cl 16 sailboat

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CL 16 was introduced in 1967-68, and it is a Canadian-designed 16’ sloop sailboat. It was designed by Henry Croce and Ken Lofthouse in Mahone Bay, NS. CL 16 is considered to have a similar design to the Wayfarer dinghy but with a few changes and upgrades. In 1968 its production was transferred to Toronto from Mahone Bay.

About the CL 16

CL 16 is a boat with an open cockpit, and it has a double hull design. CL 16 has a retractable centerboard. The sail plan includes a Marconi rig and the main jib and symmetrical spinnaker.

CL 16 has L.O.A of 16’0”4.88m and weight 395 Lbs 179 kg with mainsail 95 sq ft 8.82 sq.m. Other equipment found in CL 16 include white or off-white hull, multi-stripe mahogany side benches and thwarts as well as hiking straps.

The CL 16 comes with an impressive pivoting fiberglass rudder blade with an aluminum head, tiller, and golf-grip extension and a pivoting fiberglass centerboard.

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Looking to buy a new headsail or mainsail for your CL 16? Request a free quote from Precision Sails for a new custom sail. Our team will work with you to design the perfect sail for you.

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C&L Boatworks

Named after the two founders, Croce and Lofthouse, who developed the CL 16, first built in 1968. CL BOATWORKS Head Office: 446 Hamilton Road Belleville, ON. (905) 871-4625

Associations

• Sandpiper 565 Owners group
• Andre Cornu
• Ian Proctor/Graham Dodd / George Blanchard
• Leonardo da Costa Sayago

6 sailboats built by C&L Boatworks

Sandpiper 565.

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CL 16 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of CL 16. Built by C&L Boatworks and designed by undefined, the boat was first built in 1968. It has a hull type of Centerboard Dinghy and LOA is 4.88. Its sail area/displacement ratio 42.68. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

CL 16 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about CL 16 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, contributions, who builds cl 16.

CL 16 is built by C&L Boatworks.

When was CL 16 first built?

CL 16 was first built in 1968.

How long is CL 16?

CL 16 is 4.52 m in length.

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Double-handed sailing dinghy CL16 regatta CL16 symmetric spinnaker

Characteristics

4.88 m (16'00" )

Description

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Other CL Sailboats products

• Sailing dinghy
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• Single-handed sailing dinghy
• Multiple sailing dinghy
• Regatta sailing dinghy
• Catboat sailing dinghy
• Instructional sailing dinghy
• Skiff sailing dinghy
• Asymmetric spinnaker sailing dinghy
• Single-trapeze sailing dinghy
• Symmetric spinnaker sailing dinghy

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CL 16 Sailboat Dolly

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Description

Dynamic Type 5 dolly for the CL16. Proudly made in the USA by Dynamic Dollies and custom sized for your boat, offering a great fit ease of maneuvering. Shipped in an easy to assemble kit. Dynamic Type 5 Dolly

• This style is made for heavier or double handed boats, e.g., Club 420, Capri 14.2, Coronado 15, larger inflatables or aluminum boats with motors, and more.
• Boat-specific tube and sling lengths provide a custom fit for each boat, enabling a balanced handle load and easy maneuvering.
• All joint fittings are through-bolted and designed for increased torque stability.
• Strong, 3 inch non-stretch, polyester sling provides wrap-around boat support.
• Adjustable, flexible V-fittings on bow and tongue tubes provide boat support forward of the sling and prevent boat and aluminum contact.
• Eyelets on sling and handle fittings facilitate securing boat to dolly in storage, on trailers or in racks. Tie-down with the handle fitting eyelet helps prevent slippage on steep ramps.
• Easy dolly breakdown using the snap buttons on wheel shaft and tongue tube, as well as wing nuts on axle tube cross fitting.
• Pneumatic, non-corrosive, 16 inch x 4 inch wheels can be secured on wheel shaft with provided screws for added security. For soft sand conditions, tire pressure can be reduced to increase tire footprint.
• Ships in an easy to assemble kit.
• Proudly made in the USA by Dynamic Dollies and Racks.

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Motor Mount for old CL16 Sailboat

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Hope I am posting this in the right forum... I need help finding a compatible motor mount for an older (1983) CL16 Sailboat by CL Boatworks. I have tried repeatedly to contact someone at C&L Boatworks, but they appear to no longer be operational. I once got one reply, but no more responses despite multiple Emails and Facebook posts to them. There are 4 bolts on my transom that are for a motor mount that used to be made for my boat but is long gone by the time I purchased it. I just want to put on a small trolling motor.. I tried putting it on the actual transom, but it gets tangled-up with the lines and I need it mounted "further back" to be out of the way. I am attaching a photo that shows the 4 bolts on my transom, and then a "sketch" I made that shows the distance between the bolts. It shows they are 6 inches apart "wide" and 3 1/2 inches apart "vertical". I believe these boats used to have some sort of wooden mount that went here that you could then mount a trolling motor or even a small outboard to. I have looked at a number of motor mounts on Amazon and other sites, and even purchased a few (but then returned them) because the bolt patterns are different and I don't want to drill additional holes in my transom and am hoping can find whatever used to here.. Also, there is no sort of "BLOCKING" inside my boat where these bolts lead, so whatever I put on must be very light. since I don't want to put too much stress on the transom. I found a very light trolling motor by "Watersnake" that is less then 10 pounds and I have confirmed it can move my boat, so I just need something that will fit those bolts and have some sort of "mounting plate" where I can attach the trolling motor. Thanks for any help or advice you can provide. Regards, Michael  

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• einstein-cl16-motor-bolt-pattern.pdf 160.9 KB Views: 210

I'd probabliy just build one out of marine plywood. Make a box with no top or bottom that sets the motor back far enough. Bolt the front to the transom using the existing holes and then hang the motor off the back. I would use a backing plate of some sort on the inside of the transom to spread the load form the bolts though.  

Thanks for the advice... I have actually started to consider that as an option. What is the best option for "Marine Grade" plywood (wood type), and any idea best place to get it? Could I just get exterior grade plywood from my local home depot, or is that not good enough? And how do I need to finish it? Could I just stain it and then use a marine varnish to waterproof it? Would that work? And presume I would use stainless steel bolts and washers.. And isn't there a special "marine sealant" you use after you put the bolts through to waterproof the holes? Thanks for the help... Michael  

Many lumberyards have marine grade plywood. For this purpose you probably would get away with exterior grade ply if it's sealed with varnish - might have to replace it sooner. I generally use a urethane varnish to cover wood like this. Give it a few coats & it should be OK. Would not stain it. I'd be concerned about the stain bleeding. Your other option would be to make a plywood adapter plate that has holes to match those in your transom and another set to match a commercial motor mount like the one posted below. That might be the easiest thing of all. Stainless bolts always. Anything else will rust. As to marine sealant, you have stumbled into one of the great areas of controversy. Many use silicone. They may be cursed by sbsequent owners of their boat. Many others (and they are correct) say never use anything with silicone on a boat. It leaves a residue that makes getting anything else to stick later a real problem. The best thing IMHO is butyl tape. It easily conforms to the surfaces & seals, but also comes off when you want it to. Look for MaineSail's posts here on how to use it (he sells a very good grade as well). I use nothing else to seal any penetrations in the boat & have no problem with leaks.  

einstem said: ..... I once got one reply, but no more responses despite multiple Emails and Facebook posts to them Click to expand...

I have tried to call them via good old landline.... was actually the first thing I tried... since I wanted to speak with someone to explain in detail everything I was looking for. Unfortunately, the listed phone number appears to no longer function and I get a message that the "call cannot be connected as dialed" when dialing it. I tried googling alternate numbers for them, but only get the phone number listed on the C&L boatworks website, which doesn't work. I have tried to make my emails very specific and explicit, and received back one response only, and no further responses since. I recognize things are crazy for small companies due to Covid, but things in Canada (where they are located) are not as dire as some other places, and I would hope to get some sort of response, or even an acknowledgment that they will get to it, even if delayed. Frustrating situation indeed... Michael  

You could probably use dimensional lumber. You might want to build a backing plate. Either ply or dimensional lumber should work. I might try finishing it with white paint to match the colour of the hull. I have attached a pic of the trolling motor mount that was on my boat when I bought it. The previous owner built it, looks like just a spruce 2x4. It lasted a number of years until I creamed it off a limestone wall leaving a lock. I never replaced it, because I prefer my gas motor.  

I've danced the motor mount cha-cha a couple of times now. Building one yourself is one way to avoid drilling new holes in your transom. The easier (and I think better) way is use a mount like snash has suggested, but instead of mounting it directly to your transom, mount it to a piece of starboard or g10, then mount that piece to your transom using the existing bolt-holes. An adapter, if you will. Both G10 and starboard are waterproof and UV resistant. No finishing or protective coatings needed. And yes, use stainless nuts, bolts and washers. The biggest washers you can get. And I would reinforce the inside of the transom too. Very simple. The high-class do it yourself way: glass a piece of marine-grade plywood (not available at Home Depot or Loews -- at least not the ones near me -- you will need to find a real lumber yard) over the bolt holes on the inside of the transom. Drill out the bolt holes again, this time at least two sizes larger than you need. Fill the holes with thickened epoxy. Let cure. Redrill through the epoxy for the proper sized bolts. This will keep any water intrusion from getting into the plywood core. A note about marine-grade plywood. It is preferred, but not necessary for something like this. If you are careful to seal the edges of the plywood with glass and epoxy, and you protect the holes with epoxy, then regular, exterior grade plywood will do you just fine for this application. The method I would use: using Gorilla Glue or another waterproof polyurethane glue, glue a piece of g10 or starboard (g10 is stiffer and probably better) over the bolt holes on the inside of the transom. Drill holes through the g10 using the existing holes in the transom. Mount your adapter/motor mount using the old holes. Done. This assumes that the manufacturer sealed up the original bolt holes so that water wouldn't get into the core. If the transom is uncored, then no worries. But if it is cored and the plywood or balsa is exposed in the holes, then I'd seal them up as noted above with thickened epoxy and redrill.  

Yeah.. I'm starting to get the feeling that I need to probably build this myself at this point.. I'm new to sailing and marine work. Learning as I go... And the transom is just fiberglass.. no wood core.. its a fairly light boat.. that's why I want to put some type of "backer" behind it.. Any idea where I can find a small piece of "G10" or "starboard"? And what "thickness" should I be looking for? Half inch? Inch? And how do you attach the motor mount into the starboard.. can I use a stainless steel "screw" (do they "hold" in it?) or does it need to be a "bolt" with a washer from behind? Sorry for so many questions.. want to do this right, and my marina doesn't really provide any help for 'sailboats'... unless you are fixing an engine, they aren't too interested and would charge a mint to do something custom like this... Thanks. Michael  

Current G10 (FR-4 Flame Rated) Fiberglass Board 1/2"

While you are designing your trolling motor mount, you may want to put some serious thought into how you are going to secure a potentially 40 or 50 pound battery. As CL 16's are unballasted dinghies, the securing method for the battery needs to be totally secure. A loose battery can do a lot of damage in a capsize.  

Can't fnd the edit function in the new format. Always use through-bolts for something like this. At a minimum use backing washers on anything that's through-bolted. For this application, I'd make a backing plate the same size as what is on the outside of the transom and put the bolts through that as well. That will spread the load from your motor out.  

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