c&c 35 sailboatdata

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C&C 35

• By Bill Brockway
• Updated: February 8, 2002

Cuthbertson and Cassian designed and built 351 hulls of the C&C; 35 in the 1960s and 70s. The Mark I and Mark II series (pre-1975) are usually available in good shape for an average price of $30,000. The Mark II usually rates lower than the Mark I, but depending on local fleet, the Mark I could be either an A- or B-fleet boat. A crew of five or six is required to race the boat, which sails best to its PHRF rating in medium air. If you’d prefer not owning a boat with a gasoline engine, you’ll want to replace the Atomic 4 engine with a diesel, which will cost about $5,000. A new set of racing sails should cost as much as $10,500. A new racing bottom could cost $3,000.

C&C; 35 http://www.candc35.org Typical monthly costs: $874 Annual budget range: $2,000 to $10,000 PHRF 120-132 LOA 34’7″ LWL 27’6″ Beam 10’7″ Draft 5’3″ Disp. 10,500 lbs. SA 575.5 sq. ft.

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C&C 35 3

The c&c 35 3 is a 34.67ft masthead sloop designed by robert ball and built in fiberglass by c&c yachts between 1982 and 1987..

The C&C 35 3 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a very short water supply range.

C&C 35 3 for sale elsewhere on the web:

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First impressions Although both versions of the boat are similar in appearance, there are some notable differences, especially below the waterline. Both boats have a modest sheerline with fairly long overhangs, at least by today's standards. The LOA of the MK I is 34 feet, 7 inches and the LWL is 27 feet, 6 inches, revealing an overhang ratio of about 20 percent. The hull has a bit of flare forward and a springy stern with a slightly reversed transom. The underwater sections show rounded bilge sections, and although the boat was considered flat and beamy in its day, it seems softer to modern eyes. The cabintrunk on the MK I featured a distinctive spray dodger molding. The MK II replaced this molding with a slight rise in the trunk. The MK I has a single long portlight in the saloon while the MK II has two smaller ones. Below the water, the MK I has a swept-back shark fin keel shape and an odd scimitar-shaped spade rudder trailing aft. The shape of this rudder, designed to keep the leading edge in turbulence-free water, was changed to a more balanced, freestanding blade on the MK II. The aft sections were also changed, flattened a bit, to take advantage of the IOR rule. The ballast was increased by 600 pounds in the MK II and the sail area increased by 50 square feet. Interior modifications combined to add nearly 30 percent to the displacement. Although the MK II has a more modern hull shape, and an LWL 2 feet, 9 inches longer, 35 owners who still race the boat prefer the performance of the lighter MK I.

Construction The 35 predates C&C's extensive production of cored hulls, and the hull is made of relatively thick, solid, hand-laid-up fiberglass. However, the deck is composite with a balsa core. The hull and deck are joined on a standard flange and bonded chemically and mechanically. The overall construction is typical of the time, fairly heavy and not overly sophisticated. It is always interesting to read old reviews of the 35. Writers in the early 1970s considered the 10,500-pound 35 MK I to be almost radically light. Bulkheads are securely glassed in place as is most of the interior infrastructure. Some secondary bondings have not held up well, but that's a sign of age more than a problem with the original construction. The keel is externally fastened with stainless fasteners, and the rudder stock is also stainless steel. The rudder is foam and fiberglass. Transverse floors are constructed of glassed-over plywood and can be subject to delamination. C&C's finish work was high quality, although the extensive use of Formica definitely dates the boat.

What to look for The first thing to remember is that most C&C 35s are 30 years old. It is remarkable, really, how well the boats have aged, especially because almost all 350s have been raced hard at some point during their lives. When you begin inspecting boats on the used market, look for a 35 with a new engine. The original power plant was the well-loved and much maligned Universal Atomic 4. This venerable gas engine is reliable and cheap to repair or replace; still, I'd look for a boat with a retrofitted diesel, an upgrade that doesn't seem to drastically alter the asking price. Late in the production run some MK II models were fitted with small Westerbeke diesels, which many owners have repowered over the years. Leaks are a common ailment in most 35s, particularly at the hull-and-deck joint and around the portlights. Bedding compound that has lost resiliency primarily causes these leaks. Remember that, while it is a straightforward task to rebed the ports, curing a chronic leak in the hull-and-deck joint is more challenging. Also, check the keel bolts, as some owners noted that iron washers were used, which of course, have likely rusted and will need to be replaced. While in the bilge, look closely at the floors for signs of cracks, rot or delamination. The main bulkhead also needs close examination: Check to see if the bonding is fractured. Naturally check all the age-related items, especially old seacocks, hose clamps and other below-the-waterline fittings.

On deck The cockpits of the MK I and MK II have a few differences to be aware of. The MK I features a cockpit traveler just forward of the helm, effectively creating separate steering and trimming stations. On the MK II the traveler was moved forward, usually above the companionway. The MK II has a substantial bridgedeck, a nice safety feature, while the MK I has a low-cut companionway with just a small sill, making it necessary to keep the bottom washboard in place in wet conditions. Both cockpits have a low coaming that hits you right smack in the small of your back, so seat cushions are a big help. Also, the helm station is well aft, effectively leaving the helmsman exposed to the elements, although the low-profile cabintrunk does provide good visibility from the cockpit, especially looking to leeward past a big genny. The side decks are fairly wide, considering the overall beam is just 10 feet, 7 inches. The chainplates are located well inboard, as are the headsail tracks, allowing for narrow sheeting angles. Original deck hardware has likely been updated by now, although some boats have been maintained in near original condition, a testament to the overall high quality of the boat. The original nonskid surface is most likely well worn by now, and it is also possible that the decks and cabintrunk have been painted. Many owners used a one-part paint that does not hold up very well and may be peeling; this was the case on both boats I looked at in South Florida. There were different sailplans for each model. The MK II had a tall rig option and many owners opted for a slightly shorter boom.

Down below The interior plan is nearly identical in both models. After stepping below, there is a small chart table to port. The navigator sits on the foot of the quarter berth, a typical arrangement. A small U-shaped galley is to starboard. A two-burner alcohol stove was standard, although it's probable this has been updated. If a propane stove has been installed, be sure to check the system carefully. Sometimes the gas bottle is placed in the cockpit locker, which is not sealed and definitely not safe. A single sink near the centerline faces aft and drains on either tack. The icebox compartment is rather small and will need better insulation to be efficient if upgrading to refrigeration. For short cruises the galley is more than adequate as there is plenty of storage and decent counter space. Incidentally, this arrangement is reversed on the MK II; the galley is to port and the nav desk and quarter berth to starboard. The saloon includes a dinette to port with a settee opposite. I like a dinette arrangement because it keeps the cabin sole clear without having to fold a table up and out of the way. My kids always spend a lot of time around the dinette table when we're under way. The shallow bilge does not allow room for tanks, which were located under the settee and quarter berth on the two boats I looked at. The cabin sole is molded fiberglass, practical and a bit sterile. The head is actually spacious for a 1970's vintage boat with a vanity and wash basin. There are two hanging lockers opposite, which I find a curious use of space. I guess you needed more room for blue blazers back in those days. The double V-berth is long and comfortable, and the cabin is lined with shelves and has lockers underneath the bunks and drawers below.

Engine As noted earlier, the original engine was an Atomic 4, 30-horsepower gas auxiliary. These engines, which were first built in 1947, were installed in almost every boat under 40 feet until the mid-1970s. And, those that haven't been replaced are usually still running. They are pretty simple really, just keep the plugs, distributor and rotor clean, have a decent set of points, add gas and air and the thing will run and run. However, the Atomic 4 doesn't have enough umph to push the C&C 35 into a chop, and gasoline engines are dangerous. Late model MK IIs were offered with the option of a 15-horsepower Westerbeke diesel. Owners who have repowered more recently often have chosen the Yanmar 3GM series engines, or the 25-horsepower Universal diesel that has the same footprint as the Atomic 4.

Under way The reason for buying an older C&C 35 is simple: It's for the sailing. These boats sail beautifully. Whether you are out for an afternoon, club racing under PHRF, pushing the boat in the Bermuda Race or just cruising, the 35 impresses with its performance and handling. By the way, in the 1997 Annapolis to Newport Race, a 1971 MK I finished third overall. Both models are easily driven in light air, although the lighter MK I is faster. However, reaching or running in a good breeze, the MK I, with its scimitar-shaped rudder can be a handful and intriguing broaches are not unknown. The MK II is a bit stiffer, and with a more conventional rudder, easier to handle off the wind. Both models are close-winded and few owners report excessive weather helm. The nature of the rig calls for flying overlapping genoas, which by design can load up the helm. Steve Purdy, who has sailed his 1973 MK I from Virginia to Nova Scotia, sums up the 35's performance like this: "easy to handle and comfortable for two to cruise, but still fast enough to enjoy racing and to be competitive." Not a bad combination for any boat.

Conclusion The C&C 35 is an enduring favorite on the used boat market. It is a handsome, high-quality, fine-sailing boat with a proud pedigree that can be purchased for less than $35,000. Maybe that's why many sailors consider the 35 to be a classic.

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C&C 35-2 - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for C&C 35-2 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more.

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C&C 35-2 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of C&C 35-2. Built by C&C Yachts and designed by C&C Design, the boat was first built in 1973. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 10.82. Its sail area/displacement ratio 17.56. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

C&C 35-2 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about C&C 35-2 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the c&c 35-2.

C&C 35-2 was designed by C&C Design.

Who builds C&C 35-2?

C&C 35-2 is built by C&C Yachts.

When was C&C 35-2 first built?

C&C 35-2 was first built in 1973.

How long is C&C 35-2?

C&C 35-2 is 9.22 m in length.

What is mast height on C&C 35-2?

C&C 35-2 has a mast height of 12.5 m.

Member Boats at HarborMoor

Total sediment thickness of the World’s Oceans & Marginal Seas, version 2

Citation Whittaker, J. M., Goncharov, A., Williams, S. E., Müller, R. D., & Leitchenkov, G. (2013). Global sediment thickness data set updated for the Australian‐Antarctic Southern Ocean . Geochemistry, Geophysics, Geosystems , 14 (8), 3297-3305. doi: 10.1002/ggge.20181.

Summary NGDC’s global ocean sediment thickness grid (Divins, 2003) has been updated for the Australian-Antarctic region (60°-155°E, 30°-70°S). New seismic reflection and refraction data have been used to add detail to the conjugate Australian and Antarctic margins and intervening ocean floor where previously regional sediment thickness patterns were poorly known. 

On the margins, sediment thickness estimates were computed from velocity-depth functions from sonobuoy/refraction velocity solutions ground-truthed against seismic reflection data. For the Southeast Indian Ridge abyssal plain, sediment thickness contours from Géli et al. (2007) were used.

The new regional sediment thickness grid was combined with NGDC’s original ocean sediment thickness grid (Divins, 2003) to create an updated global grid of ocean sediment thickness. Even using the minimum estimates, sediment accumulations on the extended Australian and Antarctic continental margins are 2 km thicker across large regions and up to 9 km thicker in the Ceduna Basin compared to NGDC’s original sediment thickness grid (Divins, 2003), which has been deprecated but is still available.

Downloads GMT NetCDF file (7 Mb) XYZ file (21 Mb) Geotiff (6 Mb) ArcGIS file (6 Mb)

Other references http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1002/ggge.20181/abstract

Divins, D.L., Total Sediment Thickness of the World’s Oceans & Marginal Seas, NOAA National Geophysical Data Center, Boulder, CO, 2003. http://www.ngdc.noaa.gov/mgg/sedthick/sedthick.html

Géli, L., Cochran, J., Lee, T., Francheteau, J., Labails, C., Fouchet, C., and Christie, D., 2007, Thermal regime of the Southeast Indian Ridge between 88°E and 140°E: Remarks on the subsidence of the ridge flanks: J. Geophys. Res., v. 112, no. B10, p. B10101. http://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1029/2006JB004578/abstract

Divins, D.L., Thickness of Sedimentary Cover in the Eastern Pacific Ocean, in International Geological-Geophysical Atlas of the Pacific Ocean, edited by G.B. Udintsev, pp. 120, 126-127, 130, Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission, Moscow-Saint Petersburg, 2003.

Divins, D.L., and P.D. Rabinowitz, Thickness of Sedimentary Cover for the South Atlantic, in International Geological-Geophysical Atlas of the Atlantic Ocean, edited by G.B. Udintsev, pp. 126-127, Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission, Moscow, 1990.

Hayes, D.E., and J.L. LaBrecque, Sediment Isopachs: Circum-Antarctic to 30S, in Marine Geological and Geophysical Atlas of the Circum-Antarctic to 30S, edited by D.E. Hayes, pp. 29-33, American Geophys. Union, Washington, D.C., 1991.

Ludwig, W.J., and R.E. Houtz, Isopach Map of the Sediments in the Pacific Ocean Basin, color map with text, Am. Assoc. Pet. Geol., Tulsa, OK., 1979.

Matthias, P.K., P.D. Rabinowitz, and N. Dipiazza, Sediment Thickness map of the Indian Ocean, Map 505, Am. Assoc. Pet. Geol., Tulsa, OK., 1988.

Smith, W.H.F., and P. Wessel, Gridding with Continuous Curvature Splines in Tension, Geophysics, 55, 1990.

Tucholke, B.E., and E. Uchupi, Thickness of Sedimentary Cover for the North Atlantic, in International Geological-Geophysical Atlas of the Atlantic Ocean, edited by G.B. Udintsev, pp. 122-125, Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission, Moscow, 1990.

Udinstev, G.B. (editor), International Geological-Geophysical Atlas of the Pacific Ocean, 192 p., Intergovernmental Oceanographic Commission, Moscow-Saint Petersburg, 2003.

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• Sailboat Guide

1987 C&C 35 MKIII

• Description

Seller's Description

$24,950 1987 C&C 35 Mk III Sailboat. Marvelous is my wonderful 1987 C&C 35. She is a great Bahamas-Caribbean-Chesapeake boat with a centerboard giving her the draft you want 4’2” up, 6’4” down. She also points like a C&C so she’s just an all around great sailing boat.

I set her up a year ago for cruising and spent three great months in the Bahamas, and then due to a job change, I had to move to the West coast.

Since it looks like it’ll be a few years here I’d rather pass her along to someone who can enjoy her than let her sit on the hard. Here’s some details and what I’ve done to her so far.

Equipment: Engine, Mechanical, Plumbing: Yanmar 3GM30F Diesel 3-cylinder 24hp good condition, reliable. -Fresh water strainer and Raycor fuel filter/water separator at front of engine for better access. Cabin heater runs off engine coolant. And dedicated fans 18 gallon fuel tank, newer plastic unit; Water tanks 1@15 gallon, 1@25 gallon Hot and cold pressure water, shower in head, HDPE holding tank, new Feb 2019: macerator, all new zero-permeability trident premium hoses. 10lb propane cylinder Worthington aluminum.

Galley: Hillerange 3-burner gimballed stove and oven, Large capacity icebox with drain pump Magma stainless 15 kettle propane grill Full supply of dishes, pots , Henkle knives, stainless cutlery, etc

Sails, Rigging, Canvas: Main: good condition, slab reefing system, two reef points, Lazy Jacks Genoa: 135% Genoa, Good condition, (smart furling shape system that has foam strips in leading edge), UV cover New running rigging 2019 for Main, Jib (2x), Spinnaker halyards, topping lift, mainsheet traveler, baby stay foot tension, vang, outhaul, reef 1, reef 2 Extra jib 135% North Sails, inspected and serviced by sailmaker Older Drifter, whisker pole Canvas sea anchor Parachute drogue Dodger, bimini: Dodger, Bimini in very good condition with clean and clear Isenglass. Zipper to intermediate panel (between dodger and bimini) needs repair

Ground tackle: New 2019 Rocna 44lb anchor and 225 5/16 HT US-made Titan chain on Lewmar Model 1000H electric windlass with remote control. #2 bow: Danforth 20lb bow anchor with chain and rope rode Stern Danforth 10lb stern anchor with short chain and rope rode Extra 75 5/16 HT US-made chain Extra 100 rope anchor rode;

Dinghies: 2, New 7.5 inflatable dinghy 3-ply PVC, and Hypalon 9 inflatable dinghy with wood floor

Instrumentation and Electronics: ACR EPIRB new in March 2019 Garmin GPSmap 546 chart plotter Raymarine EV100 Wheel Autopilot Raymarine ST60 Depth sounder, speed log Micronet MN30 wind indicator ICOM VHF radio mast head antenna True Power 1500 Watt modified sign wave inverter 20-Amp Pro Mariner permanent installed battery charger New industrial deep cycle house batteries (4x) Guest battery isolator Model 2404 Newer PanelTronics circuit breaker panels for AC and DC circuits 100 Watt solar panel Marine barometer (analog, made in England, compensated) Work Done 2019: Rebuilt rudder, New bearings, 2 coats ablative bottom paint

Additional Information: 2019 survey available Design specs at https://sailboatdata.com/sailboat/cc-35-3

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

The C&C 35-3 (MKIII) is a completely new design that replaced C&C’s earlier 35 footer. Keel/CB version: Draft (BD): 6.40’/1.95m Draft (BU): 4.16’/1.27m Displacement: 12150 lbs./5511 kgs. Ballast: 5700 lbs./2586 kgs.

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