how to right a capsized laser sailboat

International Laser Class Association

One Boat, One Sailor, One Design.

Capsizing and Recovery: Learn Your Limits

via SportVid

It happens to all of us and it is not necessarily a bad thing.

Most Olympic sailors agree, “if you have never capsized in your life you don’t know what your limits are!” Obviously some boats are not made for capsizing, but most dinghies can be easily capsized without any damage. And even though you might not be interested in races and only sail for fun, it is still very useful to know the limits of your boat. This will increase the joy and safety of being on the water.

As the majority of our followers are sailing in Lasers or Optimists we will continue to focus on the one-person dinghy. For the one-person dinghy it is normally no problem to capsize. The most important thing is the reaction of the sailor. If you don’t panic and know what to do, you can easily bring the boat upright and keep on sailing.

Two options

In most situations your boat will capsize to leeward. If you’re sailing upwind and get hit by a strong gust, the boat can easily heel over or even capsize to leeward. The same goes for reaching. Especially if the kicker is too tight (laser sailing), your boom can easily hit the water and make the boat capsize.

To bring the boat upright again you need to use the centerboard. Make sure the centerboard is completely down. Then place your feet against the side of the boat and your arms around the centerboard. Keep this position until the boat slowly starts to come upright again. If necessary, you can climb on the centerboard to get the boat upright. Make sure you do not stand on the rear side of the centerboard. This part is very vulnerable and can easily be damaged.

When sailing downwind it is possible to capsize your boat to windward. The first time this happens can be a bit scary. It is usually unexpected and you almost always end up, head first, in the water. Remember, when you fall out of the boat, always hang on to your sheet! If you let go, the sail will remain full and you will end up swimming after your boat…

The steps to bring the boat upright again are the same:

Advanced tip

Sometimes, when you’re fast enough, you can manage to climb onto the centerboard without getting wet! This of course saves a lot of time and energy, not having to swim and pull yourself up onto the centerboard. Pulling the boat upright again is a bit harder though. Most likely the boat is still heading downwind. And because the sheet was eased during the crash, the boom is out, and the sail full. If you pull the boat upright like that, you’ll end up sailing downwind right away, with a full sail and you sitting on the wrong side. Another crash guaranteed…

Before you start pulling the boat upright, grab the sheet on the back of the boat and pull it in so that the boom falls into the water. This stops the boat sailing downwind. You can now pull the boat upright, but watch out… most likely your boat has “gybed” during the capsize. So the top of the mast is heading towards the wind and when you pull the boat upright, you’re still on the wrong side. So when pulling the boat upright, try to feel when the mast is coming out of the water and the wind is pushing the mast up. At that point step into the boat, duck under the boom(!) and jump to the other side to prevent the boat from capsizing again.

SportVid is founded by Roelof Bouwmeester and Sietse-Jan Sietzema. Both have many years of experience as sailors at the highest level, coaching talented youth sailors and Olympic athletes, such as Roelof’s sister, Marit Bouwmeester, 2016 Olympic gold medalist in Rio!

For more information:  http://www.sportvid.nl/

Laser Sailing Tips: Preventing Capsizing & Deathrolling

The death roll is the most common way to find yourself swimming. Moments after slamming into the water, the boat proceeds to turtle, leaving a helpless, swimming sailor to scramble to recovery gasping for air through the cold water and frustrating slurs as the fleet passes him/her by helplessly.  I don’t know who first started calling it a death roll, but I have a good idea of preventing capsizing & deathrolling. In a simple explanation, the death roll is when the Laser capsizes to windward when sailing downwind.

The only way to save yourself from capsize is using a combination of body weight and sheeting to achieve proper balance; on their own you are likely to flail.

The best thing I can do to help you keep the boat upright is first told you WHY your boat wants to roll on top of you.  The key to staying upright and making the boat go fast is a balance.

• The Laser is most balanced when sailed with opposing pressures of your body hiking off the side and a properly trimmed sail. hint: the greatest opposing pressures on the boat are achieved with more leverage (moving your body weight further from the sails to the back of the boat) If the boat is sailed closer to the lee the opposing pressures are reversed and the pressure for your body is required on the leeward side of the boat. An improperly trimmed sail will force you to make uncharacteristic movements that affect the balance and speed of the boat. Most common is when a boat is bearing away with the sail eased too much.
• I have a rule of thumb : Imagine a straight line between your leach and mast at it’s most open* position *(normally 3/4 of the way up to your sail) then dedicate to keeping that line perpendicular to the wind’s direction as you bear away all the way to a downwind course.  You’ll notice that once you reach a dead run your boom is not all the way out. Nearly everyone marks their mainsheet so that your boom stops at 90 degrees.  When sailing in a breeze downwind, this setting is extremely dangerous and is definitely the leading cause of most death rolls.  If the point on your leech gets in front of the point on your mast, you will initiate a death roll.

Learn this in our downwind clinics

Now take this into account when changing directions in the boat. When you head up to a broad reach, you must bring in your leech using your mainsheet and move your body weight to windward and aft. When bearing away to the lee – let your sail out as your bear away, but never too much, and lean your body over your feet, pressing on the leeward side.

The only way to save yourself for preventing capsizing & deathrolling is by using a combination of bodyweight and sheeting to achieve proper balance; on their own, you are likely to fail.

Related posts:

• Laser Sailing Tips: Launching in Onshore Wind
• Laser Sailing Tips: Prevent Mainsheet Tangles
• Laser Sailing Tips: Reading the Wind on the Water
• Laser Sailing Tips: Rudder vs. Sheet in Heavy Air Downwind
• preventing capsizing & deathrolling

Vaughn Harrison

When Vaughn isn't coaching sailors at our week long, all-inclusive Laser clinics in Mexico, he continues his work with countless Olympians, youth and masters sailors. He coached at the 2016 Rio Olympic Games and founded ISA in 2008.

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Better Sailing

How to Right a Capsized Sailboat

Capsize is the term used when a Sailboat is tilted at a 90º angle or turned over in the water. It has something to do with the movement of the crew weight or excess weight concentrated on the wrong side of the boat. It can also be due to too much power in the Sail.

In this section, learn how to avoid capsizing or deal with a small capsized sailing Dinghy :

How to Avoid Capsizing

• Familiarize yourself. Keep in mind that Capsizing is very common when sailing a small boat. This fact can make you prepared. Know the different situations where Capsizing becomes inevitable. Getting familiar with the causes can help you in avoiding them as you go afloat. It is wise to know the things you need to do if the boat capsizes. In protected waters with good conditions, practice dealing with a capsized boat. Get familiar with the steps to do to make the boat upright again. Make sure that you wear a Life Jacket. It will be better if you have someone on another boat to give assistance when necessary.
• Know your limitations. Sail within the limits of your skills and ability to respond to situations. Knowing how to make the boat upright when sailing a Dinghy or small boat is very crucial. If you do not know how to deal with a capsized boat, sail on a more stable one. Small Keelboats and other types of Dinghies are more stable and less likely to capsize. For obvious reasons, do not go afloat if the conditions are not favorable for Dinghy Sailing.
• Know how to reef a Dinghy. A Dinghy becomes easier to handle in strong Winds if it is reefed. Reefing, or reducing the Sail Area, is an important skill to learn. Knowing how to properly adjust the Sail area of a Dinghy while on the water can help you in keeping it upright.
• When Sailing Downwind Place crew weight astern and keep the boom down.
• When Sailing Upwind Place crew weight to windward. Slightly raise the Centerboard or Daggerboard to decrease the Heeling effect. Take control of the speed of the boat. It is more likely to capsize if it heels and slows down.

Knowing the causes of Capsizing will help you in avoiding it. In the event that your boat capsizes, do not get embarrassed. Having a capsized boat is not something to be ashamed of. Many sailors have their own share of experiences in getting their Dinghy capsized. The important thing is that you learn from the experience.

Methods of Righting a Capsized Boat

Dealing with a Capsized boat generally depends on the size of the Sailboat and on what circumstances you are sailing in. Wind and wave conditions at that particular time should be taken into consideration.

Here are some Techniques in Righting a Capsized Boat:

• Release the mainsheet and tiller and climb towards the opposite side.
• Climb over the top gunwale (top edge of the side of the Hull). Step over the sidedeck to reach the Daggerboard.
• Stand on the part of the Daggerboard nearest to the Hull and hold the gunwale.
• Pull the boat upright. Climb back to the boat as soon as it is upright again.
• Scoop Method The heavier person rights the boat by standing on the part of the Centerboard nearest to the Hull to pull the boat upright. The other person is scooped aboard. His weight will prevent the boat from another Capsizing once it is upright. In this method, release the mainsheet and jib sheets in order for the Mainsail to wave loosely when the boat is upright again.
• Walkover Method As the boat capsizes, you and your crew member should climb over the opposite side of the boat to reach the Centerboard. Climb back into the boat as soon as it is righted.
• Traditional Method Turn the boat in such a way that the Mast is downwind or the bow is pointed into the Wind. The first person should stand on the Centerboard, while the second crew member keeps the boat into the Wind. From the Stern, the first person boards the boat and helps the other crew member onboard.
• Righting an Inverted Boat The buoyancy distributed on the bottom and sides of the Hull makes a lot of Dinghies more at risk to turtle (turn completely upside down). In this situation, the Centerboard will likely to slip back into its case. When this happens, stand on the opposite gunwale and pull on a jib sheet or fixed righting line and lean out. Bring the boat to its horizontal or capsized position. Do the suitable Righting Technique to make the boat upright.

In recovering a Capsized boat, ensure that you and your crew (if you are sailing with another person) are safe at all times. Wear a Life Jacket afloat and remember to stay with or near the boat when it capsizes.

How to Right a Capsized Sailboat – Conclusion

Do not be embarrassed if your boat capsizes. In general, getting wet because your boat capsized is both a learning and fun experience. This is actually a good way to teach you several important skills in boat handling and techniques on how to deal with different situations.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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How Does Sailing Work? The Physics of Sailing

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How to Rig a Laser Sailboat

Last Updated: February 1, 2024

wikiHow is a “wiki,” similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. To create this article, 25 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. This article has been viewed 144,867 times. Learn more...

This is a step by step instruction on how to rig the original laser.

• The sail should now be flapping in the wind.

• If you have cleated the outhaul properly, the boom should now stay up on its own.

• Test it by pulling up on the rudder. Then put on the tiller by sliding it into the space on the top of the rudder. Once it's in, insert the pin to hold it there.
• Tie the dagger board with a long loop of elastic to the eye at the very front of the boat.
• Verify the elastic creates enough friction that the daggerboard will stay up or down (even when you invert the boat).

Community Q&A

• If this is a new boat, rig it entirely, on land, and test out all the parts. Pull on the mainsheet and such, in order to make sure nothing breaks. This way, you're not stuck on the water when a part of the boat fails. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• Flake the main sheet twice, once on hull then lastly inside cockpit so the bitter end is on the bottom..also a weather cane clipped on mast directly across from boom is helpful as well as tell-tales (and a whistle in your life vest and a helmet on your head). Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• When rigging the boat, make sure it is pointed into the wind Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0

Things You'll Need

• The boat itself (the hull)
• the dagger board and a piece of elastic
• the rudder and tiller
• your mainsheet
• both mast pieces
• one hull plug

You Might Also Like

• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKlIYWfhx10
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3HsMXwGUNs
• ↑ https://lasersailingtips.com/rigging-and-launching/
• ↑ http://marinaaquaticcenter.org/sailing/PDFs/Laser%20Rigging.pdf

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• 1.1.1 Check The Weather
• 1.1.2 Pack Your Gear
• 1.2.1 Detach the Trailer/Dolly
• 1.2.2 Unpack Gear and Check
• 1.2.3 Start Rigging Your Laser
• 1.2.4 Attach the Rudder & Tiller
• 1.2.5 Tidy Up
• 1.2.6 Launching Your Dinghy
• 2 Laser Sailing Dinghy De-rigging
• 3 More Information

Before you head out on the water laser sailing, you have to rig your dinghy, and if you have never done this before, it may seem a little overwhelming.

There is no real order in which you should rig your Laser sailboat. There are many combinations and ways of rigging a laser sailboat, and that shown below is simply one combination. Talk to a few people as you rig up, have a few goes yourself, and you’ll work out which way works best for you.

It’s always good to rig up a few times at home before you head out laser sailing if it’s practical and safe to do so. This is recommended so that you are confident that you know what goes where, and so that you can remember how you tie the knots .

Rigging a Laser Sailboat Steps

As mentioned, there are many different ways when rigging a Laser sailboat. Below is 1 suggestion of the rigging sequence…

Before You Leave Home

Check the weather.

Check the forecast before you leave home, and look outside to check for yourself. Safety should be your first priority, so if the conditions are not suitable for your level of experience, then you may want to reconsider heading out.

Pack Your Gear

If you have been out sailing before, it’s a good idea to pack all your gear away neatly so that it is easy to find, This means that when you pack all your gear to head out sailing the next time, you will know where everything is and you won’t forget anything.

There is nothing worse than getting down to the waterfront and then start to rig your laser sailboat only to find that you have forgotten something crucial (eg. your sail or life jacket), and have to head home before you have made it out onto the water.

It’s easy to get excited about heading out for a great day on the water. However, before you leave, take a minute to check that you have everything packed.

When You Arrive At The Waterfront

Detach the trailer/dolly.

If the trailer has to be detached from the car when parked, do this 1st. Then slide the dolly/trolley off the trailer, and position it relatively close to where you will launch, with the bow pointing into the wind.

Unpack Gear and Check

Unpack all your other laser sailing gear , including sail, ropes, foils, and spars , and lay it out to make sure it is all there.

Some people like to get dressed in their sailing gear before they start rigging their boat. If you get dressed at the start, then as soon as you have finished rigging, you can hit the water immediately. It also means that your sail won’t flog as much and cause any extra wear and tear and that your boat won’t accidentally tip over while on the dolly… which may happen especially if there is quite a strong breeze blowing.

Start Rigging Your Laser

Lay the boom on the deck. Feed the mainsheet rope through the blocks and eyelet on the boom, and through the block in the cockpit and the traveler .

It is advisable to tie a figure 8 knot in both ends of the mainsheet rope so that it doesn’t pull through when out on the water. At the boom end, this is so that the mainsheet can be pulled fully on so that it is in the block-to-block position. At the other end so that it doesn’t pull through the mainsheet block in the center of the cockpit.

Leave it loose and un-cleated. Feed the outhaul rope along the boom also.

Next to the hull, lay the sail out and install the battens. Connect the 2 mast sections, and feed it up through the mast sleeve in the sail, making sure the boom spigot is in line with the sail.

Also be careful to ensure that there is no mud or dirt on the bottom of the mast (this may over time cause abrasion between the bottom of the mast and the mast step, which may eventually compromise the integrity of the hull).

Ensuring there are no overhead obstructions (including power lines), from the bottom ½ of the mast, lift it up almost vertical (slightly leaning into the breeze may make it easier to handle), and slot it gently into the mast step hole. This may prove to be a little awkward, so obtain assistance if required

With the mast in place, slot the boom into the mast, and tie off the outhaul to the sail clew using a bowline, as shown in the knots section. Then attach the clew tie-down , making sure to tie it underneath the outhaul.

Attach the vang and cunningham . Tie a small loop in the end of the cunningham and feed the end of the vang pin through it. This will keep the eye of the cunningham down low near the deck, stopping it from riding up (see photo below). Then feed the cunningham through the 2 eyelets in the rope itself, then down to the eyelet on the deck, and run it back to the cleat in the cockpit. Tie a bowline in the end for easy gripping when on the water.

A knot ( bowline or figure 8 knot ) in the end of the cunningham is essential, as it is the only thing preventing the rig from becoming completely detached from the hull when capsized.

Attach the Rudder & Tiller

Attach the rudder , making sure that the lift stop clicks into place, and leave it in the fully up position. Insert the tiller and fasten the retaining pin, ensuring that the tiller is underneath the traveler.

Lay the centerboard on the deck. Put in the drain plug in the stern of the hull.

With the mainsheet eased right out, the boat should sit quite contently while you tidy up your gear, sail bag, etc. However, if there is a breeze, be careful that your dinghy will not tip over while it is on the dolly, or that the boom will swing around and hit someone.

If it is windy, this is probably not the best time to be going out for a sail if you are a beginner.

If you are not already dressed in your wetsuit, rash vest , life jacket, hat , sunscreen , glasses, shoes , etc, now is the time to do so. It’s a good idea to get someone to keep an eye on your boat and laser sailing gear if you have to go to the change rooms.

Launching Your Dinghy

With the mainsheet eased, carefully wheel the dolly around, down the ramp, and into the water. Keep the laser sailboat pointing into the wind as much as possible, however as long as the mainsheet is eased you should be able to manage ok as long as the wind is less than 90° to the hull. If possible, do not allow the wind to exceed 90° to the hull.

Wheel the laser dolly into the water until it is fully submerged, and float the boat off the dolly. If you are on your own you may have to run the boat up onto the beach so that you can pull the dolly back out of the water (be careful not to damage the drain plug on the bottom of the hull, or the hull itself). Otherwise, get someone to pull your dolly out for you.

With the boat pointing into the breeze, slide the centerboard into the fin case so that it is most of the way up, but low enough so that the boom clears the fin when it swings around. Run the elastic retaining strap up to the eyelet at the bow and back to the centerboard or mast (the tension in the elastic creates friction so that the centerboard will remain in place when capsized ).

If you are in deep enough water, you will be able to push the rudder down or pull the rope attached to the rudder head, to rotate the rudder to its fully down position. If this can’t be achieved, then you may have to wait until you push the boat into deeper water to do this. Once the rudder is down, tie off the line, and make sure that you do not hit it on the bottom. Take every precaution to protect your foils.

Now, you’re ready for your 1st sail .

Laser Sailing Dinghy De-rigging

When de-rigging, simply reverse the order of the above steps.

If possible thoroughly wash all your gear in fresh water and dry all your gear before storage.

Also take care when folding the laser sail to not create a crease in the sail window, as it will weaken and eventually crack.

More Information

As mentioned, there are many different ways of rigging a Laser sailboat. Some have to do with personal preference of rigging order. Some differences also have to do with different types of gear and sailing accessories that you may have (eg. turbo kit, wind instruments, etc). We can’t cover every possible scenario here, so just have a go and see what works for you.

Also, make sure to check out the video below which talks some more about rigging a Laser sailboat, and enjoy your laser sailing 🙂

Previous: Sailing Knots

Next: Your First Sail

In the Laser cunningham and vang photo there appears to be extra ropes attached for the outhaul could you please describe what was done to achieve that

Hi Kyle The outhaul is a separate rope that runs from the clew of the mainsail up and around the mast and through a cleet to lock it off at the desired tension. It is separate from the cunningham and vang. You can see more about it here . I hope that this helps to answer your question. If not, let me know. cheers

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Capsize Causes and Solutions – Part 1

As promised in our post on major mistakes, here’s our cut at a definitive list of capsize causes and solutions for small boat sailors. Capsizing is a fertile topic: there are dozens of ways to pitchpole , broach , death roll , or just plain tip over.  

We compiled this list from our scow sailing friends, internet sources, and my own admittedly vast experience with capsizing. I’m sure there are more, so please share your insights – login and comment below or email us at [email protected].

It made sense to group the list into categories. We chose five main causes and listed the physical errors and tips associated with each.

• Too much heeling force
• Not enough righting moment
• Off-wind balance issues
• Avoiding other boats

In this installment we’ll cover too much heeling force and not enough righting moment. In Part 2 , we address off-wind balance issues. We finish with Part 3 on waves and avoiding other  boats.

Too Much Heeling Force

To stay upright, you have to balance the wind’s heeling force with righting moment (i.e., hiking). You can only hike so hard, so you must reduce the heeling force when overpowered. This sounds simple, but in the heat of battle, sailors typically make either or both of the following mistakes. 

Failure to ease

As the saying goes, “Ease, Hike, and Trim” is a lot better than “Hike, Hike, and Swim.” The fastest (and driest) sailors ease the mainsheet aggressively in puffs. Here are the typical causes of failure to ease.

• Head in boat. Anticipating the puff and easing as it hits gives you more margin to capsize. As a bonus, it also makes you faster.
• Cleated. Simple solution – don’t cleat it. I tape my mainsheet cleat shut to prevent accidental cleating.
• Knotted. One tip is to tie the free end to an eye in the boat to prevent a real knot from forming. 
• Block twisted. If the mainsheet blocks aren’t parallel to the boom, the mainsheet can get bound up when you try to ease. This happened to one of our MC Scow  national champions. The Harken standard blocks have a lever or set screw to lock the blocks parallel to the boom.
• Tangled around foot. This is a tough one. Practice keeping your mainsheet off your feet as you trim in. Wear shoes that don’t catch the sheet.
• Too thick to run through blocks. Thick mainsheets are easy on the hands, but they don’t run through the ratchet blocks easily. Toughen up your hands and use a narrow mainsheet. 
• Improper grip. Hold the mainsheet in your fist with the thumb side toward your chest. To ease rapidly, just release your grip.
• Too much purchase. If you have too much purchase on your mainsheet, you won’t be able to ease rapidly. Anything more than 5:1 on an MC Scow is probably too much.
• Boom not free to move to leeward. C Scow sailors know that boats with running backstays will capsize if the leeward backstay is cleated. Some C Scow sailors remove their backstays in light to medium air.

Unforgiving setup

You can’t always ease rapidly enough, so you should also avoid unforgiving situations, such as the following.

• Over-heeled. Sail the boat flat to maximize margin.
• Traveler on center. Having the traveler on center is unforgiving in breeze. Sail with your traveler down to reduce the side force of puffs. As a bonus, sailing with traveler down and the main sheeted hard is faster than traveler up and sails eased.  
• Be ready to dump the vang in the biggest gusts
• Ease your vang before tacking, in case you bear off too far after the tack
• Ease your vang before ducking another boat
• Over-sheeted for the point of sail. If you start sheeting before rounding the leeward mark, you’re a sitting duck for a puff when you’re broadside to the wind. Instead of sheeting in early, learn how to coordinate sheeting with your turn.
• While tacking or gybing. Don’t let go of the tiller extension when you tack or gybe. Learn how to switch hands. Otherwise, you may bear off too far, or collide with another boat.
• While standing or resting. If you need to let go of the extension, make sure it doesn’t get caught under the deck. If it does, the boat will be headed for trouble before you know it.  

Not Enough Righting Moment

You and your crew have direct control over righting moment. To keep the boat upright and moving fast, you need to manage it precisely and smoothly. Here are the capsize causes we found related to righting moment: 

• Inactive sitting position. Ever rolled to windward hard in a lull, or tipped over to leeward in a puff? Maybe you were sitting too passively. Sit so you can react: feet planted, quad muscles engaged, upper body ready to move in or out. There’s a nice clip in the Steve Cockerill video at  07:45 on this.  
• Out of position. Bad things can happen when the skipper or crew is out of position. It might be fun to collect a list of examples, but I ran out of time and didn’t want to embarrass myself. Think ahead before you get too far out of position.
• Too much weight in one place. A heavy skipper-crew combination sitting on the rail can be a problem, especially when sailing downwind. We’ll cover more about downwind dynamics in Part 2.
• Falling in the boat. Falling in the boat changes the righting moment instantly and causes lots of capsizes. Every sailor needs to work on balance and combatting clumsiness.  
• Loose shackles
• Worn straps
• Straps not elevated
• Cords keeping the straps elevated break
• Water in the boat. Water in the boat always goes where you don’t want it: to the low side if you heel up, forward if you plow into a wave, etc. Don’t tolerate water in your boat. Sail with your bailers open while racing and especially between races.

To be continued ….

Major Mistakes: Here are Twelve You Can Avoid

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Racing Rule Question on capsizing

• Thread starter LakeShark
• Start date Oct 5, 2023
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So, I had a random thought today and was wondering what the ruling would be for a windward mark rounding in the following scenarios. I race ILCA (Lasers) on Tuesdays and when we were out in some 15-18 mph winds with 28mph gusts so things got spirited! Scenario 1 Preparing to round the Windward mark: Boat A gets to the 3 boat line first and then starts to round. Boat B is slightly to leeward but astern. Boat A capsizes and boat B must bear away to avoid the mast. Although boat A was entitled to room can boat B protest because he could not maintain proper course? Scenario 2 Heading down wind with oncoming boats: Boat A has just rounded the windward mark and forgot the Vang so they could not bear away fast enough and then in a death roll capsized. Boat B is on starboard inside the 3 boat circle and has to give way to the capsized vessel on the run. Boat B makes the rounding but then again must jibe as Boat A is still flopping on its side trying to right the boat. Can Boat B protest? I suppose both questions are trying to determine how the RRS apply to overturned boats in the way. Our races are far more friendly so we would not protest a capsized vessel but it’s an interesting thought experiment as the season starts to wind down.  

Rule 22: CAPSIZED, ANCHORED OR AGROUND; RESCUING If possible, a boat shall avoid a boat that is capsized or has not regained control after capsizing, is anchored or aground, or is trying to help a person or vessel in danger. A boat is capsized when her masthead is in the water.  

No protest regarding a boat that has disabled itself. ColRegs may apply in that you may be required to render assistance. Not so frequently on Fun Beer can local races which often have powered rescue boats on the water to assist. On long distance open water races there is often a time allowance issued to boats stopped, rendering assistance to a mayday from a racer.  

Davidasailor26

Very interesting questions. The RRS Case Book doesn’t really have anything like that. My initial reaction is that Boat B might be able to protest in both cases, depending on the timing. The rules define Mark Room as “space to sail promptly in a seamanlike way to a position close to, and on the required side of, the mark”. If A, in the process of losing control into the capsize, takes more than that seamanlike amount of room and B needs to avoid them then I think they did commit a foul. Once A’s masthead is actually in the water they are protected by Rule 22: “If possible, a boat shall avoid a boat that is capsized or has not regained control after capsizing… A boat is capsized when her masthead is in the water.”  

jssailem said: ColRegs may apply in that you may be required to render assistance. Click to expand

Thanks @Davidasailor26 . It is always good to see the rules applied in a way that recognizes good seamanship.  

I have forgotten how many times I laid a Lido 14, Laser or the FD over while racing in my youth. If you're going to push the envelope you are going to get splashed. We never gave a thought about redress or if we would help. When sailors are in the water nearby boats help. Now as competition levels increased, I know there were fewer splash moments.  

@DArcy , @jssailem , @Davidasailor26 Thank you for the input. I did not know about Rule 22 and that makes since. It was from a strictly hypothetical scenario anyway and just something I was pondering while out racing in larger winds. Do any of you know how the RSS defines "In control" after a capsize? I know that it can sometimes take a min to sort the lines after a boat is righted and in a good gusty day I am sometimes well underway by the time I consider my self back "in control" of the boat. Case in point: Racing in 30+ winds I capsize a lot and in those survival conditions the boat can actually right itself, sail a distance and then roll again if the capsize occurs while bearing away down wind. I had a couple capsizes a few weeks back in those extreme conditions where by the time I hade the mainsheet back in hand and tiller under control the boat was already humming along down wind on a full plane as I was heading on the run.  

From a practical standpoint, the "in control" condition would be subjective and a decision by a committee would be based on the observed facts presented. I might be "in control" when I have the tiller between my legs, the crew has a bailing bucket and we are trying to sort out the lines while the boat is being blown about. Are we racing... Yes likely attempting the task. Are we still unstable... Well of course, the boat is semi full of water and is more drifting than not. Going over again is a new event. If you present these facts to a committee of new sailors they could say "No, not in control." A jury of experienced racers may likely state "of course the boat is in control". That does not mean the boat has the capacity to get out of your way or give you room. It may be enough to say the boat is recovering and can not take room from you. As a fellow racer you may argue that you need the room and so protest. I have always felt it important to know your audience before you fly the Red flag.  

Rule 22 tells us a boat is capsized when the masthead is in the water. In theory, once you begin to right the boat and the mast leaves the water you are no longer capsized. The only separate definition of "capsized" is for windsurfing in appendix B: A board is capsized when she is not under control because her sail or the competitor is in the water. According to this definition once your sail or mast is out of the water you are back in control. That may not always be the case however since, as you mentioned, it sometimes takes a moment to sort out the lines and get the boat moving again. Something to consider is that if you capsize onto another boat to leeward of you, they may be able protest you. For instance if A has overlap inside B at a windward mark and B capsizes onto A, then B breaks rule 18.2. While B is capsizing, she likely does not have full control of the boat so "not in control" may not be a good defense in a protest hearing.  

BTW, you can get the Racing Rules of Sailing here: https://www.sailing.org/tools/documents/WSRRS20212024FinalwithChgsandCorrecns201113-[26798].pdf  

DArcy said: Rule 22 tells us a boat is capsized when the masthead is in the water. In theory, once you begin to right the boat and the mast leaves the water you are no longer capsized. Click to expand

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How to Right a Capsized Dinghy

Last Updated: June 9, 2022 References

wikiHow is a “wiki,” similar to Wikipedia, which means that many of our articles are co-written by multiple authors. To create this article, 28 people, some anonymous, worked to edit and improve it over time. This article has been viewed 43,152 times.

How to recover a dinghy after it's capsized. For clarity, mentions of the daggerboard here also apply for a centerboard where applicable. Once you realise that a capsize is imminent, it is very important that you uncleat the main sheet and jib sheet (where applicable).

Half inversion (boat on side)

Total inversion / "Turtle" (dinghy completely upside down)

This only occurs when the crew isn't able to pull on the daggerboard early enough after the capsize. The weight of the mast pulls the boat upside down. [2] X Research source

Dry capsizing

An advanced technique where you stay out the water after a capsize, and recover without getting wet. [4] X Research source A quick recovery used frequently in dinghy racing.

Scoop capsize

Another advanced technique where one person sits inside the boat while it's on its side and the others recover the boat. Once the boat is vertical again, there is already someone in it to help the others aboard. [5] X Research source

This can be dangerous if the boat turtles and you become trapped underneath. Don't try this unless you know exactly what you're doing. If there is ANY risk that the weight of those recovering the boat is not sufficient to guarantee that the boat will at least stay on its side, don't attempt this.

(The boat has to be on it's side to begin this procedure, and there must be at least two people in the boat - one of them must be capable of recovering the boat alone)

Strong Wind

• When recovering in strong winds, it is important that you only attempt to right the boat when the boat's daggerboard is on the Windward side , [6] X Research source or else the boat will easily angle too far and capsize on top of you.
• The most simple technique to recover a dinghy if it has capsized to windward, as long as you're not in shallow waters is to let the boat turn completely upside down then recover to the windward side (you can go either way once its completely upside down).

Community Q&A

Strong Wind - Mast to windward

There is however, an advanced way of recovering a half inverted dinghy in strong winds through use of a technique known as a "California roll" or "San Francisco roll". It is used when the mast is to windward of the hull, hence a probable immediate second capsize as soon as you right the boat to leeward. [7] X Research source This should only be used when the mast is to windward of the hull.

• Gradually begin to right the boat - cling onto the underside of the centerboard BEFORE the boat comes over by using leverage to your advantage - pulling yourself up nearer to the hull will stop the boat from coming over so quickly. Have your head nearer to the hull than your legs.
• Once upon the daggerboard, cling on TIGHTLY and gradually move your body weight back until the boat begins to right itself due to the strong wind forcing the sail over.
• Take a deep breath and hold on - do not let go of the daggerboard. The boat will flip through a full 180 degrees. You will now be on top of the daggerboard and can right the boat using standard procedures.

Note that this method is very advanced, and as a beginner, you shouldn't attempt it.

• If your boat is on its side and is about to turtle, jump on top of the sail and crawl away from the hull quickly. Generally however, the way to clear the boat is to move around to the stern (back). Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• When standing on the daggerboard - You obviously don't want to recover too early (before any crew is ready), so control the angle of the boat using the leverage the daggerboard allows you. Moving closer to the underside makes the boat turn completely upside down (not instant). Moving away on the daggerboard will recover it to its correct angle gradually. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• If you're caught under the sail, you can usually push upwards above your head and you will create an airspace. Be aware though that the mast will want to come down and will try to force you under. However, in high performance boats, the sails can be made of plastics which will not allow you to use this technique as no air can be sucked through the sail. Thanks Helpful 0 Not Helpful 0
• As you go over, make sure you are not tangled on any ropes. You do not want to be caught under your boat. Thanks Helpful 6 Not Helpful 2
• Wear your life jacket/PFD at all times Thanks Helpful 4 Not Helpful 2
• Stay clear of the area between the hull and the boom, you could be forced under the boat. Thanks Helpful 1 Not Helpful 8

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• ↑ https://scholarworks.sjsu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1002&context=kins_pub
• ↑ http://www.working-the-sails.com/capsizing_and_man_overboard.html
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zOBQjUEd_4s&t=1m40s
• ↑ https://www.cal-sailing.org/blogfrontpage/recent-blog-posts/entry/dry-capsize-on-a-quest
• ↑ https://www.discoverboating.com/resources/sailing-capsize-recovery-scoop-and-single-handed-methods
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qP0bPCnv7QU

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