o'day outlaw sailboat

Outlaw 26 O'day

The outlaw 26 o'day is a 26.0ft masthead sloop designed by philip rhodes and built in fiberglass by o'day corp. between 1965 and 1968., 80 units have been built..

The Outlaw 26 O'day is a heavy sailboat which is slightly under powered. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser.

Outlaw 26 O'day for sale elsewhere on the web:

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Review of O'Day Outlaw

Basic specs., sailing characteristics.

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 5.8 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section is reserved boat owner's changes, improvements, etc. Here you might find (or contribute with) inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what you have done.

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Info on the O'Day Outlaw??

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I am looking into buying a 1969 O'Day Outlaw, but have had a really hard time finding much info online. Has anyone had any experience with the Outlaw that they would care to share? I am looking for anything from basic specs to personal experiences (good and bad) to known issues that I should be aware of. Thanks. -Mark  

outlaw I have a outlaw and I have a friend who also has one. They are great boats that handle well and are surprizingly fast. We also both had the same problem with water in the aft compartments. In the storage area under the seats. He would find quite a bit of water after a sail and I found it all the time. I moored my boat in rougher conditions so it might of splashed in from the motor well. We also think the water may come in through the rudder post but never quite fiqured it out. The next biggest problem is the motor well. Any outboard you put in the get splashed constintly. My outboard age 10 years in one summer. It's a pain to put it in and take it out and it is a tight fit. The largest outboard I could squeeze in at the time I bought the boat was a 5 hp. A little underpowered fo a boat that size. I love the boat but I would try to put a mount off the transom for your outboard.  

Kick down with more reports about your incredible Outlaw. I want one so bad I may end up moving to the east coast from California. MORE! MORE!  

Every known picture on the internet of the Outlaw are now posted in "The Outlaw Files" photo file on the Oday Owners Yahoo Group. We're looking for MORE pictures, MORE information, and MORE OUTLAW enthusiasts! So head on over there and post YOUR pictures in "The Outlaw Files"! More than that, WE NEED AN OUTLAW WEBSITE! Anyone enthusiastic AND web savvy enough to want to spearhead that? Come on over to the Oday Owners Yahoo Group or contact me directly. I'm still actively looking to buy an OUTLAW on the west coast... that, assuming there is even one over here. Any leads of a west coast OUTLAW, please, please contact me. Almost any condition is ok. As well, if you own one over on the east coast, I might be coerced into building a trailer out there and towing one back. Let me know one way or another, but I'm NOT rich, so a derelict example is likely all I'll be able to afford. Thanks, Brian 707 477-7740  

Re 1969 Outlaw June 25, 2014 : 1969 O'DAY OUTLAW FOR SALE : 1968 OUTLAW FOR SALE; A "MUST SELL" SITUATION (nothing wrong with me or the boat though). The boat IS for sale, so the "noggin" post shown immediately below is no longer accurate. Location: Northport (Long Island) New York. So, as some of you know, the Outlaw is a classic Philip Rhodes design, built when men were men and fiberglass was fiberglass! The hull and decks are sturdy strong and stiff; they do not bend when pushed or stepped on. It was built quite deliberately with a large 8-foot cockpit, unavailable on any other Sailboat of this size (other than the Pearson Commander, I think). Constantly are people commenting on the boat's "beautiful lines" -- really -- it's like a broken record; over and over again, "What class is that? It has such beautiful lines." And, there is a good reason for it. The boat does have beautiful lines; it's a very pretty boat -- far more pretty than any other of its size. The boat can carry three sails: a rolling reefing genoa/jib, a roller reefing foresail (that I have never used; I can't imagine why anyone every would need it). And there is, of course, the main sail. Sails are all in good condition (but they could use laundering so that they are, once again, bright white). The cockpit is, of course, self-bailing, so that it is always dry as is every inch inside the cabin, always, because the boat has no leaks -- none -- not a one -- no leaks anywhere; I never find water in the bilge. (For that reason I have been unwilling, ever, to unscrew any object fastened to the deck or cabin-top. My experience on all other boats has been that doing so usually produces a leak when the object (or a new object) is replaced -- no matter what kind of caulking or water-proofing "****" I use when installing the new piece). The vessel's engine has all the advantages of an inboard and none of the disadvantages. In a properly vented inboard well (hard to find these days), there sits a 9.9 hp Evinrude (2 cycle, in perfect working order). Hence, the engine does not show; one can't see it. It starts electrically by the turn of a key (and, if necessary, it's easily startable by hand as well). Key, shift, and throttle controls are in the cockpit as they should be on any self-respecting sailboat (and as (a) they always are for sailboats with inboard engines and (b) they never are on sailboats powered by outboard -- except for this one. Hence, the engine appears (meaning it does not appear) and operates as does an inboard sailboat engine. On the other hand, it is easily accessible and easily removable (for winter storage). Furthermore no other O'Day Outlaw will accept a 9.9 HP engine because, as originally built, the engine well was too small to accommodate the lower unit of an engine that size. I have had the well modified/widened up so that it does accept the 9.9. (The boat was designed to accommodate something akin to a 6 hp Johnson "sail master." When power is needed the difference between the 6 hp and the 9.9 is significant.) In the port cockpit locker are TWO batteries connected in parallel and a built-in Guest charger. The engine, of course, charges the batteries when running and when docked, connection to shore outlet powers the charger which, in turn, keeps the batteries charged. The shore power also provides 110 volt electricity throughout the vessel. In the cockpit, too, is a twelve volt outlet so that any 12-volt device can be "plugged in" right there in the pocket. That might be a cell phone (for charging), an enormously powerful spotlight (for night sailing made, say, from an automobile headlight) a music system -- or any other 12-volt device. In the engine compartment are two six-gallon fuel tanks, which I refill once every five years or so. (Although I have not made the test, if one of the tanks is removed, the compartment might accommodate a gasoline-operated 110 volt generator (1KW probably), so that 110V would be available even at anchor.) There are two sets of cabin doors; one is a one-piece door (the one I use) newly made, but because I have used it for two years, it needs some sanding and varnishing to make it look perfect. The other set of cabin doors embodies four pieces -- newly made, never used. Inside the cabin are the usual: two quarter births and one V-berth forward; sink, pump-faucet, ice box and head. The boat comes with: (a) a 25 pound danforth anchor fastened forward, attached to 400 feet of anchor line that descends downward through the ordinary opening so that it is stored below and easily raised up when the anchor is used; (b) a large number of ropes/lines, thick, thin, short, long, (c) life jackets (of course), (d) bilge pump (never used, except when washing the inside of the cabin so that water does, then, fall into the bilge), (e) cockpit cushions, and (f) a basic set of tools. The "negatives:" (1) The cockpit combing (teak) and the rub rail (teak) need light sanding plus teak oil, although that is a cosmetic issue only. (2) The bunks need bunk cushions as well (about $500);. (3) The cabin does not have standing headroom (because of the large cockpit) so that adults must hunch over a little when attempting to stand; and (4) The vessel retains an old-style built-in marine head working perfectly, but highly illegal. It should be replaced with a self-contained one-unit head/sanitizer/holding tank, or the ordinary modern-day head with separate holding tank. The head is located at the center of the V-birth and is not enclosed except, of course, that one can close the cabin door and lock it from the inside, so that the whole cabin becomes, in effect, a closed head. However, a true enclosure for the head can be installed with relative ease. The boat was just recently hauled and uncovered so that the buyer may see and inspect the bottom. The new owner need only have the bottom painted ($475 including paint) and have the boat launched (no cost). (Once the new owner takes title, then for so long as the boat is not launched continued storage on land will cost $200 per month.) THE PRICE, TODAY (JUNE 25, 2014) IS $2,500. IT DROPS BY $100 ON MONDAY, 29 AND BY ANOTHER $100 EVERY MONDAY THEREAFTER UNTIL SOLD. FOR PICTURES AND MORE INFORMATION PLEASE CONTACT ME AT: 631-630-6274  

I am considering grabbing a 1968 Outlaw that is in shambles and rebuild her. She is actually #2 behind a very nice '74 Seafarer 24 that I am 2nd in line for. this Outlaw has been very neglected and allowed inches worth of standing water to sit in the salon. Needless-to-say, she is in very bad shape but something about her style draws me to her! BTW - The above mentioned Outlaw is no longer for sale. Taslawmed decided to keep her!!  

Hey all: I'm in the market for boat and have been perusing Craigslist ads within 5 hours drive of me. Found this in Seattle, and while looking up info on it saw that a couple of you guys are drooling quite heavily. If anyone reading this is still jonesing for an Outlaw there's one available... 1965 O'day outlaw sailboat Carlos  

If you don't have these pictures, you are welcome to use them. OUTLAW 26 (O'DAY ) Sailboat details on sailboatdata.com  

Outlaw Just FYI, I own the 1965 outlaw in Seattle. Im still looking to sell it, but its not really a great market for selling sailboats. I also have water collecting in the compartment under the outboard well. I put in two access hatches to let it breathe when it wasn't in use, but that didn't solve it. Now I've drilled a hole in the bulkhead in the very bottom to allow the water in that compartment to drain out into the compartment under the **** pit. Once it drys out, Im going to pour in some epoxy to make sure all the nooks and crannys are filled in so water will stop collecting back there. If I dont do anything about it, I'll have to replace that bulkhead. Something I dont want to do.  

Bizzyrne said: Just FYI, I own the 1965 outlaw in Seattle. Im still looking to sell it, but its not really a great market for selling sailboats. I also have water collecting in the compartment under the outboard well. I put in two access hatches to let it breathe when it wasn't in use, but that didn't solve it. Now I've drilled a hole in the bulkhead in the very bottom to allow the water in that compartment to drain out into the compartment under the **** pit. Once it drys out, Im going to pour in some epoxy to make sure all the nooks and crannys are filled in so water will stop collecting back there. If I dont do anything about it, I'll have to replace that bulkhead. Something I dont want to do. Click to expand...

Hello fellow Outlaw drivers! Indeed, I found my Outlaw, a fine example from Marta's Vineyard, and lucky for me, found in Olympia Washington. That said, it appears that there are at least TWO examples of the Outlaw on the west coast, however PLEASE ADVISE if you have seen, heard of, or have any evidence of any other example on the west coast. Interesting reading about the issues you other owners are having, I too, have a difficult to contain minimal and mysterious leakage in the aft lockers, otherwise, she is a dry boat. I'm proud to be caring for hull number 55, and prouder still that I've located all but one owner all the way back to the new purchase in 1967 from Milford Boat Works in Connecticut. She is "Renegade", and sitting pretty in Sausalito right now. Any other Outlaw people out there?  

Hello to All: I wish to sell my O'Day outlaw, located in NorthPort, Long Island. It is, now, in the water (covered). I is equipped with main and roller furled genoa (which, because of the roller furling acts, also, as a working jib and storm jib). It carries an Evinrude 2-cycle 9.9 HP -- in perfect working order -- electric start,with shift, choke, and throttle controlsin the cockpit. It has, also, two new wooden cabin doors (one of them a set of four slats, for which the companionway was originally designed, and one a single piece, designed, also, to fit perfectly into the companionway tracks. Cockpit combing is teak and needs refinishing, as does the teak "rubrail" that runs forward and aft along the sides of the deck.It has a true marine head (illegal, however. Legality would require the installation of a holding tank or sanitation system). In the port-side cockpit seat compartment there sit two batteries,a built-in charger, and a "main switch" with three settings. The charger accepts 120 volt shore power, so that batteries are always fully charged, if the vessel is kept at a slip. If it is kept at a mooring and the batteries should wane, one need only start the outboard by hand, with its auxiliary pull-start mechanism. The outboard's charger will then charge the batteries. I would love to sell the boat before I commit to summer storage (on April 15.) Theodore Silver MD: 631-630-2274  

November 10, 2013 Hello to All (AGAIN): I wish to sell my O'Day outlaw, located in NorthPort, Long Island. It is, now, in the water (covered). I is equipped with main and roller furled genoa (which, because of the roller furling acts, also, as a working jib and storm jib). It carries an Evinrude 2-cycle 9.9 HP -- in perfect working order -- electric start,with shift, choke, and throttle controlsin the cockpit. It has, also, two new wooden cabin doors (one of them a set of four slats, for which the companionway was originally designed, and one a single piece, designed, also, to fit perfectly into the companionway tracks. Cockpit combing is teak and needs refinishing, as does the teak "rubrail" that runs forward and aft along the sides of the deck.It has a true marine head (illegal, however. Legality would require the installation of a holding tank or sanitation system). In the port-side cockpit seat compartment there sit two batteries,a built-in charger, and a "main switch" with three settings. The charger accepts 120 volt shore power, so that batteries are always fully charged, if the vessel is kept at a slip. If it is kept at a mooring and the batteries should wane, one need only start the outboard by hand, with its auxiliary pull-start mechanism. The outboard's charger will then charge the batteries. I would love to sell the boat before I commit to summer storage (on April 15.) Theodore Silver MD: 631-630-2274 $4,500 631-630-6274  

Great looking boat  

I sailed one in Maine two summers ago. an 80-year-old friend of mine and I went out from the protected water into the outer ocean. She was very sturdy. We could basically set our sails and power through anything. When gusts would hit, she laid over smoothly and kept up a good steady track. She was good close to the wind And made for a wonderful fun day of sailing. I don’t think we had to let the main sheet out once. It’s a super solid boat and I’d like to buy one myself.  

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o'day outlaw

• Thread starter pat
• Start date Oct 19, 2001
• Oday Owner Forums
• Ask An Oday Owner

I recently purchased an O'Day Outlaw, 26' - built in CN in 1967. I can't find any specs for it. I need to purchase new sails, lines, etc. Can anyone help?Pat  

Justin - O'day Owners' Web

Outlaw Pat -here is a snipet about the outlaw. Hit the link for more detail.My boat was made in Brampton Ontario, Canada and I have met the builder. He went on to form Northern Yachts in Ajax. There are quite anumber of Northerns sailing in this area. The Oday Outlaw was redesigned and had a Fin Keel added to replace the full keel and that boatbecame the Northern 25. There is another Oday Outlaw at the Oshawa Yacht Club but I don't know its age or or hull No. When the boat wasredesigned, a foot was taken off the stern and the cabin space was enlarged. The boat also got a lot lighter as they had found out at that timejust how strong fiberglass was and they didn't have to use as much lay-up as they were previously to get a strong boat. Boats of the age thatmine is tend to be very strong and although heavy for a 26 footer, she is very responsive and fast. The overall design is similar to that of anAlberg 30 if you are familiar with that boat. There is a reverse transom and the outboard sits in a well covered by a lazarrete. The whole picturelooks very clean. Because of the weight and hull design (Wineglass shape) the boat is very seakind and does not pond even in the heaviestseas. The baby sister of the outlaw was the cruising version of the Oday Tempest.  

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O'Day Outlaw 26 - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for O'Day Outlaw 26 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more.

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• Sailboat Guide

O'Day 26

O'Day 26 is a 25 ′ 7 ″ / 7.8 m monohull sailboat designed by Raymond Hunt (C.R. Hunt & Assoc.) and built by O'Day Corp. between 1983 and 1985.

• 2 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 3 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 4 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 5 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 6 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 7 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 8 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 9 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 10 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 11 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 12 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 13 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 14 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 15 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View
• 16 / 16 Beavercreek, OH, US 1985 O'Day 26 $8,000 USD View

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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