how to gybe a sailboat

Yachting Monthly

• Digital edition

How to gybe safely and easily

• Chris Beeson
• May 11, 2016

Tom Cunliffe explains the mechanics of gybing, what can go wrong, and shows you how to perform a flawless, fearless gybe every time

As soon as the leech flips over, you’re gybing, whether you like it or not. Be prepared, stay in control and there’s little to go wrong Credit: Colin Work/YM

Tom Cunliffe

If you’re one of the many sailors who also rides a substantial motorcycle, you’ll be fed up with people telling you that your machine is dangerous. I know I am. Why, we bikers wonder, can’t folks realise that there is nothing inherently hazardous about the machine? Peril only arises if it is ridden unwisely. Gybing a yacht is just the same. Gybing is part of sailing a fore-and-aft rigged vessel and, unless we revert to square rig, it always will be. Handled in a seamanlike manner, it is as safe as tacking. Take liberties with it and, like the bike, it can lead to some nasty experiences.

When I tell the ‘bikes are dangerous’ brigade that I ride defensively, they counter by pointing out that while I may take care not to stick it in the ditch, I can’t rely on other drivers to behave themselves. The answer to that is simple. Don’t let them get close enough to hit you. Pretty much the same goes for the idea that gybing is innately dodgy. The old chestnut that anyone can be caught by a sudden wind shift is largely spurious. If we are close to running by the lee in a stiff breeze and an unintended gybe looks like bad news, don’t just hope for the best. You’ve two safe options. Either alter course and gybe under control in good time, or drop the main and sail serenely on under genoa only.

I’ve gybed all sorts of different boats. Racing dinghies are nearly always slam gybed. Screw that up and you’re swimming. The 36ft race boat I drove in the early 1980s had the sort of insane rig that was supported by two sets of running backstays with a masthead backstay that did more to shape the mainsail than hold up the spar. If the poor soul on the main runner blundered when gybing in a serious wind with the spinnaker up, the whole rig went straight over the side, so you hove in the sheet and kept it there until the runner-men had sorted themselves out. And as for the big gaff schooner… don’t ask! Compared with these, gybing our boats today is easy, but it does carry the potential to go badly wrong.

What can go wrong?

A bad gybe puts huge loads on the rig, not least the gooseneck

A bad gybe can involve smashing the end off the traveller track, cracking the gooseneck, ripping a batten pocket and anything else you can imagine. I once snapped an 8-inch diameter wooden boom gybing against a preventer that had been foolishly rigged halfway along its 30ft length.

I didn’t mean to gybe, but it was a black, foggy night and the fishing boat I had allowed to creep up on my weather bow left me little choice but to run by the lee and pray. Prayers are rarely a substitute for positive action. Perhaps unsurprisingly, on this occasion mine went wholly unanswered.

The problems with gybing fall into two categories: boat control and personal injury.

Boat control

If the helmsman does a bad job of the gybe in a decent breeze, it’s very likely to end in tears – and bills

Because they work ‘off-centre’, the sails on a yacht confer a sort of ‘helm bias’ that makes the boat want to swing up towards the wind. We correct this, either actively or automatically, by applying varying degrees of weather helm. The essence of a gybe is that, as the wind crosses the stern of the boat, the canvas blows from one side to the other, carrying the bias with it. If we fail to correct the result of this quickly enough, the boat will try to round up or broach.

Any yacht’s hull is perfectly balanced when she’s sailing bolt upright. When she heels, her underwater shape becomes to some extent unbalanced – some more than others. Like the sails, this also creates weather helm. When heel is suddenly transferred from one side to the other, as it may well be in a gybe, the hull-induced weather helm flips across, adding to the efforts of the sails to swing the boat into the wind.

The sum of these two natural causes is that, left to her own devices, a yacht gybed in a hard breeze can very easily broach – that is, swing broadside on to wind and sea in an uncontrolled manner. At best, this is very unpleasant. At worst, it results in a knockdown. All of this can be neutralised or even discarded if the boat can be kept on her feet and under full helm control. All gybing expertise is centred on achieving this end product.

Personal injury

The mainsheet and traveller, if unsecured, can crash across with tremendous force. Stay well clear

Sailing is alive with stories about crew being injured or worse by the boom or the mainsheet assembly in a gybe. These tales are true. If the mainsheet and its traveller are close enough to the crew to be an issue, they must be controlled for security to be guaranteed.

Booms have also taken their toll when left to their own devices, causing concussion or death from a direct hit, or knocking people clean overboard.

Don’t sit on the coamings. In a broach, your brief flight could end on a winch to leeward

If a boat is allowed to fall off her feet at the moment of gybe in a stiff breeze, it is likely to be followed by a broach or partial broach. The result is that the boat lurches violently. Cases are on record of crew who imagined themselves safe on the windward side of the cockpit being tossed to leeward like rag dolls. If they land on a winch, injury is likely.

Safer gybing

Now we know what can go wrong, we’re in good shape to make sure it doesn’t. For our article, we used a standard sloop-rigged Bavaria 40 with no running backstays. Kieran, Chris and I applied our collective experience.

Typically with seamanship, there may not be a perfect answer for all occasions. The best position is to understand the mechanics of what’s happening, be aware of the available options, then consider the conditions before deciding what’s best for the boat we have and the crew that are on deck. There are two essential methods of gybing the mainsail, and one fall-back method, and we’ll look at all three over the page.

Fully-controlled gybe

The process

1. Steer a touch above a dead run to cut the apparent wind

2. When you feel the mainsheet go lighter, haul the boom amidships

3. When the leech lifts, you’re gybing

4. As soon as you can, ease out the mainsheet on the new gybe

This is the classic, safe method, which I personally favour. The devil is in the detail, however, and significant drawbacks must be understood and countered.

The objective is to keep the boat moving straight and on her feet to avoid broaching. Given a well-balanced hull, there’s a great deal to be said for controlling the boom fully.

If any bar-room expert tries to suggest that this is a formula for a guaranteed broach, advise them gently that the mainsail is in fact stalled throughout this procedure because air is flowing from leech to luff. It is therefore not pulling nearly as hard as one which is full. Once it’s amidships, so long as the helm keeps steering dead downwind, broaching tendency is minimal.

Opposite lock – the big secret

1. Keep an eye on the leech and bring her stern slowly through the wind

2. Apply ‘opposite helm’ to prevent a broach, and keep her dead downwind

All of us who have driven our cars with a little verve – and what sailor hasn’t – understands that when we go into a slide and the back end starts hanging out, we apply opposite lock to the steering, turning the front wheels into the skid. Exactly the same technique is vital if a boat is to gybe smoothly and stay on her feet. Approaching the gybe, she is steered slowly but steadily to leeward to bring the wind across the stern. As soon as the leech of the mainsail starts to flick across, a gybe inevitably follows.

You know that the balance of the boat is about to shift dramatically in the next second or two, so pre-empt it. Turn the helm positively in the opposite direction to ‘meet’ her before she starts swinging into a broach. The object is to keep the boat upright on her feet and sailing dead downwind as the boom comes over. This timely application of ‘opposite lock’ is the big secret of gybing safely.

Secure the mainsheet traveller

Make it part of your gybing routine to secure the traveller

It doesn’t matter what method of gybing you plan, if you have a mainsheet traveller it absolutely must be secured at both ends and any slack in the tackles taken up. Injuries caused by travellers – especially those in the cockpit – are among the commonest in gybing. Make it a drill to check before you gybe. ‘Traveller secure? Right. Stand by to gybe!’

‘Ready about!’ heralds a tack; ‘Stand by to gybe!’ means a gybe. Clarity is all

My first boss in a proper sailing school back in the 1970s pointed out that if we always said ‘Ready about’ when tacking and ‘Stand by to gybe’, there could never be any ambiguity of orders. He was right. No namby-pamby ‘prepare to gybe’ on my yachts, and no ‘ready to gybe’ either. It’s ‘stand by to gybe’ every time, and ‘Gybe-ho’ as the leech of the main inverts and there’s no turning back. Save ‘ready’ for tacking!

What about the genoa?

When the main’s gybed and set up, pass the genoa to the new winch

Compared to the mainsail, the genoa is child’s play. The only thing that can go wrong is that the genoa flies out ahead of the forestay and wraps around it with wretched consequences. The solution? Never, ever, let the genoa sheet fly.

Wait until the mainsail has successfully gybed and is set on the new tack. Then pass the genoa under control from the old winch to the new. It will fall quietly and naturally through the gap. It’s easy, low-stress and removes half the worry from any gybe. Nobody has to multi-task and it never fails.

A fun exercise

1. As the leech flips, apply opposite helm to keep her honest

2. Steer by the lee until the leech flips, then opposite helm again

To master the gybe, run the boat off the wind with plenty of space to leeward. Heave the sheet in tight and gently gybe the boat. Don’t ease the sheet. Now gybe her back again, and so on, running straight and dead downwind all the time. After a dozen or so gybes you’ll have mastered the helming technique and you’ll never dread gybing again.

If the mainsheet is anywhere near the cockpit, you absolutely must gather it up and throw it to leeward

Aboard the 35-ton pilot cutters of the Bristol Channel before World War 1, nobody was interested in heaving in 120ft of mainsheet on a dead run in a breeze. It was a two-man job with only one available.

The preferred method of gybing was to let the boom out to the shrouds, steer carefully round until the mainsail was thoroughly by the lee, and keep on steering thus until the leech finally lifted and carried the sail across with its thirty-foot boom and solid gaff. As the boom came over, the helmsman kept his bottom on the tiller, grabbed the parts of the mainsheet, which were sited on the deck abaft where he stood in the cockpit, and threw them bodily out on the new lee side. This made sure that nobody and nothing was caught in the bights of the mighty mainsheet. As for the boom itself, it was a pussycat, because, by the time the main was sufficiently by the lee for the sail to gybe, the boat’s attitude to the wind on the new gybe wasn’t far from beam-on. The sail therefore feathered before it hit the shrouds. Then the sheet was trimmed and away they went.

I suspect that this worked better on gaff rig than it often does on Bermudian, but it saves a lot of trouble in very light going, where it is often the method of choice in a modern yacht. Even in a gentle breeze, however, the mainsheet, if it’s anywhere near the cockpit, absolutely must be gathered under control because it remains a hazard that can develop some serious momentum.

Duck and cover!

1. First, wind on plenty of vang to tighten the leech

2. Secure the traveller, steer dead downwind, then slowly bring the boat’s stern through the wind

3. When the leech flips, you’re gybing. Apply opposite helm – and mind the mainsheet!

4. Set your course, gybe the genoa, and thank the Lord

The problem with a modern cruiser is that, unlike the ponderous gear of history, our kit is a lot more skittish. Whilst I must have handed across the parts of my old cutter’s mainsheet hundreds of times without incident, I can’t say I fancy it one bit on a 32ft yacht with a mainsheet traveller running across the bridge deck. In 25 knots that boom whips past so rapidly that nobody can guarantee to clear away the sheet as it comes, so it’s best not to try. The human cost of the ropework catching a crew member awkwardly as it flies by can be literally horrific, so I cannot recommend this method with such a mainsheet arrangement.

However, if the sheet is safely sited well forward of the cockpit, a straight ‘slammer’ can succeed after a fashion, so long as the gear is bulletproof. Given a touch of opposite lock, the boat should be easy enough to steer because, so long as the sheet has been fully eased, the main will be right ‘off’ immediately after the gybe. This makes hull imbalance less likely and also reduces any broaching tendency induced by the mainsail. The downside is the danger of damaging the gear, but with the vang on hard to make sure the boom doesn’t rise up and strain the gooseneck, this is not likely.

That said, as in all things at sea, it’s ‘horses for courses’. My own boat has her mainsheet so well out of harm’s way that it would be virtually impossible for it to catch anybody in the cockpit. However, my in-boom reefing means the gooseneck, while a marvel in stainless steel sculpture, is more vulnerable than a straightforward arrangement. I’ve tried slam gybing in a breeze once or twice. The crash made me shudder and I don’t do it any more.

Another major factor is aft-swept spreaders. They prevent the mainsail from being squared away properly or feathering after a gybe. This makes damage from the boom whacking the standing rigging a quantifiable hazard. For extreme examples, slam gybing is likely to end in tears. You can only try it and see. The Bavaria we used was marginal. In 20 knots it wasn’t quite an issue, but I’ve sailed boats where it gave me nightmares. Forewarned is forearmed.

The fall-back method – wearing round

1. In lively conditions, if you’re worried a gybe may cause damage, you can ‘wear round’

2. Put the helm down to bring her head up into the wind, then keep going through the tack

3. Bear away and be quick to ease the mainsail, then sort out the genoa for the new gybe

Square riggers had big issues with tacking. Gybing for them was easy. If the skipper was in any doubt about tacking through the wind, he’d give the order to ‘wear ship’. The helmsman steered to leeward and round she came onto the new tack, quietly bracing her yards. She lost vital ground, but was safe and sure.

For some reason, the term ‘wearing round’ has been transferred to fore and aft rig, where it means the opposite. We don’t like gybing but tacking is easy. If it should turn out that you are stuck with a slam gybe and you don’t fancy it, there is always the option to come up to the wind and tack round instead. It’s messy but it’s safe, and it’s always been known as ‘wearing round’. Strange, but true!

Safety and the crew

Brief the crew beforehand, so they know where to be and what to do

Crew safety is as important as looking after the boat. Some might say it is more so and I wouldn’t argue. I’d point out, however, that if the boat is properly controlled, crew safety largely takes care of itself. Here, based on my own experience and also on court cases in which I have been consulted, are the matters you ought to consider.

Unless you have someone you can trust absolutely to steer dead downwind until the gybe is complete, take the helm yourself! Then you’ll have the best overview and can make absolutely sure nobody is in harm’s way.

Brief the crew, especially inexperienced people. They must know exactly what is going to happen, and when.

Nobody must be in a position from which they could be thrown bodily in the event of a broach, or be caught by the boom, mainsheet, or traveller. These are vital considerations. Court cases often turn on them. Make doubly certain that any cockpit traveller controls are absolutely secure.

Check the traveller is secure, then check again. If it’s loose, there will be trouble

The default is not to slam gybe in a breeze with a cockpit-mounted mainsheet because it can, literally, be lethal. If you must slam, give the sheet a clear passage and, if practicable, have a steady, reliable hand to grab the parts and control them as they whip across.

One final point: if you find yourself inevitably closer to the sheet than you’d like, crouch with head right down and arms at your sides, so that, if the falls should try to grab you, there’s nothing for them to snag.

How boat design affects the safety of a gybe

Most modern yachts operate one of three mainsheet systems: boom end, cockpit traveller, or coachroof. All have virtues and drawbacks.

Boom end traveller

Good for trimming and keeps the forward cockpit clear. However, the traveller and mainsheet are to be watched, and the boom is sited over the cockpit, leaving anyone standing up at risk from the knock-out blow

Cockpit traveller

This is the gybe bogeyman. Anyone caught in the wrong place can be in dire danger of being pinned by the mainsheet, injured by an unsecured traveller running amuck, or garrotted by the sheet parts as they whip across

Coachroof traveller

The safest option for families and beginners. It carries serious drawbacks for mainsail trimming but it does keep danger well out of the way. It’s more than likely that the boom will also be clear of the cockpit with this arrangement, but if it isn’t, you know what to do!

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HOW TO JIBE SAFELY

When your destination is downwind on the opposite tack, then a jibe is called for. A jibe has three steps:

• Starting from a broad reach, initiate the jibe with the command “Prepare to jibe.” Release the preventer and turn slowly downwind.
• When the wind is dead astern, the jib will jibe itself. This is the signal to hold a steady course, pull the mainsail amidships, and then ease it all the way out on the new tack with the hail “Jibe Ho.”
• After the sails are across, continue the turn to your new course.

Tips for Jibing Safely

• The jib is the clue to a successful jibe.
• Once the jib comes across on its own, trim the new jib sheet and hold a steady course while bringing the mainsail across by hand.
• Use a slow turn
• Keep control of the mainsail so the boom will not fly across. A slow turn allows time to trim and control the main.
• Ease the main quickly
• As the main jibes, ease the mainsheet all the way out—just let it run.
• Watch your course
• In stronger breeze, as the main jibes it will load the helm and try to turn the boat quickly up into the wind. Watch your course, and correct the helm to keep the boat from rounding up.
• In light air as the jib jibes, grab all the parts of the mainsheet and fling the main across to the new jibe.
• Don’t be shy about jibing
• In all but the breeziest conditions, a well executed jibe is a safe and effective way to change tacks.

Prevent an Accidental Jibe

If the jib jibes itself unexpectedly, it is a signal that the main may soon follow. To prevent an uncontrolled jibe, head up immediately. Straighten out once the jib returns to its normal position. As a precaution, always keep your head down when you see the jib cross the boat, and use a preventer to secure the boom.

Gennaker Jibes

There are a couple of ways to jibe a Gennaker. One method is to snuff the spinnaker, re-lead the spinnaker sheet to the new leeward side, and redeploy after the boat and mainsail have been jibed. The Snuffer and Gennaker go around the outside of the forestay on a jibe. The disadvantage of this jibing technique is that you must go forward to pass the Snuffer around the headstay. (Only if the Gennaker is flown from a jib halyard beneath the forestay would you take the Gennaker inside the forestay on a jibe.)

The Gennaker can also be jibed while still flying. Square down to a very broad reach, tension the windward Gennaker sheet, and haul hard as you release the working sheet. Pull and pull and pull until the sail collapses, inverts, and starts to trim back on the new jibe; then finish the turn and jibe the main. The trick is to have the turn follow the trim – trim the Gennaker most of the way through the jibe before jibing the boat.

If the turn is too fast (or trim too slow), and the boat is jibed before the sail is trimmed, then the spinnaker can blow through behind the forestay, or it can wrap on itself, or around the forestay.

Spinnaker Jibes

Short handed jibes are a challenge. The easiest technique is to snuff the sail, drop the outboard end of the pole to the deck, and pull the snuffed spinnaker around the bow with the sheets. Then jibe the main, reset the pole, and redeploy the spinnaker. You can also use a “dip pole” technique, but this requires at least one designated foredeck person as well as someone on the helm. For more, read Perfect Spinnaker Jibes

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Gybing: Mastering the Art of Smooth and Controlled Sailboat Maneuvers

by Emma Sullivan | Jul 20, 2023 | Sailboat Gear and Equipment

Short answer: Gybing

Gybing is a sailing maneuver in which a boat turns downwind, shifting the stern of the boat through the wind. This maneuver requires careful coordination to prevent accidental capsizing and can be executed with various techniques such as using sails and steering adjustments.

Understanding the Basics: What is Gybing and How Does it Work?

Gybing, in the world of sailing, is a fundamental maneuver that often confuses beginners and seasoned sailors alike. While it may sound like a basic concept, the intricacies involved make it an art that requires skill and precision. In this blog post, we will dive deep into understanding the basics of gybing, unraveling its mechanics and shedding light on how it actually works.

So, what exactly is gybing? In simple terms, gybing refers to the act of changing direction when sailing downwind. Unlike tacking, which involves turning the bow of the boat through the wind, gybing revolves around turning the stern through the wind instead. This manoeuvre allows you to change your course while keeping your sails flying on opposite sides of the boat during a downwind run.

One might wonder why there is a need for gybing instead of simply making continuous tacks when sailing downwind. The primary reason for this lies in efficiency and speed optimization. By gybing rather than tacking downwind, you can exploit the wind’s angle more effectively and maintain consistent boat speed without losing precious momentum.

Now let’s delve into how exactly gybing works on a technical level. As you approach your desired new downwind heading with sails trimmed appropriately for your present course (usually wing-on-wing), initiating a gybe requires precise sequencing and careful coordination.

To execute a successful gybe, follow these steps:

1. Preparation: Communicate with your crew members or guests about your intentions to ensure everyone is aware and ready for action before initiating any maneuvers.

2. Easing Out: Begin by easing out your mainsail sheet gradually until it luffs or flutters slightly while maintaining control over its movement. Your mainsail should be neither too tight nor completely loose during this stage.

3. Turn: Initiate a gentle turn towards your new heading while simultaneously keeping an eye on your jib/genoa sail’s position relative to the boat’s centerline. Maintaining this visual reference will help you to control the speed and stability of your gybe.

4. Timing is Everything: As you complete the turn, it’s essential to time the movement and coordination of your crew precisely. This involves swinging the boom over from one side to the other as quickly as possible without losing control. Remember, adjusting the angle of the rudder plays a crucial role in maintaining balance throughout this maneuver.

5. Trimming: Once you have crossed over to your new heading, simultaneously release and trim both sails while avoiding any excessive fluttering or sudden tension. This will help maintain proper sail shape and maximize performance as you settle into your new course.

It is important to note that gybing poses some inherent risks if not executed correctly. One potential danger lies in an accidental jibe, where uncontrolled motion leads to a violent swing of the boom across the boat when wind fills it unexpectedly from behind. This can be hazardous for both crew members and equipment onboard.

To mitigate these risks, always anticipate and readjust sail settings according to prevailing conditions—such as wind strength, sea state, and boat size—before embarking on a gybe. Gradual turns with precise coordination are key pillars for successful gybing.

With practice, experience, and a thorough understanding of how gybing works, sailors can harness its power effectively while enjoying exhilarating downwind runs. So next time you find yourself sailing downwind in need of changing direction smoothly and efficiently, remember these basics of gybing – an art form mastered by skilled sailors around the world!

Mastering the Technique: Gybing Step-by-Step Guide for Sailors

Gybing, also known as jibing, is a crucial sailing maneuver that every sailor must master. It allows you to change direction with precision while maintaining control of your sailboat. However, it can be a challenging technique to perfect and requires practice and understanding of the principles behind it.

In this comprehensive guide, we will take you through the step-by-step process of gybing, equipping you with the knowledge and skills necessary to execute flawless gybes like a seasoned sailor.

Step 1: Preparation Before attempting a gybe, ensure that you are properly prepared. This includes checking your equipment, such as ropes, sails, and rigging, to ensure everything is in good working condition. Also, assess the wind direction and strength to determine if it is suitable for performing a gybe safely.

Step 2: Communication Clear communication among crew members is vital during any sailing maneuver. Discuss your intentions with everyone onboard before initiating the gybe. Assign roles and responsibilities so that each member knows their tasks during the maneuver.

Step 3: Approach As you approach your desired turning point or mark on course, maintain an appropriate speed by trimming or easing out your sails accordingly. This will ensure smooth execution of the upcoming gybe.

Step 4: Timing Timing plays a significant role in successful gybing. As you initiate your turn, observe the wind direction carefully. Ideally, you want to start the process when the boat enters what sailors refer to as “the zone,” where wind pressure shifts from one side of the sail to another smoothly.

Step 5: Easing Out Once in “the zone,” begin easing out your mainsail towards its new position by releasing its sheet gradually. Maintain tension on the sheet to keep control but avoid excessive force that could cause damage or destabilize your boat.

Step 6: Shifting Weight To maintain stability during the gybe, shift your weight towards the side opposite to which you are turning. This will counterbalance the forces at play and help prevent your boat from capsizing.

Step 7: Controlling the Jib If sailing with a jib, be mindful of its position during the gybe. As you initiate the turn, ensure that crew members have control of the jib sheet to regulate its movement smoothly. Keep in mind that wind pressure changes can create slack in the jib sheet, affecting sail shape and overall maneuverability.

Step 8: Wing-and-Wing In some situations, sailors may choose to set up their sails in a wing-and-wing configuration for downwind sailing. This involves positioning the mainsail on one side and extending a poled-out jib on the opposite side of your boat. Gybing when sailing wing-and-wing requires additional expertise and caution due to possible entanglements or accidental gybes. Make sure you thoroughly understand this technique before attempting it.

Step 9: Recovery As you complete your gybe and find yourself on a new course, carefully trim in your sails to establish control again. Maintain vigilance for any sudden gusts or unexpected shifts in conditions that may require adjustments.

Mastering gybing takes time and practice, but through intentional learning and experience, it becomes second nature for any sailor. Remember always to prioritize safety and communication onboard while enjoying the thrill of mastering this essential maneuver. So go out there, embrace the winds, and let your newfound skills guide you through smooth gybes on every sailing adventure!

Common Questions Answered: Frequently Asked Questions about Gybing

Gybing, also known as jibing, is an important maneuver in sailing that can offer thrill and excitement to sailors. However, it can also be daunting for beginners and even experienced sailors. To help demystify gybing and address some of the most frequently asked questions about this maneuver, we’ve compiled a detailed professional, witty, and clever explanation.

1. What is gybing? Gybing refers to the maneuver of changing the direction of a sailboat by steering it downwind through the wind without changing tacks or sides. Essentially, it involves turning the stern (rear) of the boat through a downwind arc while ensuring that the mainsail moves from one side of the boat to the other.

2. Why is gybing considered more challenging than tacking? Compared to tacking (changing tack by turning into and through the wind), gybing requires careful coordination of multiple elements simultaneously. Unlike tacking where sails are eased out slowly during the turn, gybing involves a rapid swing or sweep across with potential for uncontrolled sail movement if not executed properly.

3. What are some key tips for executing a successful gybe? – Plan ahead: Always anticipate your next move and communicate with your crewmates before initiating a gybe. – Control sail movement: Preemptively loosen your mainsail sheet tension so that when you release it during the gybe, there’s less chance of an uncontrollable “crash” across. – Timing is everything: Aim to initiate your gybe once you’ve sailed past dead-downwind but still have momentum. – Proper body positioning: Keep your weight forward in lighter winds to help stabilize the boat during turn maneuvers. – Steady helm control: Maintain steady rudder control throughout the gybe while paying attention to wind shifts and adjusting accordingly.

4. How can I prevent an accidental jibe? An accidental jibe occurs when the mainsail suddenly swings over to the other side of the boat, often caused by wind or helm changes. To prevent this, some key measures include: – Wind awareness: Constantly monitor wind direction and make sure to stay within a clear range of downwind sailing. – Avoid sudden steering movements: Maintain steady and controlled steering to minimize any inadvertent sail movement. – Secure sails properly: Always double-check that your boom preventer or preventer lines are appropriately rigged to prevent accidental gybes.

5. What should I do if an accidental gybe occurs? If you find yourself in an unexpected gybe, remain calm and act swiftly: – Ensure crew safety: Confirm no one is at risk of injury due to the sudden sail movement. – Regain control: Quickly regain control of your boat by adjusting the mainsheet tension and pointing back on course if necessary. – Inspect for damage: Assess if any equipment or rigging has been compromised during the uncontrolled gybe.

6. How can I practice gybing safely? Practicing gybing can be done under various conditions, provided you take safety precautions: – Start in lighter winds: Begin practicing with lower wind speeds until you gain confidence and proficiency. – Use a buddy system: Always have someone nearby who can assist in case of emergencies or unexpected difficulties. – Wear appropriate gear: Ensure everyone on board wears life jackets and has a thorough understanding of safety procedures.

In conclusion, while gybing might seem challenging initially, it becomes more manageable with practice and attention to key considerations. By following proper techniques, communicating effectively with your crewmates, and maintaining a thoughtful approach, you’ll soon master this thrilling maneuver. So go ahead and embrace the excitement that comes with successfully executing a gybe while enjoying every moment out on the water!

Essential Tips and Tricks for a Smooth and Controlled Gybe

So, you’re out on the water and ready to master the art of gybing. Well, we’ve got you covered with some essential tips and tricks that will help you execute a smooth and controlled gybe like a pro. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced sailor looking to perfect your technique, these pointers will surely elevate your sailing game.

1. Timing is Everything Timing plays a crucial role in executing a successful gybe. It’s important to wait for the right moment when both your board and sail are appropriately aligned with the wind direction. Remember, patience is key! Rushing into a gybe without proper alignment can lead to instability and loss of control.

2. Prepare Your Rigging Before initiating the gybe, ensure that your sail is properly rigged. Adjust your boom height slightly higher than usual for added stability during the maneuver. This small tweak can make a significant difference in maintaining control during the gybe.

3. Body Positioning To maintain balance and control while performing a gybe, position yourself correctly on the board. Keep your weight centered over the footstraps and maintain a low stance by bending your knees slightly. This will provide greater stability as well as allow for smoother transitions between maneuvers.

4. Sheet Out Gradually As you approach the gybe, gradually sheet out (release) the sail by easing off tension on the lines controlling it (mainly outhaul). The goal here is to depower the sail gradually rather than suddenly yanking at it, ensuring a controlled movement with minimal disruptions.

5. Move Your Feet Once you’ve started sheeting out, it’s time to move your feet accordingly. Begin by releasing pressure from both of your back foot’s toes while staying light on them throughout the gybe to pivot effortlessly around this axis point. Simultaneously, slide or step forward with your front foot towards the mast base for weight distribution optimization.

6. Carve the Turn Now comes the exciting part – carving your turn. To execute a successful gybe, lean back slightly to apply pressure on your heels and initiate the turn by driving your back foot into the new direction. Maintain tension in your lines while gently transferring weight from your back foot onto your new front foot.

7. Look Ahead As with any sailing maneuver, it’s crucial to keep a sharp eye on where you’re going. Look ahead and aim towards the exit point of the gybe while maintaining an awareness of other sailors or potential obstacles in your path. This will aid in smoother transitions and help you react quickly if any adjustments are required.

8. Finishing Strong As you complete the turn, make sure to sheet in (pull) gradually and smoothly as you bring your sail back into position aligned with the wind once again. Keep tension on the lines and feel the power building up as you regain control, ready for whatever lies ahead.

So there you have it – our expert tips and tricks to master a smooth and controlled gybe. Remember, practice makes perfect! Don’t be discouraged if it takes some time to grasp these techniques fully; sailing is all about continuous learning and improvement. With dedication, patience, and lots of fun on the water, soon enough, you’ll be executing flawless gybes that will leave fellow sailors in awe!

Enhancing Performance: Advanced Techniques for Expert Gybing

Gybing, a crucial maneuver in sailing where a boat changes direction by turning its stern through the wind, requires skill and finesse. While basic gybing techniques are essential for any sailor, expert gybing takes performance to a whole new level. In this blog post, we will explore advanced techniques that can enhance your gybing skills and elevate you to the ranks of an expert sailor.

1. Perfect Timing: The key to executing a flawless gybe lies in impeccable timing. Experts know that initiating the turn at precisely the right moment is paramount. This involves reading wind shifts and wave patterns, anticipating gusts or lulls, and exploiting them to your advantage. By understanding the dynamics of your boat’s momentum and utilizing these elements strategically, you can maximize speed and minimize disruptions during the transition.

2. Controlled Weight Shifting: A proficient sailor understands how weight distribution influences the boat’s behavior while gybing. Maintaining balance and control throughout the maneuver is critical for achieving smooth execution. Advanced techniques involve shifting weight smoothly from one side to another with precision timing to optimize sail performance while minimizing turbulence caused by erratic movements.

3. Rigging Efficiency: Fine-tuning your rigging setup is a secret weapon when it comes to expert gybing. Small adjustments in sail tension, twist control, and cunningham settings can significantly impact performance during maneuvers – allowing you to maintain speed and control through every turn without sacrificing stability.

4. Clever Sail Trimming: Optimal sail trimming plays an integral role in mastering expert gybes. Skilled sailors possess an acute sense of how different trims affect boat handling during turning maneuvers. Doubling down on maintaining proper mainsail leech tension combined with subtle adjustments of traveler position or genoa car placement ensures powerful acceleration out of each gybe.

5. Progressive Heeling: Advanced sailors understand that harnessing controlled heel angles can lead to superior gybing execution. Leaning the boat into a turn minimizes wetted surface area, reducing drag and increasing speed. By gradually heeling the vessel before initiating the gybe and skillfully managing the heel angle throughout, experts maintain stability without sacrificing performance.

6. Dialing in Steady Course: Maintaining a steady course during gybing is every expert sailor’s objective. Small adjustments in rudder angle and sail trim can make significant differences in keeping your boat on track. Well-practiced techniques involve anticipating wind shifts and making preemptive adjustments to ensure an uninterrupted flow of speed and efficiency.

7. Mastering Downwind Steering: A critical aspect of expert gybing lies in understanding downwind steering techniques. Skillfully utilizing both helm control and weight shifting, advanced sailors execute precise turns while minimizing rudder movement – allowing for more efficient energy transfer and less drag.

8. Mental Preparation: Lastly, becoming an expert at gybing requires mental preparation and focus. Understanding wind patterns, visualizing each step of the maneuver, and maintaining calm under pressure are all hallmarks of seasoned sailors. Confidence in your skills combined with a sharp mind will enable you to stay one step ahead during every intricate sequence of a perfect gybe.

As with any advanced technique, mastering expert gybing takes time, practice, and dedication to develop these intricate skills fully. Continual refinement of these techniques will elevate your sailing prowess to new heights, enhancing both performance on the water and overall enjoyment of your sailing adventures.

So join us as we delve deeper into these advanced techniques that unlock the secrets behind expert gybing – where precision meets finesse!

Safety Measures to Consider While Gybing: Dos and Don’ts

Gybing, also known as jibing, is an essential maneuver in sailing that involves turning the stern of your boat through the wind. It is equally exciting and potentially risky. As with any high-intensity activity, there are safety measures that every sailor should consider before attempting a gybe. In this blog post, we will discuss some dos and don’ts to ensure you execute a safe and enjoyable gybing experience.

1. Plan Ahead: Before initiating a gybe, it’s crucial to plan ahead and assess the conditions. Gauge the wind strength and direction while considering any potential obstacles or hazards in your path. This planning phase allows you to make informed decisions during the maneuver.

2. Communicate: Effective communication amongst crew members is vital during a gybe. Ensure everyone on board understands their roles and responsibilities – from helmsman to trimmers. Establish clear signals or commands before making the deliberate move, guaranteeing that all personnel are prepared for what lies ahead.

3. Trim Your Sails: Proper sail trim plays a significant role in maintaining balance throughout a gybe. Make sure all sails are trimmed correctly by easing out the boom traveler and mainsheet gradually as you initiate the turn. Adjusting your sails appropriately prevents sudden gusts from unsettling your boat’s stability during the maneuver.

4. Keep Crew Weight Balanced: Maintaining good weight distribution on board is essential for stability during a gybe. As you begin turning, ensure that crew members move smoothly to accommodate weight shifts caused by changing winds or water conditions. This coordinated effort helps avoid sudden lurches in balance that could result in capsizing or accidents.

5. Practice Makes Perfect: Like with any sailing maneuver, perfecting your technique through practice is key to ensuring safety while gybing. Start with gentle turns until both helm and crew master a smooth transition across various wind strengths and angles of attack.

Don’ts:

1. Rush the Process: Gybing requires precision and should never be rushed. Trying to speed through a gybe can lead to mistakes, compromising both safety and performance. Take your time, assess the situation, and execute each step with utmost care.

2. Neglect Wind Gusts: Wind gusts can quickly destabilize your boat during a gybe if underestimated or ignored. Regularly monitor wind conditions as you perform the maneuver, being prepared to react promptly by adjusting sail trim or course if necessary.

3. Forget About Checklists: Carrying out a comprehensive pre-gybe checklist is imperative for safety. Neglecting this step increases the chances of oversight, potentially leading to tangled lines, damaged equipment, or even injury. Develop a pre-gybe ritual that covers all necessary aspects – from crew positioning to checking sail control systems.

4. Overlook Crew’s Personal Safety Gear: While sailing, don’t neglect personal safety gear like life jackets or harnesses for everyone on board during a gybe. Accidents happen unexpectedly, so being prepared with appropriate flotation devices significantly reduces risks associated with falling overboard or being in the wrong place at the wrong time.

5. Panic or Hesitate: Panicking or hesitating mid-gybe can have severe consequences for both your boat and crew members’ safety. Stay calm but assertive throughout the maneuver – taking decisive actions based on situational awareness and clear communication ensures a successful outcome.

In summary, gybing is an exciting sailing technique that requires careful consideration of safety measures to ensure smooth execution without compromising well-being onboard. By following these dos and don’ts diligently, you’ll be well-equipped to handle any gybing challenge that comes your way while keeping everyone safe on deck!

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Mastering the Art of Tacking and Jibing: A Comprehensive Guide

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Welcome to our comprehensive guide, where we delve into the art of two fundamental sailing maneuvers: tacking and jibing. If you’re new to the world of sailing, these terms may seem unfamiliar, but fear not, we’re here to demystify them.

Tacking and jibing are essential maneuvers that every sailor, regardless of their experience level, should understand and master. But what do these terms actually mean?

In sailing, the wind’s direction plays a vital role in determining the course and speed of a sailboat. Since a sailboat cannot move directly into the wind, sailors use a technique called tacking to move ‘upwind’ or ‘into the wind.’ Tacking involves changing the boat’s direction by turning its bow (the front of the boat) through the wind, so that the wind changes from one side of the boat to the other.

Jibing (or gybing, as it’s known in some regions), on the other hand, is a maneuver used when sailing ‘downwind’ or ‘with the wind.’ It’s the opposite of tacking and involves changing the boat’s direction by turning its stern (the back of the boat) through the wind, causing the sail to switch from one side of the boat to the other.

Mastering these techniques is essential because they allow sailors to navigate effectively and safely under various wind conditions. Without these skills, your control over the boat is limited and can even lead to dangerous situations, especially in heavy weather conditions. By learning and practicing these maneuvers, you can enhance your ability to steer the boat accurately, boost your confidence on the water, and truly maximize your enjoyment of sailing.

In the upcoming sections, we’ll provide a detailed exploration of tacking and jibing techniques, offering step-by-step instructions, common mistakes to avoid, and practical tips to help you navigate the waters like a pro. Let’s set sail on this exciting journey!

Understanding the Basics

Before we dive deeper into tacking and jibing, it’s crucial to understand some fundamental sailing concepts – namely sailing upwind, downwind, and the points of sail .

When we refer to sailing ‘upwind’ or ‘windward’, we mean sailing in the direction from which the wind is coming. On the other hand, sailing ‘downwind’ or ‘leeward’ refers to sailing in the direction the wind is blowing towards. However, due to the design of sailboats and the physics of sailing, a sailboat cannot sail directly upwind or downwind efficiently. This is where tacking and jibing come into play.

Now let’s talk about the ‘points of sail.’ The point of sail is the boat’s course in relation to the wind direction. There are five main points of sail:

• In Irons (Into the Wind): This is when the boat is facing directly into the wind and can make little to no forward progress.
• Close-Hauled : The closest course to the wind that a boat can sail. The boat sails as tightly as possible towards the wind at roughly a 45-degree angle.
• Beam Reach : The wind is coming directly across the boat. This is often where the boat can achieve its highest speed.
• Broad Reach: The wind is coming from behind the boat, but not directly – it’s off to one side.
• Running (Downwind) : The boat is sailing in the same direction the wind is blowing.

Tacking and jibing are the techniques sailors use to change their direction or point of sail . When you’re sailing upwind (from close-hauled to a beam reach), you perform a series of ‘tacks’ to zigzag your way towards your destination. This is also known as ‘beating.’ Each turn or change of direction where the bow of the boat passes through the wind is a ‘tack.’

When you’re sailing downwind (from a broad reach to running), you perform a series of ‘jibes’ to move from one direction to another. In a jibe, the stern of the boat passes through the wind, causing the sails to switch sides.

In the next sections, we will delve into the step-by-step processes of tacking and jibing, ensuring you can execute these maneuvers with confidence and precision. By mastering these skills, you’ll be well on your way to navigating the open seas more effectively.

The Art of Tacking

Tacking is a fundamental sailing maneuver that allows a boat to move ‘upwind,’ towards the direction from which the wind is coming. Since a sailboat cannot sail directly into the wind due to the forces on its sails, sailors use a zigzag pattern, making a series of turns to progress upwind. Each of these turns, where the bow of the boat moves through the wind, is known as a ‘tack.’

Step-by-Step Guide to Executing a Tack

• Preparation:

Before initiating a tack, ensure you have enough sea room to perform the maneuver safely. Look around for other vessels, obstacles, or shallow water. The crew should be alerted and prepared to move the sails as needed. Once you’re ready to start, you’re sailing ‘close-hauled,’ or as close to the wind as your boat can efficiently sail.

Start by pushing or turning the tiller (or turning the wheel) towards the wind slowly. This action will cause the bow of your boat to head towards the wind, an area referred to as being ‘in irons.’ The sail will start to flap as it loses the wind.

• Completion:

Once the bow has crossed through the wind, quickly bring the tiller back to the central position to stop the turn. The boat should now be on the opposite tack, and the sail will fill with wind again. Adjust the sail for the new tack, and you’re back to sailing close-hauled, but in the opposite direction.

Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

• Tacking too quickly: If you turn the boat too quickly, the sail may not have enough time to switch sides, and you could end up stuck ‘in irons.’ To avoid this, remember to make your turn gradually and smoothly.
• Not letting the sail loose quickly enough: If you don’t release the sail at the right time, it can prevent the boat from completing the tack. Make sure to coordinate with your crew (if you have one) to release and then trim the sail at the right times.
• Not using enough momentum: Particularly in light wind conditions, it’s important to enter the tack with enough speed. If you’re moving too slowly, you might not have enough momentum to complete the tack.

Practical Tips for Effective Tacking

• Practice your tacks in various wind conditions to understand how the wind speed and direction can affect your maneuvers.
• Clear communication with your crew can make the tacking process much smoother, especially when it comes to moving the sails.
• Always keep a lookout for potential obstacles, other vessels, or changes in the wind or water conditions.
• Remember, smooth and steady wins the race. Don’t rush the tacking process. It’s better to perform the maneuver slowly and correctly than to rush and make mistakes.

Mastering the art of tacking is a gradual process that comes with practice. But with these steps and tips in mind, you’ll be well on your way to proficiently navigating your sailboat upwind.

Mastering Jibing

Jibing, or gybing, is another vital sailing maneuver, essentially the opposite of tacking. While tacking involves changing the boat’s direction by moving the bow through the wind, jibing entails changing the boat’s course by passing its stern through the wind. This maneuver is most commonly used when sailing downwind, allowing the boat to shift from one ‘gybe’ (or side of the boat the wind is on) to the other.

Step-by-Step Guide to Executing a Jibe

Before initiating a jibe, ensure you have a clear path and enough space to perform the maneuver safely. Inform your crew about the upcoming maneuver so they can prepare to adjust the sails. At the start of a jibe, your boat should be on a ‘broad reach,’ with the wind coming from behind the boat and off to one side.

Gently turn the tiller or wheel away from the main sail. This action will cause your boat to bear away from the wind and the stern will start to move through the wind. As the boat turns, the sail will begin to move across the boat.

As the stern passes through the wind, the sail will quickly shift from one side of the boat to the other. It’s essential to control this move to prevent damage or injury. Once the sail has filled on the new side, straighten the tiller or wheel and adjust your course for the new gybe.

• Allowing the boom to swing across uncontrollably : This is a frequent and potentially dangerous mistake. Always control the boom’s movement using the mainsheet during the jibe.
• Jibing unintentionally: This can occur if the boat accidentally turns its stern through the wind. To avoid this, keep a firm grip on the tiller or wheel and maintain awareness of your course relative to the wind.
• Not preparing your crew : Everyone on board needs to know when a jibe is about to happen. The quick movement of the boom can cause injuries if crew members aren’t prepared.

Practical Tips for Safe and Effective Jibing

• Always be mindful of the boom. Ensure all crew members are aware of its movement during a jibe to avoid injuries.
• Practicing jibing in lighter wind conditions can be a good way to get the hang of the maneuver before attempting it in stronger winds.
• Clear and prompt communication with your crew is vital, especially when adjusting the sails.
• It can be useful to plan your course after the jibe beforehand, so you can quickly adjust and keep the boat moving smoothly.

Jibing, like tacking, is an essential skill in the sailor’s toolbox. While it can seem daunting at first, especially given the speed at which the sail moves across the boat, with practice, patience, and adherence to safety measures, you can master this maneuver and sail downwind efficiently.

Tacking vs. Jibing

Tacking and jibing, though seemingly opposite maneuvers, are two sides of the same coin – both are ways to change the direction of a sailboat relative to the wind. The primary difference lies in which part of the boat (bow or stern) passes through the wind and whether the boat is moving upwind (tacking) or downwind (jibing).

Comparing and Contrasting the Techniques

• Direction relative to the wind: Tacking is used when you want to move upwind, in the direction the wind is coming from. On the other hand, jibing is used when sailing downwind, in the direction the wind is blowing towards.
• Part of the boat through the wind: In tacking, the bow of the boat moves through the wind, causing the sails to switch sides. In jibing, the stern moves through the wind, again causing the sails to switch sides.
• Speed of the maneuver: Tacking generally involves a slow and steady change of direction and the sails move across the boat relatively slowly. In contrast, jibing is a faster maneuver where the sail moves across the boat quickly, and if not controlled properly, can be quite dangerous.

When to Use Each Technique

The sailing conditions, including the direction and strength of the wind and your desired course, determine whether tacking or jibing is the appropriate maneuver:

• Tacking: T his is the maneuver to use when you want to sail towards the wind (upwind). Tacking is typically the safer and more controlled of the two maneuvers and can be used in a wide range of wind conditions. However, in very light wind conditions, maintaining enough speed to complete the tack can be challenging.
• Jibing: Use this maneuver when you’re sailing with the wind (downwind). It’s important to note that jibing should be performed with caution, particularly in strong wind conditions, as the boom and sail can swing across the boat with significant force. In heavy winds, it may be safer to perform a series of ‘chicken jibes’ (essentially, tacking instead of jibing to change direction when downwind) to keep the boat under control.

By understanding the differences between tacking and jibing and knowing when to use each technique, you can sail more effectively and safely, no matter the wind conditions. Up next, we’ll discuss why regular practice of these maneuvers is crucial and suggest some drills to help you improve your tacking and jibing skills.

Practice Makes Perfect

While understanding the theory behind tacking and jibing is essential, sailing is a hands-on activity, and there’s no substitute for getting out on the water and practicing these maneuvers yourself. Regular practice allows you to build muscle memory, refine your technique, and learn how to respond to different wind and water conditions.

The Importance of Regular Practice

Practice is the cornerstone of mastering any skill, and sailing is no different. Each sailboat has its quirks and unique handling characteristics, and every change in wind and wave conditions presents a new set of challenges. By practicing regularly, you get to know your boat and how it responds under different conditions. Regular tacking and jibing drills will make these maneuvers become second nature, allowing you to perform them safely and efficiently even under pressure.

Drills to Help Improve Tacking and Jibing Skills

• Figure-Eight Drill: This drill involves sailing in a figure-eight pattern, alternating between tacking and jibing at each turn. This exercise will help you practice transitioning smoothly between different points of sail.
• Windward/Leeward Drill : Set up two markers (buoys, if available) in a downwind/upwind configuration. Practice sailing upwind through a series of tacks and then downwind with a series of jibes.
• Man Overboard Drill : Although this is primarily a safety drill, it also provides good tacking and jibing practice. Simulate a man-overboard situation and practice maneuvering your boat to ‘rescue’ the overboard crew member.

Safety Considerations During Practice

Safety should always be your top priority when practicing these maneuvers. Here are some considerations to keep in mind:

• Monitor Weather Conditions : Check the weather forecast before you go out and keep an eye on the sky. Don’t practice tacking and jibing for the first time in strong wind or rough water conditions.
• Wear Appropriate Safety Gear : Ensure everyone on board is wearing a life jacket. Depending on conditions, you might also need harnesses and tethers, particularly for crew members moving about the boat during tacks and jibes.
• Be Aware of Your Surroundings : Always keep a lookout for other boats, obstacles, or shallow water. Remember that other vessels may not anticipate your maneuvers, so always give way as required.
• Control the Boom : The boom can move swiftly and forcefully during tacks and particularly jibes. Keep clear of its path and control its movement with the mainsheet.

Remember, the key to mastering the art of tacking and jibing is patience and consistent practice. Happy sailing!

Mastering the techniques of tacking and jibing is a crucial part of becoming a proficient sailor. These maneuvers allow you to harness the power of the wind, no matter its direction, and to navigate your sailboat safely and effectively in a variety of conditions. Tacking enables you to zigzag your way upwind, while jibing allows you to change direction efficiently when sailing downwind.

Understanding the theory behind these techniques is only the beginning. Each tack or jibe on the water brings new insights and challenges. From different wind strengths and directions to unique boat characteristics, each situation provides a valuable learning experience.

The importance of regular practice cannot be overstated. Through a combination of drills and real-world experience, you’ll find your skills and confidence growing. It is through these repetitive actions that the maneuvers of tacking and jibing will become second nature, allowing you to focus on other aspects of sailing.

Safety is paramount when performing these maneuvers. Always be aware of your surroundings, control the movement of your sails, and ensure all crew members are prepared and equipped with appropriate safety gear.

In the end, continuous learning and practice are at the heart of sailing. Even the most experienced sailors will tell you that they learn something new every time they go out on the water. So embrace the journey and remember – the art of tacking and jibing is not just about changing your course; it’s about mastering the wind and waves, understanding your boat, and developing as a sailor. 

Additional Resources

To further enhance your knowledge and skills in tacking and jibing, here are some resources that you may find helpful. These include books, videos, courses, and websites dedicated to sailing techniques, as well as sources for diagrams that can help illustrate these maneuvers.

• “The Annapolis Book of Seamanship: Fourth Edition” by John Rousmaniere. This book is a comprehensive guide to sailing that covers a wide range of topics, including detailed sections on tacking and jibing.
• “Sail and Rig Tuning” by Ivar Dedekam. This book presents a clear understanding of how to tune your rig and sails to increase your boat’s performance.
• Tacking and Gybing – RYA. A short and concise video that provides visual demonstrations of both tacking and jibing.
• Sailing – How to Tack and Gybe – BoatUS. These videos offer step-by-step instructions and tips for executing these maneuvers.
• RYA Sailing Courses : The Royal Yachting Association offers a range of sailing courses, from beginner to advanced levels.
• U.S. Sailing Courses : U.S. Sailing provides comprehensive educational programs that teach the science, art, and fun of sailing.
• SailNet Community : A forum where you can ask questions and share experiences with other sailors.
• Sailing World : Provides a wealth of articles and resources on all aspects of sailing, including technique guides and expert advice.

What are tacking and jibing?

Tacking and jibing are sailing maneuvers used to change the boat's direction relative to the wind. Tacking involves turning the bow (front) of the boat through the wind, changing from one tack (or side) to the other. Jibing is similar but involves turning the stern (back) of the boat through the wind.

Why is mastering tacking and jibing essential?

Mastering tacking and jibing is crucial because these maneuvers allow you to sail effectively and safely in any direction, regardless of where the wind is coming from. They are fundamental skills for any sailor and will enhance your overall sailing experience.

What is meant by sailing upwind and downwind?

Sailing upwind, or beating, means you're sailing against the direction the wind is coming from. Sailing downwind, or running, means you're sailing in the same direction as the wind. Tacking is generally used when sailing upwind, while jibing is used when sailing downwind.

What are the steps involved in executing a tack?

The key steps involved in tacking are the preparation (alerting the crew, positioning the boat), the execution (turning the boat into the wind, switching the sails), and completion (settling onto the new tack). Each step requires specific actions from the crew.

What are some common mistakes in tacking and how can they be avoided?

Common mistakes during tacking include not steering a steady course, turning the boat too quickly or too slowly, and not coordinating the sail trim with the turn. These can be avoided by good communication, practicing the maneuver, and understanding how your specific boat responds to helm and sail adjustments.

How is jibing different from tacking?

Generally, you should tack when you're sailing upwind and want to change direction, and jibe when you're sailing downwind and want to change direction. The conditions, such as wind strength and direction, and the boat's course will also influence this decision.

What are some drills to improve my tacking and jibing skills?

Drills such as the figure-eight drill or the windward/leeward drill can be very effective. These involve repeated tacking and jibing maneuvers, helping you refine your technique and build muscle memory.

What safety considerations should I bear in mind while practicing?

Always check the weather conditions before heading out, wear appropriate safety gear, stay aware of your surroundings, and control the boom carefully during these maneuvers, particularly when jibing. Safety should always be your top priority when out on the water.

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Home » Tacking, Turning Around – Free Online Sailing Lesson

Tacking, Turning Around – Free Online Sailing Lesson

This is a definition sailing lesson about turning sail boats around so you can go in the opposite direction – tacking and gybing – and it contains the links to methods, tips and tricks to help prevent you getting tangled up in manoeuvres. This is part of our Free Online Sailing lessons

Prerequisite – Correct Tiller Handling for Sailing Dinghies

The most important thing is have you read the section on Tiller Handling yet ?

This is incredibly important as it allows your eyes to be out looking at the sail and boat and other boats rather than looking at your hands. It might feel unfamilar at the beginning, but it will make your tacks and gybes much more reliable. The basic trick is do not swap your hands on the tiller or sheet until on the new tack. Because you are taking your eyes off everything that actually matters.

We explain how and have a video or two below.

It might feel strange, but if you do it all the time – then any other way will feel strange!

All Free Online Sailing Lessons – Index

• Sailing Upwind with less effort
• Increase confidence in Stronger Winds
• Downwind with less distress
• Gusts, Gybes and tacks easily
• Not hitting other boats and more

Basic Lesson – the difference between Tacking And Gybing.

Many times when we turn the boat it is a small direction change. What about the larger direction changes?

At some point we have to turn the boat around. The sail is on one side of the boat. When we turn 180 degrees it ends up on the other side of the boat and we can return to where we started from.

Here they are.

A Tack is when the front of the boat points towards the wind direction during the turn. Sail flaps when we pass through the “in irons” angles to the new upwind angle.

A Gybe is when the front of the boat points away from the wind direction during the turn. The sail will move from out near 90 degrees to near 90 degrees on the other side. Make sure you have the Safety Knot in the mainsheet :)

Our absolute Priority – Swap steering hand after!

Beginners always have trouble with tacking and gybing because they think that they have to do six things at once.

Interestingly – five of those things are very compatible, but number six messes everything else up!!!

List of things we have to do when tacking or gybing

• Steer through the tack or gybe
• Stop turning at the correct angle
• Keep the boat level
• Don’t hit anything
• Don’t get hit by anything.

These are not too difficult if we are looking up and around as we steer through the tack or gybe.

But there is a hidden demon. Which is incompatible because it requires looking down, but is actually quite easy to deal with.

• Change Hands – if you look at your hands during the tack or gybe you will mess up the more important list above.

This video shows what the right method looks like. You don’t have to learn it yet – just see how smooth and neat it is because the sailors can see where they are going and what the sail is doing and importantly – how much the boat is heeling so they can correct.

Delay changing hands UNTIL AFTER THE TACK OR GYBE … …when on the NEW COURSE … … with the RIGHT SPEED

Bet you your other basic sailing book didn’t tell you that!

Something small and fun to practice next time you go sailing

SAILING PRACTICE – steer a course with your hand behind your back without tacking. Anyone who has done some OK steering can do this – it is just the same.

• Just sail normally.
• Now point your knees forward
• Put the tiller extension behind your back
• Reach behind you with your forward hand to grab the tiller extension
• Focus on your destination and continue steering for 5 minutes.
• Turn boat around and do the same so your other hand can practice.

If you look down to swap hands you will mess up all the high priority things and increase the chances of hitting something, capsizing or hurting yourself. We will delay changing hands until after the tack or gybe.

This is where the Prerequisite of Tiller Handling is essential. It makes it easy to change sides WITHOUT changing hands. And it makes it really fast.

Changing of hands prematurely prevents beginning sailors from learning how to tack and gybe smoothly and accurately. It is why intermediate sailors find it nervous to tack and gybe in stronger winds … … they are looking at their hands rather than at what is important.

So having talked about that here are the links to the specific sections of tacking and gybing.

Our Sections on Tacking Techniques

Coming on Tuesday – go down page to subscribe for notification if you like.

Our Section on Gybing Techniques

Safe Gybes and Fast Gybes

INDEX to All our Free Online Sailing Lessons

Our sailboat and other boat plans.

See link at top of the page.

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Heavy Air Gybes: Conquer Fear with Technique

Are you afraid of heavy air gybes (or jibe) due to either lack of experience or too many painful experiences? We asked Zack Clayton – a top scow sailor and sailcloth industry leader with Dimension-Polyant – to share his thoughts on heavy air gybes. Zack is known for his ability to survive and go fast in heavy air.

Zack’s description is based on the MC Scow, but most of the techniques apply to other non-spinnaker boats. Thanks to John Porter for adding insights.

Heavy Air Gybes in the MC Scow

Although you may only perform 3-6 gybes per race in a MC Scow, the risk/reward ratio is significant and varies depending upon the wind conditions. In light breeze, the loss of boat speed and long re-acceleration time has to factor into the decision of when and how often to gybe the boat. As the wind increases, the loss of speed is reduced, but the risk of going for a swim increases.

The basic mechanics of an MC Scow gybe do not change dramatically over the range of wind conditions but there are a few techniques that can improve all of your gybes as well as reduce the risks of ending the day with an unexpected swim or watching the fleet sail by while you are pushed out to a corner, afraid to perform this sailing maneuver.

Gybing Mechanics

• Look behind the boat to see what breeze (velocity and angle) you are gybing into.
• Try to perform a gybe when boat speed is up, rather than when going slow.
• Slowly bear away to a full downwind position.
• Sheet in one to three arms length of mainsheet.
• As leech of sail starts to break, give a final flick of the mainsheet. If you have sheeted in and were heading dead downwind, this may be enough to get the main to cross. If not, turn down slightly . The key is to avoid oversteering.
• As boom crosses midline, center the tiller to avoid oversteer. If you don’t center the tiller quickly enough, you will end up on a reach and possibly round up and capsize. Ending up on a very slight reach (just above dead downwind) is more stable than dead downwind, but any further is dangerous. For more, see the section on steering for balance below.
• Switch sides of the boat – later in light air, sooner as the breeze increases.
• Ease mainsheet and switch hands.
• Position new board and pull up opposite board.

Watching Laser sailors gybe is very similar to what a MC gybe should look like.

In light and medium breeze you do not have waves, large velocity changes, huge penalty for oversteer, etc.  We MC sailors tend to be lazy and we can gybe the boat by grabbing the sheet line above the traveler and tossing it across – I do it too – but it can build bad habits that get us into trouble when the breeze increases, as the proper techniques in normal conditions will reduce risk in wild conditions.

When things go wrong, and right…

Plan Ahead for Heavy Air Gybes

As the wind velocity increases near the MC Scow racing limit (18-25 mph) the gybe becomes one of the most dangerous maneuvers in the race.  To reduce the risk of capsize, I utilize a few adjustments to reduce the risk.

#1. Plan your downwind leg early

A gybe in the top third of the course for scow sailing almost always has smaller waves and less velocity than the bottom third of the course.

• This will get you onto the best angle and best breeze to start the run.
• Preparation is the key here –  arriving at leeward mark overstood can make for a dangerous turn.
• (Ed. note): If you realize early that you will be on the wrong tack at the mark, use the rest of the leg to sail as low as possible, including by the lee if necessary.
• Depending upon fleet size and gate options the wrong gate may be a better choice than a hairpin gybe.
• A controlled rounding is better than aborting the gybe or capsizing to save a couple of boat lengths.

#2. Gybe before big velocity increase arrives

If you see the fleet behind you on the opposite gybe and a big puff coming, the edge of the puff is almost always the strongest so if you want to gybe, do it early so you are prepared for velocity and angle changes.

#3. Plan your gybe for the top of a wave, rather than the swell (trough)

This allows for a bit more time and less risk. It also keeps the bow from steering into the face of the wave.

#4. Prepare the new board before the gybe, but less is more

• Get traveler on centerline – it may have been down for the upwind, but center it before gybing.
• Too much board and oversteer and you can trip the boat on the board.

#5. Slow – Quick – Slow is the operation

• Slow turn down on the wave.
• Quick boom across and sit onto new high side with immediate return to center of tiller.
• Slow ease of mainsheet, hand switch and board adjustment.

Steering for Balance

Maintaining balance is tricky in heavy air downwind. In our post on Capsize Causes and Solutions, Part 2, – Off-wind Balance , we discussed steering for balance – steering so that the board in the water helps keep you upright. In short, you steer the boat under the rig, to prevent “tripping” over the board:

• If the rig heels to windward, head up.
• If the rig heels to leeward, head down.

Using this principle, many sailors do an S-turn gybe in big breeze. This is OK, if you don’t oversteer. As soon as the boom crosses the boat, instead of simply centering the tiller, steer slightly toward the sail. This helps prevent rounding up, especially if you steered down excessively before the gybe and the sail is trimmed in too far on the new tack.

Practice and Enjoy the Experiences

Like most maneuvers in any sailboat, planning, preparation and practice are the keys to smooth execution of all aspects of a sailboat race.  Steering the MC downwind in waves takes practice, experience and concentration.  The more comfortable you become with downwind steering in the waves, the easier gybes will become.  (Ed. note – practice with a masthead flotation panel!)

That being said, even the best sailors in our fleet have stories of deathrolls, chicken gybes and wipeouts. Some of my favorites come from the top of the fleet where everyone gets to enjoy the show – always remember to have the safety pin in the rudder just in case it all goes wrong!

Sailing Downwind in Waves – MC Scow Capsize Causes and Solutions – Part 2: Off-wind Balance Laser Sailing Top Tips – Gybing – with Double Olympic Gold Medallist Shirley Robertson Gybing – Thoughts from Steve Cockerill, Frank Bethwaite… and me – Improper Course Blog

Using a Line Sight to Give you Confidence on the Starting Line

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Gybe a sailboat.

How to Gybe a Sailboat

Gybing a sailboat means turning the stern (back) of the boat up through the wind (remember tacking is turning the bow of the boat up through the wind). You mus learn how to gybe if you want to sail downwind efficiently.

Looking at the diagram below, our sailboat is initially on a starboard tack (wind hitting the starboard side of the boat first).

When the helmsman (person steering the boat) wants to gybe, he will call out to his crew “Ready to Gybe” . This signals the crew to ready the sheets (lines that control the mainsail and the jib).

When the crew has readied (prepared) the sheets the crew will yell, “Ready” .

The helmsman will then say, “Gybe Ho” or “Gybing” to notify the crew that he has started to make the turn down through the wind.

It is important that the helmsman make a slow turn down through the wind so that the crew has ample time to control the sails, specifically the mainsail and the swing of the boom.

As the bow of the sailboat heads more downwind, the headsail (jib, genoa) will just start to relax. This is an excellent indicator that the boat is near the midway point of the gybe. It is important therefore, that the mainsheet be trimmed to bring the mainsail over the centerline (middle) of the boat. In other words, you must control the boom so that it does not swing violently across the deck.

The helmsman will say “centering the boom” and the mainsheet is trimmed.

When the boom has been centered the helmsman will continue making a gentle turn down through the wind. It is important to have the mainsheet at the ready so that the mainsail can be allowed to swing out from the boat gently as the sail catches wind on the new tack. Having a cleated mainsheet as the gybe is completed is not a good practice as the mainsail will fill suddenly causing the boat to heel. It is a quick matter to ease the mainsheet to level the boat with the mainsheet is not cleated. This is especially true on small sail boats where a ‘sloppy’ gybe can easily lead to capsizing.

Other crew members will be working the headsail (jib/genoa). As the boat turns more downwind, the headsail will begin to relax along the front edge of the sail. This indicates that the boat is near the mid-point of the turn where the mainsail will what to pass over the center line of the boat.

It is a common mistake to cast off the windward jib sheet too early. This will cause the jib to blow forward and wrap around the forestay. Wait until the jib is starting to back – then release the windward jib sheet. At this point the jib will easily blow across the foredeck onto the new tack.

If you are sailing solo or if you have only one crew member aboard, then for the inexperienced sailor it will be difficult to work both the mainsail and the foresail at the same time during a gybe. It is important therefore to focus primarily on the mainsail. A luffing jib poses no threat but a mainsail and boom whipping across the deck taking out shrouds and possibly snapping the mast is potentially life threatening.

Once you have controlled the swing of the boom and secured the mainsail to the new tack then switch your attention to the headsail.

It is okay to let the headsail back on itself. When you are ready, release the windward sheet and let the headsail blow across the foredeck controlling the sail with the leeward sheet.

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How To Tack and Jibe A Sailboat – A Beginners Guide

Harnessing the power of the wind is a wonderful feeling, but it does mean one thing: You’ll have to obey the rules of the wind. When your destination is near where the wind is coming from, you can’t just sail directly there. Learning how to tack and jibe is one of the first steps you’ll need to take if you want to start sailing .

While tacking and jibing themselves are simple concepts, there are some important things you need to think about. A good tack means knowing why, when and how you’ll be tacking. Read our simple steps and learn how to tack and jibe.

WHAT IS TACKING AND JIBING?

Tacking means turning the boat through the eye of the wind (the direction the wind is coming from) and catching it on the other side. Since the sails catch the wind from the head, tacking offers a lot of control and can be performed with ease.

Jibing (or gybing) means you are turning the boat downwind from one side of dead downwind (the direction the wind is going) to the other.

The wind is coming from behind the sails and boom, so it can catch the mainsail and hurl it from one side of the boat to the other. This means it must be performed carefully and is fundamentally less controlled than tacking.

Unlike going into the wind, you can actually sail dead downwind but only with a specific sail plan. Often, your sails will require you to jibe downwind. Knowing your points of sail and what they mean is a great way to start learning how to sail.

WHY DO YOU NEED TO TACK?

Since you can’t sail directly into the wind, you must tack up into it if that’s your destination.

Sailing requires catching the wind in the sails to power them up and move forward. That means that the sails must be at an angle to the wind. The angle depends on the direction you want to travel in, relative to the wind.

WHY DO YOU NEED TO JIBE?

You can only sail directly downwind with a spinnaker or twin headsails. Other sails like cruising chutes allow you to sail almost dead downwind. However, many sailors don’t want to buy or change extra sails. So, they stick with a jib/genoa and a mainsail for all wind directions.

Jibing is usually performed when you want to sail dead downwind or near enough. You can jibe downwind so that you are zigzagging down along the wind’s path just like when you tack you’ll be zigzagging up towards the wind.

WHEN TO TACK

Knowing exactly when to tack will depend on where you’re going and the type of sailing you’re doing. In a race, tacking too early or too late could lose you the medals!

Generally speaking, you want to stay as close to the direct path to your destination as possible. This means that you’d tack fairly regularly.

However, you also need to remember that tacking makes you lose speed for a minute or two. So, you don’t want to tack all the time. In a narrow channel when you must go upwind, you’ll be short-tacking. This is where you tack very regularly. Possibly even every couple of minutes!

WHEN TO JIBE

As jibing is less controlled, some sailors avoid it as much as possible. If you’re not in a rush, you can technically tack instead and turn the boat in an almost full circle. If you’re in very strong winds, it can be preferable to tack. However, a controlled jibe is always possible.

Similar with tacking, you’ll need to jibe when you’ve gone as far as you want off your direct line and plan to take another zigzag back over it.

HOW TO TACK

Tacking is simple although the technicalities will vary from boat to boat. For a cruising yacht, the helmsman will pull in the mainsheet in as tight as it can be without causing the boat speed to drop off.

The helmsman will then shout, “ready about!” or a previously agreed upon phrase. This alerts the crew that the boat is going to tack.

Note that many modern yachts have a self-tacking foresail. This means that nothing needs to be done with it as it will simply tack itself when the boat tacks.

The crew member controlling the foresail will wait until the helmsman has turned the boat into the wind and out the other side before easing the foresail that will already be trying to tack itself. The same crew member or another one will pull in on the foresail’s opposite line as the first line is completely released.

Once the boat is pointing in its new direction, the helmsman will ease out the mainsheet and the crew will winch in the foresail. The faster you tack, the less speed you will lose!

HOW TO JIBE

Jibing is less forgiving than tacking. While tacking does not require the mainsheet to be in tight, jibing does. The first step is for the helmsman to pull in the mainsheet so it is as tight as possible. This prevents the wind from whipping it from one side to the other.

The second step is for the crew on the foresail to sheet in. This stops the wind from pushing the foresail around the front of the forestay.

When these steps are complete, the helmsman can steer the boat to its new position. The boom will be pushed over by the wind as far as the mainsheet allows and can be then let out as far as needed.

This needs to happen fairly speedily to prevent the wind catching it and slamming it the other way especially in swells. The foresail can also be let out to its appropriate level.

VIDEO: TACKING AND GYBING

Crash jibing.

Crash jibing is the reason why some sailors dislike jibing. It occurs when the wind, coming from behind, catches the boom on the wrong side and slams it from one side of the boat to the other.

Not only can this send the boat lurching over and breaking the boom, it can also catch crew members unaware, knocking or even killing them.

Crash jibing usually doesn’t occur while jibing. Rather, it occurs when the boat jibes itself. This can happen when sailing very close to the jibing point if the wind changes while using auto-pilot or when waves unbalance the sails and boom.

Crash jibing can be avoided by using a rope to tie the boom to a cleat or using several other safety methods.

KEEPING YOUR SPEED UP

While jibing can (and should) be done slowly and with you in control, tacking too slowly won’t work. Since sailing directly into the wind kills your speed, the helmsman should complete the turn through the wind fairly quickly and let out the main straight away.

It’s also crucial to have enough boat speed going into the tack. Otherwise, you may not make it through at all!

If you require extra boat speed, the helmsman can change course away from the wind slightly before the tack, increasing the power of the sails. When the speed is enough, they can then tack successfully. A tack with minimum lost speed is a racing tack and quite a skill to hone.

EMERGENCY TACKING

Occasionally, you may need to suddenly alter course in a way that results in a tack. This might happen if you see something in the water or discover yourself on an immediate collision course. The main consideration in an emergency tack is that nobody is in the way of the boom.

While far more controlled than a jibe, if you must tack before you can pull the mainsheet in, then shouting a boom warning to crew is the first step. The sails come second to the safety of the boat and crew.

SAFETY TIPS

The most dangerous things in either sailing maneuver are the boom, the changing angle of the boat and lazy sheets whipping as the sails lose power and flap. Many have gone overboard due to a flicking line!

For a successful maneuver, the crew must be informed of what if going to happen. This will likely take the risk out of these dangers and make for a fast tack or a safe jibe.

Chinese Gybes – and how to avoid them

by Niclas | Jun 16, 2016 | boat handling | 4 comments

A “Chinese Gybe” (jibe) also known as a “death roll” is feared by many and we need to know how best to avoid them.

The scenario:

You’re sailing dead downwind in windy conditions, and suddenly the boat starts rolling back and forth with increasing amplitude to the point where the boat actually broaches to windward. As the boat is broaching to windward it is also turning sharply to leeward causing it to gybe uncontrolled – “crash gybe”.

See this excellent video clip which captures the action well:

This is quite common on dinghies and also on larger keel boats, especially when using spinnaker. Personally I’ve experienced it numerous times sailing dinghies but only a few times so far in a big boat (40 feet).

Can it also happen with Asymmetrical Spinnakers? Yep, as this lovely clip illustrates and also shows some great crew work recovering from the incident.

What’s the cause?

In order for the death roll to start you normally have a combination of all or most of the below:

• Sailing dead downwind or very close to it.
• Mainsail hasn’t got enough vang on, causing it to twist a lot, hence creating a sideway force.
• Spinnaker too loosely sheeted and not “strapped down”, allowing it to sway from one side to the other
• Boat (slightly) over-powered for the wind it’s sailing in
• Often gusty conditions
• Waves can also help trigger the death roll movements

What to bear in mind

So, what are the steps to take to avoid the rolling to begin?

• Bring on the Vang (also known as “Kicker” in Europe) of the Main very tight, not allowing the twist in the leech. The twist actually causes a resulting force at the top of the sail pointing sideways rather than forward. Note: This is different from when trying to avoid a broach when sailing on a reach, then you actually release the vang to ease power/pressure from the main.
• If there is a temporary wind gust, temporary set of waves or sail trim hasn’t been adjusted yet the quickest option is to steer up a bit avoiding the dead downwind course.
• The general advice is otherwise to steer to keep the boat under the top of the mast.
• Make sure the crew keeps the weight low, ie no unnecessary standing in the boat. Lowering the centre of gravity makes a huge difference.
• For the Spinnaker we need to bring on the Tweekers maximum , i.e. all the way down to the deck of the boat.
• The spinnaker sheet will also need to be sheeted harder than otherwise (when sailing dead downwind you no longer want the kite to be on the brink of falling in, the normal practice when reaching). You don’t want the spinnaker flying far from the bow of the boat allowing it to shift from one side to the other.
• The Spinnaker pole also needs to be strapped down using the kicker (downhaul)  lines to further help control the movement of the kite.
• Let the Spinnaker pole forward a few feet more than you would have in calmer downwind conditions.

If the above actions didn’t seem to help and the tendency to start rolling is still there, well then maybe it’s time to go for a reef or a smaller Spinnaker or go to white sails only. Death rolls are never going to be fast in a racing situation.

If the death roll still happens what to do?

Firstly hang on to the boat for dear life, keeping your head low and avoiding the crashing boom. It is also very important to stay clear of the main sheet and main traveller!

Once the boat has gybed and is down on it’s side the crew needs to take action to get it upright again, and the priority is now to get the power out of the Spinnaker to allow the boat to be raised and also to minimise (further) damage to material or crew. I would suggest “smoking” the halyard, while keeping sheet and brace still on as the safest option which also enables the crew to get the sail in. I’m happy to be told better methods, comments are always welcome 🙂

Here’s some further video advice in the matter:

Share this:

Nice post. I learn something new and challenging on sites I stumbleupon on a daily basis. It will always be interesting to read content from other authors and practice something from other web sites.

Great article and the movie clip was a great teaching aid.

Strictly speaking what is described is a gybe broach. A Chinese gybe originally meant when the top half of the main gybes but the top of the sail doesn’t, caused by a boom vang breaking or being very loose.

Great article, the video is very helpful

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How to gybe a sailboat single handed

I do this all the time, but I was out with a friend the other day and he was asking me to lead him through the details. I thought it was obvious but apparently not.

Oh – and if you like this little tip and it helps – please LIKE it and LIKE us over there  ——-> Thanks – it encourages us to write more tips.

So here is how to gybe a sailboat when you are operating single handed.

During a gybe, the aft end of the boat turns through the wind. After a gybe the sails are on the opposite side of the boat. Care must be taken, a gybe can be dangerous in higher winds.

First realise this that when you gybe you are usually starting out on about 120 degs off the wind and you are going to gybe to the other side – again to about 120 degrees off the wind. Why 120 degrees  – it’s because it is about the most efficient point to keep both sails full – any further down wind and you start to shadow the head sail with the mainsail. And besides if you have taken our Electronic Navigation course , you’ll know that 120 degrees is faster speed towards a downwind destination than aiming 180 right at it – why – that’s another topic covered in depth in our Electronic Navigation course.

Anyway back on topic: 120 deg downwind apparent wind is approximately 135 deg true wind angle downwind (see Basic Sail Trim Course ) which is  45 degs off the true downwind angle. You’ll be gybing to 45 on the other side, so a gybe is a 90-degree turn.

This is important to know so that you set a goal heading prior to the gybe. Pick a house, tree, cloud, something that you want to be aiming at when you come out of the gybe.

If you have an autopilot, turn on auto.

Right – so next thing to do is to set up your headsail. Take the lazy sheet onto it’s winch and crank on it decently hard and cleat off. You’re not cranking the sail through, you just want tension on the lazy sheet. You must do this so that the headsail does not wrap around the front of the forestay whilst you are managing other things.

Next – set up the main sheet. Crank in on the mainsheet to bring the mainsail towards the centerline. Leave the locking cleat open so that you will be able to let the main out fast as it comes over.

Ok you’re ready – check for traffic.

If your auto-pilot is on, tap the 10 deg button 9 times in the direction of the gybe (90 degrees – remember). If you don’t have an auto-pilot then turn the wheel/tiller a tiny bit and apply the wheel or tiller lock. Call out to yourself “Gybe-Ho” (that’s optional).

Man the mainsheet (leave the headsail alone, it will do its own job). As the boat comes around, you will feel the mainsheet get even easier to bring to center, do that. As soon as the mainsail comes across you must let the mainsheet out as fast as possible. This will prevent rounding up and excessive heeling of the boat. Lock the mainsheet cleat clutch as soon as the mainsail is out. Now get to the wheel or tiller and straighten the boat out on course.

Now release the windward headsail sheet and let the already prepared leeward sheet pick up the tension on its own. You’ll probably need to trim it in a bit. The more you originally bought in the lazy sheet at the start, the less you will need to trim now.

Easy Peasy!

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Deep Water Happy

Basic gybing a sailboat.

• On May 18, 2023
• By Kimberly

Basic Gybing a Sailboat: 1) Preparation 2) Maneuver 3) Swapping Hands/Helms

Commands : .

Helmsman/Helmsperson gives the command: “Prepare to gybe.” This gives the crew a chance to get ready and set up for the maneuver. Trim main sheet. Helmsman puts the tiller away from the mainsail, (windward side) and gives the command: “Gybe-ho.” This notifies the crew that the boat is being turned. Or, helmsman turns the wheel toward the mainsail.

“Ready to gybe?” • “Prepare to gybe!” • “Ready to gybe?” • “Prepare to gybe!” You can choose what you want to say, but it is recommended that you don’t stray too far from those phrases listed above. Crew looks 360° around the boat, get ready to gybe, and says, “Ready!”

What do I prefer? “Ready to Gybe,” “Ready,” “Gybe-Ho.” Simple challenge and response; no chance for miscommunication.

Procedure :

• Helmsperson decides to gybe, must communicate action to crew
• Helmsperson says, “Ready to Gybe” and indicates next point of sail and direction
• Crew gets main and jib sheets ready; this action varies by boat
• Crew says, “Ready”
• Helmsperson checks that crew are truly ready
• Helmsperson initiates a slow, smooth turn to preserve momentum
• Helmsperson allows boat to coast downwind, avoids oversteering, look forward
• Boat runs downwind, loses speed, helmsperson readies to shift sides
• Crew releases burdened jib sheet when the clew dips
• Helmsperson turns boat a bit quickly to finish tack – as needed; boats are different
• Crew sheets in lazy sheet, there will be immediate resistance
• Crew adjusts sheets to point of sail one deeper than final point of sail
• Crew readjusts sheets to actual point of sail once momentum is gained
• Crew readies lazy jib sheet for the next gybe, helmsperson moves body upwind

Questions : 

What is gybing? How do you know when to gybe a sailboat? What do you say when you gybe a sailboat? What is the difference between tacking and gybing?

Why/when would you backwind the jib? When would you consider a “Chicken Gybe?” What is the benefit of “challenge and command” over “command?”

What part of the boat passes through the wind when you tack?

What additional care must be taken when gybing vice tacking? What damage can result?

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Yachting World

• Digital Edition

Boom preventers: How to use one and why they’re worth the hassle to rig

• February 20, 2020

The two minutes it takes to rig a boom preventer properly can pay off in so many ways, yet still a lot of sailors consider it an unnecessary hassle. Pip Hare begs to differ

Preventers should be rigged from the end of the boom to avoid damage in an accidental gybe

Rigging a boom preventer will allow you to sail a true downwind course without a constant worry about crew safety. I also use it to pin the boom in its preferred position in light winds with sloppy seas.

When racing short-handed with a symmetric spinnaker it also allows me to use aggressive windward heel to make extra metres to leeward. Here are a few of my top pointers for getting the most out of this valuable set-up.

Fixing point

The preventer should be attached to the outboard end of the boom to avoid damaging the tube in the event of an accidental gybe . Some boom end castings have a designated hole through which a preventer can be attached.

A large bowline loop (the red striped line) affixes the preventer to the boom. The knot can be reached without sheeting the boom in to the boat

If this is not the case then a large bowline loop passed around the end of the boom between the clew and the end casting will work just as well. The loop should be long enough so it can be undone from the side deck without the need to re-centre the boom.

Alternatively, to avoid hauling the boom in every time the preventer is required, make a strop around two-thirds of the length of the boom with an eye in both ends. One end can be permanently attached to the boom and the other will be attached to the running part of the preventer.

The strop can be accessed easily from within the footprint of the deck while the mainsail is out. When not in use, the strop can be tensioned with an elastic cord from either the kicker fitting or inboard boom casting.

Article continues below…

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Think of the preventer as a part of your running rigging. It works in opposition to the mainsheet and so needs to be accessible from the cockpit and easy to trim in as you let the mainsail out. For maximum resistance to an involuntary gybe the preventer line should lead from the boom end as far forward as possible, then back to the cockpit.

I often use a forward mooring cleat in lieu of a turning block, making use of the fairlead to avoid toe-rail chafe. If you have no mooring cleats available then use a snatch block on the toe rail or mid-foredeck.

The preventer line should be trimmed from the cockpit using a winch. Often the best winches for this function are halyard winches as they tend not to be in permanent use. This may mean feeding your line under a sprayhood.

If you have absolutely no winches free, then it is also possible to take the line back along the deck to a stern mooring cleat. If choosing this option, check for chafe as the line passes down the deck and ensure the preventer leads into the cleat with a fair or open angle so it can be eased smoothly under load.

As soon as your preventer is rigged, make sure your crew are aware of what to do in the event of a gybe, both planned and accidental. For a planned gybe ease the preventer out as the mainsheet is pulled in. Once the attachment point can be reached safely, a crewmember should detach it, working from the leeward side of the boom in case of an early gybe.

Once gybed, set it up again on the other side. Accidental gybing with a preventer rigged can be alarming, especially in the dark, with the noise made by the sail and the windward heel of the boat. In most cases, if the main loads up from behind, the helmsman should gently steer the boat back onto the original gybe. Be aware that the windward heel caused by the backed mainsail will bear the boat away further, so take action promptly.

In the worst cases, boat speed will slow significantly, and steering the yacht back onto the original gybe becomes impossible. In this case the preventer must be eased under control. Make sure all crew are away from the path of the boom and traveller, then gently ease the preventer with sufficient wraps around the winch to maintain smooth control. Pull in the mainsheet as it becomes slack, then gybe the main as normal.

Boom preventer tips

• Do not tie off the preventer forward. This would require a crew member to go forward for a release in the event of a gybe, whether voluntary or not.
• Resist the temptation to improvise a ‘quick fix’ to avoid pulling in the main by, say, tying vang fittings to the toe rail.
• On longer passages regularly check your preventer for chafe, particularly where it crosses the toe rail, or if you are using a mooring cleat as a turning block.
• A preventer line should be around 1.5 times your boat length and the same diameter as your mainsheet. Double braid polyester is ideal.

First published in the September 2017 edition of Yachting World.

• EXPLORE Random Article

How to Jibe

Last Updated: October 8, 2021 References

This article was co-authored by Nitzan Levy . Captain Nitzan Levy is a Sailor, Social Entrepreneur, and the Founder of Sailors NYC, a recreational sailors’ club based in Jersey City, New Jersey that specializes in cruising boats and a variety of community programs. Capt. Levy has over 20 years of sailing experience and has sailed in many places around the world including: the Atlantic Ocean, the Mediterranean Sea, The Caribbean, and the Indian Ocean. Capt. Levy is a U.S. Coast Guard Licensed Master of vessels up to 50 Tons with Auxiliary Sail and Assistance Towing Endorsements. Capt. Levy is also a NauticEd Level V Captain Rank Chief Instructor, an American National Standards Assessor, an SLC instructor, an ASA (American Sailing Association) Certified Instructor Bareboat Chartering, and an Israeli licensed skipper on Boats for International Voyages. There are 7 references cited in this article, which can be found at the bottom of the page. This article has been viewed 9,263 times.

Jibing, or gybing, is the act of putting the stern, or rear of the boat, through the wind. This boating technique requires you to move the sails on your boat to the opposite side of the boat so that they catch the wind at a different angle. Jibing can be dangerous because of the velocity in which the sail and boom move across the boat. However, if you follow the right techniques and communicate effectively, you can safely jibe while in a sailboat. [1] X Research source

Performing a Jibe

• Doing this before you turn the boat wheel will prevent the mainsail and boom from swinging across the boat.

Communicating The Jibe

• Alternatively, you can say "Prepare to jibe."

Expert Q&A

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• ↑ http://www.schoolofsailing.net/tacking-and-jibing.html
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNRbLrxDs3E&feature=youtu.be&t=4m32s
• ↑ https://www.thoughtco.com/how-to-gybe-a-sailboat-2915467
• ↑ http://www.nauticed.org/sailing-blog/how-to-gybe-a-sailboat-single-handed/
• ↑ http://northern-light-sf.com/procedures/mainsheet.shtml#toc-lee-jibing
• ↑ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RNRbLrxDs3E&feature=youtu.be&t=5m45s
• ↑ http://www.sailingworld.com/mastering-blow-through-jibes#page-2

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