arctic tern sailboat plans

Arctic Tern Building Plans

£ 153.00 – £ 180.00

Availability. Usually in stock. More info on this plan and/or hardware lists Here . To convert this into a Sooty Tern, you need to add the supplementary sheets listed ( PL-0168 ).

Description

Additional information.

An artist at the Stornoway Festival said the Jeanie II reminded her of a tern. I suddenly realised what a graceful wee bird the tern is: very quick and manoeuvrable – a delight to watch in flight. So I decided on the name Arctic Tern for the revised JII design. This, the newest in the range of double enders, began as a 95% scaled-down Ness Yawl. Although originally drawn up with the same four-strake planking layout, it was decided to redraw the lines as a round-bilge hull with six strakes a side. This gives the boat an appearance closer to the traditional Shetland yoals. Four the more racing-oriented sailors, patterns are now available launch for a 5′ -1″ – 1.55m beam version – the same been as the JII but flatter and less flighty.

There is now a longer version – the “Sooty Tern” at 19′ 8″ (6m) with a raised shearline and increased sail area. The two extra sheets of drawings are available as a supplement to the Arctic Tern plans.

18′ 2″ – 5.52m

5′ 5″ – 1.64m

Weight (kg)

102 sq ft – 9.48 sq m

Time to build (estimate)

250-300 hours

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The Arctic Tern Project: For Passionate Sailors & DIY'ers, a Blog You Can't Miss

Posted August 21, 2009

Four years ago I got caught up in a boat building saga that continues to this day. Called The Arctic Tern Project , it chronicles Peter Gron of Gabriola Island, BC, Canada's odyssey which began in the autumn of 2004 when he built a boat shed and started building the 23' sloop Arctic Tern.

The Arctic Tern is of composite construction using the "Stitch-and-Glue" technique and was designed by Sam Devlin of Olympia Washington.

Since then I have been faithfully tuning in at the start of each month for the latest report on his project. Peter has persisted through cuts and bruises, missteps and miss-cuts, winter and summer to where he can now see the finish line.

Many of the photos of the gleaming varnish, bright brass and fine lines are a real pleasure to see.

If you are interested in do-it-yourself boat building, I highly recommend taking a look and guarantee that you will be quickly hooked. Many thanks to Peter for allowing me to reproduce some of his photos here.

To see where Peter is on the project today, see the Epilogue> click here.

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Arctic Tern – MOONSHADOW

This is a lovely clinker sailing boat.  Gunter rigged and with a cloud of sail.  In fact in a blow she is quite tender but does go well!  An Iain Oughtred design, typical of his style.  This makes a very good ‘raid’ boat, she rows well, sails well and I have managed to build an outboard outrigger on the starboard side to take a small 2.5 hp motor.  This is much easier to instal than a well and does little to spoil the lines – and no huge hole in the middle of the boat.  For rowing, the boat is a little heavy when compared to others and whilst she handles well, she can be a bit of a challenge to row in a decent crosswind.

Some points for anyone contemplating building one of these.  You can get a kit of ply and build frames cut out by Alec Jordan, and this will go a long way to getting you started, but more than that there is an economy of ply as Alec does take care to nest the plank sections which means that ply is not unnecessarily wasted.  This saves the lofting process and gets you going quicker.  Iain’s book Clinker Plywood Boatbuilding Manual is a useful read not only covering the basic techniques, but there is also a great deal of wisdom on the matter of dealing with Epoxy – which can be a subject in itself.

Comments are closed.

Arctic Tern - Edith

Saturday, january 14, 2017.

11 comments:

Very tidy work. Looks interesting and should be fun. I used some construction adhesive around each leg on the concrete floor to help stop my frame from being shifted. It's worked so far.

Never thought of using construction adhesive. I will have to check that out.

Have the plans but not yet the opportunity. Curious. ..any other reason you chose arctic tern? For me...lightness. Can be rowed by one person. Dad had a traditional jolly of somewhat similar design. Maine ceder. He never used it. It was too heavy

I chose the Arctic Tern for the same reasons you stated. I did look at Iain's smaller designs such as the Tirrik as well as his larger Caledonia. The Tirrik seemed a bit small and the Caledonia was way too big. I also looked at available shop space and the Arctic Tern fit the bill perfectly. I also think that I just liked the lines of the Arctic Tern. And I know that if you are not in love with the design of the boat that you are building, it will be difficult to complete a build.

Good afternoon! You continue to publish a photo of further construction?

Yes, I will continue to post both pictures and descriptions of my build. Thank you for viewing.

Hi Russell, well done on coming so far so diligently and thank you for the blog. I am a father of 2 with little time in my hands but a big passion for boats and great desire to embark on a journey similar to yours. Could I ask how many hours a week you dedicate to the construction of your arctic tern Edith? thank you

That is an interesting question as I have never clocked my hours. But in thinking back to the start of my build of the Arctic Tern, even before I began the build, I spend many hours reading and looking at other people’s blogs as well as following some of the builds that were posted on the Wooden Boat Forum. Once I ordered and received the plans from Iain Oughtred, I spent about 10 hours reviewing the plans and making a list of the first steps that were necessary. I also cross referenced the various blogs to make sure I was doing things correctly. I have approached building a boat as a long list of individual steps. I find that by looking at each step individually, the project is not overwhelming or unobtainable. I also signed up for the Off Center Harbor video site as they have a 40+ part video series, for the build of the Caledonia Yawl, which is the big sister to the Arctic Tern. It has been very helpful and I plan to continue to review each segment as I progress in the build. Since I began this build in the middle of January, I have to plan to work around the weather, especially the temperature. I heat my shop with wood and it takes me a good hour or more just to bring the temperature of the shop up to a comfortable working temperature (50 degrees). So if the weather is colder than 20 degrees F, I do not even try to work in the shop as it just takes too long to bring the temperature up. Up to this point I have been working about 6 to 10 hours per week. I have just finished cutting all of the strips for the stems I am now at the stage of getting ready to laminate the stems. But since I will not be able to control the temperature in the shop for any extended period of time, I plan to do the lamination process in my basement. Besides the actual time spent in the shop, I think I am always thinking about the next couple of steps. When I find that I have a question on something, I go back and look at a video on OCH or review someone’s blog. I know that I can also post questions on the Wooden Boat Forum as there are many experienced and seasoned boat builders that are part of the forum. I have also approached this build as a project that is going to take a couple of years to complete. I intend to build all of the spars by hand as well as a set of oars. The sails, I plan to purchase from a sail maker. I have many other interests and since I have just recently retired, I have 4 children as well as 9 grandchildren that I want to devote time to. Hopefully my answer helps. The one thought that I would leave you with is a phrase that one of the boat designers told me. “Enjoy the Journey”.

Thank you Russell; it is difficult to quantify the hours I spend thinking about the project and researching, documenting myself, but your answer is a good indication. It is indeed about the journey and getting children involved in that journey.

Thank you for sharing your first steps in building the arctic stern. I will follow you with my own boat building next year after I have built a workshop first.

After I built my first wooden boat, a cedar strip canoe in a 10' x 24' space, my wife suggested that I build a larger work shop. I took her advice and have a wonderful work shop (24' x 26') and I give her full credit for making it happen.

Small Boats Annual 2007

The Ness Yawl

A thoroughbred’s blend of ability and beauty

From Issue   Small Boats Annual 2007

S hetland boats caught my fancy a long while ago, and Ian Oughtred’s careful interpretations of them retain their heart-catching beauty of line and also their incredible ability in turbulent water.

I remember trying to photograph boats at the delightful Scottish Traditional Boat Festival at Portsoy on Scotland’s Moray Firth, when a short steep sea had built up with wind against a four-knot tide. Every small boat there, every skipper, was frustrated, stopped in their tracks, sails and spars lurching—except for one. Iain Oughtred appeared in his lovely Ness Yawl, JEANNIE II, and slithered over the tops of the waves as if on some sort of buoyant magic carpet. Iain left the other boats standing, sailed rings around them, came back to see what was holding them up, like an irritating youngster who has completely outpaced the oldies. She was the only boat that day that photographed well, with hull, rig, and sails doing her credit. If I needed to get back to harbor in a turbulent sea and didn’t want to spend all afternoon doing it, I would feel confident that a Ness Yawl would not disappoint me.

Iain Oughtred has made a practice of designing—and using—lightweight, glued-lap plywood rowing and sailing boats inspired by the Nordic tradition.

The historic type on which the design is based, the Shetland Ness Yole, was known to do the same, never happier than in a tide race where the sea was tricky but the fish were running. The shape is so buoyant at the ends, so built like a fish with her rounded bilge and clean double-ended lines, that she bounces over the waves and picks up less friction than a heavier, deeper, or less shapely boat. The Ness Yawl is a different boat, without the shallow long keel and the very low freeboard for rowing, but her hull shape still has similar characteristics. She may crash down on a wave, but she doesn’t dig in. And she’s fast. That was important to a Ness Yole fisherman: his boat needed to help him retreat to harbor quickly before an Atlantic gale hit, and even these traditionally built boats would surf well above their hull speed. The fishing grounds were mainly to the west, so the boats rowed upwind into the prevailing winds, and sailed back either with a load of fish—or with that ballast being shed before the greater urge for self-preservation. The Oughtred Ness Yawl is even lighter, and her 15′ 8″ waterline length gives her speed and also safety. Even as she comes up to a beach, her pointed stern will lift to and split the following waves, tracking well and in control. A good small boat can manage in ideal conditions: it’s her ability in those other situations that can materialize despite the best planning that are the deciding factor in my choice of a boat.

Ian Oughtred’s own Ness Yawl, JEANNIE II, is rigged as a gunter sloop, one of several rig variations he has designed for the boat.

I can’t think of a better sail-and-oars boat. It’s the philosophy of the boat, the idea behind her. To go back again to her origins, no Shetlander back in the 19th century planned to sail her upwind with a square sail, and when a more weatherly rig came along, she still moved so fast with a pair or three of oars that precious time was saved. Her stern doesn’t take kindly to an outboard, and the extra weight would be wrongly placed. As with all boats, you work your sailing around the boat’s abilities. She’s a bit lean, you might think, for sailing, but in fact like all Shetland-style boats she stiffens up as she heels. The waterline beam is considerably less when upright than when heeling toward the gunwale. In steady winds she’ll quite safely sail heeled somewhat over, her crew central and sitting up to windward, though I prefer not much more than 30 degrees. Iain Oughtred sailed to windward in 18 to 20 knots of wind under full sail and found she did remarkably well on her ear, beating her main competitor at the finish line, and it saved him tying in reefs. Some of us might not be so keen, or so adept, but it’s good to know it’s possible.

It’s here that the mizzen could come in handy, which is one of Iain’s possible rigs, but she heaves-to nicely without the mizzen, and the extra sail area is so small, it doesn’t really have the drawing capacity. A sloop rig might be good, but it’s less amenable to carrying passengers with its boom and kicking strap (as a vang is called here) taking up valuable space. A yawl configuration could be nice, the jib and mizzen making a good combination in heavy winds, or a jib could be put up instead of the lug in worsening conditions. But the balance-lug rig that Iain suggests is such a satisfying sail, so user-friendly and simple, I’d be tempted to just stick with it. Even the owner of WAHOO, built with a standing lug and mizzen, concurs in that. The lug sail goes well to windward, pointing up about 45 degrees and much further in gusts, so there’s no real need for a jib. In almost no wind at all, the Ness Yawl is apt to drift downwind, making more leeway than headway. That’s not what she was designed for; why not get out the oars?

The yawl rig, with a balanced lug foresail, keeps things simple in the cockpit but, in this case, necessitates a bentwood tiller to clear the mizzenmast.

I can speak with some considerable experience of rowing Iain Oughtred’s Ness Yawls, sometimes under racing conditions, sometimes beating every other boat. This is more a feature of the Ness Yawl than my own prowess: she rows cleanly and quickly, tracking well. Just look at the boat shape: she’s lean and long, shallow draft with low freeboard, easy lines giving no turbulence. It’s good exercise and good fun, much greener than an exercise machine, and adds variety to a day out on the water. Not many dinghies will row this well, and it’s an added pleasure to owning a Ness Yawl.

For the Ness Yawl he uses as a “Raid” boat and for light-air lakes, builder Wolfgang Friedl of Vienna, Austria, increased NO NAME 3’s sail area by adding a jib set on a short bowsprit.

Few boats developed from a traditional working boat are as adaptable to small boat sailing as a Ness Yawl, and few are as much fun. It’s worth remembering, however, that it can be adapted to different requirements. The ALBANACH is a Ness Yawl that has been half-decked with built-in buoyancy fore and aft and movable lead ballast. She’s steady in most winds, and can be sailed that much more as a consequence. The ballast is removable for rowing or for light-wind sailing. Again she’s a beautiful boat, and that again is a joy of the Oughtred designs. They sail really well, but the delights of ownership are many and varied. It’s no surprise that the designs sell so well.

Iain Oughtred’s plans for the Ness Yawl are intricately detailed and thoughtful, and he offers enough variations on the sail plan to keep any builder thinking.

Plans for the Ness Yawl are available from Oughtred Boats.

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Comments (6)

This is one I’ve been thinking about, but I would be very tempted to put an outboard well in to use an electric trolling motor when I’m not feeling up to rowing. My sailing abilities put me firmly in the “less adept” category.

You couldn’t find a better boat. I completed my Ness Yawl, WEE BIRLINN, ten years ago and have had so many great adventures aboard. I, too, thought about the outboard well but am glad I didn’t fit it, she rows so well but you hardly ever need to motor. Kathy Mansfield’s comment about drifting downwind in almost no wind and loosing steerage way is the only comment of hers that I would argue with. I have rarely found this a problem, in fact in such really light conditions I can sail rings around boats like the Bayraider 20s.

Given your “less adept” comment, one thing I would recommend is my compromise of using a 32kg (70lb) 1/2″ galvanized mild-steel centerboard (with ply cheeks to take up the full width of the standard centerboard case). We sail in all conditions here on the Western Australian coast, and after my first few sails getting to know her capabilities I would trust the Ness Yawl at sea over and above almost any other small boat.

Check out The Old Gaffers Association of Western Australia to see us in action.

Happy to talk to you more if you do go ahead to build the best ever little ship.

I would like to row solo … is this do-able with this boat? The lines MAKE this vessel!

A bit late to be making a Comment on this one, but one glaring mistake should be corrected. Kathy’s story is very good; she obviously appreciates the Ness Yawl, having sailed my first one, and another in the first Great Glen Raid. However, her excellent photos show a different design! – this is the prototype of the Arctic Tern, which is 18′-2″ OA, and a beam of 5′-1″ instead of the final design at 5′-4″. I wanted a slightly smaller boat, with 6 strakes a side instead of 4, for a maybe more traditional look. (Now there is also a stretched version at 19′-8″). And a more complex sloop rig, to see how it would compare with the balanced lug. There was a slightly awkward statement about the centerboard; an early editor revised it, and somehow decided that the boat did not sail well close-hauled in a very light breeze. Suggested it’s time to get out the oars. Wrong. Both designs sail remarkably well in barely perceptible breezes.

Hi Iain, Of your designs what do you consider the best balanced sail/oar boat for camp cruising for one or two people for a few days?

What are the Ness Yawl’s dimensions?

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Sooty Tern 25 Plans

$ 2.00 – $ 265.00

The Sooty Tern 25 is a graceful extension of the Arctic Tern sailboat with a Gaff Rig and a few more creature comforts for extended cruising.

Sooty Tern 25 information is here .

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The Sooty Tern 25 is available as downloadable study and construction plans, and as printed construction plans. Imperial units.

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