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cape dory 30 sailboat data

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  • Sailboat Reviews

Cape Dory 30

Our pick of these boats is a cutter-rigged late model with full-width galley and pedestal steering..

cape dory 30 sailboat data

When the Cape Dory 30 entered production in 1976, it was the largest boat in the expanding line of the Taunton, Massachusetts boatbuilder. In 1986, when production ceased, over 350 Cape Dory 30s had been built, and what had been the largest boat in the company’s fleet was one of the smallest.

In 1986, Cape Dory introduced the Cape Dory 30 Mk II, an entirely different boat, designed in-house (rather than by Carl Alberg), longer on the waterline, 1 1/2′ wider, and with a far roomier and more modern interior.

The old Cape Dory 30 was designed as a ketch, with cutter or sloop rigs optional. In the middle of the production run, the more efficient cutter rig replaced the ketch as standard. The ketch remained an option.

The Cape Dory line always consisted of traditional- looking, long-keel cruising boats, and their appeal has been strongest on the East Coast, particularly in New England, a well-known hotbed of sailing reactionaries.

Sailing Performance

No one buys a Cape Dory looking for a flashy speedster. The original ketch rig has a lot of windage, and relatively small, inefficient sails. The rig does, however, give the boat a distinctly “shippy” traditional appearance.

A PHRF rating of about 220 shows the ketch to be a slow boat. By way of contrast, the old original C&C 25 carries about the same rating. The cutter-rigged Cape Dory 30 is about 15 seconds per mile faster.

The Cape Dory 30 was originally equipped with worm gear steering. This type of gear is powerful, foolproof, and requires no steering pedestal in the cockpit. The wheel will also hold the rudder in position without a brake. The disadvantage is that there is almost no rudder feedback, so that it’s hard to tell when the boat is properly balanced. Worm gear steering will not make you a better sailor.

The worm gear steerer is especially compatible with the original ketch rig. Since the mizzen is stepped in the middle of the cockpit, it’s nice to get the steering wheel back aft where it won’t take up any usable space. The top of the steering gear box also serves as a good helmsman’s seat.

With the cutter rig, it became feasible to put a more conventional pedestal steerer in the boat. However, moving the steerer further forward meant that the old steering box—now a storage locker—was too far away from the wheel to be used as a seat.

In practice, you usually sit to the side of the wheel with a pedestal steerer, not behind it. But this re- quires a wheel that is big enough to let you get far enough outboard to see sail trim. Most helmsmen will only sit directly behind the wheel when the boat is under power and they can see straight ahead, with no sails in the way.

The big steering wheel that’s the easiest to use with pedestal steering almost requires a T-shaped cockpit for easy maneuverability. The Cape Dory 30 stuck with the straight bench cockpit seats, and used a fairly small destroyer wheel. Although you don’t need the leverage of a big wheel on this boat, it will make steering less tiring, and there is room between the seats to fit a larger-diameter wheel. It would make it necessary to climb over the seats to go forward, however.

Most owners report that the boat—with either rig—is easy to balance under sail. The percentage reporting difficulty in balancing the boat complain of excessive weather helm on a close reach.

Hard steering when reaching is a common complaint on boats with attached rudders and a lot of rake to the rudderpost. The Cape Dory 30 does have a relatively efficient Constellation-type rudder, even if it is located about 2′ further forward than it would be with a comparable fin keel and spade rudder underbody.

Weather helm when reaching is frequently caused by overtrimming the main. On a boat without a vang, the boom tends to lift quickly as the sheet is eased, and the top of the sail twists off and begins to luff. Thinking they’ve eased the sheet too much, many sailors will at that point overtrim the main, shifting the draft of the sail aft and creating weather helm. Under those conditions, the proper thing to do with the Cape Dory 30 is use mainsheet tension to create a fair leech, then ease the traveler down to keep the whole sail working.

On both rigs, the mainsail is controlled by a traveler over the main companionway.

With the ketch rig, the mast is stepped further forward than the cutter, and the mainsheet attaches to the boom about two-thirds of the way aft, giving reasonable leverage. With the cutter, the mast location means that the mainsheet attaches almost exactly at the boom midpoint, reducing leverage and making the sail somewhat harder to trim.

In either case the traveler location at the forward end of the companionway is out of the way, but it makes installing a cockpit dodger more difficult.

The cutter’s main boom is at a reasonable height, but the taller helmsman should still watch his head when tacking.

With the advent of modern headsail reefing systems, the cutter rig is really superfluous on this boat. The small gap between the forestay and headstay makes it difficult to tack a big genoa, yet you really need a big genoa if this fairly heavy boat is to be properly powered in light air. The double head rig is fine in breezes over 15 knots, but in lighter air it’s much slower than a good number one genoa.

According to owners, the boat’s only sailing weakness is light air. With a lot of wetted surface and an inefficient foretriangle, the boat is simply not going to be fast in very light air. All in all, though, owners say the boat is faster than they expected it to be in all conditions.

With a 40% ballast/displacement ratio, the Cape Dory 30 is reasonably stiff despite the very narrow beam. You can get stability with a lot of ballast down low, or with a lot of beam. The Cape Dory 30 gets it from a lot of ballast, placed low in the hull.

With less weight aloft, the cutter should be slightly stiffer than the ketch.

Both the ketch and cutter rig use simple, untapered aluminum masts, stepped on deck. With a stiff section and double lower shrouds, these rigs are fairly foolproof.

Unlike many builders, Cape Dory put diesel engines in every inboard-powered sailboat they built after 1975. You won’t find an Atomic 4 here.

What you will find, unfortunately, is an engine installation and selection that is somewhat less than ideal.

Because this is a narrow boat with slack bilges, it wasn’t possible to get the engine far enough down in the bilge to be out of the way in a normal installation. Instead, the engine is mounted under the cockpit, using a V-drive. The engine is kept out of the way, but out of sight in this case means poor access for servicing. Getting to the alternator belts for adjustment, for example, requires crawlingunder the cockpit through a locker.

The original engine was a single-cylinder Yanmar diesel rated at 12 hp. This engine is too small for the boat, and single-cylinder engines are notorious for their vibration.

Starting with 1977 models, the Yanmar diesel was replaced with a Volvo MD7A, rated at 13 hp. The Volvo engine has more displacement, and has two cylinders. Nevertheless, some owners still complain that the boat is underpowered with the Volvo diesel.

Despite the long keel, the Cape Dory is reasonably maneuverable under power. The exception is handling in reverse, which according to many owners varies from unpredictable to impossible. This is not a characteristic unique to this boat; it is a fault of most long-keel boats with attached rudders. You learn to act as if reverse were nothing more than a set of brakes—not very good ones, at that.

Other than its location, the engine installation itself is pretty good, with dual fuel filters, 1″ bronze shaft, and oil drip pan under the engine. The fuel tank capacity of 20 gallons should give well over 200 miles range under power with any of the engines.

During the 1983 model year, a switch was made to a two-cylinder Universal diesel. We would definitely prefer a boat with either the Volvo or Universal engine over the original small Yanmar.

Construction

The Cape Dory 30 is solidly built, although there is nothing particularly innovative or unusual about the construction. The hull is a solid fiberglass laminate, the deck is balsa cored. No owners in our survey mention problems with either hull or deck construction.

A number of owners have reservations about the hull-to-deck joint, which is not through-bolted. Other owners mention that there are washers but no backing plates on deck hardware such as lifeline stanchions. Although none report problems either with deck hardware or the hull-to-deck joint, their concerns are valid. Backing plates on deck hardware help distribute loads, and reduce the chance of stress cracks around fittings. Likewise, a through-bolted hull-to-deck connection offers a foolproof mechanical backup should the polyester putty bond between the hull and deck fail. Bolts won’t stop leaks, but a through-bolted joint won’t come apart until the surrounding glass fails.

As in most boats this size, the lifeline stanchions are only 24″ high. This is too low for any real security—the lifelines strike most people just about at knee height, the right height for tripping. There are some bolts through the hull-to-deck joint, since both the lifeline stanchions and chainplates fasten through the inward-turning hull flange. We would, however, prefer to see closely-spaced bolts throughout the length of the joint.

Chainplates are cast bronze lugs bolted through the hull and deck flange. As long as the hull and deck are adequately reinforced—and they are, in this case—this type of installation is fine.

We’ve seen the same general type of chainplates on 40′ boats with Lloyds certificates, so they can’t be all bad.

All Cape Dory boats came with deck hardware— cleats, winch islands, bow fittings, seacocks and chainplates—by Spartan, a sister company to Cape

Dory. This is good stuff that will last the life of the boat and then some. The only disadvantages are that it is heavy, being bronze, and is not very well finished.

Going from burnished to polished finish just about doubles the price of a piece of hardware— polishing is very labor intensive—and on most Cape Dory 30s you’ll find burnished hardware. It’s rugged, though.

There’s a fair amount of exterior teak on these boats, including cockpit coamings, toerails, hatch trim, and eyebrow trim around the cabin on later models. This gives the boat a yachty appearance, but it does increase maintenance.

You could get the Cape Dory 30 in any color you wanted, as long as it was Cape Dory white with a nicely-contrasting tan deck. Several owners report discoloration of the colored portion of the non-skid decks. The non-skid itself is quite functional.

Early boats in this series have an unusual water tankage arrangement. One tank is plumbed to the head sink, the other to the galley.

Since you use a lot more water in the galley than in the head, that tank runs out first. Many owners have replumbed these tanks so that you can use the entire water supply.

Some early boats also have the water tank fills located below, which may be fine for keeping salt water out of the tanks, but can make for a fire drill when trying to fill them without making a mess. On later boats there is a 30-gallon water tank under each main cabin settee, and the system is correctly plumbed.

There are proper seacocks on all fittings below the waterline.

The deck-stepped rigs in both the cutter and ketch are well engineered, as no owners in our survey report any deck deflection or stress cracking in that area.

Unlike a lot of 30-footers, the Cape Dory 30 was designed as a small seagoing boat. For example, it has a reasonable bridge deck, although it is lower than the main cockpit seats and the cockpit coamings.There is also a sea hood over the main companionway hatch.

The main companionway is an unusual design. The vertical part of the companionway is fairly narrow and straight sided—good features in terms of seaworthiness. The sliding hatch and its opening are wider, letting more light and air below.

Relatively few owners in our survey report gelcoat blistering. The only glasswork complaints were gelcoat crazing in an early model, and discoloration of the gelcoat in the hull liner, cabin overhead, and non-skid areas in the deck.

Compared to newer 30-footers, the Cape Dory 30 is cramped below. The boat is more than a foot narrower than the typical cruiser/racer built today, and about 2′ shorter on the waterline. There’s no way around it: this is a small boat.

Within these limitations, the interior layout is pretty good. There are V-berths forward, with a dropin insert to form a double. The forward berths are narrow at the foot.

Ventilation in the forward cabin is provided by two opening ports plus an overhead Bomar aluminum- framed hatch. There are drawers and lockers beneath the berths.

The head compartment utilizes the full width of the boat, the way it should on a boat this narrow. Outboard of the toilet is a hanging locker. Opposite the toilet there is a dresser with sink.

A grate in the head sole for a shower was standard equipment, but the pressure water necessary to use it was an option. If you’re going to spend more than a weekend on a boat, a shower is almost mandatory.

Inexplicably, the head sink and shower drain into the bilge. This is unacceptable. Because of the boat’s low freeboard, the head sink is too low to be plumbed directly overboard if you expect it to drain on port tack. The best solution, although it is somewhat awkward, would be to install a closed sump tank in the bilge. It could be emptied overboard by either a manual or an electric pump. You wouldn’t want your bathroom sink and shower to drain into your basement, would you?

Two opening ports plus a cowl vent in a Dorade box provide ventilation in the head. If it were our boat, we’d also install a small venting hatch or another Dorade box over the head, even though the standard arrangement is better than you find on many larger boats.

The main cabin has settees which double as berths along either side. There are narrow shelves above and outboard of each settee.

Since the water tanks take up most of the volume below the main cabin settees, there is little storage space available in the main cabin.

As in most boats this size, the main cabin table folds down from the forward main bulkhead. It will seat four, although in a somewhat cramped fashion.

In the original layout, the galley aft runs the full width of the boat. On the port side there is a pressurized, two-burner gimbaled alcohol stove with oven.

If you want to stay with alcohol cooking fuel, we recommend switching to a non-pressurized stove such as the Origo. Despite the fact that alcohol fires can be extinguished with water, pressurized alcohol stoves can be dangerous because most people underestimate the volatility of the fuel.

The sinks are aft of the stove, and are somewhat difficult to reach because the slope of the bilge intrudes into the space where you would normally stand.

Opposite the stove there is a good galley dresser containing an icebox, storage bin, and drawers. The icebox drains into the bilge. This is a poor arrangement, since organic matter from the icebox will inevitably contaminate the bilge, even if it is pumped daily. The icebox could either be pumped into the galley sink, or into the sump you install for the head sink and shower.

With this layout, you use the top of the icebox as a navigation table. The lack of a good place to do chart work is a common failing in older designs of this size.

Late in the production run, the interior layout was “modernized” by adding a quarterberth and small chart table. The arrangement takes up a lot of the space that was formerly used for the galley. You get another berth—which you don’t need—at the cook’s expense. We don’t think this layout is an improvement, despite the fact that the navigator gets his or her own workspace.

Headroom on centerline in the main cabin is just over 6′, with slightly less further forward.

Main cabin ventilation is good, with four opening ports—excellent bronze Spartan ports—and an overhead Bomar hatch. We’d add a pair of cowl vents in Dorade boxes on either side of the ventilation hatch. The space is there, and the job is pretty simple. Although the galley has reasonable storage, there is little storage space in the rest of the boat. This makes the boat unsuitable as a long-term cruising boat, unless you want to do a fair amount of modification to the interior.

Joinerwork and finishing detail throughout are of good production boat quality. Since a lot of teak is used for interior woodwork, the boat is quite dark below.

You could brighten this up a lot by finishing the interior with gloss varnish, rather than the standard satin oil finish.

Conclusions

With her narrow beam and short waterline, the Cape Dory 30 is a lot smaller than newer boats of this length and displacement. The boat will have a strong appeal to the traditionalist who places a high value on appearance.

The boats are well constructed, suited for serious coastal cruising, and perhaps for limited offshore sailing.

Cape Dory boats were quite expensive, but they hold their value well. When production began in 1976, the Cape Dory 30 had a base price of about $29,000. By the time production ceased a decade later, the price had almost doubled—but so had the price of just about everything.

Although some might prefer the “shippiness” of the ketch rig, the cutter is both faster and more practical. Some boats were built as sloops, and this would be the best rig of all. Inevitably, the Cape Dory 30 will be compared to the Alberg 30. The Cape Dory 30 is longer on the waterline, wider, heavier, and has a roomier interior. The Cape Dory 30 cutter is slightly faster than the sloop-rigged Alberg 30.

Our choice in a Cape Dory 30 would be a latemodel cutter with full-width galley, Edson pedestal, and the Volvo or Universal diesel. For the money, you get a well-designed traditional boat that is a good coastal cruiser for a couple or a small family. We don’t think the boat is big enough for four adults for anything more than weekend sailing.

If you want the looks of an older boat but the construction details and diesel engine found in newer boats, the Cape Dory 30 is a good choice.

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14 comments.

Some photos would be useful in an article like this. Remember a photo is worth how many words? Regards

Agree – at least one picture of the entire boat would’ve been appreciated

Good article. very informative

If you’re a sailor you’re proud to show your boat! Where are the photos of this boat???

Pictures would’ve been great

If readers are accessing this story on-line, a quick search for “Cape Dory 30 Mark II” produces 1.7 million images.

…so even less excuse for not putting a couple here… 🙂

Cape Dory apparently ventured into trying to have a little more modern design by producing around 75 or so boats with a fin keel and sloop rig – Intrepid 9m by Cape Dory. Ours was originally outfitted with the Volvo diesel but was at some point changed to a 27hp Yanmar 3 cylinder. Much of the Cape Dory 30 interior description sounds similar. It’s been a slow project for us with much to do.

This article was previously published in the 6th edition of Practical Boat Buying in 2003, and perhaps in earlier editions as well. Originally, the article included a sail plan and line drawing of the layout.

i have the Cape Dory 31. One foot difference makes a big difference in the layout. I love the boat.

I bought a 1978 Cape Dory 30 ketch a few years ago, my first big boat, in the hopes of coastal and some blue water cruising. I appreciate the comments made in the article, there are many good points made. A few comments/questions: -I agree with the discussion of backing the boat; I cannot claim to do it well, especially in crosswinds out of a slip. Nice to know I am not alone. -Not sure I understand why the ketch would be more tender than the cutter; its mainmast is a foot or two shorter with a resulting shorter lever-arm. -It should be mentioned that the ketch has a longer on-deck space than the cutter, making it possible to carry a small dinghy on deck; I’m not sure this would be possible with the cutter. -The ketch allows flexibility in sail handling: I can sail with furling genoa and mizzen with good balance, raising and trimming without leaving the cockpit. This is a real blessing for single handing, of which I do a fair amount. -I have installed a Schaefer furler for the genoa, replacing the much older poorly functioning furler that came with the boat. I can self tack the genoa using the jibboom that came with the boat, or raise a storm jib with the jibboom and self tack with a sail well back off the bowsprit. Again, nice for cruising, single handing, and heavy air. -It probably should be mentioned that the Cape Dorys have internal ballasted molded in keel. This may be an advantage in an older boat since one does not have to worry about aging keel bolts. The 4 foot draft, with long keel and attached rudder is an advantage in places like the Louisiana Gulf Coast with plenty of shallow, quite muddy water. Yes, unfortunately, I know this from experience. -Recent hurricanes have put a number of boats ashore. Friends from Texas have told me that one of their members’ Cape Dorys went ashore losing mast and rigging, but little damage to the hull. Anecdotal, but the hull is thick with good glasswork. -I agree with the assessment of the bronze steering gear that came with the boat. It seems bulletproof and simple. Any assessment as to whether it would work with an autopilot system? -thanks for the article.

How does this boat look like, no photos, Great article, not.

For those not entirely reading the fine article…

“ By Darrell Nicholson – June 14, 2000”

Solid review.

What the cape dory cutter rig really needs is a Bowsprit a rather long one at that. Put a 3-4 ft bow sprit on it move the head stay out to the end and the move the staysail stay to where the head stay was and you then have a far better sail plan and you would increase the displacement to sail area ratio to quite speedy levels. Also the main needs a boomvang. The mast without a bowsprit is still too far forward for an efficient cutter rig. (Ona cutter the mast should really be center of the sail plan. I can see looking at the standard sail plan why it would have excessive weather helm not enough head sail area to overcome the main and over all not enough sail area. Carl Alberg included a small bowsprit on the Cape dory 28 and looking at the design of the 30 most of the extra length was added aft. Of the keel. I would really like to see what a long bowsprit would do (would also help with anchoring as you could get the bow roller further out)

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Bluewater Sailboat – Cape Dory 30

Bluewater Sailboat Cape Dory 30 was initially constructed in 1976 by Cape Dory Yachts using Carl Alberg’s design as the basis. Its LOA is 9.21 and its hull type is Full Keel. Its ratio of sail area to displacement is 15.11. Diesel fuel powers its auxiliary power tank, which was made by Volvo.

Due to the quality of the construction, the prestige of the building, and the loyal owner base, CAPE DORY 30C has maintained its worth. 

The boat is magnificent. The colorful art shines. The lines have been expertly spliced together. DeLaMer is exceptionally ship-shape both inside and out. The boat and Jan and Larry work together to compliment each other and the boat. It was meant to be, Larry explains while explaining why they chose this Cape Dory. This is distinct from saying it was simple or straightforward to do.

Looking for a used sailboat for sale? Check out the sailboat data and sailboat specs to make an informed decision. Now you can precisely calculate the expenses related to boat ownership so that you can make smart choices based on your budget and sailing needs. Use this Sailboat Calculator to explore different options and make the best decision.

Cape Dory 30

  • LOA: 9.21 m / 30.22 ft
  • Rigging Type: Cutter
  • Hull Type: Full Keel
  • S.A. (Reported): 40.6 m2 / 437.01 ft2
  • Draft (Max): 1.27 m / 4.17 ft
  • Displacement: 4536 kg / 10000.16 lbs
  • Ballast: 1814 kg / 3999.18 lbs
  • S.A./Disp.: 15.11
  • Bal./Disp.: 40.00
  • Disp./Len.: 375.18
  • Construction: FG
  • Ballast Type: Lead
  • Last Built: 1987
  • Designers: Carl Alberg
  • LWL: 6.96 m / 22.83 ft

The Cape Dory 30 was the largest bluewater sailboat in the growing lineup when it first went into production in Taunton, Massachusetts, in 1976. Over 350 Cape Dory 30s had been produced by the time production halted in 1986, and the largest vessel in the fleet of the business was now one of the smallest.

The Cape Dory 30 Mk II was a completely new boat, designed internally by Cape Dory in 1986 (rather than by Carl Alberg), longer on the waterline, 1 1/2′ wider, and with a much roomier and contemporary interior. The original Cape Dory 30 was built as a ketch with the choice of cutter or sloop rigs. The ketch was switched out for the more productive cutter rig in the middle of the manufacturing run. The ketch was still an alternative.

The Cape Dory line has always featured traditional-looking, long-keeled cruising boats, and the East Coast, especially New England, is where these sailboats have historically found the most fans.

The lifeline stanchions are just 24′′ high, like the majority of sailboats of size. The lifelines here are too low to provide any meaningful security; they hit the majority of people approximately knee high, which is the ideal height for tripping. Since the chainplates and lifeline stanchions are attached through the hull’s inward-turning flange, there are a few bolts through the hull-to-deck junction. However, rather have evenly placed bolts all the way across the joint.

Chainplates are bolted through the hull and deck flange by cast bronze lugs. This kind of arrangement is acceptable as long as the hull and deck are sufficiently reinforced, which they are in this instance.

All Cape Dory boats come equipped with deck hardware from Spartan, a sister firm to Cape Dory, including cleats, winch islands, bow fittings, seacocks, and chainplates.  This is high-quality equipment that will last the sailboat’s lifetime and then some. The only drawbacks are that it is not very well finished and is weighty because it is made of bronze. Since polishing requires a lot of labor, going from a burnished to a polished finish almost doubles the cost of a piece of hardware. Burnished hardware is seen on the majority of Cape Dory 30s. However, it is rough.

On these bluewater sailboats, the cockpit coamings, toerails, hatch trim, and eyebrow trim around the cabin on later versions are all made of external teak. Although it increases upkeep, this gives the boat a yacht-like appearance. As long as it was Cape Dory white with an attractively contrasted tan deck, you could order the Cape Dory 30 in any color you desired. Many owners have complained about the colorful area of the non-skid decking becoming discolored. The non-skid is really useful by itself.  This series’ early sailboats have an unusual water tankage configuration. The head sink and the kitchen both have plumbing for their respective tanks. The water tank in the galley empties first because you use a lot more of it there than you do in the head. These tanks have been re-plumbed by many owners so you can use the complete water supply.

Additionally, the water tank fills on some older boats are positioned below, which may be excellent for keeping salt water out of the tanks but can be a fire drill to fill without a mess. On subsequent boats, the system is properly plumbed and there is a 30-gallon water tank under each main cabin sofa.  All fittings below the waterline have functional seacocks.  No owners in our survey reported any deck deflection or stress cracking in that region, demonstrating the high level of engineering that went into the deck-stepped rigs on both the cutter and ketch.

The Cape Dory 30 was created as a modest seagoing bluewater sailboat, unlike many 30-footers. For instance, although though it is lower than the primary cockpit seats and cockpit coamings, it has a nice bridge deck. Over the main companionway hatch, there is a sea hood as well. The primary companionway is built in an innovative way. The vertical portion of the companionway is very straight-sided and narrow, which are advantageous characteristics for seaworthiness. There is more light and air below thanks to the bigger aperture and sliding hatch.  In the poll, just a small percentage of owners mention gelcoat blistering. Gelcoat crazing in an early model and gelcoat discoloration in the hull liner, cabin ceiling, and non-skid parts of the deck were the sole concerns regarding glasswork.

The Cape Dory 30 is small below compared to more recent 30-footers. The boat is nearly 2 feet shorter on the waterline and more than a foot thinner than the usual ocean cruiser/racer constructed today. This is a little boat, there’s no getting around that.  The interior design is decent given these restrictions. Forward are V-berths that may be made into a double with a drop-in insert. The foot of the forward berths is small.  Two opening ports and an above Bomar aluminum-framed hatch help to ventilate the front cabin. Underneath the sleepers are drawers and lockers.  On a bluewater sailboat this small, the head compartment makes use of the entire width of the vessel. A hanging locker is located outside the bathroom. A dresser with a sink is located across from the toilet.

The pressure water required to use the shower grating, which was standard equipment, was an option. It’s nearly a requirement to take a shower if you want to spend more than a weekend aboard a yacht.  Unexpectedly, the shower and head sink flow into the bilge. This must change. The head sink is too low to be piped directly overboard if you anticipate it to drain on port tack due to the boat’s limited freeboard. Installing a closed sump tank in the bilge might be the best option, while being a little uncomfortable. Either a manual or an electric pump could be used to empty it overboard. 

The head is ventilated by two opening ports and a cowl vent in a Dorade box. Even though the conventional configuration is superior to what you see on many larger boats, adding a small venting opening or another Dorade box is wise.  Along each side of the main cabin are settees that can be used as berths. Each sofa has a pair of slender shelves above and outside.  There isn’t much storage room in the main cabin because the water tanks occupy the majority of the space beneath the settees.

The main cabin table pulls down from the forward main bulkhead, as it does with the majority of boats this size. It can accommodate four people, albeit in a relatively confined space.  The Sailboats Galley is aft and spans the entire width of the boat in the original design. A pressurized, two-burner, gimbaled alcohol stove with an oven is located on the port side of the vessel. It is advised upgrading to a non-pressurized stove like the Origo if you wish to continue using alcohol as a cooking fuel. Pressurized alcohol stoves can be hazardous since most people misunderstand the fuel’s volatility, even though alcohol fires can be put out with water.  The sinks are located behind the stove and can be challenging to access because the bilge’s slope encroaches into the area where you would ordinarily stand.

A decent galley dresser with drawers, an icebox, and storage is located opposite the stove. The bilge is where the icebox empties. This is a bad setup because even with daily pumping, organic material from the icebox will eventually contaminate the bilge. Either the galley sink or the sump you install for the head sink and shower could get water from the icebox.  In this design, the icebox’s top serves as a table for navigation. In earlier designs of this size, it’s usual to have a bad area to undertake chart work.

Late in the production run, a quarterberth and tiny chart table were added to “modernize” the interior design.  The space that was once utilized for the galley is largely taken up by the arrangement. You are given an extra bed at the cook’s expense even if you don’t need it. Although the navigator has a dedicated workspace, this structure is an upgrade.

In the main cabin, there is just over 6 feet of headroom on the centerline and a little less farther forward.  Four opening ports—excellent bronze Spartan ports—and an overhead Bomar hatch provide adequate main cabin ventilation. On either side of the ventilation hatch, include a pair of cowl vents in Dorade boxes. The area is available, and the task is not too difficult. While there is some storage in the galley, there isn’t much elsewhere on the boat.

This makes the yacht unsuited for long-distance travelling unless you want to make significant interior modifications.  All of the joinery and finishing details are of production boat grade. The interior of the yacht is very dark because a lot of teak was used for the woodwork.  Instead of the customary satin oil finish, you may greatly brighten this by gloss varnishing the interior.

Performance

The Cape Dory 30 is renowned for its traditional and vintage appearance rather than its speed. With a roughly 220 PHRF rating, it falls into the category of slow boats when compared to the original C&C 25, which has a rating of a same magnitude. The Cape Dory 30 sails at a rate of around 15 seconds per mile when it is cutter-rigged.

Worm gear steering was the Cape Dory 30’s original steering system. There is no need for a steering pedestal in the cockpit and the steering is strong and reliable. However, because there is no rudder feedback, it is challenging to tell if the boat is balanced properly.

The advantage of having the steering wheel back in the cockpit with worm gear steering is that it is particularly compatible with the original ketch rig. In addition, a supportive helmsman’s seat is located on top of the steering gear box.

The cutter rig enables the installation of a pedestal steerer that is more conventional. However, after the steerer was moved forward, the original steering box, which is now a storage locker, was too distant from the wheel to be used as a seat. A pedestal steerer requires a wheel that is large enough for the helmsman to see the sail trim while typically sitting to the side of the wheel. The majority of helmsmen will sit directly behind the wheel when under power and with a clear vision.

A T-shaped cockpit is necessary when using a large steering wheel with pedestal steering. The Cape Dory 30, on the other hand, keeps its straight bench cockpit seating and small destroyer wheel. It is not required to use a larger-diameter wheel because doing so would force you to climb over the seats in order to move forward. However, there is space between the seats for one. With any rig, most owners found the boat to be easy to balance, while a few have complained of heavy weather helm on a close reach.

The Constellation-style rudder of the Cape Dory 30 is positioned about 2 feet forward and is moderately effective; hard steering while reaching is not a regular complaint. If the primary is over-trimmed, reaching may experience weather helm. In order to maintain a healthy leech, the traveller should be eased down after using the mainsheet tension to produce a good leech. The mainsail on both rigs is managed by the person crossing the main companionway. With its mast stepped further forward and mainsheet tied to the boom roughly two-thirds of the way aft, the ketch rig offers better leverage. The mainsheet is tied to the cutter rig practically in the middle of the boom, which reduces leverage and makes trimming the sail a little more challenging. In any case, it might be difficult to instal a cockpit dodger due to the passenger’s position at the forward end of the companionway.

Although the cutter’s main boom is at a reasonable height, tall helmsmen should use caution when tacking.

The development of contemporary headsail reefing technologies has eliminated the need for the cutter rig. Due to the tight area between the forestay and headstay, tacking a large genoa might be difficult but is necessary for sufficient power in light breezes. The double head rig is adequate in winds over 15 knots, but in lighter weather, it sails much more slowly than a good number one genoa. The boat’s only sailing weakness is light air, as it has a lot of wetted surface and a weak foretriangle. Despite this, owners discover that the boat is always faster than they anticipated.

The Cape Dory 30’s significant wetted surface and inefficient foretriangle prevent it from becoming the fastest boat in light air. Owners assert that the boat is faster than they expected it to be in any other circumstances. The Cape Dory 30 is a solid boat with a 40% ballast to displacement ratio and low-positioned ballast, giving stability despite its small beam. The ketch and cutter rigs are dependable and error-proof systems since they are both outfitted with uncomplicated, untapered aluminium masts that are stepped on deck.

Quick Notes

The Cape Dory 30 is significantly smaller than newer bluewater sailboats of this length and displacement thanks to her narrow beam and short waterline. The traditionalist who sets a great importance on looks will find the boat to be quite appealing.  The vessels are nicely made and suitable for serious coastal cruising as well as possibly some light offshore sailing.

Although some people might favor the ketch rig’s “shippiness,” the cutter is both quicker and more useful. This would be the greatest rig of all the boats because some of them were built as sloops. The Cape Dory 30 will unavoidably be contrasted with the Alberg 30. The Cape Dory 30 has a larger interior and is wider, heavier, and longer on the water. The sloop-rigged Alberg 30 is not as quick as the Cape Dory 30 cutter.

A modern cutter with a full-width galley, an Edson pedestal, and a Volvo or Universal diesel would be our preferred option for a Cape Dory 30. For the money, you get a decent coastal cruiser for a couple or a small family that is traditionally fashioned. The boat is large enough for four adults to go sailing for longer than a weekend. The Cape Dory 30 is a wonderful option if you want the appearance of an older yacht but the construction features and diesel engine seen in current boats.

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CAPE DORY 30 MK II Detailed Review

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If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of CAPE DORY 30 MK II. Built by Cape Dory Yachts and designed by undefined, the boat was first built in 1987. It has a hull type of Long Keel and LOA is 9.3. Its sail area/displacement ratio 16.57. Its auxiliary power tank, manufactured by Westerbeke, runs on Diesel.

CAPE DORY 30 MK II has retained its value as a result of superior building, a solid reputation, and a devoted owner base. Read on to find out more about CAPE DORY 30 MK II and decide if it is a fit for your boating needs.

Boat Information

Boat specifications, sail boat calculation, rig and sail specs, auxillary power tank, accomodations, contributions, who builds cape dory 30 mk ii.

CAPE DORY 30 MK II is built by Cape Dory Yachts.

When was CAPE DORY 30 MK II first built?

CAPE DORY 30 MK II was first built in 1987.

How long is CAPE DORY 30 MK II?

CAPE DORY 30 MK II is 7.37 m in length.

What is mast height on CAPE DORY 30 MK II?

CAPE DORY 30 MK II has a mast height of 10.69 m.

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Cape dory 330

The cape dory 330 is a 33.04ft cutter designed by carl alberg and built in fiberglass by cape dory yachts between 1985 and 1988., 27 units have been built..

The Cape dory 330 is a very heavy sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a bluewater cruising boat.

Cape dory 330 sailboat under sail

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1983 Cape Dory 30

  • Description

Seller's Description

Standard features

1983 Cape Dory 30 with Trailer

The Cape Dory 30 with Cutter Rig is well balanced and extremely seaworthy. Cape Dorys are well built boats that hold their value over time. This boat has been stored in a barn on its trailer since it was decommissioned in 2013. Worm Gear Wheel Steering is almost bulletproof. Volvo MD7A Diesel. The interior needs some work to bring back to its traditional style. With a bit of work, this boat will be a great buy for Cape Dory fans and sailing traditionalists.

ACCOMMODATIONS:

V Berth forward with filler to make double berth Private head is next aft with toilet to port and sink to starboard Main cabin has opposing settees with center drop leaf table. Port settee pulls out to make a double. Starboard berth is a single. Shelves outboard on each side for books and storage. Galley is athwartships aft. Needs new stove, sink to port and icebox. Additional counterspace to starboard. Interior needs new cushions and interior teak needs to be cleaned and re-oiled. Upgrading interior will restore Cape Dory Classic Styling.

DECK/SAILS RIGGING:

Cutter Rig is very efficient to handle. Easy to single hand Deck is in good shape Worm Gear Wheel Steering is nearly bulletproof Needs Compass for Binnacle Trailer in good condition

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

Derived from an earlier boat called the NAUGUS 30, originally built in 1967 by Naugus Fiberglass Industries, (Marblehead, MA) (6 built). The tooling was later sold to Cape Dory Yachts and renamed CAPE 30. Thanks to NAUGUS 30 owner Ben Smith for providing extra information.

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COMMENTS

  1. CAPE DORY 30C

    It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5

  2. Cape Dory 30

    Sailboats 21-30ft; Cape Dory 30 Our pick of these boats is a cutter-rigged late model with full-width galley and pedestal steering. By. Darrell Nicholson - Published: June 14, 2000 Updated: December 30, 2022. 14. ... The Cape Dory 30 does have a relatively efficient Constellation-type rudder, even if it is located about 2′ further forward ...

  3. CDSOA, Inc. -- CD30

    Built. 363. The Cape Dory 30 is available as either Cutter or Ketch. On the Cutter the mast is stepped further aft than on the Ketch, and a yankee jib with a self tending staysail complete her foretriangle. The Ketch uses the club jib with a well proportioned mizzen to balance her sailplan. Edson wheel steering is standard on both models, with ...

  4. Cape dory 30 mk ii

    The Cape dory 30 mk ii is a 30.5ft masthead sloop designed by Clive M. Dent and built in fiberglass by Cape Dory Yachts between 1987 and 1990. 31 units have been built. The Cape dory 30 mk ii is a heavy sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has a good righting capability if capsized.

  5. Cape dory 30c

    The Cape dory 30c is a 30.21ft cutter designed by Carl Alberg and built in fiberglass by Cape Dory Yachts between 1976 and 1987. 363 units have been built. The Cape dory 30c is a heavy sailboat which is slightly under powered. It is very stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a bluewater ...

  6. Cape Dory 30C

    Cape Dory 30C is a 30′ 2″ / 9.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Carl Alberg and built by Cape Dory Yachts between 1976 and 1987. Great choice! Your favorites are temporarily saved for this session. ... Sail Area / Displacement Ratio. A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher ...

  7. Cape dory 30k

    The Cape dory 30k is a 30.21ft masthead ketch designed by Carl Alberg and built in fiberglass by Cape Dory Yachts since 1976. The Cape dory 30k is a heavy sailboat which is slightly under powered. It is very stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a bluewater cruising boat.

  8. PDF Welcome to the Cape Dory Sailboat Owners Association's Home Page

    For more comprehensive information on the cape Dory 30 Midl — Send $25. for a VHS or Beta Home Video. Send $10. for a complete owners manual. Cape Dory Yachts, Inc., 160 Middleboro Ave., East Taunton, MA 02718. Telephone (508) 823-6776. ft. Draft: 4'6" Ballast: 4,200 lbs. Sail Area: 495 sq. Displacement: 10,500 lbs. Designer: Clive M. Dent ...

  9. CDSOA, Inc. -- Good Old Boat Review

    Phone: 800-325-3287. Triad Trailers, a former supplier of trailers to Cape Dory and its dealers, is still located in New Milford, Conn. They have custom trailer specs for the Typhoons and most Cape Dory sailboats up to 30 feet. Phone: 860-354-1146; email: [email protected].

  10. Cape Dory 30 Ketch Sail Data

    Sail Pack Kit - Standard Sunbrella® Color (13' Boom) Spinnaker Sock Kit 33' 1" to 36'. Foredeck Sail Bag Kit - Standard Sunbrella® Color (For Boats up to 30') Complete Sail Plan Data for the Cape Dory 30 Ketch Sail Data. Sailrite offers free rig and sail dimensions with featured products and canvas kits that fit the boat.

  11. Bluewater Sailboat

    Cape Dory 30 was initially constructed in 1976 using Carl Alberg's design as the basis. Its LOA is 9.21 and the hull is Full Keel

  12. Cape 30 (Hood)

    Derived from an earlier boat called the NAUGUS 30, originally built in 1967 by Naugus Fiberglass Industries, (Marblehead, MA) (6 built). The tooling was later sold to Cape Dory Yachts and renamed CAPE 30. Thanks to NAUGUS 30 owner Ben Smith for providing extra information. Suggest Improvements.

  13. Welcome to the Cape Dory Sailboat Owners Association's Home Page

    If you are currently an active member of the Cape Dory Sailboat Owners Association (CDSOA), as of 2022, you will be automatically renewed for 2023 - AT NO COST TO YOU. New Members for 2023 will be able to sign up for $25 on or about Jan 1, 2023 using the new system. If you can't wait until January, and who could blame you, this is a great group ...

  14. Cape Dory 30 boats for sale

    1990 Cape Dory 30 Flybridge. US$72,500. Moore Yacht Sales | Danvers, Massachusetts. Request Info. <. 1. >. * Price displayed is based on today's currency conversion rate of the listed sales price. Boats Group does not guarantee the accuracy of conversion rates and rates may differ than those provided by financial institutions at the time of ...

  15. CAPE DORY 30 MK II Detailed Review

    1 of 2. If you are a boat enthusiast looking to get more information on specs, built, make, etc. of different boats, then here is a complete review of CAPE DORY 30 MK II. Built by Cape Dory Yachts and designed by undefined, the boat was first built in 1987. It has a hull type of Long Keel and LOA is 9.3. Its sail area/displacement ratio 16.57.

  16. Cape Dory Yachts

    History. The company was founded in 1963 by Andrew Vavolotis in Bridgewater, Massachusetts.It began building a small fiberglass sailing dinghy, the Cape Dory 10. Later it moved to a facility in Taunton, Massachusetts, producing thousands of boats during the company's lifespan.After the dingy it introduced the popular Typhoon series of small sailboats, then cruising yachts ranging from 22 to 45 ...

  17. Cape Dory 30 MK II

    Cape Dory 30 MK II is a 30′ 6″ / 9.3 m monohull sailboat designed by Clive M. Dent and built by Cape Dory Yachts between 1986 and 1990. ... Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay). D: ...

  18. Cape dory 330

    The Cape dory 330 is a 33.04ft cutter designed by Carl Alberg and built in fiberglass by Cape Dory Yachts between 1985 and 1988. 27 units have been built. The Cape dory 330 is a very heavy sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a ...

  19. Cape Dory sailboats for sale by owner.

    Cape Dory used sailboats for sale by owner. Home. Register & Post. View All Sailboats. Search. ... 30' Cape Dory MS300 Bayfield, Wisconsin Asking $33,000. 50' Outremer Outremer 50 Standard Islamorada, Florida Asking $395,000. 35' Pearson Pearson 35 Mattapoisett, Massachusetts Asking $24,900.

  20. 1983 Cape Dory 30

    Seller's Description. Standard features. 1983 Cape Dory 30 with Trailer. The Cape Dory 30 with Cutter Rig is well balanced and extremely seaworthy. Cape Dorys are well built boats that hold their value over time. This boat has been stored in a barn on its trailer since it was decommissioned in 2013. Worm Gear Wheel Steering is almost bulletproof.