1977 hunter 30 sailboat

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Hunter 30 Review

The Hunter 30 built from 1974 until 1983 is a John Cherubini design, as was the companion Hunter 27. Over the course of its nine-year production run, approximately 1,000 were built. The latest 30 we examined was a 1980 model, hull #934.

The Hunter 30 is handsome from some angles but just a bit too flat in the sheer and high in the cabin top to be considered beautiful. The hull is very full to give a lot of interior room, but otherwise quite typical of the racer-cruisers of the 1970s.

The interior was originally a strong selling point for the boat. Almost every owner commented on the size of the interior – often relative to low price – when talking about their reasons for buying the 30.

Layout is conventional, with a good V-berth forward, then a head with small hanging locker opposite, settee berths on each side with a drop-leaf table in the middle, an L-shaped galley, with the sink underneath the companionway, and a quarter berth, with a tiny chart table at its head. The berths are of decent size, though a tall person will wish they were all a few inches longer.

Many of the boats have alcohol stoves (“Cooks about like a solar oven,” said one owner) that will be due for upgrading. The icebox on the boat we looked at had minimal insulation and would benefit from several more inches all around.

The deck house is high and wide, and this gives a look of spaciousness below. The white hull liner overhead helps to offset the extensive teak veneer on the bulkheads, ceilings, sole, and furniture.

There are adequate windows and hatches for adequate light inside, and opening portlights (Hunter was one of the first production boats to offer numerous opening ports as standard) to give good ventilation. If the boat has not been upgraded by the time of purchase, the new owner will probably want to add Dorade or solar vents to keep the air moving when the opening ports must be closed.

Finish below is average – typical of the low-cost production boats which depend on pre-fab components, rapidly installed in the hull. In our owner surveys, there were a great many complaints about sloppy detailing in the joinerwork, door hinges, hardware, and loose trim. Storage space is minimal, and water tankage of 35 gallons is marginally adequate for cruising.

From the Hunter 30 review. To read the complete review of this popular sailboat, in addition to ten other entry-level cruisers, purchase and download the ebook Entry-Level Sailboats, Volume Two from Practical Sailor .

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1977 Hunter 30

• Description

Seller's Description

Freshwater used on Lake Lanier for most of its life. Powered by a Renault 1 cylinder. The Hunter 30 needs clean up and a main sail. Edson wheel steering. The boat is located on Lake Lanier at Aqua Land and the slip is transferable. The haul out rate is $12/ foot. De-masting is $125.

Equipment: See pics

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Shoal draft: 4.3’. A keel/cb version was also available.

Tall Rig: I: 42.00’/12.80m J: 12.83’/3.91m P: 37.00’/11.28m E: 10.70’ / 3.26m Total (100% main +fore.): 467.38 ft2/43.42 m2 an unfinished (kit) version was called the QUEST 30.

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1980 Hunter Cherubini

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1977 Hunter 30, Go or No Go?

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Hi ya'll. I am a college student in Charleston, SC. My grand plan is to live aboard on a mooring in Charleston Harbor (and on my friends couches) for my final semester next fall. After that I hope to head South to Florida and maybe down the islands. One of the boats I am looking at is a 1977 Hunter 30. It is the full draft model with a 25hp universal diesel. The boat comes fully equipped with solar panels, dingy, life raft, EPIRB and all electronics. I have seen some negative comments on Hunters and was wanting to get some more feedback. Provided I pick my days, would this boat suffice for island hopping? Any advice on good boats for this purpose in the 30-35 foot range would be greatly appreciated. My budget is about $12000 +/-. Thanks, Colin  

The jury is kind of split on Hunters. There are some who own and sail them and are very happy with them. Some not so. I think that the consensus is that they are not the best built boat out there, but suitable for light-duty use i.e.: you don't want to get caught in heavy weather in one. Personally, I would think that a boat of that size, for that price will have problems that need to be rectified before you leave the dock for anything more than an afernoon's sail. Not because it is a Hunter, but because it is a 30 foot boat for $12,000.00. If you think the boat is in great shape, then go ahead and get a survey done. If you have doubts, my recommendation would be to look at smaller boats in better shape. They are still quite capable of doing what you want.  

Hunter had earned a reputation for making shoddy boats for a while...which is probably how they survived when other boat makers went belly up. The Hunter 30 Cherubinis are fairly well respected when many of the others are not...but I don't know whether the boat you are looking at is a Cherubini model. Many boats are capable of island hopping if you pick your weather window very carefully. However, there are many boats that would be better suited for what you're planning on doing. If you're planning on single-handing the boat, it might be wise to look at some slightly smaller boats... The Cape Dory 28 comes to mind, as do the Pearson Ariels and Tritons. Living aboard requires a shift in mindset. Are you sure you're ready to do that? It also, generally, requires getting rid of most of your possessions, since a boat has rather limited stowage.  

Thanks for the replies. I looked into it, and I can't tell whether this boat is the Cherubini model or not, but I think he redesigned the 30 the next year. The boat looks to be in excellent condition. Here is the link to the boat B.M.S.& S.Inc. Dba Indiantown Yacht Sales (Indiantown, FL) I looked at the Cape Dories and Pearsons and the only ones within my meager price range looked like they need a lot of work. I also need a boat with a head/shower to avoid offending my classmates. As far as the change in lifestyle, I think I can handle it. I don't have much stuff and I don't use most of what I have, so why not get rid of it. Peace, Colin  

Don't go near it !!!! The $3,000.00 NON-REFUNDABLE deposit tells you right now that the boat has a problem that shows up on survey. This is a highly unusual stipulation. I might go so far as to say unique. Buy this one - it is twice the boat. B.M.S.& S.Inc. Dba Indiantown Yacht Sales (Indiantown, FL) Also think about the one that is listed as "Owner Built Sloop". B.M.S.& S.Inc. Dba Indiantown Yacht Sales (Indiantown, FL) That boat looks a lot like a Cape Dory or an Alberg (maybe an early Bristol) - all of which are very desirable boats. GO in and offer him $2,500.00 and then spend a little while fixing it up. Believe me - it is well worth it !  

If your mooring is at a marina, then you would likely be able to use the shower facilities at the marina. Using a shower on a boat, especially a smaller boat, is no fun... it tends to leave the boat a mess, make it smell, and create a good environment for mold aboard the boat. BTW, looking at the ad for that boat, I saw several big warning signs. First, they say the boat is "AS IS". Second, they say that there are no refunds on the deposit. I'd also be curious as to how a boat that is homeported in Nevada City, CA ended up in Florida. Maybe, I'm just more cynical and suspicious than you are... but a lot of boats down in Florida and the Gulf Coast area that are being sold for cheap, that look like really good bargains, are hurricane salvage boats.  

I agree with SD..."as is" and "no refund" of deposit are big warnign signs. I also worry about what nice new paint jobs on engines are covering up. It is just too cheap to not have problems. As to living on a mooring in Charleston harbor...I thought they were taking out the moorings and I also thought that live aboards were not permitted there. That is a wicked place to try to live on a boat anyway given the currents, chop and traffic. Do you KNOW that you will be allowed to do what you are proposing if you DO get a boat? Great town...good luck!  

I actually had some of the same questions about the moorings. I called the Charleston Coast Guard Station and Charleston City Marina and as far as either of them could tell me no one controls the mooring field. Coast Guard just said as long as you are not in the channel, it is all fair game.  

Fishstick- Who owns the moorings then???  

As far as the Coast Guard knew, no one owns the moorings. I guess it is just a free for all.  

Fishstick...the city marina used to collect rents on those moorings...If I recall correctly, they stopped because of the condition of the moorings and did not want to or did not have the funds to replace them. Someone local there should know the full story. Are they simply sitting there free now? In any event, when they were actively rented they were fine for a night or two for transients or for keeping a boat on weekends. As I said earlier...they are quite exposed in a blow, the current and tidal forces are significant and it is a long way in to the docks in a dinghy if the weather kicks up. (BTW...where will you tie up your dinghy?) It would not be my choice for a place to try to live aboard. Also...with limited tank storage on that hunter...you're going to have a lot of pump out trips and expenses...and with the coast guard a hundred yards away...I would think that you'd be subject to frequent inspection as a live aboard. If I were trying to live at anchor in the Charleston area...I'd be looking for someplace up a creek...not in the main harbor.  

I run from anything that had a non-refundable deposit. period.  

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Hunter 30 ('77) Ports and Side Window

• Thread starter Texas Mitch
• Start date Apr 7, 2011
• Hunter Owner Forums
• Mid-Size Boats

Texas Mitch

Ahoy Fellow Hunter 30 Captains; I'm up to my neck updating a '77 Hunter 30, which among other things needs new ports. I'm replacing all five (5) "opening" ports in the cabin with 512 Beckson ports - which install easily and look great. However, I can not find any information on the fixed side windows which are approximately 7" x 36" (have one angled (slated) end). Does anyone know where to get these replacements? In lieu of replacing, it would help if someone knows how the outside trim is removed without breaking. I could possibly fix a small leak without replacing the whole window. Has anyone had experience with trim removal? Thanks in advance for any inputs or suggestions. Mitch Wind Dancer  

Don Crowther

Mitch Are the fixed port frames made of plastic or metal? If they are plastic you may have a problem removing them. The po may have used something like 3m 5200 to seal them in place. You could try using a putty knife to pry between the frame and cabin. If you do get it between try working your way around the entire port before you pry. Have you tried doing a search for port removals under owner mods? I seem to remember someone building a new frame out of pvc.  

I replaced my ports with the 5x12 Newfound TriMatrix, several posts in the archives from various users that have done this. For the fixed windows, I ordered custom made from Bomon, in Canada. They are Aluminum frames and easy to install, gasketed, with no sealant required. The price was only slightly more than what was reported for replacements from Marks Plastics. http://bomon.com/fixed.htm  

Don Crowther said: Mitch Are the fixed port frames made of plastic or metal? If they are plastic you may have a problem removing them. The po may have used something like 3m 5200 to seal them in place. You could try using a putty knife to pry between the frame and cabin. If you do get it between try working your way around the entire port before you pry. Have you tried doing a search for port removals under owner mods? I seem to remember someone building a new frame out of pvc. Click to expand

BStevenson said: I replaced my ports with the 5x12 Newfound TriMatrix, several posts in the archives from various users that have done this. For the fixed windows, I ordered custom made from Bomon, in Canada. They are Aluminum frames and easy to install, gasketed, with no sealant required. The price was only slightly more than what was reported for replacements from Marks Plastics. http://bomon.com/fixed.htm Click to expand

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Collection: hunter 30, coastal 135% furling genoa - 39.30m, coastal 150% furling genoa - 39.30l, coastal mainsail - 33.80l, mainsail cover - 12.0 ft boom, flexible furler ff7 (max headstay: 47'), c-320 coastal furling system (std headstay: 46'), cruising asymmetrical spinnaker - size 5, storm trysail - 16.0, gale sail - 16.0, storm jib - 18.0, cruising asymmetrical spinnaker for top down furling - size 5.

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