model yacht paint

Painting Waterline

by Barry (UK)

Here is a sample that I used for an A-B test of the two paint techniques. I spray-painted it with a solid coat of paint - automotive filler primer is what I had available for the test.

I masked the sample as I would a potential waterline on a model boat.

I covered one half of the length of the sample and sprayed a second coat of primer. This is a close-up of where the two areas meet.

Here is a close-up of the results after spraying the entire unmasked area with a coat of satin black, letting it dry and removing the masking tape. The upper is the result of traditional use of masking tape.

• Clean and prep the surface as you normally would.
• Paint the lighter of the two colors first. Let the paint over-spray well into the are where the second color will go (this too is nothing new)
• Mask the waterline with regular masking tape. Cover the rest of the model with newspaper or cut up plastic bags and seal up to protect from over-spray.
• Use gravity to your advantage: place the hull such that gravity will help pull paint away from the masking tape joint.
• Spray a coat of paint of the same color as the first coat right on the masking tape joint. This coat will be the one that seeps under the tape. Since it is the exact same color as the previous coat it will be virtually invisible. Make sure the tape joint is covered entirely and sealed with paint. Let it dry.
• Now spray the actual color this area is supposed to have.
• Let dry to the touch and unmask carefully.

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What glues & paints do i need for a model ship.

• Updated on: 25th January 2021
• Written by Gary Renshaw

Introduction

There are a wide range of glues, paints & finishes on the market specifically designed for a particular purpose in model ship building.

The glues commonly used in the building of a wooden model ship include the following: 1.1 PVA Glue PVA glue is sometimes referred to as “carpenters glue”. It is readily available from hardware stores and some hobby shops. The glue is good for woodworking, is white in colour and dries clear and reasonably quickly. When using apply the glue to one surface. Any residue or spill should be removed with a damp cloth before the glue has time to set. Removing any residue or spill is particularly important where the area is to be varnished or stained later as any residue left will leave a mark that can be seen through the finish.

The glue is ideal for fixing the bulkheads to the keel on the model and for fixing the first layer of planking to the bulkheads. It provides a very strong bond. Also used for gluing the deck planking to the false deck of the model. PVA glue can be diluted with water and used for sealing rigging knots.

When applying the glue to the surfaces to be joined do not apply it using the nozzle of the bottle. Use a glue syringe or a brush to coat the surfaces to be glued.

Contact Glue

As the name implies, contact glues give an almost instant bond between the two surfaces. The glue is a gel and is brushed onto both surfaces that are to be joined. Once the glue is touch dry you can join both surfaces together. Extreme care needs to be taken to align the two surfaces as the bond is made instantly and is very strong. If a mistake is made removal will cause damage to the timber. Always dry fit the parts to be glued before applying the glue.

Contact glue is ideal for gluing the second layer of planking over the first layer of planking. The second layer of planking is usually a veneer decorative timber such as walnut or mahogany and is fixed in place very effectively using contact glue.

Be conscious of the vapours given off by this glue as it may cause breathing problems. Always ensure there is adequate ventilation when you are using contact glue. When finished always ensure the lid is firmly fitted and the container stored away from the exploring hands of little children.

Cyanoacrylate (Super) Glue

Cyanoacrylate (cyano) or Super glue is extremely quick drying—the glue sets in a matter of seconds depending upon the ambient temperature. It is packaged in a small tube of plastic bottle. Only very small amounts are required to be applied. This type of glue can be used to join metal to metal or metal to wood. Do not use cyano glue to fix the planking to the hull. Also, do not use this glue to seal a rigging knot as it can make the cord hard and brittle.

 Again do not apply the glue directly to the job using the nozzle. Use the point of a scaple blade to apply the glue to the location required. The gel form of this glue is ideal for fixing copper plates to the hull of a model.

Great care must be exercised when using cyano glue so as not to get any in your eye. Be familiar with the safety instructions on the container label. Again always ensure there is adequate ventilation when using the glue. When finished always ensure the lid is firmly fitted and the tube or bottle is stored away from the exploring hands of little children.

Two-Part Epoxy Glues

These glues consist of two parts—a resin and a hardener— that are in separate tubes and are mixed together in equal quantities. The glue dries in approximately 5 minutes depending upon the ambient temperature. These glues are ideal for fixing metal to metal or metal to wood. Use a spatula of matchstick to mix the resin and hardener on a glass block or scrap piece of wood. The glue will dry very hard and clear. Scrape off any excess while the glue is still in its plastic phase before it hardens.

Paints & Finishes

Finishes include paints, stains and varnishes. There are many on the market available from any good hobby shop or hardware store. Before reviewing paints and varnishes we need to consider wood fillers, glasspaper and brushes. When using stains or varnishes always apply first to a scrap piece of timber to assess its colour.

Wood Fillers

Wood fillers are used to fill in any gaps between timbers. It is particularly useful when completing the first layer of hull planking. Wood filler comes in a variety of timber colours to suit the particular type of timber being used. It is a soft putty-like material and once exposed to the air it will dry to form a hard surface. It is then suitable to be sanded. Apply small amounts either with a spatula or fingers to fill in any gaps or cracks in the timber surface and allow it to dry. As wood filler is water-based cleaning-up and washing hands after use is easy.

Sand or glasspaper is used to prepare the timber before applying any finish. A fine grade glasspaper is used between coats. Having coarse, medium and fine grade glasspaper on-hand is a must to adequately prepare timbers.

A range of brushes is required for model making from broad flat brushes to fine pointed brushes. Always clean the brushes thoroughly after use following the cleaning instructions provided on the paint, stain or varnish used. A good quality brush will last many years with good care.

There are a wide range of oil based enamel or water based acrylic paints available on the market for model ship building. Some modellers prefer not to paint their model ship relying instead on the natural textures and shades of the timbers used for the model. A timber stain is sometimes used to enhance their work.

The issue of the historically correct colours used for a period wooden model ship is often discussed particularly in relation to the correct hue for red, dark blue and yellow ochre. The shade of paints used on the original ships changed over time due to weathering and the development of paint making. Consequently, it is again a matter of personal preference as to the shade of colour selected.

Varnish & Stains

Timber that is stained or not painted needs to be sealed and protected with a good quality polyurethane matt or satin varnish. Some modellers prefer the low sheen of a satin finish. Other modellers consider it more historically accurate to use a matt finish. It is a personal choice whether to use matt or satin. When using a polyurethane varnish more than one coat is required to provide a good finish. When each coat is dry rub the surface with a fine grade glasspaper. This will make the timber grain more pronounced.

Shellac can also be used to protect and seal bare timber. It is similar to varnish in its finished appearance. Shellac crystals can be purchased at a good hardware or paint store. The crystals are placed in a container and dissolved in methylated spirits. The drying time between coats is shorter. When applied to timber the finish gives a distinct golden antique look with a low sheen.

Key Takeaways

• Model ship building requires specific glues and paints, each suited for different materials and purposes, such as PVA glue for wood, contact glue for instant bonds, and cyanoacrylate for quick-setting needs.
• Two-part epoxy glues offer strong metal to wood or metal to metal adhesion.
• A variety of paints and finishes are available, with preferences varying among modelers for oil-based enamel or water-based acrylic paints, and decisions on varnishing depending on the desired sheen and protection level.

Precautions

For all glues, paints and solvents follow the application and safety instructions on the tube or container. Some glues give-off a strong vapour so adequate ventilation should always be ensured when using them. Contact with the skin and eyes should also be avoided. Wash your hands immediately after using the glue. Always store the glues, paints and solvents in a locked cupboard or on a high shelf away from the reach of children.

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Model Expo MS4800CB - Paint Set for Ships - 12 Most Popular Paints for Historic Wood Models

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• 1 oz. bottles of acrylic paints that dry flat with a perfect finish on wood and metal.

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Model Shipways MS4000CB 12 pc. Acrylic Paint Set for Wood Models & Historic Ships - Model Kit Paint. Our 10 most popular historic ship model colors plus two bottles of primer. Each bottle is a full 1 ounce. Our paints are acrylics, which means they are water based (not oil) and can be thinned for air brushing with water. They are perfect for wood and metal applications. You Get The Following Paints With This Set. MS 4801 - Bulwarks Dark Green MS 4802 - Bulwarks Gun Carriage Red MS 4809 - Bright Yellow MS 4814 - Hull Bottom Copper MS 4831 - White MS 4817 - Bulwarks Brown MS 4964 - True Blue MS 4825 - Deck Light Gray MS 4828 - Iron Cannon Black MS 4969 - Light Gold MS 4839 - Primer (2 bottles)

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Basic Model Yacht Finishing/Refinishing

Article by Walt Shuggs

Given the number of issues that can arise while applying a finish to your model yacht, here is a step-by-step process you can follow to ensure a successful paint job.

• Wash the entire model with dishwashing soap (like Dawn) and water to remove soluble dirt and contaminants.
• When dry, clean the area to be painted with a fast-evaporating solution (like rubbing alcohol) to remove any wax and/or grease left behind.
• Only after both cleaning steps are complete should the boat be sanded to prep for filling imperfections, sanding, and painting. Get rid of the FISHEYES!
• Sand the area to be painted smooth using progressively smoother grades of sandpaper to ensure that the new paint produces the finish you desire. For example, start with #220 wet/dry paper and progress up to a #600 wet/dry paper.
• Wash the boat with clean water again to remove any residue left from sanding.
• Once you are satisfied with the “finish” of your bare (and/or sanded old paint) hull, you may want to apply a primer coat to fill in any microscopic scratches, divots, etc. Be sure to use the same manufacturer’s products – do not mix brands of paint.
• Just prior to applying any paint, use a ‘tack rag’ to remove any tiny bits of debris on the surface. (A clean non-lint type of cloth can be used for this step, although a commercially available tack rag works best as it is sticky but leaves no residue.)
• Read the label on your paint product (spray can, etc.) to see what is recommended for temperature of application, flash time, number of coats to apply, etc.
• Apply a ‘dust coat’ and allow that coat to ‘flash off’ before applying the next coat(s).
• Once you have applied a sufficient quantity of coats—getting to the level of gloss you want—let the boat dry for the manufacturer’s recommended time.
• You can enhance the level of gloss on your boat by adding a UV-resistant clear coat or two on top of the color you painted. In fact, you can clear coat the entire boat—even areas you may not have painted—to provide a better resistance to the effects of sunlight.
• Polishing with an automotive ‘polishing compound’ may further improve the level of your boat’s gloss.

The various tape and other masking materials can be seen here prior to their removal. Photo by John Stoudt.

Some painting tips by TMY Staff

• A further thought on number 8. If you are repainting the hull, make sure that the two paints—the one on the boat and the one you are applying—are the same chemical base.
• If they are incompatible, you can use a high-quality primer to pre-paint the area to be sprayed. Use one by the same manufacturer of the paint you are applying.
• “Flash off” is allowing the solvent in the dust coat to evaporate. Check the label for flash time for your paint.
• Masking the areas you do not want to paint can be done using automotive masking tape. You can stretch it to conform to the shape of the hull, deck, whatever. Once that tape has been applied and rubbed down, you can apply newspaper masks to the tape, with painter’s tape to “hide” the entire boat from the paint overspray.
• When removing the tape, pull back on a very sharp angle to ensure that you do not lift any of the paint.
• Set the hull aside and allow it to dry (to the touch) and then let it set for 7 days. This will ensure that the paint has hardened. Caution: The paint will harden to the touch in a couple of hours but will not fully harden for as long as 7 days.

Finished paint job prior to polishing out the finish. Photo by John Stoudt.

El Blog de Artesanía Latina

Construyendo maquetas juntos desde 1970 – Building models together since 1970 – Construisant des maquettes avec vous depuis 1970

Paints for Model Ships (I): New Catalog of Specific Sets for Naval Modeling

For a long time our client friends asked us what paints and colors to use to paint their Artesania Latina naval scale models. That fact was a big annoyance for the modelers. We have solved the problem! We already have an extensive and varied catalog of specific sets of paints for model ships . Made of acrylic and water-based paints with an excellent quality, and most importantly, quick-drying . They can be applied both with airbrush -we recommend it- as with brush . The existing colors are presented in 20 ml jars.

When you want to undertake new naval modeling , you can also purchase the precise model ship paints you need for those faithful miniature replicas. Goodbye to the headaches of having to check what the original colors were in official documents. You will not be forced to search the Internet for a page that faithfully reflects this data. Directly, in the same product sheet of the naval model that you are going to build, you will find the link that takes you to the specific paintings that your scale model requires. On the other hand, if you are on our website and go to the ‘Finishing’ section and its subsection ‘ Paints and Finishing Sets ‘ you will directly see all the paints for model ships that we offer. Below, we begin to break down what they all are so you can get to know them.

PAINTS FOR MODEL SHIPS: WOODEN CARAVELS AND GALLEON

One of the most requested sets of paints for model ships from Artesania Latina. The one destined to paint the naval scale models of caravels and galleons (277PACK8) thanks to which the Spanish discovered America and undertook great deeds. It consists of 12 jars of acrylic water-based paints with the following colors. Off White, Off Black, Bright Red, Royal Blue, Buff, Cocoa Brown, Dark Red Leather, Burnt Umber, Gold, Vermilion, Navy Blue and Basic Skin. Get the best finishes for references 22410 ( La Niña ), 22411-N ( S anta Maria ), 22412 ( La Pinta ) and 22452-N ( San Francisco Galleon ).

PAINTS FOR MODEL SHIPS: FISHING BOATS (BASIC)

The second set of paints for ship models is, in this case, the basic for fishing boats (277PACK13). It is one of the two packs aimed at painting this type of marine and river vessels. Perfect for optimal finishes in the naval miniature of the traditional trawler fishing boat of the Mediterranean Sea , Mare Nostrum (20100-N). Also for other similar scale models. The colors included in this set with 6 jars of acrylic and water-based paints are Off White, Off Black, Hull Red, Royal Blue, Aluminum and Gold.

PAINTS FOR MODEL SHIPS: FISHING BOATS (ADVANCED)

The third set of paints for ship models that we propose is the advanced for fishing boats (277PACK3). It is the other of the two packs that are used to paint this type of fishing boats. Ideal for excellent finishes in naval scale models of the tuna boat Carmen II (18030) and tuna boat Marina II (20506), both from the Cantabrian Sea , and also from the commented Mare Nostrum (20100-N), among many others. The colors included in this set with 12 jars of acrylic and water-based paints are Off White, Off Black, Hull Red, Royal Blue, Deep Yellow, Burnt Umber, Hull Green, Aluminium, Gold, Copper, Vermilion and Navy Blue.

PAINTS FOR WOODEN PADDLE STEAMER MODEL KING OF THE MISSISSIPPI

The fourth set of paints is the one used for the beautiful wooden scale model of the paddle steamer King of the Mississippi (277PACK6). Magnificent if you want the best finishes in the model of this American ship (20515). These colors are included in the pack of 6 bottles of acrylic and water paint. Off Black, Off White, Bright Red, Buff, Gold and Burnt Umber.

PAINTS FOR FRENCH TRAINING MODEL SHIP BELEM AND FRENCH ROYAL NAVY

One of the jewels of the naval modeling of ArtesanIa Latina is the French training ship Belem (22519). The good news is that we have a paints set (277PACK2) specific for this majestic wooden model. In order for your miniature naval replica to be a mirror of the original ship it must be faithfully painted. Including 5 bottles of acrylic and water-based paint, as well as one of Oak Tone Satin Stain. Colors: Off Black, Off White, Prussian Blue, Hull Red and Gold.

Likewise, Artesania Latina offers an exclusive set of paints for French Navy ships (277PACK4) for Hermione La Fayette Frigate Wooden Ship Model Kit (22517-N). In case you have another model of the Gallic country that you haven’t painted yet because I didn’t know how or with what products. Paint with the 12 jars of acrylic and water-based paints. There are all these colors! Off White, Off Black, Bright Red, Prussian Blue, Royal Blue, Ice Yellow, Deep Yellow, Buff, Burnt Umber, Cocoa Brown, Vermilion and Gold.

PAINTS FOR MODEL SHIPS: AMERICAN SCHOONERS (SWIFT)

The wooden model of the American pilot boat Swift (22110-N) also has its set of paints for sale separately. The good news is that we have a paint set (277PACK9) specific for this majestic wooden model. In order for your miniature naval replica to be a mirror of the original ship it must be faithfully painted. Paint with its 6 bottles of acrylic and water-based paints: Off White, Off Black, Hull Red, Burnt Umber, Hull Green and Gold.

PAINTS FOR SHIP MODELS: ROYAL NAVY (HMS VICTORY)

The wooden models of Royal Navy sips are lucky because they also have the precise set of paints (277PACK11) for these emblematic vessels. Among them, the HMS Victory . Paint your Anglo-Saxon scale model with its 12 jars of acrylic and water-based paints. Off White, Off Black, Bright Red, Royal Blue, Checker Yellow, Buff, Cocoa Brown, Burnt Umber, Gold, Vermilion, Navy Blue and Basic Skin.

You can paint your naval scale models with the confidence and safety that our high-quality products provide. Read the second part of this post, click here!

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Marine Paints

Historically Accurate Marine Paints. Please note that due to printing process limitations and the differences in individual computer screen resolutions, colors may appear different on your monitor than the actual color.

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• How to paint a boat: A step-by-step guide

Painting your boat not only enhances its visual appeal but also protects it from the damaging effects of saltwater, sunlight, and other elements. Whether you have a sailboat, powerboat, or kayak, the principles of boat painting remain largely the same.

Assessing your boat's condition

Before you begin, evaluate your boat's current condition. Inspect the hull for any damage, scratches, or rust that may need to be addressed before painting. Make a list of necessary repairs and tackle them first.

Gathering the right tools and materials

To paint your boat successfully, you'll need a range of tools and materials, including paintbrushes, rollers, sandpaper, masking tape, drop cloths, and, most importantly, the appropriate marine paint.

Preparing the boat surface

Proper preparation is the key to a successful paint job. Start by cleaning the boat's surface thoroughly to remove dirt, grease, and old paint. Sand the surface to create a smooth and clean canvas for the new paint to adhere to.

Applying primer

Priming is a crucial step to ensure good paint adhesion and durability. Apply a marine-grade primer that is compatible with the paint you've chosen. Allow it to dry thoroughly as per the manufacturer's instructions.

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Choosing the right paint.

Selecting the right type of marine paint is essential. There are different types of boat paint available, such as antifouling paint, topside paint, and bottom paint. Choose the one that suits your boat's needs and your intended use.

Applying the paint

Start by applying the paint to the boat's surface using a paintbrush or roller. Use long, even strokes, working from one end to the other. Be mindful of the weather conditions, as extreme temperatures and humidity can affect the paint's drying process.

Applying additional coats

For best results, you may need to apply multiple coats of paint. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for drying times between coats. Applying multiple thin coats is often better than one thick coat.

Drying and curing

Allow the paint to dry completely before launching your boat into the water. The curing time can vary depending on the type of paint and environmental conditions. Follow the paint manufacturer's instructions for specific guidance.

Final touches and cleanup

After the paint has dried, remove any masking tape and clean your tools and equipment. Inspect your boat's finish for any imperfections, and make any necessary touch-ups.

Painting a boat requires careful planning, preparation, and attention to detail, but the results can be incredibly rewarding. Not only will your boat look like new, but it will also be better protected against the elements, ensuring many more enjoyable days on the water.

Whether you're a DIY enthusiast or a boat owner looking to maintain your vessel's beauty and functionality, this step-by-step guide on how to paint a boat will help you achieve a professional and long-lasting finish. So, roll up your sleeves, gather your materials, and give your boat the makeover it deserves. Happy painting!

So what are you waiting for? Take a look at our range of charter boats and head to some of our favourite  sailing destinations.

I am ready to help you with booking a boat for your dream vacation. Contact me.

Denisa Nguyenová

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• Modelshipyard: Building Your Model
• Paint Colors, Stains and Wood Finishes

Primer/Sealer for Wooden Model

• Thread starter Wander
• Start date Apr 16, 2022

• Apr 16, 2022

Hi all, new here and just jumping back into the wonderful world of wooden ship models! I'm soon to start build on my Artesania Latina Hermione (updated version) and want to make sure I have all bases covered. So then, I have a question (which I haven't seen a clear answer to unless I'm blind): Which basic primer and sealer to use for water-based acrylic paints? TIA  

Henter said: Hi all, new here and just jumping back into the wonderful world of wooden ship models! I'm soon to start build on my Artesania Latina Hermione (updated version) and want to make sure I have all bases covered. So then, I have a question (which I haven't seen a clear answer to unless I'm blind): Which basic primer and sealer to use for water-based acrylic paints? TIA Click to expand...

Philski said: I personally like clear brushing lacquer but have used sanding sealer as well as shellac. Click to expand...

• Apr 17, 2022

Wander said: Thanks! Would you use the same for the sealer? Click to expand...

Cork larsen

• Apr 23, 2022

Krylon Matt finish  

Wander said: Hi all, new here and just jumping back into the wonderful world of wooden ship models! I'm soon to start build on my Artesania Latina Hermione (updated version) and want to make sure I have all bases covered. So then, I have a question (which I haven't seen a clear answer to unless I'm blind): Which basic primer and sealer to use for water-based acrylic paints? TIA Click to expand...

Wander said: So then, I have a question (which I haven't seen a clear answer to unless I'm blind): Which basic primer and sealer to use for water-based acrylic paints? Click to expand...

bandido said: The only reason I use Primers is to seal the wood and save on the base acrylic color I use Tamiya and never use a primer but that decision is up to the user Click to expand...

danielsje said: There are many options for what you need and modelers all have their favorites. I use a water based matte polyurethane exclusively, the brand I use is MinWax as a primer sealer on all wood surfaces. I coat most parts and surfaces as I progress with the build. This poly seals the grains and acrylic paints apply and adhere nicely. In addition all glues that I have used adhere to surfaces coated with this poly…including CA glues and PVA glues. One exception is if you plan on staining a surface, determine how you want the stain to look before treating the wood. I normally stain a surface before applying the poly. The stain takes on a richer, deeper, tone when applied to untreated wood. However, you can control the stain saturation for lighter tones by treating wood first with a sealer (not the poly) that remains porous once dry…look for what is called “sanding sealer” again MinWax being one brand readily available. Sanding sealer seals the wood grain but allows stain to penetrate into the wood rather than puddle on the surface. Sanding sealer is designed to help control the depth of penetration of stains thus controlling the tone. Once stained, I apply a finish coat of the poly. One more caution, in every case natural unfinished wood is very slightly darkened with the poly application. I have never found this to be an issue especially with lighter toned wood such as bass wood. The slightly darkened tone is actually a better look. I use the poly to specifically achieve this richer tone. If you are looking for a primer paint for all surfaces under acrylic paints, especially metal parts, there is also an acrylic primer paint available by most paint lines. It is normally neutral grey in tone with a flat matte sheen although I have seen it in creamy white. Acrylic primer is specially formulated to have extra surface adhering ingredients. Whatever brand of acrylic paint you choose look for a corresponding primer option. I use simple craft acrylic paints and use the primer for that line. I have found that for water based acrylic paints a water based acrylic primer works best. Also, primer paint tends to be thicker than regular acrylic paint so use caution when apply the primer paint that you smooth it out and do not fill in details. Last comment…the poly noted above also acts like a primer for your acrylic paints. I use the poly as both a sealer and a primer under acrylic paints on all wood surfaces. I use the grey acrylic primer paint on metal surfaces. In addition, when you paint or stain a surface you can use the poly on top of the paint or stain to provide additional surface sealing and a finish coat. Poly over acrylic paint gives the paint a deeper, richer, tone as well as protecting the finish. Just my experience and preferences but I hope this helps… Click to expand...

• Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques

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Model Shipway's Paints

By Worldway February 21, 2017 in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques

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When I purchased the Bluenose from Model Shipways I also purchased the accompanying paint set. 

I had seen some bad reviews about Model Expo's paints.  However I'm not sure if the Model Expo's paints are the same as the Model Shipway's paints.

It was a small investment to get the paint.  I was more concerned about getting the colours right.  Should I go ahead and use this paint or should I throw my investment in the trash and go another route.  I plan on using a brush and not airbrushing.  If in fact this paint is not recommended, is there something I can do (use thinners etc) to still use it.

Your comments would be most appreciated.

• mtaylor , Zocane and Nirvana

If you want to build a ship, don't drum up the men to gather wood, divide the work and give orders. Instead, teach them to yearn for the vast and endless sea  

Antoine de Saint Exupery

Current Builds

Bluenose  - Model Shipways - 1:64 Scale

Fair American  - Model Shipways - 1:48 Scale

HMS Winchelsea 1764 - Group Build

Guns of History Naval Smoothbore Deck Gun - 1:24 Scale

Finished Builds

Mare Nostrum - Artesania Latina - 1:35 Scale

Guns of History Carronade - Model Shipways - 1:24 Scale

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I believe the ME paints are the MS paints (same company)...

As for tossing them.. test some on the woods you're using.  If all that needs to be done is thinning or some other trick of the painter's craft, use them.

• Nirvana and Zocane

Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build:                                                                                              Past Builds:   La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans  - ON HOLD            Tri ton Cross-Section    

  NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                             HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64                

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                           On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                      Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0  (Abandoned)           

Derek, they are water soluble so just thin them down to the consistency you want and brush them on - they go on okay and cover well. I personally find them a tad thick but they are okay to use. Don't throw them out.

• Zocane , mtaylor and Nirvana

Jack   " No one is as smart as all of us " -    Is ón cheann a thagann an cheird    The craft comes from the head --------------------------------------------- Current build :  US Constellation

Non-ship builds:   USCG UH-65A Dolphin     M16 Multi-gun motor carriage diorama    M4A3 Sherman Tanks dioramas

1936-1939 Mercedes Benz 540K   1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II   JSDF Light Armor Vehicle  

Figures :   The Last Bridge: Raider Reaper   Edge of Universe: Ianis    The Last Bridge: Vadim with cart

Completed build log(s) : 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne , Willie L Bennett    1888 50 ft Gaff-rigged Ice Yacht Scratch Build   The Sullivans (DD 537) Liberty Ship SS John W Brown  USS England (DE 635) , Artesania Latina Titanic Lifeboat Gallery : Swift , Armed Virginia Sloop , Santisima Trinidad Captain's Launch , 18th Century Longboat , Marie Jeanne

Other:  Rhinebeck Aerodrome Tour  

Mix the paint really well and use a good filler on the wood.

• Nirvana , Jack12477 and mtaylor

My advice and comments are always worth what you paid for them.

You can get a "universal Acrylic thinner" at Hobby Lobby and elsewhere.  It's worth trying to bring them back.

• Canute , mtaylor and Nirvana

Current diversion:  Anchor Hoy c 1815 - 1825  1:48 scale

Recent Builds:

Fair American:

18th C. Longboat:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2284-longboat-18th-c-by-maury-modelshipways-by-chuck/

Echo Cross Section:  http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/513-echo-cross-section-by-maury/

Emma C. Berry http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/203-emma-c-berry-132-pof-by-maury/

The biggest problem with them is inconsistency, so you have to thin then test, thin and test, and each color (and each jar) will me markedly different than the others.  I used them on my AVS and got good results, but I won't be using them again.  Also they are completely unsuitable for spraying if you ever go that route, they'll gum up your airbrush with rapidity as the pigment is not fine enough for airbrushing.

Since you already have them, I'd say give them a shot, and if you just don't like them, it's not that much money to replace as needed with Vallejo or something else higher quality.

• Nirvana , mtaylor , Jack12477 and 3 others

Mystery project coming soon!

Current build - Medway Longboat

Complete  - Armed Virginia Sloop         Complete - Carmen (First Build)  

Did you read Brian's (GuntherMT)  post above ? He answered your question.

• Canute , kurtvd19 and Nirvana

Vallejo makes a paint specifically formulated for airbrushing straight from the bottle - no mixing or dilution required. They also make a formulation for applying with a brush. Both are available from Hobby Lobby or Micro-Mark (in NJ) mail order.

• Canute , Zocane and Nirvana

4 hours ago, Jack12477 said: Vallejo makes a paint specifically formulated for airbrushing straight from the bottle - no mixing or dilution required. They also make a formulation for applying with a brush. Both are available from Hobby Lobby or Micro-Mark (in NJ) mail order.

Amazon has the paint too.

I like Vallejo's paint.

• mtaylor , Jack12477 , Zocane and 1 other

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Respectfully

Finished: T37,   BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat , Winchelsea Capstan

Current: America by Constructo , Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS , Bluenose by MS

Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey

Nautical Research Guild Member  - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry

12 minutes ago, mtaylor said: What size hardwood?  Are we talking billets, logs, sheets, strips?    So... wide open question so the answer is depending one what, will determine the tool.   There's assorted power and hand saws, even Exacto blades.      Did you read the basic hand tools article here:   http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-materials-and-tools.php  ???   That section should answer all your tooling questions.

As Mark mentioned, did you read the article about materials and tools? I also posted that article for you to read in Chuck's planking questions.

I would sincerely recommend to read through many of the help and hint articles posted. Most of the questions will be answered there.

• mtaylor , Jack12477 and Canute

Check the ModelExpo website.

• Canute , mtaylor and Jack12477

On 2/21/2017 at 2:15 PM, Worldway said: When I purchased the Bluenose from Model Shipways I also purchased the accompanying paint set.    I had seen some bad reviews about Model Expo's paints.  However I'm not sure if the Model Expo's paints are the same as the Model Shipway's paints.   It was a small investment to get the paint.  I was more concerned about getting the colours right.  Should I go ahead and use this paint or should I throw my investment in the trash and go another route.  I plan on using a brush and not airbrushing.  If in fact this paint is not recommended, is there something I can do (use thinners etc) to still use it.   Your comments would be most appreciated.

FWIW, I tossed the Model Shipways paints and went with Testors Model Masters acrylics, applied using a brush.  At the time the MS paints were thick and chunky, and I fell back on what I was comfortable with from my old plastic days.

• Nirvana , Jack12477 , Canute and 1 other

Current build -- MS Bluenose

Future build - MS Flying Fish

"A ship is safe in harbor, but that's not what ships are for." - William G. T. Shedd

I hope I am adding useful information to this mix. Here goes.

I have yet to try these paints as I was a "committed" Floquil user for many years and had good results (spraying or brush) with them albeit the toxicity was a constant worry. When I returned to modeling recently I was disappointed to learn of the demise of the company. I turned to Model Master paints as an alternative and found them to be a reasonable substitute although I am still in the experimental stage. I did run across this chart on the web that correlates the 2 brands. It i ME http://www.microscale.com/Floquil Color Chart.pdf s . I have also been looking at Tru Color paints trucolorpaint.com which are supposed to be comparable to Floquil paints in propertiies if not color. I have tried to get a chart comparison from them but the last time I tried they never came through. Both MM and Tru Color are mixable to get any hue or color one is looking for. I solicit comments from others.

• mtaylor , Nirvana , Jack12477 and 2 others

Tru-color is acetone based. Wide range of colors aimed at model RRers. Supposed to airbrush nicely.

Started: MS Bounty Longboat ,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

Member Nautical Research Guild

43 minutes ago, singhnick348 said: What is the average price for a bottle of Vallejo acrylic paint? 

Do you ever do your own research ? Or do you expect us to do it for you?

ModelExpo - Vallejo paints

Hobby Lobby - Vallejo paints

• Nirvana , Canute , Chuck Seiler and 2 others

Google is your friend.  Heard of it? 

• Canute , CaptainSteve , Nirvana and 1 other

7 minutes ago, mtaylor said: Nick.... Google is your friend.  Heard of it? 

If not Google, Bing it!

• Jack12477 , Canute , CaptainSteve and 1 other
• 1 month later...

I have bought and used the model shipways paint and have to agree with Brian that it is very inconsistent.  I have several jars of their paint that were never opened before and yet when opened the paint appeared to be a shrunken hockey puck!  Some of them were more the consistency of paste, and even with prolonged mixing and thinning with water, required much sanding to eliminate the coarseness of the finish.  I don't know if somewhere in shipping they were frozen or what.  On the other hand. some of the others that I was able to use seemed to work just fine.  So my opinion is to search for another brand or hope you get lucky.

• Canute , Nirvana and mtaylor

“You’ve just got to know your limitations”   Dirty Harry

Current Builds :   Modified MS 1/8” scale Phantom,   and modified plastic/wood hybrid of Aurora 1:87 scale whaling bark Wanderer .

Past Builds : (Done & sold) 1/8” scale A.J. Fisher 2 mast schooner Challenge , 1/6” scale scratch built   whaler Wanderer w/ plans & fittings from A.J. Fisher, and numerous plastic kits including 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution (twice), Cutty Sark , and Mayflower .

                   (Done & in dry dock) Modified 1/8” scale Revell U.S.S. Constitution w/ wooden deck and masting [too close encounter w/conc. floor in move]

Hope to get to builds : MS 3/16” scale Pride of Baltimore II ,   MS 1/2” scale pinky schooner Glad Tidings ,  a scratch build 3/16” scale   Phantom , and a scratch build 3/16" scale Denis Sullivan.

ca.shipwright

I built the Bluenose II and wanted a midnight blue color for the upper hull and a rust red for below the waterline. I couldn't find what I wanted in any brand of paint. I went to Lowes and looked at all their paint color chips and found the colors I wanted. I had them make me a trial jar of each color using eggshell acrylic base. I thinned this 20% with distilled water, Brushed on several coats, and finished with a satin Wipe-on-poly. Came out very nice. At $3.95 for an 8 oz. jar, you can't beat this.

• Canute , mischief , pythagoras and 6 others

Michael Zemmel

Midlothian. VA

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11562-hmb-endeavour-by-cashipwright-corel-160/

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/15329-hms-victory-by-cashipwright-panart-art-738-1:78/

"Buy all your toys before you retire"

MS paint dried up very quickly once a jar was opened.

So I did a try with our food vacuum sealer, shh don't tell the admiral,

1 - opened the jar - did some painting on a test piece of wood, that meaning returning the brush back to the jar.

2- closed the lid - only hand tight

3 - put the jar in a sealant bag, used the vacuum sealer

4 - had it sit for one week.

5 -  open the bag and jar, not completely dry paint but much more dense.  Couldn't get it diluted properly.

Wonder if there is something of the chemistry of the paint that causes it.....

I am not a chemist maybe someone else has an explanation.

• BETAQDAVE , mtaylor and Canute

Pet peeve of mine: Floquil paints are not "acetone based" and Acrylics are not "water based". In both cases the water and acetone are in the case of the Floquil, solvents for the paint polymer vehicle or, in the case of Acrylics, they are water borne i.e. they are suspended in the water by various means but not soluble in the water(acrylic paint vehicles have little or no water solubility depending on their acrylic polymer's composition). There are acrylic paint vehicles that are soluble in the appropriate solvent blend (KRYLON spray paints for example). Some acrylic vehicles have partial solubility in water alcohol mixes which is how acrylic water borne hobby paints develop good flow and level properties.

• Ryland Craze , mtaylor , Canute and 2 others
• 5 weeks later...

Paul Jarman

On ‎23‎/‎02‎/‎2017 at 10:06 PM, Nirvana said: Amazon has the paint too. I like Vallejo's paint.

I've taken to using Vallejo's paints. they brush on nice and smooth and coverage is excellent and are very vibrant, They also come in a good sized bottle.

• Nirvana , Jaxboat and Canute

A mati-rms-titanic-1912-1250

Unfinished kit

Revell Container-ship-colombo-express

AL -    King of the Mississippi

Hello Les here. Here's my short primmer on paint. Sand out wood till smooth. If you have a compressor blow off sanding dust and wipe down with a damp lint free cloth. Blow off again. Over bare wood I use Humbrol or Testors flat oils.  Oil soaks into wood and seals better than latex. Spray or brush on in a light coat. After 12 hours sand lightly and repeat if necessary. Now your good to go. Use oil or latex for your top coats. A smooth base will give you a good start on the top coat. I have seen many finishes ruined by a lack of proper pre prep.

• mtaylor , BETAQDAVE and Jaxboat

Check my March 31 post if you haven't already. It may give you some ideas. As everyone says, the work is in the preparation, filling and sanding to very smooth. Then a primer. Several thinned coats work much better than one thick coat.

• Canute and mtaylor

I agree with you Michael.  I used Home Depot because it's close to home. They even can match a color swatch.  Thinning is necessary to get a smooth finish. That's the best deal you will ever find.

Pythagoras (Tom)

• mtaylor and Canute

Confusion continues for this novice.

In another section in this category, I asked about using paint samples from Lowes or Home Depot.  I received several answers describing that paint pigment's will be to large and cover detail.  I specifically mentioned latex, which is also mentioned above.  Does thinning reduce pigment size?

If at first you don't succeed, destroy all evidence that you even tried.

No, the pigment size is determined when the pigment is ground up.  Thinning only affects the liquid part of the paint - regardless of being latex or oil based.

• Jaxboat , Canute , mtaylor and 1 other

Kurt Van Dahm

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

Thanks for the information.

I will abandon latex...except for those special evenings.

• Captain Slog , Canute and mtaylor

Pigment is prepared for incorporation into paints and inks in various ways. The general term is grinding. Energy is applied to the pigment to disaggregate the particles and wet them. I have made water borne acrylic house paint in a lab with a Waring blender. The finer the pigment the smoother the finish. House paints from home depot are not going to have the finer sized pigments of a good quality waterborne paint. BTW: not all waterborne paints are latex. Latex emulsions are totally insoluble in water.They are stabilized in water as emulsions by surfactants (soaps). Some waterborne paints have limited water solubility and are called water reducible. Such solubility aides in pigment dispersion and flow and leveling during application either by brush or spray. Waterborne acrylics are very sophisticated and chemically complicated beasts.

• Canute , BETAQDAVE and mtaylor

Hello Les here. As a cabinet maker, I spray my own finishes. I thought man I can save big money and buy a quart of latex paint for 12 bucks where a tiny bottle of Testors or Humbrol is 4 bucks. Didn't work out so well with my airbrush. However it has to do with how finely the pigments are ground. Trying to airbrush with Benjamin Moore paints won't work, nice if you use a Binks automotive sprayer  to spray cars and furniture. Trust me on this issue. Hand brushing works out well but you may have to thin it out a little to get an acceptable base coat. Top coats the same procedure. Overall I still prefer an oil base top coat as it has a longer flash over time so you can go back and smooth out brush strokes. Latex based paints have come a very long way and the VOC loads are lower. Great if you don't work in a ventilated area. Practice is most important. A poor quality paint finish can ruin your best efforts. You don't want any model to look like it was painted with a broom.

• mtaylor , BETAQDAVE , Canute and 2 others

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Marine Paint: A Comprehensive Guide for Owners

Marine paint is a specialized type of coating designed specifically for use in marine environments. Its primary purpose is to protect marine vessels, structures, and equipment from the harsh conditions.

Marine paint is formulated to provide superior protection to boats, yachts, ships, and other watercraft. It is available in a wide range of colors and finishes, including gloss, semi-gloss, and matte.

Some of the key characteristics of these coating systems include:

• Resistance to saltwater, UV radiation, and temperature fluctuations
• High durability and abrasion resistance
• Resistance to fading and chalking
• Resistance to marine fouling, such as algae, barnacles, and other organisms

Marine paint is formulated with special additives and resins that provide these properties. Some of the most common resins used in boat paint include epoxy, polyurethane, and alkyd. These resins provide high durability, adhesion, and chemical resistance.

When selecting marine coating systems, it is important to consider the specific needs of the vessel or structure being painted. Factors such as the type of watercraft, the intended use, and the environmental conditions will all impact the choice of coating. It is also important to follow proper surface preparation and application techniques to ensure the best possible results.

Overall, marine coating is an essential component of any watercraft maintenance program. By providing superior protection against the harsh marine environment, it helps to extend the life of boats and other marine structures and equipment.

Types of Marine Paint

When it comes to marine paint, there are several types to choose from. Each type of paint is designed for a specific purpose, and it is important to choose the right one for your boat. Here are the most common types of marine coatings:

Topside Boat Paint

Topside boat paint is designed to be used above the waterline of a boat. This type of paint is used on the hull, deck, and interior of a boat. Topside paints come in a variety of options, including one-part polyurethane, two-part polyurethane, and alkyd marine enamel. One-part polyurethane is the easiest to apply, while two-part polyurethane provides a more durable finish. Alkyd marine enamel is a budget-friendly option that is easy to apply, but it is not as durable as polyurethane.

Boat Bottom Paint

Boat bottom paint is used on the hull below the waterline. This type of paint is designed to protect the hull from the harsh marine environment, such as barnacles, algae, and other marine growth. There are two types of boat bottom paint: hard bottom paint and ablative bottom paint. Hard bottom paint is a durable option that provides long-lasting protection, while ablative bottom paint slowly wears away over time, releasing biocides to prevent marine growth.

Antifouling Paint

Antifouling paint is a type of boat bottom paint that is specifically designed to prevent marine growth. This type of paint contains biocides that prevent barnacles, algae, and other marine growth from attaching to the hull. Antifouling paint is available in both hard and ablative options.

Marine Deck Coatings

Marine deck coatings are used on the deck of a boat to protect it from the harsh marine environment. This type of paint is designed to be slip-resistant and to provide a durable finish. Marine deck coatings come in a variety of options, including epoxy, polyurethane, and acrylic. Epoxy is the most durable option, while acrylic is the most budget-friendly. Polyurethane provides a balance between durability and cost.

Choosing the right marine paint for your boat is important to ensure that it is protected from the harsh marine environment. By understanding the different types of paint available, you can choose the right one for your boat’s needs.

Application of Marine Paint

Here are some guidelines on how to apply marine paint effectively.

Surface Preparation

Before applying marine paint, it is essential to prepare the surface properly. The surface should be clean, dry, and free of any contaminants such as oil, grease, or rust. The following steps should be followed for surface preparation:

• Remove any loose paint, rust, or other debris using a wire brush or sandpaper.
• Clean the surface thoroughly using a solvent or detergent.
• Rinse the surface with clean water and allow it to dry completely.
• Sand the surface to create a rough surface for better adhesion of the paint.

Paint Application

Once the surface is properly prepared, it is time to apply your coating. The following steps should be followed for paint application:

• Stir the paint thoroughly to ensure that it is well mixed.
• Apply the paint using a brush, roller, or spray gun, depending on the size and shape of the surface being painted.
• Apply the paint in thin, even coats, and avoid over-applying the paint to prevent runs and drips.
• Allow each coat to dry completely before applying the next coat.

Drying Time

The drying time of marine paint depends on several factors, such as temperature, humidity, and the thickness of the paint layer. Generally, these coatings take about 24 hours to dry completely. However, it is recommended to wait for at least 48 hours before exposing the painted surface to water or other harsh conditions.

In conclusion, proper surface preparation, paint application, and drying time are crucial for the effective application of marine paint. By following these guidelines, one can ensure that the painted surface is protected from the harsh marine environment.

Marine Paint Brands

When it comes to marine paint, there are several reputable brands to choose from. Each brand has its own unique features and benefits, so it’s important to do your research and choose the one that best fits your needs. Here are some of the top brands:

Interlux is a well-known brand in the marine industry, offering a wide range of high-quality paints and coatings. Their products are designed to provide long-lasting protection against the harsh marine environment, including resistance to fading, chalking, and abrasion. Interlux offers both topside and bottom paints, as well as varnishes and primers.

Pettit has been a trusted name in marine coatings for over 150 years. Their products are known for their durability and long-lasting protection against the elements. Pettit offers a wide range of bottom paints, topside paints, varnishes, and primers, as well as specialty coatings for specific applications.

Awlgrip is a premium paint brand, known for its high-gloss finish and superior durability. Their products are designed to provide long-lasting protection against UV rays, saltwater, and other harsh marine conditions. Awlgrip offers a range of topcoats, primers, and specialty coatings, as well as custom color matching services.

TotalBoat is a newer brand in the marine industry, but they have quickly gained a reputation for offering high-quality products at an affordable price point. Their products are designed to be easy to use and provide long-lasting protection against the elements. TotalBoat offers a range of paints and coatings, including topside paints, bottom paints, and varnishes.

Overall, there are many great marine paint brands to choose from. Whether you’re looking for a premium product or something more affordable, there is a brand out there that can meet your needs. It’s important to do your research and choose a product that will provide the protection and durability you need for your specific application.

Environmental Impact of Marine Paint

Marine paint is a coating applied to the exterior of ships and boats to protect them from corrosion, fouling, and other environmental factors . However, the environmental impact of marine paint has been a growing concern in recent years.

One of the main issues with marine paint is that it can contain toxic chemicals such as copper, lead, and tributyltin (TBT). These chemicals can leach into the water and harm marine life, including fish, shellfish, and other aquatic organisms. TBT, in particular, has been linked to reproductive problems in marine mammals and has been banned in many countries since 2008.

Another environmental issue these coatings is the release of microplastics and paint particles into the ocean. These particles can be ingested by marine life, leading to potential health problems and even death. Estimates suggest that paint particles may contribute up to 35% of the synthetic micro-debris input in the ocean.

To address these environmental concerns, many countries have implemented regulations on the use of marine paint. For example, the International Maritime Organization (IMO) has developed guidelines for the use of antifouling coatings, which are designed to prevent the growth of marine organisms on the hulls of ships. These guidelines limit the use of harmful chemicals and require the use of environmentally friendly alternatives.

In addition to regulations, there has been a growing trend towards the use of eco-friendly marine coatings. These coatings are made from natural materials and are designed to be biodegradable, non-toxic, and sustainable. While these coatings may be more expensive than traditional marine paint, they offer a more environmentally friendly solution to protecting ships and boats from the harsh marine environment.

Overall, the environmental impact of marine paint is a complex issue that requires careful consideration and regulation. While there have been efforts to reduce the use of harmful chemicals and promote eco-friendly alternatives, more work needs to be done to ensure the long-term sustainability of the marine industry.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between marine paint and regular paint.

Marine paint is specially formulated to withstand the harsh marine environment. It is designed to provide a durable, long-lasting finish that can protect the boat from corrosion, fading, and other forms of damage. Regular paint, on the other hand, is not designed to withstand these conditions and can quickly deteriorate when exposed to the marine environment.

What kind of paint is used in marine painting?

There are different types of marine paints available, including antifouling paint, topside paint, and bottom paint. Antifouling paint is used to prevent marine growth, such as barnacles and algae, from attaching to the hull. Topside paint is used above the waterline and can be used to paint the deck, cabin, and other areas. Bottom paint is used below the waterline to protect the hull from marine growth and other forms of damage.

What is a good brand of marine paint?

There are several good brands of marine coating available, including Interlux, Pettit, and West Marine. These brands offer a range of products, including antifouling paint, topside paint, and bottom paint, that are designed to provide durable, long-lasting protection for boats in the marine environment.

How long does marine paint last?

The lifespan of marine paint can vary depending on several factors, including the type of paint, the quality of the application, and the conditions of the marine environment. Generally, a high-quality coatings can last for several years, but it may need to be reapplied every few years to maintain its protective properties.

Does marine paint need primer?

In most cases, marine paint does require a primer. The primer helps to ensure that the paint adheres properly to the surface and provides a smooth, even finish. However, there are some types of paint that are self-priming, so it is important to read the manufacturer’s instructions carefully before applying the paint.

Can you use marine paint on fiberglass boats?

Yes, marine paint can be used on fiberglass boats. However, it is important to use a paint that is specifically designed for use on fiberglass surfaces. These paints are formulated to adhere properly to fiberglass and provide the necessary protection against the marine environment.

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Help! Really Confused about Varnishes!

By Orin May 31, 2020 in Modelling Tips

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Hello All! 

I am posting as I could really do with some advice from the experts!

Essentially I am currently trying to improve my modelling, and have decided to try and use a pin wash to highlight the panel lines in the aircraft I am currently making. Before this is done I have read that you should coat the model with a gloss varnish in order to allow the wash to flow better over the model’s surface.

I have therefore been looking into buying a gloss varnish, but have been stunned by the variety on offer and am really confused as to the difference between them all. I really don't want to end up using a varnish which will melt away either my paint work or the decals.

My model is painted predominantly with Humbrol enamel paints, with some acrylic paint used on the landing gear. I was hoping to use an oil based wash to highlight the panel lines, which I would neaten up with a cotton bud dipped in white spirit (although I am open to advice on this front if you think a water based wash would be better?).

Therefore what gloss varnish would you recommend? Should I look to get Enamel or Acrylic Varnish? Also which brands are best, as I have heard that some varnishes tend to go cloudy or yellow over time?

Finally, although I need the gloss coat for applying washes I would like to have a matt finish to the aircraft. Therefore, which matt varnishes would you recommend for sealing the wash and decals and finishing off the aircraft?

Thank you in advance!

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dragonlanceHR

Brush or airbrush? Do you have problems with smells?

If you want to use a water-based wash, your clear coat should be enamel or lacquer. If you want to use oil, then go with water based or lacquer clear.

If you brush paint, then some sort of self-levelling clear (or Klear) is a better option, followed by an oil wash. Then seal it with a water base matt clear of choice.

There are multiple choices, depending where you live, regarding the current mail order situation.

Hi Dragon Lance, Thank you for your reply!

I am brush painting. I have no problem with smells.

So as I have painted mainly with enamels and plan to do an oil based wash, should I use an acrylic gloss varnish? Do you have any recommendations as to the type or brand?

Also, is it safe to use the acrylic varnish over areas of the model which I have painted with acrylic paint such as the landing gear? 

11 minutes ago, Orin said:   So as I have painted mainly with enamels and plan to do an oil based wash, should I use an acrylic gloss varnish? Do you have any recommendations as to the type or brand?

Depends what is available to you. Yes, use a gloss acrylic, if you use an enamel the solvents will can attack the oil based varnish.

For an oil wash,  white spirit is oily gunk, for a really thin wash, try zippo type lighter fuel.  Sounds like you are trying a new technique, so experiment on something first.

I use artists oils, black is too dark,  a mix of burnt umber and black works well,  though you can make a wash out of enamels, and you can thin those with lighter fuel as well. It also makes it dry really fast.

On 31/05/2020 at 12:23, Orin said: Therefore, which matt varnishes would you recommend for sealing the wash and decals and finishing off the aircraft?

Winsor and Newton Galeria has worked well, its acrylic.  A flat brush helps, as can a little water if a bit thick.

11 minutes ago, Orin said:   Also, is it safe to use the acrylic varnish over areas of the model which I have painted with acrylic paint such as the landing

Have a look at these, acrylic gloss, oil wash with lighter fuel, W&N Galeria, final weathering on matt coat

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235052380-hurricane-airfix-72nd-fabric-wing-mki- oob /

With washes and weathering, go easy, and refer to photos of the real thing, NOT other models! 

Thank you Troy, this is really helpful!

2 hours ago, Troy Smith said: Yes, use a gloss acrylic, if you use an enamel the solvents will can attack the oil based varnish.

I've done some googling and found this Winsor and Newton Galeria gloss varnish -  https://www.amazon.co.uk/Winsor-Newton-Galeria-Acrylic-Varnish/dp/B001HJN0GY . Do you think this would work as a base coat before applying oil based washes?

Also Winsor and Newton Galeria make this Matt varnish -  https://www.amazon.co.uk/Winsor-Newton-Galeria-Acrylic-Varnish/dp/B001HJLB1A .  Would this work to finish the model and seal in the wash?

29 minutes ago, Orin said: Thank you Troy, this is really helpful! I've done some googling and found this Winsor and Newton Galeria gloss varnish -  https://www.amazon.co.uk/Winsor-Newton-Galeria-Acrylic-Varnish/dp/B001HJN0GY . Do you think this would work as a base coat before applying oil based washes?   Also Winsor and Newton Galeria make this Matt varnish -  https://www.amazon.co.uk/Winsor-Newton-Galeria-Acrylic-Varnish/dp/B001HJLB1A .  Would this work to finish the model and seal in the wash?   Thank you for your help! As a noobie it is much appreciated  

I can't see why the W&N Gloss would not work, in the build link  I applied neat oils over the W&N matt Galeria, and then streaked it with lighter fuel, with no problem.  

I have not tried the gloss, so cannot guarantee this. 

Always worth trying out on scrap first.

My gloss coat was Klear, no longer available, but it was sold as a floor finish, but is basically a self levelling acrylic varnish, that is really tough, being meant for floors.

the nearest  it seems is Lakeland Quick Shine,  which is a big bottle, 800 ml

  https://www.lakeland.co.uk/20286/Quick-Shine-Floor-Finish

Note, If you have both the W&N gloss and matt, you can intermix to make satin or semi gloss as well.   

the Galeria I found was not dead flat though, fine for most planes though, as they are not dead flat matt unless really weathered. 

W&N and Klear are probably intermixable but not tried so cannot guarantee, though the W&N went over Klear with no issues.

As with anything new, test on scrap first. 

Thanks Troy, you've been really helpful!

I'll have a go with the W&N matt and gloss varnishes and post the results! Will try on a scrap kit first and then apply it to my current model.

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