ericson 26 sailboat review

• Forum Listing
• Marketplace
• Advanced Search
• About The Boat
• Boat Review Forum
• SailNet is a forum community dedicated to Sailing enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about sailing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, repairs, reviews, maintenance, and more!

Ericson 26 vs. Pearson 27

• Add to quote

My wife and I are considering either an Ericson 26 or a Pearson 27 for our first sailboat to cruise on long weekends off the Maine coast. I''d be interested in any comments pro or con either sailboat.  

SailorMitch, Have you joined the Pearson Current?? I''ve looked at their site, but haven''t joined. We also love our OLD Pearson. 1973 P-33. A Shaw designed, no frills, great sailing boat. When I was a teenager, my family had a mid-60s Pearson Vanguard. Prettier, but I believe the P-33 is a better sailor.  

I''m familiar with the Pearson Current, and the National Pearson Yacht Owner''s Association, but have never joined. It gets mixed reviews primarily because the fellow who runs it, Bill Lawrence, keeps it a one man show. It''s more than he can handle, so the usefulness of the organization and the information is limited. I am Vice Commodore of the Pearson Sailing Association of the Chesapeake Bay, so get my Pearson info fix that way. But our group in no way tries to compete with NPYOA. We have a couple of land events a year and rendezvous every month during sailing season. We also publish a newsletter, which was intermittent last year, but WILL be more frequent this year. The older P-33''s are nice sailing boats from what I hear. It no doubt sails better than my 27 with it''s winged keel. But the volume below on my boat would probably surprise you, too. Where do you sail? Just wondering is all.  

SailorMithch, We''re in Oriental, NC. Planning a trip to Chesapeake the year. Hopefull leave Oriental around Memorial Day and return Oct; throught the Dismal Swamp canal. I''ve not been sailing in Chesapeake in many years, and really looking forward to it. No particular plans yet. Where are you?  

Dare -- I sail out of Rock Creek, near the mouth of the Patapsco River down from Baltimore. Pretty good area for sailing. Your trip will be great. Lots of terrific places to see on the bay. If you want some of my favorites, email me directly at [email protected]. The Pearson Sailing Assoc. sponsors rendezvous every month, primarily in the mid-northern bay. I''ll forward the schedule to you once we have it just in case you''d like to hook up with some other Pearsonites while you''re up this way.  

danapsy, Wow, lots of Pearson fans here! I''ve sailed extensively in both boats, if you reverse your footages, that is. Ericson 27, Pearson 26. My humble opinions here are assuming that these boats are all fairly similar. Anyone feel free to correct me if I''m wrong. (It has been known to happen!!) While they are both great boats, my vote is on the the Ericson. It sounds to me like your cruising is going to involve some wind and weather at some point, and the Ericson will take a heck of lot more and handle much better than the Pearson. I have double handed and single handed both boats. In my opinion, the Pearson is a lot more tender, and requires a reef or dropping the main altogether when the wind pipes up over 20 or so. The Ericson is also better at powering through waves. Good luck - would like to hear what you end up with!! KathieO  

While both the Pearson and Ericson are good vessels why not consider another boat in the same size range with similar a heritage from a company that is still in business? I once owned a Sabre 28 and it was a very nice cruising boat for two people with the benefit of a manufacturer currently making boats where you can still get information and support. An early 80s boat should have pressure water, diesel, wheel with autopilot, good storage and above all very seaworthy. The 28s were all solid fiberglass hull and very strong boats with tabbed bulkheads and furniture. Owners groups are helpful but they can’t send you new hatch boards or companionway frame from stock?  

Just a comment on what Kathie said. While I agree with her bottom line on reefing the Pearson at 20 knots plus, the P-26 she has sailed in is a far different boat from the P-27. The P-26 debuted in 1970, the P-27 in 1987. Bill Shaw learned quite a bit in those 17 years, especially how to get and use interior volume. The 27, while really only a few inches longer than the 26, is an all around bigger boat in all dimensions, especially displacement, LWL and beam. I haven''t sailed any Ericsons, but the P-27 handles rough water very well. I''ve had mine out in 30-40 knot winds on the Chesapeake and just completed a circumnavigation of the Delmarva Peninsula with 20-30 knot winds on the Delaware Bay. The 27 handled it all beautifully.  

Thanks for the information. A lot will depend on what is available in the Northeast. I am leaning toward a Pearson 27 because of the greater headroom, but there is an Ericson 26 available locally. There are some Pearson 27''s available in Massachusetts. Any ideas about buying in the off season given that a sea trial could not happen here in Maine until mid-April or slightly earlier in Massachusetts or Rhode Island? Would I be taking too big a chance if a portion of the price was held in escrow pending a sea trial, especially of the engine''s performance?  

I assume you''ll have the boat surveyed. I also suggest having a good diesel mechanic look at the engine. If you go with the P-27, the last one came out of the factory in late 1990 or early 1991 so the engine has some age on it. Pearson used Universals in about the first 2/3 of the run, and Westerbekes towards the end (from about hull number 188 or so on out of a total of about 235 boats.) Both are good engines, but I''d still recommend having a mechanic check them over. Still leave some money in escrow for the sea trial, or even put language in the contract that the sale is dependent upon a successful sea trial. Mitch  

• ?            
• 173.8K members

Top Contributors this Month

ERICSON 26-2 Detailed Review

If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of ERICSON 26-2. Built by Ericson Yachts (USA) and designed by Bruce King, the boat was first built in 1972. It has a hull type of Fin w/spade rudder and LOA is 7.85. Its sail area/displacement ratio 17.32. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Westerbeke, runs on Diesel.

ERICSON 26-2 has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about ERICSON 26-2 and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who designed the ericson 26-2.

ERICSON 26-2 was designed by Bruce King.

Who builds ERICSON 26-2?

ERICSON 26-2 is built by Ericson Yachts (USA).

When was ERICSON 26-2 first built?

ERICSON 26-2 was first built in 1972.

How long is ERICSON 26-2?

ERICSON 26-2 is 6.68 m in length.

What is mast height on ERICSON 26-2?

ERICSON 26-2 has a mast height of 9.6 m.

Member Boats at HarborMoor

• Forums New posts Unanswered threads Register Top Posts Email
• What's new New posts New Posts (legacy) Latest activity New media
• Media New media New comments
• Boat Info Downloads Weekly Quiz Topic FAQ 10000boatnames.com
• Classifieds Sell Your Boat Used Gear for Sale
• Parts General Marine Parts Hunter Beneteau Catalina MacGregor Oday
• Help Terms of Use Monday Mail Subscribe Monday Mail Unsubscribe

1967 Ericson 26

• Thread starter Firefly15028
• Start date Jan 12, 2007
• Brand-Specific Forums
• Other Sailboats

Firefly15028

I have been looking at a 1967 Ericson 26 for sale, and I am wondering if it sounds too good to be true because it is too good to be true. It is a 1967 model E26 and is currently in the water at a lake nearby and it is sitting on its waterline (meaning no obvious leaks, I assume). The price is $4200, and that includes a six-post trailer, an old 4-HP or new 7.5-HP outboard (whichever one the owner decides to sell with it, but the 7.5-hp is too big for the engine cover), a depth sounder, a 19-channel VHF, a 2-stage battery charger, new running rigging, and the standing rigging LOOKS good to my untrained eye. It has a 150% and 130% Genoa and a storm jib. The mainsail is from a Harrison 27, and is like new. There is a slight case of dock rash on the bow (a black mark, like he hit a tire) and the rubrail and non-skid colors are quite faded, but the owner says he is repainting it. It has a 20-gallon holding tank with deck access for pumping out, and is complete with a cooler that drains into the bilge and an alcohol stove. The owner says the only water that has ever been in the bilge was from the cooler.Is this price reasonable, or is it very low for a boat this old but this well equipped? And how good is the fiberglas on 40-year-old Ericson boats? Is this model balsa or foam cored? Should I expect problems with this boat? Thanks for any comments anyone would like to make.  

That is ball park for the boat. At 4 grand, if it looks good to you, what do you have to loose?  

Four Grand At my level of financial wherewithal, I'd stand to lose the only four grand I have (or haven't got at the moment). Of course I'd still have the trailer, and the outboard, and the electronics, and a lot of other stuff that might be worth something on another boat, but I wouldn't have a boat and I wouldn't have my four grand.Actually, I agree with you. If I actually had the four grand right now and the boat stood up to a close inspection out of the water, I'd buy it in a minute and probably wouldn't even have written the post above. But I appreciate your comment that the price is in the ball park. I'm desperately looking for a way to come up with the cash. Thanks!  

I hear yuh. You could get it suveyed by a professional. Actually, it's a must in most cases. Your insurance company might require it also but you're out the survey fee whether you buy the boat or not.  

Surveys costly, insurance nil I checked on the cost of a survey; it is $14/ft plus $125 travel costs for the surveyor to go to the lake where the boat is slipped. That's $489, nearly 12% of the cost of the boat (actually it is more than 12% because the actual selling price is a bit cheaper than I indicated). And my insurance company will not insure the boat against damage or loss at all; they say it is too old. They will insure it for liability only, at $289/yr for $100,000 liability limit.If I was immediately ready to buy the boat I would pay the $489 and have it surveyed anyway if for no other reason than to be sure there wasn't something massively wrong that would cost more than the boat to fix, and to have a list of minor problems that I could go through and fix myself after I bought it.That is one of my concerns: When I talked to the owner, he seemed willing to have an "in the water" survey, but tried to talk me out of having it hauled out for a survey. That made me a little suspicious.  

Warren Milberg

Buying, owning... ...maintaining, and sailing and "older" boat always involves some risks. I think that the key is trying to understand and minimize those risks. While I mostly always think a professional survey is a good choice to minimize risks, it may not be the best choice given the price range you are talking about. Rather, you may want to buy Don Casey's book "Inspecting the Aging Sailboat" and do your own survey. You have to accept the fact that a 1967 boat is going to need some upgrades and/or repairs. Hopefully, you will be able to do many of these chores yourself and save yourself some high-cost professional labor. It will also help you learn more about your "new" boat. In looking at an older boat, what you should concentrate on those things that could lead to catastrophic failure and what may be required to avoid them. So you may want to focus on the integrity of the hull, deck, and rig. There are a lot of older boats out there that are great bargains if you are willing to do the basics to keep them up. There are also some boats out there that, due to neglect in their manufacture or upkeep, are not bargains at any price.  

I don't see why he would be reluctant to have the boat pulled out of the water. Does seem suspicious. Maybe it's been grounded.  

Did you get a good look at the bulkheads? Especially where the chainplates are fastened?? This is always a problem area, and not just on older boats.  

Don Casey's book Thank you. I presume Don Casey's book is on Amazon.com; I will see if I can track it down. I think it might be a good book to have and read even if I do have a professional surveyor look at it; it will help me keep everyone honest and help me know what's going on. Given the price of the boat, it might help me save some money too if I decide to do it myself. I appreciate your comments.  

Maybe it's been grounded That's what I was thinking.  

Bulkheads & chainplates No, I haven 't even been aboard the boat as yet. The closest I've come to chainplates was that while standing on the dock, I grabbed the fitting for one of the stays at the deck level and tried to wiggle it; it seemed firm. I know that means nothing at this point. I remember reading in Good Old Boats the job someone had in replacing rusted chainplates; I should go back and find that article. Thanks for the information.  

Firefly, most of the decisions that you must make concerning this or any boat hinge on your skills and abilities. If the boat hasn't been smashed then it can be made into a new custom outfitted boat. The material cost is not great but the labor demands are very large. Ericson boats were well built reliable boats. 4000 dollars for the hull, the rigging and the sails is a bargain if it fits your needs and abilities. But if you will need to hire the labor it will cost you far more than you can imagine.  

There is a well used term"hand tight" it means just that. You can't move it by hand. But in the realm of boats "hand tight" is still loose.Fiber glass repairs are different but not more difficult than any other repairs. I charge 75 dollars per hour for labor plus the cost of material. The more skills you learn the less money you have to earn. The work must be done to make the job right.  

Good old boats Firefly,I own a 1967 Tartan 27 which we got at a fire sale for $4K that came with no trailer (the boat weighs nearly 4 tons). I also have a partner in the boat to help diffray mooring/docking costs. I can tell you that in 1967 they (boat manufacturers)overbuilt their hulls as they did not know how little fiberglass they could get away with as they do today. They tended to overbuild the standing rigging as well. Both of these characteristics are good from the standpoint of safety but not necessarily for racing or speed. For my first "big" boat I was not concerned with racing or speed and was happy to get an old boat that was built like a Cadillac in its day. We do race our boat though and surprise many more modern cruisers with our 240 PHRF (tub) rating. I too was reluctant to jump right in on this venture but now I am quite happy that I did and that I have a partner. The Ericsson 26 has a trailer which will allow you to keep mooring fees down to a minimum - be sure to check out the condition of the trailer checking for rusty axle, lee springs and wheel hubs (indication that ball bearings may not be in such good shape). On the boat itself I would check all the decks for spongyness (does it give way even a little when you step on it). The chainplates and bulkheads have already been mentioned. Pay close attention to these. We had to rebuild the knee for our aft chainplate which pulled up. Working with fiberglass is not so bad, just a little messy which is why they make thinners like Acetone and Lacquer Thinner.Does the motor run? Be prepared to get your hands dirty maintaining it.Does your car have a towing hitch? This can cost $500 to install a new one.Can your car pull the weight of the boat the distances you will be pulling it?Have the previous owner (PO) show you how to step and unstep the mast. If it requires a crane to do it then your setup will not be so easily portable.As suggested you should probably get the boat surveyed by a professional for 2 reasons. The main reason is so you can get insurance - most insurers will not insure an old boat like this without a survey. The other reason is to find out if there are some larger lurking problems that you cant see. The surveyor may charge up to $350. I am attaching a link to a surveyor's website where there is a lot of information about buying older boats and things to check for. It is also good reading. I hope you can find a way to own this boat. Let us know how it works out.http://www.yachtsurvey.com/buyingaboat.htm  

Firefly, I haven't found an insurer for my 68 Islander beyound liability. Hand tight is before you apply tools.Most of the boats in the size being discussed here are not trailer sailed, just trailer stored. Launched in spring and taken home in the fall.  

Winter lasts about two days or so here Hmmm. Well, maybe "good ol' boats" are not insurable. Okay, we'll put our insurance money into ground tackle and safety equipment.Roger on hand tight.As for fall-haulout-spring-splash, well, this is Arizona. The lake is at 2151-ft elevation and never freezes over, and it is rare that snow falls as low as 3,000-ft on the Superstitions. We were up at the lake December 7th and it was 53-degrees F with a 15-knot wind, and I found it chilly with just a long-sleeved denim shirt (I forgot my windbreaker). But at least one sailor was on the lake on his sailboat, and the lake was peaceful without the jetskis and skiboats. We would have loved to have been out there on our own boat. We have no use for a trailer other than to haul it out for inspection, or haul it up to Lake Powell, where our daughter lives, for a couple of weeks in the summer. In fact, we're going to have to figure out where to store the trailer to avoid paying storage fees on it. My mother-in-law would have a hissy fit if I tried to store the boat and trailer alongside her mobile home here, but I might be able to get away with storing the boat trailer.Thanks again for the information.  

I forgot to mention a few things I was trying to be encouraging in my first post. Now the gloves are off. B.O.A.T. = Bring Out Another ThousandorPicture yourself in a cold shower peeling out 1 hundred dollar bills and watch them disappear down the drain.The purchase price of your dream boat is only the admission fee to a sport that used to be exclusively for the well to do. Having said all that I suspect that the Ericsson 26 might just be the right boat for you. You seem to understand that there are recurring fees (launch, dock, moor) so you are one step closer to reality. In some places you can just get (read buy) a used mushroom anchor (say 200#) and chain and drop it yourself. Then you need to find a tender of some sort to get out to her. The drag here is that often you will have to motor back to the dock to pick up supplies and additional crew. Slips are the most convenient but cost the most.The other topic I wanted to touch on was something I think Ross touched upon. You will be happy with this boat only if it matches your expectations. I say this because if you just want to sail you can get a smaller (real trailer sailer) boat that you could tow. But if you want the commodore (wife or GF etc) to enjoy it too then the E26 sounds more like the best bet. You can sleep on it, cook, fish, sail, motor or leave it as chores on land never disappear just because you own a boat. The chores on a boat never seem to end.One other note of caution: is this a centerboard or swing keel boat? If so check that mechanism to make sure it works.I am also curious if the mast is deck stepped or keel stepped. Keel stepped could be considered a little more sturdy as the deck also helps to keep the mast upright. On this point the keel stepped mast foot should have some heavy electrical cable running to a plate on the outside of the hull (thru hull plate) for lightning dispersion. Anyway, good luck and keep us informed.  

Insurance We got insurance through my partners homeowners insurance company when Boat US was getting all hissy about our boat being from 1967. Required a new survey though.  

• This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register. By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies. Accept Learn more…

Review of Ericson 26

Basic specs..

The Ericson 26 is equipped with a finn keel. The finn keel is the most common keel and provides splendid manoeuvrability. The downside is that it has less directional stability than a long keel.

The keel is made of lead. Compared with iron, lead has the advantage of being 44% heavier, which allows a smaller keel and hence less water resistance and higher speed.

The boat can enter even shallow marinas as the draft is just about 1.31 - 1.41 meter (4.30 - 4.60 ft) dependent on the load. See immersion rate below.

An outboard motor is often used on this boat. In that case the boat will typically require a power of 4 - 5 hp, alternatively 88 - 106 lbs thrust if you prefer an electrical motor. Electric outboards are becoming popular for sailboat owners who want clean instant power with less noise and no exhaust fumes.

Sailing characteristics

This section covers widely used rules of thumb to describe the sailing characteristics. Please note that even though the calculations are correct, the interpretation of the results might not be valid for extreme boats.

What is Capsize Screening Formula (CSF)?

The capsize screening value for Ericson 26 is 1.89, indicating that this boat could - if evaluated by this formula alone - be accepted to participate in ocean races.

What is Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed?

The theoretical maximal speed of a displacement boat of this length is 6.2 knots. The term "Theoretical Maximum Hull Speed" is widely used even though a boat can sail faster. The term shall be interpreted as above the theoretical speed a great additional power is necessary for a small gain in speed.

The immersion rate is defined as the weight required to sink the boat a certain level. The immersion rate for Ericson 26 is about 103 kg/cm, alternatively 578 lbs/inch. Meaning: if you load 103 kg cargo on the boat then it will sink 1 cm. Alternatively, if you load 578 lbs cargo on the boat it will sink 1 inch.

Sailing statistics

This section is statistical comparison with similar boats of the same category. The basis of the following statistical computations is our unique database with more than 26,000 different boat types and 350,000 data points.

What is Motion Comfort Ratio (MCR)?

What is L/B (Length Beam Ratio)?

What is a Ballast Ratio?

What is Displacement Length Ratio?

Maintenance

When buying anti-fouling bottom paint, it's nice to know how much to buy. The surface of the wet bottom is about 18m 2 (193 ft 2 ). Based on this, your favourite maritime shop can tell you the quantity you need.

If you need to renew parts of your running rig and is not quite sure of the dimensions, you may find the estimates computed below useful.

This section shown boat owner's changes, improvements, etc. Here you might find inspiration for your boat.

Do you have changes/improvements you would like to share? Upload a photo and describe what to look for.

We are always looking for new photos. If you can contribute with photos for Ericson 26 it would be a great help.

If you have any comments to the review, improvement suggestions, or the like, feel free to contact us . Criticism helps us to improve.

Ericson 26 2

The ericson 26 2 is a 25.75ft fractional sloop designed by bruce king and built in fiberglass by ericson yachts (usa) since 1972..

The Ericson 26 2 is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a low righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a day-boat. The fuel capacity is originally very small. There is a very short water supply range.

Ericson 26 2 for sale elsewhere on the web:

Main features

Login or register to personnalize this screen.

You will be able to pin external links of your choice.

See how Sailboatlab works in video

We help you build your own hydraulic steering system - Lecomble & Schmitt

Accommodations

Builder data, other photos.

Modal Title

The content of your modal.

Personalize your sailboat data sheet

Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. Sign in to save them permanently, access them on any device, and receive relevant alerts.

• Sailboat Guide

Ericson Yachts

Ericson Yachts was founded by a number of former employees of Columbia Yachts. With a few exceptions, the Ericson line was a collaboration with designer Bruce King. Though many Ericson models sold extremely well, the company had a turbulent history financially from the beginning with numerous changes in ownership. In 1968 the company became a subsidiary of Pacific American Industries and a new plant was built in Santa Ana , CA. By 1990, the Ericson brand had been acquired by Pacific Seacraft, which continued to build some of the later models until 1999, when it was retired. Original Address: 1931 Deere Avenue Santa Ana, CA 92705 USA MIC: ELY

Associations

• One Ton Class
• Carl Alberg/Bruce King
• Carl Schumacher
• George Olson
• Ron Holland
• William Crealock

41 sailboats built by Ericson Yachts

Ericson 25+

Ericson 35-2

Ericson 32-2.

Ericson 23-2

Ericson 26 (Crealock)

Ericson 23-1.

Ericson 28+

Ericson 31 Independence

Ericson 36C

Ericson 30-2

Ericson 35-1, ericson olson 34.

Ericson 32 (Scorpion)

Ericson 39 B

Ericson 31 Independence (Cutter)

Ericson 28-2

Ericson 38-200

Ericson 26-2

Ericson 34T

Ericson olson 911 s.

Ericson 32-3

Ericson 35-3

Ericson 381

Ericson 32-200

Ericson 34-2

Ericson 30+

Ericson 30-1

• About Sailboat Guide

©2024 Sea Time Tech, LLC

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

• New Sailboats
• Sailboats 21-30ft
• Sailboats 31-35ft
• Sailboats 36-40ft
• Sailboats Over 40ft
• Sailboats Under 21feet
• used_sailboats
• Apps and Computer Programs
• Communications
• Fishfinders
• Handheld Electronics
• Plotters MFDS Rradar
• Wind, Speed & Depth Instruments
• Anchoring Mooring
• Running Rigging
• Sails Canvas
• Standing Rigging
• Diesel Engines
• Off Grid Energy
• Cleaning Waxing
• DIY Projects
• Repair, Tools & Materials
• Spare Parts
• Tools & Gadgets
• Cabin Comfort
• Ventilation
• Footwear Apparel
• Foul Weather Gear
• Mailport & PS Advisor
• Inside Practical Sailor Blog
• Activate My Web Access
• Reset Password
• Pay My Bill
• Customer Service

• Free Newsletter
• Give a Gift

How to Sell Your Boat

Cal 2-46: A Venerable Lapworth Design Brought Up to Date

Rhumb Lines: Show Highlights from Annapolis

Open Transom Pros and Cons

Leaping Into Lithium

The Importance of Sea State in Weather Planning

Do-it-yourself Electrical System Survey and Inspection

Install a Standalone Sounder Without Drilling

When Should We Retire Dyneema Stays and Running Rigging?

Rethinking MOB Prevention

Top-notch Wind Indicators

The Everlasting Multihull Trampoline

How Dangerous is Your Shore Power?

DIY survey of boat solar and wind turbine systems

What’s Involved in Setting Up a Lithium Battery System?

The Scraper-only Approach to Bottom Paint Removal

Can You Recoat Dyneema?

Gonytia Hot Knife Proves its Mettle

Where Winches Dare to Go

The Day Sailor’s First-Aid Kit

Choosing and Securing Seat Cushions

Cockpit Drains on Race Boats

Rhumb Lines: Livin’ the Wharf Rat Life

Re-sealing the Seams on Waterproof Fabrics

Safer Sailing: Add Leg Loops to Your Harness

Waxing and Polishing Your Boat

Reducing Engine Room Noise

Tricks and Tips to Forming Do-it-yourself Rigging Terminals

Marine Toilet Maintenance Tips

Learning to Live with Plastic Boat Bits

• Sailboat Reviews

Both the 1969 and 1985 versions of this Southern California cruiser/racer were designed by Bruce King, and may represent good values, though the early model had a lot more problems.

“Ericson Yachts,” we wrote back in a 1986 review of the Ericson 27, “was somewhat of the archetypal production boatbuilder: trendy, performance oriented, colorfully advertised, and, for the most part, successful.”

The company was formed in 1964 by Don and Gene Kohlman, two San Francisco Bay area sailors who moved south to Irvine, California to set up shop. Their first boats were what Don called “an eclectic line,” meaning they grabbed what they could—a modified Carl Alberg design, a 26-footer by W.B. Crealock and a 32′ 5.5 Meter keel boat similar to the Columbia Sabre of that same time.

The first boats were introduced in 1965. In 1971, the CML Group bought Ericson Yachts and ran it until 1984 when Gene Kohlman bought it back. He and Don managed things until 1990, when they were forced to shut down. Pacific Seacraft bought the molds for the Ericson 34 and 38 and resumed production of these two models (the former as the Ericson 35 and the latter as the Ericson 380—see PS, January 15,1998) in 1991.

During this time Ericson built three 32s, the 1965 keel boat mentioned above, and in 1969, the Bruce King-designed CCA-type 32. That model stayed in production until 1978, with well over 500 built. In 1985, Bruce King designed a new 32, which lasted four years with more than 700 built. We’ll refer to King’s two designs as the ‘69 and ‘84. (Just to confuse matters, the PHRF Handicap book published by US Sailing lists a number of permutations, such as the 32-2 and 32-3 and 32-200, most of which refer to the type of keel and whether it had the optional tall rig.)

Ericson was indeed an “archetypal production builder,” competing with Pearson, Cal, Columbia, Islander and the like, all but Pearson being neighbors in Southern California. Greater Los Angeles, specifically Costa Mesa, was the epicenter of production fiberglass sailboat building during the late 1960s and 1970s. Costa “Mecca” evaporated faster than styrene, the result of stringent air pollution laws that made manufacturing too costly, and as a result of a downturn in sailboat sales, one of many in this cyclical business that every 10 years or less beheads those with their necks still stuck out. 1990, if you recall, was the year of the Gulf War against Iraq, and imposition of the luxury tax.

The Designs A close look at the ‘69 and ‘85 Ericson 32s makes for an interesting comparison. It would be fun to cut out sail plans of a bunch of 32s, designed every few years between 1965 and 2000, and stack them like cards. Flipping them quickly, one would see the overhangs come and go; keels break away from the rudders, get skinnier and deeper; and mast locations move back and forth along with aspect ratios.

The early Ericson 32 was influenced by the CCA (Cruising Club of America) rating rule, of which designer Robert Perry once wrote, “Like all good rating rules it was a development type rule and not a handicap type rule.” Among other traits, CCA-type boats tend to have long overhangs (because waterline length was penalized) and low aspect ratio sail plans with short masts and long booms. To emphasize the point, the ‘69 32’s E dimension (mainsail foot) is 13′ and the ‘85 32’s 11.5′; the P dimension (luff) increased from 31.5′ to 36′. Both have double-spreader masthead sloop rigs.

The ‘85 32 has a slightly longer waterline and retains some of the ‘69 model’s bustle just forward of the rudder—a trick to increase sailing length.

More noticeable are the changes King made to the underwater appendages. The ‘69 32 has a swept back rudder and keel, influenced probably by the latest thinking (then) in Twelve Meter design. On the ‘85 32, the appendages are vertical, with the trailing edge of the keel raked forward. In a Sailing magazine review of the very similar Ericson 35, Perry theorized this change “…may help to make the maximum thickness line more vertical and improve the general performance of the keel.” Nowadays, with so many designers concentrating ballast in bulbs at the bottom of very thin blades with narrow roots, you have almost the inverse of King’s mid-80’s V-shaped keels.

King increased all of the principal dimension in the ‘85 model. Beam jumped from 9′ 8″ to 10′ 10″. The ‘85 32 is a bigger boat all around, with more LOA, LWL, displacement, and sail area as well. But displacement/length (D/L) and sail area/displacement (SA/D) ratios didn’t change that much—284 to 253, and 16.9 to 17.3 respectively. The later model, with a lower D/L and more horsepower, will be the faster boat.

Both old and new 32s are attractive for their time.

Construction Ericson Yachts, like other production builders of its day, didn’t do anything fancy in laying up and finishing its boats. Yet they are regarded as adequately strong. Hulls are solid fiberglass. Decks are cored with end-grain balsa, and, at least in the case of the ‘85 32, plywood was inserted in place of balsa in “high stress areas.” This is fine for handling compression loads, but does not ease the worry about delamination. In our opinion, no plywood should ever be used on a boat without the end grain sealed with epoxy resin or suitable substitute. Few builders, however, have then or do this now.

With the ‘85 32, Ericson stiffened the hull with a complex inner liner called a Tri-axial Force Grid (TAFG). This molded fiberglass unit incorporates many interior structures previously made from plywood and solid wood, from the anchor locker forward, to the floors and stringers under the cabin sole, to the ice box and engine beds. It’s a much less costly way to build a boat than using individual pieces of wood. The TAFG is bonded to the hull before the deck goes on, and one hopes it is never jarred loose. Where many builders incorporate berth foundations in their liners, however, Ericson built these up from plywood, anchoring them in the TAFG.

The hull/deck joint of the ‘85 model is glassed over with four layers of 3-oz. mat and 7-1/2-oz. cloth.

A few owners of both boats noted oilcanning in the hull; this most often occurs in the large, unsupported areas forward above the V-berth. An owner of a 1987 model said, “Heavy seas caused hull to flex, popping off starboard shelf trim.” An owner of an 1973 model said, “Hull distorts in heavy weather.”

Others noted the not uncommon problem of thin glass where there are sharp turns in the mold. And quite a few owners of both models complained about gelcoat flaws. Rubber rubrails deteriorate over time but can be replaced…if you can locate a supplier of the molding.

On the ‘69 32s, several owners complained also about mast compression cracking the deck (there is no compression post for the deck-stepped mast; the ‘85 32 has a keel-stepped mast), rudder bearings, wooden hatch leaks, cracked lifeline stanchion welds, and chainplate leaks rotting the bulkheads to which they are attached.

Ballast on both models is lead, much preferable to iron. In the ‘69 32, it is encapsulated in the hull mold. In the later model, it is external, with keel bolts through the TAFG.

Interior finishing is California style with lots of teak veneer, carpeting (early model) and brightly themed cushions.

Hardware quality is generally good though some items, like winches, may have to be updated. Ericson used Barlows on the early boats, Barients on the later models. Both companies are out of business now. If upgrading, self-tailers would be a big improvement.

Accommodations The interior plans are workable and straightforward, with a V-berth forward, enclosed head and hanging locker just aft of it, dinette and settee amidships, corner galley to starboard with quarter berth (6′ 6″ in the ‘85 32) and nav table to port. Obviously, there’s more space all round in the later model.

Ventilation for the ‘85 32 includes deck hatches, a Dorade and several opening portlights in the forward cabin and head. In the saloon are two long and narrow fixed portlights—Ericson’s distinctive shape with forward and aft sides slanted. One owner complained that the hanging locker is too small, and that the starboard settee is “severely angled to bow end—narrow.”

The ‘69 32s did not have good ventilation. One owner said, “opening ports would improve ventilation.” (There are, however, two small opening ports.) “Another just called it, “terrible.” Others said the berths are too narrow and the head too small. But one exclaimed, “Interior layout excellent! Good compromise for a boat this size.”

Headroom in both models is 6′ 2″.

The ‘85 32 has a 32-gal. freshwater tank located amidships with an optional 20-gal. tank under the V-berth. Holding tank is 17y-gals.

Some like the ‘69 32’s T-shaped cockpit, some don’t. Water collects at the helm because the scuppers are forward but the boat trims stern down. And a number of owners criticized the cockpit lockers for not being adequately waterproofed.

The ‘85 32 has a bridge, which opens up room at the galley; the ‘69 32 does not.

Performance Owners report that the ‘69 32 is only an average performer. Given its hull shape, it heels quickly to 20° or so, then settles in. Several owners said the boat stops “tilting” at 30°. This is typical of CCA-type boats, in order to immerse the ends and increase sailing length. “It likes to heel but remains stable,” said the owner of a 1975 model. The boat’s relatively short rig is cited as a liability in light winds. Most rate upwind performance better than off the wind. “Only boat I’ve sailed that beats faster than it reaches,” said the owner of a 1974 model. He figures 6 knots in 12 knots of breeze, sailing upwind. But then the owner of a 1973 boat said, “Goes to weather fair; off wind very fast.” Go figure.

An owner in Virginia said no one could ever get his boat to point to his satisfaction, adding that it tacks through 110°.

The boat has no significant weather helm problems and balances pretty well. A number of owners said they’d been through gales of 40-60 knots and the boat acquitted itself well.

Auxiliary power for the ‘69 32 was first a 27-hp. Palmer M60 or Atomic 4 gas engine. But readers listed a number of other power plants, including a Volvo MDIIC, 12-hp. Farymann. Access is poor. One owner modified the access “hole” from the quarter berth. The ‘85 32 came with a 21-hp. 3-cylinder Universal diesel and 22-gal. aluminum fuel tank.

Not surprisingly, owners of the ‘85 32 are much more positive about their boats’ performance. A tall rig was available, which helps in light air regions, such as the Chesapeake Bay. Similarly, the deep keel model outperforms the shoal and wing keels. “Unbelievable upwind and light air ability,” said the owner of a 1986 model.

The first reef is taken somewhat early, around 18 knots. And the fin keel requires some attention to the helm. “Wanders upwind,” said the owner of a 1987 boat. “Big rudder, easy to steer,” said one who owns a 1984 model.

The best performing 32 is the 32-200, with PHRF ratings around 150 and up. Earlier models generally rate in the 160s and 170s, with the ‘69 32 slowest at around 198 seconds per mile.

Conclusion It is clear from owner comments that considerable improvements were made to the 1985 model, solving problems with leaks, mast compression, rudder, and other niggling items. It would certainly be our choice of the two.

The early 32 seems to have an inordinate number of construction shortcomings, not the least of which is the mast cracking the deck, and gate valves on through-hulls that should be replaced with positive action seacocks.

Owner Comments “Engine is almost impossible to work on. Must remove wall from lazarette to get to clutch. Changing oil almost impossible.” —owner of 1974 model in Plymouth, Michigan

“Aft lower shrouds should have been attached to chainplates bonded to hull or inner bulkhead. Stanchions have no lateral support, some not backed, some can’t be reached from inside. Bilge should be deeper. Preventer crimped original boom on an accidental gybe in heavy air/seas. Especially good light air performer with 150% genoa or drifter/MPS. Boat is sensitive to proper sail selection and set. Very comfortable cruising for two to four. Plenty of stowage. I highly recommend the boat for excellent overall quality and ability.” — owner of 1974 model in Virginia Beach, Virginia

“Rudder is a spade type. I once bent the shaft crashing off a steep wave in gale conditions. Boat sailed fairly under jury steering. Wood frames for main hatch and companionway leak, allowing water to get to balsa core. Needs compression post for serious offshore work.” —owner of a 1972 model in Foster City, California

“Great cockpit. Don’t particularly like recessed companionway. Makes for high and ineffective dodger.” —owner of a 1989 model in San Diego, California

“Great boat! Big deep anchor locker a pleasure. Lots of ventilation. Good nav station with AC and DC panels and access to batteries and engine. Deep sink.” —owner of a 1983 model in Southern California

“Extremely happy with my boat re: quality, performance and appearance. Excellent engine. Opted for shoal draft which restricts pointing ability though she turns easily.” —Owner of a 1987 model in Hilton Head, South Carolina

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

i owned a 1977 Ericson 35. Overall great boat for my family. We were coastal cruisers along the Texas Gulf coast. Tried racing a few times and found she did not point well, but was fast downwind. Could never stay with the J boats upwind! Lost her to Hurricane Harvey.

Articles on good old boats are always welcome and too few and far between. That said, using second-hand owner opinions as a base for performance and reviews is questionable as is evidenced by the contradictory statements. I read these articles expecting hands-on sailing experience and professional evaluations.

LEAVE A REPLY Cancel reply

Log in to leave a comment

Latest Videos

Island Packet 370: What You Should Know | Boat Review

How To Make Starlink Better On Your Boat | Interview

Catalina 380: What You Should Know | Boat Review

• Privacy Policy
• Do Not Sell My Personal Information
• Online Account Activation
• Privacy Manager

Join us on March 29rd, 7pm EST

For the cbec virtual meeting.

All EYO members and followers are welcome to join the fun and get to know the guest speaker! See the link below for login credentials and join us!

March Meeting Info

(dismiss this notice by hitting 'X', upper right)

EY.o Information Exchange

General ericson forums, design & function.

• Yesterday at 3:33 AM

Cruising & Racing

• Seamanship & Boat Handling

• 58 minutes ago
• Christian Williams

Maintenance & Mechanical

• Today at 3:27 PM
• Loren Beach

Lifestyle & Living

• Cooking On Board: Recipes
• Mar 1, 2024

For Sale & Wanted

• Monday at 7:17 PM

Ericson EQ Exchange

• Mar 7, 2024
• 35 minutes ago

Regional Ericson Forums

Ericsons northeast.

• Dec 12, 2023
• Brass Dragon

Ericsons Mid-Atlantic & Chesapeake

• Dec 8, 2023

Ericsons Southeast & Gulf Coast

• Feb 23, 2024

Ericsons Great Lakes

• Feb 25, 2024

Ericsons Land Locked!

• Apr 26, 2023

Ericsons Northwest & British Columbia

• NW Sailing Info

• Yesterday at 3:28 PM

Ericsons Northern California

• NoCal Sailing Info
• Feb 28, 2024

Ericsons Southern California

• Jan 29, 2024

Feedback Forums

Announcements, support & faqs.

• Frequently Asked Questions

• May 4, 2023

Cheers & Jeers

• Yesterday at 4:17 AM

Latest posts

• Latest: nquigley
• Latest: Christian Williams
• Latest: Loren Beach

• Latest: alcodiesel
• Today at 12:51 PM
• Latest: Tooluser

Latest resources

• Prairie Schooner
• Updated: Nov 30, 2023

• MrChristopher
• Updated: Aug 26, 2023

• Updated: Dec 3, 2022

• Updated: Nov 15, 2022
• Updated: Sep 13, 2022

Forum statistics

Media statistics, share this page.