vintage sailboat plans

Step-By-Step Guide: How to Build a Wooden Sailboat – Complete DIY Tutorial

Alex Morgan

Building a wooden sailboat is a rewarding and fulfilling endeavor that allows you to create your own vessel for sailing adventures. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a woodworking enthusiast, constructing a wooden sailboat requires careful planning, attention to detail, and a love for craftsmanship. This comprehensive guide will take you through the step-by-step process of building a wooden sailboat, from choosing the right design and gathering the necessary materials to assembling the framework, building the deck and cabin, and installing the sails and rigging. We will also discuss the finishing touches and regular maintenance required to keep your wooden sailboat in optimal condition for years of enjoyment on the water. Let’s dive into the world of wooden sailboat construction and embark on this exciting journey together.

Key takeaways:

Key takeaway:

• Choosing the right design and plans is crucial: Research different sailboat designs and select suitable plans based on your skill level to ensure a successful project.
• Gather the necessary materials and tools: Pay attention to wood selection and preparation, as well as acquiring the tools and equipment needed for building your wooden sailboat.
• Attention to detail in the construction process is important: Prepare and assemble the framework carefully, focusing on lofting, laying out the keel, constructing the ribs, and the hull structure to ensure a sturdy and reliable sailboat.

Choosing the Right Design and Plans

When it comes to building a wooden sailboat, one of the crucial steps is choosing the right design and plans. In this section, we’ll take a deep dive into the world of sailboat designs and explore the vast array of options available. From researching different sailboat designs to selecting plans that match your skill level, we’ll guide you through the exciting process of bringing your wooden sailboat dream to life. So, hop aboard and let’s set sail on this exhilarating journey of craftsmanship and adventure.

Researching Different Sailboat Designs

When conducting research on sailboat designs, it is important to take into account a variety of factors in order to select the most suitable design. One of the primary considerations is whether you prefer a monohull or a multihull sailboat. Monohulls are more commonly found and offer superior performance when sailing upwind, whereas multihulls provide both stability and speed.

Another aspect to consider is your level of sailing experience. If you are a beginner, it is advisable to seek out designs that are easier to handle and forgiving. On the other hand, experienced sailors may gravitate towards performance-oriented designs that are ideal for racing or long-distance cruising.

It is crucial to think about how you intend to use the sailboat. Are you looking for a day sailer , a cruiser , or a racing boat ? Each design comes with its own set of distinctive features and characteristics.

Determining the appropriate size of the sailboat is another crucial step, which should be based on the number of people and activities you plan to have on board. You must also decide whether you prefer an open cockpit or an enclosed cabin .

To find the perfect sailboat design that aligns with your sailing goals and preferences, it is imperative to thoroughly research various options and take into consideration all of these factors. By doing so, you will be able to make an informed decision and select the ideal sailboat design.

Selecting Suitable Plans for Your Skill Level

When it comes to building a wooden sailboat, it is crucial to select suitable plans that match your skill level. This is important as it ensures that you have the necessary knowledge and expertise to effectively complete the construction. In order to help you with this, here is a table that outlines the different skill levels and the corresponding plans:

Choosing the right plans for your skill level is essential as it enables you to navigate the construction process smoothly, avoid any complications, and ultimately achieve the desired result. It is crucial to honestly evaluate your woodworking skills and then select plans that align with your abilities. Keep in mind that building a wooden sailboat demands patience , attention to detail , and a willingness to learn and improve your woodworking skills.

As a pro tip, if you are a beginner, it is advisable to start with simpler plans and gradually work your way up to more complex projects. This allows you to gain experience and confidence in your woodworking abilities over time. So always remember to select suitable plans for your skill level and enjoy the process of building your wooden sailboat.

Gathering the Necessary Materials and Tools

When it comes to building a wooden sailboat, gathering the necessary materials and tools is key . In this section, we’ll dive into the exciting world of selecting and preparing the right wood for your sailboat, as well as the essential tools and equipment you’ll need to bring your project to life. So, start sharpening your creativity and let’s sail away into the realm of wooden boat construction!

Wood Selection and Preparation

Incorporating the provided keywords naturally in the provided text:

1. Conduct research on the different types of wood used in boatbuilding, such as mahogany , teak , or oak . This will help you make an informed decision regarding the most suitable wood for your sailboat.

2. Determine the specific requirements of your sailboat design in order to guide your wood selection process. Each design may have different needs and preferences when it comes to the type of wood to be used.

3. Take into consideration the durability and resistance to rot of the wood options available. This is crucial to ensure the longevity and overall quality of your sailboat. Choosing a wood that can withstand exposure to water and other elements is essential.

4. Look for straight , dry , and defect-free wood. This will contribute to the structural integrity of your sailboat. Any defects or irregularities in the wood may compromise its strength and performance.

5. Calculate the amount of wood needed based on the specific design and measurements of your sailboat. This will help you estimate the quantity of wood required for the construction process.

6. Mill or cut the wood into the required dimensions and shapes as outlined in the sailboat design. This step is crucial for achieving the desired structure and appearance of your sailboat.

7. Prior to assembly, it is important to sand the wood surfaces thoroughly. This will remove any rough edges or splinters, ensuring a smooth and safe finish.

8. Apply a protective coating or sealant to the wood in order to prevent water damage. This will help preserve the wood and extend its lifespan .

By following these steps, you can ensure that the wood selected and prepared for your sailboat construction is suitable and of high quality.

Tools and Equipment Needed for the Project

When embarking on the construction of a wooden sailboat, it is crucial to have the appropriate tools and equipment to ensure successful completion.

To accurately measure and obtain precise alignment and dimensions, essential measuring tools such as a tape measure , combination square , and level are indispensable.

For shaping wooden components, cutting tools like a circular saw or table saw , jigsaw , and hand saw are necessary.

Joinery tools, including a chisel set , mallet or hammer , and drill with different-sized bits, are vital for smoothly joining parts together.

To achieve a polished finish, sanding and finishing tools such as sandpaper with varying grits, sanding blocks , and a random orbital sander are crucial.

Additionally, brushes and rollers are required for the application of finishes.

When it comes to safety, it is imperative to prioritize the use of safety goggles , ear protection , a dust mask , and work gloves to ensure personal protection during the construction process.

When selecting tools and equipment, it is essential to invest in high-quality items that are specifically designed for the tasks involved in wooden sailboat building.

By doing so, not only will efficiency be maximized, but the overall quality of the finished boat will also be greatly enhanced.

Preparing and Assembling the Framework

As we delve into the world of building a wooden sailboat, we now find ourselves in the exciting phase of preparing and assembling the framework. In this section, we’ll discover the essential steps that go into setting up the lofting and laying out the keel , as well as the intricacies of constructing the ribs and hull structure. Get ready to immerse yourself in the hands-on process of bringing this magnificent vessel to life!

Setting Up the Lofting and Laying Out the Keel

To properly set up the lofting and lay out the keel for a wooden sailboat, it is important to follow these steps in a systematic manner:

• Firstly, prepare the lofting area by clearing a large, flat space where the plans and measurements will be placed.
• Next, securely attach the keel stock to the lofting platform, making sure it is both level and aligned with the boat’s centerline.
• Using battens, rulers, and pencils, transfer the measurements and lines from the boat plans onto the lofting platform.
• Ensure the accuracy of the waterlines, buttock lines, and other reference lines on the lofting platform by drawing them according to the measurements provided in the boat plans.
• Utilizing the dimensions indicated in the plans, measure and mark the positions of the keel, stem, and transom on the lofting platform.
• Thoroughly examine and adjust all lines and measurements to guarantee their accuracy.
• Identify the locations where any additional frames, bulkheads, or structural elements will connect to the keel, by marking them accordingly.
• Prior to proceeding, double-check all marks and measurements to ensure their accuracy.

The process of setting up the lofting and laying out the keel is an integral step in the construction of a wooden sailboat. It serves as the foundation and reference points for the boat’s overall structure. It is crucial to pay close attention to detail and maintain accuracy throughout the build. By following these steps, you will be on your way to constructing your very own wooden sailboat.

Constructing the Ribs and Hull Structure

When constructing the ribs and hull structure of a wooden sailboat, follow these steps:

– Measure and cut the ribs: Use the plans as a guide to mark and cut the dimensions on the wood. Cut the ribs accurately.

– Attach the ribs to the keel: Position and attach the cut ribs evenly along the keel using marine epoxy and screws.

– Install chines and stringers: Attach the chines to the bottom edge of the boat and install the stringers along the sides for strength.

– Attach the planking: Cut and fit planks to cover the rib and stringer structure, securing them tightly.

– Reinforce the joints: Apply epoxy and fiberglass tape over the joints to strengthen the structure.

– Shape the hull: Use tools to shape and smooth the hull, paying attention to fairing for optimal hydrodynamics.

– Apply a protective finish: Coat the hull and ribs with marine-grade varnish or epoxy for durability.

– Perform a thorough inspection: Check for defects, cracks, or imperfections and make necessary repairs before moving forward.

The process of constructing wooden sailboats has evolved over time, combining traditional techniques with modern materials and tools. Craftsmanship, attention to detail, and an understanding of wood’s properties are still essential in constructing the ribs and hull structure. This blend of artistry and engineering ensures sailboats can withstand the demands of the sea while providing a smooth and enjoyable sailing experience.

Building the Deck and Cabin

Let’s dive into the exciting world of building a wooden sailboat! In this section, we’ll focus on the crucial element of constructing the deck and cabin. Get ready to explore the process of creating the deck framework and adding those essential interior features . From laying the foundation to crafting a cozy cabin space , we’ll uncover the key steps and considerations for bringing your wooden sailboat to life. So, grab your tools and let’s set sail on this exhilarating construction journey !

Creating the Deck Framework

When creating the deck framework for a wooden sailboat, follow these steps:

• Measure and mark the desired deck size and shape on the boat’s frame.
• Cut and shape the wooden planks or panels to match the marked measurements.
• Align the planks or panels horizontally across the frame, ensuring they are straight and evenly spaced.
• Secure the planks or panels to the frame using screws or nails, ensuring tight fastening.
• Add additional support beams or joists underneath the deck for added strength and stability.
• Sand the deck surface to create a smooth and even finish.
• Apply a weather-resistant sealant or paint to protect the deck from moisture and UV damage.
• Install necessary features or fixtures on the deck, such as hatches, cleats or railings.

Pro-tip: Enhance the deck’s strength and durability by adding epoxy or marine adhesive between the joints before securing the planks or panels.

Installing the Cabin and Interior Features

When building a wooden sailboat, it is important to pay attention to every step, including the installation of the cabin and interior features. To install these features, follow the following steps:

1. First, measure and cut the materials for the cabin walls, floor, and ceiling.

2. Next, securely fit the cabin walls in place.

3. Then, attach the floorboards to the cabin base using screws or nails.

4. Align and install the cabin ceiling.

5. If desired, add insulation for extra comfort.

6. Attach interior features such as cabinets, storage compartments, and seating areas.

7. Install windows and hatches to allow for natural light and ventilation.

8. Properly wire the cabin for electricity, ensuring that lights and outlets are installed and functioning.

9. Finish the interior by sanding and applying a protective coat of varnish or paint.

10. Ensure that all installations meet safety standards.

Precision and attention to detail are key when installing the cabin and interior features of a wooden sailboat. By carefully measuring, cutting, and fitting each component, you can ensure a secure fit. It is important to optimize the layout and functionality of the interior features to create a comfortable living space with ample storage. The addition of windows and hatches will enhance comfort and enjoyment by providing natural light and ventilation . If electricity is needed, proper wiring is essential to ensure necessary lighting and power outlets. Finishing the interior with a protective coat of varnish or paint will not only enhance aesthetics but also provide durability.

Remember, the goal is to create a cozy retreat for sailors, so it is important to put in the necessary effort to install the cabin and interior features correctly.

Installing the Sails and Rigging

Set sail with confidence as we dive into the exciting world of installing the sails and rigging for your wooden sailboat. Discover the key considerations in choosing the perfect sails and master the art of setting up and adjusting the rigging. With expert tips and tricks , this section will equip you with the knowledge to navigate the waters with ease and experience the thrill of sailing your wooden masterpiece .

Choosing the Right Sails

When choosing sails for your wooden sailboat, consider the following factors:

– Type of sailing: Determine if you plan to cruise , race , or do both. Different sails are designed for specific purposes.

– Boat size: The size of your sailboat determines the size and number of sails you need. Larger boats require bigger sails , while smaller boats may need fewer and smaller sails .

– Wind conditions: Consider the typical wind conditions in your sailing areas. Different sails perform better in light winds , heavy winds , or various wind conditions.

– Sail material: The material of the sails affects durability and performance. Material choices include Dacron , laminate , and nylon . Each material has different trade-offs between longevity, performance, and cost.

– Reefing options: If you sail in varied or unpredictable wind conditions, choose sails with reefing options. Reefing allows you to adjust the sail area for stronger winds, improving control and safety.

– Manufacturer reputation: Research sail manufacturers for their reputation and reliability. Read reviews, seek recommendations, and consider warranty and customer support.

By considering these factors, you can make an informed decision when choosing sails for your wooden sailboat. Remember, the right sails greatly impact your sailing experience, so take your time and choose wisely.

Setting Up and Adjusting the Rigging

When setting up and adjusting the rigging of a wooden sailboat, it is important to follow these steps to ensure proper and safe rigging.

To start, attach the mast to the deck using a mast step or mast partner for stability and support. This will provide the foundation for the rigging.

Next, secure the standing rigging , which includes the shrouds and stays , to the mast. This will help distribute the forces from the sails and ensure the stability of the mast.

Connect the forestay to the bow of the sailboat. This will keep the mast in line and control the position of the headsail.

To counteract forces from the headsail and maintain rigging tension, attach the backstay to the stern of the boat.

Use turnbuckles or rigging screws to adjust the tension in the standing rigging. This will ensure proper alignment and support of the mast.

Install the running rigging , including halyards and sheets , to control the position and tension of the sails.

Before and during sailing, it is important to regularly check the tension in the rigging to ensure performance and safety.

Make any necessary adjustments to the rigging during sailing in order to optimize the shape of the sails and enhance the performance of the boat.

By following these steps, you will be able to properly set up and adjust the rigging of your wooden sailboat, allowing for safe and enjoyable sailing experiences.

Finishing Touches and Maintenance

When it comes to completing your wooden sailboat and keeping it in top shape, this section has got you covered. We’ll dive into the art of applying exquisite finishes to the hull and deck, giving your sailboat a stunning appearance. And don’t worry, we won’t neglect the nitty-gritty details of regular maintenance and care, ensuring your wooden vessel remains seaworthy for years to come. So, let’s get ready to add those finishing touches and keep your sailboat sailing smoothly !

Applying Finishes to the Hull and Deck

When building a wooden sailboat, applying finishes to the hull and deck is crucial for durability and aesthetic appeal. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Prepare the surfaces: Sand down rough spots, fill in cracks and imperfections, and ensure a smooth and clean surface.

2. Choose the right finish: Consider the type of wood and desired look. Varnish provides a glossy and traditional appearance, while paint offers different colors and styles.

3. Apply the primer: Enhance adherence and create an even surface for the final coat by applying a primer.

4. Apply the finish: Use a brush or roller to apply the chosen finish coat to the hull and deck. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drying times and application techniques.

5. Allow for drying and curing: Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for drying and curing to ensure the finish is fully set and provides maximum protection.

6. Inspect and touch up: After drying, inspect the hull and deck for missed spots or imperfections. Touch up any areas that require additional finish for a seamless and polished look.

By following these steps and applying finishes properly, you can protect and enhance the hull and deck of your wooden sailboat, ensuring it looks beautiful and lasts for many years.

Regular Maintenance and Care for Your Wooden Sailboat

Regular maintenance and care for your wooden sailboat is crucial for its longevity and performance. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Inspect the hull and deck for damage like cracks or rot. Promptly repair any issues to prevent further damage.

2. Clean the boat regularly with mild detergent and freshwater to remove dirt, salt, and grime that can accumulate over time.

3. Apply a protective coating to the hull and deck using marine-grade varnish or paint to prevent water penetration and protect against UV damage.

4. Check the rigging and sails for wear or damage. Replace worn-out lines or rigging components for safe sailing.

5. Inspect wooden components such as the mast, boom, and rudder for rot or decay. Replace or repair as necessary to maintain structural integrity.

6. Keep the interior of the sailboat clean and dry to prevent mold and mildew growth. Use a dehumidifier if needed.

7. Regularly check and maintain the boat’s systems , including electrical, plumbing, and navigation equipment. Address any issues promptly.

8. Store the wooden sailboat in a suitable location, such as a covered boat dock or boatyard, when not in use. Protect it from extreme weather conditions.

Pro-tip: Establish a regular maintenance schedule and keep a detailed record of all maintenance and repairs. This will help you stay organized and ensure your wooden sailboat remains in optimal condition.

Some Facts About How To Build A Wooden Sailboat:

• ✅ Building a wooden sailboat can take approximately 100 hours over a span of 3 months. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ A wooden sailboat can cost around $1,000 to build. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ The boat is typically built from 4×8 sheets of plywood and measures 8 feet in length. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ Various tools such as a pull-saw, table saw, router, sander, and drill are needed for building a wooden sailboat. (Source: Instructables)
• ✅ Fiberglass cloth, epoxy resin, screws, and other materials are used to reinforce and waterproof the wooden sailboat. (Source: Instructables)

Frequently Asked Questions

1. how long does it take to build a wooden sailboat.

Building a wooden sailboat typically takes about 100 hours spread over approximately 3 months.

2. What materials are needed to build a wooden sailboat?

To build a wooden sailboat, you will need 4×8 sheets of plywood, epoxy resin, oak plywood, various tools (such as a pull-saw, table saw, router, etc.), fiberglass cloth, screws, fasteners, and other supplies like glue, clamps, and mixing cups.

3. How much does it cost to build a wooden sailboat?

The estimated cost of building a wooden sailboat is around $1,000, including the materials and tools needed for the project.

4. Can I learn to build a wooden sailboat if I have no prior experience?

Yes, building skills can be learned gradually, and mistakes can be avoided along the way. With patience and guidance from boat building plans, even beginners can successfully build a wooden sailboat.

5. How long is the wooden sailboat described in the reference?

The wooden sailboat described in the reference is an 8-foot long pram, featuring classic lines and made from 4×8 sheets of plywood.

6. Can I launch the wooden sailboat in any body of water?

Yes, the wooden sailboat is designed to be light enough to fit in a small pickup truck or be rolled to a local lake on a dolly, making it suitable for various bodies of water.

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How I Built a Boat Using Plans from 1935

I found plans for a Gentleman's Racer in an old Popular Mechanics book.

My family has owned a Ford dealership since before the first World War, but when I was a kid, I loved boats most. Even after I took over the dealership and spent 40 years in the automotive business, I completed a number of boat restorations and builds. Years ago, my mother-in-law gave me a 1935 book from the Popular Mechanics Press called The Boat Book, Everything of Interest to the Amateur Boatman .

Inside were plans to build what was known in the 1930s as a Gentlemen's Racer—a modified recreation boat in the spirit of old hot rods. I loved the plans, and after a few years of only imagining the build, I laid out a roll of paper on the dealership’s showroom floor and drew the whole boat, full-size and full-scale, with a protractor, square, and compass. No computer whatsoever.

Modernizing the Engine

The original design being from the 1930s, I had to make a few changes. The book outfitted the boat with a Ford Model A engine, but I had my eye on a 250cid straight-six Ford, the same engine you’d find in an early Mustang, Torino, or Granada.

All due respect to my Ford heritage, a Model A motor is heavy, temperamental, and not particularly safe in a boat—the carburetor on the Old A's tended to leak fuel. My inline-six solved those issues and delivered triple the horsepower, 120 horses compared to the Model A’s 40. However, it still fit well within the rpm range in which the boat would be operating, and it struck a nice balance between nostalgia and reliability.

I also modified the original engine installation plans and lengthened the craft by 19 inches to move the engine farther aft. This gave the boat better balance and handling dynamics.

The engine is basically stock, with the exception of a larger carb from a Ford 300cid truck engine. The new engine’s been marinized: It has an open-loop cooling system that pulls water from the lake. There's a pre-cooler for the transmission and a raw-water pump that circulates water through the engine, the water-jacketed exhaust manifold, then out to the lake again.

I also constructed a custom oil pan in order to move the oil sump to the back of the engine—that was necessary with my modifications, which had the engine operating at a 14-degree angle.

A V8 is the typical engine for a custom build, so using the inline-six made things trickier, but the old 250 six matched up perfectly to a Borg Warner Velvet Drive marine transmission. The Velvet Drive is often paired with a 351-Ford engine, which is common in many ski boats.

On the dash, the tachometer, water temp, oil pressure, fuel, and battery gauges are all era-correct Stuart Warners—but I did a few things "incorrect." There's a dead man's switch under the dash and a modern blower system to ventilate the bilge, plus a few other safety items, such as a modern marine fuel tank and a triple-layer epoxy-encapsulated hull for extra strength and durability.

Shaping the Boat

The different engine caused a few ripple effects in how I had to alter the Popular Mechanics design. Because I was extending the length of the boat, it was important to keep the curve of the deck consistent and seamless. I wanted to accentuate the tumblehome — the inward curve of the sides towards the aft—so I called my son and we developed an equation to make sure the geometries worked out.

You can’t just run a straight line from frame to frame, because the side curves more toward the back, and the deck narrows at an ever-increasing rate the more aft you go. I added another frame at the back to support the extra length, so the boat ended up considerably stronger than the original plans.

We used the outside dimensions Popular Mechanics published, but where the original plans called for 1.5-inch white pine frames, I used 2.5-inch oak for additional strength. I had taken down an oak tree from my woods a few years previously. I had the timber aged and dried, and I selected the best planks for the frames.

Once the frames were together, I built the keel and epoxied and bolted the seven main frames and the transom to the keel. Then I ran the battens on the outside of the frames, as called for in the 1935 plans. All the frames are white oak, and the exterior is mahogany.

The toughest build area was the wood forming the bow. You can bend a piece of wood no problem, but where you have a lot of flair (like with the curves on the bow of a boat) you have to roll the plank in two different directions simultaneously. I threw a few pieces of mahogany away, thanks to trial and error.

The proper way to shape the wood would have been to use a steam room. But I ended up soaking the wood in my pond, and made a jig where I could bend the wood little by little until I achieved the shape I wanted. Then, I just let it dry in the sun.

It took me four and a half years of evenings and weekends to frame; build the keel; complete the hull; install the engine, transmission, and driveline; apply a urethane clearcoat; upholster the interior; and install the stainless steel trim. I eventually named it Flash , the same name given to the boat in the old Popular Mechanics book.

Updating a Classic

The book’s materials list was a bit dated. An obvious example: The instructions called for a canvas cover and “plenty of lead paint.” I wanted to stay true to the original design, but not that true. I covered the boat with marine-grade mahogany, with each piece coated in epoxy and screwed to the boat. For the finish, I used a conventional wooden stain, with an automotive-grade urethane clear coat for the top surface.

Popular Mechanics purists from the ‘30s would probably roll over in their graves upon hearing that, but acrylic urethane is harder and superior to varnish. If I had used the organic materials called for in the book, the life expectancy of the boat would have been pretty limited.

The old Gentlemen’s Racer class required two seats: the driver and navigator's seat aft and a "seat" in the forward deck. Many boats had a hatch to cover the forward seat, but even with the covered seat, it was still technically a recreation boat, in the same way a hot-rod is still technically a passenger car.

Some of my dealership connections came in handy for aesthetics and accessories. An upholstery shop in Salina, Ohio sewed the vinyl upholstery for the boat. The plans called for leather, but the ride of this boat produces a lot of spray, so the interior was guaranteed to be wet. The windshield and brackets were made by a speciality shop, and an Amish cabinet shop local to my home in Indiana did some of the complex wood-cutting. Other local Amish companies crafted the stainless steel hardware on the deck and sides, and installed the gold leaf lettering.

With all the modifications, I had to calculate the displacement of the boat to verify balance and water-line height. Water weighs 60 pounds per cubic foot. By calculating the cubic footage of the hull, I was able to establish how deep the boat would sit in the water. When the boat was finally launched, it floated within a half-inch of what my mathematical calculations had predicted.

Testing Its Performance

For the standards of the day, this would have been a really fast boat. It can be dead in the water and reach full plane in just under two seconds. It’ll never be a fast boat by modern standards because of the old-school hydrodynamics and engineering—new boats have designs that lift the boat out of the water at speed, and this one just can’t achieve any of that lift.

With the 18-inch pitch on the propeller—allowing for 15 percent propeller slippage—and the engine turning 3200 rpms, the math says the boat should have a top speed of around 46 mph. But over 40, you would have your hands full. Due to the fresh engine, I haven't pushed it hard to the top end yet.

On this boat, the bow is basically vertical. If you stuff it into a wave, you're going to put water over the deck. This design isn't wrong, but boat builders have learned a thing or two in the past 75 years. The Boat Book describes that exact ride experience as an inherent part of the design. As far as driving and handling, Flash is quite well-mannered. Granted, performance and handling aren't on par with a contemporary sport boat, but a 1930s sedan won't handle or perform comparable to a modern automobile, either.

Cruising at 28 to 30 mph, this boat is as sweet as can be. Flash creates a huge curtain of spray on both sides. When I take the boat out, other boats come alongside and follow us. Cameras come out and people take pictures of it running. Between the gold trim and the finished mahogany, it’s an attention-getter.

I numbered the boat with G-36: G for the Gentlemen's Racer classification, and 36 for the rough vintage. The gold leaf Flash is an exact copy of the script pictured in the book. Finally, I put A.J. Moser—my great-grandfather who founded our family dealership in 1886—on the side, but it’s a nod to my father, too, quite a craftsman himself.

He made things all his life. He told me: “Jim, work with your hands. You can do things if you try, and it’s good for your mind.” I love history, and maybe my great-grandchildren will be able to dig out this column in 85 years and show off the boat to POP readers again.

- As told to Jordan Golson

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The "Salish" boat is fantastic. I have been looking into building a T-37 (which is how I found your blog), but it is hard to look beyond the bottom of the blue boat.

Thanks Chance! Good luck on whatever you end up building.

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Vintage Marblehead

In 1930 Roy Clough, then commodore of the Marblehead Model Yacht Club, proposed a new class of larger model sailboats. The first published reference we have is from Model Yachting for Oct–Nov 1930. These boats must be “50 inches on deck” (50 in LOA). The sail area was settled at 800 in 2 , and the single most popular class in the history of model yachting was launched. Called variously the “Marblehead,” “50/800,” or “M” class, it had at one time over 1000 registered boats. The class became a national class in the US in 1932 and an international class in 1937. There were many reasons for its popularity: the size of the boat made for a good sailing model in all kinds of weather and was still (by design, it was rumored) small enough to fit in the back seat of a car. The simplicity of the rules contrasted with the other classes of the day, which required extensive measurement to determine whether a boat was legal.

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• Life & Culture

What’s it like to dine on Craft, Tampa’s new riverboat cruise?

• Helen Freund Times staff

TAMPA — We almost didn’t make the boat.

Traffic snarled through downtown Tampa and stretched onto the Lee Roy Selmon Expressway, delaying what would have been a 45-minute drive from St. Petersburg to nearly an hour and a half in stop-and-go congestion.

We had reservations for Craft, Tampa’s brand new riverboat dinner cruise set to depart at 7:30 p.m. — and a friendly confirmation email reminding us that our purchase was non-refundable. We’d been encouraged to arrive 45 minutes early, when we would have presumably been able to commence a leisurely boarding, river breeze in our hair, champagne flute in hand.

Life had other plans. At 7:25 p.m., my dinner date and I swung our car into the Garrison Street parking lot, narrowly avoiding getting struck by an oncoming streetcar.

Following a quick security wand-down (the boat adheres to U.S. Coast Guard rules) and a $30 event-fueled parking fee (Tim McGraw was playing a show at nearby Amalie Arena), crew members greeted us with a quick photograph and a glass of bubbly before sending us on our way.

“Welcome to our maiden voyage!” they exclaimed as we rushed aboard.

Shortly after 7:30 p.m., we were off, out of the Ybor Turning Basin and into the sunset.

Described as a “culinary and cocktail river journey,” Craft debuted its inaugural dinner cruise on March 15. The multi-million-dollar project is the latest endeavor from Jill and Troy Manthey, who also run several other entertainment-on-the-water concepts, including Yacht StarShip, Pirate Water Taxi and the Bay Rocket.

Designed with European river boats in mind, the 130-foot-long vessel boasts a sleek, white silhouette with less than 11 feet of vertical clearance — meaning it can comfortably drift beneath many of Tampa’s low-lying bridges. But this ship’s real appeal lies in the coupling of an elevated culinary program, contemporary aesthetic and craft cocktails.

A trip aboard Craft includes a two-hour cruise up and down the Hillsborough River and a three-course prix-fixe meal. To start, there are lunch, brunch and dinner trips on deck, but a happy hour option may soon be in the works.

Running any kind of marine operation comes with steep operating costs — including fuel, dock rental fees and staffing — and the experience here is priced accordingly. But it still comes with a good deal of sticker shock. For two people on a Friday evening, we paid $392.59 for the boat ride and the three-course dinner — not including gratuity or drinks.

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I love a fancy boat ride as much as the next person, but the pricing gave me pause.

Would the experience be worth it?

Things were a lot smoother once we got on board.

We entered through the front of the boat, or bow, and were shown to our seats inside a narrow dining room, flanked by windows overlooking the water. Wood paneling combined with slight nautical touches lent the space a warm, industrial chic vibe.

Servers clad in white collared shirts and gray aprons whisked back and forth between the tables, balancing martini coupes and taking orders. In an attempt to let the crew develop their sea legs, the boat wasn’t fully booked that evening, but the dining room still felt abuzz with excitement and curiosity.

Clutching our champagne, we glided through Sparkman Channel at dusk, glitzy Harbour Island homes glowing in the evening light as a Maggie Rogers track played softly in the background. We let out a collective exhale as the chaos of the day faded away.

Over the course of the roughly two-hour cruise, the boat steered up the Hillsborough River, passing Riverwalk landmarks including the Tampa Convention Center, Armature Works and Ricks on the River, before turning around and heading back.

Guests were encouraged to explore the boat. The Bow and Stern bar, beautifully designed and fashioned out of a vintage 1914 cruiser, provided additional seating in the rear for those looking for more of an al fresco experience.

Throughout the evening, the crew moved back and forth between the dining room, the bar and the kitchen, sometimes stepping out on the deck to alert passengers when their meals had been delivered. Guests roamed the boat taking photographs, while patrons inside chatted up their neighbors, much of the voyage illuminated by the lights of downtown Tampa.

Craft’s strongest selling point is its culinary program, and the menu here is a far cry from the goblets of white wine and dry chicken associated with most dinner cruises.

Designed by chef Allison Beasman (formerly of Edison: Food + Drink Lab), the list of contemporary New American dishes runs the gamut from a black grouper served with Little Neck clams and Pernod cream to a Wagyu coulotte with kabocha caramel and a Korean barbecue octopus. As part of the prix-fixe deal, guests are able to pick an appetizer, entree and dessert from a menu of roughly 13 different dishes.

Part of what makes the vessel stand out is the addition of an open kitchen with gas stoves, and the concept’s design allows guests to get a peek of the action if they’re on their way to the bathroom or the bar.

When it came time to order dinner, our server patiently guided us through the menu, pointing out the additional dishes we could choose if we wished to add a little something extra onto our pre-paid meal. We opted for the olive oil-marinated sheep and goat’s milk cheese ($18), which was just as tasty as our server touted. It arrived in a rich red pepper-packed pisto, drizzled with a healthy glug of olive oil and served with crusty bread for dipping.

Dishes are made to order and don’t necessarily arrive at the same time as other passengers’ meals. Our appetizers showed up roughly 45 minutes into the trip, a delightful baby kale salad lightly dressed in a white balsamic vinaigrette that was toothsome with chicory and shaved carrots and plumped up with fried baby potatoes and a healthy shaving of ricotta salata. Also good was the hearty tomato bisque with roasted bone marrow and blackened cipollini onions.

For our entrees, a seared duck breast arrived fanned out over silky whipped potatoes and a creamy goat cheese fondue, framed by Brussels sprouts and fat wedges of roasted golden beets. Though the duck was cooked a little past the requested temperature, it was still delicious. A plate of sweet and sour braised short ribs packed powerhouse flavors that paired beautifully together, all served over a sweet and sticky coconut rice sidling bok choy and juicy tangerine segments.

For dessert, we paired a perfect few scoops of pistachio ice cream with a chocolate espresso dacquoise, an intensely rich and sweet layer cake featuring a tart blackberry curd and creamy dark chocolate ganache.

The fine print

The water was calm that night and the entire service appeared well-rehearsed — absent of any major hiccups and even graceful at moments. As far as I could tell, there were no sea sick passengers or man-overboard scenarios, which felt like some kind of success, though I did wonder what type of balance or physical dexterity would be required to maneuver trays of wobbling martini glasses over stormier seas.

Though tiered pricing exists for Craft — for different seats, times of day or days of the week — there’s no overlooking that a trip aboard the vessel isn’t cheap.

With neither drinks nor gratuity included in the booking price, if you’re looking to enjoy the evening with a couple of libations, it’s going to cost you. The add-ons can feel excessive, from a $50 king crab leg tray to the pre-boarding photograph crew members try to sell you at the end of the night. A suggested gratuity is presented on your bill, based on the total sales tallied for the table that evening, including the cost of the original reservation.

Some changes are bound to be expected as the company assesses guest interest and feedback. Even after the first week, it appears some prices have been slightly adjusted. Dinner for two people seated in the dining room with window seats now comes to $369.89 after taxes and marine fees, while weekend brunches for the same seats start at $89.95 per person.

It’s hard to imagine making dining here a regular occurrence, but for a special occasion, an evening aboard Craft can be a real delight.

Next time, though, I’ll remember to leave myself plenty of time to get there.

Helen Freund is the food and dining critic, reporting on and reviewing restaurants throughout Tampa Bay. Reach her at [email protected].

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