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 The Heron Dinghy Class Association 1953-2023 Celebrating 70 years  of the HDCA.  

Buying a Heron Memem

You can purchase a brand new Heron in FRP or composite from Butler Boats. Please contact them directly www.butlerboats.biz for more information.

BUILD YOUR OWN

The Heron Dinghy always had home building in mind. If you are interesting in building your own and many people with a garage, some spare time and a will to succeed do. You can purchase the plans directly from us at the association. If you do wish to set off on your own build adventure, you will also get one year’s Heron Association Membership and we will issue you with your own sail number. The Heron Association members will also be able to help you with any technical advice. If this of interest please use the contact us page. The link below also provides guidance on what your build options are. 

Building a Heron Download

Heron Rigs Download

Heron Tech Book

SECOND HAND

Like many Dinghies, you will see second hand Herons come up quite regularly on popular market/bidding websites (you know who we mean) and dedicated second hand boat websites. This is often a good way into Heron Sailing and boats in good/reasonable condition can be purchased cost effectively.  We also list boats for sale here.

Heron 211   Click here for more information. 

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• Practical Boat Owner's Reader to Reader

How to rig a 12 foot Heron sailboat

• Thread starter Biphasic
• Start date 8 Dec 2012
• 10 Dec 2012

ningcompoop

Hi, I've owned a couple of herons in the past but it's quite difficult to describe how to go about rigging one (and I couldn't) without illustration. Have you tried contacting the class association: http://www.heron-dinghy.org.uk/ There's still an active class association, they have a load of information available, some through the website and I found them very helpful in the past. Also, if you've never sailed a dinghy before, I'd strongly advise you take somebody with a little experience with you the first time you go out. The heron is a safe, stable little dinghy, as dinghies go, but if you end up in the water, in the middle of winter (when many dinghy sailors are tucked up nice and warm, in front of the fire at home), you may struggle to convince even yourself that boating can be fun!  

Well-known member

Ahhh.....Heron...my first boat (back in 1962)! Great little dinghy for pottering and learning. Sounds like yours is the gunter rig, so very simlar 'systems' (that sounds a bit grand) to the Mirror. Difficult to describe in a few words how to set it up, but very easy once you know how. Loads of links from Google: http://www.google.co.uk/search?sour...___GB416&redir_esc=&ei=wSXGUOLJJ_KT0QWhhYGoBQ  

If it's a two-piece mast, it is probably very similar to a Mirror dinghy. Basically, the lower section of the mast is rigged in the boat, the top section is hauled up with the sail. It's known as a 'gunter' or 'gunther' rig. The Mirror class association has some diagrams on its website, e.g. http://www.ukmirrorsailing.com/imag...sic_rigging_guide_with_gunter_rig_diagram.pdf There is other info on their website. Welcome to the forum by the way, there are quite a few dinghy sailors of all sorts on here, but there are even more on the Yachts and Yachting forum. There are also helpful people in CVDRA, the classic and vintage dinghy racing association. Hope that helps? Some things to put into Google anyway! Where are you based?  

lw395 said: If it's a two-piece mast, it is probably very similar to a Mirror dinghy. Basically, the lower section of the mast is rigged in the boat, the top section is hauled up with the sail. It's known as a 'gunter' or 'gunther' rig. The Mirror class association has some diagrams on its website, e.g. http://www.ukmirrorsailing.com/imag...sic_rigging_guide_with_gunter_rig_diagram.pdf There is other info on their website. Welcome to the forum by the way, there are quite a few dinghy sailors of all sorts on here, but there are even more on the Yachts and Yachting forum. There are also helpful people in CVDRA, the classic and vintage dinghy racing association. Hope that helps? Some things to put into Google anyway! Where are you based? Click to expand...

AntarcticPilot

• The bottom part of the mast stands on a small socket on the foredeck, and is held upright by three wires, on going to the bow of the boat and one to each side.
• The jib (the small traingular sail) is pulled up the wire from the bow to the top of the mast using a rope that runs through a pulley at the top of the mast. It has two ropes, from the back corner, one either side, to control it.
• The Main sail is attached to the gaff along the top and the boom along the bottom. The boom is attached to the mast near the bottom; the gaff slides up and down the mast and is fastened to it with a pair of jaws. You pull it up with another rope through a pulley at the top of the mast. There is a rope from the back end of the boom to control the sail.
• 12 Dec 2012

We've got a gunter-rigged Heron. As others have been said, lovely, forgiving, stable little boats. The top part of the mast should have some wooden jaws on it which fit round the lower bit of the mast. Across the "mouth" of the jaws there is probably a bit of string with some wooden beads on it, is that the case with yours? The insides of the jaws might be lined with leather or canvas. About half way along that "stick" there would be an eye, which you would attach the main halyard to. As has been said, the "top half" of the sail goes in the slot on the underside of this stick. You then hoist it on the main halyard and it pulls the stick almost vertical (in effect, doubling the height of the mast). Could maybe take some photos if it's not tipping it down at the weekend if you're still stuck.  

Fear not mon brave. I made this series of pics for a guy who bought my Heron. Each file name tells you what you are doing in the pic. Click on the link. That opens a directory. Just click on each link in turn in the directory. (click on the "Back" button in your browser to return to the directory)  

• 13 Dec 2012

Robert Wilson

Lakesailor said: Fear not mon brave. I made this series of pics for a guy who bought my Heron. Each file name tells you what you are doing in the pic. Click on the link. That opens a directory. Just click on each link in turn in the directory. (click on the "Back" button in your browser to return to the directory) Click to expand...

Biphasic said: I have just bought my wife a secondhand 12 foot Heron sailboat for her birthday. We both are completly new to this and are looking forward to learning how to sail using this little boat as a platform into buying a bigger boat once we have some experience under our belt. We are booked in for lessons but not till the end of January 2013 and we were hoping to go out on one of the nearby small lakes to play with it over our Christmas break, but we are struggling on how to set it up It seems to have a two peice wooden mast, with regards to the rigging there are ropes everywhere. it has two sails the main one and a smaller one. I have got the first part of the mast set up on the boat and have got the boom on but that is as far as I have been able to get. I have spent a whole day today:confused trying to work it out but with no luck. I would trully apreciate it if there was anyone out there that might be able to help me with some advise on how to set this lovely little thing up ready for a sail. Kind Regards Greg Click to expand...

Aaaah. My first boat in the 1960's, Heron no.119. Don't need a bottlescrew on the forestay...bit of string is fine...forestay only there to stop the mast falling down when the jib is not hoisted, that way the jib luff is kept as taut as poss when going to windward.  

mickywillis

If the OP wishes to reply to his request with his location, then if he is near me in Epsom, Surrey, or near Langstone Harbour,I'd be happy to go through it with him. We have Heron No 8119 a GRP one with gunter rig. Sails great, very safe with the inbuilt bouyancy and is good as a first boat, but can be developed into a nice fun racing boat (to get you started)  

I'm guessing that he will not be able to respond until the Mods have approved him as he only joined on the 8th and only has 1 post.  

Lakesailor said: I'm guessing that he will not be able to respond until the Mods have approved him as he only joined on the 8th and only has 1 post. Click to expand...

VicS said: his post was dated 8th Dec. That was Saturday ( morning) so it would not have been moderated until sometime Monday. There's a good chance he gave up with these forums when his post failed to materialise and there were no responses when he last visited on Monday afternoon Click to expand...

Active member

Biphasic said: ...We both are completly new to this ... hoping to go out on one of the nearby small lakes to play with it over our Christmas break... Click to expand...

We are much more hardy in the Northern Hemisphere.  

• 14 Dec 2012

Lakesailor said: We are much more hardy in the Northern Hemisphere. Click to expand...

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• Sailboat Guide

Heron is a 11 ′ 3 ″ / 3.4 m monohull sailboat designed by Jack Holt and built by Butler Boats and Dinghy Sports starting in 1950.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

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Reader Built Boats

Flat-Bottomed Skiff HERON

A new Blake-built boat

From Issue   February 2019

B oatbuilding is in Nick Blake’s blood. He’s the fifth generation of Blakes to build at least one boat since the Blakes settled in Mississippi in the 1830s. Not long after he launched his 16′ Whitehall, CURLEW, he began mulling over building another boat. He and an old high-school friend had chartered a boat to go fishing off the Gulf Coast. The trip rekindled his interest in fishing—in his teen years he’d fished the Florida coast in OTTER, a 16′ flatiron skiff that he and his father, Daniel, had built from pine boards. It was powered by a 5-hp Johnson outboard, which provided enough speed to get to and from the fishing ground faster and more reliably than sailing or rowing could. CURLEW wasn’t well suited to outboard power, so a new boat was in order.

The bottom was planked fore-and-aft with seams backed up by battens.

Nick set his sights on a larger version of OTTER, long and slender, easily driven, capable of cruising at 10 knots while carrying 600 lbs. He enlisted his father, who had many more boats to his credit, to help design HERON, as the new boat would be called. The two spent the summer of 2017 studying flat-bottomed skiff designs for inspiration and borrowed elements from Pete Culler’s Long John and William Atkin’s Ration and XLNC . With the shape they wanted in mind, Nick and Daniel got to work, starting with a quarter-scale lofting of what would be a 20′6″ skiff.

HERON was built upside down, but instead of building the hull around molds supported on a ladder frame, the Blakes made the permanent frames long and fastened their ends to the shop floor. All of the lumber for the boat came from trees grown on their land and was sawn into flitches with their bandsaw mill. Most of the boat was sassafras; the shoe protecting the bottom was done with locust for its durability, and the stem and trim were walnut for its rich color.

Patrick and Andrew take a critical look at the work done by their elders.

The sides were done in lapstrake on jogged frames. The bottom was planked fore-and-aft with batten seams, as Atkin had indicated for his Ration. Nick and Daniel had done plywood and cross-planked bottoms with previous boats, and Nick remembered that OTTER, with her cross-planked bottom, leaked after spending time out of the water and he had to soak the boat for a few hours to get the seams closed up before launching. Plywood bottoms, of course, eliminated the seams, but would be best protected by fiberglass and epoxy, materials Nick preferred to avoid. The batten-seam construction promised a watertight, traditional hull.

Nick and Daniel install trim as the boat nears completion in the shop they share.

Nick also remembered that OTTER was never in good trim when he took her out alone. Without a passenger in the bow to counter his weight and that of the motor in its narrow stern, the boat would squat and lift the bow out of the water. A wider transom would have helped, but “fat transoms,” Nick says, “are a curse of outboard motorboats, and their owners for that matter.” HERON was built with a well to bring the motor’s weight forward. To use a narrow stern and keep the buoyancy surrounding the motor as high as possible, Nick built the slot aft of the well quite narrow, wide enough for the motor’s lower unit to kick up, but too slim to allow steering with the motor. A rudder built into the aft end of the well would take care of the steering. The rudderpost runs inside the transom and is capped with a quadrant that takes the steering lines.

The longer lever is a whipstaff for steering; the shorter one is the throttle. Coming up through the thwart is a knob for the shifter. The arrangement takes up much less space than a wheel mounted on a console.

Placing the helm at the center thwart moved the pilot’s weight forward, a second measure to keep the boat in trim. The steering lines from the rudder are connected to a whipstaff, a similar smaller lever controls the throttle, and a knob set in the thwart controls the shifter.

The rudder occupies the aft end of the motor well. This particular iteration didn’t work as expected. The sixth iteration did.

Nick and the boys get HERON up and running on the oxbow lake near their home.

All of the Blake-built boats get their first trials on a small oxbow lake near the family home. During HERON’s first outing, it quickly became clear that the rudder wasn’t up to the demands of the boat. The hard chines at the stern and the immersed edges in the motor-well were great for tracking, but they resisted turning. Nick tried a half dozen different rudder blades, varying both size and shape. The ones that worked best were the ones that extended the deepest, but that made them vulnerable to submerged objects. The solution was to make a long blade that could pivot over obstructions. The first one he tried had a lead weight to keep it extended, but when HERON was at speed, it would swing to horizontal and lose its grip on the water. The second relied on friction to hold it down. Two lock washers created enough spring-like compression on the blade to hold it down, even at speed, but allowed the blade to pivot. Soon after he equipped HERON with this version, Nick ran the boat over a submerged log, and both motor and rudder kicked up, neither damaged.

Hand on the whipstaff, Nick takes HERON out for a solo trial.

On a later outing, Nick, his wife, and sons Andrew and Patrick took HERON out on a backwater slough. All was going well as the boat motored along until fish started jumping around them. Two 10-lb grass carp leaped up out of the water and landed in the boat. Flopping wildly, they splattered mud, scales, and blood everywhere. Andrew, the younger son, wasn’t at all happy to have the uninvited guests aboard.

HERON kept busy with family and friends on a vacation stay on the shores of an Arkansas lake.

Have you recently launched a boat? Please email us. We’d like to hear about it and share your story with other Small Boats Monthly readers.

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Comments (5)

Could have saved some trouble just building a Simmons’s Sea Skiff , but nice boat.

Thanks! For us, though, banging our heads against the wall trying to figure things out is most of the fun. Building the Sea Skiff would have robbed us of that opportunity. Nick

Very nice boat! Handy steering/shift/throttle arrangement. I may use that set up myself in the CLC Peeler skiff build I’ve got going. As to Joe’s comment, I say Suum Cuique !

Great boat by a great guy! Nick is my “nephew-in-law,” the husband of my niece. I graduated from the US Merchant Marine Academy at Kings Point, NY, class of 1970, and graduated with his Dad from H.V. Cooper HS in Vicksburg, MS. Danny and I considered ourselves the class Rednecks. Danny lived ten miles north of town in Redwood community while I lived ten miles south of it in the Redbone community! We weren’t typical rednecks as our parents all were educated, both both our mothers were artists, and were avid readers. I too have had a lifelong love of boats and water. I was active in the merchant marine for nine and a half years, spent a lot of time afloat, but never made a boat. Kudos to Nick and Danny for their great accomplishments! “Acta Non Verba” is the Kings Point motto—Deeds Not Words. Neither were able to go but both would have made the Academy proud!

Thanks, Uncle Mark! That is quite a compliment. All the best to you and yours! Nick

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We have 14 designs so far of varying type and style.

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National Heron Sailing Association of Australia

Everything about the heron.

The Heron is a two person dinghy that is sailed in all states of Australia.  The Heron was designed in the early 1950s by Jack Holt in the UK.  The class was introduced to Australia in the late 1950s and has flourished in its new home.

The Heron offers safe entry level sailing for novices but also provides an ongoing challenge for experienced sailors who are seeking to optimise performance.

The Heron can be built in timber (using traditional framing or stitch and glue construction) or fibreglass.  Second hand boats usually range in price from $500 to $8,000.  A fully equipped new fibreglass boat bought off the shelf can be put on the water for approximately $12,500.

The Heron has a long and proud history of family involvement.  Many of the past class national championships have been won by parent/child crew combinations.  A number of sailors who crewed in the Heron in the past have returned to the class with their own children to share the family sailing experience.

The Heron was designed with a two piece (mast/gaff) gunter rig.  A one piece (or Bermudan) mast has been introduced in recent years that gives similar performance.  Both rigs can be used in competitive sailing with no performance difference.  A larger headsail (genoa) has also been introduced for use by crews with a combined weight of 135 kgs or more.  Use of this sail has allowed couples to sail together and compete on an even footing with lighter crews.

Join the discussion in the Heron Sailing Australia Facebook Group

March / April Issue No. 297  Preview Now

Oar / Paddle

Night heron.

This boat brings the volume of the hull out towards the ends more for a higher prismatic coefficient. This gives it good efficiency at faster speeds. It has fairly hard chines with no concave sections. A slight lean will allow the boat to turn easily. The low back deck permits the paddler to easily lean back so their head touches the back deck. The foredeck is high enough that most paddlers will be able to get there legs in and out whiled sitting down. The design can be built with higher deck for those who need more room.Strip-plank construction allows a rugged, lightweight boat be built without a lot of expertise. The narrow, flexible strips can conform to graceful shapes making an efficient and beautiful design.

Design Specifications

54 South Rd

Groton 6340 Phone: 860 659 8847

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Sunday, december 24, 2017, heron sailboat plans.

Boat plans wooden boat plans boat kits, Begin your search for wooden boat plans here! thousands of builders have assembled chesapeake light craft boats from scratch with these plans. you might already have. Sail schooner heron - maine summer day sails, caribbean, Sail schooner heron in rockport-camden maine for day sails, eco tour, lobster lunch, sunset dinner sailing, private charters. sail grenadines this winter. The shell boats story, Within these pages you will surely find the boat of your dreams. we are especially proud of our customers who, have built over 900 boats from our kits and plans..

Other dinghy designs & plans - selway fisher, The rig daggerboard fitted constructed rowing boat standard rig gunter yw heron full plans cost : uk. The rig and daggerboard can be fitted after she has first been constructed as a rowing boat and the standard rig is the gunter YW HERON FULL PLANS COST : UK The heron dinghy class association, The heron dinghy remains versatile multi build purchasing plans part boat parking social. The Heron Dinghy remains as versatile and multi build your own by purchasing the plans or just become part of a Boat parking available and social National heron sailing association australia, The heron person dinghy fully equipped fibreglass boat bought shelf sail allowed couples sail. The Heron is a two person dinghy A fully equipped new fibreglass boat bought off the shelf can be Use of this sail has allowed couples to sail

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This little ship, with it’s shallow draft, is ideal for exploring estuaries as well as for coastal cruising with a young family. Having bilge keels means that she will dry out level making her easily berthed in a creek. LOD (Length over deck) 19’6’’; LWL 17’; Beam 7’10’’; Draft 2’; Displ. 2700 lbs.; Ballast 850 lbs; Sail Area 200 sq.ft.; Headroom 4’3’’.  Note - this design was part of our Professional Series of designs (for professional boat builders) but has now had it's hull computer modeled and plans amplified to include all necessary details for home strip plank construction.

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The plans show her as a rowing dinghy but she could easily take a sail plan with the 11'3" heron class sailing dinghy was originally designed by jack.

Heron - find out more about the heron or search the boat finder and dinghy database to find a suitable dinghy for your needs.. The plans show her as a rowing dinghy but she could easily take a sail plan with the 11'3" heron class sailing dinghy was originally designed by jack. Building a heron dinghy from a plywood kit using stitch and glue method.

Building a heron dinghy from a plywood kit using stitch and glue method.

The 11'3" heron class sailing dinghy was originally designed by jack holt and has been around now, for many years - many. The heron dinghy remains as versatile and multi-functional as it was when it was first designed over 50 years ago. it provides safe, family fun or competitive one. The heron is a two person dinghy that is sailed in all states of australia. the heron was designed in the early 1950s by jack holt in the uk..

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Heron Sailing Boat Plans Midgrade

Heron sailing boat plans, 518 different and unique boat designs.

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Heron Sailing Boat Plans

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