ranger 20 sailboat data

Review of Ranger 20

Basic specs., sailing characteristics.

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Ranger 20 is 2.75, indicating that this boat would not be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 5.4 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Ranger 20 is about 78 kg/cm, alternatively 439 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 78 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 439 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

What is SA/D (Sail Area Displacement ratio)?

Maintenance

Are your sails worn out? You might find your next sail here: Sails for Sale

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section shown boat owner's changes, improvements, etc. Here you might find inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what to look for.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Ranger 20 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

Sail to Summit

This blog is about my two main passions in life, sailing and climbing and a few random adventures in between. My sailing stories are based on my interest in pocket cruisers, pocket cruising, and more specifically my kent ranger 20 sailboat. My climbing posts may be about anything from a day at the crag to a multiday alpine adventure. My main motivation for writing this blog is so that i can read it when im old! Thanks for checking in!

Wednesday, January 1, 2014

Kent ranger 20 sailboat cruise/camp.

8 comments:

Thank you for sharing. My dad bought a Ranger in 1974. Before that he built a wooden wayfarer, (a 16' foot sailboat). He lived in Kent, WA. We did a lot of racing with the wayfarer, and he continued to race when he bought the Ranger 20. In fact he won the Ranger National Championships 4 times I believe. We also cruised a lot. We cruised Barkley Sound (Vancouver, B.C.), and Desolation Sound, off the east side of Vancouver next to inland B.C. We did this a few times and it was incredible. We basically lived off the land, salmon, ling cod, yellow eye rockfish, and other types of bottom fish, as well as clams. We also cruised the San Juans. But we preferred Desolation Sound. There were less people and it was more adventuresome ( stronger currents, etc) Every night we would anchor, set a shoreline and bow anchor. We had a little dinghy so we could explore all the shoreline, clam dig, etc. It was a great time. Memories I will never forget. Three of us slept on the boat every night. I would strongly recomend this to anyone with a Ranger 20'. Just be sure to have a marine chart that is detailed. There are some places where you can only pass on slack tides, the currents rip. You trailer up to Lund, B.C. Past Vancouver and you have to take a couple of ferries. You put in at Lund and then go where you want. I would not recommend going to Campbell River Channel. The currents are very strong. I would say you would need at least a 10 hp motor to be safe. We had a british seagul, I think only a couple of horse power, and we could have used more. There were times when we were barely making headway against some of the tides, and currents. Feel free to contact me if you wish. Greg Wills. Email, [email protected]

Hi, Great posts. Where were you able to find a new dodger?

any chance anyone has a mast for a Ranger 20? I would love to keep this sweet boat in the sailing world instead of scrapping the boat! so sad... everything else is fine but a broken mast. 801-860-7658 Mark

Thankyou so much I realy might want one Please post more details of your pocket cruising Thanks for sharing the goodstuf..

go ahead and call me at 801-860-7658. Mark

I really enjoyed your blog. It convinced me that a Ranger 20 is exactly what I need. So I bought one! I also found a Yahoo group for the boats. It has lots of good information about these wondeful pocket cruisers. https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/KentRanger20Boats/info

Hello, we have a Ranger Sailboat Owners facebook group: Search "Kent Ranger Sailboat Owners" If you still have the boat, hope to see you there!

RANGER 20 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of RANGER 20. Built by undefined and designed by Raymond Richards, the boat was first built in 1972. It has a hull type of Keel/Cbrd. and LOA is 6.1. Its sail area/displacement ratio 23.37. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by undefined, runs on undefined.

RANGER 20 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about RANGER 20 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, contributions, who designed the ranger 20.

RANGER 20 was designed by Raymond Richards.

When was RANGER 20 first built?

RANGER 20 was first built in 1972.

How long is RANGER 20?

RANGER 20 is 4.88 m in length.

What is mast height on RANGER 20?

RANGER 20 has a mast height of 6.86 m.

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Ranger 20 - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for Ranger 20 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more.

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Looking for ranger 20 info

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I have looking for a small boat for daysailing in open water and ran across the Kent Ranger 20. It has a keel/centerboard so should be stiff, but not too hard to trailer launch. It also has positive floatation. I do not need a high performance boat, just something safe and reasonable. It may spend some time on a mooring, so having some ballast in the keel to keep it upright would be a plus, with the centerboard component helping with upwind sailing. The cabin has a strange half open design, not a problem for me as I have a larger boat for cruising. Has anyone had some personal experience with this boat? Any thoughts on ease of trailering and ramp launching? Thanks.  

Ranger 20 Great little boat! I've owned two of them over the years in between a Catalina 25. The boat is rigged beautifully for singlehanding and is easy to trailer and launch. Draft about 18" with the centerboard retracted. The cuddy cabin with dodger provides good weather protection. My wife and I spent two weeks aboard in Desolation Sound. My first Ranger 20 won the class National Championship, I believe in 1973.  

I currently own a Ranger 20 and have it moored for the winter at Leschi. They are great boats and very fun to sail, and travel in. Look up the KentRanger20 group here and join. KentRanger20Boats : KentRanger20Boats Good group and several active members. Best place to look for a boat also. Good luck. Kary SV Mariah #49080  

Does anyone know how I can get rigging instructions - I just bought an old Ranger 20 and am new to the boat? Thanks  

Re: Ranger 20 where can I buy a dodger for my ranger 20  

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Advise for Ranger 20

• Thread starter kentchris
• Start date Jan 13, 2019
• Brand-Specific Forums
• Ranger Boats (WA)

I just purchased a Ranger 20 11/18. Hull #194. Looks like a great boat. I am going through the boat. cleaning it up and checking it out. I have just started on the electrical (very basic). The mast light didn't work so I went to change it out with an LED light and am having problems replacing old cut and worn out wiring (won't pull through). I assume it is attached at the top of mast but am not sure how to access/remove the top of the mast. Does anyone know what brand mast was used on R 20. Also any general info links on R20's would be appreciated. Thanks Kent  

Is the mast "up" or is have you taking it "down"? Pictures would help.  

Mast is down. I will post pics in an hour or two.  

There should be some form of strain relief for the wire(s). That can come in a variety of methods. It might have been wrapping around a post inside the top of the masthead, or it might have been some other method. You should be able to see something. You might try shing a bright light in from above or below. Can you pull the wire "up" at all?  

New I can't pull the wire up from top or down from bottom. It appears to be loose looking up from the bottom, but I can't see more than half way up. Does this mast head look familiar.  

Attachments

When you say "worn out wiring", are the conductors bad? You could probably remove the top assembly by drilling out the rivets. You could re drill and add two two wires to the masthead light. Are you ready to start surgery, or do you need to?  

The wires were cut at both ends near where they entered the mast at the bottom and where they exited at the top. The idea of redrilling on the top plate and then rethreading wire, (while leaving old wire) seems the most straight forward. If I did drill out the 4 rivets, could I tap the holes and replace them with 4 bolts? Or would new rivets be required. I don't have rivets that large.  

I think I'd avoid drilling out the rivets. If the wires are otherwise okay (i.e., the insulation is good and the copper is not corroded) you might try to simply extend them. You can always replace them later. An LED will draw less amps.  

Thanks. That might be the best option. I will see what I can do.  

IF the wires are "good", then use marine grade wire and crimps. It's not "perfect", but you're sailing on fresh water lakes in modest season. The wires section to look at first are those exposed to the sun at the masthead. Is the insulation sun baked or is it still sound? While you're looking at the masthead, make sure the sheaves are rotating freely. Check the spinnaker /jib block attachments, etc. If everything is sound, then I'd not be drilling out the rivets unless you have to.  

kentchris said: I just purchased a Ranger 20 11/18. Hull #194. Looks like a great boat. I am going through the boat. cleaning it up and checking it out. I have just started on the electrical (very basic). The mast light didn't work so I went to change it out with an LED light and am having problems replacing old cut and worn out wiring (won't pull through). I assume it is attached at the top of mast but am not sure how to access/remove the top of the mast. Does anyone know what brand mast was used on R 20. Also any general info links on R20's would be appreciated. Thanks Kent Click to expand

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• Sailboat Guide

1973 Kent Ranger Ranger 20

• Description

Seller's Description

Legendary sailboat originally built 1973 in Kent, WA, fully restored in 2010 and well maintained since then. The Kent Ranger 20 is a popular boat and has a very proud fanbase. Only 600 were built over a span of 13 years. This is #153.

Ideal for inner bay family day sails like the SF Bay area. Its got a roomy cockpit with plenty of space for 4. It features an innovative fixed cuddy (cabin) with inbuilt storage bin seats. Perfect for wary family members to enjoy some wind protection while still being in on the action. Theres a cushioned seating/sleeping area and even a built in picnic table to lift up.

Shes very balanced on the helm, responsive, yet forgiving and I think its a fantastic trainer for sailing beginners. Completely dry in 15 knots nose wind and she can be sailed single handedly.

Hull and top is of outstanding quality, solid fiberglass-reinforced plastic throughout, completely repainted, new cushions plus new rigging - all in 2010. Shes got the original Evinrude 6 2-stroke engine which still works like charm. New bottom paint late 2018 by KKMI.

She comes with a newer main sail #40, original jib, genoa, a-sail (asymmetric spinnaker), anchor, custom covers for all teak details, plus other accessories. Connect a standard car battery and youll have cabin/anchor/runnings lights, speedometer, depth sounder and even a bilge pump.

Showings available from June 10th.

If you live in the North Bay: Shes currently berthed (docked) at a very attractive $250/month in Strawberry (near Tiburon) at Richardson Bay. It’s a fantastic sailing ground with predictable winds and top-notch views on SF, Alcatraz and Golden Gate. Lease transfer is available if you want to keep her at this location.

If you want to haul her away: The Kent Ranger 20 is a mid-size trailer sailer. Its easy to set-up/rig especially because the mast raises aft (from the front towards the back), so shrouds and forestay can be left attached. No trailer is provided but youll find many trailer models which will fit.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Later built by Intermountain Design of Utah, USA.

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• Sailboat Reviews

Surely one of the most popular and versatile midget racers of the modern era, this Mull design has devotees all over the land. You can get them cheap, and cruise 'em, too.

Designed by Californian Gary Mull in 1971, the Ranger 23 was influenced by the Junior Offshore Group (JOG), a forerunner of the Midget Ocean Racing Club (MORC, which evolved to MORA, which is now nearly extinct as an association). MORA rules provided designers, builders, and performance-oriented sailors with a venue in which many of the most mannerly, small-sized performance cruisers of the time could compete on a near-level playing field.

At the time, Jack Jensen, founder of Jensen Marine, was enjoying great success building Cal boats and making race history with the Cal 40 and Cal 27. However, to appeal to East Coast buyers, he formed Ranger Yachts (which actually were built in Costa Mesa, California), and commissioned Mull to design the new lines. Mull’s star was on the rise at the time, partially because of the success of the Santana 22, which he considered one of his most successful, and favorite, creations.

Cal and Ranger were eventually sold to Bangor Punta in 1973, and production of Cal boats was moved to Florida. A victim of a downturn in the industry, the Ranger line folded in 1978. In 1983, Bangor Punta sold both companies to Lear Siegler, shortly before their complete demise.

The company built six Rangers in sizes ranging from 22 to 37 feet.

The R-23 had an excellent production run, with 739 hulls built between 1971 and 1978. The boat is a sporty looker whose design is as appealing 30 years after her launch as when introduced. She carries a high-aspect sailplan and presents a fine bow entry and racy lines, especially compared to her contemporaries. Viewed from abeam, she appears proportionately shapely with a smoothly rising sheer, visually appealing cabintop, and long, narrow ports that hint at performance. Though not designed to meet a measurement rule, her lines were influenced by the CCA and, eventually, IOR racing rules.

In a lengthy epistle evaluating the boat, penned for the R-23 owners association shortly prior to death in 1993, Mull described the design as being “a little ship capable of sailing anywhere in the world safely, and swiftly.”

Her sailplan was the subject of many changes. Of the mast, Mull wrote, “In those days I was able to design each of the masts for Rangers for specific designs rather than having to pick from stock extrusions.” The same held true for chainplates, spreader roots, and mastheads.

Though offered with a rig designed to sail in the prevailing 15-20 knot Pacific northwesterlies, a tall rig was offered for sailors in light-air regions. In its standard configuration, the mast stood 27.7 feet above the deck. The tall rig added two feet to its height, with a corresponding increase in sail area.

Eventually, “when the IOR was introduced, we produced a revised plan with a shorter mainsail foot to qualify for the Quarter Ton class.” The boat sailed with some success in this class.

The single set of spreaders on the beefy, deck-stepped masthead rig are supported by 3/16″, 1×19 stainless steel headstay and upper shroud, and 5/32″, 1×19 backstay and lower shroud. A typical comment among long-time owners is that the rig is overbuilt; no failures have been reported by owners responding to a PS survey.

The deck-stepped mast “was a consequence of wanting a clear access through the interior.” While accomplishing that objective, the design compromises the amount of compression an owner can develop on stays while attempting to improve sail shape.

Underwater appendages are “standard trapezoidal profiles with standard NACA sections.” The keel carries 1,500 pounds of lead ballast. The spade rudder is mounted on a stainless steel rudder post. Owners describe the boat as providing excellent windward performance, and typically carry a 150% genoa with a full mainsail until breezes exceed 15-18 knots.

“On deck our concept is most noticeable because it has a proper cockpit with coamings, seats, and all. We were designing a boat for the occasional day or weekend sail, and a boat that could be taken to sea for extended periods.” She’ll seat four in relative comfort, even with a tiller occupying the center of the footwell.

“We didn’t feel compelled to offer standing headroom as we were fairly certain that the owners were smart enough to sleep lying down and would probably have the good sense to sit down when they went below for a meal. We also assumed that people making long passages in a boat of this size would probably be pretty good friends, and sited the head where it would be convenient and stable, though not so private as might be appropriate for a larger boat.”

There’s 5’6″ of headroom in the cabin, and 6’6″ settees that convert to berths. Creature comforts include a tilt-away dinette table, and a 25-pound icebox that doubles as a companionway step.

The galley, located at the junction of the saloon and V-berth, is, of course, pretty minimal. It consists of a sink located to port, optional two-burner alcohol stove to starboard, two drawers, and a storage cubby. (Note that in the accommodations drawing below, from the original sales brochure, the stove and sink appear on sides opposite where they ended up.)

Again in Mull’s words, “We didn’t even have, let alone feel compelled to offer, three- and four-burner gas stoves with oven and lighting system. We figured that one-dish meals and a pot of coffee made much more sense for a boat of this size.”

That’s certainly true—the set-up will allow good sleeping and just enough civilized eating during a long coastal passage to keep the crew content (as long as they’re within a day or two of a sheltered anchorage, a shower, and a meal ashore).

Space in the bow is occupied by a V-berth that provides a 6’2″ sleeping area and two dressers. The toilet was originally a self-contained “Handihead” with four-gallon capacity and waste discharge. One owner who replaced the original told us that the space is large enough for a more modern appliance.

Mull’s concept of light camping accommodations stands in contrast to Bill Crealock’s vision for the Dana 24 (PS December 2001), a beamier, significantly heavier, more crewfriendly yacht with an enclosed head that Crealock envisioned as carrying a crew of two around the world in “safety and comfort.”

The idea of extended cruising in a boat less than about 30 feet isn’t appealing to some sailors, but it can be great fun, as long as everyone gets along and there are good routines in place for how to move around the boat and do things in harmony.

This Ranger is spacious enough for sailing and sleeping with, say, a couple and two kids on short cruises, notwithstanding the lack of privacy.

Construction The hull and deck were designed using what were then considered state-of-the-art methods. Mull said that his initial agreement with Jensen included wide latitude in stipulating construction materials and methods, and that Ranger Yachts would provide quality production. In this case, the West Coast designer-builder combination works to the advantage of owners, since boats were expected to withstand higher stresses encountered on the Pacific near San Francisco than those in Southern California or the Chesapeake, for instance.

Interestingly, the most common shortcomings in the construction of the boats are caused by adhesives used to bond major components. Though the best available at the time, they pale by today’s standards.

Built during the adolescence of the fiberglass era, the hull and deck were constructed using Lloyd’s Provisional Rules for GRP vessels. Lloyd’s formula specified use of an all chopped mat structure; Ranger laid up alternating layers of mat and woven roving in the hull.

The deck was a sandwiched balsa core laminate employing a honeycomb method developed by Hexcel Corporation. At the time, Hexcel was cutting a wide swath in the Alpine skiing community with a similar laminate that produced lighter, stronger skis. Today’s boats are constructed with lighter, unidirectional fabrics; nonetheless, Ranger’s methods produced sturdy sections. Bulkheads were bonded to the hull, and the interior is a fiberglass pan.

An annual inspection by owners or thorough survey by potential buyers should be made of the mast step, hull-deck joint, keel bolts, and chainplates, as Mull noted.

A by-product of the attempt to produce creature comforts is that the mast step “is probably the biggest source of grief,” Mull wrote. That’s not a desirable trait in a boat advertised as being fit for offshore work, though not a fatal flaw.

The mast step is a 6061-T6 aluminum fabrication with fasteners connected to the deck structure intended to be bedded in flexible waterproof bedding compound. “Unfortunately,” said Mull, “the bedding compound on many boats has become dry and brittle and water can find its way through the bolt hole in the deck core.” A by-product might be soggy balsa or, in the worst case, rot.

In extreme cases, the fix involves removing the mast step columns and affected areas and replacing deck core with a new beam and laminate. Though more than a minor inconvenience, the problem would not prevent us from considering the purchase of a boat with this ailment.

Failures of adhesives and the large number of bolts installed through the toerail at the hull-deck joint also may produce leaks. In a worst-case scenario it would be necessary to remove the toerail and stanchions, elevate the deck from the hull, remove the old adhesive, and replace it with today’s materials. No small chore.

Similar problems may occur with chainplates that have been neglected for extended periods of time. Many owners report the need to rebed chainplates every couple of years. Not surprisingly, that predicament is still encountered by the owners of many newer, production boats.

Finally, leaks through ballast bolts have been reported by some owners. Mull’s recommended fix was a re-bed of keel and bolts with an elastic bedding compound to alleviate stress created by movement at the hull-keel joint.

Performance Since her deck layout is as simple as the boat is small, she’s easy to sail single- or doublehanded, and race with a crew of three.

Standard gear included external mainsail and jib halyards, Barient winches on the mast and in the cockpit, and Schaefer sail track, blocks, and cleats. Retrofitting additional halyards is as simple as adding external blocks at the masthead or, for the more sophisticated, adding sheaves and running halyards inside the mast. Safety gear includes bow and stern pulpits and 24″ tall stanchions fitted with a single lifeline.

A split backstay and racing package with spinnaker gear were the only options offered initially.

Computer-generated polar predictions indicate that the 23 stacks up well against similar-sized boats through a range of wind angles and wind speeds. As for top-end jets, as Mull said, “There’s no such thing as maximum hull speed,” except a theoretical rule of thumb that may apply to powering on flat water. In that environment, he predicted a boatspeed of 5.5 knots. In 10 knots of breeze under the same conditions, speed would fall in a range of 4 to 6 knots. Once the boat gets out in more wind or bigger waves, the hull begins to plane and surf; at that point the boat can cover a lot of distance between breakfast and suppertime—and it makes the racing exciting.

Conclusions It would be nice to see Ranger 23s organized again into one-design fleets all over the land, but in any case it’s good to know they’re out there racing PHRF, and that, like greyhounds retired from the rabbit-chase at the racetrack, they do well as family friends.

The R-23 can be considered a legitimate cruising boat, within the obvious physical limits of a short waterline and small quarters. To expand a bit on what was said earlier, small, simple boats like this can be ideal “express campers” for young families and couples. They can be bought for little money, fixed up as much or as little as wallet and skills allow, and don’t cost much to keep around.

Despite the Ranger’s age, it benefits from being designed on the cusp of an era when traditional, full-keeled cruisers were being replaced by sloops with more modern underbodies and appendages that produced significant improvements in performance. The hull and major structures are sound, aside from the aforementioned problems associated with adhesives that have deteriorated.

These Rangers were built before the day when vinylester resin was used in hull laminates, and some owners report the presence of dime-sized blisters that require inspection or repair. The boat does not have a reputation of suffering from chronic deficiencies that demand total bottom replacements.

Given a thorough survey, we think the R-23 would be a great candidate for a couple or family who might be new to the sport, or who are stepping up from a dinghy or daysailor. The boat was offered for $5,450 in 1971. Expect to pay $3,500 up to as much as $10,000 for a used boat, depending upon condition—if you can find one.

Arvel Gentry, the Boeing engineer who rocked the world of sailing decades ago with the facts about foils, lift, fluid circulation, and what makes sailboats go, maintains the Ranger 23 Owners and Class Association at www.ranger23.com.

Also With This Article Click here to view “Used Boat Price HistoryRanger 23 (1972 model).” Click here to view “Owner’s Comments.”

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