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Pond Yacht rigging

By JerseyCity Frankie May 3, 2015 in Masting, rigging and sails

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Jerseycity frankie.

Im sifting the internet looking for information about pre-radio control Pond yacht rigging. Working rigging for sailing scale models.

Before radio control, as I am sure all of you know, pond yachts reached a high degree of sophistication. Self tacking steering gear controlled by wind vanes, with a lot of complex brass hardware with elastic bands and adjustable sliders, were visible on deck and could be set by the user on shore to match the prevailing wind conditions and desired point of sail.

My problem is in finding authoritative information on these mechanisms. Nearly ALL of the images I find of historic Pond Yachts, those not in actual contemporary photos, are of models that have been restored and have had their steering gear simplified, presumably by antique dealers with little working sail understanding. In most of these cases its very obvious that brass fittings remaining on deck are not rigged in a way that would have an actual effect, they have merely been mocked up to look like they function and are often left unconnected to the sails.

Have any of you R.C. guys come across books or websites that deal with this aspect f the hobby? I hope there is a repository of this knowledge somewhere, it would be a shame to lose it.

• IgorSky , markjay , Omega1234 and 3 others

  Niagara   USS Constitution  

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Blue Jacket Ship Crafters, in their book department sells two books on pond models. Both books are by M. de Lesseps. They are Pond Models  and Pond Yachts How To Build And Sail Them.  These books may have the information you're looking for.

Yowch $57 on Amazon!  But I see only $21 at Blue Jacket. Thanks for the tip!

I wrote to the Central Park Yacht Club and they put me in touch with a gentleman with experience with the subject. I was touched by his generosity when he wrote back and sent along annotations on the photo I had sent him.

He explains that:

......... sheet-to-tiller rig:  there were *two* mainsheets, one used on  going to windward  and the other on the run. Both typically had hooks on the end so they could be switched.

Sailing upwind, the boat sailed on balance only, tiller centered by the elastic as shown in the picture. The beating sheet ran from the end of the boom and was hooked on the ring on the main horse. Running sheet hung loose. On the run, the running sheet would be hooked to the tiller as shown, and run out so the main boom was swung out to one side or the other. The beating sheet would hang loose. The principle is that if the boom were swung to starboard, the boat would tend to turn to port. The pressure of the wind would pull on the main sheet against the elastic and give opposite helm to the rudder , thus guiding the boat. The jib would have a single sheet, adjusted with a tensioning device,  let out for the run and pulled in for the beat.  

• Landlocked123 , IgorSky , mtaylor and 2 others
• 2 weeks later...

Found this on Google books and it is relevant:   https://books.google.com/books?id=_jYCAAAAQAAJ&pg=PA103&dq=Pond+Models+%C2%A0and+Pond+Yachts&hl=en&sa=X&ei=8NtZVbWuHq7IsQTHgYHADg&ved=0CC4Q6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=Pond%20Models%20%C2%A0and%20Pond%20Yachts&f=false

• 1 month later...

Try this web site from the UK: www.vmyg.uk. Its called the Vintage Model YachtGroup, its web site has a link to a

instruction book for various self steering mechanisms and how they work. 

Looked interesting.

Bridgman Bob

Thanks for the link to the website! I thought I had seen them all by now but this was a new one to me. Here are some shots of the model I am restoring, one of two. THis example was likely not actually sailed. It has a lead keel but there is no rudder head, the rudder moves but does not pierce the deck.

The second model, not pictured, has rudimentary self steering gear and I will put up some photos of that later as I finish work on her.

I finished the restoration work I was doing on these two Pond Yacht Models. I have a new appreciation for this type of model and plan on building one of my own now. Here are some before and after photos. ANd then just some details shots.

• mtaylor , Omega1234 and markjay
• 7 months later...

However, did you notice that shipping at Blue Jacket starts at $50.00?  

Huh?    http://www.bluejacketinc.com/ordering.htm

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                              Past Builds:   La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans  - ON HOLD            Tri ton Cross-Section    

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• Perfecting Your Model’s Sails: The Art of Rigging | Seacraftclassics
• Blog Seacraftclassics
• Boats and ships
• September 10, 2023

Mastering the Art of Rigging: Enhancing the Authenticity of Your Model’s Sails

When it comes to creating a realistic and authentic model of a sailboat, one of the most crucial aspects is perfecting the rigging, particularly the sails. The art of rigging involves setting up the sails in a way that accurately represents the real-life counterpart, capturing the essence and beauty of sailing. In this article, we will delve into the secrets and techniques of sail rigging that will elevate the realism of your model to new heights.

Unveiling the Secrets of Rigging: Techniques to Perfect Your Model’s Sail Setup

Rigging a sailboat model requires attention to detail and a deep understanding of the principles of sailing. Here are some techniques that will help you achieve impeccable sail rigging:

1. Research and Reference

Before starting the rigging process, it is essential to conduct thorough research on the specific sailboat model you are replicating. Study photographs, blueprints, and even real-life sailboats to understand the intricacies of the rigging. Pay close attention to the arrangement of the sails, the types of rigging lines used, and the tension applied to each line.

2. Use High-Quality Materials

Investing in high-quality rigging materials is crucial for achieving a realistic look and ensuring the longevity of your model. Opt for materials such as fine thread or fishing line for the rigging lines, and choose appropriate fabrics for the sails, such as cotton or silk. These materials will provide the necessary strength and flexibility to accurately represent the tension and shape of the sails.

3. Rigging Techniques

There are several rigging techniques that can enhance the authenticity of your model’s sails:

• Running Rigging: Use thin thread or fishing line to create the running rigging, such as halyards, sheets, and control lines. Ensure that the lines are properly tensioned and secured to the appropriate points on the mast, boom, and deck.
• Standing Rigging: The standing rigging, including shrouds and stays, provides the necessary support for the mast. Use fine thread or wire to create these lines, ensuring they are accurately positioned and tensioned to maintain the correct shape of the mast.
• Sail Attachment: Attach the sails to the mast and boom using small eyelets or hooks. Pay attention to the proper alignment and tension of the sails to achieve a realistic appearance.

Elevate Your Model’s Realism: Tips and Tricks for Achieving Impeccable Sail Rigging

Here are some additional tips and tricks that will take your sail rigging to the next level:

1. Weathering and Aging

To add a touch of realism to your model, consider weathering and aging the sails. Use diluted acrylic paints or fabric dyes to create subtle discolorations and stains that mimic the effects of sun, saltwater, and time. Be sure to apply these effects sparingly and strategically to maintain a natural appearance.

2. Scale Accuracy

Pay close attention to the scale accuracy of your model’s rigging. Ensure that the size and proportions of the rigging lines and hardware are appropriate for the scale of your model. This attention to detail will greatly enhance the overall realism of your sailboat replica.

3. Practice and Patience

Perfecting the art of rigging takes practice and patience. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempts are not flawless. Take the time to learn from your mistakes, refine your techniques, and experiment with different approaches. With each model you build, your skills will improve, and your sail rigging will become more refined.

Mastering the art of rigging is essential for creating a realistic and authentic model of a sailboat. By conducting thorough research, using high-quality materials, and employing the right techniques, you can achieve impeccable sail rigging. Additionally, incorporating weathering and aging effects, ensuring scale accuracy, and practicing patience will elevate the realism of your model’s sails even further. So, set sail on your next model-building adventure and let your rigging skills shine!

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The definitive guide to sailing yacht rigging

Related articles, superyacht directory.

Do you know your Bermudan rig from your DynaRig or wingsails? And which is best? BOAT explains it all...

Take a look at a modern racing yacht from above, beating to windward and heeled to the breeze, and you can see at a glance why Bermudan rigs have stood the test of time. With its fore and aft sails bladed into efficient aerodynamic shapes, a modern yacht can slice close to the wind and be driven hard. Such a sight would have been outlandish a century ago. Then, a typical trading barquentine could set 18 sails to catch light airs, but it needed a large crew to battle with canvas far out on the yards. In a modern miracle as incredible in its way as flight, today’s racing yachts can sail faster than the speed of the wind – in some cases several times faster.

A mainsail set on a single spar is an age-old concept but only in the 19th century was it adapted as the Bermudan or Marconi rig. A one-piece mainsail set on a mast without a gaff, hoisted with one halyard and controlled by one sheet, was simpler and more efficient. This revolution became the power train of pleasure yachting and racing.

But perhaps the time is coming for a re-evaluation of simpler rigs requiring fewer crew – alternatives with lower loads operated by automated systems. In an era of reduced carbon consumption, could more radical sailplans even herald a revival in sail power?

The evergreen Bermudan rig

The Bermudan rig is the all-rounder, able to perform well at all angles of sail. It is efficient upwind, while downwind the sail area can be significantly boosted with a big gennaker or spinnaker. For good reasons, it is the first choice for nearly every modern sailing yacht up to around 60 to 65 metres for cruising and regatta racing alike. At larger sizes, however, things start to become trickier, and the trade-offs get interesting.

Over the last decade, sail handling technology has steadily advanced to allow sloop rigs to grow larger and larger. “But with that comes a highly loaded rig, many tonnes of compression from tension in the rigging, and you have to build structure in the boat to accept that,” explains Paul MacDonald, founder and superyacht sales manager of Southern Spars.

“You have to have a lot of deck gear and captive winches below decks and the machinery for that. But over the years, boom furling systems and MPS [Multi Purpose Sails for downwind angles] stored on a drum, for example, have made sail handling safer.

Bill Tripp is the designer behind the 86-metre Aquijo , which broke new ground in 2015 as the world’s largest Bermudan ketch. Tripp prefers to call the rig a "sketch", a portmanteau word for a rig that is neither a sloop nor a ketch “because the main and mizzen are identical”. Even though the sailplan is divided over two masts, each spar is still a towering 90 metres above the water. Aquijo perfectly illustrates the issues involved with a Bermudan rig when scaled up.

“The sloop is great but I prefer the ‘sketch’ for sailing around the world under full control due to the desirability of a two-masted rig for reaching ability, which dominates passages, and the safety of controllable loads when sailing in all kinds of conditions miles from nowhere,” he says.

Upwind, Aquijo sets a jib, staysail, mainsail and mizzen, all in North Sails 3Di, totalling 3,821 square metres. A furling Code sail for reaching and downwind angles increases that to a vast 5,051 square metres.

While Aquijo has a crew retinue of 17, it can be controlled under sail by six or seven people. With custom winches to handle halyards and sheets, the sails can be hoisted astonishingly quickly for such a large rig. “It takes five minutes to put the main up, on average, and the main and mizzen can go up at the same time,” Tripp says. Aquijo has now sailed 100,000 nautical miles around the world and the owner is planning another circumnavigation through the Northwest Passage.

Tripp is not convinced of the wisdom of a much larger single-masted sloop rig. “If you are day sailing in the Med, a sloop would be awesome, but I am not sure if you had fewer sails you would be able to [reduce canvas] well enough. Also the mast is a windage problem when the keel is up and you are beam-to. If you are on anchor, that’s no problem but you’d have to be able to cope with being on the docks in 70 knots. The windage at 120 metres is not only more but the centre of effort is so much higher, and so the heeling loads all go up.”

However, British designer Malcolm McKeon , the name behind the high-performance, sloop-rigged carbon composite superyachts Missy and Ribelle , is pushing the sloop rig to new heights. His 85-metre design concept Apex, developed with Royal Huisman , would be the largest sloop-rigged yacht in the world. “The loads are enormous,” he admits, “but it is all scalable.”

“The big disadvantage is sail handling. The downwind sails are pretty complicated once you start hoisting and retrieving, even with drum and reel systems. It is not straightforward.” But, he adds, “I think we know the advantages of a sloop: if you want all-round performance you can’t beat it, even at the top end.”

Advantages of a clipper rig

The DynaRig has been around as a concept since the 1960s when German engineer Wilhelm Prölss devised these free-standing, rotating rigs as a fuel-saving solution for large commercial vessels. The idea was ahead of its time, so much so that its first realisation came nearly 40 years later when American owner Tom Perkins bought the residual technology and commissioned Dykstra Naval Architects to create a three-masted DynaRig for Maltese Falcon , his 88-metre Perini Navi.

The DynaRig is not as efficient upwind as the Bermudan rig, and is probably not the best solution for a yacht smaller than around 65 metres, suggests Jeroen de Vos of Dykstra. “We wouldn’t advise putting a DynaRig on a small yacht because there are other ways to manage sail handling. But on a larger yacht the DynaRig becomes an alternative because there is no rigging, no highly loaded sheets, low-tech [small] sails and no big winches.”

The beauty of the DynaRig is that its automatic systems can be handled by one or two people and, notes de Vos, “you don’t have to get out of your chair to go sailing. Maltese Falcon can sail on and off the anchor and can set 2,400 square metres of sail in six minutes. On other boats it takes six minutes to get the sail cover off.”

Damon Roberts of Magma Structures, which built the rigs for Maltese Falcon and the only other DynaRig yacht to date, the 106-metre Black Pearl , says: “You can do any manoeuvre easily; it’s like sailing a dinghy. There are no highly loaded sheets or ropes or flogging lines. You can luff up, bear away, tack and gybe at  any time and really enjoy sailing the boat without any apparent fuss.”

So with all these advantages, why has the DynaRig been chosen for only two sailing superyachts? For some designers, such as Malcolm McKeon, it is partly to do with compromises imposed by the large mast tubes and bearing diameters on the internal structure and layout, “particularly in the cockpit area,” he says. He also points out that the clipper ship look is not to every owner’s taste. “Sloops are more conventional looking,” he says.

Damon Roberts says there is still development work to be done. He has teamed up with Southern Spars and, with their additional resources, expects evolution with several new projects. “These include two at the moment that are twin-masted DynaRigs,” he says. “We did quite a lot of wind tunnel work early on as we felt that was really the sweet spot for it, and people will be stunned at how efficient these are.”

The future of the wingsail

Wingsails have been around for decades too, but with their adoption by the last two America’s Cups and the confluence with foiling technology, they have undergone rapid and revolutionary development.

To date, there is no proven solution for reefing a wing that would be suitable for offshore cruising or ocean passages. As the pronounced aerodynamic “nose” at the leading edge of a wing can develop force in strong winds, they could potentially make a large yacht uncontrollable in port as well.

“How do you get rid of sail and how does [a boat] handle when caught out in heavy wind conditions – which you will be? How do you keep the angle of attack all the way up the rig and how do you handle squalls?” Roberts asks. “A mechanism to reduce sail might be easy to sketch out but it is difficult to engineer.”

Jeroen de Vos says: “The wingsails are more developed towards performance and I wouldn’t say that they are as practical as soft sails or would ever make handling easier. But if somebody wants that, why not? Reefable soft sails, wings that are inflated, hoisted panels, possibly these are applicable. The development of this area is happening very rapidly.”

Paul MacDonald of Southern Spars agrees that the time is not here yet but thinks it will come. “In reality we are in the early days of wings. For the America’s Cup, they are the most efficient way of sailing by a long shot, but with them comes handling issues, which the industry hasn’t resolved yet. But I am sure they will be in 10 years’ time. Designers such as VPLP are starting to [work on concepts] and we are going to see something that is usable and efficient and suitable for ocean work eventually,” he says. “And whatever the solution is, you imagine that it will scale.”

Looking to the future

A drive for greener superyachts could present an opportunity for sail, but perhaps it needs to be less daunting.

“There is this intimidation of sheets and backstays, and sailing is a language you don’t learn in a year,” Tripp says. “But we have a project we are doing now with a yard with some new rig technology and some soft wings that we think is going to be viable.

“We can uncomplicate sailing more. If we can win people over from motorboats it will help, but we are only winning these battles one or two at a time. We need [more] projects like Sailing Yacht A , which are something really different, and do more things better with less energy. We as architects need to elicit change.”

McKeon also sees change coming. “People are more and more concerned about keeping their image green and sails are the way to do that,” he says. “Simpler sailing systems are needed. The current generation is used to Bermudan sloops. In years to come, the traditionalists will all be gone, and maybe new people will be more accepting of [different ideas]. I think in the future we will certainly have wings.”

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Barrel – Wood – Brown – 8diax10mm

Block – wood – yellow – 2 hole – 15/32inch (4mm).

Block – Wood – Fawn – 1 hole – 1/8″ (3mm)

Cleat – metal – brown – 15/32inch (12mm), belaying pin – wood – brown – 1/4″ (6mm).

Deadeye Strap – 1-1/32″ x 13/64″ (26mm x 5mm)

Port hole – brass – no glass – 13/64″ (5mm).

Eye Plate – Brass – 3/32″ x 9/32″ (2.5mm x 7mm)

Deadeye loop – 9/32″ (7mm), port hole – brass – no glass – 1/8inch (3mm), port hole – brass – no glass – 1/16inch (1.5mm), block – wood – fawn – 1 hole – 1/4″ (7mm), port hole – brass – no glass – 3/64″ (1.2mm), gunport frame with lid – 9/32″ x 9/32″ (7mm x 7mm).

Deadeye Heart – Brown – 15/64″ (6mm)

Stanchion – Brass – Straight – 25/64″ x 2 hole (10mm)

Eye screw – brass – 13/64″ x 23/64″ (5mm x 9mm), belaying pin – wood – yellow – 15/32″ (12mm).

Block – Wood – Fawn – 2 hole – 3/16″ (5mm)

Cannon Wheel – Wood – 5/32″ (4mm)

Deadeye – wood – brown – 23/64″ (9mm), deadeye – wood – brown – triangular – 9/32″ (7mm).

Stanchion – Brass – Straight – 19/32″ x 1 hole (15mm)

Chainplate – Modern – Brass – 63/64″ (25mm) – No Loop

Belaying pin – wood – brown – 45/64″ (18mm), belaying pin – wood – brown – 9/16″ (14mm).

Rigging Cord – Fawn – 0.50mm x 20m – Amati

Cleat – metal – brown – 5/8inch (16mm).

Gunport Frame No Lid – 25/64″ x 25/64″ (10x10mm)

Bitt Head Top – Wood – Round Head – 5mm sqr Base

Gunport frame no lid – 33/64″x33/64″ (13x13mm), deadeye strap – 1-9/64″ x 9/32″ (29mm x 7mm).

Rigging Cord – Fawn – 0.25mm x 20m – Amati

Block – wood – fawn – 2 hole – 5/32″ (4mm), block – wood – brown – 1 hole – 13/32″ (10mm).

Rigging Cord – Black – 0.5mm x 10m – Mantua

Stanchion – brass – straight – 25/64″ x 1 hole (10mm).

Stanchion – Wood – Yellow – 7/16″ (11mm)

Barrel – Wood – Yellow – 12dia x 14mm

Pulley Wheel – Brass – 3/32″ (2.5mm)

Stanchion – Wood – Brown – 35/64″ (14mm)

Belaying pin – wood – brown – 5/8″ (16mm), cannon wheel – wood – 13/64″ (5mm).

Block – Wood – Brown – 3 hole – 3/16″ (5mm)

Sheave – Wood – 3/32″ (2.5mm)

Rigging Cord – Black – 0.75mm x 20m – Amati

Block – Violin – Brown – 1 Hole – 9/32″ (7mm)

Cannon Kit – Metal – Brown – 19/32″ (15mm)

Rigging cord – black – 0.25mm x 10m – mantua, stanchion – wood – brown – 15/32 (12mm).

Eye Pins – Copper – 5/64″ x 15/32″ (2mm x 12mm) – P100

Stanchion – brass – straight – 63/64″ x 2 hole (25mm).

Eye Pins – Brass -9/64″ x 25/32″ (3.5mm x 20mm) – P10

Cannon Barrel – Brown – Plain – 45/64″ (18mm)

Truck – Wood – 5/32″ (4mm) – With Hole

Barrel – wood – brown – 12diax14mm, belaying pin – wood – brown – 15/32″ (12mm), belaying pin – wood – yellow – 9/16″ (14mm).

Rigging Cord – Fawn – 0.75mm x 20m – Amati

Stanchion – wood – brown – 15/64″ (6mm).

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