this day.

That’s why the Lewmar Galvanized Delta Anchor  is still on the anchor scene, especially since it’s been a hallmark anchor for a very long time.

There are a number of good reasons to go with this anchor by Lewmar especially the fact that it has a strong holding power in softer seabeds (like mud and sand).

It’s also relatively lighter than other sailboat anchors allowing for easy stowing and transportation. Another great quality is that it’s all one piece, so there’s no potential issue of pinched fingers.

The only downsides include that it sometimes requires a tripping anchor line to release it from the seabed and that it’s not ideal for hard seabeds or seabeds covered in kelp.

4. Spade Anchor S120 Galvanized Steel

Another well-known, traditional design for anchors is the Spade Anchor S120 Galvanized Steel .

This type of anchor has been around for quite some time and has proven itself as a worthy contender to even the newer, more modern anchor types.

It certainly set the stage for a lot of anchor designs today and it continues to shine even today.

The Spade anchor is a very popular style of anchor that was designed in France back in 1996.

It was based on the delta style anchor design in a way to achieve a similar grip power to the seabed but by providing an even large surface area contact to the seabed.

This sailboat anchor is lightweight and can dig into soft seabeds quite well making it a great fisherman anchor for most fishing boats.

One of the downsides is that it sometimes Spade anchors needs the assistance of a tripping line to remove it from the seabed.

5. Lewmar CQR Anchor

Of all the more traditional anchors out there today, one of the most famous that really shook the anchor industry is the Lewmar CQR Anchor .

Before the more modern sailboat anchors, the CQR anchor (or the plow style anchor generally) was the go-to anchor for many yachts and workboats.

If you’re looking for a classic, time-tested anchor, the CQR might be the anchor for you.

The CQR anchor was designed in the UK way back in 1933 and has been one of the most well-known anchors out there. It was known to be so secure (and it still is), that it was named CQR because it sounded like “secure”.

This anchor’s relatively lightweight, digs into the seabed quite well, and is rather versatile in terms of the texture of the seabed it can grip.

However, it does have some downsides including it being oddly shaped so stowing is more difficult, it has moving parts, and it sometimes requires a tripping anchor line to remove it from the seabed.

6. Lewmar Claw Anchor

Another great anchor that’s been around for a while is the Lewmar Claw Anchor , which has been known as either the Bruce or Claw anchor in the past.

The strong reputation of Claw anchors has been well-known in the anchor industry for a long time and is further proven due to being manufactured by the trusted brand Lewmar.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is a fantastic anchor to own due to it being relatively lightweight, strong, and inexpensive.

As a matter of fact, it’s one of the best sailboat anchors anyone can buy since it has a lot of positive advantages like it has no moving parts and it’s easy to remove from the seabed.

The only downsides include it having an odd shape, making it a bit more difficult to stow, and not being the best when penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

7. Danforth S-600 Standard Anchor

There’s no doubt that even some of the traditional anchors still have a place in the best anchor category and that goes double for the Danforth S-600 Standard Anchor .

Similar to the CQR anchor, this anchor has been around for quite some time and was developed in the US back in the 1940s.

As a matter of fact, they were originally manufactured to be equipped with certain landing aircraft during WW2.

The Danforth anchor is an industry standard and has been a hallmark for many decades. They’ve been used as anchors for many types of vessels and are especially good for anchoring out in loose seabeds like sand or mud.

It’s also relatively lightweight and can be stowed easily since it’s pretty flat. Unfortunately, it has some moving parts to it, sometimes requires a tripping line to get it out of the seabed, and is certainly not ideal for more rocky seabeds.

8. Norestar Stainless Steel Danforth-Style Anchor

While the original Danforth anchor is a great choice for your next anchor, a step up in terms of quality is the Norestar Stainless Steel Danforth-Style Anchor .

While you’ll certainly spend a bit more money for this Danforth-style anchor, the design improvements ensure a safer anchoring and a longer-lasting product.

This Danforth-style anchor by Norestar provides all of the advantages of owning a traditional Danforth with some extras.

First, it has no movable parts so there’s no chance of pinching fingers while operating the anchor.

Second, it allows for anchoring off in seabeds that are rockier than the original Danforth can handle. It even comes in stainless steel, which means this anchor will last a very long time.

It does, however, still have the downside of at times needing a tripping line to release it from the seabed.

9. Norestar Stainless Steel Bruce Anchor

The Bruce anchor (also known as the Claw anchor) is a popular style of anchor that’s been used for a very long time.

There’s no question the Norestar Stainless Steel Bruce Anchor is a step up in the design of this anchor style, similar to how they improved the Danforth.

This Bruce/Claw anchor is a great choice for your sailboat’s next anchor since it has a good holding power for almost any seabed texture.

It’s also quite lightweight, has no moving parts, and it’s very easy to break it from the seabed.

Even better, it’s made out of stainless steel, so it’s built to last. Honestly, there aren’t too many downsides to this anchor apart from it being relatively expensive.

10. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta Anchor

The Norestar brand is amazing at taking the more traditional style of anchors and improving its designs to make them more attractive.

Well, they’ve done that once again with the Norestar Stainless Steel Delta Anchor .

The Delta anchor was already an improvement to the CQR anchor, but Norestar decided to take it to the next level.

The Delta anchor by Norestar is one of the highest quality stainless steel, delta-style anchors you could put on your sailboat.

Apart from it being stainless steel like the rest of Norestar’s anchors, it’s also lightweight, has no moving parts, and has a powerful holding power in softer seabeds.

However, it might not be the best sailboat anchor on seabeds with hard sand and it might require a tripping line to set it free from the seabed.

11. Mantus Galvanized Anchor

Some of the best sailboat anchors are originally derived from the more traditional sailboat anchors (in particular those with a roll bar), which is definitely the case for the Mantus Galvanized Anchor .

As one of the most well-known anchor types out there, this anchor manufactured by Mantus Marine stands out as a top contender for the best sailboat anchor.

This anchor by Mantus is produced with galvanized steel which makes it quite strong, inexpensive, and dependable.

With its uniquely designed roll bar, this sailboat anchor is able to properly land on the seabed when making its descent resulting in getting a better grip of wherever it ends up.

This anchor is specifically designed to break through dense grassy bottoms, so definitely a consideration when buying your next sailboat anchor.

12. Fortress Anchor

Sometimes it’s important to break free from the most well-known anchor brands and see what else is out there.

After stepping outside and digging into other anchor styles, I fell upon the Fortress Anchor , which is an aluminum fluke anchor that has a lot of common characteristics found in the traditional Danforth-style sailboat anchor.

The Fortress anchor has a very similar design to the Danforth but differs in the sense that it’s even more lightweight since it’s made out of aluminum magnesium alloy.

Some of the clear advantages that make this a candidate for the best sailboat anchor are that it settles quickly to the bottom of the seabed, it can be disassembled for easy storage, and it’s been tested to have double the holding power compared to its competition.

Downsides include movable parts, sometimes requiring a tripping line to remove it from the seabed, and not being ideal for rocky seabeds.

What to Consider Before Buying a Sailboat Anchor

We went over a good amount of high-quality sailboat anchors just now, so you should have a good idea of what anchor you might consider purchasing for your sailboat.

However, there are a few considerations to take into account before making that purchase, which is what we’ll cover now.

Construction Materials

You’ll find a number of different construction materials for anchors, like aluminum and steel, but by far the most common materials you’ll find is a metal anchor made of steel or aluminum alloy.

Galvanized Steel

Anchors made out of galvanized steel are often found to be less expensive and shiny compared to other types of anchor materials.

The great part is that they’re very strong and can last a very long time. Unfortunately, they’re prone to corrosion so it’s not uncommon to have to get them re-galvanized.

Stainless Steel

Anchors made out of stainless steel are very strong and aesthetically pleasing in terms of their appearance since it’s rather shiny.

You can’t go wrong with getting a stainless steel anchor, but you’ll definitely be forking over more money to get one.

Aluminum Alloy

Anchors made out of aluminum alloy are very lightweight compared to steel but often come at a much higher cost when going through the checkout line. However, when set correctly on the seabed, they’re known to have very high holding power.

Lakes vs. Coastal Waterways

Depending on where you’re sailing, you’ll need a certain level of strength to keep your sailboat from moving around while anchored.

Sailing in coastal waterways definitely requires a strong anchor than when sailing around lakes, so it’s generally advised to stick with the stronger anchors just in case.

If you know your sailboat will never leave the lake scene, go with a weaker (and thus cheaper) anchor.

Anchor Weight to Boat Length

You might’ve been wondering how strong your anchor should be based on the size of your sailboat.

Well, there’s no hard and fast rule to the exact strength (or weight) your anchor should have, but it’s definitely possible to determine a minimum weight to cover some worst-case scenarios when using your anchor.

A simple way to determine the minimum anchor weight of your sailboat is to subtract 5-10 lbs from every foot of your sailboat’s length overall (LOA). For example, if your sailboat is 40 feet long, then a 35 lb boat anchor would be a good weight.

This is a good rule of thumb when choosing an anchor weight for your sailboat, but should only be considered as an estimate and for minimum weight.

If the anchor you plan to purchase has a chart helping you decide on the proper weight to get, you should definitely follow that.

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Selecting the Right Anchor Size

Holding power increases with weight, but how much is hard to calculate..

Over the years Practical Sailor has conducted dozens of anchor tests, and like many publications, we’ve repeated the common guidance that cruising sailors should buy an anchor that is at least one size larger than what the maker recommends for your size vessel.

During the last two decades, however, the tremendous holding power of some newer generation anchors have caused us to re-think this guidance. Are we paying more for an anchor, rode, and the requisite anchor handling equipment than we need? How accurate are the makers size recommendations? How much insurance are we really getting for the price of a bigger anchor?

For this report we took a range of modern, sometimes called new generation anchors, and their predecessors and averaged their weight vs. vessel size recommendations (see accompanying table). Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and Spade.

Most of the new generation anchors have been tested to international standards established by the RINA (Registro Italian Naval) or some other internationally recognized society. Rocna, Fortress, Supreme, Excel, Spade have been found to meet standards of Super High Holding Power, SHHP. The older anchors, CQR, Bruce, Delta are rated as High Holding Power. The difference between the two categories is that the SHHP have been tested and found to have a hold, comparing anchors of the same weight, that is two times that of the HHP anchors.

So if we’re getting double the holding power, does that mean we can use an anchor that is half the weight? Not necessarily. Nor can you expect another doubling of holding power by doubling the weight of an SHHP anchor.

Despite the sales pitch that the new anchors have greater holding capacity pound-for-pound, the anchor makers are suggesting that you replace your old CQR with the same weight new anchor. It appears that manufacturers are, in effect, doubling the historic safety factor. And for a cautious sailor, there is nothing wrong with this.

However, consider the advice that is often repeated on internet forums, or the local scuttlebutt, that cruising sailors should increase one size over the makers recommendation. So instead of a 33-pound Rocna for your Tartan 37, you buy a 44-pound Rocna-now with potentially three times the safety factor of an old school anchor. Apart from the added significant expense, this obsession with upsizing – more anchor, more chain, bigger windlass-can also add potentially unnecessary weight and concentrate it in the bow.

So what do we really get with that bigger anchor? There is an idea that if you double weight of an anchor you will double holding power. Except with extra-large commercial anchors and some specific tests, we’ve found no data to support this.

No independent test, as far as we know, has taken a series of different sized anchors of the same design and tested them in the same seabed for ultimate holding capacity. Tests have been conducted on commercial oil rig anchors like the Bruce, and the best scaling is about 90 percent-double weight and you increase hold by 1.8 times.

The only recreational anchor that we are aware of that has undergone some testing to determine the relationship between weight and holding is Fortress (in mud only, see Anchoring in Squishy Bottoms, PS February 2015 ). An analysis of all their tests on a complete range of their anchor sizes suggest that if you triple weight you increase hold by slightly more than two times, approximately an 80 percent efficiency as size is scaled up.

Ultimately, this means that when someone tells you they can calculate the increase in holding power as you move up in size, be careful not to read too much into this conclusion. For one, the ratio used deserves close scrutiny. Surely, the bigger anchor will provide better holding-but how much? This hard to quantify, even with computer modeling. And no matter how accurate your calculation-a ratio based on performance in one type of bottom might not apply in another.

One reason you can’t claim that doubling the weight doubles the holding is that as anchors increase in size, the stress on the construction increases. To compensate for the increase in stress, the steel thicknesses must be increased – and more steel weighs more. So in an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power.

And as we’ve shown in our past tests-anchor dimensions (especially the fluke area) and shape can play a significant role in performance. It might be possible to double weight and double the holding power without beefing up the steel, but the resulting anchor would be less strong relative to its designed holding power.

Weaker construction might not matter on an over-engineered anchor. However, we have seen how the use of inferior materials has resulted in anchors that bend more easily at designed loads (see Anchor Tests: Bending More Shanks, PS May 2013 ).

Anchor Angles

In past reports, we’ve discussed in detail how anchor design can impact holding, especially with the new generation anchors ( see An Inquiry into Anchor Angles, PS February 2017 ). As you consider which design best suits your needs, here are some things to consider.

Fluke/shank angle. The fluke/shank angle is the angle between fluke and shank. It is one of the determining factors in how quickly and deeply an anchor sets. For a simple design with flat plate fluke and a straight shank (like a Guardian) the angle is a line down the center of the shank to the hinge and then along the fluke. In shanks with curves or angles, the first line is usually drawn from the shackle pin to the point there the shank meets the fluke.

For three-dimensional flukes (as found in most new generation anchors), you have to estimate where the top of the fluke plate lies. The ballast chamber or shank support that might protrude from the sole, such as with Spade, or Vulcan anchor should not be used to determine shank/fluke angle.

It is the fluke top surface that is important. In previous tests we reported that in thin mud an anchor with a fluke angle of around 45 degrees will outperform an identical anchor with its fluke angle set at 30 degrees. But a firmer sand seabed is entirely different, and research demonstrates the ideal fluke angle for a typical sand bottom is around 30 degrees (see Small Anchor Reset Tests, PS February 2013 ).

Fluke-seabed angle. This is the angle of the fluke to the seabed during the phases of anchoring-most importantly, during the initial penetration into the bottom, and when the anchor is set.

Penetration angle. When an anchor is aligned ready to set, or engage with the seabed (it might need tension on the rode to achieve this) then the fluke will usually be at an angle of 60-70 degrees to the seabed. Commonly the anchor is on its side.

Setting angle. Once the anchor starts to penetrate it will self align and the fluke plate tend quickly toward its setting angle, usually of about 30 degrees. It is coincidence that the fluke/shank angle and setting angle are similar though most anchors tend to show the similarity of the two angles. Center of gravity can have a great effect on penetration angle. This is why many new generation anchors, like the Ultra, have weighted flukes. Having a 30-degree fluke/shank angle is irrelevant if the center of gravity is in the wrong place.

Shank length

If you imagine a Fortress with a shank/fluke angle of 30 degrees but a shank three times longer than its original design, then you can visualize how the anchor will probably simply slide along the seabed when tensioned. The throat opening will be too small. Similarly if you chop the shank in half, the toe of the anchor will simply scrape along the seabed. In both case the anchor will find difficulty in engaging because the penetration angle will be wrong.

Are the makers of new generation anchors over-stating the need for bigger anchors, thus requiring boat owners to pay much more than they might need in order to be secure at anchor? Possibly. Would going with a larger-than-required anchor actually hurt your anchors performance? Unlikely. As is often the case with our anchor reports, it is hard to come with some firm answers regarding both of these questions. Anchor studies are fraught with variables.

In our view, it is no crime to go up one size over the manufacturers recommended size, if your boat and crew can handle it. The anchor may require more reverse throttle to set, but ultimately, it should provide the holding you require. Likewise, it is reasonable to assume that the anchor makers guidance for sizing is reasonable. However, if an online advocate starts telling you that youll get x times more holding power by going up one size, ask him for the data.

Extra weight in an anchor is your insurance policy. Yes, you can almost always get more security with the heavier anchor, but whether or not you will every need that extra holding power is not conclusive. In our view, conservative sizing is added insurance-but until the data is in, we remain skeptical of any absolute claims that attempt to quantify the advantages of more weight when choosing an anchor.

Based on average recommendations from leading anchor makers, the weight savings of upgrading to a second generation anchor doesn’t really pay off until you get into the larger size vessels.

In an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power. To compensate for the higher loads, the steel must be thicker, resulting in different surface area/weight ratios.

• As fluke size increases, so do the loads. But if the construction isn’t beefed up to handle the loads, the result is failure. Flat plate steel in this Danforth fluke sheered.
• The shaft of an Excel anchor bent during veer testing.
• The flat flukes of the Bugel anchor makes it easy to calculate the shank-fluke angle.
• Here a Rocna anchor is in the initial setting angle, still capsized on one side, with not enough of its toe is dug into the soil to dig in. Bottom shape and center of gravity (some designs are weighted to control CG), helps to determine this angle.
• This Manson Ray anchor has rolled upright and assumed the angle of penetration that will help the anchor to bury into the bottom.

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Best anchors: 8 new generation designs suitable for every boat

• Rupert Holmes
• January 27, 2022

Most boats would benefit from upgrading to a better anchor for a host of reasons. We take a look at 8 of the best anchors on the market right now

Securing your anchor do it is ready to drop could get you out of a tight spot when you can't sail out of trouble. Credit: Theo Stocker

Good ground tackle and understanding how to anchor properly opens up the option to stay overnight in stunning bays and creeks, away from costly marinas and expensive harbour moorings. And picking the best anchors is essential in terms of safety too as you may well need it to hold you off a lee shore in the event of engine failure.

However, unless your boat’s anchor has been upgraded recently, the chances are it’s of a type that will not provide good holding power.

What to look for in a good anchor?

Much has changed in the world of anchors in the past 20 years, which led to classification societies such as Lloyds adding a new Super High Holding Power certification category for these anchors in 2008.

Most of the best anchors exceed the requirements for this by a wide margin.

These advances in anchor technology and different types of anchor mean older boats won’t have been equipped with what we would now consider to be decent ground tackle when they were new.

This is also true for most vessels built in the last 20 years. Until recently the latest generation of anchors was relatively expensive, so were generally only fitted as standard equipment to very high quality yachts.

The various brands of today’s very high holding power anchors share a number of key characteristics that make them more effective than older products.

The best anchors tend to have a concave profile akin to the shape of a shovel. This digs more firmly into the seabed without tending to act like a plough when under load.

Another important aspect to look for in a good anchor is the tip weight, as loading as much weight here as possible is a massive help in enabling it to penetrate weed and other difficult types of sea bed.

Typical new generation anchors have 35-45 per cent of their weight on the tip. Some also have roll bars that prevent the anchor landing on the seabed upside down.

Whatever anchor you choose, beware of cheap unbranded copies. These rarely have the precise geometry needed to maximise holding power. Some are also badly cast and therefore weaker than the original design.

At a glance:

Note: We may earn a commission when you buy through links on our site, at no extra cost to you. This doesn’t affect our editorial independence.

7 of the best anchors on the market right now.

Rocna Galvanised Anchor

This was one of the first of the new generation of ultra high holding power anchors and quickly gained much acclaim, despite an initially high price tag.

The Rocna is well engineered and has an excellent reputation for digging in quickly and easily. Once set it then offers excellent holding.

A roll bar is incorporated, but a downside of Rocnas is they do not stow neatly on all bow rollers.

To solve this problem the company developed the Vulcan series, which doesn’t have the roll bar and is shaped to fit on a wider range of bow rollers.

Reasons to buy:

– Good quality anchor

– Excellent holding power

Reasons to avoid:

– It is expensive

– Do not stow neatly on all bow rollers

Specifications:

– Size: 96 x 41 x 39 cm

– Weight: Available in 10kg, 20kg and 25kg

Buy it now on Amazon.co.uk

Buy it now on Amazon.com

Buy a Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.co.uk

Buy a stainless steel Rocna Vulcan on Amazon.com

Lewmar Stainless Steel Epsilon Anchor

Read PBO’s Lewmar Epsilon review

The latest model from this UK company offers the benefits of a new generation anchor at very attractive prices.

It has a winged design with concave flukes to maximise holding power in a variety of sea beds, a ballasted tip that enables it to dig in readily and is self righting, even though the roll bar is optional.

The Epsilon is intended as a direct replacement for Lewmar’s long-running plough style Delta anchor.

Although the Epsilon’s shank is proportionately shorter, the two models share the same basic shank geometry. Therefore, if a Delta fits your bow roller then an Epsilon will also fit.

– Easy to handle

– Designed to fit any bow roller that works for the Delta

– It has a shorter shank

– Size: ‎55 x 35 x 30cm

– Material: stainless steel

– Weight: ‎6.1kg

Buy it now on eBay

Buy it now from Amazon

Buy it now from West Marine (US only)

Fortress FX-11

This aluminium anchor is an older design from more than 30 years ago, but still has a number of advantages that makes it an excellent choice in some circumstances.

It’s biggest feature is very light weight relative to the holding power the anchor provides. This makes it a perfect option for performance catamarans and trimarans, as well as for smaller fast motor boats.

The key downside, however, is that the holding power is achieved through the surface area of the flukes, not the weight of the anchor. This means it’s physically larger than other anchors, although it comes apart like the Spade for easier stowage.

A neat feature is that the angle of the flukes can be varied to suit different types of sea bed.

– Perfect for catamarans and trimarans

– Easy to manoeuvre thanks to its light weight design

– Flukes can be adapted to the type of sea bed

– Larger than other anchors

– Holding power is from the surface area of flukes

– Size: ‎73.66 x 15.24 x 7.62 cm

– Material: aluminium

– Weight: 8 pounds

Spade Anchor S series

This is another popular modern anchor, but with an important difference to other brands.

The hollow shank can be removed to make stowage easier. This makes it an excellent choice for racing yachts and other vessels that don’t permanently keep the anchor on the bow, or for occasional use as a kedge.

There’s no roll bar, but the tip loading is close to 50 per cent of the total weight, which helps it to dig in and set quickly.

The main drawback of the Spade is one of cost – it’s more complex to manufacture than other designs, so the price is relatively high.

– Good option for racing yachts

– The hollow shank can be removed

– No roll bar

– Expensive

– Size: S40 to S160

– Material: galvanised steel

– Weight: 6kg to 55kg

Buy it now from Jimmy Green Marine

Knox Anchors

Professor John Knox spent a great deal of his spare time researching the loads on anchors and rodes.

His work in this area over a period of 20 years contributed a huge amount to our understanding of anchoring and precise causes of anchors dragging or breaking out.

It also led him to develop his own design of anchor that would offer significantly better performance compared to the popular models at the time. It was therefore one of the first of the new generation designs.

The Knox anchor has a patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle that enables it to dig into the seabed quickly and efficiently.

It’s fitted with a roll bar and, while the shank is made of the highest tensile strength steel available.

– Made of the highest tensile strength steel

– Patented divided fluke with sharpened edges set at an angle to dig into the seabed

– We can’t find any

– Material: highest tensile strength steel

– Weight: 6.5kg to 27kg

Buy it now from Knox Anchors

Stirrup Anchor Bugel Anchor

The Bügel was one of the very first new generation anchors and quickly set a new benchmark in the industry.

It has a flat fluke with lower surface area than later designs, plus a roll bar and a shank made of thick plate.

This makes it a relatively inexpensive anchor, which is undoubtedly a key factor behind its enormous popularity, even though later products offer higher holding power.

– Good value anchor

– It features a rollbar and shank

– Other products offer higher holding power

– Size: 66 x 28cm to 86 x 38cm

– Material: Hot-galvanised steel

– Weight: 9 to 16kg

Buy it now from compass24.com

Manson Supreme Anchor

This was the first anchor to receive Lloyds Super High Holding Power certification when the classification was introduced in 2008.

It’s a fabricated design that uses two layers of steel for the fluke and relies on a roll bar, rather than a ballasted tip, to self-right.

The upper slot in the shank is intended for use in rocky sea beds, or anchoring in coral . The idea is that if the anchor becomes stuck the rode can be slid to the shank end of the slot, enabling the anchor to be retrieved without using a tripping line.

The shape of the anchor is designed to fit all conventional anchor rollers.

– Good for use on a rocky sea bed

– The anchor fits all conventional anchor rollers

– Other products offer innovative designs compared to this classical anchor design

– Size: 18′ – 30′ to 40′ – 45′

– Weight: 7kg to 20kg

Buy it now from Marinesuperstore.com

Ultra Marine Ultra Anchor

Read Yachting Monthly’s Ultra Anchor review

Our sister title Yachting Monthly recently tested the new 12kg Ultra Anchor from Ultra Marine over several nights at anchor.

Editor Theo Stocker said: “I was impressed with how quickly the anchor set.

“While our normal 10kg Bruce anchor can struggle in soft sand and weed, the Ultra anchor buried itself almost completely and refused to drag.

“The Ultra’s performance amply delivers on its maker’s promises as is comparable to other stainless anchors,” he concluded.

– Handmade and hand-polished stainless steel

– Ready to dig in

– Not the cheapest option on this list

– Weight: 5kg to 8kg

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Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type

There are a number of boat anchors available, constructed of different materials, and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors,  how to choose the best anchor for your boat, the most common material types, and also give an overview of different naming conventions.

Quick Anchor Style Summary

Video: Choosing an Anchor Type

Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article discusses a few more anchor types and provides some useful links.

Quick Summary Boat Anchor Recommendation

For most boaters , a Bruce or Delta is the best balance between price and performance. Both perform similarly and are similarly priced (Narrowly, the Bruce/Claw is our favorite of the three). If you've used a Danforth in the past , and you have had luck with it, choose a Danforth. If you've never used one before and if your setup allows it, choose a Bruce or Delta instead. If you're a blue-water cruiser , choose a CQR, or consider one of the new generation of anchors discussed below.

Boat Anchor Names: Trademarked Names and Generic Names

A special note is needed on the naming of anchors. Many anchors have a trademarked name, such as a   Bruce   or CQR, and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as how Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopier and how Aspirin is a trademarked name for pain killer. Trademarks effectively never expire whereas design patents expire after approximately 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name.

Bruce™ Claw Anchor

The   Bruce, or Claw, remains one of the most popular anchors among recreational boaters in North America. This is our anchor of choice as well.

The   Bruce   was developed in the 70s by the Bruce Anchor Group. Once their patent expired in the early 2000s, they stopped production of this anchor but many imitations have come along since.

The  Bruce  is an excellent all-purpose anchor as it performs well in most sea bottoms including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has a harder time penetrating harder surfaces, such as clay, and bottoms with heavy grass. The three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. It also resets easily if it is ever broken loose. On the downside, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll usually need a larger anchor than say the  Delta/Wing .

Pros:  Performs well in most conditions. Sets easily. Cons:  Awkward one piece design. Lower holding power per pound. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in hard bottoms such as clay, or heavy grass.

CQR™/Plow   &   Delta™/Wing Anchor

Both the CQR/Plow and the Delta/Wing are a plow style anchor. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design whereas the Delta is a one piece design.

The   CQR   is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 30s and to this day, it remains one of the most popular anchors among blue water cruisers. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and it consistently struggles in independent tests. It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25 lbs lending itself to the saying “There’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinged design makes it more responsive to wind and tide changes as compared to other anchors.

The   Delta   is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce).

Both the   Delta   and the   CQR   perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock.

Pros:   Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers. Cons:   Hinged design can make stowage awkward. "No such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor". Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; struggles in rock.

Danforth™/Fluke Anchor

The  Danforth , or Fluke anchor, remains a very popular anchor choice. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke style anchor, different from the  Danforth  in that it comes apart and it constructed of light-weight, high-strength, aluminum.

The Fluke performs well in mud and sand, potentially the best of any anchor style. The downside is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Therefore, it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are comprised of.

Whether or not it is used as a primary anchor, a Fluke anchor makes an excellent choice as a secondary or stern anchor.

Pros:  Performs well in mud and sand. Stows easily on most bow rollers. Cons:   Does not perform well outside of mud/sand. Bottoms : Top performer in mud/sand. Performs poorly in other bottoms.

Spade Anchors

There are several anchors on the market today that feature a sharp fluke and a roll bar. These include the   Rocna and Manson Supreme.

Each of these anchors are essentially a variation on a plow style anchor. If you look at the plow portion of these anchors, you can see they are a lot sharper than traditional plows like the   Delta/Wing   and CQR. Analogous to a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the sea bottom a lot easier and deeper than the other anchor styles, hence the name for these anchors: "spade". The roll bar helps orient the anchor upright when setting.

These anchors have performed   extremely well in third party tests . The biggest downside to these anchors is that because they are still patented, they can be very expensive. The roll bar along with the elongated fluke can also make storing these anchors on bow rollers difficult.

Pros:   Very high holding power for many models. Cons:   Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expense. Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; less effective in rock

Grapnel   and Other Small Craft Anchors

A  Grapnel anchor  is generally used for small boats such as Kayaks, Dinghies, Canoes, etc. It’s also popular with fishermen.They fold up very compactly and are easy to stow. A Grapnel’s holding power comes from hooking onto another object, such as a rock. When it does hook, it can create immense holding power, which can also make retrieving the anchor difficult.

Pros:  Great for use as a lunch hook. Folds to allow for compact storage. Cons:  Not appropriate for non-temporary anchorage. Bottoms: Rock or other situations when it can hook onto an object.

Mushroom Anchors

Large Mushroom anchors  are often used for permanent mooring buoys. As the silt from the sea-bottom builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10 times the holding power of its actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the mushroom anchor is an excellent choice, however, it is not as useful in some temporary anchoring situations. An exception is that smaller versions of these anchors are good for use in small boats for anchoring while fishing or for a lunch stop over silty bottoms where the mushroom can penetrate.

Pros: If large, great for permanent mooring buoys. If small, good for use while fishing or for a lunch stop. Cons: If large, not appropriate for non-permanent moorings. If small, only good in soft bottoms. Bottoms: Silt, soft mud, unpacked sand.

Boat Anchor Material Types

Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Most of the traditional steel anchors we are accustomed to seeing are likely either mild or high tensile steel. Mild steel and high-tensile steel are nearly indistinguishable from one another appearance wise. However, high tensile steel is 2-3 times stronger than mild steel. This isn't to say that a high-tensile steel boat anchor has 2-3 times the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will nonetheless be stronger.

Both mild steel and high-tensile steel anchors are not corrosion resistant, and therefore need to be galvanized to prevent rust and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Galvanization has a tendency to wear down over time, but an anchor (as well as nearly any other steel product) can be re-galvanized.

Stainless steel is identical to galvanized steel in terms of holding power but differs significantly in appearance. The shiny gloss is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and galvanized steel. Stainless steel is also very corrosion resistant and will resist most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers describing stainless steel as either 316 Stainless or 304 Stainless. 316 is a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It also more expensive.

There are some anchors constructed from high strength aluminum, such as the Fortress. These anchors are extremely lightweight while still offering high holding power. These anchors rely on bottom penetration for most of the holding power, and therefore, if they are not set, they provide little to no holding power.

Published May 08, 2018

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How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

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Anchor Selection: A Guide to Types and Sizes

Anchoring is a crucial aspect of boating, and the right anchor can provide stability, safety and peace of mind for any sailor. Choosing the correct type and size of anchor is essential, as it can greatly impact your overall experience on the water. This guide will outline the various types of anchors available, their ideal uses, and how to choose the right size for your boat.

Understanding the Purpose of Anchors

Anchors serve multiple purposes in boating:

• Holding power : Anchors are designed to provide holding power by digging into the seabed and creating resistance, preventing the boat from drifting.
• Temporary mooring : When a boat needs to be stationary for a short period, an anchor is used to secure it in place.
• Emergencies : Anchors can serve as a safety measure in emergencies by helping to control your boat’s movements in rough weather or if the engine fails.

Types of Anchors

There are several types of anchors to cater for various boating requirements and environments. The primary ones include:

Plow Anchors

Originally designed for large ships, plow anchors resemble a plowshare and offer excellent holding power in most bottom conditions, especially sand and mud. They work by digging into the seabed and maintaining a consistent grip. Plow anchors are popular among cruisers due to their adaptability, and they can handle a variety of wind and current changes.

Danforth Anchors

Also known as fluke anchors, Danforth anchors boast superior holding power in proportion to their weight. They’re characterized by their flat, sharp flukes and long shank that allows them to dig into soft substrates like sand and mud. However, Danforth anchors may struggle with rocky bottoms and can be challenging to set in grassy or weedy seabeds.

Claw Anchors

Claw anchors, also known as Bruce anchors, have three claws that provide holding power in a variety of bottom conditions. Due to their versatile design, they re-set easily when the boat’s position changes and can function with shorter scope, which is the anchor rode (chain or rope) payed out relative to the water’s depth. These factors make claw anchors popular among boaters, though their holding power may be less than that of plow or Danforth anchors.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom anchors are useful for small boats in relatively calm conditions. As the name suggests, they’re shaped like a mushroom and utilize their weight to create a suction effect, embedding themselves into soft bottom substrates like silt or mud. However, they generally offer limited holding power in stronger currents or wind.

Choosing the Right Size Anchor for Your Boat

Selecting the appropriate size anchor for your vessel involves considering factors like boat weight, size, and the windage (resistance to wind). Generally, anchor manufacturers offer recommendations based on boat length, but it’s essential to factor in your specific boat’s requirements and typical anchoring conditions.

Anchor Weight

Anchors are typically sized by weight, ranging from a few pounds for small vessels to several hundred pounds for large yachts. The rule of thumb is that the heavier the boat, the heavier the anchor should be. However, it’s important to consider the type of anchor you’re using, as the holding power varies across anchor designs.

Boat Length

Boat length is another crucial aspect to consider when selecting an anchor size. Consult manufacturer guidelines on their recommendations for anchor sizing based on boat length.

Chain and Rode Size

The anchor rode, which connects your boat to the anchor, is critical for holding power. The scope, typically measured in a ratio of the rode’s length to the water’s depth, is an important factor for the anchor’s performance. A common recommendation is using a 4:1 scope for temporary mooring and a 7:1 scope for overnight anchoring. Ensure the chain (the section of the rode closest to the anchor) is of suitable size and strength to prevent it from breaking under strain.

Final Thoughts

When selecting an anchor for your boat, it’s essential to consider the type, size, and the conditions in which you’ll be anchoring. Consult manufacturer guidelines and conduct thorough research on the options available to make an informed decision. A properly sized and suited anchor will offer peace of mind, ensuring your vessel remains securely moored during your adventures on the water.

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Boat Anchor Types: A Complete Guide

Table of Contents

Last Updated on January 11, 2024 by Boatsetter Team

To live out your boating dreams, it is important to ensure your  safety  and ensure that you have the best anchor. Anchors are essential for any boating activity and crucial for any experienced or amateur boater. By mastering the fundamentals of safe anchoring, you will safeguard your boating experiences from any accidents or anxiety. This guide will help you choose your ultimate anchor and provide tips for choosing which boat anchor is right for you. After choosing the anchor that is your right fit, you will be able to have smooth sails ahead and enjoy a stress-free time with friends and family.

Knowing the Ropes

Knowing your whole anchor system will be essential in shopping for an anchor. The anchor system is comprised of the chain, rope, shackle, and deck cleats along with the anchor. Each of these items must deliver the quality, performance, and strength that you need to anchor your boat .

Your Anchor Line: The Anchor Rode

Using a short anchor chain and three-strand nylon line will greatly reduce loads of shocks on your boat and the anchor system. Nylon is very elastic and helps reduce shockwaves or damage to the boat. Avoid anchor rodes that use all chains because they will lack the shock-absorbing qualities of nylon rope when the winds increase. The chain protects the line from chafing on the seabed.

If regularly anchoring in 25-ft of water or less, use 6 ft of chain. In greater depths, use an additional 6 ft for every 25-ft of water depth.

Holding Power

You have to make sure that the  anchor  you choose will support the boat you are operating and will fit the conditions of the environment you will be boating in. Choosing the right anchor for the type of boat you operate and the type of wind conditions you will be encountering is essential for boating safely. You must be certain that your anchor will be able to hold your boat. Here are three different types of anchors and rules of thumb for the durability of an boat anchor.

• Lunch Hook:  This anchor should hold a boat in a 15- knot breeze.
• Working Anchor:  This anchor should hold up to 30-knots of wind.
• Storm Anchor:  This anchor is for winds up to 42-knots of wind.

It is important to remember that as a general rule, when the wind speed doubles, the holding requirement quadruples. Be mindful of holding power requirements for different wind speeds, and use this information as a rule of thumb!

Know Your Scope

The scope is the length of the anchor line in relation to the distance of your boat’s deck to the bottom of the sea. Understanding scope is critical in anchoring and boating safely. The scope’s ratio should at least be 5:1, length to distance. When the scope increases, the anchor’s horizontal pull will also increase, which can help dig the anchor deeper into the sea bottom. When the scope decreases, the anchor’s pull will become more vertical. This can cause your boat to disturb and dislodge your anchor, especially at the height of a wave or during high tide.

If the scope’s ratio is less than 3:1, you are at risk of giving away a significant amount of control. Remember to set your anchor at a 5:1 initially. Afterward, you may shorten the scope as needed.

Power Setting the Anchor

To ensure that your anchor is thoroughly buried into the sea bottom, it is best to “Power Set” it. When you start setting the anchor into place, begin to lower it slowly into the water. As the anchor begins to descend deeper into the bottom, slowly begin to increase your anchor load with your engine to make sure it is securely buried. Remember that if you back off at any speed, you might not give the anchor a chance to bury itself into the sea bottom and ensure anchoring. You can follow and mimic the force of the wind by using the engine’s thrust to set the anchor to a predetermined load. By matching your boat’s total maximum horsepower and hull type , you can determine to what extent your boat can “Power Set” your anchor.

Anchoring in Soft Mud Bottoms

If you are anchoring in a soft mud bottom, this will greatly reduce your holding power compared to harder soils or sands. If you encounter a problem setting your anchor in this environment, then try setting the anchor at a very short scope at first. This initial scope could be a 2:1 ratio. When the anchor begins to dig in and set, slowly increase the scope to a greater ratio. An example of this could be a 5:1 ratio. Then, try to power set the anchor.

Special “mud palms” can be installed on your anchor, and it is recommended that you permanently install these “mud palms” to set your anchor in any type of bottom.

Retrieving the Anchor

Start by slowly moving the boat into a position that directly hovers over the anchor, pulling in the line as you go. When you are directly above it, shorten the line on a cleat and slowly power backward to pull the anchor out of the bottom. Do not power forward since this will require way more energy and put heavy loads on the anchor and support system.

A Summary of Anchor Types: Choosing the Right  Style  for You!

Claw anchors.

The Claw Anchor is one of the most popular anchors among boaters in North America. This anchor is a dynamic anchor that performs well in many sea bottoms, including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has more trouble digging into harder surfaces like clay and dense grass. It has a three-claw design and sets and resets easier than other anchors. On the other hand, it has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors.

The Wing and Plow Anchor

The Wing Anchor is a hinged anchor. The Plow Anchor also has a hinged design, but the greatest difference between the Plow and Wing is that the Wing is a one-piece design. The Plow Anchor is one of the most popular anchors among bluewater cruisers despite having low holding power. However, the hinged design makes it more responsive and durable to environmental elements.

Delta Anchor

This anchor is an excellent choice for anchors that are going to be used repeatedly during stormy conditions. The self-righting design allows it to set quickly and the ballasted tip ensures that it stays in place. The Delta anchor can be said to be the most popular anchors among boats today and is the standard for boat manufacturers . Regardless of whether you want a boat anchor for a sailboat or for a pontoon boat, be sure to choose this one.

The Fluke Anchor

The Fluke Anchor is also a popular choice among boaters. The Fluke Anchor is constructed of lightweight, high-strength aluminum. The Fluke Anchor performs well in mud and sand, perhaps better than any other style. On the other hand, if not in mud or sand, The Fluke Anchor is not the best performer.

The Plow Anchor with Roll Bar

There are several Plow Anchors with roll bars that are essentially variations on the plow style anchor. The Plow Anchors with roll bars are a lot sharper than traditional Plow styles. Since the roll bars create a distinct sharpness, they can penetrate the sea bottom much easier than other anchor styles. The roll bar also helps the anchor orient itself when setting. The only downside is that these anchors can be very expensive and difficult to store.

Grapnel and Small Anchors

The Grapnel Anchor is used for small boats such as Kayaks, Canoes, etc. It is a favorite among fishers and is compact and easy to store. Grapnel’s hook onto another object for holding power yields immense holding power but can create difficulty retrieving the anchor.

Mushroom Anchors

Mushroom Anchors are often used for mooring buoys permanently because of their extreme holding power that can often hold ten times its actual weight. Silt from the sea bottom builds up over these anchors and results in this extreme holding power. However, this anchor type is not useful in temporary anchoring situations and makes more sense for permanent mooring. The exception is smaller versions of the Mushroom that can be used for small boats and anchoring while fishing.

Anchor Materials

The most common anchor materials are mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum. Most anchors are mild/high-tensile steel. High-tensile steel is about twice as strong as mild steel, but that is not to say that it has a higher holding power, just that it is stronger. These are not corrosion resistant and need to be galvanized to prevent rust. All anchors need to be galvanized and can be pre-galvanized to prevent erosion.

Once you identify your needs and what fits best for you and your boat, you will be able to safely anchor at any desired destination!

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The 5 Best Sailboat Anchors

A good anchor for a sailboat will help keep a vessel stationary and stable in the water in any weather conditions or marine environment.

There are a number of top anchors for sailing boats that can work on sailboats of both small and large sizes of under 20ft to over 100ft.

The best sailboat anchors are:

• Best Overall : Mantus Marine M1 Mantus Anchor
• Best For Holding Boat : Lewmar Claw Anchor
• Best For Price : Seachoice Utility Anchor
• Best For Small Sailboats : Fortress FX-11 Anchor
• Best For Large Sailboats : Rocna Galvanized Anchor

These anchors will ensure the sailboat is anchoring properly in any sailing conditions.

Sailboat owners should choose an anchor based on the size and type of their sailboat as well as the type of marine environment their vessel will be located in.

For example, anchoring a sailboat on a sandy surface is different than anchoring a sailboat on a rocky surface and it will require different anchors.

1. M1 Mantus Galvanized Anchor

The best overall sailboat anchor is the M1 Mantus anchor manufactured by the brand Mantus Marine in Texas, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best overall anchor because it can dig deep into the seafloor and ensure the sailing vessel will not float away.

The M1 Mantus anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel with the shank and shank boot welded from top to bottom.

It is a plow anchor shaped with a sharp triangle-shaped nose, a straight shank and a "U" shaped roll bar bolted to a fluke.

This anchor comes in many different sizes from 8lbs to 175lbs. It comes with 4 American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) certified bolts.

The M1 Mantus anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sandy, gravel, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky sea floors.

The M1 Mantus can be used in different types of locations including rivers, sea and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 20ft to 65ft can use the M1 Mantus anchor.

The M1 Mantus anchor is priced between $180 for the smallest 8lb anchor to approximately $3,000 for the largest 175lb anchor at most retailers.

The M1 Mantus anchor works to hold a vessel in position in winds of up to 40 knots, highlighting its great holding power abilities.

The benefits of the M1 Mantus anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Mantus Marine manufacturer offers a lifetime warranty on this anchor for added peace of mind
• It can be disassembled easily for storage : Simple disassembling bolts make it easy for storing this anchor when it is not in use
• Multiple size options : With anchor size options from 8lbs to 175lbs, sailboat owners of different vessel sizes, from small sailboats of 20ft to large sailboats of 65ft can use this anchor
• It works in multiple marine conditions : This anchor works in multiple marine conditions from calm ocean currents to extremely windy and storm conditions with up to 40 knots of wind speed
• High-performance sharp head nose enables easy penetration of the sea floor : The sharp edge nose of this anchor means it penetrates the ocean floor fast and with ease
• It is hot dipped galvanized for corrosion prevention : This anchor is hot dipped galvanized giving it extra protection against corrosion and wear from corrosive seawater
• It comes with 4 high-quality oversized A.S.T.M. certified bolts : This anchor comes with 4 oversized bolts with a large margin of safety that will help prevent damage

One disadvantage of the M1 Mantus anchor is it is more expensive than other anchors on the market.

M1 Mantas Anchor On Amazon →

M1 Mantas Anchor On eBay →

2. Lewmar Claw Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for its holding power is the Lewmar Claw anchor manufactured by the brand Lewmar in Hampshire, United Kingdom and sold worldwide.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is constructed of high-grade galvanized steel cast in a single piece. This anchor was inspired and designed based on anchors used to secure oil rigs in the North Sea.

The Lewmar Claw anchor comes in sizes from 2.2lbs to 176lbs. It is used on seabed surfaces including sandy, muddy, gravel and grassy ocean floors. It is not used on rocky surfaces.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including ocean, lake and river floors.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to 65ft can use the Lewmar Claw anchor.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is priced between approximately $30 for the smallest 2.2lb anchor to approximately $1,300 for the largest 176lb anchor at most retailers.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 50 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Lewmar Claw anchor are:

• It's fast setting : Depending on the sea depth, this anchor can set and begin anchoring a vessel in under 5 minutes
• It has great holding power : This anchor can help with anchoring boats in position in extremely harsh weather conditions with winds up to 50 knots
• Easy bow roller storable : This anchor can fit and store nicely in most bow roller shapes and styles without any issues
• It's a budget-friendly anchor : The Lewmar Claw anchor is one of the cheapest on the market and it should be within most sailboat owner's budget with the most expensive anchor sold at a price of approximately $1,300
• It's built with strong & high-quality material : The Lewmar Claw is built with high-quality and heat-treated steel with a galvanized finish

One disadvantage of the Lewmar Claw anchor is it does not come with a lifetime warranty.

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Amazon →

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Walmart →

3. Seachoice Utility Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for the price is the Seachoice Utility anchor manufactured by the brand Seachoice in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for the price because it offers the most options for the cheapest price on the market.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel or PVC-coated steel. It comes in 5 different color options including red, black, white, light blue and grey.

This anchor comes in different sizes from 4.5lbs to 8.5lbs.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is priced at approximately $25 for the smallest 4.5lb anchor to approximately $70 for the larger 8.5lb anchor at most retailers.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is used on different seabed surfaces including gravel, sand, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky seafloors.

The Seachoice anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including the sea, rivers and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 10ft to 30ft can use the Seachoice Utility anchor.

The Seachoice Utility anchor can hold a sailboat in position and keep it anchored in wind speeds up to 30 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Seachoice Utility anchor are:

• It comes with a 1-year warranty : The Seachoice Utility anchor comes with a 1-year manufacturers warranty for added peace of mind
• It comes in multiple color options : Sailboat owners can choose from 5 different anchor colors
• It's easy to retrieve from the seawater : This anchor comes with a great slip-ring design that makes it easy to retrieve it from the water after use
• Sharp anchor fluke design makes penetration easy : The sharp fluke design helps the anchor to easily penetrate the seafloor surface
• It is cheap : The Seachoice Utility anchor is the cheapest anchor on the market with the largest anchor priced at approximately $70

Two disadvantages of the Seachoice Utility anchor are the anchor can only be used on smaller sailboats up to 30ft in length and it can not be used on larger sailboats over 30ft and the anchor can not be used on rocky sea floors.

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Amazon →

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Walmart →

4. Fortress FX-11 Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for small sailboats is the Fortress FX-11 anchor manufactured by the brand Fortress Marine Anchors in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for small boats because its lightweight aluminum material is capable of holding a sailboat up to 32ft without the anchor being extra heavy.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is constructed of aluminum alloy material and it comes in a size of 7lbs.

It comes with a pivot adjustment which allows an adjustment of the anchor angle between 32° to 45°.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sand, gravel, mud and grassy surfaces. It is not used on rocky seafloor surfaces.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor can be used in different marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of between 28ft to 32ft can use the FX-11 anchor.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is priced at approximately $200 at most retailers.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor works to hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 30 knots without the vessel floating away.

The benefits of the Fortress FX-11 anchor are:

• It's rustproof : The light but strong aluminum material is rustproof meaning the anchor will not suffer from rusting caused by the corrosive seawater
• It comes with a lifetime parts warranty : The Fortress FX-11 anchor comes with a lifetime parts replacement warranty against damage that might occur to any parts of the anchor
• It is easy to store after use : It can be easily disassembled which means it is easy to store onboard the sailboat after using it#
• Penetrates the seafloor and sets deeper : The sharp edge d anchor allows it to easily penetrate seafloors and anchor a boat

One disadvantage of the Fortress FX-11 anchor is it can only be used on smaller sailboats between 28ft to 32ft and it cannot be used on larger sailing vessels over 32ft.

Fortress FX-11 On Amazon →

Fortress FX-11 On Walmart →

5. Rocna Galvanized Anchor

The best anchor for larger sailboats is the Rocna galvanized steel anchor manufactured by the brand Rocna in British Columbia, Canada and sold worldwide.

The Rocna anchor is constructed of galvanized steel with solid welding from top to bottom.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor was designed by New Zealand sailor Peter Smith.

The Rocna anchor design comes with a roll-bar to ensure the anchor can penetrate the surface at the best angle and one-third of the anchor's weight is on the fluke tip which also helps with the penetration of the seafloor surface.

The Rocna anchor comes in 14 different sizes from 9lbs to 606lbs.

This fluke anchor is the best for larger sailboats because it offers anchors up to 606lbs which will help with anchoring most larger sailing vessels.

The Rocna anchor can be used on all sea surfaces from gravel, mud, sand, clay, kelp and rocks. It can also be used in marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to over 300ft can use the Rocna galvanized steel anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor is priced between approximately $220 for the smallest 9lbs anchor to approximately $12,000 for the largest 606lb anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 40 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Rocna galvanized anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Rocna galvanized anchor comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage, manufacturing defects and bending for added peace of mind
• It can be used on all sea surfaces : The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can be used on all sea surfaces including gravel, sand, mud and rocky sea floors and it is not limited or restricted to just a few types of surfaces
• It sets fast : The sharp edge fluke helps penetrate the sea surface and the anchor sets fast as a result of this design

One disadvantage of the Rocna anchor is it is not the cheapest anchor with the cheapest price at approximately $220.

Rocna Anchor On Amazon →

Top Sailboat Anchors Comparison Table

What To Consider When Buying A Sailboat Anchor

The factors to consider before buying a sailboat anchor are:

• Type of material used : The type of material used to create the anchor is an important consideration when buying a sailboat anchor. Most modern anchors are constructed using aluminum steel or galvanized steel
• Durability : How long the anchor can last is a factor to consider when buying a sailboat anchor. Modern anchors come with lifetime warranties and they should last for well over 10 years
• Size Of The Boat : Identifying the proper anchor size for a boat is not a perfect science but the size of your boat is an extremely important factor to consider when choosing a top sailboat anchor. Typically, the larger the boat size, the bigger the anchor that is required
• Price : Price will also play a big role in the sailboat anchor you buy. Anchors come in many different prices for many different budgets

Frequently Asked Questions About The Best Sailboat Anchors

Below are the most common and frequently asked questions about the top sailing vessel anchors.

What Are The Best Sailboat Anchor Brands?

The best sailboat anchor brands are:

• Five Oceans Danforth Style
• Mantus Marine

Are Top Sailing Boat Anchors Expensive?

No, top sailboat anchors are not expensive with some of the best sailboat anchors priced as little as $25 in some instances.

What Are The Different Types Of Sailboat Anchors Available For Sailboat Owners?

The types of sailboat anchors available are:

• Fluke anchors
• Plow anchors
• Claw anchors
• Mushroom anchors
• Grapnel anchors

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The Jimmy Green Anchor Size Comparison Chart is compiled from individual manufacturer recommendations and highlights how similar the suggestions are across various designs.

How to choose your Anchor Weight by Manufacturer Recommendation

• Find the column below that best represents your Boat Length Overall.
• Compare your displacement with the tonnage listed.
• If the displacement is greater than displayed in your column in the table, or the yacht is a multihull, consider moving across to the next column to increase the diameter.
• Consider the worst-case scenario for your anticipated Anchoring - this will dictate whether you go for the minimum required or the ocean cruising approach
• Consider the manufacturer sizing parameters listed below the tables 
• Compile a short list of potential anchors to consider

Rex Francis has set the Anchor Right parameters for the Sarca Excel in a slightly different format. However, it can still be compared with other anchor designs with a little interpretation.

SARCA Excel Parameters - Length and Displacement Anchor Right Advisory - If your boat is over the limit in either column, it is advisable to upgrade to the next size. Upgrading one size for a multihull or long-term anchor dependent cruising would also be considered good practice.

Most anchor manufacturers publish a recommended weight of anchor by either the length overall or a combination of length, displacement and windage.

Some top manufacturers also include weather conditions and distinguish between monohulls and multihulls.

The top manufacturers are generally conservative and specify more criteria to help you choose.

The authority of each manufacturer recommendation may be judged by several factors: reputation, personal experience, research, the number of relevant factors taken into account, and the amount of detailed information they publish on the subject.

The Jimmy Green Anchor Size Chart collates the recommended sizing for all the anchors we offer on our website and highlights how similar the recommendations are. Interpretation is still required, e.g. multihulls, high windage profile and extreme weather.

Anchor Sizing Parameters by Manufacturer

A more detailed explanation of how the data for individual anchors is presented and how it is collated into the Comparison Table follows:

Galvanised and Stainless Steel Anchors

Rocna, Vulcan and Rocna Mark2, Galvanised and Stainless Steel - Length and Displacement

Rocna/Vulcan recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls

Quote from their Fitment Guide - ”our anchor sizing recommendations are intended to provide an anchor adequate for use in most all conditions. We base our calculations on 50 knots of wind, associated surge, and poor holding bottoms.”

Mantus Mark 1 and 2 – Length, Displacement and Wind Speed

Mantus Quote - “we are generally referring to the needs of a cruising boat spending most of its time on anchor. In doing so, we try to envelope high sustained winds (50 knots) and assume poor holding conditions (low viscosity bottoms).”

Mantus publish a chart in three categories – “Lunch Anchor category is recommended for lighter use, expected winds under 30 knots, working anchor for winds under 50 knots and finally, storm anchor recommendations are intended for winds above 50 knots.”

N.B. The Jimmy Green Comparison Table is derived from the Mantus middle category.

Spade Galvanised and Stainless Steel – Length and Displacement

Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls

UltraMarine Stainless Steel – The UltraMarine Anchor Size Guide considers multiple factors. Their comprehensive approach includes Length, Displacement, Mono/Multihull and Windage Profile criteria.

Lewmar Epsilon, Delta and Claw – Length only

Lewmar guidelines are illustrated in a shaded colour range by length only, so you need to judge displacement, i.e. light, average, or heavy, compared with similar length yachts. If the answer is heavy, upgrading to the next size is advisable.

Plastimo Britany – Length only

Plastimo Quote – “Anchor weight per boat length is only given as an indication. However, your anchor selection should also recognise the specific construction of your vessel.”

Using a lightweight anchor goes against the traditional belief that weight is one of the most critical factors in holding power.

Fortress Quote – “Fortress design does not depend upon weight to provide world class performance.”

However, the most popular application for aluminium anchors is as a convenient, high holding power secondary or kedge anchor.

Fortress/Guardian – Length only

Fortress Quote – “Boat anchor size recommendations are for boats of average windage and proportions in 30 knots of wind, average bottom conditions, and moderate protection from open seas. Remember that the loads in 42 knots of wind are twice as much as in 30 knots.”

Spade Aluminium – Length and Displacement

Spade recommend an anchor one size larger than indicated in their guide for multihulls.

Spade Quote – “Aluminium version not recommended for use as a primary anchor.”

Lewmar LFX – Length only

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Anchor Sizing

When sizing an anchor or anchor rode, it’s useful to have starting point and to think of the whole system. This is a table developed by American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC) to approximate the expected load on the anchor and the anchor rode for given wind speed and boat length. The complete table appears in Section H-40 of ABYC’s Standards and Technical Reports for Small Craft available at abycinc.org.  The below table was created more than 50 years ago and it is not clear exactly how it was derived. After comparing this data in this table to work that has been done since we come to the conclusion that the values presented here represent loads expected on the anchor rode if anchored on chain only without the use of the snubbing system.  And using a line rode or and adequately designed snubber you can reduce the loads by a factor of 3, by eliminating the shock loads. This is an argument for why its so important to use a snubber but when sizing anchor rode or your anchor, it is important to consider loads as stated in the table. The reason is that we can not rely on the integrity of a snubber in a storm.  Should the snubber fail, the integrity of the rode should be sufficient to handle the loads without the snubber.

The ABYC Horizontal Working Load (lbs) Table

How do you intend to use your boat? Do you sail only on calm days with fair weather (Lunch Hook) or are you outfitting for an adventure (Storm) where you might be exposed to hazardous weather at anchor? For example, if you are outfitting a 35 foot boat for you should size the working rode and anchor to safely handle loads up to 1,800lbs if planning a cruising adventure, but the same margin of safety is not necessary if operating day trips from the safety of a marina.

When making sizing recommendations we are generally referring to the needs of a cruising boat spending most of its time on anchor, in doing so we try to envelope high sustained winds (45 kts) and assume poor holding conditions (low viscosity bottoms).  Some may think these recommendations to be too conservative especially when compared to sizing tables from other manufacturers. Companies often make claims of superior anchor efficiency, stating that their small anchor X will outperform a much heavier anchor from their competitors and often use sizing charts as a marketing tool to that end, recommending anchors and anchor systems that are dangerously undersized for their intended use.  Comparing surface area can be a good judge for potential holding capability.  Our anchor sizing recommendations are presented in the table below:

ANCHOR SIZING GUIDE (Click to enlarge)

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What Size Anchor Do I Need? (Anchor Size Chart)

When it comes to boat safety items, an anchor is non-negotiable. Your anchor size roughly depends upon your boat size, type, wind speed, anchor type, and anchoring conditions you encounter.

To be precise, pinpointing the exact anchor size for your boat can be difficult. Nevertheless, it is always a good idea to follow the rough guidelines provided by your anchor manufacturer.

For your convenience, we’ve compiled all the information you need to figure out the right size of anchor for your boat in this post. Let’s begin!

Table of Contents

What Factors to Consider Before Buying a Boat Anchor?

Types of boat anchors, anchor size chart, what size anchor do i need, what are some common anchoring mistakes.

1. Holding power

The holding power of an anchor is the pull force it must withstand in order to hold the boat of a given weight in place.

Holding capacity depends upon the ability of the anchor to dig, the soil measurements, and the shape of the anchor . Holding power also varies with environmental factors such as wind speed.

2. Anchor weight:

Besides holding power, the anchor weight is also a primary factor you should consider. The anchor must be heavy enough to be able to drag through the bottom so that your vessel stays put in a single place.

In fact, many suggest always taking two anchors on board with you at all times, especially if you anchor your boat overnight; one, a simple hook style anchor for calm water and weather conditions, and a heavy one that assures your boat safety even during stormy and turbulent conditions.

Nevertheless, many new generation anchors today rely on the design that offers the best holding power and not really on the weight of the anchor.

3. Type of seabed:

Some types of anchors are efficient for sandy or muddy seabed, while others might be the best in the case of rough and rocky bottoms.

Almost all types of anchors have impressive holding power in hard sand bottoms. However, in mud bottoms, anchors need to penetrate high in order to reach the bottom material.

Likewise, weed bottoms are truly challenging to penetrate for anchors. Therefore, the anchor weight plays a critical role in such a seabed type.

Overall, you must be aware of the seabed types that you’ll encounter along your voyage to be able to choose the right design and sized anchor for your vessel.

1. Folding Grapnel:

Folding grapnels features multiple tines to grab structures and are great to anchor to an area with rough or rocky bottom. These anchors are great for small vessels, inflatables, and jet skis and are recommended by many as secondary or emergency anchors.

2. Reef Anchors:

As the name suggests, reef anchors are great for coral reefs and rocky bottoms. Many boaters choose to hand-weld and DIY reef anchors .

3. Plough anchors:

Plough anchors have a single penetrating point attached to the central shank and are ideal for sandy, muddy, and weed bottoms. You might notice arched shank in modern plough anchor designs. As long as it gets a good grip, this anchor type is also great for rocky bottom uses.

On the other hand, plough anchors might not be the ideal anchor for loose bottoms, as it only gets dragged along the boat without any resistance.

4. Claw anchors:

Claw anchors have a broader scoop shape than plough anchors and are suitable for anchoring in a variety of sea beds. It is ideal for sandy and muddy sea bottom but also performs decent enough in rocky bottoms. Nevertheless, it isn’t a great anchor candidate when it comes to loose sand bottoms.

5. Fluke or Danforth anchors:

Fluke anchors feature two triangular-shaped flukes attached to the central shank to bury onto the sea bed. Due to its simple design and lightweight character, it is undoubtedly a great choice for small crafts.

The small gap in between the flukes in the Danforth anchor allows better grip onto the rough sea bed. Although the orientation of the flukes is changeable depending upon the seabed material, the ideal angle for maximum efficiency is 30 degrees.

6. Mushroom anchors:

Another great anchor for small vessels and dinghies is the mushroom anchor. Small mushroom anchors are ideal if you often anchor your boat to a river bottom. On the other hand, large mushroom anchors are used for mooring purposes.

7. Spade with roll bar anchors:

Distributed by brands such as Manson and ROCNA, a spade with roll bar anchors is designed to set fast onto any type of sea bed with impeccable holding power.

For your convenience, we’ve done all the research for you. Here are some common anchor types used in the US and the anchor weight recommended for them depending on the boat length.

Remember to take this list only for reference purposes and research for the accurate and updated recommended anchor size listed by your manufacturer. And, when in doubt or during stormy conditions, always go a size higher.

Note: Unless specified otherwise, the chart assumes an average boat weight , average bottom conditions, and typical environmental conditions, including wind speed. In the case of exceptionally long and heavy vessels, many brands such as Lewmar recommend the clients follow the relevant Classification Societies for instructions.

The standard calculation is 1 lb of anchor for each foot of the boat. Once you’re ready with this basal value, you can then adjust the anchor size by taking the instructions below to size up or down the anchor.

As per the rope, use three-strand nylon, and the minimum scope for your anchor must be 5:1. The scope value should be around 7:1 in case of heavy vessels.

The boat anchor scope is the ratio of the deployed anchor rode length to the depth of the water from the deck height to the bottom of the water body.

Likewise, the 6 ft chain for every 25 ft of water depth rule is also the golden standard. Moreover, anchors require at least one ft of chain every one ft of boat length for maximum efficiency.

Up your boat anchor size, regardless of the manufacturer’s recommendation, if you relate to any of the following scenarios.

• Your anchor rode is relatively lightweight.
• Your boat is relatively heavier than other boats with similar dimensions.
• Your boat is usually anchored in an area where weather change is unpredictable and quick.
• Your boat is big and wide relatively.
• The anchored area has a lot of windage.
• You’re planning an offshore sea voyage.

On the other hand, when it comes to sizing down your anchor size, the typical suggestion is that you don’t do it unless and until you check these conditions.

• You’re well aware of what type of seabed you will be anchoring your boat in.
• You never anchor your boat for a long duration or overnight.
• The wind speed of your sailing area never exceeds 10 knots.
• Your anchor rode is too big and heavy for your lightweight boat.

Now that we all know how to choose the right boat anchor size for your boat let’s have a brief look at a few common mistakes sailors repeatedly make while anchoring their boat.

• Losing anchor in a trip is definitely not a new piece of news to experienced sailors. Many forget to secure the anchor line to the boat and simply throw the anchor into the water body.

Given this, many experts recommend sailors at least own two anchors on board with them during their journey.

• The anchor line can be messy to deal with, given how long they are. Often, sailors or the person on the foredeck make the mistake of letting the anchor go with their foot wrapped in the rope. That’s a pretty risky scenario.

Remember that when it comes to boat anchors , the bigger, the better unless the weight of the anchor is too heavy for your boat or it is too difficult to retrieve manually.

Also, for multihulls, many brands, including Spade and Rocna, suggest the buyers to up the size than recommended in the guide.

We hope you could form a clear idea on your head regarding the sizing of the boat anchor you require after reading this post. Let us know in case of any more queries!

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ANCHOR CALCULATOR

Calculate the safest anchor for your boat.

It is very important that you have the right anchor for your boat to keep you and your family safe. Our anchor calculator will recommend the best anchor for your boat based on the type of boat, its size and weight and the sort of boating activity you are wanting to do. Select your preferred measurement scale (metric or imperial) and then follow the path. Click on the boxes that best describe your situation, select the length and weight values and then press the red Calculate Your Anchor button. This anchor calculator is for boats up to 28m/90ft. For enquiries above this boat length please contact us directly. 

SELECT MEASUREMENT SCALE

New generation or traditional anchor.

New Generation Anchors

The New Generation anchor range use materials and designs suited to the latest boat designs.

Traditional Anchors

The Traditional anchor range uses classic designs like the Plough (CQR) or Ray (Bruce) Anchor suited to older boat styles.

WHAT ANCHOR TYPE?

Plough Anchor

BOAT SPECIFICATIONS

BOAT LENGTH (Metric)

Boat weight (metric), boat length (imperial), boat weight (imperial), your recommended anchors, we recommend the manson supreme anchor, however if your bow sprit conflicts with the supreme’s dimensions, we recommend the manson boss anchor. learn more about the anchor dimensions on the product pages..

Supreme Anchor (SHHP)

From $ 134.99 – $ 4,999.99

Chain Recommendation

You can rely on supreme safety with our best-selling anchor – the Manson Supreme. This anchor ensures your precious family gets the good night’s sleep they deserve. Aptly named the Manson Supreme, this anchor sets and holds immediately. It is considered the world’s safest anchor with innovative features that lead the industry. It is self-launching and self-righting, using a rollbar to make setting your anchor a worry-free process. The Manson Supreme Anchor will turn or quicky reset and hold with the wind and tide so you can sit back and enjoy your surroundings. Available in galvanized steel or exquisitely polished stainless steel.

Boss Anchor

From $ 179.99 – $ 9,499.99

The Manson Boss is a truly multi-purpose anchor. It was designed to have the same instant setting and high-holding power of the Manson Supreme, but to also fit the bow-rollers on motorboats. This new generation anchor operates in all seabeds, the sliding and fixed shank design ensures easy setting and retrieving, regardless of the conditions and your surroundings.

The Manson Boss Anchor gives you and your family the reassurance they need to sleep well while at anchor in unfamiliar places. This is a safe and reliable choice, used by thousands of boaters around the world. The Manson Boss really does perform like the Boss! Available in galvanized steel, black painted steel or exquisitely polished stainless steel.

Ray Anchor (HHP)

The Manson Ray Anchor is a very fast setting anchor, most suited for quick deployment and ‘no fuss’ anchoring.

The fast setting nature makes the Manson Ray ideal for use in crowded or narrow anchorages, particularly on sand or muddy seabeds.

The Manson Ray Anchor tends to be used more frequently on Super –  Sailing  – Yachts as a more traditional yacht type of anchor and it is then deployed via cassettes in the bow.

It is Lloyd’s Register Type Approved as an HHP (High Holding Power) anchor and available approved sizes from 5kg – 600kg, and unapproved up to 3425kg.

Plough Anchor (HHP)

Engineered to provide a strong and secure hold, 90% of all cruising boats use plough (CQR-style) anchors. The Manson Plough Anchor has hinged shanks, improving the scope of movement of the chain and has a weighted tip delivering secure reliable holding in sand, weeds and mud.

The Manson Plough Anchor is a proven yachting favourite and traditionally tends to be used on Super –  Sailing  – Yachts, deployed via an anchor deployment arm. Increasingly we are seeing designers select the Manson Plough Anchor in conjunction with the patent pending Subplough System from sister company Bowmaster. See here for more on this  underwater anchor deployment solution. 

The Manson Plough Anchor is Lloyd’s Register Type Approved as a HHP (High Holding Power) anchor and is available in approved sizes from 5kg – 1000kg, and unapproved from 1000kg – 5000kg.

This anchor calculator is a guide only.  It is not intended to replace or supercede any class or maritime sizing recommendations.  Lloyd’s Register rules apply to the Manson Supreme, Manson Plough and Manson Ray Anchors.  For any queries, please contact [email protected]

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Get a FREE Line Cutterz Mount with Any Purchase

The game changer for shallow water anglers, drill free motor mounts for easy setup, the most versatile shallow water anchor handle on the market, the original shallow water anchor.

Stayput Anchor offers a faster, quieter, and more affordable way to reel in prized fish or secure your boat at a favorite sandbar. Compatible with boats under 24 feet, our anchors boast a sleek design and easy installation. As pioneers in shallow water anchoring, we’ve been in business for over a decade, catering to the needs of anglers, pleasure boaters, and weekend warriors alike with dedication and expertise.

Explore our extensive product range, featuring Bow Mounts , Stern Mounts , Motor Mounts , Pole Spikes , Super Handles , and Complete Anchor Packages , all meticulously crafted for seamless installation. Get ready to hit the water in no time with our quick and easy setup process, ensuring you spend less time installing and more time fishing!

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Shallow Water Anchor Kits

Build your own Anchor Kit with a Marine Grade Mount, Pole Spike, and Handle, shipped ready for easy installation.

This is a game changer for the pole anchoring system choices today much more affordable. Can not wait to put one on my rig. — Richard O.

Amazing product and customer service. Matt and his team really took care of me. Very highly recommend. — Joe C.

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Best Sailboat Anchors of 2024

Stopping to explore nearby reefs and grab a quick bite of lunch, sailors often take for granted the safety and security an anchor provides. But if you’ve ever had to ride out a storm—or dragged anchor at night—you’ll soon learn the importance in choosing the best sailboat anchor for your vessel.

To determine how strong your anchor needs to be, we must first understand the differences between old guards versus new generations. Choosing an anchor takes many factors into consideration, some of which tailor to personal sailing habits, your vessel’s size and even the body of water you frequently sail.

While encouraging you to challenge your seafaring skills, we at The Adventure Junkies want beginner sailors and liveaboards to find safe anchorage during rough seas. Below, you’ll find a breakdown of common anchor types and when to use them.

For more of our top sailing gear recommendations, check out the Best Sailboat Winches .

QUICK ANSWER – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

• Manson Supreme
• Manson Boss
• Rocna Original
• LEWMAR Delta Fast-Set
• LEWMAR Bruce-Style Claw
• Danforth S-600

SAILBOAT ANCHOR REVIEWS

Check out the latest price on: Amazon

BEST FOR: Sailors who anchor in all seabed types

MATERIAL: Galvanized steel

BOW ROLLER: Yes

PROS: Self-righting roll bar, new generation anchor, sets in hard and grassy seabeds, lifetime warranty

CONS: Less affordable

MANSON SUPREME

BEST FOR: Larger sailboats who sail in all types of seabeds

PROS: Self-righting, new generation anchor, narrow shank with 2 slots for day use and anchor trip

CONS: Less affordable, comparable to Rocna

MANSON BOSS

BEST FOR: Sailors who want their vessel to be both functional and aesthetically pleasing

MATERIAL: High tensile galvanized and stainless steel

PROS: Self-launching curved fixed-shank, strong surface area to hold ratio, adjustable shackle for fixed eye and sliding shank for anchor trip

CONS: Narrow shank, no self-righting roll bar

ROCNA ORIGINAL

BEST FOR: Vessels that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: New generation, self-righting roll bar design, plow-style wide fluke, sharp chisel, fits most bow rollers

CONS: More expensive than fluke-styles

BEST FOR: Vessels under 40 foot that frequent strong winds and tide shifts

PROS: Corkscrew plow design that digs deep, holds strong in every seabed condition, ballasted tip

CONS: More expensive

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in marshy areas with grassy sea bottoms

PROS: Good for bow rollers, pivoting hinge shank, quickly resets

CONS: pinches fingers, hard setting in rocky bottoms

LEWMAR DELTA FAST-SET

BEST FOR: Vessels that sail in sand and grass

MATERIAL: Galvanized manganese steel

PROS: Performs well in grass and sand, one piece construction, performs well on bow roller

CONS: Fixed shank underperforms in mud

Check out the latest price on: West Marine

BEST FOR: Sailors who need a fast-setting anchor in mud or sandy seabeds

MATERIAL: Aluminum

PROS: Similar to Danforth, lightweight, easily stored, good hold to weight ratio, fast-setting

CONS: Does not perform well in rocky and grassy seabeds

LEWMAR BRUCE-STYLE CLAW

BEST FOR: Budget-conscious sailors with sailboats larger than 30 feet

MATERIAL: High tensile steel

PROS: No moving parts to break, lighter than plow, holds well to grass seabeds

CONS: Heavier than most anchors, low holding power, not easy to store, drags in storm conditions

DANFORTH S-600

BEST FOR: Smaller sailing vessels who sail in mud and sandy sea bottoms

BOW ROLLER: No

PROS: Good general anchor for smaller vessels, lightweight, easily stowable

CONS: Doesn’t reset well, not compatible for most bow rollers, pinches fingers

COMPARISON TABLE – THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHORS

8 THINGS TO CONSIDER TO FIND THE BEST SAILBOAT ANCHOR

Monohull vs. multihull vessel types.

A beginner sailor might question which anchor is better for their vessel’s hull type. But to be clear–when it comes to choosing an anchor for either monohulls or multihulls (like catamarans), the type of anchor you choose depends more on your vessel’s size and weight. Vessel types are rarely–if ever–a deciding factor.

LAKES VS. COASTAL WATERWAYS

Lakes and rivers do not require the same strength you would need for coastal waters and open seas. But take your sailboat on the Great Lakes, ICW (Intracoastal Waterway) or to brave a transatlantic journey, and you’ll need something more adequate. All anchors listed here are for coastal waterways, but may also be efficient for smaller bodies of water.

CHOOSING THE CORRECT ANCHOR WEIGHT FOR VESSEL LENGTH

To choose the correct anchor weight for your vessel, you need to know your vessel’s weight and length. Always verify the anchor manufacturer’s specifications and suggested vessel length, but know the numbers are typically inflated. I suggest to always bump up to the next size and sail with a heavier anchor than your vessel requires.

CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS

Anchors are forged from a variety of materials; some metals more modern than others. Keep in mind when you purchase that manufacturers may carry anchor styles in a variety of materials.

Aluminum anchors are lightweight by comparison, but come at a cost. Less affordable than steel anchors, they are also not as strong. But sailor prefer them because–when set correctly–they have high holding power.

GALVANIZED STEEL

Galvanized steel is a very strong and inexpensive metal. This material is perfect for sailors who don’t much care how shiny their anchor appears on the bow roller. But although galvanized metal is corrosive, it can wear over some time. Be sure to look for hot-dipped galvanized steel or plan for it to be re-galvanized.

STAINLESS STEEL

If you want your anchor to appear more aesthetically pleasing, stainless steel is the material of choice. Stainless steel is also more resistant to rust and corrosion, but keep in mind it scratches easily and can make anchors more costly.

HIGH TENSILE STEEL

With nearly 3 times the holding power strength as regular steel, making most anchors with high-tensile steel relatively stronger–as long as the anchor sets well.

MANGANESE STEEL

A newer material offered for anchors is manganese steel. Manganese combines the strength of mild steels with high-impact durability for setting repeatedly in rocky seabeds.

SEABED CONDITIONS

Beneath the water’s surface, you can encounter a variety of seabeds. This is one of the most important deciding factors in choosing a sailboat anchor. For liveaboards who find themselves sailing in a variety of seabeds, a plow style anchor or scoop is universal, whereas fluke anchors are perfect for flat sands and muddy bottoms.

ROCKS, REEFS AND CORAL

Rocky seabeds can secure anchors quite well, if not a little too well. Sometimes, sailors find themselves needing to dislodge anchors which become stuck. In these cases, it’s wise to use anchors with slotted shanks, making it easier to release trip lines.

MUD, SAND AND GRASS

Muddy bottoms and sandy seabeds require fluke-style anchors with wide surface areas. And because mud can disguise underlying sediments, it also helps if the anchor can penetrate. Fortress anchors are great for these seabed conditions.

Sandy seabeds grab anchors very well, but challenges arise during shifting tides. Hinged-shank fluke anchors allow pivoting and non-hinged scoop anchors rotate under the sand.

Grass tends to be slippery, making it difficult for certain anchor types to grasp. In these seabeds, heavier anchors outperform engineered designs.

WEATHER CONDITIONS

Even if you have a nightwatch partner, sudden storms overtake vessels and send them off course. If you want to set anchor without the worry, many new generation anchors have been tested in hurricanes and outperformed old guard anchors in extreme weather.

HOW WELL DOES IT SET?

If an anchor lacks a way to position itself, it may not set as optimally as intended. You want to assure the anchor is engineered to self-right itself into position when it falls on the seabed. Anchors can set by using a combination of factors from roll bars to tip ballasts to chiseled fluke styles.

The new generation anchors are designed with roll bars, reacting to flat seabeds by self-righting and rolling itself over. Originally engineered by Rocna , the design has been further adopted by more anchor manufacturers like Manson .

TIP BALLASTS

In place of roll bars, tip ballasts are simply weighted on one end. It will naturally tilt toward the tip ballasts edge, allowing the anchor to set when it’s dragged. Anchors can have both roll bars and tip ballasts.

DOES IT MOVE WITH CURRENT & TIDE CHANGES?

One challenging skill in dropping anchor is, in fact, getting it out again to reset. With some anchors, setting it on the first try is a matter of luck, especially when you’re unsure of your seabed condition. It’s important to be able to quickly reset, or you may find yourself strapping on a wet suit and goggles to retrieve it in frigid waters.

Sailors should always carry two anchor varieties. This way, after reading a sonar signatures to determine your depth and seabed conditions, you can choose which anchor will best hold as well as the scope needed to reach.

HINGED SHANKS

Hinged shank anchors are needed for sailing in waters where there are tidal changes. If the sailboat turns about, a hinged shank can pivot itself without having to be reset. But moving parts pinch so watch those fingers!

FIXED SHANKS

Fixed shank anchors are fine anchors if you aren’t worried about tidal changes and currents. You may also rely on fixed shanks in muddy seabeds if they are also scoop-styles.

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Pure Watercraft Pulls Up Anchor, Ceases Operations in Beech Bottom

Area officials celebrated in June 2023 plans by Pure Watercraft to locate an electric pontoon boat manufacturing facility in the Northern Panhandle with a demonstration of the company’s boats on the Ohio River. The Seattle-based company confirmed Thursday it has ceased operations at its facility in the Beech Bottom Industrial Park. (File Photo)

BEECH BOTTOM — An official with the electric boat manufacturer Pure Watercraft confirmed Thursday that the Seattle-based company has ceased operations at its 80,000-square-foot production facility in the Beech Bottom Industrial Park.

“Pure Watercraft has, unfortunately, ceased operations in Brooke County, although we are not prepared at this time to give an explanation for this course of events,” stated Arne Landboe, customer relationship manager. “We do expect to speak on this matter shortly, but for the moment I cannot offer an official comment. We sincerely hope that the excellent space in Beech Bottom can be filled and effectively used by new tenants as soon as possible to the benefit (of) the community there.”

The news comes almost exactly two years after Pure Watercraft — which has another factory in Tukwila, Wash. — announced plans to occupy the former Wheeling-Pittsburgh Steel mill and produce electric outboard motors and pontoon boats with zero emissions.

Beech Bottom’s mill was selected based on its proximity to GM’s Lordstown, Ohio, electric battery plant, as well as a large portion of the pontoon market, according to President and CEO Andrew Rebele, who spoke at a ribbon-cutting on June 5, 2023.

The company originally expected to invest at least $5 million in the plant and create more than 100 full-time jobs by the end of 2025, an Aug. 31, 2022, press release from the West Virginia Governor’s Office states.

Mitch Carmichael, secretary of the West Virginia Department of Economic Development, told MetroNews’ “Talkline” Thursday that Pure Watercraft failed to reach its private capital investment goal.

“They had some investors who were committed to a long-term strategy with the company and continue to invest until they got their production up and going, and then it took a side turn,” Carmichael said.

Pure Watercraft subsequently reached out to the state for assistance, Carmichael said, adding, “We’ll help private companies succeed, but we’re certainly not going to stand them up all on our own.”

The company had orders for more than 900 of its pontoons, a strategic partnership with GM to receive battery packs for the boats and some state financial incentives for employing 23 workers, Carmichael said. An open house was hosted in February to demonstrate boat construction from beginning to end. However, the company couldn’t meet customer demand before its private sector funds were exhausted.

“People had put down some money for it (boat orders). I was very hopeful that they would make it, but unfortunately they didn’t,” Carmichael said.

The Beech Bottom Industrial Park facility was being leased to Pure Watercraft by the Business Development Corp. of the Northern Panhandle, a nonprofit organization formed to promote economic development in Hancock, Brooke, Ohio and Marshall counties. The industrial park is among a number of reclaimed brownfields the BDC purchased through remediation steps in order to create investment opportunities.

Acquired by the BDC around 2012 for $4.4 million, the site underwent a U.S. Environmental Protection Agency Mid-Atlantic Region Targeted Brownfields Assessment and a subsequent $240,000 U.S. EPA Mid-Atlantic Region Cleanup Grant remediation.

In 2017, the site entered the West Virginia Department of Environmental Protection Voluntary Remediation Program, and a certificate of completion was received in 2020. 

“(The BDC) was notified recently that Pure Watercraft has ceased operations in Brooke County,” said Anthony Clements, the BDC’s co-executive director. “Obviously, we are saddened by this turn of events. We are confident that this newly renovated industrial space in Brooke County will lead to positive developments for our community and are eager to work with the state and new partners who share our vision for economic progress in West Virginia.”

Carmichael said the building is state-owned, and there are already interested tenants and potential buyers.

Pure Watercraft’s investment announcement came amid a wave of new developments in West Virginia, including the announcement of Form Energy’s plans to construct an iron-air battery systems manufacturing facility in Weirton. Full manufacturing there is expected to begin later this year.

State Revenue Secretary Larry Pack told MetroNews Thursday that the state did not waste money on Pure Watercraft.

“You’re never going to bat a thousand but if we want to grow West Virginia and we want to grow jobs, we’ve got to get into the game and we’re in the game,” Pack said.

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