cal 39 sailboat data

First impressions Like many Lapworth designs, the Cal 39 does not overwhelm you when you first see it bobbing between pilings. If you step back and look closely you'll note that the boat has a subtle but handsome sheerline and that the coachroof flows naturally with the curve of the deck. Freeboard is moderate, which translates into low when compared with today's boats, and there is a fair bit of overhang forward and a rakish reverse transom. The hull shape looks right, the boat rides smoothly in the water, like it belongs there, and the boat grows on you the longer you stare at it. Below the waterline, the 39 has a moderate forefoot that trails into a large fin keel. Two keels were available-the standard 6 foot, 8 inch deep-draft and a 5 foot, 6 inch shoal-draft model. Displacement is 17,000 pounds resulting in a displacement/length ratio of 257, which means that the boat can be loaded up and still sail well. The spade rudder is placed well aft, a Lapworth hallmark, and results in excellent steering control, especially when running in big seas. Two rigs were offered-the standard keel-stepped spar with an air draft of 55 feet and the optional tall rig that adds a few feet to the mast and about 50 feet of sail area. The sail area/displacement ratio is a respectable 16.2, not a light air demon but a very good all-around performer-just what I want in a cruising boat.

Construction The construction of the Cal 39 was in keeping with other boats built by Bangor Punta and later Lear Siegler, including O'Day, Jeanneau and Ranger sailboats. And while these boats are not well known for their construction they have held up well over the years. The Cal 39 hull is solid glass and laid up fairly robust. The deck is balsa-cored in most places and plywood was used in high-load areas. The hull-to-deck joint is the conventional inward facing flange and is both chemically and mechanically fastened. The interior bulkheads are securely tabbed to the hull and a molded liner is used on the cabin sides and overhead liner. The finish is quite nice, actually better than most would suspect with excellent joinerwork and teak trim. The ballast is lead and the rudder is foam with a thin layer of glass over it.

What to look for There were actually several different models of the Cal 39. The first one was the boat that replaced the legendary Cal 40 in 1971 and was in production just a few years. The 39 covered in this article went into production in 1978 and is sometimes called the MK II. The MK III was introduced sometime around 1981 and included an expanded aft cabin and other subtle changes. Finally, another 39 was introduced in 1994 when Cal made a brief, ill-fated comeback. These later boats, designed by C. Raymond Hunt and Associates, are quite nice but much more expensive than the MK II and IIIs. Also, production was very limited. Early Cal 39s came standard with Perkins 4108 diesels, a reliable engine that is easy to work on and still easy to find parts for. Later boats had a four-cylinder Universal and others had Pathfinder diesels. Almost without fail owners complain about the Pathfinder, which was a marinized Volkswagen Rabbit engine. It is interesting to note that of the 15 39s listed for sale at www.yachtworld.com, six have been repowered with Yanmars. I'd look for one of these first. Draft, both water and air, drive used boat prices. For many cruisers the 6-foot, 8-inch standard keel is, all puns aside, a major drawback, the 5-foot, 6-inch shoal model is more desirable. Also, the hard-to-find tall rig is in demand as you can always shorten sail but it is harder to raise your mast. Some owners have noted deck delamination and leaky hull-to-deck joints but both seem more exception than rule. The rudder can also be a problem and should be carefully examined during the survey. One last item, try to find the history of the boat, quite a few 39s went into charter service.

On deck The Cal 39 has a seagoing cockpit and to some that is not a compliment. There is no denying that with its substantial bridgedeck and short seats separated from the helm station that it is small, especially by today's standards. However, the tradeoff is that classic argument that smaller is safer, it holds less water in dirty weather and a smaller cockpit results in a more spacious interior. It is also efficiently laid out, that is if the traveler has been moved to a position over the companionway. There is good visibility from the slightly raised helm seat and the winches can be reached from the helm. There is a locker to port and one aft, which had been converted to a gas locker on the 1979 model I climbed through in Ft. Lauderdale. The companionway is offset to starboard to make room in the aft cabin, but not to a degree to make it dangerous when heeling. The side decks are wide, although the nonskid is likely well worn. If you are considering painting the deck you will need to apply nonskid to the paint. There are teak grabrails along the coachroof and the stanchions and lifelines seem well supported. A teak toerail looks great when it is varnished or freshly oiled, but it is a pain to maintain, especially because an outer headsail track is mounted on top of it. An inner track on deck allows for close sheeting angles. Most boats have double anchor rollers forward and a shallow external chain locker. The single-spreader spar is beefy and keel-stepped. Be sure to check the wire terminals on the standing rigging for cracks and crevice corrosion.

Down below The Cal 39 interior is surprising. This was one of the first boats to feature an aft cabin in an aft-cockpit model. The port cabin is small but the two private staterooms were a real attraction when the boat was new and still is today. Despite a typical teak finish, the cabin is fairly bright with two or three large overhead hatches and eight portlights, most of them opening. However, many boats have plastic portlights, be wary of broken dogs and cracked frames. The 39 MK III included a sink and large hanging locker in the aft cabin and some models came with an enclosed aft head at, unfortunately, the expense of the nav station. Personally I think a second head on a boat this size is a waste of space. The standard interior plan includes an L-shaped galley opposite the aft cabin, or in the case of the MK II, opposite the large quarterberth. The galley usually includes a three-burner stove and oven, large double sinks facing forward and a good-sized, 8-cubic-foot icebox. The saloon has a settee and table to port and sea berth settee to starboard. The nav station is usually to port as well and features a decent sized chart table. Tanks take up much of the storage under the settees. The forward cabin is the owner's cabin with an ensuite head, hanging locker and large V-berth. The head can also be accessed from the saloon. The original teak-and-holly cabin sole is not well supported and may need work.

Engine As noted earlier, the Cal 39 came with a variety of engines and many have been repowered. The original engine was the Perkins 4108, a 50-horsepower model that delivered about 30 horses at the prop, but that was enough to push the boat through the water at 6 knots. Fuel capacity is 45 gallons. Later engines include a Universal 44 and a 50-horsepower Pathfinder. Although I owned a boat with a Pathfinder and had little trouble, some 39 owners are not pleased with this marinized VW machine. Engine access is poor, from behind the companionway. One owner summed up this limitation succinctly, "That's why God made skinny people."

Underway The Cal 39 is a very sweet sailing boat, at home in blue water or knocking about the bay. Many 39s have been retrofit into serious cruisers and owners rave about the seakindly motion and good turn of speed. The powerful hull shape can carry sail in a blow and can also be loaded up with stores without sacrificing too much performance. Owners report that the 39 needs a bit of a breeze to get moving. The narrow hull shape heels early and then stiffens up and also rolls running before a following sea. However, it also has enough oomph to surf when the conditions are right. The boat is close winded, especially by cruising boat standards, and this is an under-appreciated feature. This past summer in the Mediterranean found me hard on the wind seven days in 10, and I was thankful I had a fast, nimble boat. Most stodgy cruisers we encountered were steaming along under power.

Conclusion The Cal 39 is an ideal boat to consider for long-range cruising, especially if your budget is under $70,000 and you need private accommodations but don't want to sacrifice good sailing.

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Cal 39 - Sailboat Data, Parts & Rigging

Sailboat data, rig dimensions and recommended sail areas for Cal 39 sailboat. Tech info about rigging, halyards, sheets, mainsail covers and more.

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Just bought a Cal 39 MKII...

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Hi all, just bought (well, only the survey left) a Cal 39 MKII. I have tread so much about this boat and it seems everybody is super enthusiastic. Mine has a practically new engine (54 HP) and all rigging (both 2010), fridge, electronics etc. I think I made a good deal at 42.5K, but let's await the verdict after the survey. I have some questions, maybe someone here can help out: 1- Mine is a 1977 model, launched 1978... Now that sounds weird, because the MKII only started in 1978. Maybe I have the first one, which they started building in 1977 and finished in 1978? How to check? 2- How do I check if my Cal 39 is a tall rig or a short rig? 3- I can't find a Cal 39 owner forum. Anyone knows if there is one? 4- What to check for during the survey? I read up a lot and found the following, but it may be incomplete: -Rudder issues -Serious blistering on some Cal 39’s -Whole mechanical steering system (exterior and interior) -Steel beam for the mast step (encased in the boat's structural fiberglass pan) is prone to rusting, being that it’s made of galvanized steel. Some boats have a screw in type inspection port, with others, you’ll need to use a borescope. Should the beam need replacing, you pretty much have to disassemble (destroy) the entire internal fiberglass structure inside of the boat in order to do this. Along with all of the furniture, & bulkheas as well. -The hull to deck joints are crap. And leak a lot. Some have been re-glassed, which fixes the problem -Stringers and floors and exterior trim (cabin soles are weak and flex, and thus the table wobbles, exerting undue leverage on the sole). -Original traveler systems were low quality. -The deck is balsa-cored. Check for rot/ soft deck -Deck delamination and leaky hull-to-deck joints issues -The nonskid is likely well worn -Teak toerail -Be sure to check the wire terminals on the standing rigging for cracks and crevice corrosion -Many boats have plastic portlights, be wary of broken dogs and cracked frames -The original teak-and-holly cabin sole is not well supported and may need work Thanks so much, any reply is appreciated! Bart  

Welcome to the CAL family! Well, almost. As to if you are looking at a Mk1 or a Mk2, they are completely different boats. Sailboatdata.com says the Mk1 was only made for a few year in the early 70s then replaced by the Mk2 in the late 70s. I suspect this is a Mk2. Here's the data on the Mk2. CAL 39 MK II (1-147) sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com And here's the Mk1. CAL 39 sailboat specifications and details on sailboatdata.com Note the different keel, rudder, etc. If the listing doesn't specify if its a standard or tall ring, have the surveyor take some rig measurements with a tape measure to confirm. Good luck!  

I too am thinking of buying a Cal 39. There is definite confusion regarding MKII and MKIII. One clue is the HIN identifier on the hull. The big question from this is the model number (designated as a letter but no reference to correlation of letter to model number) and the actual sequence number - supposedly from the sailboatdata website the MKII was hull numbers 1-147 however this does not make much sense because they said that the final hull number of the MKIII is 151. The hull number year is the year and month the hull was laid in the mold and not when it was finished - so how do you tell which model you have. The sailboatdata website also said that the MKII was made from 1978 to 1982 and the MKIII is 1983 on but again there is discrepancy on this. Any expert out there know the truth of the Cal 39 models????? Thanks Andy  

I don't pretend to be a Cal 39 expert, but I think the dates listed for the Mk2 and Mk3 are correct. The Mk3 being 1983 on. And the total production is about 150 boats, so 1-147 for the Mk2 is probably not correct. The differences between the two are subtle. I believe the Mk2 had an open quarterberth while the Mk3 had an enclosed aft cabin. If correct, that would be an easy way to determine which you are looking at.  

I have the Cal 39 mark III, which was built in 1979. It is the three cabin layout with 2 heads. Very fast and strong. The couple we bought her from "moved up" to a Beneteau 393. They called a few weeks later and wanted to buy the Cal back. Seems they got into a little weather and the Mrs. didn't like the way the bulkheads were flexing on the Beneteau. She didn't feel safe, we declined the offer. Interesting thing on mine is the hull number is shown as #529. I think it's probably #129 based on the dates of others on the web. We had intended the Cal to be a transition boat to something "better" but liked her so much we decided to put some money in her and keep her. Had the hull/decks Awlgripped, new engine, new Anderson 52 self tailers, new Autohelm prop and shaft, new furler, etc. I can strongly recommend the Autohelm prop, it pretty much eliminates any walking when you put the boat in reverse which makes it a dream to back up. On the rudder "issue", I'm not sure if it is one. When I haul out for bottom paint, I have the yard drop the rudder and inspect the shaft. So far, no problems and the shaft looks like it did on day one. I've had the boat for 16 years, no blisters or anything like that. Very much enjoy the Cal 39.  

Thanks so much for your response. I delivered my CAL 39 MK2(?) a couple of weeks ago from Southern RI to Mid-Coast Maine - Had some really tough weather that truly tested the CAL and showed her sea worthiness (up to 30 kts wind and 6 ft seas). Have taken her out several times for sails since and am really beginning to feel how special she is. I have had a Whitby 42, Pearson 365, two Pearson 30's, and an assortment of other smaller sailboats prior to the CAL, and I like her sailing (though some would say anything sails better than a Ketch), but also how she sets a groove in the wind and can handle higher winds and rough seas. My hull # is 144 and she was built in 1981 - but she has a separate aft cabin but only one head. From measurements I now believe she is a standard rig (55'6" mast length and 55' from the waterline). She is also a shoal keel (5'5" below the waterline). Boat was repowered with a 55 Hp Yanmar but has a 2 bladed martex prop that I am not wild about (drops to 4 kts in headwinds above 20). Would love to be able to chat off line with other CAL 39 owners to discuss some of the nuances of this boat (including engine access and upgrades. My e-mail address is: [email protected] Thanks and best regards  

Don't ask Robert Redford for sailing lessons!  

I have a three blade auto stream prop. Once you get the pitch right it delivers plenty of power, eliminates prop walk in reverse and feathers when you are sailing so no drag. Two blade props are generally not that great in reverse and probably don’t deliver full horsepower for your engine. I think of them more for speed and not power.i  

I'd also like to connect with other Cal 39 owners. I own a Cal 39-2 in Australia, having bought it in Panama and sailed it here in 2010. I'm also looking to connect with other 39 owners to discuss boat projects etc. Jamie ( I have to get up to ten posts yet though before I can include my email or PM anyone.. )  

I am thinking of switching from a 2 blade feathering MaxProp classic (17inch diameter 16 degree pitch) to a fixed 3 blade prop for my CAL 39 Mk2 with a 1.25 inch diameter shaft. Would really like to know what other CAL 39 Mk2 owners have for a fixed blade prop. I realize I would give up speed while sailing (maybe .5 knots) but I don't want to immediately drop $3,000 on a folding or feathering prop until I know what my engine (4JH4E) can provide as speed. With the Maxprop I barely make 5.5 knts at 2800 rpm. Anyone have any recommendations for the fixed blade prop. Gladly trade my MaxProp  

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Cal 39 huntoday

The cal 39 huntoday is a 39.0ft masthead sloop designed by c. raymond hunt and associates and built in fiberglass by jensen marine/cal boats between 1988 and 1997..

The Cal 39 huntoday is a moderate weight sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser.

Cal 39 huntoday for sale elsewhere on the web:

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• Sailboat Guide

Cal 39 MK III

Cal 39 MK III is a 39 ′ 0 ″ / 11.9 m monohull sailboat designed by C. William Lapworth and built by Bangor Punta Corp. and Jensen Marine/Cal Boats starting in 1983.

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

• SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
• D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
• LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

• D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
• LOA: Length overall in feet
• Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

An updated version of the CAL 39 MK II. Shoal draft: 5.50’/1.68m Tall Rig: I: 54.00’/16.46m J: 16.67’/5.08m P: 48.00’/14.63m E: 13.75’/4.19m SA: 780.09 ft2/72.47 m2 Sail Area/Disp.: 17.59

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