anchor for sailboat

7 Best Sailboat Anchors

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

June 15, 2022

As long as it's the right one, your sailboat anchor is the best insurance you'll ever buy.

The right sailboat anchor will depend on the type and size of your sailboat, your planned area of sailing, and the weather conditions that you expect to encounter. So there are no shortcuts but to choose the best sailboat anchors based on these factors.

Anchoring, at its core, is all about securely fastening your sailboat using the best sailboat anchor so that it doesn't float away when the winds or tides start shifting.

And whether you're planning for a day's fishing trip to your nearest lake or going for an offshore voyage, an anchor is unquestionably essential in ensuring the safety of both you and your sailboat.

A good anchor not only gives you the much-needed peace of mind but gives you the ability to securely anchor your sailboat on a nice bay, grab a quick lunch, or explore the nearby reefs.

More importantly, you'll appreciate the importance of choosing the best sailboat anchor for your boat when you have to ride out a storm.

There are lots of excellent sailboat anchors that are a great fit for your boat. The most important is to understand what makes a high-quality anchor so that you can make an informed choice when buying the best sailboat anchor for you and your vessel. This will depend on things like the size and type of your sailboat, where you want to sail to, and the projected weather and the type of bottom of where you'll be sailing at.

Needless to say, there are a lot of sailboat anchors out there that it can be very confusing. In this article, we'll discuss how to choose the best sailboat anchor for your boat. More importantly, we've done thorough research and review the best sailboat anchors just to make the process of choosing the best sailboat anchor for you as easy as possible.

Table of contents

How to Choose the Best Sailboat Anchor

Choosing the best sailboat anchor on various things such as the type and size of your boat, the type of bottom where you're planning to anchor your boat on, the weather conditions, and many more. For example, anchoring a 24-feet sailing boat on a muddy bottom will not be the same when using the same anchor when anchoring a 49-feet sailboat on a rocky bottom. More importantly, choosing the best sailboat is all about finding the right balance in terms of the size of your boat, the type of the bottom where you're sailing at, the climate conditions, and the amount of time that you're planning to be anchored.

Here is what you need to consider.

The Size of Your Boat

The size of your boat will determine the type of anchor that's appropriate based on its weight and resistance. For example, a claw anchor can be great for boats measuring between 16 feet and 50 feet. In essence, having a bigger boat will require an anchor that is bigger and has more holding power. On the other hand, a smaller anchor with less holding power will be ideal for a smaller boat.

Your Anchoring Time

The holding power of your anchor can be affected by the amount of time you are planning to anchor your boat. If you're planning to anchor your boat for longer periods, it would make a lot of sense to have an anchor with high holding power. Differently, you can go with an anchor with less holding power if you're planning to anchor your boat for a few hours.

The Bottom Type

The shape and sharpness of an anchor will determine how good an anchor can hold your boat in different types of bottoms. For example, claw anchors can struggle in rocks and corals but work perfectly in sand and mud. On the contrary, grapnel types of anchors can work great in rocks but don't work in sand or mud. It all depends on the bottom type of the area you're planning to sail at. 

Anchor Material

The type of material used in manufacturing the anchor is of great importance in terms of its functionality, reliability, and durability. Most anchors are galvanized to prevent them from rust and also for a better price. However, stainless steel anchors offer better anchors in terms of quality and aesthetics.

Without further ado, let's jump straight in.

1. Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor

(Best for Larger Boats)

Although several modern types of sailboat anchors have taken the anchor industry by storm, some traditional anchor designs still hold their ground today and the Lewmar Galvanized Delta Sailing Anchor is one of them. It's designed with a single, sharply pointed wedge fluke that has a similar shape to a plow and really gets into the ground. It digs down and holds so secure for larger boats measuring over 21 feet.

This is a superb sailboat anchor that performs exceptionally well on most bottom types save for rocks. You'll love the fact that it holds extremely well in softer bottoms such as sand and mud. This anchor is made from high-grade manganese steel and is galvanized with a protective layer of zinc to prevent it from rusting. It's also more light than most anchors so stowing and transportation shouldn't be a problem.

Having been a hallmark anchor for many years, this anchor guarantees reliability and will hold excellently even in stormy conditions. Launching it is also easy thanks to its ballasted tip and streamlined shank and will set the first time thanks to its self-righting design.

• ‍ Perfect for larger boats
• Very durable
• Approved by several National Lifeboat Associations
• Comes with a perpetual guarantee against breakage
• Easy to launch
• Very secure
• ‍ Quite expensive
• Requires tripping line to release it from the seabed
• Not great for rocky bottom

2. Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor

(Best for Changing Weather Conditions)

As the best-selling sailboat anchor currently available in the market, it's easy to see why the Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor is the most highly rated anchor by multiple independent reviewers. Built for strength and versatility, this anchor works great with a wide range of boats, which is a very unique feature. Coming in sizes ranging from 9 to 606 pounds, this anchor is so versatile and gives you the option of choosing the right size for your sailboat.

This remains the most dependable anchor in the market, especially in the roughest of conditions. It holds all types of the seabed so fast and has a roll bar that's crucial in ensuring that your boat's weight is not only distributed appropriately but the boat sets at the right angle. Its Vulcan design and sharp tip allow it to snug fit on the bow and to get right into the seabed respectively.

This is an anchor that draws the best features from traditional sailboat anchors such as spade and bagel anchors to become one of the best modern sailboat anchors out there.

• ‍ Perfect for stormy conditions
• Great for all types of seabed
• Very versatile and available in a wide range of sizes
• Perfect for all types of boats
• It has an easy storage design
• It's designed by a well-known brand
• ‍ Very expensive
• ‍ Its shank is only perfect for  bigger flukes

3. Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor

(The Fastest Setting and Highest Holding Anchor)

If you're looking to purchase the best sailboat anchor from a well-established brand, look no further than the Manson Galvanized Supreme Sailing Anchor. This anchor has been in the market for the better part of the last two decades and still holds its ground as one of the best sailboat anchors out there. The fact that it is perfect for all types of seabed makes it a great option for sailors who are on a budget.

This sailboat anchor has an indisputable reputation all over the world as the fastest setting and highest holding anchor. This is because it's uniquely designed for extreme holding conditions thanks to its standard bow rollers and a dual operation shank that's designed with the utmost versatility in mind. Whether you're looking to anchor in mud, sand, or rocky areas, this anchor will never disappoint you.

• ‍ It has an extremely high holding power
• It's the fastest setting anchor in the market
• It's perfect for all types of seabed including rocky areas
• Its safety is guaranteed as it has passed multiple tests
• It's very durable
• Designed for extreme weather conditions
• ‍ It's heavy, which can bring difficulties in stowing and transportation
• Very expensive

4. Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor

(Best for Smaller Boats)

At this point, you shouldn't have any doubt that some of the more traditional types of anchors still have a place in the anchor industry today. The Danforth S-600 Standard Sailing Anchor is a traditional fluke anchor that's extremely perfect for smaller boats but can also be used as a secondary anchor for larger boats. Having been developed in the US back in the 1940s, this type of anchor is similar to the modern CQR anchor and doesn't compromise on quality and reliability even in rough weather conditions.

It's lighter than most anchors, so stowing or transporting it shouldn't be a problem. In terms of its holding power, it has an excellent power-to-weight ratio and can hold quite fast in sand and mud. The fact that it is a fluke type of anchor makes it not perfect for coral, rock, or gravel bottoms.

• ‍ Perfect for smaller boats
• It's good for sandy and muddy substrates
• Lightweight and compact
• Has a holding power of about 600 pounds
• Constructed with high-strength galvanized steel
• Quite affordable 
• ‍ Not ideal for rock, coral, or gravel substrates
• Can only be used as a secondary anchor on larger boats (over 27 feet)
• It has moving parts

5. Lewmar Claw Anchor

(Best for All Types of Seabed)

If you're looking for the best sailboat anchor that will serve you perfectly in all types of substrates, the Lewmar Claw Anchor can be an ideal choice. Previously known as the Bruce or Claw type anchor, this anchor has a three-pronged design that enables it to easily set in any bottom. It doesn't matter whether you want to anchor in an area with mud, sand, rock, coral, gravel, or grassy bottom, this anchor will hold its ground.

It can be a great option if you're on a tight budget and want to buy an anchor that doesn't have a complete design while going about its duty quietly. It's so versatile thanks to the fact that it's available in sizes ranging from 4.4 pounds to 44 pounds. What's more; it's made from high-grade steel and it's very durable. If anything, it draws inspiration from the anchors used in securing oil rigs in the North Sea. 

• ‍ Excellent for all types of substrates
• It's very versatile
• It's durable
• It's very affordable
• ‍ Its odd shape makes it difficult to stow

6. Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor

(Perfect for Dense Grassy Bottoms)

The level of functionality that the Mantus Galvanized Sailing Anchor brings to the table is unmatched. This is an anchor that offers unparalleled holding power as it can dig a lot deeper than most anchors out there.

It's strongly built but can come apart to make it a lot easy to store and transport. Its sharp-headed nose gives it maximum penetration power, though it may not hold quite well in low viscosity sea beds. This anchor is highly dependable yet very expensive so it might not be an ideal option if you're on a budget. So if functionality is your top priority when going to an area with dense grassy bottoms, it can be your ideal option. 

• ‍ Very functional and dependable
• Perfect for dense grassy bottoms
• Easy to store and transport
• Made from high-quality steel
• Comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage
• ‍ It has moving parts
• It's very expensive

7. Norestar Stainless Steel Delta/Wing Boat Sailing Anchor

(Highest Quality Anchor)

One of the most important things when in the market for a good sailboat anchor is quality. Well, the Norestar doesn't disappoint on this front as it's manufactured using the highest quality stainless steel. This stainless steel is strengthened with micron thick PVD coating that gives it a highly urbane appearance.

Its design is also one of the most popular anchoring systems in the maritime industry today. This is because it offers impeccable security and gives you the peace of mind knowing that your boat is safe at all times.

• ‍ It is self-launching
• Made from the highest quality stainless steel
• It sets easily
• Perfect for most bottoms
• It's lightweight and has no moving parts
• ‍ Not ideal for bottoms with hard sand
• Quite expensive

There you have it; these are the best sailboat anchors in the market. An anchor is one of the most crucial parts of safe sailing. Whether you're looking to moor at the harbor or to explore far-reaching areas in the water, a good anchor is your number safety and insurance while on the water.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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The 5 Best Sailboat Anchors

A good anchor for a sailboat will help keep a vessel stationary and stable in the water in any weather conditions or marine environment.

There are a number of top anchors for sailing boats that can work on sailboats of both small and large sizes of under 20ft to over 100ft.

The best sailboat anchors are:

• Best Overall : Mantus Marine M1 Mantus Anchor
• Best For Holding Boat : Lewmar Claw Anchor
• Best For Price : Seachoice Utility Anchor
• Best For Small Sailboats : Fortress FX-11 Anchor
• Best For Large Sailboats : Rocna Galvanized Anchor

These anchors will ensure the sailboat is anchoring properly in any sailing conditions.

Sailboat owners should choose an anchor based on the size and type of their sailboat as well as the type of marine environment their vessel will be located in.

For example, anchoring a sailboat on a sandy surface is different than anchoring a sailboat on a rocky surface and it will require different anchors.

1. M1 Mantus Galvanized Anchor

The best overall sailboat anchor is the M1 Mantus anchor manufactured by the brand Mantus Marine in Texas, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best overall anchor because it can dig deep into the seafloor and ensure the sailing vessel will not float away.

The M1 Mantus anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel with the shank and shank boot welded from top to bottom.

It is a plow anchor shaped with a sharp triangle-shaped nose, a straight shank and a "U" shaped roll bar bolted to a fluke.

This anchor comes in many different sizes from 8lbs to 175lbs. It comes with 4 American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) certified bolts.

The M1 Mantus anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sandy, gravel, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky sea floors.

The M1 Mantus can be used in different types of locations including rivers, sea and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 20ft to 65ft can use the M1 Mantus anchor.

The M1 Mantus anchor is priced between $180 for the smallest 8lb anchor to approximately $3,000 for the largest 175lb anchor at most retailers.

The M1 Mantus anchor works to hold a vessel in position in winds of up to 40 knots, highlighting its great holding power abilities.

The benefits of the M1 Mantus anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Mantus Marine manufacturer offers a lifetime warranty on this anchor for added peace of mind
• It can be disassembled easily for storage : Simple disassembling bolts make it easy for storing this anchor when it is not in use
• Multiple size options : With anchor size options from 8lbs to 175lbs, sailboat owners of different vessel sizes, from small sailboats of 20ft to large sailboats of 65ft can use this anchor
• It works in multiple marine conditions : This anchor works in multiple marine conditions from calm ocean currents to extremely windy and storm conditions with up to 40 knots of wind speed
• High-performance sharp head nose enables easy penetration of the sea floor : The sharp edge nose of this anchor means it penetrates the ocean floor fast and with ease
• It is hot dipped galvanized for corrosion prevention : This anchor is hot dipped galvanized giving it extra protection against corrosion and wear from corrosive seawater
• It comes with 4 high-quality oversized A.S.T.M. certified bolts : This anchor comes with 4 oversized bolts with a large margin of safety that will help prevent damage

One disadvantage of the M1 Mantus anchor is it is more expensive than other anchors on the market.

M1 Mantas Anchor On Amazon →

M1 Mantas Anchor On eBay →

2. Lewmar Claw Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for its holding power is the Lewmar Claw anchor manufactured by the brand Lewmar in Hampshire, United Kingdom and sold worldwide.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is constructed of high-grade galvanized steel cast in a single piece. This anchor was inspired and designed based on anchors used to secure oil rigs in the North Sea.

The Lewmar Claw anchor comes in sizes from 2.2lbs to 176lbs. It is used on seabed surfaces including sandy, muddy, gravel and grassy ocean floors. It is not used on rocky surfaces.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including ocean, lake and river floors.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to 65ft can use the Lewmar Claw anchor.

The Lewmar Claw anchor is priced between approximately $30 for the smallest 2.2lb anchor to approximately $1,300 for the largest 176lb anchor at most retailers.

The Lewmar Claw anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 50 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Lewmar Claw anchor are:

• It's fast setting : Depending on the sea depth, this anchor can set and begin anchoring a vessel in under 5 minutes
• It has great holding power : This anchor can help with anchoring boats in position in extremely harsh weather conditions with winds up to 50 knots
• Easy bow roller storable : This anchor can fit and store nicely in most bow roller shapes and styles without any issues
• It's a budget-friendly anchor : The Lewmar Claw anchor is one of the cheapest on the market and it should be within most sailboat owner's budget with the most expensive anchor sold at a price of approximately $1,300
• It's built with strong & high-quality material : The Lewmar Claw is built with high-quality and heat-treated steel with a galvanized finish

One disadvantage of the Lewmar Claw anchor is it does not come with a lifetime warranty.

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Amazon →

Lewmar Claw Anchor On Walmart →

3. Seachoice Utility Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for the price is the Seachoice Utility anchor manufactured by the brand Seachoice in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for the price because it offers the most options for the cheapest price on the market.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is constructed of hot-dipped galvanized steel or PVC-coated steel. It comes in 5 different color options including red, black, white, light blue and grey.

This anchor comes in different sizes from 4.5lbs to 8.5lbs.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is priced at approximately $25 for the smallest 4.5lb anchor to approximately $70 for the larger 8.5lb anchor at most retailers.

The Seachoice Utility anchor is used on different seabed surfaces including gravel, sand, grassy and muddy sea floors. It is not used on rocky seafloors.

The Seachoice anchor can be used in different types of marine locations including the sea, rivers and lakes.

Sailboat sizes of 10ft to 30ft can use the Seachoice Utility anchor.

The Seachoice Utility anchor can hold a sailboat in position and keep it anchored in wind speeds up to 30 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Seachoice Utility anchor are:

• It comes with a 1-year warranty : The Seachoice Utility anchor comes with a 1-year manufacturers warranty for added peace of mind
• It comes in multiple color options : Sailboat owners can choose from 5 different anchor colors
• It's easy to retrieve from the seawater : This anchor comes with a great slip-ring design that makes it easy to retrieve it from the water after use
• Sharp anchor fluke design makes penetration easy : The sharp fluke design helps the anchor to easily penetrate the seafloor surface
• It is cheap : The Seachoice Utility anchor is the cheapest anchor on the market with the largest anchor priced at approximately $70

Two disadvantages of the Seachoice Utility anchor are the anchor can only be used on smaller sailboats up to 30ft in length and it can not be used on larger sailboats over 30ft and the anchor can not be used on rocky sea floors.

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Amazon →

Seachoice Utility Anchor On Walmart →

4. Fortress FX-11 Anchor

The best sailboat anchor for small sailboats is the Fortress FX-11 anchor manufactured by the brand Fortress Marine Anchors in Florida, America and sold worldwide.

This fluke anchor is the best for small boats because its lightweight aluminum material is capable of holding a sailboat up to 32ft without the anchor being extra heavy.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is constructed of aluminum alloy material and it comes in a size of 7lbs.

It comes with a pivot adjustment which allows an adjustment of the anchor angle between 32° to 45°.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is used on seafloor surfaces including sand, gravel, mud and grassy surfaces. It is not used on rocky seafloor surfaces.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor can be used in different marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of between 28ft to 32ft can use the FX-11 anchor.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor is priced at approximately $200 at most retailers.

The Fortress FX-11 anchor works to hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 30 knots without the vessel floating away.

The benefits of the Fortress FX-11 anchor are:

• It's rustproof : The light but strong aluminum material is rustproof meaning the anchor will not suffer from rusting caused by the corrosive seawater
• It comes with a lifetime parts warranty : The Fortress FX-11 anchor comes with a lifetime parts replacement warranty against damage that might occur to any parts of the anchor
• It is easy to store after use : It can be easily disassembled which means it is easy to store onboard the sailboat after using it#
• Penetrates the seafloor and sets deeper : The sharp edge d anchor allows it to easily penetrate seafloors and anchor a boat

One disadvantage of the Fortress FX-11 anchor is it can only be used on smaller sailboats between 28ft to 32ft and it cannot be used on larger sailing vessels over 32ft.

Fortress FX-11 On Amazon →

Fortress FX-11 On Walmart →

5. Rocna Galvanized Anchor

The best anchor for larger sailboats is the Rocna galvanized steel anchor manufactured by the brand Rocna in British Columbia, Canada and sold worldwide.

The Rocna anchor is constructed of galvanized steel with solid welding from top to bottom.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor was designed by New Zealand sailor Peter Smith.

The Rocna anchor design comes with a roll-bar to ensure the anchor can penetrate the surface at the best angle and one-third of the anchor's weight is on the fluke tip which also helps with the penetration of the seafloor surface.

The Rocna anchor comes in 14 different sizes from 9lbs to 606lbs.

This fluke anchor is the best for larger sailboats because it offers anchors up to 606lbs which will help with anchoring most larger sailing vessels.

The Rocna anchor can be used on all sea surfaces from gravel, mud, sand, clay, kelp and rocks. It can also be used in marine locations including lakes, rivers and the sea.

Sailboat sizes of 12ft to over 300ft can use the Rocna galvanized steel anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor is priced between approximately $220 for the smallest 9lbs anchor to approximately $12,000 for the largest 606lb anchor.

The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can hold a sailing vessel in position in winds up to 40 knots without the boat floating away.

The benefits of the Rocna galvanized anchor are:

• It comes with a great lifetime warranty : The Rocna galvanized anchor comes with a lifetime warranty against breakage, manufacturing defects and bending for added peace of mind
• It can be used on all sea surfaces : The Rocna galvanized steel anchor can be used on all sea surfaces including gravel, sand, mud and rocky sea floors and it is not limited or restricted to just a few types of surfaces
• It sets fast : The sharp edge fluke helps penetrate the sea surface and the anchor sets fast as a result of this design

One disadvantage of the Rocna anchor is it is not the cheapest anchor with the cheapest price at approximately $220.

Rocna Anchor On Amazon →

Top Sailboat Anchors Comparison Table

What to consider when buying a sailboat anchor.

The factors to consider before buying a sailboat anchor are:

• Type of material used : The type of material used to create the anchor is an important consideration when buying a sailboat anchor. Most modern anchors are constructed using aluminum steel or galvanized steel
• Durability : How long the anchor can last is a factor to consider when buying a sailboat anchor. Modern anchors come with lifetime warranties and they should last for well over 10 years
• Size Of The Boat : Identifying the proper anchor size for a boat is not a perfect science but the size of your boat is an extremely important factor to consider when choosing a top sailboat anchor. Typically, the larger the boat size, the bigger the anchor that is required
• Price : Price will also play a big role in the sailboat anchor you buy. Anchors come in many different prices for many different budgets

Frequently Asked Questions About The Best Sailboat Anchors

Below are the most common and frequently asked questions about the top sailing vessel anchors.

What Are The Best Sailboat Anchor Brands?

The best sailboat anchor brands are:

• Five Oceans Danforth Style
• Mantus Marine

Are Top Sailing Boat Anchors Expensive?

No, top sailboat anchors are not expensive with some of the best sailboat anchors priced as little as $25 in some instances.

What Are The Different Types Of Sailboat Anchors Available For Sailboat Owners?

The types of sailboat anchors available are:

• Fluke anchors
• Plow anchors
• Claw anchors
• Mushroom anchors
• Grapnel anchors

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to choose the right anchor

• February 23, 2015

Which of the many anchor designs is best for your boat? Vyv Cox helps you choose the best anchor for your style of cruising

Holding power is a crucial consideration, but it isn’t the only one. There’s also holding stability, penetration, strength, ability to re-set, ease of retrieval… Credit: Pierre Martin-Razi

Until the 1930s, there was little choice when it came to purchasing an anchor, the Fisherman being just about the only type available. In 1933, keen yachtsman Sir Geoffrey Ingram Taylor, a professor at Trinity College, Cambridge, invented the CQR. Yachting Monthly published his paper, The Holding Power of Anchors, in April 1934. Designs began to proliferate in the late 1980s and now we have close on 100 options. This is a guide to the types available and how best to select for the sort of anchoring you do. Read on to discover what we think are the 8 key attributes you need to consider when choosing your anchor. However, If you know what you’re looking for in an anchor and want to skip to our recommended choice then click here .

There was no alternative to the Fisherman anchor until Yachting Monthly published Sir Geoffrey Ingram Taylor’s design for the CQR in 1934

The 8 key attributes of a good anchor

1. materials.

Most anchors are galvanised steel

Most anchors are steel, galvanised for corrosion resistance. The carbon content should be below 0.21% to ensure ductility at all likely temperatures. In general, the flukes will be standard mild steel and the shank a constructional steel, perhaps with high manganese content, or HSLA (high strength, low alloy).

Aluminium is good for kedge anchors

Aluminium and stainless steel anchors require either sophisticated alloying or clever design features, such as hollow shanks, to obtain sufficient strength. This makes them expensive. Performance is generally satisfactory, perhaps not quite as good as steel equivalents. Aluminium’s light weight makes it ideal for kedge anchors and both materials offer good corrosion resistance.

There is still a widespread belief that a good anchor is aways a heavy anchor. This may well be true for some of the older types, in which the flukes’ tip loading was not maximised, and where the anchor sinks into the seabed under the influence of its own weight, known as ‘static setting’. It certainly holds true for Fisherman anchors.

However, the excellent performance of various types of aluminium anchor, both in tests and in the real world, shows quite clearly that weight is not necessarily a prerequisite for good holding power. It is a truism that anchors are marketed by weight but they hold by their area. Most modern anchors have a lot more surface area than older types of the same weight.

3. Penetration (sharpness)

An anchor with blunt flukes and an unballasted tip, such as this claw, won’t penetrate the substrate deeply

The key to achieving almost instantaneous penetration of the sea bed with a pull on the cable – known as ‘dynamic setting’ – is to maximise the weight acting on the tip of the anchor. If there is one factor that differentiates the ‘new generation’ anchors from the rest, this is it.

An anchor with sharp flukes and a ballasted tip, such as this Bügel, should burrow deep into the sea bed

Designers of new generation anchors (and some older ones, such as the Lewmar Delta) have maximised tip loading by adding weight in this area, either with lead or thicker steel, but also by reducing the weight of other components to the minimum required, for example the shank and flukes. When an anchor is at rest in the upright position, the only points in contact with the ground should be the tip and the far end of the shank. The angle that the fluke makes with the3 shank contributes to penetration once the tip has entered the bottom: the optimum angle for this is about 35°.

4. Fluke shape

Most older anchor designs have convex flukes

This means you can end up ploughing the sea bed

Flukes on new-generation anchors are concave, or perhaps flat, whereas on older anchors they are mostly convex. The great advantage of the concave shape is that once the tip has penetrated the bottom, it tends to dig itself ever deeper.

The flukes of newer designs tend to be concave

New generation anchors’ better tip weight and concave flukes combine to dig them well in

Indeed, these anchors can be difficult to break out of the sea bed after riding out a big blow. The combination of good penetration and efficient fluke shape achieves rapid dynamic setting, typically with a pull on the cable of one metre or less.

5. Shank shape

To improve overall weight distribution, the heavy, forged designs of yesteryear have been replaced by far thinner ones, stamped or cut from plate. Forged shanks had their advantages – their H or I shape gave them considerable lateral stiffness. To restore this stiffness, the flat plate of a modern shank must have high yield strength (400 to 800MPa). This is difficult to achieve in metals other than carbon steel. Shank shape is a strong contributory factor in dynamic setting. Unfortunately, a long, curved shank won’t stow on some yachts’ bow rollers.

6. Cost and value for money

New-generation anchors are expensive, due in part to advanced materials and construction methods but perhaps also to recoup development and marketing costs. At the other end of the scale are copies, cheaply made from low-grade materials, often sold online. In between lie the relatively recent plough anchors, Delta and Kobra II.

A genuine CQR is probably the most expensive steel anchor on sale, thanks to its forged construction. Expect to pay over £1,000 for a new-generation stainless steel anchor.

If you regularly spend long periods in remote anchorages, you’ll certainly reap the benefits of the more expensive types. Modern ploughs are about a third of the price of new-generation types and almost as effective in most circumstances – perfectly good for weekend and summer-cruise use. Occasional anchorers may well find a copy to be acceptable, unless it breaks or bends!

7. Resetting

Some anchors will ‘break out’ of the sea bed when the direction of pull changes

The best anchors stay put and swivel to face the new direction of pull

A bower anchor should reset itself when tide or wind change direction. Many newer designs can swivel in position without breaking out, but some anchors, most notably the flat types, tend to break out and skip across the surface of harder bottoms. Another problem with flat anchors, inevitable due to their design, is that chain dragging across the bottom can wedge between the shank and the flukes, preventing the anchor from resetting at all until the blockage has been freed.

8. Holding stability

The shape of a high-performance anchor also gives a subtle advantage. Older designs, both plough and flat, are unstable at higher loads, so they roll out and reset repeatedly, sometimes over a fair old distance. Not all plough anchors are unstable but those with a hinge almost certainly are.

Graphs from holding trials by the late Alain Poiraud: a hinged plough anchor grips and slips; a new generation anchor holds

Some anchors roll out of the sea bed under high load

The best ones just dig in deeper

What’s the best anchor for you and your boat?

For typical cruising use, and a peaceful night’s sleep at anchor, go for a modern plough

For maximum performance in extreme conditions, choose either a very heavy anchor of an older type or a somewhat lighter new generation anchor.

The Delta is Vyv’s choice for general-purpose cruising use

Many published tables give recommended anchor weights for boat length and in the past it has been widely accepted that going one or even two sizes bigger would offer the greatest anchoring security in the worst conditions. But new-generation anchors are different: when I bought mine, I was told the recommended size was sufficient for all foreseeable conditions. I cannot claim to have tested it to the limit, but after winds of around 50 knots it has been so deeply buried that I had great difficulty in recovering it.

For long-term cruising, or ultimate holding in storms, a new generation anchor is worth its hefty price tag

In my opinion, the Delta offers the optimum balance between performance and cost for the average cruising yacht. I replaced a 25lb CQR with a 25lb Delta more than 20 years ago, welcoming the step change in setting that it provided. We never dragged until that time in Greece, in mud with the consistency of thick custard. Deltas, and the similar Kobra II, are typically well under half the price of most new-generation anchors. The Kobra’s long, curved, shank is problematic to stow on some boats.

If you only want a ‘lunch hook’ for occasional use in fair weather, a cheap ‘copy’ anchor should suffice

Copy anchors have their place, for occasional anchoring at very low cost. They’re fine for lunch stops and overnights in light airs. For anything else, use the original article.

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Selecting the Right Anchor Size

Holding power increases with weight, but how much is hard to calculate..

Over the years Practical Sailor has conducted dozens of anchor tests, and like many publications, we’ve repeated the common guidance that cruising sailors should buy an anchor that is at least one size larger than what the maker recommends for your size vessel.

During the last two decades, however, the tremendous holding power of some newer generation anchors have caused us to re-think this guidance. Are we paying more for an anchor, rode, and the requisite anchor handling equipment than we need? How accurate are the makers size recommendations? How much insurance are we really getting for the price of a bigger anchor?

For this report we took a range of modern, sometimes called new generation anchors, and their predecessors and averaged their weight vs. vessel size recommendations (see accompanying table). Much to our surprise, the weight recommendations for the new designs, Rocna, Excel, Supreme, etc. are very similar to the weight recommendation for the older, traditional models, CQR, Delta, Bruce etc. In both cases, the recommendation for a 35-foot yacht is approximately a 30-pound anchor. The exceptions are aluminum anchors from Fortress and Spade.

Most of the new generation anchors have been tested to international standards established by the RINA (Registro Italian Naval) or some other internationally recognized society. Rocna, Fortress, Supreme, Excel, Spade have been found to meet standards of Super High Holding Power, SHHP. The older anchors, CQR, Bruce, Delta are rated as High Holding Power. The difference between the two categories is that the SHHP have been tested and found to have a hold, comparing anchors of the same weight, that is two times that of the HHP anchors.

So if we’re getting double the holding power, does that mean we can use an anchor that is half the weight? Not necessarily. Nor can you expect another doubling of holding power by doubling the weight of an SHHP anchor.

Despite the sales pitch that the new anchors have greater holding capacity pound-for-pound, the anchor makers are suggesting that you replace your old CQR with the same weight new anchor. It appears that manufacturers are, in effect, doubling the historic safety factor. And for a cautious sailor, there is nothing wrong with this.

However, consider the advice that is often repeated on internet forums, or the local scuttlebutt, that cruising sailors should increase one size over the makers recommendation. So instead of a 33-pound Rocna for your Tartan 37, you buy a 44-pound Rocna-now with potentially three times the safety factor of an old school anchor. Apart from the added significant expense, this obsession with upsizing – more anchor, more chain, bigger windlass-can also add potentially unnecessary weight and concentrate it in the bow.

So what do we really get with that bigger anchor? There is an idea that if you double weight of an anchor you will double holding power. Except with extra-large commercial anchors and some specific tests, we’ve found no data to support this.

No independent test, as far as we know, has taken a series of different sized anchors of the same design and tested them in the same seabed for ultimate holding capacity. Tests have been conducted on commercial oil rig anchors like the Bruce, and the best scaling is about 90 percent-double weight and you increase hold by 1.8 times.

The only recreational anchor that we are aware of that has undergone some testing to determine the relationship between weight and holding is Fortress (in mud only, see Anchoring in Squishy Bottoms, PS February 2015 ). An analysis of all their tests on a complete range of their anchor sizes suggest that if you triple weight you increase hold by slightly more than two times, approximately an 80 percent efficiency as size is scaled up.

Ultimately, this means that when someone tells you they can calculate the increase in holding power as you move up in size, be careful not to read too much into this conclusion. For one, the ratio used deserves close scrutiny. Surely, the bigger anchor will provide better holding-but how much? This hard to quantify, even with computer modeling. And no matter how accurate your calculation-a ratio based on performance in one type of bottom might not apply in another.

One reason you can’t claim that doubling the weight doubles the holding is that as anchors increase in size, the stress on the construction increases. To compensate for the increase in stress, the steel thicknesses must be increased – and more steel weighs more. So in an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power.

And as we’ve shown in our past tests-anchor dimensions (especially the fluke area) and shape can play a significant role in performance. It might be possible to double weight and double the holding power without beefing up the steel, but the resulting anchor would be less strong relative to its designed holding power.

Weaker construction might not matter on an over-engineered anchor. However, we have seen how the use of inferior materials has resulted in anchors that bend more easily at designed loads (see Anchor Tests: Bending More Shanks, PS May 2013 ).

Anchor Angles

In past reports, we’ve discussed in detail how anchor design can impact holding, especially with the new generation anchors ( see An Inquiry into Anchor Angles, PS February 2017 ). As you consider which design best suits your needs, here are some things to consider.

Fluke/shank angle. The fluke/shank angle is the angle between fluke and shank. It is one of the determining factors in how quickly and deeply an anchor sets. For a simple design with flat plate fluke and a straight shank (like a Guardian) the angle is a line down the center of the shank to the hinge and then along the fluke. In shanks with curves or angles, the first line is usually drawn from the shackle pin to the point there the shank meets the fluke.

For three-dimensional flukes (as found in most new generation anchors), you have to estimate where the top of the fluke plate lies. The ballast chamber or shank support that might protrude from the sole, such as with Spade, or Vulcan anchor should not be used to determine shank/fluke angle.

It is the fluke top surface that is important. In previous tests we reported that in thin mud an anchor with a fluke angle of around 45 degrees will outperform an identical anchor with its fluke angle set at 30 degrees. But a firmer sand seabed is entirely different, and research demonstrates the ideal fluke angle for a typical sand bottom is around 30 degrees (see Small Anchor Reset Tests, PS February 2013 ).

Fluke-seabed angle. This is the angle of the fluke to the seabed during the phases of anchoring-most importantly, during the initial penetration into the bottom, and when the anchor is set.

Penetration angle. When an anchor is aligned ready to set, or engage with the seabed (it might need tension on the rode to achieve this) then the fluke will usually be at an angle of 60-70 degrees to the seabed. Commonly the anchor is on its side.

Setting angle. Once the anchor starts to penetrate it will self align and the fluke plate tend quickly toward its setting angle, usually of about 30 degrees. It is coincidence that the fluke/shank angle and setting angle are similar though most anchors tend to show the similarity of the two angles. Center of gravity can have a great effect on penetration angle. This is why many new generation anchors, like the Ultra, have weighted flukes. Having a 30-degree fluke/shank angle is irrelevant if the center of gravity is in the wrong place.

Shank length

If you imagine a Fortress with a shank/fluke angle of 30 degrees but a shank three times longer than its original design, then you can visualize how the anchor will probably simply slide along the seabed when tensioned. The throat opening will be too small. Similarly if you chop the shank in half, the toe of the anchor will simply scrape along the seabed. In both case the anchor will find difficulty in engaging because the penetration angle will be wrong.

Are the makers of new generation anchors over-stating the need for bigger anchors, thus requiring boat owners to pay much more than they might need in order to be secure at anchor? Possibly. Would going with a larger-than-required anchor actually hurt your anchors performance? Unlikely. As is often the case with our anchor reports, it is hard to come with some firm answers regarding both of these questions. Anchor studies are fraught with variables.

In our view, it is no crime to go up one size over the manufacturers recommended size, if your boat and crew can handle it. The anchor may require more reverse throttle to set, but ultimately, it should provide the holding you require. Likewise, it is reasonable to assume that the anchor makers guidance for sizing is reasonable. However, if an online advocate starts telling you that youll get x times more holding power by going up one size, ask him for the data.

Extra weight in an anchor is your insurance policy. Yes, you can almost always get more security with the heavier anchor, but whether or not you will every need that extra holding power is not conclusive. In our view, conservative sizing is added insurance-but until the data is in, we remain skeptical of any absolute claims that attempt to quantify the advantages of more weight when choosing an anchor.

Based on average recommendations from leading anchor makers, the weight savings of upgrading to a second generation anchor doesn’t really pay off until you get into the larger size vessels.

In an anchor whose holding power relies greatly on surface area and how it is distributed, adding more weight doesn’t necessarily result in a commensurate increase in surface area that provides holding power. To compensate for the higher loads, the steel must be thicker, resulting in different surface area/weight ratios.

• As fluke size increases, so do the loads. But if the construction isn’t beefed up to handle the loads, the result is failure. Flat plate steel in this Danforth fluke sheered.
• The shaft of an Excel anchor bent during veer testing.
• The flat flukes of the Bugel anchor makes it easy to calculate the shank-fluke angle.
• Here a Rocna anchor is in the initial setting angle, still capsized on one side, with not enough of its toe is dug into the soil to dig in. Bottom shape and center of gravity (some designs are weighted to control CG), helps to determine this angle.
• This Manson Ray anchor has rolled upright and assumed the angle of penetration that will help the anchor to bury into the bottom.

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Anchor Selection Guide: How to Choose the Best Boat Anchor Type

There are a number of boat anchors available, constructed of different materials, and often with confusing names. This article will discuss the most popular types of boat anchors,  how to choose the best anchor for your boat, the most common material types, and also give an overview of different naming conventions.

Quick Anchor Style Summary

Video: Choosing an Anchor Type

Our video below introduces many of the anchor types discussed here, although the article discusses a few more anchor types and provides some useful links.

Quick Summary Boat Anchor Recommendation

For most boaters , a Bruce or Delta is the best balance between price and performance. Both perform similarly and are similarly priced (Narrowly, the Bruce/Claw is our favorite of the three). If you've used a Danforth in the past , and you have had luck with it, choose a Danforth. If you've never used one before and if your setup allows it, choose a Bruce or Delta instead. If you're a blue-water cruiser , choose a CQR, or consider one of the new generation of anchors discussed below.

Boat Anchor Names: Trademarked Names and Generic Names

A special note is needed on the naming of anchors. Many anchors have a trademarked name, such as a   Bruce   or CQR, and a generic name like Claw or Plow. This is the same as how Xerox is a trademarked name for photocopier and how Aspirin is a trademarked name for pain killer. Trademarks effectively never expire whereas design patents expire after approximately 20-25 years. Therefore, manufacturers are free to clone an anchor design that has an expired patent but cannot use the trademarked name.

Bruce™ Claw Anchor

The   Bruce, or Claw, remains one of the most popular anchors among recreational boaters in North America. This is our anchor of choice as well.

The   Bruce   was developed in the 70s by the Bruce Anchor Group. Once their patent expired in the early 2000s, they stopped production of this anchor but many imitations have come along since.

The  Bruce  is an excellent all-purpose anchor as it performs well in most sea bottoms including mud, sand, rock, and coral. It has a harder time penetrating harder surfaces, such as clay, and bottoms with heavy grass. The three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. It also resets easily if it is ever broken loose. On the downside, the Bruce has a lower holding power per pound than other anchors, meaning you’ll usually need a larger anchor than say the  Delta/Wing .

Pros:  Performs well in most conditions. Sets easily. Cons:  Awkward one piece design. Lower holding power per pound. Bottoms: Performs well in most bottoms; Struggles in hard bottoms such as clay, or heavy grass.

CQR™/Plow   &   Delta™/Wing Anchor

Both the CQR/Plow and the Delta/Wing are a plow style anchor. The most significant difference between these anchors is the fact that the CQR has a hinged design whereas the Delta is a one piece design.

The   CQR   is one of the oldest styles, dating back to the 30s and to this day, it remains one of the most popular anchors among blue water cruisers. Despite this, it has relatively low holding power and it consistently struggles in independent tests. It’s also rare to find a CQR under 25 lbs lending itself to the saying “There’s no such thing as a small CQR”. Despite these shortcomings, the hinged design makes it more responsive to wind and tide changes as compared to other anchors.

The   Delta   is arguably the most popular anchor on boats today, and is the standard anchor of choice used by most boat manufacturers. It has a good holding power per pound (about 50% more than the Bruce).

Both the   Delta   and the   CQR   perform well in most bottoms, struggling the most in rock.

Pros:   Performs well in most conditions. Fits most bow rollers. Cons:   Hinged design can make stowage awkward. "No such thing as a small CQR/Plow anchor". Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; struggles in rock.

Danforth™/Fluke Anchor

The  Danforth , or Fluke anchor, remains a very popular anchor choice. The Fortress is also a popular Fluke style anchor, different from the  Danforth  in that it comes apart and it constructed of light-weight, high-strength, aluminum.

The Fluke performs well in mud and sand, potentially the best of any anchor style. The downside is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Therefore, it is a mud/sand only anchor, which fortunately is what most bottoms are comprised of.

Whether or not it is used as a primary anchor, a Fluke anchor makes an excellent choice as a secondary or stern anchor.

Pros:  Performs well in mud and sand. Stows easily on most bow rollers. Cons:   Does not perform well outside of mud/sand. Bottoms : Top performer in mud/sand. Performs poorly in other bottoms.

Spade Anchors

There are several anchors on the market today that feature a sharp fluke and a roll bar. These include the   Rocna and Manson Supreme.

Each of these anchors are essentially a variation on a plow style anchor. If you look at the plow portion of these anchors, you can see they are a lot sharper than traditional plows like the   Delta/Wing   and CQR. Analogous to a knife through butter, these anchors can penetrate the sea bottom a lot easier and deeper than the other anchor styles, hence the name for these anchors: "spade". The roll bar helps orient the anchor upright when setting.

These anchors have performed   extremely well in third party tests . The biggest downside to these anchors is that because they are still patented, they can be very expensive. The roll bar along with the elongated fluke can also make storing these anchors on bow rollers difficult.

Pros:   Very high holding power for many models. Cons:   Difficult to stow on a bow roller. Expense. Bottoms : Performs well in most bottoms; less effective in rock

Grapnel   and Other Small Craft Anchors

A  Grapnel anchor  is generally used for small boats such as Kayaks, Dinghies, Canoes, etc. It’s also popular with fishermen.They fold up very compactly and are easy to stow. A Grapnel’s holding power comes from hooking onto another object, such as a rock. When it does hook, it can create immense holding power, which can also make retrieving the anchor difficult.

Pros:  Great for use as a lunch hook. Folds to allow for compact storage. Cons:  Not appropriate for non-temporary anchorage. Bottoms: Rock or other situations when it can hook onto an object.

Mushroom Anchors

Large Mushroom anchors  are often used for permanent mooring buoys. As the silt from the sea-bottom builds up over these anchors, it can result in extreme holding power, up to 10 times the holding power of its actual weight. As a mooring buoy, the mushroom anchor is an excellent choice, however, it is not as useful in some temporary anchoring situations. An exception is that smaller versions of these anchors are good for use in small boats for anchoring while fishing or for a lunch stop over silty bottoms where the mushroom can penetrate.

Pros: If large, great for permanent mooring buoys. If small, good for use while fishing or for a lunch stop. Cons: If large, not appropriate for non-permanent moorings. If small, only good in soft bottoms. Bottoms: Silt, soft mud, unpacked sand.

Boat Anchor Material Types

Boat anchors come in a variety of types, the most popular being mild steel, high-tensile steel, stainless steel, and aluminum.

Most of the traditional steel anchors we are accustomed to seeing are likely either mild or high tensile steel. Mild steel and high-tensile steel are nearly indistinguishable from one another appearance wise. However, high tensile steel is 2-3 times stronger than mild steel. This isn't to say that a high-tensile steel boat anchor has 2-3 times the holding power of its mild steel counterpart, but it will nonetheless be stronger.

Both mild steel and high-tensile steel anchors are not corrosion resistant, and therefore need to be galvanized to prevent rust and other corrosion. All steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Galvanization has a tendency to wear down over time, but an anchor (as well as nearly any other steel product) can be re-galvanized.

Stainless steel is identical to galvanized steel in terms of holding power but differs significantly in appearance. The shiny gloss is essentially the only difference between stainless steel and galvanized steel. Stainless steel is also very corrosion resistant and will resist most rusting over time. You will often see manufacturers describing stainless steel as either 316 Stainless or 304 Stainless. 316 is a different chemical composition than 304 and is more corrosion resistant. It also more expensive.

There are some anchors constructed from high strength aluminum, such as the Fortress. These anchors are extremely lightweight while still offering high holding power. These anchors rely on bottom penetration for most of the holding power, and therefore, if they are not set, they provide little to no holding power.

Published May 08, 2018

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18 Most Popular Sailboat Anchor Types

Being able to anchor out after having arrived in a cozy and isolated bay to enjoy the rest of the day in complete contentedness or simply anchoring right outside a marina to save a bit of time and money is an amazing luxury to have.

To properly set a sailboat anchor, however, requires a good quality, dependable anchor , so knowing the different sailboat anchor types is a must.

Knowing which sailboat anchor type is best for you depends on which conditions you’ll mostly be using your anchor. If you’re like most people, you’ll only need to choose between a few sailboat anchor types, but it’s always good to know about all the options available to you.

That’s exactly why I put together a list of the most popular sailboat anchor types that you’ll want to consider adding to your sailboat the next time you’re out on the water setting anchor.

However, there has been a resurgence in terms of anchor design over the years, so I’ll be distinguishing between the classic and modern sailboat anchor types.

What Makes a Good Anchor

Before we dive into the many different sailboat anchor types, we should quickly cover what makes a good anchor .

Depending on the circumstances, you’ll want one anchor over another. However, there are certain qualities we want in almost all of our anchors before we set out on a sailing adventure.

• Fast Dig in Time: It’s important that any anchor you use has the ability to dig into the seabed as fast as possible. The sooner the anchor is attached to the seabed, the earlier your chain will lay out.
• Buries Deep into the Seabed: Ensuring your anchor can bury well into the seabed means it’ll be firmly attached to the Earth. The anchor chain does most of the work when keeping your sailboat from moving much, but the anchor’s position must be solid.
• Holds a High Load: There are a lot of different sailboats of different sizes. Making sure the anchor you have has a sufficient surface area, flukes, and holding power is of the utmost importance for ensuring a strong holding power.
• Maneuvers Well During Tide and Current Shifts: There will be times when the tide, currents, and wind move your sailboat around while anchored out. Being confident your anchor can effectively maneuver under these conditions while staying well enough in place is a very important quality.

Classic Sailboat Anchor Types

Let’s take a look at some of the classic types of anchors used in sailboats.

You’ll most definitely see these anchor types in sailboats all over the world, so it’s a good idea to get accustomed to them and understand their advantages and disadvantages.

Fisherman/Admiralty Anchor

Probably the most common image of a sailboat anchor that’s conjured up in our heads is the traditional Fisherman/Admiralty anchor.

This sailboat anchor type is what we see on many coats of arms or similar symbols and can still be found on sailboats all over the world.

• Can be stowed flat.
• Holding power in sand, mud, or other loose seabed is good.
• Less likely to break due to few moving parts.

Disadvantages

• Relatively heavier than other anchors causing difficulty to move them.
• Damage to the sailboat can be caused by the anchor’s flukes when being tossed around.
• Possibility of the anchor chain getting tied up in the vertical fluke.

CQR/Plough Anchor

The CQR or Plough anchor was developed in 1933 in the UK and has been a very popular sailboat anchor type ever since.

Named CQR because it sounds like the word “secure” when being pronounced, it’s a versatile type of anchor since it can secure a sailboat even when tides and currents change all of a sudden.

• Holds very well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
• Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power.
• Digs into the seabed well compared to other sailboat anchor types.
• Oddly shaped so stowing can be difficult.
• Moving parts can get damaged and can cause injuries to fingers.
• Sometimes requires a tripping line to remove from the seabed.
• Not ideal for seabed with kelp or hard sand.

Danforth Anchor

The Danforth anchor is a type of anchor for a sailboat that was developed back in the 1940s in the US and specifically designed for WW2 landing craft.

Since then they’ve been used in all kinds of sailboats and are a common sailboat anchor type for those anchoring often in loose seabeds, like sand or mud.

• Excellent hold when in the sand, mud, or other loose seabeds.
• Relatively light anchor that still provides a strong holding power (similar to the CQR anchor).
• Not ideal when anchoring in rocks.

Delta Anchor

Not unlike the design of a CQR/Plough anchor, a Delta anchor is a popular type of anchor for sailboats nowadays.

The main difference between a CQR anchor and a Delta anchor is that a Delta anchor has no moving parts and is thus fixed into one piece. This sailboat anchor’s been around since the 1980s and is a great alternative to a CQR anchor.

• No moving parts that pinch your fingers.

Bruce Anchor

Another popular anchor developed in the UK, the Bruce or Claw anchor was developed in the 1970s and has a reputation of being a good type of sailboat anchor in many settings.

This type of anchor doesn’t have any movable parts and has an effective way of realigning itself with changes in the wind and tide.

• Digs well into the seabed.
• Holds well in soft seabeds such as mud or sand.
• Easy to break out when pulling it in.
• Difficulty in penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Grapnel Anchor

A Grapnel anchor is well suited for those looking to anchor in more rocky and coral-filled areas where there’s little seabed around that’s soft.

The great part about having a Grapnel anchor is that it can easily catch quickly by using its hooks to grab on to surrounding objects.

• Holds well in hard seabed environments such as rock or coral.
• Not ideal for soft seabeds like sand or mud.

Modern Anchor Types

Now that we’ve reviewed the more classical anchor types, let’s dive into the newer generation of sailboat anchor types that you’ll run into more and more as the years progress.

It’s not unlikely that you’ll find one of these newer generation anchors on your sailboat, so let’s see what they’re all about.

Bugel or Wasi Anchor

The Bugel or Wasi anchor was designed in Germany by a man named Rolf Kaczirek and set the stage for a new approach to anchor design around the world.

This anchor has a roll bar attached to a single delta that’s flat and sharply pointed allowing it to penetrate most seabeds it encounters.

• Digs into a diverse set of seabeds.
• Has a relatively lightweight.
• No moving parts.
• Relatively inexpensive to purchase.
• Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potential less digging.
• Not ideal for very large sailboats.

Spade Anchor

The Spade anchor is an innovative sailboat anchor type that was designed in France in 1996. It’s an extremely light anchor that has an effective gripping power that’s quite similar to a Delta anchor but instead compacts the floor much better.

The holding power of a Spade anchor is known to be extremely powerful.

• Very lightweight.
• Digs into the seabed quite well.
• Can be disassembled for easy stowing.

Rocna Anchor

One of the most popular types of anchors for sailboats today, the Rocna anchor is a very good choice for an anchor. It was originally designed in New Zealand in 2004 and has since taken the anchor industry by storm.

By combining the best design feature from the Bugel and Spade anchors, it truly has set itself apart. It’s by far the most popular for cruising sailboat worldwide.

• Very strong holding power.
• Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed.
• Excellent surface area.
• Difficult to stow sometimes due to the row bar component.

Manson Supreme Anchor

The Manson Supreme anchor was designed in 2003 and has become a popular sailboat anchor in recent years due to it being able to have a very high holding weight and ability to settle fast.

Since it has a dual operation shank, it’s able to effectively dig into all seabed types with ease. It even has the rollbar design that the more modern anchors are known for.

• Has been known to be heavy.

Bulwagga Anchor

The Bulwagga anchor not only has a funny-sounding name, but it’s also one of the more uniquely designed anchors in the world. Instead of having the normal three flukes, it has a total of three.

Needless to say, this anchor has been well tested and proven to be a highly effective anchor in many situations.

• Has the ability to dig into almost any seabed, especially in weeds, coral, and rocks.
• Easy to retrieve back onto the ship.
• Difficult to stow sometimes due to having three flukes.

Knox Anchor

The Knox anchor was invented by John Knox in Scottland and has an exceptional holding power similar to the Rocna anchor.

As a matter of fact, this anchor is able to hold 40 times its anchor weight, which is a stunning feat.

• Digs well into many types of seabed.
• Sometimes difficult when penetrating seaweed or grass-like seabeds.

Ultra Anchor

Known as one of the most innovative Spade-designed anchors, the Ultra anchor is rapidly becoming one of the most popular anchor types and is often seen as a replacement for the Bruce anchor.

It’s a rather heavy anchor since it’s made out of stainless steel and has lead inside the tip of its fluke. While not cheap, the Ultra anchor is known to work virtually guaranteed.

• Arguably the strongest and most reliable holding power.
• Very heavy to carry and retrieve.
• Relatively expensive compared to other anchors.

Vulcan Anchor

Similar to the Rocna anchor, the Vulcan anchor is almost a carbon copy of the Rocna anchor minus the fact that it doesn’t have a roll-bar.

The main reason for the creation of the Vulcan anchor was to accommodate sailors who found it difficult to stow the Rocna anchor. This is a fantastic choice for any sailor.

• None that could be found.

Manork Anchor

One of the most recent sailboat anchor types designed over the years is the Manork anchors, which were designed in Slovenia by Marko Janjanin in 2017.

It has proven to be an extremely well-designed, well-functioning anchor that can accommodate sailors in many weather and seabed conditions. It’s been heavily tested in strong storms and loose seabeds only to pass with flying colors.

• Has a unique fluke design made for strong holding power.
• Roll bar moves weight away from the tip causing potentially less digging.

Other Anchor Types

More likely than not, you’ll want to opt for one of the more modern types of anchors for sailboats if you have the opportunity.

However, there are several other anchor types that are effective in different environments that may not be the most common, but are useful when needed.

Mushroom Anchor

The Mushroom anchor was invented by Robert Stevenson and is most commonly used in seabeds that are composed of silt or fine sand.

While it’s not likely that you’ll ever be in such an environment, a Mushroom anchor will ensure that you’re safe to anchor in case you ever are. Since it’s shaped like a mushroom and inverted, the head of the anchor effectively buries itself directly into the sand.

They rely heavily on a suction effect between the seabed and the anchor, therefore the seabed must be relatively fine.

Hydrobubble Anchor

Not unlike the CQR/Plough anchor, a Hydrobubble anchor has a similar design but with a slight twist. It has attached to it a buoyancy tank that allows the anchor to safely float down to the seabed without fluttering around and causing an issue when it lands.

This almost entirely ensures that the anchor is in a good position and securely attached to the seabed. All in all, it’s just like a CQR/Plouch anchor but just better at landing in a good position.

Sand Anchor

There aren’t many anchors out there like a proper Sand anchor, mainly since this type of anchor is attached directly to the shore of a beach.

These types of anchors are designed to give your sailboat a firm attachment to sand on land when necessary. Generally, a spike is either driven or screwed into sand for a temporary amount of time.

It’s important to note, however, that these types of anchors are strictly temporary and should be monitored constantly.

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Which Sailboat Anchor Is Right For Your Boat?

It's often said that your sailboat anchor is the best insurance you'll ever buy. And so it is - providing it's the right one!

The 'right one' meaning not just the right design for the type of seabed you're anchoring on, but the appropriate size for your sailboat - and of course, even the best of anchors will fail to please if it's on too short a scope or dumped on the seabed with a load of chain piled on top of it.

There's plenty of data around recommending the appropriate anchor size for a sailboat of a specific length, but before we get on to talking about the various anchor designs, we'll repeat it here...

Matching Sailboat Anchor Size to Boat Length

The following table sets out the minimum size of sailboat anchor for a vessel of a particular length. It is, at best, just a guide. If you regularly have to rely on your anchor in less than ideal conditions you'd be wise to choose one for the next boat size up.

And this presupposes that you've deployed sufficient scope of anchor rode, and your anchoring technique is up to scratch.

What Should You Expect From a Good Sailboat Anchor?

There's been something of a revolution in sailboat anchor technology in recent years. The old guard - CQR, Bruce, Danforth and Fisherman - have been challenged by a new generation of young upstarts, the main contenders being Spade, Rocna and Bugel (aka Wasi in the USA).

The essential attributes we demand from our anchor are:

• It must dig in fast every time - If it doesn't it will have a chance to collect weed before it starts to penetrate the seabed;
• It must bury deep - The deeper it buries, the greater the mass of seabed above and ahead of the anchor - the cone of resistance - and therefore the greater the holding power;
• It must provide high holding power - Holding power is achieved as a result of surface area, blade profile and the depth to which the anchor has buried. But given sufficient load, all anchors will eventually drag. Those anchors that remain buried while dragging, rather than capsizing and pulling out, are clearly to be preferred. The static holding power, that is the resistance provided before the anchor starts to drag in sand appears to be no more than 20 times the anchor weight, and sometimes as little as 10 times for a less efficient anchor. This varies with the nature of the seabed. So if you use a 15kg anchor, its static hold is unlikely to be greater than 300kgf. For a 10m yacht this is the force which likely to be experienced in a 40 knot wind, and for a 12m yacht in a 33 knot wind;
• It must hold in wind or current shifts - A real test of an anchor occurs when the wind shifts or the tide turns. In these conditions some types have a tendency to roll and pull out rather than drag around to face the new direction, and others that have failed to bury themselves completely and leave bits sticking above the seabed are likely to be tripped.

Sailboat Anchor Designs

Not all sailboat anchors are created equal - some are at their best in sand and mud, whilst others will drag in these seabeds but hold firm in kelp and rocks. Here're the most popular patterns, starting with those that have been around for a while:~

The Old Guard...

The fisherman anchor.

A good one to start with this, as it's been around since Admiral Nelson was in short trousers. Also known as the Admiralty Pattern Anchor and sometimes the Yachtsmans Anchor, it's probably the best of all for holding in rock or thick kelp.

Once set, the stock will be lying horizontally on the seabed, one fluke will have dug into it and the other will be sticking up above it, perfectly positioned to hook up with the chain when the tide turns.

The stock can be released so that it can lie alongside the shank, making it an easy anchor to disassemble and stow below. But once assembled it's anything but convenient - as you'll know if you've ever tried to get one out of the water and onto the foredeck.

Clearly this is never going to be a favourite bower anchor with cruising sailors.

The CQR Anchor

So named because it sounds like 'secure', the UK designed CQR (or Plough) Anchor has proved to be a popular bower anchor with cruising sailors since it first appeared in 1933.

Like the Bruce Anchor below, it stows well in the stemhead fitting, but is difficult to stow anywhere else - and they'll pinch your fingers if not handled with care.

The CQR can deal with changes in tide direction and currents through its patented swivel system, which allows it to accommodate wide swing angles before it has to reset itself.

The Danforth Anchor

Also known as a Fluke Anchor, the US designed  has been with us since the 1940's when it was developed for World War 2 landing craft.

When deploying this anchor it's essential that it has no way on when it hits the seabed, or it will skate merrily over it without penetrating at all.

Once properly set there's no sailboat anchor that holds better than a Danforth Type Anchor in sand and mud, but on most other types of seabed it doesn't perform well at all.

And when asked to realign itself when the wind or tide changes direction it's unlikely to do so, much preferring to twist over and break out.

Neither will it stow well in the stemhead fitting, but it does fold flat and stows well below decks or in an anchor locker. It also stows nicely on the pushpit, where it can be put into ready use as a kedge anchor.

The Fortress Anchor is one of several light-weight aluminium anchors similar in appearance to the Danforth, but with larger flukes. And in common with the CQR Anchor they will pinch your fingers at the slightest provocation.

The Bruce Anchor

Also known as Claw Anchors, these one-piece British designed anchors have been around since the 1970's, when huge versions of them they were developed for use in the developing North Sea Oil Industry.

Bruce Type Anchors have a reputation as a good all-round sailboat anchor, but they do have difficulty penetrating weed and grassy seabeds.

On the plus side, once properly set they will realign themselves with wind and tide changes, rather than rolling over and breaking out.

They're awkward to stow anywhere other than in the stemhead fitting.

The Delta Anchor

Another plough anchor like the CQR Anchor but without the finger-pinching tendencies of the pivoting arrangement, and of one-piece construction like the Bruce, the Delta Anchor is something of a hybrid.

It's been around since the 1980s, but more recently lightweight aluminium versions have appeared which mean that you can go up a size without having to cope with additional weight.

And the Best Sailboat Anchor Is...?

To a greater or lesser extent, all of these anchors meet the four principal performance criteria, but some perform better in certain types of seabed than others. For example, the Danforth is as good as any in sand, although there is a risk of it rolling and pulling out as the tide turns; and nothing beats a Fisherman in rock or kelp.

But there has been some advanced thinking in the design of the new generation anchors, as a result of which they all provide excellent holding power, and are generally more reliable in their deployment

• If they land upside down, they immediately turn right way up ready for immediate penetration as the load comes on the chain. The Spade Anchor achieves this through weight distribution and an angled ballast chamber and both the Rocna and the Bugel by a roll-bar;
• They dig in very quickly - the Spade Anchor in particular is said to do so within its own length;
• They completely bury themselves in most seabed conditions and re-align quickly with changes in wind and tide without pulling free;

For anyone contemplating the purchase of a new anchor, they should have a serious look at one of these new generation anchors.

And here they are:~

The New Breed of Anchors

The bugel anchor.

Known as the Wasi Anchor in the US, this German design from the early 1990s is the forerunner of the new breed of sailboat anchors, and the first to sport the rollover bar.

The Bugel anchor a simple design which keeps manufacturing costs down, but still provides excellent performance in most seabed conditions.

Like the following designs it will bury itself and turn to accommodate changes in tide and current without breaking out.

The Spade Anchor

A French design from 1996, the Spade Anchor was initially developed for punching through the seagrass often found in Mediterranean anchorages.

Its two-part design can be readily disassembled with a spanner (wrench) for convenient stowage in a locker, but it will stow neatly in the stemhead fully assembled and ready for deployment.

It's balanced such that it always arrives on the seabed point down, which enables it to set very quickly. The ultimate holding power of the Spade Anchor is renowned.

The Rocna Anchor

Have we left the best till last?

In my view yes; the Rocna Anchor is a winner and a 44lb version graces Alacazam's bow roller.

Designed in New Zealand, it's been around since 2004 and has become a favourite of cruising sailors worldwide.

It combines the basic design of the Bugel with the sophistication of the Spade Anchor and in all the sailboat anchor test reports I've read comes out on top.

Like the Bugel Anchor, it's designed to live in the bow roller; it's awkward to stow it anywhere else.

The Rocna Anchor is immensely strong, has superb holding power and is one of the very best sailboat anchors currently available. Here's just one example of why I believe this to be true...

The only issue with the Rocna is that it the rollover bar makes it difficult to stow in some bow fitting configurations. The new Rocna Vulcan is a spade anchor said to have similar holding power to the original Rocna whilst offering the greatest possible compatibility across a wider range of vessel bow configurations.

Artwork by Andrew Simpson

More about Anchors and Anchoring...

What anchor chain length is needed to keep your boat secure.

Too little anchor chain length and your boat is likely to go walkabout; too much and you're likely to swing into other boats. Here's how to get it right...

Methods of Joining Anchor Chain

Here’s how to go about joining anchor chain, either to another length of chain or by a rope/chain splice to a warp, and by a swivel connector to the anchor.

Is BBB Anchor Chain As Good As The Other Types Of Anchor Chain?

Proof Coil, High Test and BBB anchor chain all have their own attributes and shortcomings, so there's no one answer. But here's how to choose what's best for your boat...

Is an Anchor Snubber Line really Necessary?

If you have an all-chain rode then yes, you definitely need an anchor snubber line. But what's best, a single snubber line or a bridle? Well, it depends...

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How to Anchor a Boat: 7 Critical Steps (Lake, River, Sea)

If you want all the freedom your boat can give you, you need to learn to set the anchor. It's not as hard as you think, and with preparation and practice, you can stay where you want to, when you want to.

It's not just a keel and hull and a deck and sails. That's what a ship needs. But what a ship is... what the Black Pearl really is... is freedom. Captain Jack Sparrow

Point your boat at the horizon and you can go anywhere. Well, almost anywhere, so long as there are slips and moorings open when you get there. Or you have a reservation.

How to anchor a boat in 7 steps:

Get good ground tackle, pick a safe anchorage, prepare your crew, pick your spot to drop anchor, drop it and set it, set snubbers and secure, keep an anchor watch, any questions.

In this article, we'll give you the building blocks from the basic setup of your ground tackle, to picking a safe spot to anchor, and take you through the steps of getting a good anchor set. If you're looking to expand your horizons past the mooring field, read on!

• Make sure your ground tackle is solid.
• Pick a safe anchorage.
• Talk it through with your crew.
• Pick your spot to set the hook.
• Drop it, hook it, and set it.
• Set snubbers and other tools.
• Keep an anchor watch.

You need ground tackle - an anchor and a rode - which will hold your boat. Picking a style and size of anchor, choosing your type and length of rode, these are all crucial steps to safe anchoring. But unless you're buying a brand new boat, the odds are high you already have ground tackle of some type. The question is, is it good enough?

Good ground tackle meets the following basic criteria:

• The anchor must be big enough. It should meet the minimum size recommendation for your boat from the manufacturer, though one size up never hurt.
• Rope/chain rodes should have chain large enough to hold for the boat and anchor size, and at least one boat length long.
• There should be sufficient rode for at least seven times the total depth you plan to anchor in for chain, and ten times the depth for rope/chain. More won't hurt you.
• All connections and shackles should be seized (wrapped with wire to prevent unscrewing).

If you aren't familiar with your ground tackle, take it out. Measure the rode length, and make sure any ropes, chains, and anchors are sized for your boat. While you're there, think about marking your rode , then once you've measured it all make sure it meets manufacturer recommendations.

Since this is an entire topic on its own, I've written a detailed guide on ground tackle. It will help you to get a good sense of the different components, their function, and what to look for. You can learn everything about selecting ground tackle here .

While you can just drop your hook anywhere it can reach the bottom, you won't always be happy with the results. Anchoring in a exposed position may not end well, with the anchor maybe resetting or dragging in the middle of the night. There are a few things which make some places better than others for a desirable anchorage.

• Protection from wind, waves, and current in the conditions you expect to face.
• A bottom with good holding.
• Shallow enough to let out good anchor scope.
• Sufficient swing space for the scope you need.

So how can you, from the comfort of your nav station, decide what looks like a suitable spot to anchor? There are tools for this - with charts and cruising guides at the top of the list.

First, you check the charts looking for protected coves without too much water. Many charts even have helpful little anchors in common anchorages.

Second, check cruising guides, both books and online sources like ActiveCaptain or Waterway Guides.

Third, if you've never visited the location, look at a satellite photo from Google Maps. Moored boats and even mooring balls are often visible if you zoom in far enough. Look for mooring fields encroaching or over running marked anchorages, where you may not anchor like the charts suggest. For a good example of the possible disconnect between marked anchorages and reality, check out charts and satellite photos of Nantucket Harbor side by side.

Finally, when you are closer to leaving, check the weather.

For an exercise, look at this bit of chart of one my of favorite cruising destinations in New England, Cuttyhunk island.

You can see three spots I've labeled X, Y, and Z.

What you can't see on this chart is that the square in the pond's interior is covered with moorings, and there are several rows of moorings north of that sand spit with the runway on it. Also, there's five or six miles of open water to the north of the island before you reach the mainland. You also can't tell that the area labeled "Anchorage F" is open water on Vineyard Sound, and unsuitable for any small craft anchoring because it's usually wave and swell tossed. It's not bad for surfing, if you don't mind all the rocks, but it's an anchorage only for ships.

The first thing this tells me is that this anchorage should be fine in most conditions except in a northerly . I can tell you from first hand experience that if the wind clocks to the north and hoots up into the twenties in the middle of the night, you will be uncomfortable within a very short amount of time. That's plenty of open water fetch to build up wind-driven waves, where the same wind from the south won't do a thing.

X is just outside the row of moorings in about fifteen feet or water. As long as you don't mind wakes from sport fishers blasting out of the channel at dawn on the weekends, it’s great. But maybe right on X isn't so great because of the traffic.

Spot Y avoids the channel traffic, but you're close to half a mile off shore. That's OK, but it might get a little choppy. It's better to tuck in as close as you can, so you're looking for a spot east of X and Y, but not all the way out to Y. You could anchor closer to Nashawena Island if you wanted to, but once you get there, you may find it's not as appealing as it's a long way in to the dinghy dock in the pond.

If you check a cruising guide, you will see similar information about anchoring there - it's comfortable except in a northerly, though there's some sea grass in the sand to be careful of.

The takeaway? If it's not a strong northerly, this is a pretty pleasant spot to anchor if you don't want or can't get a mooring.

And if you're in a trimaran or shoal draft boat, you can sneak right into the inner harbor and drop in spot Z behind the mooring fields.

As you cruise farther and get more adventurous, you'll find places which have less information. But for coastal cruising in places like Europe and North America, most anchorages are well documented.

With more than one person on the boat, someone is going to be on the bow working the windlass or dropping the anchor and someone will be on the helm. It only takes two, so that's what we'll focus on.

There are several key bits of information to communicate from bow to stern and back, so before you start, you need to be clear about who is deciding and who is reacting. It often makes sense for the person on the bow to make the calls because they can see where they're dropping, but not every crew works this way. My wife prefers to be on the bow but have me make "the call" on where to drop the anchor from the helm.

The information everyone needs to know is:

• Roughly where you want to drop the anchor
• When the anchor should drop.
• How much scope to use, or how much water you're dropping in. The person on the bow can't see the instruments.
• What to do with the engine, such as go in neutral, back down, turn the bow, and so on.

Talk it through as you approach the anchorage. Whoever is heading to the bow should have a rough plan, like "we're going to drop the anchor on a line between the stern of the white and blue boat, in about twenty-five feet."

If you all start on the same page, your odds are much better of finishing together.

Radios are good basic communication

Some crews swear by radios, since communication is instantaneous and unambiguous, assuming they work and you can hear each other. A quality set of duplex headsets with windproof microphones can help some people as they're learning this new skill, and it keeps you from having to yell to be heard.

Use hand signals as a backup

If you forget to charge the radios, or one drops overboard, or it's too windy to hear, you will need a backup communication system. After hundreds of times anchoring together, my wife and I have our hand signals down pat.

• Thumbs Up - Engine in forward (idle), shake up and down for more throttle.
• Thumbs Down - Engine in reverse (idle), shake up and down for more throttle
• Pointing Port or Starboard - turn helm in that direction
• Fist - engine in neutral and/or stop turning.

As we approach the targeted drop area, she watches me at the helm. When I want her to drop, I check depth and slowly flash fingers to show the number. She confirms by repeating the depth signal back. I confirm with a thumbs up or re-flash the number if her confirmation doesn't match, then she drops the anchor.

We've also got a few signals for when we pull the anchor, like "off the bottom" (hand pointing down and arm in a stirring motion) and "anchor up" (arm raised and hand waving in a circle).

Of course, with a well developed and practiced "back up" set of hand signals, we don't need radios and don't have them. If we anchor at night, we use lights to show on our hands for the signals.

A note on YELLING. Yelling is a common experience for inexperienced teams working an anchor, especially couples. It's best to avoid it. But sometimes you have to raise your voice to be heard over wind and distance when someone is forty feet away from you and upwind. If you have to raise your voice to be heard...watch your choice of words and your tone.

Deciding on an anchorage is a strategic decision, but deciding where to drop in the anchorage is a tactical choice and you can’t make it before you arrive. Charts and cruising guides will help you plan, but you won't know how crowded the anchorage is or the day’s wind and weather until you show up.

You're looking for a spot which meets the criteria from above for an anchorage, but now you have to negotiate anchored boats, moorings that weren't on the charts, and other hazards.

The most important thing to remember when you pick a spot to drop anchor is that your boat will not end up where you drop the anchor . You will end up some distance downwind or down current of your anchor, and you will swing around the anchor as the wind and current change. The trick is getting good at estimating where you will end up.

With sufficient scope, your anchor rode will not point straight down, but will lie mostly on the bottom with only the catenary hanging off the bottom. Depending on your rode style, in normal conditions, the bow will end up some 60-80% of the amount of rode you have out from the anchor. The amount of rode you released plus the length of your boat is the most swing room you need for safety, but for politeness and comfort you will want to be at least a couple of more boat lengths from the next boat.

We've found that if we pick a spot in the middle of a line between the sterns of two well spaced boats and drop there, we settle out with good spacing. Remember, unless the wind drops to zero, boats with similar scope will swing the same way. If you're five boat lengths behind someone in a northerly, if the wind swings to the south, they will be about five boat lengths off your stern.

So don't be shy about asking how much scope your new neighbors have out and match them if you're comfortable.

There are multiple ways and schools of thought on how to drop your anchor, from those who free-fall it when still to those who drop while moving backwards. The end target should be the same: do not allow the chain to pile up on the bottom or on the anchor .

If you do that, you may have a hard time setting.

This procedure is how we do routine set - an easy to catch bottom in moderate winds and current in daylight. We'll get into some more advanced anchoring techniques for tricky bottoms and bad weather [in another article](). Feel free to adapt this to what works best for you and your crew, it’s only a starting place.

Using proper anchor scope

The key to a good anchor set is letting out the right amount of rode. You can't really have too much out, unless it's crowded and the extra might swing you into other boats or shallow water. But it's easy to not let out enough.

Anchoring depth

Your anchoring depth is not the reading on the depth sounder when you drop the hook. Your anchoring depth is the depth of the water at the highest tide where you anchor while you are there. In areas with tiny tides this makes little difference, but if you're dropping in eight feet of water at low tide in an area with a five foot swing, it will make an enormous difference in your scope calculations and you won’t have enough out at high tide.

Check a tide chart if it isn't high tide when you drop. You may need to estimate the tide from the time, or by looking at the shoreline for exposed rocks.

Most of the world has a twice daily tide cycle, with each tide running a little more than six hours from low to high, then six from high back to low. To estimate the high tide depth, take height of the nearest high tide and subtract the nearest low tide height. This is the "swing" of the tide.

Next, figure out how many hours you are from that high tide, then divide that by six. Multiply this number by the "swing" height and this is about how many feet your boat will rise from where you are now while you are dropping.

EXAMPLE: Depth Sounder Reads: 18 feet Next High Tide: +5.3 feet in 2 1/2 hours. Last Low Tide: +.5 feet (tide measurements are given in change from Mean Lower Low Water) Time to tide ÷ 6 = 2.5/6 = .417 Tide Swing = +5.3 - +.5 = 4.8 .417 x 4.8 = 2.0 ft.

So you can expect the depth to read about 20 feet at high tide, and this is the number used to calculate scope. While this is only an estimate, it's close enough to work with. But it won't hurt to always round the maximum depth up for safety.

The scope calculation

There's one other number we need to discuss in calculation - the bow height above the water. Depth for scope doesn't calculate from the surface of the water, we're concerned about the entire amount of mechanical advantage and leverage involved in pulling on the anchor, so we need to know where the anchor rode applies it load to the boat. That is at the bow, on the anchor roller, which is always a few feet above the water.

So the total depth you need to calculate scope is: Depth at High Tide + Bow Height from Water

The Bow Height is a one time measurement, which you should know for your boat. It's usually 4-6 feet, depending on the size of your boat. But ignoring it means if your scope is 7:1, you're letting out up to 42 feet less rode than you need for good holding.

Scope is the ratio of rode led out to the total depth (high tide + bow height) you're anchoring. 7:1 scope is seven times the depth, 5:1 scope is five times the depth, and so on.

All chain rodes can use less scope than rope/chain combinations, but it never hurts to use extra. We use 5:1 with our all chain rode for most normal, non-storm conditions for overnight anchoring. For rope/chain rodes, the recommendation is 7:1 .

EXAMPLE: Expected depth at high tide: 20 feet Bow Roller Height: 4 feet Total depth for scope calculation: 24 feet

So setting your scope at 7:1, you will need to let out 154 feet (24 x 7). For all chain, you can use 5:1 which is 120 feet (24 x 5).

Anchoring in Lakes and Rivers: if you are anchoring some place without tides, you can skip the tide swing estimation. Unless you're on a man-made lake with a dam, where they may raise and lower the water level! Check the dam management site for notes on any planned water height changes before you anchor. For non-tidal rivers, you rarely get depth changes. And the current will keep your bow pointing upriver, so motor up river to your drop spot and drift back to set. Tidal rivers may require two anchors, something a little too complex for this introductory article.

If you want to learn more advanced anchoring techniques, you can check our article on advanced anchoring techniques . There, I'll go over all kinds of different situations.

Try for a controlled drop

We prefer to pull our boat to a stop to where we want to drop, then lower the anchor as quickly as our windlass will allow. But we have an electric windlass, and if you're lowering by hand, you may not have so much control. So a few quick tips can help.

• Always try for a controlled drop. Don't just toss the anchor overboard and let the rope fly out, you'll have no way to deal with it if the rode bunches or tangles and goes overboard.
• If you have a rope rode, before you drop, pull it out and fake it out on the deck - lay it out on the deck so it's free of snarls and tangles and will flow freely. Tie the end to something sturdy.
• Dropping a rope rode by hand, wear gloves if you can so you can ease the drop and control it without rope burns.
• You can free fall an anchor by disengaging your windlass, but be ready to brake it if there is a problem.

To drop, we take the following steps. We approach our drop spot from downwind since the wind will slow us down and blow us back when we’re dropping.

• Idle upwind close to the point we want to drop, then drift to it in neutral.
• Signal the drop.
• Allow the boat to drift back as the anchor drops.
• Pay out limited rode until you reach 3:1 scope, then stop and allow the anchor to catch the bottom. If done right, this should make sure no chain piles up on the bottom.

The set is successful after a solid tug

Once you've reached step four, you're ready to finish the job. The person lowering the anchor should keep a hand or foot on the rode once you've hit step four, this with let them feel the anchor on the bottom. Any bumps as it drags without setting will come right through the rode, and they'll feel a solid tug when the anchor catches.

When we feel it a catch, we engage reverse in idle to tug on the anchor, just to make sure it's caught. Keep that foot on the rode and feel what's happening.

When it's caught well, put the engine in neutral and drift back to pay out the rest of the scope you need for the depth of water. When this is done, tie off the rode to a cleat or secure it, after which the helm should go into a hard reverse for ten or fifteen seconds to dig the anchor in tight.

Keep that foot on the rode to feel if the anchor drags or breaks out. Once you've backed down on the anchor for a good 10-30 seconds without popping it loose, you are set. Put the boat in neutral and tidy things up.

If you have an all chain rode, now is the time to attach your snubber(s) and ease out a little more chain to put the load on the snubber. You want the weight of the boat sitting on a cleat, not on your windlass. Your snubber should reach down almost to or even into the water, and shouldn't rub up against any chafe points.

For a rope/chain anchor, it's time to clean up the unused rode and make sure the bitter end is secure. When we used rope rodes, we did not leave them attached to the boat with the rode was in the locker, but you can do that if you have a spot. Otherwise, tie that bitter around something sturdy, just in case there's a problem. If you have to adjust the rode during the night, you don't want to lose if overboard if you drop it.

Tie it to a winch, or another cleat, or around the mast. Just make sure they it's not wrapped around anything you can damage if it pulls taught.

There are two kinds of anchor watch we always keep on board. The first is the "first hour" watch. Our rule is we wait at least an hour after anchoring before leaving the boat. This gives you time to make sure your set is solid while you tidy things up on board. More than once we've seen excited boaters come in, drop the hook, then lower the dinghy and be off to play within minutes. And more than once, we've had to deal with boats near us dragging right after they've been left.

Manual Watch

Get a hand bearing compass and a pad and pen, we're going this the old fashioned way first. Look on shore for some noticeable landmarks - extra tall trees, flag poles, impressive monuments and statuary, colored roofs - anything which is easy to spot and distinct. Bonus points if it has lights on it.

Next, pick three marks if you can, and take compass sightings on them. It's best if you sit in one spot to take the marks rather than move around the boat. Make note of the bearings.

As long as those bearings change little, you haven't moved. So during the first hour after you anchor, re-check those bearings several times.

You will get some small amount of change, especially in closer objects, but it shouldn’t be more than a degree or two. Your boat swings at anchor, of course. That's one reason you need a few marks.

If you find marks with distinctive lights on them, then you can repeat this check any time of day or night if you think you might be dragging.

Electronic Anchor Watches

The manual method of drag detection works, but has drawbacks. You must be awake to do it, and it requires an active action on your part. So it's less helpful if you want to get a good night’s sleep.

Most marine GPS units, chart plotters and many AIS units have a drag alarm function. There are several apps for phones and tablets on all platforms. Get one, and learn to use it.

The thing to remember about ANY electronic anchor alarm is most of them don't know where your anchor is, they only have GPS location, which is not over thhe anchor. A GPS in the stern of a big boat with 200' of scope out can swing through circle almost 500’ in diameter, and that will look like a dragging anchor to most drag alarms.

What you care about is if the anchor moves, not if the boat moves, because a boat at anchor is always moving. A better drag system allows you to estimate the anchor position. You can also set a watch on a handheld or your phone from the bow when you drop, and that will give you a good approximation of the anchor.

Most alarms work on a "drag radius" - if your boat moves out of that circle, it goes off. Learn to adjust this for your boat and your expected scope, and can spend a quiet night sleeping while your electronics stand by to wake you up before things get exciting.

If you're nervous about leaving your boat, install a drag app for a phone that will send a text alert or make a phone call if it detects dragging. Set that app to call another phone in your crew. Then leave the drag alarm phone on the boat, plugged into a charger, with the drag software running. You can enjoy dinner on land with less worry - your boat will call you if you may be having a problem!

Anchoring is a complex topic, with a lot of variables which go into getting your boat secure for the night. Questions are natural, and we've tried to anticipate a few for you.

What if I can't let out enough scope?

A 7:1 scope is a lot in a crowded anchorage. You may find when you show up on a summer holiday weekend that boats are packed in and lucky to get 5:1 out. If you come in and let out more, you will bump into boats. It is important to keep your anchor scope consistent with the surrounding boats, or you will have problems. However, if you can't let out enough scope to make yourself comfortable, you don't have a lot of options.

You can move to a different anchorage, or anchor on the outside of the anchorage where you can use more scope, though the water will be deeper. Or you can deal with the short scope for the stay and set your drag alarm on a smaller radius and keep a few fenders on deck for quick access if things get close.

How do I to tie the anchor to the boat?

Tie rope/chain anchors to a sturdy bow cleat with a cleat hitch, and secure the bitter end to something stout enough to hold the boat as a backup. I liked to tie a big bowline around the base of the mast, but a winch will work, too.

Chain rode should be snubbed, and the snubber tied to a cleat, but attach the bitter end to the boat. Most anchor lockers have a ring installed to attach the rode. We prefer a length of high modulus line like Vectran or Spectra to tie the last link to this ring, rather than hooking it with a metal shackle. You can use a shackle, but if you have to cut the rode in an emergency and it’s under load, you will need a metal cutting tool to get it off. The super strong Spectra line will cut with a knife.

Can I anchor a boat by myself?

Yes, you can, though you need to be quick on your feet unless you have windlass controls and a chain counter at the helm. The seven basic steps are the same, but you will have to approach your drop spot slowly and come to a near stop with the boat in neutral before you run up and drop the anchor.

You won't be able to feel the rode with your foot when you back down, so take it slow and let everything settle, and keep on eye on the GPS when you back down to see if you're moving once the rode is stretched.

Can I sail off my anchor?

Yes, you can. It's an advanced skill which is beyond this article to address, but it's a handy skill to have in case you ever have engine troubles. You need to get the boat moving up to the anchor to take the weight of the boat off your windlass, so use your main sail.

Can I anchor a boat with two anchors?

You don’t need two anchors often, and you shouldn't have two anchors out when boats around you do not, since they will not swing like you. Two anchors are a specialty application, such as anchoring in a tidal river, or in a strong, steady current, or with a stern anchor to keep the bow pointed in a set direction.

Should you drop anchor in a storm?

That depends where you are. If you are in the open ocean, you usually can't because it's too deep. If it's shallow enough to anchor, head for deeper water and away from land if you can't get to a safe harbor.

Find a protected anchorage and can get to it if you can, then dropping an anchor in sheltered waters is a good way to ride out a storm.

How do I anchor a boat in deep water/the ocean?

You can't anchor a boat at all in water deeper than your anchor rode; the anchor needs to touch the bottom! Since you need at least 3:1 scope for a temporary "lunch hook" set and more for an overnight, it's very hard to anchor in water deeper than about 1/4 the length or your rode. In an emergency, you can anchor with whatever scope slows you down, but anything less than 3:1 isn't restful and less than 4:1 you should not leave the boat unattended.

A "sea anchor" is not an anchor at all, it's a device like a parachute or scoop to slow your boat and keep it control in storm conditions. It does not stop the boat or secure it.

For more information, check out this article for more detail about anchoring in the ocean.

How big of an anchor do you need?

Anchor manufacturers publish tables of size and weight recommendations for different boat dimensions. The best recommendations have guides by boat weight and by length. Check both tables and choose the largest one which comes up. It's better to be a little too big unless you are hauling the anchor by hand.

Check our full guide to anchors and ground tackle and selecting an anchor for more details on sizing anchors.

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Better Sailing

Best Types of Sailboat Anchors

When buying a sailboat anchor, you want to ensure the safety of your sailboat, when mooring or setting anchor at the middle of a bay. There are many types of sailboat anchors available in the market and not all of them are constructed of same materials. This article will analyze different types of boat anchors, how to choose the best anchor for your boat, as well as the different types of their construction materials. The right anchor means not just the right design for the type of seabed you’re anchoring on, but also the appropriate size for your sailboat.

Here Are The Most Common Types of Sailboat Anchors

The spade anchor – best sailboat anchor overall.

A new generation anchor, it comes in a welded one-part or two-part design that can be easily disassembled with a spanner. Also, this sailboat anchor has excellent holding power. It provides balance and always arrives on the seabed point down, something that enables it to set very quickly. This Rocna Vulcan Galvanized Anchor has amazing holding power and, talking from experience, will never disappoint at any seabed or weather condition. It is also becoming a favorite for people who liveaboard and are looking for strong dependable anchors to have on their sailboat. I couldn’t recommend this anchor more.

Danforth or Fluke

The Danforth, or Fluke anchor, is a very popular anchor. It performs well in sand and mud, possibly the best among many anchors styles. The disadvantage is that outside of these bottoms, it is not a good performer. Thus, it is a sand anchor, which is what most bottoms are comprised of. However, it is the best anchor style in terms of weight to strength or anchoring ratio. Furthermore, it’s easy to store because it lies flat. The angle of the flukes is standard for 32 degrees or up to 45 degrees for soft mud. All these are Danforth boat anchors . You just need to find the right size for your boat.

Delta & Plow, Wing, or CQR

This type of anchors is bulkier than Danforth anchors. Both Delta and CQR are a plow style anchor. The difference between these anchors is that the Delta is a one-piece design, while CQR is a hinged design. Moreover, the delta and plow anchors are easy to store at the bow of your sailboat rather than in a locker. Delta and CQR demonstrate good performance in most bottoms, but they struggle in rock. This Lewmar Delta is a great sailing anchor that you can pick up from Amazon at a great price.

Bruce or Claw

The Bruce or Claw anchor rights itself and plows into the bottom, primarily because of its design. The Bruce is an all-purpose anchor because it performs well in most sea bottoms. These could be sand, mud, and rock. Its three-claw design sets more easily than other anchors. However, the Bruce anchor has an average holding power, which means that you might need a larger anchor, i.e. the Delta or Wing. Take a look at all these Bruce anchors available online and pick one that is the right size for your boat.

Fisherman, Kedge, or Herreshoff

It’s probably the best of all, in terms of holding in thick kelp or rock, but also more specialized. They are the traditional anchor shape that we all know. Modern kedge-style anchors are lighter and can adapt to specialized use. Furthermore, their sharp bills and small flukes hold better in hard sand. Kedge anchors are often used in heavy vegetation seabeds . However, I wouldn’t recommend this type of anchor to have on your sailboat since there are better and more versatile ones out there.

This type of anchor is similar to other plow anchor styles. The difference is that it has an adjustable fluke angle. Adjustable angles mean that they can be adjusted for different bottom conditions, unlike the Plow and Delta anchors. Although Super Max is a bulky anchor, it’s really effective.

Mushroom and River Anchor

These anchors are suitable for permanent mooring buoys. This style is designed to gradually dig itself deeper and once inserted, it has great holding ability. On the downside, this anchor does not work well in weedy or rocky bottoms. It is mostly useful in temporary anchoring situations. Although this type of anchor can be handy on your boat or sailboat it shouldn’t be the only one or even the second anchor aboard.

The Bugel Anchor

Another new generation of sailboat anchors, and also the first to sport the rollover bar. Furthermore, it has a simple design that makes it affordable. The Bugel Anchor provides excellent performance in most seabed conditions. However, they were widely replaced by spade anchors and you can’t really find them in most marine stores or online.

Best Material Types For Sailboat Anchors

There is a wide variety of anchors constructing materials. The most common are mild steel, stainless steel, high-tensile steel, and aluminum. Most of the traditional anchors we know are either made of mild or high-tensile steel. The difference between them is that high-tensile steel is 2 or 3 times stronger than mild steel. Keep in mind that these anchors are not corrosion-resistant, thus they have to be galvanized in order to prevent rust. In general, steel anchors (except stainless) should be galvanized. Most sailors choose a galvanized anchor because they are affordable, but also because they have the highest tensile strength. Nowadays, some anchors are made of aluminum and rely on their shape for their function.

Related Content: Stainless vs Galvanized Anchor

Connection Between Sailboats and Anchor Size

So, what’s the minimum size of sailboat anchor for a vessel of a particular length? For example, a 20ft sailboat will need an anchor of 15lb. Then, a 30ft sailboat will need an anchor of 25lb. Finally, a 36ft sailboat will need an anchor that weighs 35lb. Generally, anchors work in two ways. They can be massive and use their weight to keep the boat from drifting, or lightweight and bury themselves in the bottom, in order to stop the boat from moving. Of course, a combination of both is optimal and as a general rule, you want a bigger anchor that you think you need. That way, even if you find yourself in heavier weather than expected, you want one less thing to worry about.

What Characteristics Make a Good Anchor?

Firstly, it must dig in fast every time. Secondly, it has to bury deep, because of the greater the mass of seabed above and ahead of the anchor, the better the holding power. Thirdly, it must have excellent holding power. Finally, it must hold in the different wind conditions. For instance, when the wind shifts, the anchors have to drag around in order to face the new direction. Prefer the anchors that remain buried while dragging, rather than capsizing and pulling out. Moreover, the static holding power can’t be more than 20 times the anchor’s weight. For example, if you use a 15kg anchor, its static hold will be approximately 300kgf. In a 40 knot wind and for a 33ft yacht, this is probably the force that the anchor will receive.

Summary – What is the Best Sailboat Anchor?

In general, all of the above-mentioned anchors meet the four basic performance criteria. However, some of them demonstrate better performance in terms of holding power in certain types of seabed. For example, the Danforth is quite good in any sand, but there’s still a risk of it rolling and pulling out as the currents turn. On the other hand, Fisherman performs excellently in rock or kelp. However, nowadays the design of the new generation anchors provides much better-holding power and are generally more reliable in their movement.

Peter is the editor of Better Sailing. He has sailed for countless hours and has maintained his own boats and sailboats for years. After years of trial and error, he decided to start this website to share the knowledge.

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How to Pick a Boat Anchor: The Guide to Types, Sizes & Weights

October 20, 2023

Lakes can get choppy, and river currents can drag you along when you'd rather stay put. Having the right anchor on your boat is crucial, especially if you're busy staging for a wakeboard or ski ride .

But what type and size of anchor is best for your setup?

Types of Boat Anchors

Let's look at the most popular types of boat anchors, and look at some charts to figure out what size and weight anchor is right for you.

Fluke Anchors

Also known as a Danforth anchor, the fluke anchor is favored by lake and river boat owners for its lightweight design and excellent holding power in soft bottoms.

Fluke anchors have a rotating bar that connects the anchor to the line. Their forward-heavy profile allows the flukes to drive straight down into sand or mud. As line is laid out, the bar swivels into a horizontal position, providing good scope.

• Boat Size: 30 feet or less
• Best For: Lakes, rivers, mud and sand
• Bad For: Rocks, debris, coral, strong currents

Plow Anchors

Also called a delta anchor, the plow anchor is one of the most popular anchors on the boat market. It's simple and effective, capable of providing reliable mooring in all water conditions and most beds.

Plow anchors dig into the surface below and they provide high holding power. They set quickly, which makes them an excellent choice when strong currents and winds could otherwise quickly move your boat.

But plow anchors' large, flat fins can get stuck in debris and large rocks, so it's best to stick to softer bottoms.

• Boat Size: 70 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass bottoms, strong winds
• Bad For: Rocky bottoms

Claw Anchors

Also known as a Bruce anchor, the claw anchor is similar to a plow anchor: It sets quickly and digs into soft bottoms, providing good holding power against currents and wind -- though not as well as a plow.

Because claw anchors use smaller pins, they're better suited in gravel and rock, affording a lower risk of catching and getting stuck where a plow anchor might get hung up.

Digger Anchors

The digger anchor excels at providing high holding power in gravel and rocky bottoms, even with strong currents and high wind. It uses a rod that partially rotates, while limiting the angle of the anchor line's scope.

As current and wind pull on the boat, the rod's limited angle pulls on the anchor's claws, pushing them further into the bottom. The digger's thin, long claws work great in virtually all bottom, including gravel and small rocks -- just avoid large debris, as the limited angle of the anchor rod prevents it from being pulled back out of a snag effectively.

• Boat Size: 40 feet or less
• Best For: Sand, mud, grass, gravel, strong winds
• Bad For: Bottoms with large debris

Navy Anchors

The classic, heavy, big navy anchor excels at providing high holding power in all waters and conditions. Its size and shape make it suitable for rocky bottoms and debris fields, as it has little risk of getting snagged.

The only problem with a navy anchor is that its benefits can become problematic for smaller vessels: Because navy anchors are large and heavy, they can be difficult to stow, and they add plenty of weight to the hull.

• Boat Size: 20+ feet
• Best For: All bottoms, currents, and weather
• Bad For: Small, light boats

Mushroom Anchors

The mushroom anchor is made for small vessels in relatively calm waters with soft bottoms. It relies on suction and sinking into sand, dirt, and mud to provide holding power. These anchors are typically found on light, electric motor-powered boats, kayaks, and dingy boats.

• Boat Size: 12 feet or less
• Best For: Soft bottoms free of rock
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents, rocky bottoms

River Anchors

Like the mushroom anchor, the river anchor is also intended for small vessels in lakes and rivers -- but with one exception: The river anchor works well in rocky bottoms and beds filled with debris. The wide, flat flukes work best when they can grab hold of objects on the floor. River anchors work well enough in soft bottoms, albeit with less holding power than a mushroom.

• Best For: rocky bottoms and debris fields
• Bad For: Large boats, heavy currents

Choosing The right Size Anchor

When selecting a boat anchor, it's important to consider the following factors:

The size and weight of your boat will determine the size and weight of the anchor you need. As a general rule, the heavier the boat, the larger and heavier the anchor should be.

Water and Weather

The type of weather and currents you encounter will influence your anchor choice. Different anchors perform better in different conditions, so it's important to choose one that suits your boating environment.

Conditions of Water Bed

The floor your anchor rests upon can vary wildly. Some lakes and rivers have rocky bottoms filled with debris, while others have soft silt or sand. Picking the wrong setup could mean you wind up drifting, or worse, cutting line because your anchor got stuck at the bottom.

Anchor Weight vs. Boat Size Chart

The chart above is a general guideline for selecting the appropriate anchor weight for your boat. Conditions on the water, and the weight of your boat -- regardless of its size -- could mean you need a heavier anchor.

Anchor Chain vs. Rope

When it comes to anchoring, you'd think chain is far superior to rope. But chain really only provides two advantages: It adds holding power, helping to keep your boat moored in one spot in rough water and strong currents, and it resists chafing -- it won't suffer damage from being dragged along debris and rocks.

Chain is heavy, though, so it adds weight to your craft when not being used. This isn't a concern on large, sea-going vessels. But you probably don't want that added weight when you're cruising around on the river or lake, especially when towing a wakeboard, tube, or skis.

Chain also rusts, even with regular maintenance, and it's expensive. Nowadays, synthetic anchor rope is tough and abrasion-resistant, and it withstands water and sunlight incredibly well. It's also lightweight relative to its strength, and it takes up much less space than chain.

The most effective setup combines a bit of chain near the anchor, with rope making up the rest of the line. Just a few feet of chain is needed to ensure your anchor is properly seated. This bit of chain also improves the scope of your line. "Scope?" You, say? Read on.

It's All About Scope

Rope alone will provide as much holding power as chain, so long as your scope is correct. Scope measures the ratio of the length of deployed rope (or chain) to the height from the ocean, lake, or riverbed to the anchor point on the boat.

The minimum effective scope you need to properly moor your vessel with any anchor and line is 5:1. That means if the depth from your boat's topside to the underwater floor is 5 feet, you need 25 feet of rope laid out below. This affords about 75% of the maximum holding power of your anchor and line.

A scope of 10:1, laid perfectly flat on the bed below, provides 100% holding power. Using the same 5 foot depth, you'd need 50 feet of anchor rope or chain laid out for max holding power.

Need a new anchor setup? Check out our boat anchors and anchor lines !

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Rocna Anchors Sizing Guide

There’s a rocna original, rocna mk ii, or vulcan anchor to suit just about any vessel – including larger sizes not featured here. to choose the correctly sized rocna or vulcan anchor for your boat, follow the chart and instructions., anchor sizing guide.

For Multihulls: use the chart as instructed, then select the model one size larger.

Use the tabs to navigate between Metric Tonnes (t), Short Tons (T), and Pounds (lb).

Rocna Original & Vulcan

• Metric Tonnes

Rocna MK II

Larger rocna anchors.

Our charts do not accommodate vessels requiring anchors larger than the Rocna Original 110 (243 lb) or Rocna Mk II 100 (220 lb). This is because of increasing complexities of the factors involved. Please enquire about larger Rocna anchor sizes.

Classification society rules and/or legal requirements may mandate anchor sizes for these vessels.

CLASSIFICATION RULES SIZING FOR LARGER ANCHORS

Rocna anchors may be sized by classification society rules for SHHP anchors. An SHHP type is usually permitted a mass 33% lighter than HHP types, or 50% lighter than “standard stockless” types. Classified sizing is based on a vessel’s type, purpose, and calculated Equipment Number (E.N.).

For more information, please consult the Rocna Knowledge Base articles on our sizing recommendations and classification and certification .

Our Anchor Sizing is Conservative

Unlike other manufacturers, our anchor sizing recommendations are intended to provide an anchor adequate for use in most all conditions. We base our calculations on 50 knots of wind, associated surge, and poor holding bottoms. For more on our philosophy and rationale, please consult our Knowledge Base article on our sizing recommendations.

This chart is a guideline only, so if you’d like further information please enquire with us for further advice.

The Rocna 150 (331 lb) and Larger

We do not provide standard recommendations for boats larger than those for which the Rocna 110 (243 lb) would be the recommended size. This is because of increasing complexities of the factors involved.

Furthermore, classification society rules and/or legal requirements are likely to dictate the anchor sizes mandated for these vessels.

Rocna and Vulcan Anchor Bow Compatibility

To confirm that which Rocna or Vulcan anchor will fit your vessel, there are a number of resources below to assist you.

Rocna Anchors Dimensions

Measurements important to the fitting of the anchor on a bow roller are reproduced on this sheet. Using these drawings and a tape measure, many boaters can easily determine that a Rocna or Vulcan will fit their boat.

Visit our Rocna Anchors Dimensions Page or Download as PDF here:

2023 Rocna Anchors Sizing

Rocna knowledge base.

The Rocna Knowledge Base features a large and ever-growing collection of “boat fit cases”, with photos and other information, under Rocna bow compatibility . Popular production boats are covered, and examples of other owners of your boat type successfully fitting a Rocna or Vulcan will allow you to invest with confidence.

Also included are articles and recommendations on the topic of custom bow roller assembly design .

Which Will Fit Best, Rocna or Vulcan?

Rocna anchors are intended to fit well on most vessels. The Rocna Mk II offers improved clearance vs the Rocna Original at the shank-end and the roll-bar. The Vulcan is specifically designed to fit a wider range of vessels with the omission of a roll-bar to clear anchor platforms, bowsprits, or prods.

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Anchoring Made Easy: A Newbie’s Guide to Securing Your Sailboat

What is anchoring?

Anchoring is a fundamental aspect of boating that involves securing your sailboat in a specific location using an anchor and chain.

When you anchor your sailboat, you are essentially creating a stable and secure position for your boat, regardless of the wind or current.

Table of Contents

Can you anchor a sailboat anywhere?

No, you can’t anchor just anywhere.

• First and foremost, you need to be aware of any regulations or restrictions in the area you plan to anchor.

Some harbors, marinas, or waterways have specific rules regarding anchoring, and it’s important to respect these guidelines.

• In addition, you’ll need to consider the bottom conditions.

Anchoring in rocky or weedy areas can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat . Ideally, you’ll want to find a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors .

• Furthermore, you should avoid anchoring in areas with heavy boat traffic.

Not only can this increase the chances of collisions, but it can also make it difficult for you to safely drop and retrieve your anchor.

Choosing the Right Anchor and Chain Size

The size and weight of your anchor will determine its ability to hold your boat securely in place, while the chain provides additional weight and strength to keep the anchor in position.

So, how do you choose the right anchor and chain size for your sailboat?

• First, consider the size and weight of your sailboat .

Larger boats require larger anchors and chains to provide adequate holding power.

As a general rule of thumb, it’s recommended to use an anchor that weighs 1 pound for every 2 feet of boat length.

So, if you have a 30-foot sailboat, a 15-pound anchor would be appropriate.

• Next, think about the type of bottom you’ll be anchoring in.

Different anchor designs work better in different types of seabeds, such as sand, mud, or rocks.

For sandy bottoms, a fluke or plow-style anchor is often recommended, while a grapnel or claw anchor is better suited for rocky bottoms.

Picking the Right Spot to Anchor

Choosing the right spot to anchor your sailboat is essential for a safe and enjoyable experience on the water. Whether you’re planning a short stop or an overnight stay, finding the perfect location can make all the difference.

So, how do you pick the right spot?

• First, consider the depth of the water.

You’ll want to find a spot with enough depth to accommodate the draft of your sailboat, plus some additional clearance to account for tides or changes in water levels.

Consult nautical charts or use a depth sounder to determine the water depth in the area you plan to anchor.

• Next, assess the bottom conditions.

Look for a sandy or muddy seabed, as these provide better holding power for anchors.

Avoid areas with rocky or weedy bottoms, as they can make it difficult for your anchor to dig in and secure your sailboat.

• Consider the surrounding environment as well.

Look for sheltered areas or natural features such as coves or bays that can protect from strong winds or currents . These areas will offer a more comfortable and secure anchorage for your sailboat.

• How Many Anchors Should You Have For Your Boat?
• The Power of Anchors: Why You Should Use Them to Keep Your Boat Safe
• Mooring Made Easy: A Step-by-Step Guide to Picking Up a Mooring for Your Boat
• How To Dock Your Boat Like A Pro: Stern-In, Bow-In, And Alongside

Preparing Your Sailboat for Anchoring

When preparing your sailboat for anchoring, there are several important things you need to do to ensure a smooth and successful docking experience.

Here are four essential tasks to complete before dropping your anchor :

1. Check your equipment: Before setting sail, make sure you have all the necessary anchoring equipment on board.

This includes an anchor, chain, and any additional gear such as a buoy or buoy line. Inspect your equipment to ensure it is in good condition and free of any damage or wear.

2. Secure loose items: Stow away any loose items on your sailboat that could become a hazard during the anchoring process.

This includes things like ropes , fenders, or loose equipment. Secure these items in designated storage areas or tie them down to prevent them from shifting or falling during anchoring.

3. Clear the deck: Remove any obstructions from your deck that could interfere with the anchoring process.

This includes items like cushions, coolers, or other personal belongings.

Clearing the deck will provide you with a clean and clutter-free area to work in when dropping anchor .

4. Prepare your crew: Brief your crew on their roles and responsibilities during the anchoring process.

Make sure everyone knows where to be and what to do when it’s time to anchor.

Assign specific tasks to each crew member, such as handling the anchor or controlling the helm, to ensure a coordinated and efficient docking experience.

The Step-by-Step Guide to Anchoring Your Sailboat

Follow these instructions, and you’ll be able to safely and effectively anchor your boat in no time.

1. Choose your anchor location

Before you start the process, select a suitable location to drop your anchor . Consider factors such as water depth, bottom conditions, and nearby hazards.

Once you’ve chosen the spot, approach it slowly and stop the boat when you’re in the desired location.

2. Prepare your anchor and chain

Make sure your anchor is ready for deployment. Remove any tangles or knots in the chain and ensure it’s securely attached to the anchor.

Double-check that the anchor is properly stored and accessible for deployment.

3. Determine the amount of anchor chain

Decide how much anchor chain you need to deploy based on the depth of the water.

A general rule of thumb is to use a ratio of 5:1 or 7:1 for the length of the anchor chain to the depth of the water. For example, if the water is 10 feet deep, deploy 50 to 70 feet of chain.

4. Drop the anchor

Carefully lower the anchor over the bow of your boat while paying out the chain.

Use a controlled speed and avoid letting the chain drop too quickly, as this could damage your boat or the anchor.

Make sure the anchor hits the bottom before releasing the chain.

5. Set the anchor

Once the anchor is on the bottom, put the boat in reverse at idle speed to ensure the anchor is firmly embedded.

Give it some time to settle and check that the boat is staying in position. Use a landmark on shore or your GPS to monitor any drifting.

6. Secure the anchor

Once you’re confident that the anchor is set, cleat off the chain or secure it to a bow cleat to prevent any accidental movement or slippage.

Double-check that the anchor is holding by slowly reversing the boat to put some pressure on the anchor.

• Congratulations! You’ve successfully anchored your sailboat. Remember to monitor your position and the anchor’s holding power throughout your stay. If you need to reposition or adjust the anchor, follow the same steps in reverse order.

How long can you be at anchor for on a sailboat?

In general, you can stay anchored for a few hours or overnight, but it’s important to check local regulations to ensure compliance.

Some areas have time limits for anchoring or require permits for longer stays.

Additionally, you’ll need to consider the weather forecast. If there are strong winds or rough seas expected, it may not be safe to remain anchored for an extended period.

What side of the vessel you should never anchor?

There is actually one side you should avoid at all costs: the bow , or the front of the boat.

Anchoring on the bow can lead to several problems and safety hazards.

Firstly, it can interfere with the boat’s steering and maneuverability, making it difficult to control the vessel in tight spaces or when approaching docks .

Secondly, anchoring on the bow can cause the boat to swing in unpredictable directions, especially when wind or currents change.

This can increase the risk of collision with other boats, docks, or hazards in the water.

To avoid these issues, always anchor your sailboat off the stern, or the back of the boat. This allows for better control and maneuverability, as well as a more stable anchoring experience.

Additionally, anchoring off the stern keeps the bow free for easy boarding and disembarking, making your sailing experience more convenient and enjoyable.

What happens when a sailboat drag anchor?

When a sailboat drags an anchor, it means that the anchor is no longer holding the boat in place.

This can occur for several reasons, such as changing wind or current conditions, a poorly set anchor, or inadequate anchor line length.

As the boat starts to drift, it can potentially collide with other boats, docks, or even run aground.

In this situation, it’s important to act quickly and calmly.

First, assess the immediate surroundings to determine any potential dangers or obstacles.

Then, try to reset the anchor by moving the boat in the opposite direction of the drift and dropping the anchor again.

If this doesn’t work, you may need to find a new anchorage or consider alternative methods, such as using a second anchor or seeking assistance from nearby boaters.

ANCHOR CALCULATOR

Calculate the safest anchor for your boat.

It is very important that you have the right anchor for your boat to keep you and your family safe. Our anchor calculator will recommend the best anchor for your boat based on the type of boat, its size and weight and the sort of boating activity you are wanting to do. Select your preferred measurement scale (metric or imperial) and then follow the path. Click on the boxes that best describe your situation, select the length and weight values and then press the red Calculate Your Anchor button. This anchor calculator is for boats up to 28m/90ft. For enquiries above this boat length please contact us directly. 

SELECT MEASUREMENT SCALE

New generation or traditional anchor.

New Generation Anchors

The New Generation anchor range use materials and designs suited to the latest boat designs.

Traditional Anchors

The Traditional anchor range uses classic designs like the Plough (CQR) or Ray (Bruce) Anchor suited to older boat styles.

WHAT ANCHOR TYPE?

Plough Anchor

BOAT SPECIFICATIONS

BOAT LENGTH (Metric)

Boat weight (metric), boat length (imperial), boat weight (imperial), your recommended anchors, we recommend the manson supreme anchor, however if your bow sprit conflicts with the supreme’s dimensions, we recommend the manson boss anchor. learn more about the anchor dimensions on the product pages..

Supreme Anchor (SHHP)

From $ 134.99 – $ 4,999.99

Chain Recommendation

You can rely on supreme safety with our best-selling anchor – the Manson Supreme. This anchor ensures your precious family gets the good night’s sleep they deserve. Aptly named the Manson Supreme, this anchor sets and holds immediately. It is considered the world’s safest anchor with innovative features that lead the industry. It is self-launching and self-righting, using a rollbar to make setting your anchor a worry-free process. The Manson Supreme Anchor will turn or quicky reset and hold with the wind and tide so you can sit back and enjoy your surroundings. Available in galvanized steel or exquisitely polished stainless steel.

Boss Anchor

From $ 179.99 – $ 9,499.99

The Manson Boss is a truly multi-purpose anchor. It was designed to have the same instant setting and high-holding power of the Manson Supreme, but to also fit the bow-rollers on motorboats. This new generation anchor operates in all seabeds, the sliding and fixed shank design ensures easy setting and retrieving, regardless of the conditions and your surroundings.

The Manson Boss Anchor gives you and your family the reassurance they need to sleep well while at anchor in unfamiliar places. This is a safe and reliable choice, used by thousands of boaters around the world. The Manson Boss really does perform like the Boss! Available in galvanized steel, black painted steel or exquisitely polished stainless steel.

Ray Anchor (HHP)

The Manson Ray Anchor is a very fast setting anchor, most suited for quick deployment and ‘no fuss’ anchoring.

The fast setting nature makes the Manson Ray ideal for use in crowded or narrow anchorages, particularly on sand or muddy seabeds.

The Manson Ray Anchor tends to be used more frequently on Super –  Sailing  – Yachts as a more traditional yacht type of anchor and it is then deployed via cassettes in the bow.

It is Lloyd’s Register Type Approved as an HHP (High Holding Power) anchor and available approved sizes from 5kg – 600kg, and unapproved up to 3425kg.

Plough Anchor (HHP)

Engineered to provide a strong and secure hold, 90% of all cruising boats use plough (CQR-style) anchors. The Manson Plough Anchor has hinged shanks, improving the scope of movement of the chain and has a weighted tip delivering secure reliable holding in sand, weeds and mud.

The Manson Plough Anchor is a proven yachting favourite and traditionally tends to be used on Super –  Sailing  – Yachts, deployed via an anchor deployment arm. Increasingly we are seeing designers select the Manson Plough Anchor in conjunction with the patent pending Subplough System from sister company Bowmaster. See here for more on this  underwater anchor deployment solution. 

The Manson Plough Anchor is Lloyd’s Register Type Approved as a HHP (High Holding Power) anchor and is available in approved sizes from 5kg – 1000kg, and unapproved from 1000kg – 5000kg.

This anchor calculator is a guide only.  It is not intended to replace or supercede any class or maritime sizing recommendations.  Lloyd’s Register rules apply to the Manson Supreme, Manson Plough and Manson Ray Anchors.  For any queries, please contact [email protected]

Anchor Types for Small Boats: A Comprehensive Guide

by Emma Sullivan | Aug 20, 2023 | Sailing Adventures

Short answer: Anchor types for small boats:

There are several anchor types suitable for small boats, including fluke anchors, grappling anchors, and mushroom anchors. Fluke anchors provide great holding power in sandy or muddy bottoms, while grappling anchors offer stability in rocky or weedy areas. Mushroom anchors are ideal for soft bottoms like mud or silt. It’s important to choose the anchor type based on your boat size, location, and bottom conditions to ensure secure anchoring.

Understanding the Importance of Anchor Types for Small Boats

When it comes to boating, particularly for small boats, understanding the importance of anchor types is crucial. Anchoring not only ensures the safety and stability of your vessel but also plays a significant role in various nautical activities such as fishing or enjoying a serene day on the water. In this blog post, we will dive into the details of different anchor types and why choosing the right one for your small boat is paramount.

First and foremost, let’s unravel the significance of anchors. An anchor is not just an ordinary object that keeps your boat in place – it has become an emblematic symbol throughout maritime history. Since ancient times, anchors have been utilized by sailors to secure their vessels against strong winds, currents, and tides. Nowadays, they are an indispensable tool for both professional boaters and recreational enthusiasts alike.

Now that we understand the historical backdrop behind anchors let’s delve into the specifics of anchor types suitable for small boats. One commonly used type is the fluke anchor – also known as a Danforth or lightweight anchor. Its design comprises two wide triangular blades attached to a hinged shank, allowing it to penetrate various seabeds effectively. This type is ideal for small boats due to its efficient holding power relative to its weight.

Another popular option is the plow or CQR (Coastal Quick Release) anchor . Resembling a traditional farming plowshare – hence its name – this type offers exceptional holding power in different bottom conditions such as sand, mud, gravel or grassy areas. The plow shape enables it to dig deep into the seabed while maintaining stable positioning during heavy gusts or tidal forces.

For those seeking versatility combined with straightforwardness in anchoring their small boats, nothing beats a mushroom anchor. As its name implies, this type closely resembles a mushroom shape with its round head and slender stem protruding downward. Mushroom anchors excel in situations where you require temporary anchorage or deal with a softer seabed, like sandy or muddy bottoms. They are easy to handle and don’t take up much space on board, making them a practical choice for smaller vessels.

Now that we have explored some anchor types suitable for small boats, let’s underscore the importance of choosing the right one based on various factors. One key aspect is determining the correct weight – selecting an anchor too light may result in poor holding power , while opting for an anchor too heavy can inflict unnecessary strain on your boat’s structure and handling. Additionally, consider the prevailing conditions of your boating area – taking into account factors such as wind speed, current strength, and bottom terrain will aid in selecting an appropriate anchor type .

In conclusion, understanding the importance of anchor types for small boats is paramount when venturing out onto the water. Anchoring ensures your vessel’s stability and safety during various nautical activities while adding a touch of historical significance to your boating experience. Remember to choose wisely based on weight requirements and prevailing conditions – this will ensure peace of mind knowing that your small boat is securely anchored, allowing you to fully immerse yourself in the joys of being out on the open seas.

How to Choose the Right Anchor Type for Your Small Boat: A Step-by-Step Guide

Choosing the right anchor type for your small boat is crucial for ensuring a safe and enjoyable boating experience. With so many options available in the market, it can be overwhelming to determine which anchor will best suit your needs. To help you make an informed decision, we have prepared a step-by-step guide that walks you through the process of selecting the perfect anchor for your small boat .

Step 1: Assess Your Boating Conditions

The first step in choosing an anchor is to evaluate the conditions in which you’ll be boating. Consider factors such as water depth , currents, bottom composition (sandy, rocky, or muddy), and weather conditions prevalent in your boating location. These details will provide vital information to understand what type of anchor will work best for your specific circumstances.

For example, if you frequently navigate turbulent waters with strong currents or encounter rough weather conditions, you’ll need an anchor that offers exceptional holding power. On the other hand, if you mainly sail on calm lakes or calm coastal waters with minimal currents, opting for a lighter and more compact anchor may suffice.

Step 2: Determine Your Boat’s Size and Weight

Every boat has different weight specifications that should be taken into account when choosing an anchor . Refer to your boat’s documentation or consult the manufacturer’s guidelines to find out its weight specifications.

It is essential to choose an anchor that can handle your boat ‘s weight adequately. Selecting one that is too light may result in poor holding capacity, leading to potential drifting or dragging of your vessel. Conversely, selecting an excessively heavy anchor may burden your small boat unnecessarily and hinder its overall performance.

Step 3: Understand Anchor Types

Now that you have assessed your boating conditions and determined your boat’s size and weight capacity, it is time to understand the various types of anchors available.

a) Fluke Anchors: Also known as Danforth anchors or sand anchors, they are ideal for sandy or muddy bottoms . Fluke anchors feature a stock with two sharp-pointed flukes that dig into the seabed, providing excellent holding power. These anchors are lightweight and easy to handle, making them suitable for small boats.

b) Plow Anchors: Designed with versatility in mind, plow anchors (or CQR anchors) perform well in various bottom conditions, including sand, mud, and grassy areas. Their design allows them to penetrate deep into the substrate while offering high holding power and strength. Plow anchors have become popular due to their reliability and efficiency.

c) Claw Anchors: Commonly known as Bruce or Bruce-type anchors, these are great for rocky or hard bottom conditions. Claw anchors excel in setting quickly and maintaining a strong grip on the seabed. Their unique shape allows easy retrieval from different angles, presenting an advantage particularly when maneuvering in tight spaces.

Step 4: Consider Additional Anchor Accessories

Alongside your anchor choice, there are several accessories that can enhance its performance and functionality. These include anchor chains, shackles, swivels, buoy lines, and anchor rollers.

Anchor chains provide extra weight to improve your anchor’s holding ability by creating a vertical pull angle. Shackles help secure the chain to the anchor securely while allowing flexibility during retrieval. Swivels prevent twisting of the chain or rope connected to the anchor when turning with changing tides or wind conditions.

Buoy lines can be valuable additions as they make it easier to lift and release the anchor when necessary. Finally, an anchor roller mounted on your boat’s bow facilitates smooth deployment/retrieval of the anchor without causing damage to your vessel or yourself.

Step 5: Research Brands and Seek Expert Advice

Before making a final decision on which brand or model of anchor suits you best, take some time to research reputable manufacturers known for producing high-quality marine equipment . Read customer reviews and seek recommendations from experienced boaters to get insights into the reliability and performance of different anchor brands.

For further assistance, consider consulting with a marine expert who can help you choose an anchor that aligns perfectly with your boat’s specifications and specific boating conditions. They can provide invaluable insights and address any questions or concerns you may have before making your purchase.

By following these step-by-step guidelines, you will be able to confidently select the right anchor type for your small boat . Remember, investing in a high-quality anchor tailored to your boating needs is essential for ensuring safety, peace of mind, and maximum enjoyment during your adventures on the water.

Frequently Asked Questions about Anchor Types for Small Boats Answered

Title: Demystifying Anchor Types for Small Boats: Your Ultimate Guide

Introduction:

Choosing the right anchor for your small boat may seem like a daunting task. With various options available, it’s essential to understand which type will best suit your needs. In this article, we’ll address some of the frequently asked questions about anchor types for small boats, helping you make an informed decision that guarantees safety and convenience in any anchoring situation.

1. What are the different anchor types suitable for small boats?

When it comes to small boats, three primary anchor types stand out: Fluke anchors (also known as Danforth anchors), Plow anchors (like CQR and Delta), and Mushroom anchors. Each type has its unique features and strengths that cater to different boating scenarios.

2. Which anchor type is best suited for sandy or muddy bottoms?

For sandy or muddy bottoms, Fluke anchors reign supreme due to their excellent holding power . The multiple flukes dig into the sediment effectively, offering reliable security even in adverse conditions.

3. Are plow-style anchors more suitable for rocky or grassy seabeds?

If you often navigate areas with rocky or grassy seabeds, plow-style anchors – such as CQR or Delta – are ideal options. Their sharp, pointed shape easily penetrates these challenging terrains, ensuring a secure hold.

4. Can I use a mushroom anchor for my small boat ?

Mushroom anchors work best in situations where heavy weight is necessary but not excessive holding power. While they provide stability on flat bottoms like lakes and calm waters if you encounter strong currents or turbulent conditions, the mushroom anchor might struggle to hold steady.

5. Does size matter when choosing an anchor for a small boat ?

Absolutely! Selecting the appropriate size is crucial when it comes to anchoring safety on smaller vessels. Choosing an undersized anchor can compromise its ability to hold securely during unexpected weather changes or high winds. Always consult sizing charts and recommendations provided by anchor manufacturers to ensure you select the right size for your boat .

6. How do I determine the appropriate anchor weight for my small boat ?

To determine the ideal anchor weight, consider factors such as your boat’s length, displacement, and windage. Typically, experts recommend using a rule of thumb that suggests one pound of anchor weight for every foot of boat length (e.g., 20 lbs for a 20-foot vessel). However, it’s advisable to reference manufacturer guidelines or consult with experts to ascertain precise requirements.

7. What additional equipment should I have when anchoring my small boat ?

Besides an appropriate anchor, you’ll need an adequate length of quality anchor chain or line. Additionally, investing in a reliable bow roller or hawsepipe system to guide the rode smoothly can prevent potential damage to both your boat and the anchoring gear.

Conclusion:

By understanding the different anchor types available for small boats and their suitable applications, you can make an educated choice that ensures safety and peace of mind while out on the water. Remember to factor in variables such as seabed conditions, vessel size, and adequate anchoring equipment when making your final selection. With this comprehensive guide at hand, you’re well-prepared to embark on memorable boating adventures without any anchors holding you back!

Exploring Different Anchoring Methods for Small Boats: Which Type Works Best?

Are you an avid boater who is constantly on the lookout for the best anchoring method? Look no further! In this blog post, we will be exploring various anchoring methods for small boats and determining which type works best. So, sit back, relax, and let’s dive into the fascinating world of boat anchors!

When it comes to anchoring your small boat, there are several types of anchors to choose from. Each anchor type has its own unique features and benefits, making it essential to understand the pros and cons before making a decision.

1. Fluke Anchors: Fluke anchors, also known as Danforth anchors, are one of the most common choices among boaters. Their popularity can be attributed to their lightweight design and excellent holding power in sand or mud bottoms. These anchors feature sharp triangular blades that dig into the seabed and provide strong resistance against dragging.

While fluke anchors excel in sand or mud bottoms, they might struggle in rocky or weedy areas where their blades can get stuck. Additionally, their lightweight nature might make them less suitable for larger boats or in rough weather conditions .

2. Plow Anchors: Plow anchors are considered as all-rounders due to their ability to hold securely in a wide range of bottom types such as sand, mud, grass, and even rocky areas. These anchors feature a hinged plow-like design that ensures penetration into the seabed and incredible holding power even when subjected to changing tidal currents .

The downside of plow anchors lies in their weightiness compared to other options available. Carrying around a heavy plow anchor could be cumbersome if you frequently embark on sailing adventures alone or lack physical strength.

3. Mushroom Anchors: If you primarily boat on calm waters without strong currents or winds, mushroom anchors might just be what you need. As the name suggests, these anchors resemble mushrooms with broad caps sitting atop towering stalks that bury themselves into the soft bottom sediments. Mushroom anchors are incredibly stable and provide a solid hold , especially in muddy or sandy bottoms.

However, mushroom anchors do have their limitations. Due to their design, they might not perform well in rough waters or areas with strong currents, as they do not penetrate as effectively as other anchor types.

4. Grapnel Anchors: Grapnel anchors are a popular choice for small boat owners who frequently navigate rocky or weedy areas. These anchors feature multiple folding tines or flukes that can easily hook onto rocks, reefs, or other structures on the seabed. Their compact size makes them convenient for storage and deployment.

While grapnel anchors prove successful in challenging environments, it’s important to note that they may not offer the same level of holding power as larger and heavier alternatives such as plow anchors . Moreover, they can sometimes become entangled in seaweed or get stuck under boulders.

Now that we’ve explored different anchoring methods for small boats let’s answer the big question – which type works best? The truth is there isn’t a one-size-fits-all answer. The best anchoring method depends on various factors such as the boating conditions you often encounter, your boat size and weight, and personal preferences.

To find your perfect anchor , consider talking to experienced boaters who can offer insights based on their own experiences. Additionally, evaluating online reviews and seeking professional advice from marine supply stores could further assist you in making an informed decision.

Remember, choosing the right anchor is crucial for ensuring safety and peace of mind while enjoying unforgettable moments out on the water. So go ahead – make an educated choice that suits your boating needs and sail away with confidence!

Tips and Tricks for Using Anchor Types Suitable for Small Boats

Title: Anchoring Success for Small Boat Enthusiasts: Unveiling Tips, Tricks, and Clever Insights

Introduction: Ahoy, fellow seafarers! If you’re a small boat enthusiast seeking the ultimate anchor type guidance, look no further. In this enlightening journey, we’ll equip you with invaluable tips and tricks to navigate the vast ocean of anchor options suitable for your beloved vessel. From mastering the art of anchor selection to handling unforeseen challenges, we’ve got you covered!

1. Size Matters: Choose Wisely: Picture this – you’ve found that idyllic spot to drop your anchor but end up watching your boat drift away helplessly. Avoid such nightmares by selecting an anchor suitable for your boat’s size and weight . For small crafts, lightweight options such as the fluke or grapnel anchors work like a charm in shallow waters. Consider factors like windage and current to determine the ideal size that will provide optimum holding power.

2. The Claw’s Mighty Grip: When it comes to versatility and effectiveness, few anchors match the mighty claw (also known as Bruce) in smaller boats. Its unique design allows it to dig deep into various seabeds while ensuring remarkable holding power even in challenging conditions. This exceptional combination makes it a popular choice among experienced sailors .

3. The Folding Anchor: Nimble & Practical: Don’t let limited storage space hinder your nautical adventures ! Enter the folding anchor – a clever invention designed specifically for small boats. Its collapsible nature ensures effortless stowage without compromising performance when deployed. Always carry one along; you never know when an impromptu anchorage opportunity may arise!

4. Understanding Bottom Composition: Unleashing the mysteries lurking beneath is essential knowledge every seasoned sailor must possess! Familiarize yourself with different bottom compositions – be they sandy shores, muddy bottoms, or rocky terrains – as each requires a specific style of anchor penetration. Match your anchor to the seabed for optimal grip and minimize unsettling surprises.

5. Mastering the Art of Setting: Ah, setting an anchor – a delicate dance between precision and technique! While it may seem straightforward, fine-tuning this ritual can make all the difference. Once dropped, allow your boat to drift backward while paying out sufficient scope (rope length) to provide a secure hold. Engaging reverse gear gently helps set the anchor by adding slight tension before solidifying its grip.

6. Securing Against Dragging: Imagine returning from an enjoyable shore excursion only to find your vessel waving at you from afar – an unfortunate spectacle indeed! Prevent dragging mishaps by attaching buoy lines or additional anchors for added security in high winds or tidal changes. Embrace redundancy and remain prepared for nature’s unexpected whims!

7. Boating with Confidence: Routine Checks: Regular equipment inspection is crucial in maintaining smooth sailing experiences. Routinely examine your anchor system, ropes, shackles, and attachment points for signs of wear and tear. Replace worn-out components promptly to ensure uninterrupted adventures on the open waters .

Conclusion: Congratulations, dear mariners! Equipped with these expert tips and clever insights into choosing appropriate anchor types for small boats, you’re now ready to conquer any waterbody gracefully and confidently. Embrace the wisdom imparted here; hoist those sails, drop those anchors – let’s explore the vast expanse with ease! Safe travels, fellow boat enthusiasts !

Safety Considerations when Using Anchor Types for Small Boats

When it comes to anchoring your small boat, safety should always be the top priority. Whether you’re out on a calm lake or braving the open ocean, choosing the right anchor type and understanding how to use it properly can make all the difference in ensuring the security of your vessel. In this blog post, we will explore some essential safety considerations that every boat owner should keep in mind when using different types of anchors for their small boats.

1. Understanding Your Boat’s Requirements: Every boat has unique characteristics and requirements when it comes to anchoring. Factors such as weight, length, and hull design can affect which anchor type is suitable for your vessel . Ensure that you have thoroughly researched and understood your boat’s specifications before making any decisions regarding anchors .

2. The Importance of Proper Storage: Anchors are heavy objects made from various materials such as steel or aluminum. Improper storage can lead to accidents on board if the anchor isn’t secured correctly. It is crucial to have a designated storage space for your anchor that guarantees stability while underway. This consideration ensures not only your safety but also those who are onboard with you.

3. Know Your Anchor Types: There are several anchor types available in the market, each serving specific purposes under diverse conditions. Knowing which anchor type is appropriate for different bottom types (sand, mud, rocky) will help secure your boat effectively. For example:

– Fluke/Plow Anchors: Ideal for soft or sandy bottoms with good holding power. – Danforth/Claw Anchors: Versatile and efficient in a range of seabeds but may struggle with weed-covered or hard-packed bottoms. – Mushroom Anchors: Designed for small boats and work well in soft or muddy bottoms. – Navy Anchors: Suitable if you typically sail in rocky areas where traditional fluke-style anchors might struggle to gain traction.

4. Proper Anchor Sizing: Size matters when it comes to anchors. Choosing the appropriate size for your boat is crucial for its overall stability and safety. Under-sizing an anchor can lead to dragging or poor holding power in adverse conditions, while over-sizing can create excess weight and handling difficulties. Consult anchoring charts or seek advice from experts to determine the correct anchor size for your small boat.

5. Anchoring Techniques and Precautions: Correct anchoring techniques are essential knowledge for any boat owner. Ensure you understand how to deploy, set, and retrieve an anchor properly without causing damage to your vessel or endangering yourself. Additionally, always check weather forecasts before heading out on the water, as unexpected changes in wind or current can put stress on your anchoring system.

6. Regular Maintenance and Inspections: Like any other piece of equipment on a boat , anchors require regular maintenance and inspections for optimal performance and extended lifespan. Check for signs of wear such as rust, sharp edges, or bent parts that could compromise the anchor’s effectiveness. Also, ensure that all related components like shackles or chains are in good condition.

By paying close attention to these safety considerations, you’ll be better equipped to choose the right anchor type for your small boat and handle it with confidence when needed. Remember that safety always comes first when venturing out onto the water – taking precautions today will ensure enjoyable boating experiences for years to come!

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Joe Biden’s new ‘boat anchor’ shoes meant for maximum ‘stability’ as president’s falls spark concern

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It’s gotta be the shoes.

President Biden’s new footwear has fed rumors that the 81-year-old incumbent needs  extra stability following a series of falls and stumbles .

Biden has recently been photographed sporting a black pair of Hoka Transport sneakers with his formal suits rather than more traditional dress shoes.

The Hokas are meant for “hiking,” “walking” and “lifestyle” and feature a “quick-toggle lace … designed for easy on and off,” according to the product website — which offers the shoes for between $150 and $200 per pair and also advertises “neutral” stability for wearers who want “a symmetrical bed of cushion.”

The sneakers also boast a seal of approval from the American Podiatric Association as being good for foot health, a benefit which could come in handy for Biden after his recent  physical revealed  he suffers from a “stiffened gait.”

Eagle-eyed observers first noticed the new shoes in late February, about the same time the president received his annual exam.

Social media users have been quick to wonder  if the sneakers were prescribed to  mitigate the president’s several falls .

Biden has especially struggled going up and down the steps of Air Force One, repeatedly slipping and stumbling while ascending to and  descending from his official plane .

After a series of near-pratfalls, the president has opted to use retractable stairs at the back of the plane for boarding — rather than the regular longer steps at the front of the aircraft.

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Biden’s slips culminated in an  ugly tumble at the Air Force Academy commencement exercises in June last year, in which he tripped on a sandbag and fell heavily to the stage.

Politico first reported on Biden’s increasing use of tennis shoes back in January, citing a source close to the president who said Biden used to “resist” wearing the casual shoes because he was concerned about not looking presidential enough — but eventually conceded for reasons of comfort.

White House deputy press secretary Andrew Bates claimed Wednesday that Biden uses the active footwear to help him stay fit.

“I know y’all aren’t partial to presidents who exercise, but don’t worry — you’ll get used to it,” Bates told The Post, apparently alluding to former President Donald Trump.

Biden participates in physical therapy to increase his “core stability” at least “four to five times a week,” according to the report from his annual physical.

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Chicago Boat Show to drop anchor in Rosemont after 92 years in the city

The Chicago Boat Show — the Midwest recreational boating industry’s marquee wintertime event held annually within the city of Chicago for 92 years — will set sail from its home on the lakefront and drop anchor in Rosemont, organizers said.

The convention will ship out from McCormick Place and dock at the Donald E. Stephens Convention Center Jan. 8-12, 2025.

Organizers said the move was prompted by a thorough market analysis, exhibitor demand and boater feedback that sought a closer location to where boaters live and boat dealers have their marinas, like SkipperBud’s and The Boat House on the Chain O’ Lakes.

“The more centralized Rosemont location positions the show for growth, accommodating the expanding boating population across a broader Chicagoland region, from the city and surrounding neighborhoods to the suburbs and exurbs of Chicago, and surrounding states,” said Darren Envall, vice president of Midwest boat and sport shows for the National Marine Manufacturers Association, which runs the show.

The boat show joins other outdoor-themed conventions held annually at the 840,000-square-foot Rosemont convention center, including the Chicago RV & Camping Show, Chicago Golf Show and Travel & Adventure Show.

Christopher Stephens, executive director of the convention center, said village officials are pleased to welcome the boat show to town. He attributed the move to Rosemont’s convenient location, close parking and amenities.

The 2025 show — its 93rd, in a history that spans to Chicago’s old International Amphitheatre — will showcase hundreds of large and small boats for sale, from entry level personal watercraft and aluminum fishing boats, to wake sport boats and luxury cruisers, officials said.

Exhibitors are expected from Illinois, Indiana, Michigan and Wisconsin.

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