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In 1976, brothers Roger and Dean Harklau began producing and marketing the Yacht Club Trailer. Within a few years Yacht Club products were known nationwide.

yacht club trailer surge brakes

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You deserve a trailer you can rely on and that you know will be with you in the long run. Yacht Club trailers have been designed and manufactured for more than 40 years exceeding 500,000 trailers sold.

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Whether you own a personal watercraft, fishing boat, pontoon boat, 15,000-pound cruiser, or something in between, we have a high quality polyester powder painted, hot-dipped galvanized, or aluminum trailer model to fit your needs.  

yacht club trailer surge brakes

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yacht club trailer surge brakes

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yacht club trailer surge brakes

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yacht club trailer surge brakes

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yacht club trailer surge brakes

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[email protected], our location, 1419 11th street north humboldt, iowa 50548.

yacht club trailer surge brakes

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How To Replace A Boat Trailer Surge Brake Actuator-Coupler

  • By Jim Hendricks
  • Updated: September 23, 2019

New trailer surge brake actuator ready for installation

A hydraulic surge-brake actuator is one of those items you rarely think about until it malfunctions and wreaks havoc with your boat-trailer brakes. Sometimes the hydraulics in the actuator develop a leak, leaving the system with no brake fluid and the trailer with no braking ability. You usually feel more pronounced thunks as the actuator slides back and forth freely during starts and stops, and you often see fluid on the ground below the actuator.

An actuator can also jam due to corrosion or mechanical damage. If it jams while compressing, the brakes can lock up and subsequently suffer severe damage, and grow so hot while towing that they burst into flames. That’s when a malfunctioning actuator really gets your attention.

Surge-brake actuators are integrated with trailer couplers, and the working parts are enclosed in a metal housing. Most use an industry standard bolt pattern to attach to the trailer tongue. So, unless the actuator is welded in place, it’s easier to swap out the entire assembly than trying to replace an individual component such as the master cylinder.

Here’s how to get the job done, using a Tie Down Engineering trailer-disc-brake model 750E (for a 2-inch tow ball) designed to fit a 3-inch-wide trailer tongue. The zinc-plated assembly features a breakaway safety cable, pin to secure the coupler, and 7,500-pound tow rating and 750-pound max tongue weight.

Skill Level: 2 of 5 Finish Time: Approx. 2.5 hours

Tools and Supplies

  • Tie Down model 750E trailer-brake actuator/coupler for disc brakes ($225, trailerparts.com )
  • Three new Grade-5 1/2-inch bolts, minimum 4 inches long, with washers and locknuts
  • New safety chains ($19.95, championtrailers.com )
  • Butt connector with heat-shrink collars
  • Crimping tool
  • Socket and open-end wrench sets
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • DOT 3 heavy-duty brake fluid
  • Plastic bag and zip tie
  • Wire brush to remove rust
  • Rust-inhibiting paint to touch up trailer tongue

Pulling off the old coupler

Remove the Old Assembly Unscrew the hydraulic line from the back of the actuator, being careful not to spill brake fluid, especially on painted surfaces because brake fluid will crinkle the paint. Covering the brake-line fitting with a small plastic bag— bound with a zip tie—will help catch any leakage. On some systems, you might need to remove the actuator first to access the fitting and remove the brake line. Next, cut the blue wire leading to the disc-brake lockout solenoid at the back of the actuator. Unbolt the actuator/coupler and remove it. Be careful because it can be heavy.

Bolting on the new actuator

Bolt on the New Actuator Fit the new actuator/coupler on top of the trailer tongue, making sure the assembly does not sit on or pinch the blue wire for the disc-brake lockout solenoid. Use three fresh Grade-5 1/2-inch bolts, washers and locknuts to secure the assembly in position. The forward bottom bolt is used to secure the safety chains or cables, so you will need a slightly longer bolt and perhaps larger washers here. If using stainless-steel hardware, apply anti-seize to the threads to prevent galling. Tighten all three bolts.

Connecting the lines for the coupler

Connect the Lines Remove the small plate at the back of the assembly and find the actuator’s hydraulic fitting. The new Tie Down 750E model lets you access this fitting while the actuator/coupler is attached to the trailer. Carefully thread the existing brake line into the actuator fitting, and then tighten using two open-end wrenches. Replace the protective plate on the back of the actuator. Next, splice the blue wire from the lockout solenoid to the corresponding blue wire on the trailer-wire pigtail, using an approximate-size butt connector with heat-shrink collars.

Filling the system

Fill and Bleed Remove the cap on top of the actuator and fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 heavy-duty brake fluid. Insert a flat screwdriver in the hole on top at the front of the actuator cover, so the blade of the screwdriver is in front of the e-stop bracket inside the actuator. Move the screwdriver back and forth to pump the master cylinder, then hold the screwdriver forward while a buddy opens the bleeder valve on the backside of each brake caliper to purge air from the lines. Continue this process until the lines are free of air. Replace the cap on top of the actuator.

Read Next: More Install Articles From Our Weekend Workbook Series

Drop N Go Auto Latch features

Drop N Go Auto Latch Tie Down’s actuator model 750E features the Drop N Go coupler that automatically opens, and then closes and latches as you lower the trailer tongue onto the tow ball, thus preventing incomplete or improper latching. The captive safety pin can be inserted only once the coupler is properly latched.

  • More: How-To , Trailering , Weekend Workbook

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How to Release Brakes on a Boat Trailer

Ian Fortey

Boat trailer brakes can sometimes lock up on you and render the trailer immovable. Releasing locked brakes can depend on why exactly they’re locked in the first place but if the reason relates in some way to an issue with your breakaway switch cable, you may be able to get the brakes to release by disconnecting and reconnecting that cable. If it’s too damaged to work properly then you may need to take more drastic measures by cutting the wire in the breakaway switch that connects to the battery and/or the circuit. You need to be careful doing this, however, and not cut the trailer’s brake wire itself.

If you’re curious how your boat trailer surge brakes are supposed to work, we have a guide that explains them for you as well. Most boat trailer brakes are hydraulic surge brakes but some are electric brakes as they can operate more safely in water these days with improvements in designs.

Releasing Trailer Brakes: The Reconnection Method

yacht club trailer surge brakes

If you find your trailer unable to move forward or backward all of a sudden, you should try disconnecting and reconnecting your breakaway switch first and foremost. Check the pin and make sure it’s clean and undamaged. Sometimes they can get broken, bent or warped so they don’t fit properly into the housing. When that happens it can’t do its job any longer.. If it looks good, reconnect and see if that makes a difference. It could have just come loose somehow which caused the brakes to engage.

When you disconnect and reconnect, what you’re doing is breaking the circuit which should cause the brakes to release. This should fix most problems right away but that’s not a guarantee. If it doesn’t work, you have a more serious wiring issue that’s preventing the circuit from breaking so we’ll need to go a little more in-depth.

Sometimes the chain and breakaway switch can accidentally breakaway because most boat owners will, at some point, forget that it’s connected and try to drive the tow vehicle away or it can get snagged on random things. If yours has been too badly damaged to just reconnect it then you may need to buy a new one. They aren’t too expensive but it can be a bit of an inconvenience.

Releasing Trailer Brakes: Cutting the Wire

yacht club trailer surge brakes

This is obviously a more extreme method of fixing the problem because none of us want to cut any wires, obviously. I’d only recommend this if you’re confident you know what you’re doing and also your trailer is somewhere you can store it for a while. If your brakes locked up on the highway, for instance, this might not be the place you want to be cutting wires.

Your emergency breakaway system should have three wires that run from the battery lead to the trailer. There should be a white ground wire, a blue electric brake trailer feed, and a red or black battery lead. Do not cut the red/black wire. But what you could do, if the brakes refuse to release, is cut the grounding white wire or the blue wire. Only cut these wires from the breakaway switch, not the wires in the trailer themselves.

Cutting this wire does what should have happened in the first step when you unplugged the switch in the first case and breaks the circuit. At this point the brakes cannot have any power going to them any longer and should be forced to release as a result.

Alternate Methods of Releasing Trailer Brakes

The first two methods are the almost guaranteed methods for releasing the trailer brakes but there are also some alternate tricks that may or may not work for you. These ones are a mixed bag and depend on a number of variables like the kind of trailer you have, the kind of brakes it uses and the condition of them. Give these a try and maybe you’ll have some success.

Reverse the Tow Vehicle

yacht club trailer surge brakes

Believe it or not, sometimes the method of releasing the brakes on some models of trailers is simply a matter of backing up. Don’t ask me why some trailers are designed this way because I don’t know. But I  have heard some trailer owners point out that they can’t move a trailer forward unless they begin by backing up a foot or two at first and then moving forward. This could be seriously inconvenient depending on how your trailer is positioned at first so I’m not sure what the benefit might be for brakes designed in this fashion, and maybe it’s just the result of a short, but it’s been reported by more than one trailer owner so give it a try. Put the tow vehicle in reverse, ease back just a couple of feet, then put it in gear and move forward

Mechanical Failure: Corroded Disc Brakes

yacht club trailer surge brakes

If your trailer has been sitting for a while, your brakes may have become corroded and the brake pads are stuck to the brake drum. This will bind up your brakes and render them all but useless until the situation is addressed. This problem requires some work to fix as you’ll have to take the tires off and actually get to the brakes themselves. It’s possible you can clean them up and use them still but it’s just as likely that if the corrosion is so bad they’re locked up that you’ll need to remove the corroded old brakes and replace them with new ones if they’re too badly corroded.

In addition, your drums could be badly misaligned, maybe as a result of an accident or a serious pothole which, when a boat is weighing your trailer down, can really wrench your wheels and brakes out of alignment, destroying your hubs and more. If this is the case then you may need to have some parts replaced to get them to work properly again.

Fuse Issues

yacht club trailer surge brakes

Sometimes there can be an issue with your tow vehicle and not the trailer itself that causes the brakes to seize up on you. Put your tow vehicle in reverse and see if the lights on your trailer to indicate you’re backing up come on. If the reverse lights do not light up, then you may have an issue with a fuse in your tow vehicle and the trailer is not disengaging the brakes as a result.

Try swapping out the fuse in your tow vehicle, and you may need to refer to your owner’s manual or a guide on the internet to figure out which fuse to swap and also where it’s located in your vehicle, then see how that works. If the reverse lights come on you may not be able to properly release the brakes.

Wiring Issues

yacht club trailer surge brakes

Check the wiring from the tow vehicle all the way back through the trailer. Frayed and exposed wires may cause grounding issues or electrical shorts. This can happen around the lever or in the trailer tongue where parts can get squished during the process of connecting and disconnecting your tow vehicle. Replace stripped, frayed or badly kinked wires and hopefully that will get your brakes to release once more.

Check Brake Fluid

yacht club trailer surge brakes

In most cases an issue with your brake fluid will have the opposite effect. No brake fluid typically means no pressure and therefore no braking power when your surge brakes activate. But it’s possible that a blockage in the line could maybe cause a pressure spike that can’t be released through normal means. If that happens you can try to inspect the line by disconnecting one end of the line and having an assistant manually pump the master cylinder by using the lever to see if anything happens. If the line is blocked then you won’t be able to get fluid to continue flowing so you’ll likely need to have the lines clear professionally and new fluid added to maintain pressure and keep your brakes working properly.

The Bottom Line

There are a handful of reasons that the surge brakes on a boat trailer can seize up on you and not respond when you press that brake pedal. Replacing the pin in your breakaway switch should fix this problem in many cases or, if it’s an electrical issue, then cutting the wire may also fix the problem for you. This should work in the majority of cases with boat trailers. If it’s a mechanical issue with your brake components rather than an electrical issue you may need to take the step of replacing your brake system entirely, swapping out some parts or cleaning your brake lines. On the simpler end of the scale you may need to just replace a fuse in your tow vehicle or even try reversing the vehicle to see if that makes the brakes disengage. As always, stay safe and have fun.

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Boat Trailer Maintenance.

Boat Trailer Maintenance Checklist

yacht club trailer surge brakes

Table of Contents

Boat trailer maintenance is a matter of convenience and safety. A trailer allows you to transport your boating fun and adventure, but trailer trouble on the road to the launch ramp can derail your valuable day on the water. Fortunately, with some essential maintenance, boat owners can avoid the most common issues related to trailers. Use this checklist to prevent common trailer issues.

Follow this essential boat trailer maintenance checklist to get started :

  • Always check your trailer lights for a bad ground, bulbs, and a clean connection.
  • Inspect your tires—check the age of your tires and their pressure.
  • Closely examine your wheel bearings, ensuring the protector is in place.
  • Ensure your trailer brakes are in good working condition.

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1. Check your trailer lights

Boat Trailer Lights.

Check your trailer lights every time you hook up the trailer, and double-check them at gas stops or whenever convenient. Your vehicle lights are probably obstructed by the boat, so the trailer lights are essential for safety.

If your lights stop working, here are some solutions:

A bad ground is the most common cause of trailer light failure. That’s the white wire on your trailer harness. It may be secured to the trailer frame near the hitch with a small screw or bolt. Remove the screw or bolt and use sandpaper to clean any rust off the contact point so the ground is contacting bare metal.

The wiring for lights may be routed through the trailer frame. The point where wires enter or exit the frame presents the potential for wear on the insulation if the wiring is not protected with plastic conduit or a rubber grommet on the frame. If the wire chafes through the insulation, it may cause a short. This is most likely to be a problem on older trailers. Inspect the wiring and protect it where it touches the frame.

Most new trailers have LED lights that should never age, but the incandescent bulbs in older trailer lights will burn out which means they’ll need to be replaced. Also, keep in mind that the light sockets are prone to corrosion. You should use a dab of dielectric grease when replacing the bulbs to prevent corrosion.

Clean Connection

Keep the trailer light connection on your vehicle covered when not towing to prevent corrosion on the metal pins, especially if you live where roads are salted in winter. Most will have a plastic cap that fits over the connector. You can get a replacement at an auto parts store. Here’s a helpful tip: applying a little dielectric grease goes a long way in preventing corrosion.

2. Inspect your tires and wheels

Boat Trailer Tires.

Problems related to tires and wheel bearings can leave you stranded on the side of the road and can even be a safety hazard.

Check Tire Pressure

A failed tire caused by low air pressure is the number-one cause of trailer trouble. Heat builds up in a tire with low pressure and can cause the tire to delaminate and fail, which can be a dangerous situation at 70 mph.

  • Check trailer tire air pressure and maintain the maximum rating on the tire or as listed on the capacity sticker on the trailer, which may be 60 psi or more.
  • Tires will slowly lose a small amount of air pressure each month, so it’s especially important to check the tires after the trailer has been sitting unused over the off-season.

Don’t Forget the Spare

Not all boat trailers come with a spare tire. If yours did not, get one and a mount for it. It’s good insurance. Remember to maintain the air pressure in the spare, and make sure you travel with tools and a jack you can use to change a flat.

Tires that are more than six years old should be replaced, according to the National Transportation Safety Board.

The last four digits of the DOT code on the tire sidewall indicate the month and year the tire was made; for example “3517” would indicate the tire was made in the 35th week of 2017. The tires under your trailer should all be ST (Special Trailer) type tires, which are designed specifically for trailer use, with stronger chords and stiffer sidewalls than LT (Light Truck) tires.

Wheel Bearings

Failed wheel bearings are another common cause of trailer trouble. A boat trailer should be equipped with wheel bearing protectors (the Bearing Buddy brand is a common term for all bearing protectors) which use a spring-loaded piston to hold grease in the wheel hub under light pressure. This prevents water from entering the hub and corroding the bearing assembly.

The protector will have a grease fitting in its center to add grease and maintain this pressure. Read the directions that come with your trailer for details on adding grease. Even with bearing protectors, it’s a good idea to inspect and repack the wheel bearings with fresh grease every three to five seasons.

3. Check your trailer’s brakes

Boat Trailer Brakes.

All trailers must have brakes—which will require maintenance over time to ensure safe performance. In some states, all but the lightest boat/trailer combinations will be equipped with brakes. Because a boat trailer is immersed in water when the boat is launched, it is equipped with surge brakes rather than the electric brakes found on RVs and other campers. The boat trailer coupler slides on the frame when you apply your vehicle brakes, using the weight and momentum of the trailer to actuate the brakes.

Trailer Coupler

The surge brake actuator on a boat trailer is part of the coupler assembly (the part that fits over your trailer hitch ball). It may require occasional lubrication to work smoothly. See your owner’s manual for details.

Keep Brakes Clean

If you launch your boat in saltwater, it’s important to rinse the trailer brakes and wheels as soon as possible after you retrieve the boat. This will help prevent corrosion of brake components and wheel lug nuts.

Some marinas will have a fresh-water hose available for this purpose, and some trailers may be equipped with a hose connection and system to rinse the brakes.

Brake Pads or Shoes

Trailer brakes may be disc-type (with brake pads) or drum-type (with shoes), both of which wear with use, just like the brake pads on your tow vehicle . Have the pads or shoes inspected every few seasons by a trailer shop or a general auto repair service.

Brake Fluid

Check the brake fluid reservoir in the master cylinder (on the brake tongue) a couple of times a season, following instructions in the trailer owner’s manual. Fluid level will go down as the pads wear. If the level is suddenly very low you could have a leak in the brake system, which should be repaired immediately.

Boatsetter is proud to help boat owners all over the country maintain and share their vessels! Aside from additional resources for boat owners , we give you all sure opportunities for extra income.

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Charles Plueddeman  is a self-employed writer and photographer based in Wisconsin. A staff editor and contributor to  Boating Magazine  since 1986, he is the author of its “Off My Dock” column. In the marine realm he specializes in engine technology and trailerable boats. His editorial work has appeared in many national publications, including  Popular Mechanics, Men’s Journal, Playboy, Popular Science, Cycle World,  and  Harley-Davidson Enthuisast .

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Please Help Annoying Pin Required to Back Up Trailer???

  • Thread starter lemaysanch
  • Start date Aug 31, 2009
  • Aug 31, 2009

OK So I purchased my 23ft Sea Pro a couple of months back with a Magic Trail trailler that looks to be in very good shape. Only problem is that other owner gave me a little screw and told me that every time I want to back up the trailer, I need to place the screw inside a little hole on the front part of the trailer to allow the breaks to release and the trailer to back up. In fact, if I try to backup without the little screw, the breaks would activate and I would not be able to move trailer. Why must I have this screw there? I noticed that when the screw is in place, I can move the trailer forward as well with no problem....must WHY then didn't the other owner leave the screw i that hole stuck there for good....I am afraid if i Find a more durable way to leave the screw I would damage something if I back up... Am I making sense? What is this? It is really annoying to have to get off car and put screw everytime I back up. Thanks  

Petty Officer 1st Class

Re: Please Help Annoying Pin Required to Back Up Trailer??? I am not an expert, but perhaps I can shed some light until someone with better knowledge responds. It sounds like your trailer has surge brakes. What this means is when you start slowing down, the trailer hitch pushes against the tow ball on your vehicle. When the trailer hitch feels the pressure of the pushing, it activates the brakes, thus slowing down the trailer and it no longer pushes your vehicle. When you back-up, your vehicle puts pressure against the trailer hitch, in the same fashion as the trailer hitch puts pressure against your vehicle when trying to stop. Without the screw, the trailer thinks that you are stopping and thus, applies the brakes. The screw de-activates the brakes to allow backing. If you leave the screw in, then your brakes will be inoperable while towing. Make sure that you remove the screw/pin before heading out on the road.  

Master Chief Petty Officer

TBarCYa

Senior Chief Petty Officer

Re: Please Help Annoying Pin Required to Back Up Trailer??? It sounds like your trailer has surge brakes which are activated when the trailer puts pressure on the hitch ball. When you're backing up, the hitch ball puts pressure on the tongue and activates the brakes so the screw is there to prevent the brakes from activating. If you leave it in all of the time, your trailer brakes will not work. I have the same type of brakes on my trailer and I have never used the lockout despite backing the trailer up a slight incline to get it in the driveway. You can try it without the screw and the only thing that may happen is that the brakes will activate and it won't move or you won't put enough pressure to activate the brakes and it will reverse just fine.  

Re: Please Help Annoying Pin Required to Back Up Trailer??? Guys thanks a lot...you understand perfectly what's going on. I wanted to verify other people have had this type of break system too. I though it was a mechanical error on my trailer. It appears as though I will have to bear with this annoyance for-ever. If I don't put the screw in the little hole 90% of the times the trailer will not back up, it would just break and stay. And, as you all said if I leave the screw permantly the breaks wont work.... Sucks for me...it is really hard sometimes match the screw inside the hole, so at times I have to back up and go forward until i see the clearance for the screw....Um...sucks!  

QC

Supreme Mariner

Petty officer 2nd class.

Re: Please Help Annoying Pin Required to Back Up Trailer??? I have the same problem with my surge brakes. Especially when you are alone it can be frustrating trying to inching the tow vehicle forward until the "lockout hole" is uncovered I find it easier to straddle the hitch and put my back against the winch post. It is only a matter of thrusting back using my legs muscles that I can push the trailer back enough so that the hole is uncovered  

windsors03cobra

Lieutenant junior grade.

wwcj101

Seaman Apprentice

Re: Please Help Annoying Pin Required to Back Up Trailer??? one good thing is you probably dont have to put it in backing down the ramp. no presure  

Boatist

Rear Admiral

  • Sep 1, 2009

Re: Please Help Annoying Pin Required to Back Up Trailer??? Just buy and install the reverse lock out solenoid as QC said. As soon as you put the vehicle in reverse the solenoid lock out the brakes. When you put it back in drive the brakes again work. Wire the solenoid to to your back up lights and your never have to get out at all to back up. Works very well.  

dingbat

Re: Please Help Annoying Pin Required to Back Up Trailer??? I would suggest going with a "bleed" valve instead of the "blocking" valve pictured. The blocking valve is a simple open - close valve. It will not allow for the release of residual pressure from the brake assembly. If you're on any incline at all you could still be screwed. http://www.championtrailers.com/Solenoid valve line drawing 4 secure.pdf  

Silvertip

Re: Please Help Annoying Pin Required to Back Up Trailer??? What hasn't been mentioned, is leaving the pin in means you have no brakes going down the road. The secret to handling the pin installation issue is to stop, put the tow vehicle in reverse and then release the foot brake and step on it again quickly. The brief rearward movement of the trailer pulls the coupler outward and you can now insert the pin. This works on flat ground or a rear facing downward slope. If you stop facing downhill, you will need to block the trailer wheels to extend the coupler. The brake lockout solenoid is a solution to the entire issue -- which I personally don't consider a problem as it takes just a few seconds to insert the pin and there is always a spot where you can stop facing uphill.  

geeco1 said: If you leave the screw in, then your brakes will be inoperable while towing. Click to expand...

Re: Please Help Annoying Pin Required to Back Up Trailer??? get on Magic Tilts website, and get their customer service person on the phone. They have parts available thru them. Is your trailer equipped with disk or drum brakes? uaually, drum brakes are free backing. Usually, disk brakes have the above mentioned reverse solenoid installed. I have a magic tilt with disks and it came with the solenoid. I cut off that anoying little 4 pin rubber trailer plug and put on a 7 pin RV plug. The reverse signal was on this plug in the vehicle as part of the tow package. Works very well, as I have to back up a slope on grass to put the boat into the back yard. Have not tore up the grass, yet. PS: They are very good trailers.  

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  • Club Bennington Lounge
  • Pontoon Forum

Trailer recommendation

  • Thread starter Chuck13
  • Start date Apr 14, 2013
  • Apr 14, 2013

Active Member

I bought a 2013 2250 RSR and want to buy a good trailer for it. Can anyone recommend a particular trailer and a dealer near south east Michigan? Based on my limited knowledge, I believe I need a tri pontoon trailer with either tandem or tri axle. Also need brakes either disk or standard. I am sure someone knows much better than I do. Any help is appreciated. Thank You Chuck  

Well-Known Member

Look at Heritage. Take a look at my gallery. Really nice trailers!!  

Check out under forms dock talk some good info from member Toms has some pics of his new tri toon trailer I have bought same trailer for my 2550 gbr tri toon pick up ours on the 29th in Brighton Mi ESP Trailer Supports  

You've got two kinds of boat trailers. Many of the boat trailers are manufactured using thin steel tubing that's enclosed. They look good and pull good. But they have a tendency to rust out because water gets trapped inside the tubing setting up rust. One of the problems is with the quality of the steel being used--not good. Many of the mass merchandised boats have custom trailers with the name of the boat manufacturer on the trailers. And if these are used in salt water, you'll be doing good to get 10 years out of them. The best trailers are made out of channel steel. With those trailers, water evaporates and you don't have the rust problems. They're more difficult to make, may not look quite as good, but they'll last as long as the boat. And galvanized steel or aluminum trailers are the only way to go if you're into salt water. My new Bennington trailer is a tube trailer. The manufacturer is close to my dealer, and he takes the avenue of least resistance. If I was selling boats the quality of Bennington, I'd be looking for C steel trailers to put my boats on. EBayMotors,com and Boattrader.com are great places to look for boat trailers. Remember that they're not all created equal.  

  • Apr 15, 2013

qapd

McClain aluminum trailers.  

  • Apr 16, 2013
  • May 19, 2023
v1rot8 said: I could not be happier with my Phoenix Trailer. www.phoenixtrail.com They are located in Ellsworth, MI which sounds like it may be close to you. I included a couple of pictures with this post. It has disc brakes, LED lighting, deluxe ladder, horizontal load guides and I had the Bennington logo added to it. It tows great at highway speeds and is easy to load and unload the boat. As far as bunk or scissor style trailers it was an easy choice for me since we trailer the boat to and from the lake whenever it is going to be used. Their are advantages to both styles but I went with the bunk after hearing about how "tippy" the scissor trailers can be if you are not careful. Good luck in your search for a trailer! Click to expand...

Jack M

JL711 said: How has your Phoenix Trailer held up for you now that we are 10 yrs down the road? Researching the trailer purchase process currently? Click to expand...
  • May 20, 2023

Vikingstaff

Vikingstaff

BigKahuna

BigKahuna said: Just my 2 cents.....I've only had 2 brand of trailers for our boats over the years. The first 2 were painted Yacht club trailers. Well made double axle and had surge brakes. They both didn't rust because I waxed the crap out of it several times a year! I currently have a galvanized Venture double axle with disc brakes. It's 4 yrs old now and has held up. I only tow a couple times a year when needed. Click to expand...

mtudb24

mtudb24 said: We have 2 yacht club trailers in our fleet since 2011 when I bought my Benny and my cousin bought his Tahoe. Both just like BigKahuna said. tandem axle, surge brakes, and after 12 years, they both still look great. Very well built in my opinion We bought a Wolverine trailer (tandem etc) for our hunting pontoon boat and have no issues with that one either. Its less "beefy" then the Yacht Club trailers, but it seems to get the job done Click to expand...
  • May 21, 2023

BigD

We trailer fulltime and use a galvanized Yacht Club Deluxe trailer. Looks like it did the day we got it, and we love it. But it's only just over a year old. Got a couple thousand miles on it.  

  • May 22, 2023
JL711 said: If I may ask, Are your Yacht Club trailers galvanized or paint? Click to expand...
  • May 23, 2023

Trailers | pmimarine

www.pmimarine.com

  • May 30, 2023

Kim in Central FL

Kim in Central FL

So this may be a very silly "duh" type question but, are the tritoon trailer bunks "standard" for all tritoon set up? or do I need to measure etc? Wasn't sure if Bennington is special? or if I need to pay close attention to log size, spacing etc.  

Yes,you will need a trailer based on length of your toons .  

Thanks Jack! yeah, length makes sense, just wasn't sure about bunk width and placement or separation.  

Most pontoons/tritoons are 81/2 ft wide, with 10 ft being the exception. There are some entry level models that are 8 ft wide  

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IMAGES

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  2. Boat Trailer Surge Brakes Diagram : How To Replace A Boat Trailer Surge

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  6. Brakes & Brake Parts Titan Model 60 Boat Trailer Drum Brake Master

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VIDEO

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COMMENTS

  1. Yacht Club Trailers

    Yacht Club trailers have been designed and manufactured for more than 40 years exceeding 500,000 trailers sold. Options for Everyone: Whether you own a personal watercraft, fishing boat, pontoon boat, 15,000-pound cruiser, or something in between, we have a high quality polyester powder painted, hot-dipped galvanized, or aluminum trailer model ...

  2. How To Replace A Boat Trailer Surge Brake Actuator-Coupler

    Next, cut the blue wire leading to the disc-brake lockout solenoid at the back of the actuator. Unbolt the actuator/coupler and remove it. Be careful because it can be heavy. Use three Grade-5 1/2-inch bolts, washers and locknuts to secure the assembly in position. Tim Barker.

  3. Do it Yourself Trailer Surge Brakes

    Hi, Ed. Yes, I did consider electric brakes and electric over hydraulic (EOH) systems before I decided on a surge brake system. The general consensus among boat trailer owners is that submerging electromagnetic brakes and their wiring in water isn't a good thing, as this West Advisor article states:. RV-grade systems, with painted automotive-grade components, are not intended for submersion ...

  4. Tip for bleeding surge brakes

    When trying to bleed surge brakes on a boat trailer, it is difficult to move the actuator enough to move the fluid through the bleed screws. Here is a tip f...

  5. Boat Trailer Surge Brake Actuators

    Titan Model 10 Solenoid Cover Shield For Surge Brake Actuators. Item Sku: 101026. MPN: 4836100183. Installs on Titan Model 10 Disc Brake Actuator. Protects Reverse Lockout Solenoid from Damage. Zinc Plated Cover is Great for Boat Trailers. Solenoid Cover Shield for Titan Model 10 Surge Brake Actuators. $18.38 $11.38.

  6. Boat Trailer Brakes

    Item Sku: 100313. MPN: 0977700AL. Titan Brand for 10" and 12" Hydraulic Drum Brakes. For Driver Side Drum Cluster. Aluminum Housing Great for Boat Trailers. Brake Wheel Cylinder LH for 10 inch and 12 inch Hydrualic Drum Brake Assemblies. $41.05 $23.09. In Stock.

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    If you have a boat trailer, it may have surge brakes. If they work, which usually the hydraulic fluid is evaporated and they don't, and if you don't have th...

  8. How to Release Brakes on a Boat Trailer

    Phone: (479)339-4795. Email: [email protected]. Boat trailer brakes can sometimes lock up on you and render the trailer immovable. Releasing locked brakes can depend on why exactly they're locked in the first place but if the reason relates in some way to an issue with your breakaway switch cable, you may be able to get….

  9. Trailer backup brakes lockout

    This video shows how to mechanically lockout the trailer brakes when the electrical lockout is unavailable without drilling holes and voiding your warrantee.

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    This quick segment explains how a boat's trailer brakes work and why they are completely separate from the vehicle. A boat trailer uses surge brakes, which a...

  11. surge brake parts

    Thousands of surge brake parts reviews, same day shipping. Best surge brake parts selection available. Easy online ordering or call Hwy A at 1-800-940-8924. ... Boat Trailer Parts Looking for a custom fit? Filter Results. Replacement Shock for Dexter Model 6 and 10 Brake Actuators - T1242600. Retail: $77.99. Our ...

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  13. Boat trailer wiring with surge brakes, whats the blue wire for

    However, some boat trailer brake systems are rigged to defeat the surge brake actuator by use of an electric solenoid valve which is rigged to spoil the brake pressure. This is typically rigged so as to spoil the brake actuator when the tow vehicle goes into reverse, and usually takes its signal from the tow vehicle's back up lamp circuit.

  14. Boat Trailer Maintenance 101: Easy Checklist

    The boat trailer coupler slides on the frame when you apply your vehicle brakes, using the weight and momentum of the trailer to actuate the brakes. Trailer Coupler. The surge brake actuator on a boat trailer is part of the coupler assembly (the part that fits over your trailer hitch ball). It may require occasional lubrication to work smoothly.

  15. Please Help Annoying Pin Required to Back Up Trailer???

    The secret to handling the pin installation issue is to stop, put the tow vehicle in reverse and then release the foot brake and step on it again quickly. The brief rearward movement of the trailer pulls the coupler outward and you can now insert the pin. This works on flat ground or a rear facing downward slope.

  16. 2024 Yacht Club 22' Pontoon Bunk Trailer with Brakes!

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  17. Trailer recommendation

    Both just like BigKahuna said. tandem axle, surge brakes, and after 12 years, they both still look great. Very well built in my opinion ... We have 2 yacht club trailers in our fleet since 2011 when I bought my Benny and my cousin bought his Tahoe. Both just like BigKahuna said. tandem axle, surge brakes, and after 12 years, they both still ...

  18. Trailer for SD Sport 188 OB

    I own a 2010 SD Sport 188 with a Yamaha 115HP OB also. My trailer is an aluminum Yacht Club Tandem axle, surge brakes with electric lockout for when in reverse. Double bunks, one roller on rear of trailer for when boat first enters trailer when loading, last when rolling off.

  19. Weight of 240 sundeck with trailer and gear

    Twin 5.0 with Kohler generator with Triaxle 2013 yacht club trailer with Engines Twin 5.0 Mercruiser. Thanks... I do have brake control but don't have a weight distribution hitch. Being the trailer has surge brakes wouldn't that affect braking of the trailer? Mar 17, 2018 #4 Stee6043 Well-Known Member. Jun 1, 2015 6,694 West Michigan Boat Info ...

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    In this video I show an easy way to cycle the surge brake master cylinder on my boat trailer. I had to cut a brake line and therefore the system was complet...

  21. Night Life

    Taking into account all your wishes and ideas we will make a personal route and reserve a VIP-lounge or VIP-table in the best clubs of Moscow (for example it can be the most prestigious night clubs or gentlemen's clubs or strip clubs). We guarantee the passage of dress and face control. You will visit 3 or 4 or more clubs and familiarize with ...

  22. PONTOON

    Surge drum brakes 1 axle, guides included. PTB2445T 21 to 24 ft, carries 4500 lbs, surge drum brakes, ... For all other sizes and pontoon trailer options, please check out Load Rite Elite and Yacht Club Trailers. There you will find trailers available from 15 to 30 ft. Standard, triples, and tritoon models. ...

  23. An Insider's Guide to Moscow Nightlife

    Aglomerat. Aglomerat is a multi-purpose art space, housed in the former Mars factory. With a spectacularly dystopian interiors, it plays host to all kinds of events - from movie screenings and art exhibitions, to metal band shows and rave nights. 3 Kostomarovsky Pereulok, Bldg. 12, Moscow, Russia, +7 968 450 8760.