model yacht sails

• About EH? Sails

Star 45 Class

Soling 1m class, canterbury j class, 10 rater class, 36/600 class, columbia 42 class, infinity 54 class, santa barbara class, wheeler class, vintage classes, we offer both sails and building in any class you are interested. there are too many to list them all. please visit the amya site by clicking on this link., click on the images below to enlarge view., ec12 cpm505, j class polymax.

Sail Prices All sails are designed and built to meet AMYA class specifications. Depending on class or make of model, sails are equipped with:

• Draft stripes $5
• Jib luff wire (where specified)
• Main luff slugs, tie points or jackwire
• Class insignia
• Sail numbers (main only)
• Country Designation on Main $10
• Jib numbers $10 (2 digits), add $5 per number if want 3 or 4 digit
• Colored corner patches in either Star or Oval shapes (black, white, kevlar, red, green or blue) Other colors available upon request.

Note: Sail numbers, draft stripes and class insignia - Either Insignia fabric or inked on style.

Materials available

• CPM505 - Mylar/scrim laminate
• PX75 Mylar film both sides with reinforcing threads
• 1.4 Mil Mylar
• 2.0 Mil Mylar
• 3.0 Mil Mylar
• 2.5 Polykote - PU Coated Woven Polyester Fabric (Midrange > J-Class)
• 2.1 Polymax - PU Coated Woven Polyester Fabric (Light to Midrange J-Class)
• Icarex - lightweight Polyester colored fabric.
• Other weights and materials available upon request

Sail Prices Note: Prices on the most common boats for which we have made sails. If you have other fabric suggestions you want us to consider, depending on availability, we can supply prices based on fabric cost.

• "A", "B" or "C" Suit of CPM505, PX75, or 2 mil Mylar fabric $180
• Main only 505, PX75, Mylar $120
• Jib only 505, PX75, Mylar $90
• Suit 2.1 Polymax $395
• Suit 2.5 Polykote $485
• Suit ODLO4 black Mylar $530
• Main only 2.1 Polymax $227, 2.5 Polykote $285
• Jib only 2.1 Polymax $145, 2.5 Polykote $190
• Suit Mylar dependent on choice of film discussed $???
• "B" Main for heavier winds 2.5 Polykote $285
• Note: Polymax vs Polykote - Since Polymax is not as firm as Polykote, it will respond and show wind changes along the luff line sooner than Polykote. We recommend Polykote for winds above 8 to 10 knots. Polymax can be used up to 12 to 15 knots if you want to keep that traditional look.
• CPM505 Suit $170
• PX75 "B" suit $175
• 2mil, 3mil or 1.4mil suit $140
• "B" suit PX75 $140
• "C" suit 3mil with reinforced seams $140
• Note: Rule change 6.1 - 2020, no thickness is required. Any woven polyester fabric $120
• Columbia 42 (C42) (A or B suit) Per class rules Suit $120. If only "B" main $65  

© 2024 EHSails, All Rights Reserve

3 Waterside Lane, Essex, CT 06426 860-304-7007

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Catsails are specialist manufacturers of sails and accessories for performance radio controlled model yachts.

Proprietor Nigel Brown has been sailmaking since 1980 and has worked in some of the top sail lofts across the World including building sails for 4 America’s Cup programmes.

Years of sailmaking experience at the highest level combined with the best materials, high standards of workmanship and attention to detail have resulted in truly top quality products that are well proven on racecourses around the world. All mainsails and jibs are shaped using carefully milled moulds which ensures accurate repetition and consistency of shapes from one sail to the next.

Nigel has been building sails for the International One Metre since 2005 with sail shapes and construction techniques being continually refined ever since. IOM sails are well proven on the race circuits having won races and regattas in Spain, Italy and Malta as well as in the UK.

In 2012 the range was extended to include sails for the popular Micro Magic class that instantly received great acclaim.

When the DragonForce 65 was launched in 2013 and the DragonFlite 95 in 2016 Catsails soon became one of the leading suppliers of after market sails for these popular boats and they are now shipped all around the world and have powered boats to national titles in a number of different countries.

Catsails additionally make high performance sails for the RG65 class to fit both swing and conventional rigs.

Catsails also make custom accessories that are designed to protect boats, rigs and foils whilst the boats are out of the water.

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• Bluenose Canadian Schooner

Making Sails for Model Ships

December 3, 2017

On my Model Shipways Bluenose build , I debated whether or not to make the sails.  Many (most?) ship models do not include full sails.  The Model Shipways kit was designed with sails, and includes the sail cloth as part of the kit.  The inclusion of sails was actually one of the factors that led me to select this kit for my second build.

With the booms and gaffs rigged and installed, I would basically be finished with the build if I omit the sails.  The remaining rigging is all attached to sails, so I’d leave it off if I didn’t include sails.  However, the sails really do add something to the model, especially for a schooner like this.

So, I decided to make sails.  I’ve never made sails before, so this will be a learning experience.  Here’s how I ended up doing it…

Choosing How Sails are Displayed

An important decision to make before you start is how you’ll be displaying sails.  There are three different ways you can go:

• For Display

(I made those last two names up).

Furled sails are sails that are lowered.  Many modelers choose to do furled sails on their ships.  The advantage is that the sails don’t cover everything up and make a model look like a bunch of cloth.  When doing furled sails, you typically don’t make the full sail, instead making smaller version.  The sail is put in place, but is bunched up and tied to the appropriate boom or gaff.

Realistic sails try to show the sails rigged and set as they would be while the ship is actually at sea.  Ships adjusted their sails depending on the situation.  In most cases, some sails would be raised while others would be lowered.  Some sails might be set off to one side.  Realistic sails would try to show the ship in some kind of ‘real’ sailing state.

Making sails simply ‘for display’ is what I’m doing.  I’m making all the sails, and installing them all in their raised state.  I’m not going to set any sails off to the sides – everything is just going to be installed straight and even.  You’d probably never see a ship at sea actually set like this, but I think it works well for a model.

When to Make Sails

From what I can tell, the general practice is to make the sails  before rigging and installing the booms and gaffs.  Several of the sails need to be laced onto the booms and gaffs, and that is nearly impossible to do directly on the ship.

The standard process seems to be:

• Build the booms and gaffs.
• Make the sails based on the plans.
• Attach sails to the booms and gaffs as appropriate.
• Install and rig the booms and gaffs.
• Add the additional rigging for each sail.

I’m not confident that all my booms and gaffs are 100% accurately sized, and I suspect that the dimensions of my sails might need to be adjusted to fit my particular ship.  So, I intentionally put off making sails until I had installed all the booms and gaffs.

Once I had everything installed on the ship, I could make templates for the sails that take into account both the plans and the size/shape of my actual build.

Of course, this means that I had a bunch of rigging for the booms and gaffs that would need to be un-done so the booms and gaffs could be removed.  That was fine with me, because I had avoided the use of glue when securing the rigging.  Everything was either tied off (easy to un-tie), or attached with a hook or shackle (easy to remove).

So, my process is:

• Build the booms and gaffs .
• Install and rig the booms and gaffs .
• Make the sails based on the actual layout of my ship.
• De-rig the booms and gaffs, and remove them from the ship.
• Re-install the booms and gaffs, and their rigging.

For me, this approach (while more work) has several advantages:

• Initially, I’m able to focus on getting the booms and gaffs properly installed and rigged, without the sails getting in the way.
• I can start with sail templates based on the plans, and adjust as necessary to fit the exact size/shape of my ship.
• Once sails are ready to install, I can quickly get them rigged without spending any time on the other rigging for the booms and gaffs, since those runs are already done and just need to be re-tied/attached.

Paper Templates

Making the actual sails starts with making paper templates.  Some of the sails were too big to use normal paper, so I picked up a roll of white craft paper.

For each sail, I took a piece of paper and laid it over the plans.  I marked the corners of the sail, then used a ruler to draw lines between the marks, giving me the outline of the sail.  Some sails have curves that I had to hand-draw.

Once the shape was laid out on the paper, I cut the paper to shape.

A paper template for the jib sail.

Next I positioned the paper template on the actual ship in the correct spot.  I took note of anything that didn’t fit just right, and adjusted the template as necessary.  Some sails needed to be made slightly smaller, while some had to be made slightly larger.

To help me visualize the sail, I also marked where the hems on the edges will go, along with any other key elements of the sail.  For the edge hems, I’ll be folding the fabric over and sewing it.  I’ll be shooting for a 1/16″ hem, so I used that size for the markings on the template.

The actual sails on the ship were made from strips of cloth, not one big piece.  To simulate this, I’ll just be sewing lines onto the cloth.  For some of the sails, I went ahead and marked these lines on the template since they need to be oriented correctly according to the plans.

The main and fore sails also have  reef bands , which run horizontally along the lower portion of the sail.  These were marked as well.

Preparing the Sail Cloth

Once I was satisfied with the template, I got out the sail cloth.  Model Shipways includes sail cloth with the kit.  This cloth is a medium weight cotton cloth in an off-white color.  The kit includes enough to make all the sails, assuming you get everything right on the first try.  I knew that wasn’t going to work, so I ordered two more packages of sail cloth from them.  It was relatively inexpensive – about $7 for each package of cloth.

Sails on a ship were rarely bright white.  I’ve seen that many modelers will dye their sail cloth to get a desired shade.  There are many tricks for this, like dipping the material in coffee.  I felt that the off-white color of the Model Shipways cloth was fine, so I didn’t dye my cloth.

If you’re wanting to use other sail cloth, look for something lightweight.  Almost all fabric is going to be too thick and out of scale, so just do the best you can.  I actually used some fabric from a local hobby store for a few ‘test runs’, and learned a few things.  Look for fabric with a tight knit, so the fabric doesn’t start to come apart as you cut it.  Also look for something without too much stretch, as stretchy fabric can distort the shape of the sails as you sew them.

Ideally, you want to wash, dry, and iron the sail cloth before you start.  Most fabric will shrink a little during this process, so you want this out of the way before you start cutting things to size.  Doing this will also release any wrinkles in the fabric.  (I was too excited to get started, and didn’t do this.)

Once you’ve got your fabric ready and your template sized, you’re ready to cut some fabric.

I used a fabric marker to do all the markings on the fabric.  I picked this up at a local hobby store in the sewing section for a couple dollars.  This marker uses special ink that disappears as it evaporates.  This means I can draw all over the fabric, and within a few hours the ink is gone.  I found this to give much better results than using a pencil and trying to erase markings.

The paper template is used to mark up the fabric being used for the sail.

A note on marking fabric…since I’m going to be folding over the edges of the sail to create hems, one side of the sail is going to look better than the other.  Often, you pick a ‘display side’ of the ship, and put ugly stuff (like the worse sail side) so it isn’t visible from the display side.  I found that with the way I was marking, folding, and sewing the cloth, I wanted the markings on the display side.  Making sure I marked the display side ensured that I as I worked I ended up with all the ugly stuff on the back.

First the outline of the sail is marked on the fabric.  Be sure to leave extra space on all sides outside of the sail.

A second outline is made 1/16″  outside of the first outline.  This is the hem that I want to end up with on the finished sail.

A third outline is made 1/2″  outside of the second outline.  This one doesn’t have to be perfect…this is just a guide for cutting the fabric.

You can also mark the reef lines and strips at this point if desired.  I typically didn’t mark the strips, since I was able to position those accurately using my sewing machine.

The fabric is trimmed, leaving excess material around the edges.

Once everything is marked, I cut the fabric along the outer-most outline.  I used a rotary cutter (like a pizza cutter), which gave much better results than scissors.

To make sails you have to do a lot of sewing.  I have no experience sewing.  Doing all this by hand with a needle and thread was not practical, so I bought a cheap little ‘hobby’ sewing machine.  That machine was junk, and broke within the first 20 minutes.  Since I’m hoping to keep this hobby going for a few decades, I decided to go ahead and invest in a real sewing machine.

At my local hobby store, the staff helped me select a good quality machine.  I got it for under $200.  The advantages of a real machine include:

• It won’t jam.
• Variable speeds.
• Selectable stitch length and width (critical for trying to get the stitching remotely close to ‘scale’).
• Many different computer-controlled stitch types, so you can do more than just a simple straight stitch.  This would end up making the reef bands much better.

It took me a few hours to get the hang of using the machine, but my skill level increased quickly.  While I certainly couldn’t sew a shirt or a pair of pants, by the second or third sail I was flying along like a pro.

Since you’ll be sewing, you’ll need thread.  There are three main considerations with the thread.

First is the color.  This is a matter of personal preference.  I’ve seen some models where the stitching on the sails was very high-contrast (dark brown thread on white cloth).  I’ve also seen some where the thread was the same color as the cloth.  I felt like the stitching shouldn’t stand out  too much , and I wanted to rely on the texture of the thread to define the lines rather than the color.  So, I went with a ‘natural’ color thread that ended up being really close to the color of the cloth.

The second consideration is the thread material.  A hobby store will likely have hundreds of different kinds of thread.  There are synthetic materials and natural materials.  I went with a cotton thread.  Why?  No really good reason except that all my rigging lines are cotton and the sail cloth is cotton, so it seemed like a good idea.

The final consideration is quantity.  I have no idea how to predict the amount of thread that will be needed (there may be some ‘trick’ to it that the pros know).  Initially I bought one spool of the thread.  That only made two sails.  When I went back to by more, they were out of that exact thread, so I had to order more online.  That caused a week delay in making sails.  Obviously you wan the thread to be the same on all the sails, so buy a lot of  the same thread up front.  Thread is cheap, and it is better to have some leftover than to run out.

Sewing the Edges

On to sewing.

The first step is to sew the hems on the edges.  I start with the longest edge first, then do the opposite edge, continuing on until all edges are sewn.  The cloth is folded over at the first outline (the line that defines the actual edge of the sail) and pinned into place.  The 1/16″ line that indicates the edge of the hem should be inside the sail.  Since the cloth was cut 1/2″ past that line (on that third outline), there is some extra material here that makes pinning easier.  I’ll cut that off later.

The edges are folded over to create a hem and pinned in place.

The hem is sewn on the edge.

The cloth then goes into the machine and gets stitched up.  I used the machine’s reverse feature to double-stitch the first couple stitches to secure the thread, then just ran a straight stitch down the edge, staying between the edge of the sail and the 1/16″ hem marking.  I used a small stitch length so things weren’t  too out of scale.

My machine lets me set the position of the needle, allowing me to get really close to the edge.

Once the stitch was complete, the extra thread was clipped off.  I used a pair of sharp scissors to carefully cut off the extra cloth along the 1/16″ hem line.

A completed edge hem, about 1/16″ wide.

This was repeated for each edge.

Two edges meet in a corner.

Adding ‘Strips’

To simulate the strips of material, some modelers simply draw lines on the cloth.  I decided to run a stitch for each strip instead.  It is more work, but it goes pretty fast

The ‘strips’ of sail sail cloth are simulated with stitches.  Each sail has a unique strip layout shown on the plans.

The width of the strips is indicated on the plans, as well as the layout of the strips.  It turned out that the width of the strips matched with space between the needle on my sewing machine and the edge of the ‘foot’.  So I didn’t need to mark the strips on the fabric – I just positioned the fabric under the foot and ran the material through the machine.

Reef Bands and Points

The large lower sails (main sail and fore sail) have  reef bands .  These are horizontal bands across the sails.  My sewing machine has a setting that creates a stitch that looks like a ladder (or railroad tracks?).  I adjusted the stitch length and width to get the desired size, then ran this stitch across the sail to create the reef bands.

I ran this right  over the strip lines.  This is easier than doing the reef bands first and trying to start/stop the strip lines at the bands, and you can’t really tell the difference.

Reef bands were sewn in using a different stitch pattern on my machine.

At each point where a strip line crosses the reef band, there is a short rope that goes through the sail.  These ropes were used to secure the sail when it was lowered and bundled up.  I cut a bunch of 1″ long pieces of 0.008″ tan rigging line and punched them through at the appropriate spots.  I used a small bit of fabric glue on each side to keep these ropes flat against the sail instead of sticking out.

Corner Attachment Points

The sails typically have rigging lines attached to the corners of the sails.  This means you need something in each corner to attach a rigging line to.  From my research, it looks like most sails had a rope that ran around the outside edge of the sail, and that rope would form an eye at the sail corners to create the attachment points.

I decided not to add this rope.  I wasn’t confident I could make it look good, and I thought the tan line would stand out too much.

So, I simply sewed brass rings (made from wire) into each corner.  This was done manually with a needle and thread.

Anchor points in the corners were made from brass wire and sewn in.

Finishing Up

Once everything is sewn and I’m happy with the results, there are a few final steps.

I do a final pass to trim anything that looks bad (edges of hems, loose threads, etc.).

After all my disappearing fabric markings have evaporated and disappeared, I iron the sail to flatten it out and remove any remaining wrinkles.

Finally, I use some fabric glue along any exposed fabric edges (like the hems) to keep them from fraying.  I also use a little fabric glue on the ends of stitches to ensure they don’t come loose.

Then the sail is ready to install!

A few completed sails on the ship.

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Tippecanoe Boats

Tippecanoe boats.

We produce the highest quality model sailboats, toy sailboats, and radio controlled model sailing boats in the world.

After 36 years of business, there are now over 70,000 Tippecanoe model sailboats sailing in more than 65 countries around the world!

Our Mission:

Our mission is to continue the wonderful tradition of model sailboats, especially wooden model sailboats, that really sail. Our boats have provided thousands of hours of happy outdoors experiences for countless adults and youngsters. We hear back from owners almost every day about how much they enjoy their boats and how pleased they are that we are doing what we do. In their small way, model sailing boats make the world a better place for all of us.

Our Origin:

Will Lesh is the founder, designer, and owner of Tippecanoe Boats. Will grew up with a classic Jacrim Seaworthy model sailing yacht which he sailed for many summers on Lake Tippecanoe along with his sister who also had a beautiful Keystone pond yacht.

“It has been in memory of those many happy hours that I have brought these beautiful toy sailboats back to life, and of course we have added a terrific collection of sensational RC model sailboats as well which make splendid projects for craftsmen as well as for first time builders and sailors.” – Will Lesh, Founder and Designer

“I have a 100 ton license. I built my own 24 foot sailboat and sailed it across the Atlantic. I own a 34 foot cruising sloop, a laser, two MC Scows, a Hobie 14, a windsurfer, a 420, my 24 foot trans-Atlantic sloop, a 12 foot laminated mahogany sailing dinghy, 5 kayaks and 2 canoes (also two 37 foot steel sailboats in process). I am passionate about sailing boats and human powered boats of all sizes. But I still love sailing the model boats, they are so fun and beautiful and bring the joy of sailing alive in a very special way. In fact, I think I sail and race our model boats more frequently than I use my full sized boats! You can count on every one of our Tippecanoe boats, free-sailing toy boats and sophisticated radio control boats, to sail exceptionally well. I guarantee it!” – Will Lesh, Founder and Designer

Will Lesh lives and breathes sailing. He always has, and he always will.

Will started, and continues to run, Tippecanoe Boats in order to spread his love for sailing to all:

“I sail, therefore I am!”

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Perfecting Your Model’s Sails: The Art of Rigging | Seacraftclassics

• September 10, 2023
• Boats and ships

Mastering the Art of Rigging: Enhancing the Authenticity of Your Model’s Sails

When it comes to creating a realistic and authentic model of a sailboat, one of the most crucial aspects is perfecting the rigging, particularly the sails. The art of rigging involves setting up the sails in a way that accurately represents the real-life counterpart, capturing the essence and beauty of sailing. In this article, we will delve into the secrets and techniques of sail rigging that will elevate the realism of your model to new heights.

Unveiling the Secrets of Rigging: Techniques to Perfect Your Model’s Sail Setup

Rigging a sailboat model requires attention to detail and a deep understanding of the principles of sailing. Here are some techniques that will help you achieve impeccable sail rigging:

1. Research and Reference

Before starting the rigging process, it is essential to conduct thorough research on the specific sailboat model you are replicating. Study photographs, blueprints, and even real-life sailboats to understand the intricacies of the rigging. Pay close attention to the arrangement of the sails, the types of rigging lines used, and the tension applied to each line.

2. Use High-Quality Materials

Investing in high-quality rigging materials is crucial for achieving a realistic look and ensuring the longevity of your model. Opt for materials such as fine thread or fishing line for the rigging lines, and choose appropriate fabrics for the sails, such as cotton or silk. These materials will provide the necessary strength and flexibility to accurately represent the tension and shape of the sails.

3. Rigging Techniques

There are several rigging techniques that can enhance the authenticity of your model’s sails:

• Running Rigging: Use thin thread or fishing line to create the running rigging, such as halyards, sheets, and control lines. Ensure that the lines are properly tensioned and secured to the appropriate points on the mast, boom, and deck.
• Standing Rigging: The standing rigging, including shrouds and stays, provides the necessary support for the mast. Use fine thread or wire to create these lines, ensuring they are accurately positioned and tensioned to maintain the correct shape of the mast.
• Sail Attachment: Attach the sails to the mast and boom using small eyelets or hooks. Pay attention to the proper alignment and tension of the sails to achieve a realistic appearance.

Elevate Your Model’s Realism: Tips and Tricks for Achieving Impeccable Sail Rigging

Here are some additional tips and tricks that will take your sail rigging to the next level:

1. Weathering and Aging

To add a touch of realism to your model, consider weathering and aging the sails. Use diluted acrylic paints or fabric dyes to create subtle discolorations and stains that mimic the effects of sun, saltwater, and time. Be sure to apply these effects sparingly and strategically to maintain a natural appearance.

2. Scale Accuracy

Pay close attention to the scale accuracy of your model’s rigging. Ensure that the size and proportions of the rigging lines and hardware are appropriate for the scale of your model. This attention to detail will greatly enhance the overall realism of your sailboat replica.

3. Practice and Patience

Perfecting the art of rigging takes practice and patience. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempts are not flawless. Take the time to learn from your mistakes, refine your techniques, and experiment with different approaches. With each model you build, your skills will improve, and your sail rigging will become more refined.

Mastering the art of rigging is essential for creating a realistic and authentic model of a sailboat. By conducting thorough research, using high-quality materials, and employing the right techniques, you can achieve impeccable sail rigging. Additionally, incorporating weathering and aging effects, ensuring scale accuracy, and practicing patience will elevate the realism of your model’s sails even further. So, set sail on your next model-building adventure and let your rigging skills shine!

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Start by Finding Your Make and Model Below

Every boat is unique. That means every sail needs to be unique as well. Our team has worked with thousands of different models, ensuring that the sails that we make fit right down to the inch. Browse our list of makes and models below , or you can search directly for your boat by typing in its make.

If you have trouble finding your boat, or you want to speak to one of our sailmaking experts, just get in touch or book a consultation . We are always happy to help in any way that we can!

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Custom Designed Every time

The Precision Sails design team are top-notch experts at their craft. Whether you’re looking to replace one sail or outfit your boat with a full set, our designers keep every design on file. This means you can expand your sail inventory over time while ensuring the sails work in tandem to dial in your boat’s performance.

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Gallery carousel. nylet - fine model yacht sails since 1932. 91 years..

A selection of photographs of yachts, some of which have been restored by a colleage, and of yachts rigged with Nylet sails, photos of which have been kindly sent in by satisfied customers. For more photos click on the yellow "photos" button below. Please see customers comments on the various pages. There are approx 35 pages/files on this website including useful "help & how to" pages to dip into.

View more photos of Nylet sails

Nylet contact details, phones, email, postal address & business hours., download our order form here., find me here (not yet active)  , our history. four centuries of yacht sailing (since 1730)..

My father, a Master sailmaker, took grandfather's interest in sailing, and his firm, F.Parsons, Sailmakers and Yacht Outfitters, in Ship Street (and after the War in Duke Street), Brighton, commenced making full size sails in 1932, and for many an ocean racer in the 50's from the 'new' works in Duke Street. The firm were also Contractors to the Admiralty and amongst other things we manufactured white canvas covers for Navy armament! We also started making cotton model sails for the Brighton & Hove Model Yacht Club before the war. My father made my first yacht in bread & butter construction with Egyptian cotton sails and I sailed her on the Hove boating lake in the 1950's at the age of eight, just as my father had done with his model yacht around 1920. Our first coloured Terylene sails were made in 1966 priced at under 40 shillings and I have now been making model sails for 56 years! In the early 1970's a Marblehead yacht was kitted at around £35; I don't believe there were any complete racing yacht kits manufactured at that time in the UK, we must have been the first. The GRP hulls were made by the late Tony Abel and commenced with the M-class "Moonraker". There were a series of articles in Model Boats during 1974 on building this yacht. The Moonracer and Challenger followed later. We had a very fruitful business relationship with Tony for 30 years and became firm friends. Tony operated out of his home near Salisbury. We also produced/kitted Tony's Ten Rater the Pacemaker; it was then followed by the Scimitar. A new Marblehead followed in 1981 which we designed and manufactured, named the "Royalist", this was followed by the "Pirate" and in the later 1980's the "Gypsy" was produced. With Tim Fuller we produced/kitted his Ten, the "Nooky Bear" which we also sold as a plan for the timber version. For a time we also moulded and kitted Roger Stollery's 36"R "Taxachun". In collaboration with Vic Smeed we designed a 36"R the "Djinn Fizz" (Vic�s choice of name), it was a simple hard chine design and was also available as a plan for building in plywood. I desgned various yachts over the years, making the plugs and moulding the GRP hulls before sail work had to take priority. I then put out hull moulding to a highly experienced moulder, Robin Whitmarsh (Kingston Mouldings) and Robin moulded hulls for us for over 30 years before retiring a few years ago. Our machine shop turned out many thousands of fittings for racing yachts from 1967 onwards. Today much is made by automated CNC machines. We also marketed our own sailwinches in the 70's, they were somewhat larger than those available today! Cotton sails gave way to coloured Terylene in 1966, but we are making cotton sails again (since the mid 80's) for vintage yachts such as the Stars, Alexanders and Bassett Lowke etc. Our old Singer sewing machine, and our later Berninas are all so much history now and we currently use modern machines giving absolute accuracy, which, coupled with the finest materials and a keen eye for detail make our sails known the world over for the very highest quality. Between 1966 and 1991 we operated from Fordingbridge, firstly from a small workshop in Park Road, then at larger premises at 118-122 Station Road and later from my large garage at our cottage. Many of my older customers remember us from those days. My father sadly passed away in 1981 having suffered with worsening health. Until 2002 Nylet operated from our Bournemouth shop but we now operate our modern eCommerce business in the ancient medieval City of Salisbury. Model yachting embraces many diverse types of yachts, from the classic pond yachts such as the series of "Star" yachts, vintage timber constructed pre-war racing vane yachts, models of fishing vessels, luggers and gaffers etc. Now there are modern racing yachts which are about as hi-tech as you can get. As ever (remembering the MAP plans service) there are plans for the scratch builder and GRP hulls are also available, many from Sarik. My name is Frank Parsons, my father Frank, a Master Sailmaker, commenced making full size and model sails in 1932, and this year I mark my 56th year of sailmaking. I am lucky enough to have enjoyed immensely every single minute of that time and meeting with many likewise minded enthusiasts for whom the art of sailing and building model yachts is totally absorbing. I hope you will enjoy this wonderful hobby (and sport) as much as I have, and still do.

Frank Parsons

Customer comments - Dear Frank, Just received my glorious suit! Magnificent! The tablings..... marvellous!!!..., the eyelets, the foot sleeves, the stitching lines, the overall shape, every detail, all very beautiful indeed! I can't tell you how delighted I am. You must understand, the wind has always held a magical place in my heart and the thin membrane with which we apply our feeble human attempts to have it do our way over an equally mysterious sea.....alchemy indeed. I hold this suit in my hands and it all comes alive again. You sir, are a Wizard of Dacron. Thank you for your brilliant work! Roger, U.S.A. Hello Frank, I finally finished the Victoria refurb, set up and sailed first time last Sunday, she sails brilliantly! Fantastic sails, thanks, the boat runs like a greyhound! Colin. Notts. The IOM sails are absolutely fabulous. Alan, Derby. The sails look great, lovely job and I cannot wait to sail the boat. Malcolm. Herts. Frank! The new sails are "ring-a-ding-dong dandies!" I am a happy customer. Thanks again. Rey. Canada. The Starlet sails are a perfect match, many thanks. Jim. Norfolk. Just to let you know that both parcels arrived yesterday. Lovely work too. Thank you very, very much. Arthur. Australia. . . . to let you know that the (IOM) sails you provided me with a few years ago proved to be so good that I have had to make virtually no adjustments since, regardless of wind strength or direction. Taunton. I tested the new suit of sails yesterday and was very impressed by the difference it made to both the appearance and the handling of the yacht. Thank you also for the very quick turnaround time on my order and the high standard of workmanship. I think that was excellent service. Colin. Christchurch. I just wanted to say a really big thank you for the lovely suit of (Dacron Heritage sewn) sails you have made for my vintage 4 foot model J Class sloop. I have put the sails on the spars and they look superb! They are beautifully made as I expected them to be, but in all fairness it is actually better than I had even hoped for. John. Preston. Just to let you know that my (Heritage sewn Dacron) sails arrived at 10.00 am this morning. Absolutely perfect Frank, the workmanship and quality is faultless and the accuracy to the originals is superb. All I have to do now is to continue with the restoration to the same high standard. Julian. Dorset. Hi Frank, sails arrived today as you predicted ... thank you again for another perfect job. Rod, York. I have received the Victoria sails in excellent condition, thank you very much for making them so quickly, a very happy customer. Mike, North Devon. Thanks for your message that the (One Metre) sails have been posted, they arrived 15 mins ago, they look excellent, a good job well done. Iain, Oxford. Once again my heartfelt thanks for your advice and the marvellous sails you have provided. Rob, Wiltshire. I had various recommendations of who to get sails from but the other day I saw a yacht with your sails and it just shone out, the shape looked beautiful, so I decided there and then to contact you. Gordon, Sussex. Thank you yet again sir, A gentleman. The diagrams and pics (relating to the One Metre rule) spot on "a picture tells a thousand words" so very helpful!!! I had some measurements, like mast height sail sizes, hull dimentions etc, already, but not sidestay securing point, but as you say that isn't set in stone. The H/king Phantom is much modified and developed from original first hobby boat item, to the point where Ian who wins nearly all the yacht racing (Nylet Thesis kit) and Geoff also a Nylet customer, came 2nd to Ian in championship last year. Thank you Frank, first class service, sails arived safely this morning. John, Staffordshire. Hi Frank, sails (Nottingham J class) arived safely this morning, very pleased, they are very well made and look beautiful. Merry Christmas. John (happy customer since 1973).