lightning sailboat kit

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West Coast Sailing is your source for Lightning sailboat parts and accessories. The Lightning has 60 years of tradition behind it. This competitive 19-foot trailerable centerboarder is one of the most competitive one-design classes today. But whether you're interested in serious racing or just want to go for a ride, the Lightning gives you what you're looking for. Some great sailors have been 'struck by Lightning': Ted Turner, Dennis Conner, Ken Read, Bill Shore, and Greg Fisher to name a few.

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Lightning Jib Sheet 2:1 Continuous

Lightning Jib Sheet 2:1

Lightning Jib Sheet 1:1

Lightning Mainsheet (Fusion)

Lightning Mainsheet (SSR)

Lightning Spin Halyard

Lightning Spinsheet (SSR)

Lightning Spinsheet Tapered

Lightning Spinsheet (Ultra-Lite)

Harken 13 mm Traveler Car w/ Shackle

Harken Cam Cleat Swivel Base w/ 150 Aluminum Cam

Harken 22 mm Double Upright Bullet Block

Harken 40 mm Carbo Block Traveler w/ 29 mm Block

Harken 29 mm Carbo Clew Blocks w/ Ring

Harken Thru-Deck 44 mm Dinghy Block

Ronstan Cam Cleat Fairlead Medium Grey

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Rigging - halyards, sheets, and wires.

West Coast Sailing has a full range of designs for all Lightning running and standing rigging which can be built to order in our rig shop. Email our team at [email protected] to learn more . Products coming to our online store Spring 2022.

Rigging Diagram

Use the diagram below to reference Harken part numbers to appropriate application on your Lightning sailboat. Parts recommendations are offered as a guide for common applications.

Adjustable Ball bearing Lead Car

Upgrading to an adjustable lead car system allows you to change your lead under sail without having to tack to unload the car. The Micro CB traveler cars are very small and lightweight, but strong—perfect for the Lightning.

Belowdeck Vang System

This split boom vang lets you easily adjust the vang from both sides while hiking. The 24:1 purchase uses lightweight Carbo blocks for the power needed to control sail shape without adding weight to the boat. The cascading system uses small high-tech line to help keep everything clean above deck.

Diagram provided by Harken. West Coast Sailing is an approved seller of Harken sailboat hardware.

Looking for other sailboat parts? We can help!

General Parts & Hardware - We offer a huge selection of  General Parts  including hardware, blocks, cleats, shackles, accessories and more here .

Product Suggestions - If you're looking for a specific part for Lightning sailboat that you cannot find, let us know. We are actively working to expand our one design parts offering and welcome your input for parts you think we should be stocking to make it easier for you to get back out on the water. Submit you idea via our Product Suggestion Form   (opens in new tab).

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Lightning Sailboat 19" Boat Kit

• Balsa Wood Framing
• Mahogany Planks
• Great For Static Display

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• (1) Lightning Sailboat Kit

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Inc. Lightning Sailboat 19 DUM1110 Boats Kits Sailboat

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• Balsa Wood Framing
• Mahogany Planks
• Great For Static Display

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If you prefer the leisurely pace of free sailing (just watching your boat go where the wind takes it), the Lightning is for you. This one inch equals one foot (1:12) scale replica of the Lightning Class boat also makes a beautiful display model for your office or living room. This kit is made up of plywood frames and handsome mahogany planking. Nylon sails add the finishing touch to this kit. Length 19 inches. Beam 6-1/2 inches. Mast 26 inches. Assembly required

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Customer Review: Fun build, added custom RC

Kris Kasprzak

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Lightning Sailboat Model Kit

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Shipping & Returns

• Combination of laser cut and die cut wooden parts for quality fit
• Nylon sails and rigging
• Step-by-step instructions
• Length 19" x Beam 6-1/2" x Mast 26"
• Skill Level: Introductory Beginner some building experience helpful

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Lightning Sailboat Parts & Equipment

Lightning Travel / Deck Cover

Lightning Mooring Cover

Lightning Mast Bag

Lightning Rudder Cover

Lightning Hiking Strap

MAURIPRO Sails

Lightning training jib (cross cut), mps-1260-ods-jt1.

Lightning Training Mainsail (Cross Cut)

Mps-1260-ods-mt1.

Offshore Spars

Lightning spinnaker pole - carbon (uni-directional heavy duty), ofs-cpole-lightning-s-n-d.

Lightning Spinnaker Pole - Carbon (Woven Twill Light Weight)

Ofs-cpole-lightning-t-n-d.

Block - Carbo 29mm Single - Fixed Head

Block - Carbo 29mm Single - Cheek

Block - Carbo 40mm Single - Fixed Head

Cam Cleat Standard - X-Treme Angle Fairlead

Block - Carbo 29mm Single - Swivel / Becket

Block - Carbo 29mm Double - Linked by Clew

13 mm Low-Beam Micro Track - 0.6 m

Har2707600mm.

Cam Cleat 150 - Cam-Matic

Block - Wire High Strength 25mm - Wire

Block - Carbo 40mm Double - Traveler

Block - Classic Bullet 29mm Double - Upright

Block - Carbo 29mm Double - Swivel

Block - Classic Bullet Dinghy 44mm Single - Through-Deck

13mm Micro CB Tracks - Low Beam - 1.0 m

Block - Carbo 29mm Triple - Swivel

Class description.

The Lightning, a 19-foot trailerable centerboard sloop, designed by Sparkman & Stephens as an affordable family day sailor and racing boat. She has evolved into one of the most popular and competitive one-design racing classes in the world. The Lightning's rig is simple, but offers sophisticated sail shape controls. The hull features a unique hard chine design that combines the stability that provides sail-carrying power, with flat bottom sections that promote planing. There's room in the cockpit for two couples or a family to daysail. The Lightning is easy to launch and light enough to trailer with ease. In the event of a capsize, she can be righted and sailed dry by her crew. Get "The Best of Both Worlds.

Class Specs

Copyright © 2024 mauripro sailing llc..

Lightning Sailboat 19 Kit

This 1" to 1' scale replica of the Lightning class boat also makes a beautiful display model for your office or living room. The kit is made up of plywood frames and handsome mahogany planking. Nylon sails add the finishing touch to this kit.

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• Length 19 inches
• Beam 6-1/2 inches
• Mast 26 inches
• Sail Control Unit Not designed for radio control
• Dumas Product Number: 1110

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• Lightning Sailboat 19 Kit

Dumas Lightning Sailboat 19 Kit

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Lightning Class News

About the lightning.

• Design: Sparkman & Stephens, 1938
• Over 15,000 built
• More than 100 active Fleets worldwide
• Length: 19'0" (5.8m)
• Beam: 6'6" (2m)
• Displacement: 700 lb (318 kg
• Draft (board down): 4'11" (151.3cm)(board up): 5" (12.8cm)
• Mast height: 26'2" (7.9m)
• Sail area (main & jib): 177 sq.ft. / spinnaker): 300 sq.ft.

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Team Diaz wins the  Masters' World Championship with 4 points. Team Goldman finishes second with 7 points and Jody Starck and her team in 3rd with 9 pts.  

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Lightning Sailboat 19" Boat Kit

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Key features.

• Balsa Wood Framing
• Mahogany Planks
• Great For Static Display
• (1) Lightning Sailboat Kit

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Dumas Lightning Sailboat

$ 80.00

Wooden Model Ship Lightning by Dumas Part #DU1110 Scale: 1’=1″; Length: 19 inches; Beam: 6.5 inches; Mast: 26 inches

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Description, additional information.

Wooden Model Ship Lightning by Dumas

If you prefer the leisurely pace of free sailing (just watching your boat go where the wind takes it), the Lightning is for you. This one inch equals one foot scale replica of the Lightning Class boat also makes a beautiful display model for your office or living room. This kit is made up of plywood frames and handsome mahogany planking. Nylon sails add the finishing touch to this kit.

Scale: 1’=1″; Length: 19 inches; Beam: 6.5 inches; Mast: 26 inches

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Product Key Features

• Year Manufactured 2015
• Color Multicolor
• Age Level 17 Years & Up
• Customized No
• Material Wood
• Subject Lightning

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Lightning Model Kit

Description.

More due in early March

This is one of the most popular kits we have ever offered. It might be because it is pretty simple to build, or that it's a handsome boat. But because so many folks order two, we think it is because they are so much fun to race.

Made with precision pre-cut balsa frames and mahogany planking, the kit includes plans, thorough instructions, nylon sails, line for rigging, and hardware. Plus it has a lead weight which you attach to the bottom of the centerboard if you are going to sail it. 

This Lightning scale replica is a great way to learn about boats, without having to spend the time on precise cutting. You supply the varnish, paint, glue, and a few household tools, everything else is included. Designed for sailing on your favorite "golden pond" or as a handsome addition to your mantelpiece. Couple of building tips: clothespins make great clamps, and styrofoam (not the corn-starch based type) peanuts make great flotation under the foreward and aft decks. This model is not designed for remote control. If you sail on a larger pond and don't have a chase boat, kite string/spool are very handy.

Scale: 1" =1' LOA: 19" Beam: 6 1/2" Height: 26" Note: that stand in the photo isn't included... we made that in just a few minutes from scrap wood. You'll likely make something prettier!

Skill Level = 1

Skill levels are: 1 = beginner 2 = intermediate 3 = advanced

If you'd like a better understanding of just what you are getting yourself in for, click: INSTRUCTIONS.   

You'll supply paint, and simple household tools:

Razor / X-acto knife, ruler, wood glue, super glue, Course, Medium, and Fine grit sandpaper, small paint brush, masking tape, 3/32" drill bit, needle, thread, pliers and cutting pliers, pins, clothespins for clamps.

Customer Reviews

My son and I built this boat(he mostly watched). Very fulfilling, nice kit, he sails it in the pool. Money/time well spent!

I bought this for my brother, and he loves it. He said it is way better than the plastic models he’s done lately, getting more involved with shaping and sanding the pieces. The quality of the materials and intimacy of the directions feels like he’s building with the producer, not a faceless company. I’m betting he gets more kits in the future!

Very nice kit!

I like the kit. It is very complete. The instructions are good, but require a lot if flipping back and fourth between the text and the diagrams. I started off using cyanoacrylate glue, that was a mistake. Now I’m using wood glue and the build is going much better. I am about half way. It is a fun model to build. Mine will be painted to match the Lightning I once had, 13703.

I have built many wooden boat models over the years but haven’t done so for about 10 years. This is a great starter, just read through the instructions first and take your time.

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Collection: lightning parts, lightning spreader repair tip, lightning rubber centerboard stop, lightning main halyard, lightning jib halyard above deck, lightning fitted mast block, lightning upper shroud, lightning transom hinge with plexiglass, lightning delrin mast blocks set, lightning spreader collar, lightning holed mast block, lightning rub rail (new style), lightning drain plug, lightning lifting bridle, lightning transom bailer kit, subscribe to our emails.

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Dumas Products

Serving the model hobby industry since 1947. Office hours Monday-Thursday 7:30 am – 4:00 pm MST. Closed Friday-Sunday.

Plans & Inst.-Kit #1110-Lightning

Description.

Plans & Instructions for Kit #1110-Lightning

**Please Note** Plans are not suited for scratch build.

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Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

Sailing in lightning: how to keep your yacht safe

• In partnership with Katy Stickland
• July 22, 2022

How much of a concern is a lightning strike to a yacht and what can we do about it? Nigel Calder looks at what makes a full ‘belt and braces’ lightning protection system

Storm clouds gather at Cowes, but what lightning protection system, if any, does your boat have for anchoring or sailing in lightning? Credit: Patrick Eden/Alamy Stock Photo

Most sailors worry about sailing in lightning to some extent, writes Nigel Calder .

After all, going around with a tall metal pole on a flat sea when storm clouds threaten doesn’t seem like the best idea to most of us.

In reality, thunder storms need plenty of energy, driven by the sun, and are much less frequent in northern Europe than in the tropics.

However, high currents passing through resistive conductors generate heat.

Small diameter conductors melt; wooden masts explode; and air gaps that are bridged by an arc start fires.

Sailing in lightning: Lightning is 10 times more likely over land than sea, as the land heats up more than water, providing the stronger convection currents needed to create a charge. Credit: BAE Inc/Alamy Stock Photo

On boats, radio antennas may be vaporised, and metal thru-hulls blown out of the hull, or the surrounding fiberglass melted, with areas of gelcoat blown off.

Wherever you sail, lightning needs to be taken seriously.

Understanding how lightning works, will help you evaluate the risks and make an informed decision about the level of protection you want on your boat and what precautions to take.

Most lightning is what’s called negative lightning, between the lower levels of clouds and the earth. Intermittent pre-discharges occur, ionising the air.

Whereas air is normally a poor electrical conductor, ionised air is an excellent conductor.

These pre-discharges (stepped leaders) are countered by a so-called attachment spark (streamer), which emanates from pointed objects (towers, masts, or lightning rods) that stand out from their surroundings due to their height.

Summer is the season for lightning storms in the UK. Here, one finds early at Instow, Devon. Credit: Terry Matthews/Alamy Stock Photo

This process continues until an attachment spark connects with a stepped leader, creating a lightning channel of ionised air molecules from the cloud to ground.

The main discharge, typically a series of discharges, now takes place through the lightning channel.

Negative lightning bolts are 1 to 2km (0.6 to 1.2 miles) long and have an average current of 20,000A.

Positive lightning bolts are much rarer and they can have currents of up to 300,000A.

Preventing damage when sailing in lightning

A lightning protection system (LPS) is designed to divert lightning energy to ground (in this case the sea), in such a way that no damage occurs to the boat or to people.

Ideally, this also includes protecting a boat’s electrical and electronic systems, but marine electronics are sensitive and this level of protection is hard to achieve.

Lightning protection systems have two key components: First, a mechanism to provide a path with as little resistance as possible that conducts a lightning strike to the water.

This is established with a substantial conductor from an air-terminal to the water.

Components of an external and internal lightning protection system. Credit: Maxine Heath

This part of the LPS is sometimes called external lightning protection.

Second, a mechanism to prevent the development of high voltages on, and voltage differences between, conductive objects on the boat.

This is achieved by connecting all major metal objects on and below deck to the water by an equipotential bonding system.

Without this bonding system high enough voltage differences can arise on a boat to develop dangerous side flashes.

The bonding system can be thought of as internal lightning protection.

Rolling ball concept

Lightning standards, which apply ashore and afloat, define five lightning protection ‘classes’, ranging from Class V (no protection) to Class I.

There are two core parameters: the maximum current the system must be able to withstand, which determines the sizing of various components in the system, and the arrangement and number of the air terminals, aka lightning rods.

Let’s look at the arrangement of the air terminals first. It is best explained by the rolling ball concept.

A lightning strike is initiated by the stepped leaders and attachment sparks connecting to form the lightning channel.

The distance between the stepped leader and the attachment sparks is known as the breakdown distance or striking distance.

If we imagine a ball with a radius equal to the striking distance, and we roll this ball around an object to be protected, the upper points of contact define the possible lightning impact points that need to be protected by air terminals.

Lightning protection theories and classifications rely on a ‘rolling ball’ concept to define requirements, areas of risk and protected areas. Credit: Maxine Heath

The air terminal will theoretically provide a zone of protection from the point at which the terminal connects with the circumference of the rolling ball down to the point at which that circumference touches the water.

The shorter the striking distance, the less the radius of the rolling ball and the smaller the area within the protection zone defined by the circumference of the rolling ball.

The smaller the protection zone, the more air terminals we need. So, we use the shortest striking distance to determine the minimum number and location of air terminals.

Class I protection assumes a rolling ball radius of 20m; Class II assumes a rolling ball radius of 30m.

Continues below…

Lightning: why we were struck

A personal investigation into how and why a catamaran was hit by lightning

‘Lightning destroyed the boat’s electronics’

Paul Tinley recounts a truly shocking lightning experience aboard his Beneteau 393 Blue Mistress and the subsequent insurance claim

Expert advice: boating emergency

A boating emergency is the sort of thing that everyone taking to the water should be prepared for even if,…

How batteries can explode – and how to avoid it

Marine electrical expert Nigel Calder explains why boat batteries emit hydrogen and how to minimise the dangers

Boat building standards are based on a striking distance/rolling ball radius of 30m (Class II).

For masts up to 30m above the waterline, the circumference of the ball from the point at which it contacts the top of the mast down to the water will define the zone of protection.

For masts higher than 30m above the waterline, the ball will contact the mast at 30m and this will define the limit of the zone of protection.

If Class I protection is wanted, the radius of the ball is reduced to 20m, which significantly reduces the zone of protection and, on many larger recreational boats, may theoretically necessitate more than one air terminal.

Protection classes

With most single-masted monohull yachts, an air terminal at the top of the mast is sufficient to protect the entire boat to Class I standards.

The circumference of the rolling ball from the tip of the mast down to the surface of the water does not intercept any part of the hull or rig.

However, someone standing on the fore or aft deck might have the upper part of their body contact the rolling ball, which tells us this is no place to be in a lightning storm.

Some boats have relatively high equipment or platforms over and behind the cockpit.

Protection classes to protect your boat while anchored or sailing in lightning

These fittings and structures may or may not be outside the circumference of the rolling ball.

Once again, this tells us to avoid contact with these structures during a lightning storm.

Ketch, yawl, and schooner rigged boats generally require air terminals on all masts, except when the mizzen is significantly shorter than the main mast.

The external LPS

The external LPS consists of the air terminal, a down conductor, and an earthing system – a lightning grounding terminal.

The down conductor is also known as a primary lightning protection conductor.

All components must be sized to carry the highest lightning peak current corresponding to the protection class chosen.

In particular, the material and cross-sectional area of the air terminal and down conductor must be such that the lightning current does not cause excessive heating.

The air terminal needs to extend a minimum of 150mm above the mast to which it is attached.

A graph depicting NASA’s record of yearly global lightning events. The Congo once recorded more than 450 strikes per km2

It can be a minimum 10mm diameter copper rod, or 13mm diameter aluminum solid rod.

It should have a rounded, rather than a pointed, top end.

VHF antennas are commonly destroyed in a lightning strike.

If an antenna is hit and is not protected by a lightning arrestor at its base, the lightning may enter the boat via the antenna’s coax cable.

A lightning arrestor is inserted in the line between the coax cable and the base of the antenna.

It has a substantial connection to the boat’s grounding system, which, on an aluminum mast, is created by its connection to the mast.

In normal circumstances, the lightning arrestor is nonconductive to ground.

When hit by very high voltages it shorts to ground, in theory causing a lightning strike to bypass the coax – although the effectiveness of such devices is a matter of some dispute.

Down conductors

A down conductor is the electrically conductive connection between an air terminal and the grounding terminal.

For many years, this conductor was required to have a resistance no more than that of a 16mm² copper conductor, but following further research, the down conductor is now required to have a resistance not greater than that of a 20mm² copper conductor.

For Class I protection, 25mm² is needed. This is to minimise heating effects.

Let’s say instead we use a copper conductor with a cross-sectional area of 16mm² and it is hit by a lightning strike with a peak current corresponding to Protection Class IV.

Sailing in lightning: This catamaran relies upon cabling to ground from the shrouds but stainless steel wire is not a good enough conductor. Credit: Wietze van der Laan

The conductor will experience a temperature increase of 56°C. A 16mm² conductor made of stainless steel (for example, rigging ) will reach well over 1,000°C and melt or evaporate.

Shrouds and stays on sailboats should be connected into a LPS only to prevent side flashes.

The cross-sectional area of the metal in aluminum masts on even small sailboats is such that it provides a low enough resistance path to be the down conductor.

Whether deck- or keel-mounted, the mast will require a low resistance path, equivalent to a 25mm² copper conductor, from the base of the mast to the grounding terminal.

Grounding terminal

Metal hulled boats can use the hull as the grounding terminal. All other boats need an adequate mass of underwater metal.

In salt water this needs a minimum area of 0.1m². In fresh water, European standards call for the grounding terminal to be up to 0.25m².

A grounding terminal must be submerged under all operating conditions.

An external lead or iron keel on monohull sailing boats can serve as a grounding terminal.

This owner of this Florida-based yacht decided to keep the keel out of the equation when is came to a grounding plate. High electrical currents don’t like sharp corners, so a grounding plate directly beneath the mast makes for an easier route to ground. Credit: Malcolm Morgan

In the absence of a keel , the cumulative surface area of various underwater components – propellers, metal thru-hulls, rudders – is often more than sufficient to meet the area requirements for a grounding terminal.

However, these can only be considered adequate if they are situated below the air terminal and down conductor and individually have the requisite surface area.

Metal through-hulls do not meet this requirement.

If underwater hardware, such as a keel, is adequate to be used as the grounding terminal, the interconnecting conductor is part of the primary down conductor system and needs to be sized accordingly at 25mm².

Propellers and radio ground plates

Regardless of its size, a propeller is not suitable as a grounding terminal for two reasons.

First, it is very difficult to make the necessary low-resistance electrical connection to the propeller shaft, and second, the primary conductor now runs horizontally through the boat.

The risk of side flashes within the boat, and through the hull to the water is increased.

Sailing in lightning: GRP hull, fairing filler and iron keel will have carried different voltages during the strike – hence this damage

An engine should never be included in the main (primary) conducting path to a grounding terminal.

On modern engines, sensitive electronic controls will be destroyed in a lightning strike, and on all engines, oil in bearings and between gears will create resistance and therefore considerable heat which is likely to result in internal damage.

However, as it is a large conductive object, the engine should be connected to the internal lightning protection system.

Internal lightning protection

On its way to ground, lightning causes considerable voltage differences in adjacent objects – up to hundreds of thousands of volts.

This applies to boats with a functioning external lightning protection system but without internal protection.

Although the lightning has been given a path to ground along which it will cause as little damage as possible, dangerous voltages can be generated elsewhere, resulting in arcing and side flashes, threatening the boat and crew, and destroying electronic equipment.

We prevent these damaging voltage differences from arising by connecting all substantial metal objects on the boat to a common grounding point.

One of the holy grails of marine photography – a direct lightning strike on a yacht’s mast. Credit: Apex

The grounding terminal is also wired to the common grounding point.

By tying all these circuits and objects together we hold them at a common voltage, preventing the build-up of voltage differences between them.

All conductive surfaces that might be touched at the same time, such as a backstay and a steering wheel, need to be held to the same voltage.

If the voltages are the same, there will be no arcing and no side flashes.

The bonding conductors in this internal LPS need to be stranded copper with a minimum size of 16mm².

Note that there can be bonding of the same object for corrosion prevention, lightning protection, and sometimes DC grounding.

We do not need three separate conductors.

Electronic Device Protection

With lightning protection systems, we need to distinguish electric circuit and people protection from device protection.

Even with an internal LPS, high induced voltages may occur on ungrounded conductors (such as DC positive) which will destroy any attached electronics.

A mechanism is needed to short high transient voltages to ground.

This is done with surge protection devices (SPD), also known as transient voltage surge suppressors (TVSS) or lightning arrestors.

Marine-specific SPDs are few in number and domestic models are not suitable for boats

In normal circumstances these devices are non-conductive, but if a specified voltage – the clamping voltage – is exceeded they divert the spike to ground.

There are levels of protection defined in various standards depending on the voltages and currents that can be handled, the speed with which this occurs, and other factors.

This is a highly technical subject for which it is advisable to seek professional support.

Most SPDs are designed for AC circuits.

When it comes to DC circuits there are far fewer choices available to boat owners although there are an increasing number for solar installations that may be appropriate.

There is no such thing as a lightning-proof boat, only a lightning-protected boat, and for this there needs to be a properly installed LPS.

Nigel Calder is a lifelong sailor and author of Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual. He is involved in setting standards for leisure boats in the USA

Even so, in a major strike the forces involved are so colossal that no practical measures can be guaranteed to protect sensitive electronic equipment.

For this, protection can be provided with specialised surge protection devices (SPDs).

The chances of a direct lightning strike on a yacht are very small, and the further we are north or south of the equator, the smaller this chance becomes.

It’s likely your chances of receiving a direct lightning strike are very much higher on a golf course than at sea.

‘Bottle brush’-type lightning dissipators are claimed by sellers to make a boat invisible to lightning by bleeding off static electrical charge as it builds up.

The theory rests upon the concept that charged electrons from the surface of the earth can be made to congregate on a metal point, where the physical constraints caused by the geometry of the point will result in electrons being pushed off into the surrounding atmosphere via a ‘lightning dissipator’ that has not just one point, but many points.

It is worth noting that the concept has met with a storm of derision from many leading academics who have argued that the magnitude of the charge that can be dissipated by such a device is insignificant compared to that of both a cloud and individual lightning strikes.

It seems that the viable choices for lightning protection remain the LPS detailed above, your boatbuilder’s chosen system (if any), or taking one’s chances with nothing and the (reasonable) confidence that it’s possible to sail many times round the world with no protection and suffer no direct strikes.

Whichever way you go, it pays to stay off the golf course!

Enjoyed reading Sailing in lightning: how to keep your yacht safe?

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Lightning Sailboat by Andrew J. - Dumas - Scale 1:12

By Andrew J. October 11, 2015 in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1901 - Present Day

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Hello, all. I have been a member here for almost a year now, but this will be my first build log. I normally build model cars, but it's been a good 2 1/2 years since I finished one, although I have started many since then. I thought maybe it was time to just try something completely different. I have always loved working with wood, so I thought I'd take a whack at this. This is my second wooden boat, the first being the Midwest Sakonnet Daysailer.

The Lightning has some significance to me, not really personally, as I have never been in one, but I work at the Skaneateles Country Club, where the first Lightning was launched in 1938. My end goal is to have it displayed in the club dining room and replace the tired old Revell 1:96 Cutty Sark that has resided there for many years and has a great many broken pieces and tangled, dusty rigging.

My plan is to paint the sides red, the bottom blue, with a white stripe at the water line to mimic the flag in the club's logo. I will leave the deck natural with a satin finish.

So far I think this kit is fantastic and I'm surprised it doesn't have more of an online presence. This will be the first build log of it on this site as far as I know. It has pretty standard basswood and balsa framing with mahogany veneer for the hull and deck. The new instructions, revised in 2009, I think, are superb and come with excellent diagrams for every step, much like a Midwest kit. It's made to be sailed, so the rigging is designed to be functional, the drawback being that it is very simple. I hope to find somebody at the club who will provide me with detailed instructions on how to rig a real Lightning, and then I can buy aftermarket blocks and cleats and rope and such. I will also need to make more accurate sails, as the kit comes with pre-made nylon sails that look awful. Any suggestions on material that would suitable in this scale would be much appreciated!

• Seaair122 , dgbot , pete48 and 6 others

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Back in the fifties, I watched these beautiful boats sail in regattas at Ocean City, NJ. I will enjoy following your log and may try building one myself for a change of pace since I am bogged down trying to finish a Pocher Mercedes. Looks like you are off to a good start. I found a lot of rigging plans on the internet but having a Lightning skipper for a resource would be awesome.

All the best

Birmingham, Al

• thibaultron

Before you paint the hull I would advise sealing the hull.  The Mahogany planks may absorb the paint requiring several coats of paint.  This you do not want.

Work in progress USS Maine in cardstock. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7446-uss-maine-by-dgbot-hmv-card/#entry220003

Completed Blockade runner Teazer  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6063-blockade-runner-teazer-by-dgbot-card-stock/#entry175967

Completed  The Monitor Lehigh  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6920-the-monitor-lehigh-by-dgbot-card-model/#entry203680

Completed Kingston Class MCVD  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/forum/10-kit-build-logs-in-progress/

skipper1947

I built one of these years ago and had completely forgotten it, but your pictures bring back memories. It was a sweet little model, I think I gave it to my daughter as a gift. It has started me thinking I might like to build it again as it fits my new criteria of small but interesting kits.

• thibaultron and Julie Mo

Thank you for the replies! I'm happy to see that there is some interest in this subject. If anybody is looking to get this kit, I highly recommend ordering it from Tower Hobbies; they have them in stock for only $48.99 right now, as opposed to the usual $60-70 that I have seen from many other stores.

What would be best for sealing the hull for painting? When I did the Sakonnet, I ended up plastering the whole thing with wood filler and then sanding it down until it was completely smooth. Should I get some actual sanding sealer, or would a couple coats of filler primer be sufficient?

Many years ago we owned a lightning sailboat.  While I don't remember the hull number, it was in the mid 5,000 and was built in the mid 1950's.  We moved it up to Madison, WI in the mid 70's, then my sister took it out to the San Francisco Bay in 1979.  She sold it in the mid 80's.  A four digit hull number was extremely rare in the bay area and she sold it for 3-4 times more than what we originally paid for it.     

The entire deck was covered with a painted canvas like material and tacked down with a 1" half round even with the deck height and nailed on the sides of the hull.  This canvas had to be replaced every few years.  I don't remember ever seeing a Lightning with a natural deck.  I'm thinking a natural finished deck would bee a bit to slick to stand on to set the spinnaker.  

Actually, the rigging on the Dumas model is very close to the real boat!   

-A wood mast was ~3" x 5" rectangle and tapered slightly and had a jumper strut and spreader

-Almost all main sails have 'windows' in the mainsail.

-There were turnbuckles located at the deck on the upper and lower shrouds

-The back stay was fixed, there was a way to take up any slack with the jib stay

-The mast rake was set using a series of 'T' shaped blocks- in the mast shoe / step in the bottom of the hull and on the deck

-There were floorboards in the cockpit, these varied in designed by builder.

-Seat designs varied, from one solid bench on each side, to u-shaped, full circular slats or grating benches, made from mahogany, cedar or teak.

-The cockpit was completely open under the fore and aft decks

-The main sail was attached with clips that slid on a track attached to the mast and boom. 

The part of the rigging that has changed significantly over the years is the main sheet and travelers.  Our Lightning had a very simple main sheet that was fixed with a cam cleat off the centerboard trunk.  The main sheet went through two small (1.5") fixed pulley blocks on the aft deck that acted as the traveler.  These pulleys changed to thread through the deck with the pulleys on the underside and the newer fiberglass Lightning's have high tech rigging.  Cam cleats were also used on the jib sheets.       

What I remember most about our Lightning was the rudder.  It was solid mahogany with a high gloss varnish finish and needed to be refinished every winter.  It was stored in a custom made quilted canvas bag.  

When you decide what year your Lightning was built, you can find hundreds of photos on the web showing how the main sheet / traveler were rigged.  

Current Build

 -   Glad Tidings -MS    

Completed Builds

 -   Dragon - Corel - One design International Class Yacht

  - Sloup Coquillier / Shell Fish Sloop - Corel - Based on 'Bergere de Domremy / Shepherdess from Domremy

 -   Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack - Scratch build based on drawings from Chapelle's book "American Small Sailing Craft" 

On the Shelf

 -  Gretel-Mamoli       -   Emma C. Berry-MS     -   Chesapeake Bay Pilot Boat, Semi-scratch 

Find yourself hoping you never reach your destination

A nice bit of useful info and history about an interesting vessel.

I use Zinsser Bulls Eye Sealcoat with good results.

• grsjax and mtaylor

Thank you Dee_Dee for your valuable first-hand information. I am now rethinking the deck and will probably paint it a flat tan or something. Now I can leave the rub rail, coaming, cockpit trim, and seats natural mahogany and they will stand out more.I will also leave the transom natural, as that seems to be fairly common, and I will try to scratch my own rudder out of the mahogany scraps.

I would like to try to replicate one of the earliest boats, so I will research as much as I can about how they were originally rigged.

Thank you for the recommendation, wlell. I just looked it up and read many great reviews, so I'll pick some up as soon as I can.

Anyway, she has a deck now. It comes in two halves and I think I did a pretty good of matching them up so there is barely a seam. Not that it matters, since I'll be smoothing it out and painting it anyway, but I'm still proud of my craftsmanship.

I must have done something right because she balances nicely while sitting on a flat surface.

• mtaylor , dgbot , GuntherMT and 3 others

Looking good Andrew and you are working with the old adage "You never have enough clamps."

I couldn't agree more. There are never enough clamps! Last week when I was putting one of the sides on, I had to hold a part of it against one of the frames with my own hand for 40 minutes. When it comes to funny angles and having to use only the perfect amount of force, I think there is no better clamp than the human hand. Unfortunately, it gets tired very quickly. Fortunately, it gets numb shortly thereafter! I do plan to get a couple more different kinds of clamps before my next build, though.

Hello Andrew, Very cool Boat, in the early 90's I built a full-size version, it's nice to see more modern small sailing craft being built. She's looking good. Nice work

Best Regards,

• michael mott and Andrew J.

"may your sails be full of wind and the sun on your back"   Current Builds :

  Future Builds :  

N.G Herreshoff 12 1/2 Scratch Build 3/4" = 1' - 0" Scale

Completed Builds :

Volvo 65 Farr Yacht Design

Herreshoff Alerion

Herreshoff Buzzards Bay 14

Volvo Open 70

  Member : 

The Herreshoff Registry                                  Montgomery Sailboat Owners Group       Peter Kunst Sailboat Models  http://www.herreshoffregistry.org/                         http://www.msog.org/                       http:// www.facebook.com/Peter-Kunst-Sailboat-Models-1524464774524480/  

I don't suppose there's any chance you still have the plans for that, would you? I would love to attempt to scratch-build another one of these in the same scale using the real plans.

Hello Andrew, unfortunately I do not have the plans anymore. ( along with a few other sets of plans that I wish I still had ) However they can be easily obtained thru the Lightning association

Well, I suppose you could say they're easy to obtain, but they cost $150, $100 of which are just for the registration of the hull number. It seems you can't buy just the plans without paying for the registration. I'm going to ask around at the country club to see if anybody there still has any laying around.

• pete48 and dgbot

Builders like Sparkman & Stephens charge a premium for their plans.  You can buy the plans only (no hull number) directly from the ILCA for $50.   FWIW, there's a lot of info and photos on the web to draw your own plans.      

• catopower and Julie Mo

Do you mean the plans for rebuilding an existing numbered lightning? When I first saw that option I figured it would be less detailed because they are for, as stated, rebuilding a boat that already exists, rather than building one up from scratch. Is my thinking incorrect? Are they, in fact, the exact same plans?

No, I'm referring to plans to build a new lightning.  

• dgbot and mtaylor

I don't mean to sound argumentative and I hope you don't think me somewhat dense, but I see no option to buy the plans without paying for the number. When I click 'add to cart', it comes up as one total of $150. There seems to be no way to buy one without the other.

Anyway, I have gotten this thread off-topic.

I have installed the keel strip and cut the center board slot. The thickness of the kit-provided center board is comically out of scale, so I'll be heading to my local hobby shop to pick up a piece of aluminum sheet to make a new one.

To fill small gaps, such as that which remained between the hull and the keel strip, I am using Elmer's 'color change' wood filler. It's extremely fine, dries very quickly, and is very easy to sand. It starts out purple and turns white when it's dry, so once it's all white, you know it's dry enough to sand. Fantastic stuff; I highly recommend it.

• grsjax , riksgewijs , dgbot and 1 other

Have you decided how you will mount the Lightning for display? I would think the deep centerboard might raise some issues which are best sorted out sooner than later.

She sure looks great so far.

Birmingham, Alabama

• Andrew J. and riksgewijs

The display issue has come up in my mind several times. I'm not sure exactly what it will look like, but it will probably be some sort of fitted cradle. The keel strip sticks down far enough to fit into a notch and keep it stable. I'm not sure if I want to permanently mount it to the stand, but I definitely know that I don't want to mount it on straight posts or drill holes in the hull.

I made my aluminum center board today. I'm actually not quite sure why I decided to use aluminum. Maybe I read about somebody else doing it. I probably should have just used a sheet of styrene. I even considered scrapping the aluminum and switching at many points along the way, but I kept going. After lots of grinding and filing and sanding I eventually came up with this. I've never really done anything with metal before, so I'm quite pleased with how it came out. Hopefully a couple coats of etching and filling primer will cover up the few small dings that still remain.

• dgbot , mtaylor and GuntherMT

Here's a quick mock-up with the CB in place. It's starting to look like a proper Lightning now!

• yvesvidal , mtaylor , dgbot and 2 others

I like your centerboard. I am sure most prototypes had dings and scratches. You might want to consider using two thin brass rod on either side of the CB to mount the Lightning similar to what I did on my Longboat.

• grsjax , Andrew J. and dgbot

A real beauty nice and sleek.

Even though I said I don't want to use straight posts, your longboat display just might change my mind. Most of the ones I've seen are too thick and visually distracting, but yours is very tastefully done. Is it quite stable? How far into the hull do the rods go? Mine is [hopefully] going to be displayed in a high-traffic area near the dining room entrance, and will be dusted and cleaned around frequently.

I made and installed the skeg today. It was supposed to be 1/8" balsa, from the same sheet as the frames, but that was both way too flimsy and wildly out of scale. In scale works out to 1/16", so I just used a scrap of mahogany, which is considerably more rigid.

The rudder also works out to 1/16", but will need to be made of plywood since it is much bigger. Any suggestions for favorite places to buy 1/16" plywood? From what I've gathered, birch is the most common, but I haven't yet found a good place to get a small piece for a reasonable amount.

Anyway, to install the skeg, I carved a small groove in the keel to make sure it's securely attached.

• mtaylor , pete48 , dgbot and 2 others

Are you near a Hobby Lobby.  The one near me carries Midwest Products and the last time I was in I saw some.

You wrote: Is it quite stable? How far into the hull do the rods go? Mine is [hopefully] going to be displayed in a high-traffic area near the dining room entrance, and will be dusted and cleaned around frequently.

It is quite stable. Because the longboat is not very heavy, the rods need only extend about 5 mm into the keel. Since your Lightning will be displayed in a high traffic area I would strongly recommend a display case to protect your beautiful model.

She really is sleek. I cannot wait to see more pictures. Thank you for sharing.

Birmingham, AL

• mtaylor and Andrew J.

A fine display of woodworking on this model. Looks super cool. Everything seems to be neat, clean and well constructed.

Regards, Scott

Current build: 1:75 Friesland, Mamoli

Completed builds:

1:64 Rattlesnake, Mamoli  -  1:64 HMS Bounty, Mamoli  -  1:54 Adventure, Amati  -  1:80 King of the Mississippi, AL

1:64 Blue Shadow, Mamoli  -  1:64 Leida Dutch pleasure boat, Corel  -  1:60 HMS President Mantra, Sergal

Awaiting construction:

1:89 Hermione La Fayette AL  -  1:48 Perserverance, Modelers shipyard

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Does New Port Richey need more waterfront land? You bet, officials say

• Barbara Behrendt Times staff

New Port Richey city council members have approved the $1.1 million purchase of land fronting the Cotee River that has been a priority acquisition of city leaders for several years now.

The property, known as the Montemayor parcel, is sandwiched between a boat ramp park to the south and the “Potter Property” to the north bought by the city several years ago.

All told with the purchase of the new land, which is set to close in October after the new fiscal year begins, the city will own 2.73 acres along the river with 522 feet of frontage.

“It’s really an impressive piece of property on the river,” said Greg Oravec, city economic development director.

While the members of the New Port Richey City Council, sitting as the community redevelopment agency board, approved the purchase, there is not yet a specific plan for the adjacent properties. That will come later as city officials continue to discuss what they want to do along the water to enhance other work that has been underway throughout the community.

Getting community input is part of that process. As Oravec explained, some residents are concerned about the fate of the boat ramp. He said the city can keep it, but that the larger property could get reconfigured to create a more functional riverwalk, if that is what city leaders ultimately decide.

While the city is paying more than the most recent $900,000 appraised price, Oravec said that the parcel is “the holdout which unlocks the full potential and value of this assembled site on the waterfront, in downtown, across from Sims Park on both Main Street and River Road.”

Oravec said that it was not unusual to pay a premium price for a holdout property.

“It seemed like a generational opportunity,” he said.

Council member’s didn’t flinch at the price, voting unanimously for the purchase. They were also briefed on the latest ideas from their consultant on New Port Richey’s future updates to their redevelopment plan. More detailed discussion on that plan is expected in a couple of weeks.

That ambitious plan includes work scattered all around the city from Railroad Square to the old community hospital site. One site on everyone’s mind, including some of those in the audience Tuesday night, is the historic Gulf High School, also known as the Schwettman facility.

The city has hoped to buy it from the Pasco County School District but there was reluctance to sell when school officials learned that one of the options was to turn the building and property over to a private developer. Citizens who filled city council chambers also didn’t want to see that outcome, urging the city to turn the property into a cultural center , which could be used by numerous groups.

Manns told the City Council on Tuesday that conversations with the school district continue. One other related plan had been for the city to potentially purchase another parcel on the same corner at 5462 Grand Boulevard along with a parking lot adjacent to the school’s extra parking lot.

While the council previously gave Manns permission to bid $575,000 for that parcel, the planned auction didn’t take place this week because the owner decided to pay off code enforcement fines himself and fix up the property on his own.

Barbara Behrendt is a reporter covering Pasco County. She can be reached at [email protected].

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