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Port Windows and Portlights

Life belowdecks needn't be dim and dismal. Let the sunlight in with new portlights and boat windows from Great Lakes Skipper. Our huge inventory of new and replacement boat parts includes boat windows, fixed portlights, opening portlights, portlights with screens, and marine portlights in a range of colors, shapes, and sizes. We carry boat portlights from Bomar, Gebo, Hi-Tide Manufacturing, Jim Black, Lewmar, Taylor-Made, Diamond Sea Glaze, and many more top brands. Check out our amazing discount prices - you'll love them! 

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Chaparral Boat Trim Ring GT516FIX-76 | 18 x 7 5/8 Inch Tan Plastic

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New Found Metals

New Found Metals

Selling high-quality hand-cast marine hardware since 1975..

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Why Buy From Us?

New Found Metals portlights are the best portlights you can buy and install. What makes NFM different from other suppliers of Port Windows? What makes us special?

First, our primary customer is you the individual, the sailor, the world cruiser, the yachtsman, and all hands on people like yourself.

Secondly, we answer the phone and we only sell direct so there is no dealer between you and our great support staff.

Our design, construction, and engineering reflect our listening and learning from you and your experiences since 1975.  We know that preparing a boat for world cruising is no small undertaking.

Our Port Townsend staff is with you throughout the installation process with guidance and the tools you need to get the job done quickly and effectively. But don’t just ask us, ask the thousands of sailors these past thirty years who have successfully replaced old Portlights with NFM Portlights on boats from Able to Yorktown.

Explore our Portlights , Portlight Accessories , and Marine Hardware  online, or download the Product Price List then call to order, (360) 385-3315.

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  • We received the 5 X 12 Trimatrix Port yesterday....and I installed it today. WOW!! I really like the port, and my wife likes it too!! What is really great about it is the fact that it is a really good direct replacement for the Atkins Hoyle 5 X 12.... I only had to use your template to drill the holes for your port and notch out for the rain drains...and put the port in. Easy as could be!! We will be ordering a bunch more soon...a few at a time! Rob Homan

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  • Yesterday I finished the installation of the six new stainless ports I ordered from you. I am thrilled with the way it turned out. From day one when I purchased this boat I did not like the touch and feel nor the look of the plastic ports. The new ports are much more functional and easy to operate. They look like jewelry for the boat and really enhance her salty appearance. Thanks again for offering a great product. Lucian Jorg
  • We are so happy that we went to New Found Metals and installed the portlights!  We have installed 4 of the 8 portlights so far and they went in easily and look fantastic.  What a great and helpful owner and company.  We highly recommend the switch using New Found Metals. Kerry O'Brien La Fitte 44
  • They've been great - my only regret is that I got the 3x11 portlights for the V-berth and the head; I'd be better off with 4x11 portlights Rick Westlake Bristol 29.9
  • FYI they fit almost seamlessly just had to use a laminate trimmer to open the area for the spigot drain. Jim Burnett 1983 Nordic Tug

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Portlight Replacement

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Over time, plastic portlights lose clarity. Polishing can't correct issues like crazing and discoloration. Sometimes pane replacement is the only solution.

Portlight

Photo: Billy Black

Once you've established that your portlights need replacing, the first thing you need to do is find new ones. If your portlights are round, oval, or rectangular, chances are they're a catalog item originally supplied by a hatch-and-portlight manufacturer such as Beckson, Bomar, Gebo, Lewmar, Taylor, or Vetus. Even irregular portlights are often shared across a number of boat models and become available as off-the-shelf items. If your boat's manufacturer is still in business, their customer-service department can probably tell you who manufactured the original windows. Where an exact match isn't a requirement, locating the appropriate replacement can be as easy as taking a couple of measurements and surfing the Web.

If you find that your particular portlights aren't available as a standard item, the easiest and surely the least expensive option will be to select a standard portlight that requires a slightly larger opening in one or both dimensions. Enlarging an opening is typically just a matter of minor grinding or sawing, while reducing the size of the opening is a major glasswork project. Don't think you can make up the difference with extra sealant.

If you're intent on a perfect fit for an existing opening, and you're unable to locate a suitable catalog-item window, custom manufacture is an option. Check around for small manufacturers in your area or contact one of the big players in this market such as Bomon or Vetus. It's worth noting that many standard-size fixed portlights are also available in an opening version, often at a surprisingly small additional cost. If much of your boating happens in a hot climate, replacing fixed windows with portlights that open will deliver the additional benefit of improved cabin ventilation.

Ins And Outs Of Removal

Old portlights may be screwed, bolted, clamped, or glued in place. Where the flange and/or trim ring exhibits fastener heads (sometimes hidden under a flexible insert), remove these. Anticipate that the fasteners will be corroded in place, so be sure you use the largest available driver that mates perfectly with the fastener. A hand impact tool can be helpful in freeing old marine fasteners. Where the flange is sealed with a gasket, you should be able to separate it from the boat by gently prying with a stiff putty knife, using a second wedge behind to maintain the separation you gain as you work your way around the window. If sealant was used for the installation, you'll likely need to combine cutting with your prying. The best tool is a single-edge razor blade — in a holder initially, then not in a holder to allow deeper penetration. A carpet knife is a good and arguably safer option. The safest way to cut sealant is with leader wire or braided fishing line. Attach dowel handles to a 15-inch length of thin braided wire or line and saw this back and forth in your initial knife cut. Use shallow wedges behind the wire to allow deeper penetration. If, (and hopefully not), the seal is with polyurethane — 3M 5200 — you may need the chemical assistance of DeBond Marine Formula.

Portlight replacement step 1 illustration

Illustrations: Paul Mirto

Portlight replacement step 2 illustration

It's All In The Prep

With the old window out, you'll need to prepare the opening for the replacement. This is also the time to trace a pattern if you're having the replacement custom fabricated. Be aware that there are often substantial differences in port and starboard cutouts on the same boat, so don't assume that a single pattern will suffice for two or more seemingly identical portlights. Trace out and identify a pattern for each opening.

Start your preparation for the new portlight by removing every trace of gasket or sealant material. Scrape with a sharp plastic blade, then buff with a Scotchbrite pad, and finally block-sand with 180-grit paper. If the old sealant was silicone, you have an extra challenge because silicone leaves behind a residue that prevents new sealant, even new silicone, from adhering. With the silicone scraped away, but before sanding, wet contaminated surfaces with a xylene-saturated rag, then blot-wipe clean with paper towels, using lots of fresh paper towels to pick up rather than spread the contamination. Sand only after water misted onto the cleaned surface sheets rather than beads.

Portlight replacement step 4 illustration

Examine the edge of the cutout for damage to a wood core, or to an interior wood liner, and make appropriate repairs. Fill unused fastener holes with a stiff epoxy paste. Don't be surprised to discover that the corner radii are crude or inaccurate. You can improve them with the same epoxy paste. Fair your filled holes and corner adjustments and you should be ready to install the portlights.

Nothing But Pane

Surface-mounted acrylic windows are common on sailboats and can be an economical option for any boat. This is simply a piece of clear acrylic larger than the opening and fastened directly to the cabin side. Overlap all around should be at least an inch, but if the acrylic has a dark tint, its size and shape can be dictated by appearance. No frame is used, but the outside edges of the plastic are typically rounded and polished. Closely spaced fasteners through oversize finishing washers around the perimeter used to make surface-mounted windows unattractive, and prone to cracking, but today's modern adhesives have given surface mounting a fresh lease.

Using black poster board to make patterns will provide a preview of the end appearance. You can have the plastic supplier cut the windows or fabricate them yourself. After appropriate cleaning, de-glossing, and masking or unmasking, the installation process is to apply double-sided VHB (very high bond) acrylic tape 1/2-inch wide by .091 thick (3M 4991) around the entire perimeter 1/2-inch in from the edge, then, taking great care with your alignment — there's no adjusting after the tape touches — press the window to the boat. Mask the pane edge and the boat 1/8-inch beyond the plastic and use a caulking gun to overfill the perimeter gap with Dow Corning 795 architectural-grade silicone sealant. Create a fillet with your fingertip, peel the mask, and your new window is installed.

Easy Install

Your specific installation should be guided by the instructions provided by the supplier of your new windows, so here you're going to find only supplemental guidance. Many modern portlights are sealed by a rubber gasket under the outside flange and clamped in place by screws through the inside flange. If the gasket has a seam, place it at the bottom of the window. The primary concern for gasket-sealed portlights is to make sure the mounting surface is flat. When you dry-fit the window (without the gasket), any gap around the perimeter of the flange must be less than 1/16-inch. You also want the window to slide into the opening without binding. Hole clearance all around of about 1/16-inch is ideal. Paying attention to these two requirements, follow the manufacturer's instruction for installation.

Portlight replacement step 5 illustration

Some manufacturers will instruct you to seat the outside flange onto a bed of marine sealant, either to seal, or to bond, or both. You still need a flat mounting surface and a slip fit. For mechanically fastened portlights, the best bedding choice is butyl tape, a solid sealant that will not be ejected when you compress the flange against the boat.

Portlights to be bonded in place require the adhesive strength of a curing liquid sealant. To avoid squeezing out most of the sealant when you clamp or press the window in place, glue small spacers to the underside of the flange, one at each corner and additional ones as necessary to keep the span between them under 10 inches. Spacers should be 1/8-inch thick and perhaps 1/4-inch across, cut from any plastic or hard rubber and fixed in place with the sealant you're using to bed the flange.

Just before applying the sealant, always wipe both flange and boat with alcohol to remove oily contamination. You'll avoid the potential mess of bad aim if you apply your sealant only to the flange. A suction handle is a useful tool for positioning sealant-coated portlights.

Solid-sealant squeeze-out is easily trimmed away with a plastic blade, but you'll get a neater job with liquid sealant if you first mask both boat and flange edge. Masking the boat 1/8-inch beyond the flange trace line will allow you to shape the sealant into an attractive fillet with your finger (wetted in turpentine for the best effect). This permits removal of the tape before the sealant cures, which avoids problems that occur when the sealant cures to the tape.

If the window clamps in place with internal fasteners, tighten them evenly. Sealant must ooze out the entire perimeter of the portlight, so be sure you apply it liberally. You can wipe away excess, but if you apply too little, you must start all over. The spacers assure a uniform gasket. In addition to your clear view, your boat gets a facelift from this project. That makes it a buy-one-get-one-free deal. No coupon required.

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Contributor, BoatUS Magazine

Don Casey has been one of the most consulted experts on boat care and upgrades for 30 years, and is one of the BoatUS Magazine's panel of experts. He and his wife cruise aboard their 30-footer part of the year in the eastern Caribbean. His books include Don Casey's Complete Illustrated Sailboat Maintenance Manual, and the recently updated This Old Boat, the bible for do-it-yourself boaters.

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Portlights for Sailboats & Power Yachts

Beckson Marine

The fight against mold and mildew is a constant battle on a boat - which is why proper cabin ventilation is so important. Keeping good airflow through your boat helps keep air from stagnating and producing too much moisture - a perfect home for all types of mold. At MAURIPRO Sailing we carry a wide variety of portlights for sailboats & power yachts to help keep your boat dry. We offer all the best brands, including Beckson, Lewmar and Vetus.

MAURIPRO Sailing, your direct access to Portlights for Sailboats & Power Yachts and all your other sailing and boating needs.

Copyright © 2024 MAURIPRO Sailing LLC.

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Replacement Port Lights

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Control of light and ventilation is key to cabin temperature and to your comfort below deck.

Lewmar’s comprehensive range of hatches and portlights offers a solution, whether on a small day boat or superyacht. Combining years of manufacturing experience with the latest in design trends, the Hatch and Portlight Range bears all the features you have come to expect of a high-quality Lewmar product.

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My Sailing Fix

My Sailing Fix

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Portlight Replacement

The opening portlights on Priorities began leaking when the boat was about 18 years old. The rubber seals had cracked over time and were no longer effective, especially due to the sheer of the sides of the cabinhouse. Actually, the four portlights in the main cabin had been replaced by a previous owner, so problems may have began before I even bought her.

The forward head leaked especially bad, making its shade mildewy, though it at least dribbled into the sink. The aft head portlight caused rainwater to puddle under the toilet, initially leaving a “Uh, what is the puddle of mystery liquid appearing under the hoses of the toilet?” reaction when I first noticed it occurring.

Priorities is a Catalina 400, hull number 53, informally referred to as a “Mark I” after the updated “Mark II” was released in the late 90s. Much (or maybe all) of the Mark Is were equipped with Lewmar “Old” Standard Portlights… 6 opening size 2s forward, 2 opening size 0s aft, and four fixed portlights below the toerail (I think sizes 2 and 0).

Original Lewmar Old Standard Portlight in forward cabin

Lewmar changed the design of their “Standard” Portlights in 1997 but kept the name “Standard,” so the two versions are now referred to as “Old” Standard and “New” Standard. The cutout dimensions are almost but not exactly the same, though after replacing 4 portlights on Priorities I haven’t needed to make any modifications to the cutouts in my hull for any portlight. New Standard portlights have an upgraded dogging (or latching) system, where the dogs are pressed to lock rather than twisted to lock. There’s also only one joint in the outer frame rather than two, which probably makes it stronger and therefore more likely to seal.

Replacing the seals in the Old Standard Portlights was something I considered since it didn’t require removing the entire assembly. A new seal and new dogs on each portlight were around half the cost of a new portlight, but still left me with old windows that were starting to craze. Researching online also made me wary of the probability of success I might have when replacing the seals, and I learned it might take quite a bit of time.

My lack of confidence in repairing the portlights led me to replace them instead. Since the new ones were nearly a drop-in replacement, I figured it wouldn’t take much longer (and might be faster) to replace rather than repair, and I’d have a better design with new windows.

Removing the inner plastic trim piece on each portlight was easy since they merely snap on and off. After the trim was removed, the hull cutout was easily visible and measureable, revealing my first challenge: the hull cutout thickness (40-50mm) was slightly more than recommended in the installation instructions. This was somewhat of an issue since the included stainless steel metric screws used to attach each portlight were too short, and replacements of the proper length weren’t easily available at the local hardware stores. The screws couldn’t be too long, either, because they can’t contact the outer flange of the frame without stripping the inner flange screw holes. Additionally, the plastic trim might not quite be long enough.

Measuring the screws used to attach the old portlights, which didn’t seem to use metric threads, led me to order a bunch of 40, 45, and 50mm screws from McMaster-Carr . Since McMaster ships from several locations in the US, including Chicago, I received them within 48 hours of my order.

I removed and replaced each portlight before moving to the next portlight so if I encountered obstacles along the way I wouldn’t have too many holes in the boat. Since there’s no cure time with my chosen bedding sealant, I could replace one portlight in the morning, then go for a sail in the afternoon, spreading the project over a few days (some I did in the boatyard).

Prior to removing each portlight, I test fit each new portlight over the old to see how reasonable the fit would be… the New Standard Portlights have a slightly different curve in each corner than the Old Standard, though it was always a good fit on Priorities.

Removing the old portlights were really the only other minor challenge. Catalina installed them with a sealant that has some adhesive properties (maybe 3M 4200), so I had to carefully use a hammer and putty knife to break the seal after removing the screws. Each portlight took 30-45 minutes to remove because of this.

Hull cutout after old portlight removed

In preparation for the new portlight, I spent a little time making sure the gelcoat around the opening was clean and smooth. It doesn’t need to be perfect, but removing silicone or other old caulk is important for getting a good, watertight seal when using any bedding compound.

As a sealant, or bedding, for the new portlights I used Bed It Butyl Tape by Compass Marine . Compass Marine is owned by Practical Sailor contributor Rod Collins, who also regularly contributes his expert advice as “MaineSail” on various boating web forums like Sailboat Owners.com . I’ve used his butyl tape for bedding lots of deck hardware and it’s been excellent… it works very similar to plumber’s putty, but in tape form and a little bit stickier.

Adding Butyl Tape to portlight

After carefully squishing each new portlight in place, I gradually tightened the mounting screws in back. I tightened in a sequence similar to tightening a cylinder head, working my way from screws in the center and out to screws in the sides of the frame. Since there’s only about 7 or 8mm of space between the inner and outer flanges of the frame, and the screws can strip if they are screwed in too deeply, I would start with using screws that were just barely long enough to get a few threads in the frame. After a few rounds of gradually tightening each of the 12-16 screws, which also squished the bedding compound, I would replace some of the screws with slightly shorter screws one by one, thus allowing me to gently bring the screws to final torque without hitting the other flange of the outer frame. Final torque should only be 25 in-lb., which isn’t super tight.

New portlight installed, but with no trim

Approaching final torque, I tested the operation of the portlight by opening and closing it a few times. The new portlights are built so solidly I never really got worried about it binding when opening or closing.

Newly installed portlight

A cool thing about using butyl tape is that it never cures or dries. However, it does slowly “ooze,” so a day after installation I retightened the screws to final torque, then carefully trimmed the excess butyl tape away. When trimming the butyl tape, it’s important NOT to pull any more material out from under the frame… I used a sharp knife to cut the excess.

Portlight with butyl tape showing

I tested watertightness with a hose, as well as after several rainstorms, and never had any issues.

After testing for watertightness, I installed the new trim piece. The plastic trim simply snaps in place on the inner frame after trimming its depth to fit. Since all of my portlights were in thick parts of the hull, mine required no trimming at all. A small, nearly invisible space exists between the trim and the inner flange of the outer frame, and I may fill that gap with a white tape to prevent water from getting trapped between the trim and the hull… if I ever get around to it.

Portlight with small gap between trim and outer frame.

In the end, each portlight took about two and a half hours from start to finish, not including time to measure or read the instructions. It actually was pretty easy, too, and now we have clean, leak free, opening portlights in both our heads!

Newly installed portlight.

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One thought on “Portlight Replacement”

Old standard and new standard portlights require the same length and width cutout dimensions. The variance is the corner radius. Old standard uses 58mm versus 62mm for the New standard meaning the OS cutout is more squared off. That means at its largest in the middle of the corners the OS cutout with be about 3.5 mm larger than the NS. If the original cutouts on your boat are precise without much slop, the NS will work in the corners, but without a lot of outer frame bearing surface to spare. Dry fitting a NS portlight into your existing cutout will tell you where you stand. I too like Bed-It butyl elastomer hybrid tape for this application, with a couple caveats. Bed-It tape is 1.58 mm thick so you might want to start with a little more than 1 layer. When clamping inner and outer frames together compress enough to achieve squeeze out slowly over multiple tightening events and multiple days. To avoid failure do not compress the butyl to less than 1mm. When squeeze out is complete check mounting screws periodically to make sure they stay snug. Bed-it is not an adhesive, and I was surprised to find many of the screws I was removing were loose. Lewmar offers a torque spec for the mounting screws of 25 in lbs in the instructions, you may have to balance that against excessive squeeze out. Note the included screws from Lewmar are pozidriv, not Philips, and require a PZ2 bit, otherwise you risk cam out of the screw head.

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Repairing Leaky Portlights

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Leaky portlights and hatches are one of the more frustrating projects to face on an old boat.

The best case scenarios are easiest to deal with, and these are usually the ones in which bedding has dried out and a simple removal, cleanup, and re-bed game plan is all it takes. When an acrylic (Plexiglas) or Lexan (polycarbonate) lens is removed, be very careful with solvents used to clean away old bedding because they can destroy the surface of once clear plastic.

To reattach the mechanically fastened lens, use a thick, adhesive butyl-rubber tape or equivalent bedding material instead of conventional tube-type sealants. (Practical Sailor testers have had good luck with Bomar hatch mounting tape .) Place the -inch-wide bedding on the lens like thick tape, and squeeze in the mechanical joint between the lens and the cabin house. It acts like a compressed grommet as well as an adhesive seal. Fastener holes drilled into the lens should be slightly oversize, never chamfered, and the fasteners coated with a sealant when installed.

In all too many cases, the leak is a symptom rather than a problem. The underlying cause likely is that the holes in the monocoque structure create a loss of stiffness, resulting in excess cabin house flex. Rig loads carried to chainplates, mid-boom sheeting arrangements, and genoa track-induced flex can cause significant deflection. Such deformational loading creates energy hot spots that can change shapes or even fracture laminate. In situations where stiffness increases dramatically-like where mechanical fasteners attach a port lens to a lengthy opening in a cabin coaming-a bending moment can twist the fastener(s), cracking the surrounding acrylic or polycarbonate.

The rigid, much more heavily laminated hull, lacks large apertures, such as holes for hatches, ports, and lockers, but the less structurally substantial deck laminate is Swiss cheesed with such penetrations. Better builders add extra reinforcement commensurate with the size and location of these holes, and it lessens the tendency for a port lens to be deformed by sailing loads.

In some cases, the problem can be solved by reinforcing the inside perimeter of the aperture with a stiff metal surround or additional laminate. Without addressing the structural problems that led to the leak, the drip, drip, drip will no doubt start again.

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Why did you specify that the holes in the plexi not be chamfered. That goes against what I have been told when using sealant in a bolted connection.

I suspect that it has to do with the low tensile strength of acrylic and polycarbonate materials. Less material can lead to cracks. Chamfering the holes to countersink flathead bolts would be very crack prone. The seal that matters is through the trunk sides and the fiberglass there handles the tensile loads.

Regarding leaking portlights: I have a 48 year old Contest 33. Removing the portlights has been something I would like to do but there are a number of technical problem in doing so. I have had good luck over the years sealing the old gaskets around the perimeter of the frames against the glass and doghouse using a sealer recommended by Matt Rutherford when I bumped into him in The Gambia back late in 2009 as I recall. He suggested and gave me some of the product. It is called “Dr. Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure”. I have used it on a number of other applications as well with success. Great stuff! Perhaps you have tried it? I’m not sure what Matt is up to recently but he is quite a character. Sincerely, Russell Landrigan S/Y Luturna II

What should we be doing for windows with a rubber gasket? Our 20+ Capril 25 has a aluminum frame in the cabin top with a cracked and shrunk gasket. Is there a site with different sizes of gasket material for a replacement gasket?

I have had good luck making ports more waterproof using port visors .

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We have a cracked port light on the aft port side of our salon, on our 1980 Lippincott 30, SV Vigilance. Suggestions on the best material for replacing the existing portlight? Suggestions as to the method. I had hope to find this somewhere in PS. thanks

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Replacement Portlights

  • Thread starter Sailorjack
  • Start date Feb 26, 2015
  • Hunter Owner Forums
  • The Cherubini Hunters

Sailorjack

Hi Everyone I am replacing the portlights of my 37c and I have decided to go with Beckson "raindrains" for various reasons, price vs quality being the main one. I have read many of the experiences relayed here on the forum. I have narrowed down the potential suppliers to DiscountMarineSupplies.com and FisheriesSupply.com. Does anyone have any experience with either of these companies? Thanks for your assistance.  

Stu Jackson

Stu Jackson

Hi, good choice. If you have any installation issues, please let me know, we have tons of information on these, since our earlier boats had eight of them!!! Like this: Beckson Portlights 101 ("removal tool" with pictures and guides for sealants) http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3241.0.html When I had to replace something on my boat recently, I used Google to find vendors and then price shopped. Other sources, in addition to both of the ones you mentioned, are Go2Marine and SureMarine. Good luck, they are very good ports, I really like ours. The fact that the original company is still in business and still make the exact same portlight, makes then a superb choice.  

Jim Legere

Re: Beckson Raindrains In case you have not come across my post on changing to the Beckson ports: http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=7206&page=article&mn=37-cutter Like you, I chose them on price point vs quality. They have been OK, no more , no less. Next time I will go with NFM SS or bronze. If I were to go with plastic ports again, I would probably go with the OEM Gray ports since they are a 'drop-in' replacement. They can be purchased at a fair price right here at SBO: http://shop.hunterowners.com/gray.php?50325/Gray Ports and Parts Just my $0.02.  

caguy

If you're not in a hurry I found mine on eBay.I was able to get 8 gray 414's for $120. They were brand new still sealed in plastic.  

Jim One of the reasons for choosing Beckson is for the drain system. I have found that on the few working Gray ports in my boat the water holds up in the port and empties into the boat when opening it. Do you have and such trouble with the Becksons? BTW I would love to use the NFM SS or Bronze ports but given the value of the boat and that plastic ports will last for 20 years or so I really can't justify the expense. Thanks for your comments.  

pvtpotter

Lewmar I have some Lewmar ports installed by the previous owner. They are awesome. They open to the inside but I have never had water intrusion, or if so, just a little. Check 'em out. ports-H27.jpg I have a terrible, sideways walk-through that shows them better. http://youtu.be/cEkFzN-pqFE Just got done installing a Bomar hatch. It's great. Good idea to replace the ports. Good luck.  

Attachments

ports-H27.jpg

Sailorjack said: Jim One of the reasons for choosing Beckson is for the drain system. I have found that on the few working Gray ports in my boat the water holds up in the port and empties into the boat when opening it. Do you have and such trouble with the Becksons? BTW I would love to use the NFM SS or Bronze ports but given the value of the boat and that plastic ports will last for 20 years or so I really can't justify the expense. Thanks for your comments. Click to expand

sandpiper10471

The coachroof sides of the 37C are much more sloped than the more vertical of the 27, hence the puddling of water. Are the NFM ones any better in this regard? UV seems to be the factor which destroys the Gray Enterprises portlights. Anybody have any luck painting them? Could be a simple solution to a common problem.  

rardiH36

sandpiper10471 said: UV seems to be the factor which destroys the Gray Enterprises portlights. Anybody have any luck painting them? Could be a simple solution to a common problem. Click to expand

WildaireDeck.jpg

To Jim: You say the Beckson ports are just OK -"no more, no less". Why would you opt for the NFM ports if there were a next time?  

Johnb

I have a feeling that "Gray" ports took a huge nose dive in quality in the late 90's. I replaced 6 ports in the main cabin in 2001 with new Grays and after 11 years every one of them had cracks in the frames. The original ones in the head and V berth area (now 32 years old) are actually in better shape. I took some of the ones I removed and dropped them onto concrete, wacked them with a hammer etc. and was amazed at how resilient they were - they just bounced when dropped from 12 feet onto concrete and they had been in use for 18 years. I too would go with NFM - I can now afford it.  

Thanks everyone for the comments. Jim I checked with NFM and the drain angle is 26 degrees. So if the Becksons don't drain completely with a drain angle of 45 degrees then the NFM Trimatrix are likely to allow water spill inside when opening the port after a rain. Am I thinking about this correctly? John  

Sailorjack said: Thanks everyone for the comments. Jim I checked with NFM and the drain angle is 26 degrees. So if the Becksons don't drain completely with a drain angle of 45 degrees then the NFM Trimatrix are likely to allow water spill inside when opening the port after a rain. Am I thinking about this correctly? John Click to expand

Jim Thanks. I am aware of the Dutchman from your previous submission. I guess this is going to take more thought before I purchase. John  

tehsailor

I'm quite happy with the beckson's on my Cal 27 T/2 and it's got quite a goofy cabintop, the H30 I've got had it's ports replaced with becksons as well and they seem to be fine. The hatches need new lenses/gaskets though as they were allowing water to drip in.  

I'm installing the NFM SS ones this autumn I think. Pricey though, the 36 has 3 different sized ports! Including 4 of the expensive 818 ones. Was looking at the trimatrix ones but they don't do them in 818.  

I will be installing the NFM Trimatrix on our H30. Live in Washington state where it rains all the time, right and HD the NFM bronze ports on my last boat with very little h2o coming in while opening. Cabin trunk was almost the same angle as H30. Didn't go with SS on the H30 due to cost. I have found that on all of my boats with opening ports to have a dish towel at the ready. I will take pictures and write something up on installing the NFM Trimatrix and do a follow up after time as to function of these ports. OH and for full disclosure I live in the town where NFM is based so I saved shipping costs which made the price a bit better.  

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Atkins & Hoyle Ltd

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Innovating Quality Marine Products

Hatches and Ports, Marine Window Repair, Dinghy Davits, Marine Cranes, Hardtops and Arches. Made in North America. Direct from our factory machine shop to your boat.

In business for over 100 years, we manufacture the world's best Cast Hatches and Ports, Dinghy Davits, Marine Cranes, Arches and Hardtops. We also operate North America's most professional Hatch and Port Repair Facility and we have an extensive Parts Catalogue for many different brands. Our beautiful and robust products have provided decades of service for thousands of boat owners.

Founded in Toronto, Canada in 1921 as a foundry machine shop, our expertise in the marine industry is unmatched by the competition. The spirit of innovation was instilled into our business by our Grandfathers and is nurtured in our children. For five generations, we have excelled at crafting exceptional marine products.  Our systems work safely and reliably, that's our guarantee. Our products are based on scientific investigation, real-world use and decades of experience. The results are Davits and Cranes, Hatches and Ports, Arches and Hardtops that perform and look great. We offer boaters the peace of mind that comes from owning well-engineered and expertly crafted marine equipment.

Atkins & Hoyle is the leading North American manufacturer of the highest quality marine products. Our portlights for sailboats, marine boat hatches, boat hardtops, yacht davits, sailboat davits, dinghy hoists and other dinghy lift systems and marine cranes are unmatched in the industry. Our stainless steel radar arch is modular and fully customizable, including being available in lightweight aluminum and becoming a davit arch allowing you to have a custom boat arch.  We also specialize in marine window repair, including marine hatch and portlight repair; providing complete hatch and port refurbishment, supplying parts such as boat window seal replacement, hatch gaskets, acrylic lens replacement and supplying hard to find parts such as support rods, boat window screens and hatch springs.

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I have an Endeavour 35 sailboat out of production for some time. Its a testament to the quality of the hatches installed in 1983! This year I replaced some of the support hardware. Brian is great and guided me to what I needed to bring the hatches back into shape. Superior quality and customer support. What could be better? Thanks Atkins and Hoyle

I had been searching for a crane for my sport fishing boat for several months, when I came upon Atkins and Hoyle. From the start, Eric and Brian were extremely helpful in selecting the right product for my application. They made suggestions to me, which I did not even think about previously. Needless to say, they made the process of selecting, ordering and final receipt of their products a breeze! Furthermore, the quality of this crane far exceeded my expectations. I also must share that after receipt of the crane, I had installations issues, which they eagerly worked me through and I could not be more pleased. It's amazing when you can buy a product off the internet and the seller doesn't forget about you after the sale is made. You can't go wrong with Atkins and Hoyle. I recommend them highly and without reservation.

Atkins & Hoyle personal were very helpful in determining the model and specifications for 3 sailboat hatches that were at least 30 years old and even had parts/instructions on proper methods of resealing. I was very impressed for such old equipment. Thanks Again.

Outstanding product, used them from Lake Ontario to the Bahamas and back. Well built, great folks to talk to about your needs

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Stainless Steel Arch with Solar Panels and Dinghy Davits. C&C 41

Atkins & Hoyle is a premier marine hatch and port manufacturer. With over 100 years of experience, we have the skills, tools and necessary expertise to bring your hatches and ports back to like-new condition. Let our experts refurbish your hatches and portlights.

If you have specific questions related to our services and product, here are all relevant answer to many common questions:

Why are Atkins & Hoyle designs different?

When we designed our products, we chose the best possible processes and materials to give you the strongest, lightest, and most easily mounted system.A system which would mount in a range different configurations. Our castings are our secret to sucess, and what sets us apart from ALL others. This design allows us to add strength where required and take out weight where it is not needed. As a fourth generation family business, the techniques we use were handed down generation after generation. Newer companies, and in fact all other system in the world use a bent / welded design; All Stainless will suffer a reduction in corrosion resistance because of welding. These davits cannot come close to the features Atkins & Hoyle has come to know as standard - customizable, durable, stronger, lighter, and more corrosion resistant.  Our castings are 215-R1 Anodized, a process which hardens the surface and coats them with an Electrical Insulator; preventing Electrolysis due to disimilar metals

What does “safe working load” mean?

Our davits our rated to a safe working load that is well below their tested maximum capacity. This means that we test our davits beyond what we ultimately rate them at because we know that there is a lot of extra load when your boat is on the water. Make sure that any davit system that you are considering quotes only a safe working load and is not simply the useless “maximum capacity” that many other davit manufacturers use. Other manufacturers’ tubing is not stronger than ours, not only because the unique way that we produce our products, but in the fact that the wall is reduced during their bending process. Simply put, all other davit manufacturers overrate their products

If I have an angled transom or large swim platform, how do I get the extra reach that I need?

Atkins & Hoyle davits are fully adjustable, allowing you get the most reach that is possible with a davit system. This is accomplished with our innovative spline casting that locks our modular units after a one time adjustment, thus allowing you to tailor suit the height and reach for your particular boat. Our 1900 model can also have added length to the tubes if you require even more reach, up to 12 inches. Our systems also have the ability to hold the davit away from the rail or transom to give the maximum reach that you need.

Why does Atkins & Hoyle use an aluminum-magnesium alloy?

The conditions and forces that we expect our products to go trough demand that we use a super strong, super light alloy that will not corrode in salt water. The best alloy for these specifications is Almag 35, an aluminum-magnesium alloy. This non-ferrous, anti-corrosion metal alloy is perfectly suited to the marine industry because it is lighter stronger than ordinary aluminum. Almag 35 is the lightest, strongest and most corrosion resistant alloy for marine use available today. It provides a 40% elongation, meaning that instead of breaking, the davits are flexible, absorbing shock loads, it has a tensile strength 44000 lb. per square inch and is 20 % lighter than aluminum

What is the best lifting ratio for a davit?

We believe in providing the highest lifting ratio for our davits. All of davits have a MINIMUM 6:1 block and pulley system, most come standard with a 7:1 purchase. Our 750 lb. Model 5000 has a 12:1 system plus a 6.8:1 winch. All of these purchase systems are designed to give a maximum 30 lb. pull on the rope. This provides 100% safety advantage while other manufactures provide optional block systems that exceed the tolerance of their davit systems. This ensures that you have to expend the least amount energy as possible to secure your tender.

There is no rail on my transom; can I still mount rotating davits?

Yes, all of our davit systems can be mounted in a variety of ways. The universal base mount can be fitted to any angle so it can lie flat against your deck or transom in place of a rail mount.

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Gebo Marineglazing

Gebo Portlights

CERTIFIED FOR HULL FITTING The Gebo standard portlights are certified for fitting in the hull. This applies to both fixed and opening portlights. As Gebo portlights are manufactured by CNC controlled machines, any accessories that are purchased afterwards always fit smoothly on the portlights. All parts, such as rubbers and knobs are easily available, even after a longer period, through our worldwide dealer network .

WATERTIGHT DESIGN Unlike many designs, Gebo portlights are designed for watertight hull fitting, so there’s no problem when a heeling yacht places the portlight against the pressure of fast running water. Portlights should be fitted to a flat surface with a maximum tolerance of 1 mm. On request the fixed type portlights can be bended.

ANODISED ALUMINIUM

Gebo portlights are made from anodised aluminium and have a standard smoke grey acrylic sheet of 10mm thickness. All parts are constructed from noncorrosive materials.

Download here the brochure.

POWDER-COATING

Powder-coating of the frame to any RAL color you specify is also available. As standard the hatch is being manufactured with grey smoke acrylic.

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Standard Portlights

The Gebo standard portlights are certified for fitting in the hull. This applies to both fixed and opening portlights. As Gebo portlights are manufactured by CNC controlled machines, any accessories that are purchased afterwards always fit smoothly on the portlights.

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Portlights Round and Elliptical

Unlike many designs, Gebo portlights are designed for watertight hull fitting, so there’s no problem when a heeling yacht places the portlight against the pressure of fast-running water. As standard the portlight is being manufactured with grey smoke acrylic. Clear, bronze and green acrylic is available to special order.

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Portlight Econoline

The Gebo Econoline portlights offer the wellknown Gebo quality – for a price that will fit even the smallest budget. The series is available in international standard sizes and offers besides the well-known Gebo quality also a considerable number of additional benefits.

Gebo as brand was created more over 50 years ago and with a single vision: to supply boatbuilders with glazing products that would enhance the appearance, and the value of the craft in which they were fitted.

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Custom Man Ship Stainless Portlights

Custom Man Ship Stainless Portlights

Man Ship Stainless Steel Rectangular 7" x 14" Portlights With Angled Spigot

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Man Ship Stainless Steel Rectangular 4-3/4 x 14-3/4 Portlight With Straight Spigot, Drain Tube

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Man Ship Stainless Rectangular 6" x 25" Portlight

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Man Ship 8x18 Stainless Steel Portlight, Friction Hinges, 2” Angled Spigot

Man Ship 8x18 Stainless Steel Portlight, Friction Hinges, 2” Angled Spigot

Man Ship Stainless Steel Rectangular 7" X 16" Portlight With 3-1/4" Angled Spigot, Stay Arms

Man Ship Stainless Steel Rectangular 7" X 16" Portlight With 3-1/4" Angled Spigot, Stay Arms

Man Ship Stainless Steel Rectangular 5" x 12" Portlights With Straight Spigot

Man Ship Stainless Steel Rectangular 5" x 12" Portlights With Straight Spigot

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Man Ship Stainless Steel Rectangular 7" x 14" Portlights With Straight Spigot

Man Ship Stainless Steel Rectangular 7" x 14" Portlights With Straight Spigot

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Man Ship Stainless Steel Rectangular 7" x 16" Portlights With Angled Spigot

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Man Ship Stainless Steel Rectangular 7" x 16" Portlights With Straight Spigot

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Man Ship Stainless Steel Rectangular 8" x 16" Portlights With Straight Spigot

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Man Ship Rectangular Portlights Gasket (Cut to Size)

Man Ship Rectangular Portlights Gasket (Cut to Size)

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Stainless LSR Round Portlight, 6" with 1-1/8" Straight Spigot

Stainless LSR Round Portlight, 6" with 1-1/8" Straight Spigot

Man Ship Stainless Steel Trim Ring, LSR-209-TRIM

Man Ship Stainless Steel Trim Ring, LSR-209-TRIM

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Starting at $819.99

Discover our selection of Man Ship Stainless Portlights. Whether you're upgrading or simply installing new portlights you won't be disappointed with the quality of Man Ship Stainless Portlights. Shop online today.

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  1. Boat Portholes & Marine Portlights

    Boat Portholes, Portlights & Accessories. 38 results. Fisheries Supply is your premier supplier of boat portlights from top brands like Vetus, Lewmar, Freeman and more. We offer a full range of quality marine portlights in several shapes and replacement parts like screens, knobs, arms and seals. Portlights help keep airflow through the boat ...

  2. Boat Window Replacement, Port Windows & Boat Portlights

    Our huge inventory of new and replacement boat parts includes boat windows, fixed portlights, opening portlights, portlights with screens, and marine portlights in a range of colors, shapes, and sizes. We carry boat portlights from Bomar, Gebo, Hi-Tide Manufacturing, Jim Black, Lewmar, Taylor-Made, Diamond Sea Glaze, and many more top brands.

  3. Home

    But don't just ask us, ask the thousands of sailors these past thirty years who have successfully replaced old Portlights with NFM Portlights on boats from Able to Yorktown. Explore our Portlights, Portlight Accessories, and Marine Hardware online, or download the Product Price List then call to order, (360) 385-3315.

  4. Portlight Replacement

    Discounts on fuel, transient slips, repairs and more at over 1,200 businesses. Deals on cruises, charters, car rentals, hotel stays and more…. All for only $25/year! Over time, plastic portlights lose clarity. Polishing can't correct issues like crazing and discoloration. Sometimes pane replacement is the only solution.

  5. Portlights for Sailboats & Power Yachts

    We offer all the best brands, including Beckson, Lewmar and Vetus. MAURIPRO Sailing, your direct access to Portlights for Sailboats & Power Yachts and all your other sailing and boating needs. Shop Portlights for sailboats & Power Yachts at MAURIPRO Sailing Store. Complete selection, technical information and free shipping on orders over $99.

  6. Replacement Portlights for Sale at Go2marine

    A new installation Portlights are known to last a long time without much maintenance. Bomar Portlights . One of the most popular port light manufacturers, is Bomar. They have produced portlights for hundreds of boat manufacturers over the years. Bomar offers common replacement portlights and hatches in various frame and lens finishes. Boaters ...

  7. DIY: Replacing Tired Old Portlights

    Still, if appearance isn't high on your list, then properly specified and installed surface-mounted portlights will certainly keep the water out. Many boats from the '80s and later were fitted with frameless portlights recessed into the hull, and it's certainly possible to replace these without detracting from your boat's appearance.

  8. Hatches & Portlights

    Lewmar's comprehensive range of hatches and portlights offers a solution, whether on a small day boat or superyacht. Combining years of manufacturing experience with the latest in design trends, the Hatch and Portlight Range bears all the features you have come to expect of a high-quality Lewmar product. Hatch & Portlight Guides.

  9. Know-how: Replacing Portlights

    Installing the new ports was a straightforward task. Each came with an exterior trim ring, a split interior trim ring, a roll of adhesive gasket and a set of fasteners sized to the wall thickness of the cabin side. I dry-fitted each one several times, marking for the right opening and top and bottom. After that, I applied the gasket material to ...

  10. Portlight Replacement

    The opening portlights on Priorities began leaking when the boat was about 18 years old. The rubber seals had cracked over time and were no longer effective, especially due to the sheer of the sides of the cabinhouse. Actually, the four portlights in the main cabin had been replaced by a previous owner, so problems may have began before I even ...

  11. Portlights

    Boat Hatches & Portlights Refine by Category: Boat Hatches & Portlights Portlights selected Currently Refined by Category: Portlights Price. Price. $50 to $100 (1) Refine by Price: $50 to $100 $100 to $500 (9) Refine by Price: $100 to $500 ...

  12. Replacing Your Portlight/Porthole

    Step#1: Make a Template. The first thing you need to do is to make a template of your portlight. This will help you determine what size portlights you need for your boat. In this case, you need to trace the outline. Make sure to trace the porthole from the inside of your boat. For this purpose, you can use any paper that is easy to handle while ...

  13. Repairing Leaky Portlights

    Leaky portlights and hatches are one of the more frustrating projects to face on an old boat. ... Practical Sailor has been independently testing and reporting on sailboats and sailing gear for more than 50 years. Supported entirely by subscribers, Practical Sailor accepts no advertising. Its independent tests are carried out by experienced ...

  14. Replacement Portlights

    63. Hunter 37 C Long Pond, NL. Feb 26, 2015. #1. Hi Everyone. I am replacing the portlights of my 37c and I have decided to go with Beckson "raindrains" for various reasons, price vs quality being the main one. I have read many of the experiences relayed here on the forum. I have narrowed down the potential suppliers to DiscountMarineSupplies ...

  15. Boat Hatches & Portlights

    Hatch Riser Arms. $52.48 - $92.99 $99.99. Select Items on Clearance. Compare. 1 - 24 of 135 Items. Load More. Shop the best selection of Boat Hatches & Portlights from West Marine. Visit for products, prices, deals and more!

  16. Beckson Portlights, Opening Ports & Parts

    Beckson Portlights, Opening Ports & Parts. When you choose Beckson portlights, you get excellent design and construction - including no corrosion, no condensation, no leaks, no waterfalls when you open the window and readily available Beckson portlight parts for the life of your port. All Beckson opening ports come complete with screens and ...

  17. Atkins & Hoyle

    Atkins & Hoyle is the leading North American manufacturer of the highest quality marine products. Our portlights for sailboats, marine boat hatches, boat hardtops, yacht davits, sailboat davits, dinghy hoists and other dinghy lift systems and marine cranes are unmatched in the industry. Our stainless steel radar arch is modular and fully ...

  18. SS Flagship Series

    The Finest Stainless Steel PortlightsThe SS Flagship Series. Bomar's Flagship series of portlights includes our top-of-the-line stainless steel version. Designed to offer sleek attractive styling with the low-maintenance, rugged durability of stainless steel, these portlights include a patented mounting system that makes it both simple to ...

  19. Portlights

    Unlike many designs, Gebo portlights are designed for watertight hull fitting, so there's no problem when a heeling yacht places the portlight against the pressure of fast running water. Portlights should be fitted to a flat surface with a maximum tolerance of 1 mm. On request the fixed type portlights can be bended. Gebo portlights are made ...

  20. Options for Replacing Old Portlights

    1 Many years ago, a previous owner had replaced the fixed ports on this 1973 boat with homemade surface-mounted acrylic sheet. Now they were so clouded you couldn't see out. 1A. Step one was to make templates of the portlights. I traced the outlines of the insides of the cutouts onto paper and sent them off to Vetus.

  21. Man Ship Portlights and Accessories

    Man Ship Rectangular Portlights Gasket (Cut to Size) Starting at $5.91. 1. 2. per page. Discover our selection of Man Ship Stainless Portlights. Whether you're upgrading or simply installing new portlights you won't be disappointed with the quality of Man Ship Stainless Portlights. Shop online today.

  22. Portlights

    Moonlight high quality marine portlights for 30 years. Call Us 401-847-7960 | [email protected]. Toggle navigation. HOME; CONTACT US; ABOUT US; NEWS; INFO; PropFinder; Propellers. Folding. GORI Propellers ... Newport International Boat Show. September 14-17, 2023 Newport Yachting Center Marina 20 Commercial Wharf Newport, Rhode Island 02840 ...

  23. Portlights

    Hatch Series. 100 Cast. 190 Cast. Commercial Grade. Tread Plates. A&P Low Profile. 1400 Sliding Roof. 2000 High Profile. 3600 Flush.