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Best Ericson Sailboats: A Complete Guide

Best Ericson Sailboats: A Complete Guide | Life of Sailing

Last Updated by

Daniel Wade

December 28, 2023

Sailboats that stand the test of time are often classics and loved by many sailors. One example is looking for the best Ericson sailboats, dating back to 1964.

Ericson had an up and down history but still managed to produce quality boats. So which ones were the best out of their lineup before their demise?

Out of the thousands of sailboats this company put together, there are a handful that stand out. The best Ericson sailboats consisted of the 26, 27, 29, 30, 32, 34, 35, 36C, E38, and 46 models. Each boat has a unique size and design, making them quite different from other brands at that time.

By 1999, the Ericson brand had been through enough over the years in terms of bankruptcy, ownership changes, and not keeping up with market demand by improving their boats. After poor sales that year, they decided to close shop for good, but still had plenty of produced sailboats to carry on the name.

According to experts in the sailing industry, Ericson sailboats were ahead of their time in the early 1970’s. They were a pioneer in the sailboat realm and built many classics that you can find for an affordable price today.

Table of contents

‍ Top 10 Ericson Sailboats

Through much debate, many sailors argue about which Ericson sailboat is the best. Many will claim a variety of factors influence trying to buy one today, such as price, condition, and size.

Depending on what suits your style of sailing and how you intend to use the boat will likely affect your decision on what is best. For Ericson, there are plenty of sizes and models to choose from.

1. Ericson 26

{{boat-info="/boats/ericson-26"}}

The 26 model offered a good size for sailors having a small crew or operating shorthanded with a fractional sloop. This one is just shy of 26 feet long and has about a five-foot draft. These were designed perfectly for day sailing or light cruising.

Bruce King helped develop this one, which turned out to be a stiff and fairly fast boat. Since it has self-tailing winches, and furling headsails, and you can control the mainsheet from the cockpit, it is easy to operate.

2. Ericson 27

{{boat-info="/boats/ericson-27"}}

The Ericson 27 debuted in 1971 with a displacement of 6,600 pounds and plenty of stability in the masthead sloop. The boat is roughly 27 feet long and sits about four feet in the water.

Many love this design since it navigated through choppy waters and responded to wind changes well. In addition, it can also sleep five comfortably.

There is enough sailing area to handle just about any condition and it is great for coastal cruising. If you have difficulty finding a crew or only want to be by yourself, this one makes it easy to handle all alone.

3. Ericson 29

{{boat-info="/boats/ericson-29"}}

Another masthead sloop rig type, the Ericson 29 is about 29 feet long with a draft of 4.33 feet. This one reached popularity among those that wanted to enjoy cruising and doing it at night.

There are sleeping accommodations for up to five people and plenty of room to move around. This design was similar to other popular models they produced, but not as easy to operate by yourself like the other shorter models.

4. Ericson 30

{{boat-info="/boats/ericson-30"}}

The Ericson 30 has an appeal like no other model in their lineup. They tweaked this design for about 10 years, making it one of the longer models they have played with.

It is nearly 30 feet long, has a fractional sloop, and sits nearly six feet in the water. It offers plenty of room to sleep five people and live aboard.

This is a great size to live on and learn about your boat without being too overwhelmed if you are new to that lifestyle. This one has become popular with sailors wanting to try that out.

5. Ericson 32

{{boat-info="/boats/ericson-32"}}

There were multiple designs of the Ericson 32 , with two of the most popular ones being designed by Bruce King in 1969 and 1985. The one in 1969 had a lot more problems, but they are both classics at 32 feet in length and a six-foot draft.

The later model was built for four years and they produced 700 of them. You will likely see many Ericson 32s with another number associated with it due to different features like the keel type or the optional tail rig.

Both the older and newer models of the 32s are attractive boats. If you are wanting the better of the two in terms of look, handle, and speed, you cannot go wrong with the latter model.

6. Ericson 34

{{boat-info="/boats/ericson-34"}}

The 34 footer installment was a good design with high-quality construction. This masthead sloop was nearly 35 feet and just over six feet of draft.

Depending on the year these were built, the exterior did not change that much in comparison to the interior. Out of all the boats that Ericson produced, they were most proud of the molding structure they used on this one.

The deck used a balsa core and had a plywood backing under the deck fittings to offer extra support. With the fiberglass hull, it provided one of the sturdiest options without compromising performance.

7. Ericson 35

{{boat-info="/boats/ericson-35"}}

The Ericson 35 was similar to the 34, with some slight differences. This one is nearly 36 feet and sits around 6.17 feet in the water.

This one was a good cruiser, with some models meant for casual sailing. It handled offshore sailing very well and had the classic look.

The interior made this boat easy to live on and accommodate over five people. Whether you are racing or living on it, this boat could do it all.

8. Ericson 36C

{{boat-info="/boats/ericson-36c"}}

The 36C was another beauty offered by Ericson, coming in at 36 feet and a five foot draft. This cutter rig is a great size, but you can still operate shorthanded if you do not have enough people on board.

This boat can do it all with coastal cruising, day sailing, and living full time on it. With its fiberglass hull, it is one of the lighter boats for its size. You could even race this if you wanted.

9. Ericson E38

{{boat-info="/boats/ericson-e38"}}

If you are looking for a larger Ericson boat, you cannot go wrong with the E38 . At nearly 38 feet long and 6.5 feet in the water, it offers the best of both worlds for living space and is easy to handle.

With the masthead sloop, you can expect top performance while cruising. This is another quality build that you can live aboard too.

10. Ericson 46

{{boat-info="/boats/ericson-46"}}

The largest boat that Ericson put together was the 46 , coming in just shy of 46 feet and about a seven-foot draft. With another masthead sloop design, you can rest assured the performance will be there.

There were actually two versions, one that is a racer and one that is a cruiser. Over a three-year period, only 20 of these were built. Depending on which one you find, there will be slight adjustments to the performance package.

Why Erickson Boats Are Popular

A lot of nautical miles have been made on Ericson boats over the years and for a good reason. They were quality boats that had a classic look, easy to handle, and were affordable.

Back in 1965, these were primarily cruising sailboats that later adapted to a hybrid of a family-oriented cruiser. Other models specifically included fin keels, excellent bustle, and spade rudders for better performance.

You will definitely find better modern boats that have more luxury, speed, and performance compared to something that was built in the 60s to the 80s. But for the price and nostalgia, it is hard to pass up a classic like Ericson.

What to Look for in Used Ericson Boats

As with any used boat, you need to thoroughly inspect it before trying to purchase one. This means going over the sails, mast, deck, engines, and anything else that catches your eye.

Potential Cracking

There have been some reports of very early models having cracks in the deck or mast. It is hard to blame them, since many boat designs have come a long way from over 40 years of being in the water. While very few have those reports, it is worth having it inspected by a professional before buying one.

Be Happy to Walk Away

Before committing to one, make sure that you know all of the histories before buying one. This will help you tremendously before you fall in love with its beauty.

Walking away and thinking it over for a few days can greatly help your buying process. You never know how urgent a seller might be, so you might end up getting a better deal on the price if you do decide to buy it after walking away.

Why an Ericson Sailboat Could Work for You

Ericson sailboats were unique luxury yachts that were built for speed. In addition, they had enough luxury on the inside that you could spend days or live on them for a period of time.

You typically can find one for a good price, which is why they are popular compared to other boats. With similar comparisons to other top-of-the-line sailboats, they make for a competitive option.

Luxury and Price

For those that want to buy an Ericson, they are all about luxury and performance for a good price . Since most models are over 40 years old, they are reasonably priced.

Depending on the size and model, almost all of the Ericson sailboats can be found within any budget. If you have experience fixing up boats, an Ericson can be worth its weight in gold.

Living Space

Customers that typically want an Ericson enjoy the amount of living space that it offers. On top of that, it provides the speed of comparable racers or cruisers that you will find today.

If you want a boat that allows you to live on to your own standards or race as you like, Ericson boats are the way to go. They offer the perfect blend of performance and comfort.

Stiff Builds

Ericson sailboats were strongly built and have a stiff feel to them. If a stiff boat is something you are after, the Ericson models are a good fit.

This means they have a different feel when sailing. If you were to buy one, it might take some getting used to if you have only handled newer boats.

Since Ericson boats have limited builds for each year that they were produced, you likely will not see them that often. They offer a nostalgic and classic look that only a few boats provide.

This creates a sense of urgency when buying. It is important to proceed with caution and check out the boat properly before you decide to jump on one.

The Rise and Fall of Ericson

Ericson was founded in 1963 and had a few molds to base designs of boats on to get started. After about a year and a half of poor production, they filed for bankruptcy since they were not hitting the mark with customers on their designs.

They were purchased in 1965 by Mark Pitman and Del Walton, who also hired Bruce King to begin designing their lineups. King is responsible for many of the best boats offered by Ericson, who even fine tuned some of his own creations a few years later.

Later in 1968, Pacific American Industries bought out Ericson and continued to produce similar models. CML group later purchased the brand and operated from 1971 to 1984.

Pacific Seacraft later bought the molds for various models, like Ericson 34 and 38 to move on with production. The brand continued to move forward with the same old designs without many changes.

Since the brand never pushed to market its products and management was lazy in trying to think of what the market wanted, sales dipped in the late 1990s. They never went boating shows or much of anything to promote their lineup. This caused Ericson to shut down for good.

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I've personally had thousands of questions about sailing and sailboats over the years. As I learn and experience sailing, and the community, I share the answers that work and make sense to me, here on Life of Sailing.

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  • Sailboat Reviews

A good step-up boat for a family on a tight budget; she may not be lavishly equipped, but she sails well.

Ericson Yachts has gotten a lot of mileage out of 35-footers over the years. Way back when in 1965, the first Ericson 35 was a typical CCA cruising boat, with a long keel and attached rudder. In 1969, the Ericson 35-2 was introduced. A Bruce King design—as was the original 35—the 35-2 was an up-to-date racer/cruiser, with swept-back moderate fin keel, pronounced bustle, and semi-balanced shallow spade rudder.

Ericson 35

The 35-2 stayed in production until 1982, when it was replaced by the 35-3, a larger, more modern boat. The 35-2 was a very successful design—about 600 were built over 13 years. She was not an IOR (International Offshore Rule) design, but the boat rated reasonably well under the new rule, and raced competitively at the local level.

Early IOR boats were little different from their late-CCA predecessors. It took designers several years to develop the types of ill-tempered boats that we now think of as IOR designs. This allowed wholesome production boats such as the Ericson 35 to be reasonably competitive at the local level.

The 35-2 is a good-looking boat. She has a very strong sheerline, powerful forward but not overly springy aft. The stern is hollow in profile, and the stem profile is just convex enough to look like a straight line.

The deckhouse is low in profile, despite the relatively low freeboard of the boat. Aesthetically, the only thing you can quibble with is the overly wide transom, which is fortunately not very high. A lot of current boats, of course, have transoms as wide as the Ericson 35’s, and they practically drag the bottom of the transom in the water. The temptation to use these ugly modern rear ends as billboards has proven overwhelming, resulting in a whole new industry in the last decade: transom art. In comparison to many of today’s production boats, the 35-2’s transom looks positively dainty.

Sailing Performance

With a typical PHRF rating of 150 to 156, the Ericson 35-2’s performance is respectable, but the boat is no hot rod. She’s about the same speed as a Ranger 33.

You need to put the concept of speed into perspective. Despite a lot of “harumpfing” about the poor sailing qualities of modern boats, the fact is that the average fin-keel production cruiser/racer built today is faster—a lot faster—than good boats designed 20 years ago, such as the Ericson 35-2. Appendages and rigs are more efficient, wider beam gives greater sail-carrying ability in a breeze, and hull shapes are frequently more refined, as long as they’re not overly influenced by the rating rules.

The newer Ericson 35-3, a slightly larger boat—she’s closer to 36′ than 35’—is about 30 seconds per mile faster than the 35-2. Same designer and builder, same concept; faster, more modern boat.

At the same time, an older production racer/cruiser such as the Ericson 35-2 is likely to be a lot faster than today’s straight “cruising” boat. The Crealock 37, for example, is about 20 seconds per mile slower than the Ericson 35-2. “Fast” and “slow” are pretty relative concepts, particularly when you’re moving at a slow jogging pace.

Despite a 43% ballast/displacement ratio, the 35-2 is not a particularly stiff boat. Owners give the boat average marks for stability, frequently commenting that stability is not a problem as long as sail is reduced appropriately. Frankly, this is true on almost any reasonably high-performance boat. We’d shy away from any boat that claims to be able to carry full sail upwind in 20 knots of breeze: the boat is likely to be grossly underpowered in light air.

The “average” stability stems from relatively narrow beam and relatively shoal draft, and is certainly not a major concern. We would recommend that you make a real effort to stow heavy equipment as low in the boat as possible—the boat’s vertical center of gravity is somewhere around the height of the tops of the settees. You should also set up the boat so that she can be reefed as easily as possible.

You’ll find both tiller and wheel steering on the 35-2. The cockpit is divided into two sections by a full-depth fiberglass bridgedeck which carries the mainsheet traveler. On wheel-steered models, the helmsman steers from the aft cockpit, and the sail handlers work from the forward cockpit. In tillersteered boats, the helmsman sits toward the forward end of the main cockpit.

For best weight distribution, the forward helmsman’s position is better, but it’s tough to keep sheet tenders and the helmsman out of each other’s way if they’re both in that forward cockpit. When racing tiller-steered boats, the mainsheet tender will sit in the aft cockpit.

The aft-mounted wheel does clean up the forward cockpit nicely, giving you very good lounging space.

Several owners have added 400 pounds or so of additional ballast, and report that it makes the boat slightly stiffer without noticeably slowing her down in light air. There is plenty of room in the keel shell to add some extra ballast if you want, but we’d live with the boat for awhile before increasing the ballasting. At the same time, we certainly wouldn’t remove ballast that had been added, as long as the boat trims to her lines fore and aft.

As designed, the main boom is very high off the deck, and has a pronounced droop at its after end. This is purely a device to reduce rated sail area for racing. Most boats never had droopy-clewed mains built, and we wouldn’t recommend one. Unfortunately, the high boom can make it really awkward for a very short crew member to furl the sail or hook up the main halyard.

Some 35-2s we have seen have no main boom topping lift. Instead, a short length of wire is seized to the backstay, and hooked into the end of the main boom. This is totally unseamanlike, and potentially very dangerous. This system should be removed immediately from any boat, and replaced either with a permanently-attached topping lift, or a fixed vang such as the Hall Quik Vang.

The double spreader rig—unusual on a boat this small when the 35-2 was introduced—allows for fair tight sheeting angles, particularly when you add in the narrow beam of the boat. The spar section itself is quite rugged—not something you can bend very easily. You wouldn’t want to bend the rig much in any case, since the mast is deck-stepped.

This is a good all-around sailing boat, with no particular quirks either upwind or downwind. The boat is not as fast on any point of sail as a newer, more racing-oriented design, but she’s a good, solid sailer.

Several owners mention substantial weather helm when reaching in heavy air, but there are few boats that don’t suffer from this. Ease the traveler down, flatten the main, and the helm should be reduced.

Construction

The Ericson 35-2 has an uncored hull built in a split mold. The two halves of the hull are glassed together with 11 laminations of mat and roving. There’s nothing wrong with building a hull in two halves as long as the joint is adequately reinforced, and this is the proper way to do it. Nevertheless, you should carefully examine the hull centerline on the outside of any boat you are considering, checking for cracks.

Several owners in our survey report that leaking shroud chainplates have caused significant rot in the main bulkhead. Keeping chainplates watertight is a constant battle, particularly on a boat that is sailed hard. Problems should show up in the form of discoloration or delamination of the main bulkhead where the chainplates pierce the deck.

Because this is one of those problems that can cause hidden damage, we would think twice about buying a boat that showed a significant amount of chainplate leakage. Unfortunately, the damage may be hidden under covering fascia at the edge of the bulkhead in the main cabin, so some disassembly and probing may be required.

The chainplates are stainless steel straps, with integral welded caps designed to be bedded to the deck. If the bolts holding the chainplates to the bulkheads are snugged up tight, and if the caps are thoroughly bedded in either polyurethane or polysulfide, you should be able to keep the chainplates dry. However, it may require a one-time disassembly and removal of the chainplates to properly bed and install them. Running a bead of compound around the edge of the chainplate caps won’t do the job.

The ballast is a lead casting dropped into the molded fiberglass keel. Examine the leading edge and bottom of the keel carefully for signs of hard grounding which may have damaged the keel shell.

Early 35-2s are equipped with gate valves on through hull fittings, rather than seacocks. Gate valves should immediately be replaced with more conventional tapered plug seacocks or ball valve seacocks, which can be firmly attached to the hull. Depending on the strength of the stem of the through hull fitting to support the shutoff valve—as you do with gate valves—is a risky proposition. We’ve seen plenty of through hull stems break off when you’re trying to open a stuck valve. You can end up with the valve in your hand and a big hole in the hull, which is a bit of a problem if your boat happens to be in the water at the time.

Ericson 35

Headsail sheet winches are mounted on fiberglass islands that are part of the deck molding. One owner reports that the plywood reinforcement in the top of the winch islands has rotted, the result of an improperly bedded winch. Plywood is frequently used by builders to add compression strength to laminates under hardware. No builder we know of takes the time to seal the core that is exposed when you drill for through-fastenings, so bedding is required.

Ericson 35-2 owners report an average incidence of hull blistering: about 30% have at least some hull blisters. Owners of two boats in our survey said their hulls were badly blistered.

Up until 1973, you could get any engine you wanted in the Ericson 35-2 as long as it was the Atomic 4 gasoline engine. After that a variety of diesels were offered as options until 1978, when a switch to diesels was made throughout the sailboat industry.

The most common diesel used in the boat in the mid-70s was the Westerbeke 4-91, a heavy 25-horse engine. But you’ll also see Volvo, Yanmar, and Universal diesels, as well as the Westerbeke Pilot 20.

There are two different engine placements. In early models, the Atomic 4 is tucked under the aft end of the dinette, in the main cabin. Owners give this installation high marks for engine accessibility, and it keeps the weight in the middle of the boat.

Boats with the two-settee main cabin have the engine mounted aft, under the companionway. The engine is far less accessible in this location.

Watch out for terneplate steel fuel tanks on older boats. These are a potential fire hazard, as they are very susceptible to rust-out. The fuel capacity of 22.5 gallons is adequate for any of the standard engines.

Several owners report having incorrectly-propped engines, although it is not clear whether these are original engines or replacements. With either the Atomic 4 or any of the optional diesels, the boat should do at least 5 1/2 knots under power in calm seas at normal cruising revs. Don’t count on using the stock 12 x 6 prop with anything but the Atomic 4. Likewise, the standard 3/4″ shaft is a little small in diameter for any engine bigger than the Atomic 4.

The original engine exhaust is a water jacket system, fabricated of steel. Pinholes eventually develop between the walls of jacketed systems. These can allow water back into the engine. We’d recommend replacing water jacket systems with a simple, modern waterlift.

Despite the narrow beam, the Ericson 35-2 has a reasonably roomy, well thought out interior. Actually, it has two somewhat different interiors.

Interior decor changed significantly over the years. Early boats have mahogany interiors: varnished mahogany bulkheads, mahogany trim, mahogany hull ceiling. Very late boats have the all-teak interiors that became the fashion by the late 70s.

The all-teak interior is very dark, although rich-looking. The best thing to do with the teak interior is to varnish it. Use matte-finish varnish for veneered surfaces such as bulkheads, and high-gloss varnish on all solid wood. Of course, this is a lot of work.

The main reason that builders went to teak interiors is that they save a fortune in finishing time and money. The higher cost of teak is more than offset by the time savings. To properly varnish the interior of this boat would take about 200 hours, while a coat of oil could be applied in two working days.

The mahogany interior of older 35-2s is substantially lighter in color then the teak interior. There is also more contrast between the face veneer of the plywood bulkheads and the darker color of the solid mahogany trim. The mahogany must be kept wellvarnished; an oil finish will not provide adequate protection for the mahogany surface.

If you’re tired of dark wood interiors, it would be fairly easy to paint out the varnished mahogany ply interior. Simply sand the surface to remove all trace of gloss, then paint with a low-luster finish such as Interlux #221 Cabin Enamel. Leave the solid wood trim varnished for a nice contrast.

Painting out teak veneer surfaces is more of a problem, since the teak is likely to be oiled. Paint adheres poorly to teak in the best conditions, and very poorly to oiled teak.

All models have a conventional forward cabin: Vberths, storage shelves over, drawers and bins below. The 25-gallon stainless steel water tank is also mounted under the berth. This is an inadequate water supply for a boat with five berths that is to be used for anything more than weekend cruising. Several owners report adding additional tanks. Don’t add them up forward, as it would change the trim of the boat.

Thanks to fine forward sections, the foot of the Vberth is extremely narrow. Several owners have built inserts to turn these berths into a double, but the job is complicated by a cutout at the head of the starboard berth, a feature designed to add elbow room.

In port in good weather, ventilation in the forward cabin is good, thanks to an opening overhead hatch. In rain, it’s not so good: no cowl vents.

Older boats have padded vinyl hull liners forward; newer boats have teak ceiling strips.

The head compartment is reasonably roomy, and has good storage. There’s a cabinet under the sink, and a locker outboard. There’s also a large, tall locker next to the toilet, to which the forward lower shroud chainplate is bolted. Check for signs of leaking around this chainplate.

Ventilation in the head leaves a lot to be desired, but could be improved by a larger cowl vent and a small overhead hatch.

A shower sump was standard, but not all boats were equipped with pressure water. If you install a shower, don’t forget to provide a sump pump. You don’t want your shower to drain directly into the bilge.

Both main cabin layouts are roomy and comfortable. Bruce King and Ericson wisely decided not to try to get a pilot berth into a relatively narrow boat, opting for more elbow room and a little storage outboard of the settees.

A settee stretches along the starboard side of the main cabin. The settee is pushed fairly far forward to get more room in the aft galley. A cutout in the starboard forward bulkhead provides a footwell, making the settee long enough to use as a berth.

There is a narrow shelf behind the settee—a good place to store books.

In the two-settee layout, there’s a drop-leaf table just off centerline, allowing comfortable dinner seating for four on the two settees.

The dinette layout has both plusses and minuses.

The fixed table can be lowered to form a big double berth, but in our experience, this type of arrangement is a nuisance. You need a big cushion to fit over the table, and that cushion has to be stowed somewhere when it’s not in use. The multiple cushions required to create the dinette double never seem to fit together quite right, resulting in a berth that is big enough, but rarely comfortable.

In addition, the offset dinette table is too far away to allow use of the starboard settee for dining, so the dinette is it as far as company for dinner goes. It seats four in reasonable comfort, but as in most dinettes, you end up playing footsie with your dinner partners a lot of the time, which may or may not be a bad idea.

In the dinette layout, the engine is shoe-horned under the aft seat. This was fine with the Atomic 4, but it’s hard to fit a diesel in the same space.

It’s also pretty hard to effectively sound isolate an engine mounted in the middle of the main cabin, but modern insulation materials can help a lot.

Ericson owners are divided on the merits of the two main cabin arrangements. The midships engine is easier to service, but you sacrfice a lot of walkingaround room in the main cabin. Look at both layouts before making a decision.

The aft half of the main cabin is virtually identical in both interiors. To port, there is a good-sized chart table, with enough space outboard to mount a reasonable array of goodies. The huge quarterberth forms the seat for the nav station.

To starboard is an L-shaped galley. Considering the vintage of the boat, the galley is quite good. There’s room for a three-burner gimbaled stove with oven (though you’ll find only alcohol stoves unless someone’s done a retrofit). Aft of the stove is a decent working surface, with big drawers below. A single deep sink is mounted in the counter just below the companionway, with a big locker beneath.

The icebox is tucked back into a corner, but it’s reasonably accessible, if a little small for extended cruising.

Both the battery selector switch and the electrical panel are mounted on the bulkhead aft of the galley. That puts them close to the battery, but the nav station would be a more logical location for electrical system management.

Main cabin ventilation is provided by a big overhead hatch, but there’s no provision for ventilation in bad weather.

Surprisingly, the cabin sole throughout the boat is the molded fiberglass floor pan, with teak ply inserts. Compared to the finish in the rest of the boat, this is an unattractive detail, smacking of cost-cutting. Finish in general is of good production boat quality.

Detailing is only average.

The interior of the 35-2 is not in any way innovative, but it is roomy, decently finished, and well thought out. There has been no attempt to cram in a superfluous number of berths—if you ignore the dinette double—and there is reasonable privacy for a family.

Conclusions

The Ericson 35-2 is a wholesome family cruising boat. She sails well, and has enough exterior teak trim to look nice if you want to go to the trouble to keep it up. The Ericson molded fiberglass toerail is not particularly attractive, but it’s a lot less maintenance than a teak toerail.

These were not lavishly-equipped boats. A lot of things that we take for granted today—multiple batteries, hot and cold water, a shower, self-tailing winches, double lifelines—were either optional or not available, particularly on early models. Some production shortcuts on older boats—steel fuel tanks, gate valves, small water tank—should be corrected at once, if they haven’t already been replaced.

Since a lot of these boats have been raced, you may find a 35-2 with up-to-date sailhandling equipment, bigger winches, and good sails. Because of big differences in age, engine, equipment, and condition, prices range from bargain-basement to close to newboat prices for entry-level boats of the same size.

This would be a good boat to move up to for a family with two children and a tight budget. The boat sails well enough to do a little club racing if you’re so inclined, and it’s the type of boat that serves as a reasonable teaching platform for older kids interesting in racing bigger boats. Unlike many modern cruisers, she’s not a clunky sailing houseboat.

The relatively shoal draft will allow you to get into places inaccesssible to boats with a deep fin keel, making the boat suitable for areas such as Florida, the Chesapeake, and the Gulf of Mexico. With a little thoughtful upgrading and after a careful survey, you could do some limited offshore sailing—trips like Florida to the Bahamas—while you develop confidence in the boat, and in yourself.

RELATED ARTICLES MORE FROM AUTHOR

Great article!

As you mention “well thought out” I find my favorite thing about my 1972 E35-2. Many boats will have a U-shaped kitchen area or a dedicated nav station, and though these might look good in photos they wind up taking a tremendous amount of space that doesn’t get used a lot.

The kitchen only takes up a few feet while providing a great deal of space to cook, and the seat for the nav station is the rear quarter berth.

We turned our dinette into a large lounging area and truly enjoy how roomy the interior is visually. The cut out shelf in the starboard bulkhead gives visual depth appearance to the interior almost creating the illusion that the walls are very thick. As you mentioned in your article the water damage should be assessed for all chain plate areas because the wood that is used in the bulkhead is not marine grade but instead hardwood interior ply. If any delamination is present they must be replaced. Since most of the vertical tension from the chain plates is within the 1st 1.5ft from the hull towards the centerline, we were able to replace the bulkhead for the first 18 inches leaving the rest of the bulkhead intact using a dovetail joint and fiberglassing both sides.

With new marine grade plywood and fiberglass on both sides and penetrating Epoxy in the plywood, our 50 year old boat is ready to make a run for Hawaii with new Bomar and Lewmar hatches, along with other refits.

Oh and she sails hands free at 20 degree to weather under full sail without need for an auto pilot, or locked helm. Bruce designed a boat that adores the sea in all conditions.

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1967 Ericson 26

  • Thread starter Firefly15028
  • Start date Jan 12, 2007
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For What It's Worth Dept. I bought a '77 Cape Dory 25 that was sitting on a storage trailer. It had been sailed from Seattle to Alaska and then down to San Diego. It weights around 2 tons or a bit more. After $1,800 getting the trailer legal and restrenghtened, I brought it home to totally redo her. The original survey cost me around $200. We worked on her for almost two years. Did everything to her..I mean everything. It's a solid boat and could probably go just about anywhere. My wife and love to sail it. She's 5'2" and I'm 5'11" so in recent months I've decided to get a larger boat with stand up head room. She can get around pretty good inside but it's getting a bit too much for me. It's great for a for few days but that's it for us. Sometimes I just like to sit in the covered cockpit (we have a boom tent) abd just talk with some of our live aboard neighbors. It' s in a slip and about once a year I'll bring her home to upgrade a few items, etc. Can't beat it. Ericsons are pretty good boats but as in everything, a sailboat is full of compromises. I can't remember if they have keel bolts or not but I'd sure check that out and the stringers, also. Mine happemed to have the ballast encapsulated (which is what I was looking for at the time.) I bought an old '94 3/4 ton Chevy pickup, 4x4 with a 350 to haul it. Does o.k. and the 4 wheel drive really comes in handy when trying to get out of a slippery boat ramp. I made a homemade rig to raise the mast. Takes at least two people. Work on the boat can be seen at http://svGladysErzella.photosite.com The Don Casey book was used constantly in the restoration as were a few others. I, too, had to use a smaller engine as the PO had a 9.9 HP but it was a two stroke. We can't buy those in CA. So I went with a 5 Honda with alternator and long shaft. You're lucky in that you don't have to pull it up each time to flush it out. I don't know about insurance as I sent the original survey (which showed two problems) and then a lot of photos showing the completed repairs and the refit. Also, there's a dye I used with the surveyor to check the standing rigging. We found some of the fittings with almost microscopic cracks. I just redid all the rigging and went one size over standard. Hope some of this helps. Repairs, modifications, upgrades can all be done by yourself rather than paying someone else. It's the only way to really learn all the stuff on a boat. Hope this helps. Thanks  

Firefly15028

Re: For What It's Worth Dept. Thanks for writing, Mexicoman. Your Cape Dory sounds great. That is one of the positives we've found in getting into this: There are a LOT of 25, 26-ft sailboats out there for sale for reasonable prices. If we don't get the one we've looked at so far, there will be another available sooner or later. Hmmm. "Stand-up Headroom." That's something I hadn't thought of. I'm 6'2", and my wife is 5'4. But that's okay; she'll probably do fine and I'll have to duck until we are experienced enough that we, too, are ready for something larger. I appreciate your comments about Ericson boats, and everything I've read seems to agree. Yes, I understand the ballast is encapsulated on the Ericson, which is why I want to haul this one out and look real close for signs of grounding, if we ever get ready to actually buy it. Well, I guess I'd want to anyway. I have a 1987 GMC 4WD Jimmy with a 350, and I'm hoping it will do the job. I've put $11K into it since I bought it for $2400, and that's why our credit cards are maxed out and we can't buy the boat right off the bat. I'm hoping it doesn't nickel and dime us to death -- just yesterday I discovered the bolt holding the bracket for the kickdown linkage to the transmission has sheared off, and I have to figure out some way to extract it and lock that bracket down or the kickdown won't work and the rebuilt tranny will get fried. Someone else asked about the method of stepping the mast on this Ericson 26 we're looking at, and I don't know yet. I'm sure we'll have to figure a way to do it on whatever boat we buy, and it will be easier if we can do it without a crane. You can be sure I will follow your link and examine each photograph with a magnifying glass to learn all I can about repairs and restoration. I don't know if you read other messages, but I just bought the Don Casey book "Inspecting the Aging Sailboat" today, and will eventually buy his big book about repairs. How am I lucky that I don't have to pull the outboard up each time to flush it out? Oh, I see: You're in San Diego and in salt water. Yeah, that would make a difference! We sailed with friends of ours on a Hunter 34' out of Harbor Sailboats at San Diego for our anniversary a couple of years ago, and just loved it. We also slept overnight in it that night, and had to repel boarders in the middle of the night. (Not as exciting as it sounds; we found out the next day the "boarders" were the owner and his son, who knew the boat was rented until the next morning but when he found it in its slip he thought it was done and decided to get a jump on taking it out the next day. Some stuff hit the fan over that.) Yours is a '77 Cape Dory, which is ten years newer than the Ericson we are looking at. I don't know what the cutoff age is for insurance, but the '67 is apparently uninsurable. I hope I don't have to replace the standing rigging right away, we couldn't afford it. We need to set up a reserve fund for the boat for a couple of years before we need to do that. As you say, doing it myself is the way to learn everything about the boat, and that's the way I want to go about it. Thanks for your comments!  

Mast Raising Forgot to mention how we settled on our mast raising system. Our mast has steps and now roller furling so it's heavy but not unmanageable. It's awkward because of its length, also. I got a ten foot piece of 2" pipe. At one end I drilled holes and have four eyebolts, one for each direction, installed. I got a huge U Bolt (one that would fit around the mast base and we bolted a pipe base on to it. Then we screwed a one foot piece of pipe into that. Now slide the U Bolt around the mast base. Insert the pipe. Attach the forestay to one of the eyes and the trailer winch strap to the other opposite side eyebolt. The two eyebolts on either side we now run small linked chain from these points down to the aft chainplates. With one person walking the mast up, the other person cranks the trailer winch and slowly raises the mast upright. At the mast base we installed a two pin hinge plate so all we do now is slide in the forward pin and lock it with a ring. We plug in the wires and tighten all the stays. Volia! We are done. Must keep an eye out for hang ups and stays getting hung up on things, though, during the raising process. Not an original idea, just a modified one after we watched a lot of MacGregor and Potter owners raise theirs.  

Re: Mast Raising Hmmm! I have to admit I'm not visualizing it very well. Would you happen to have any pictures? This is something I'm going to have to deal with sooner or later, so I appreciate your help.  

Observations This has been an interesting thread, and reminds me of some of the questions I had (and their answers) when I bought my '76 E23 five years ago. Some relevant points, in no particular order: 1. The boat is 40 years old. It WILL have some mainenance issues, but all boats do. Just be ready for a few surprises. Ericson's were/are very solid boats, but they competed in the market just like the others and tried to hold down their costs (though not to the extent that the "Chevvies and Fords" did.) 2. The boat and the trailer will weigh more than your tow vehicle. The rule of thumb is don't try to tow something bigger than you are. It is not an issue of power, it is about weight and safety. 3. Check the shackle bolts, pins, etc., before you try to tow, especially if it has been sitting for a while. They can corrode to almost nothing, still look OK, then let go at a bad time. Easy to check - cheap insurance. 4. I suspect the E26 mast is deck stepped. I've seen an E25 mast raised by two people - we (two) regularly raise mine with two guys, and I know a guy who does his alone, but it is a job. It is definitely not something you want to do each time out - in other words, this boat is NOT a trailersailer. It is a trailerable sailboat (just barely). Launching/recovering is something you won't want to do more than once a year - trust me. 5. If you install a mast base hinge and make a bridle, you can probably use the boom for a gin pole and raise the mast using a sheet winch - that is how the 23 and the 25 do it, and they have big, heavy masts. 6. You might get to know some other sailors in the area and just have them look the boat over - they might notice some things you haven't, and at least they could give a general opinion of the boat. It won't be an official survey, but it will only cost you the price of a lunch. And don't expect a survey to be gospel - their quality spans a wide range. A friend of mine who is a well-known delivery skipper has a low opinion of surveyor's findings, based on many years' experience of dealing with them. This is not a blanket condemnation - just a comment that they are human and can miss something that later can be a problem. 7. The price is reasonable for a boat of that age, but 4 hp is inadequate for moving that boat in anything but calm waters. If you end up having to buy another motor for a couple thou, suddenly the investment is much higher. 8. People who don't know sails will look at one and say it is in great condition, when actually it might rate a 3 on a 10 scale. Any scrap of cloth will make the boat move, but if it turns out the sails are poor to marginal, then maybe you are looking at buying other ones in a year or two. Sails for that boat will range from 800 bucks for a couple of so-so used ones to $2000 - $5000 for new. Just something to think about. And it will be very hard to find someone who has used sails for a '67 E26 for sale. 9. Because you will probably have to keep it in a slip, figure in that cost. It will make it much more convenient to take an afternoon sail, and when sailing becomes less convenient, you tend not to go as much. Sailing loses some of its luster when you go not because you want to, but because you feel you have to get some value back out of the boat. DO NOT figure on launching this boat for an afternoon's (or even a weekend's) sail. You might do it once - you won't do it twice.  

Thanks! I've read your suggestions, and I really appreciate it. I've been doing some research on towing issues on my own, and I've learned that you are right. I have to go back to work now, but I will respond more fully this evening. Thanks, Bob!  

Encouraging What an encouraging letter! Thank you, Randy. I'm pretty well convinced that if we had the cash on hand, we'd buy this boat in a minute (well, after a haul-out and close personal inspection, anyway). Maybe we will eventually anyway; the owners don't seem to be in any major rush to sell it. Thanks again!  

Randy Johnson

Oh, and About Power... I would not dismiss the four horse as inadequate. I was out in 20 knot winds yesterday and did not feel underpowered, even moving straight into a head wind with only about 40% power applied I was still easily able to make way! This is from a 1962 Evinrude 2 stroke that I have got to assume was the original power plant. I had the exact same model and year on the Venture that I sold and I never felt nearly as sure of its performance. The reason that I attribute is the nearly perfect position of the long shaft outboards thrust line with the inboard motor well on this vessel. It may chew up a tiny bit of cockpit space when it is mounted with the cover up but I think that it is a fine match for the boat when the stinkin' thing must run. The big bonus is that it stows nicely in the port cockpit locker when it is not in use. Galvanic corrosion on the 15 never would have been a problem if the previous owner had been able to easily lift the old motor off and stow it right next to where he needed it. But that engine was such a beast that you had to pull the screws out of the hinges for the compartment to clear the back stay to lift the motor out. Time well tell but I like the little old 6 hp and find it easy on the back and plenty fast enough! Randy  

Four-horse Well, that's interesting! Do you reckon it has anything to do with the Ericson hull being more easily driven?  

That's easy Ericson leans a little more toward preformance than the Venture. Venture is more the generic "introduce you to boating" type boat. Ericson will sometimes sacrifice a little interior room in favor of quality and performance but if you are happy with the amenities you're gunna love the boat!  

Love the boat I sort of fell in love with the boat when I first saw it. But for lack of ready cash, I pine away. Well, sooner or later I'll get the credit cards paid down and then I'll see what I can do. I really appreciate all the informative comments and suggestions everyone has made. Thanks!  

More Power! Randy, it sounds like you really fell into a good deal, and I am delighted to know that another old Ericson has found the right owner. I have to take mild issue with your comments on necessary horsepower, based on my experience with the E23 and E25 boats. There is a world of difference between the power necessary to push a boat in relatively mild conditions vs. relatively strong adverse conditions. This fall I motored my E23 over to the marina where our club races are based. The winds at that time were sustained over 20 kts and gusts occasionally touched 40, and it was right on the nose for most of the 5 mile journey. My boat, with a strong 5 hp 2-stroke Mercury, was able to move OK, but it took me about 20% longer to get there than it usually does, and when a blast would hit me, the boat almost stopped dead in the water. When I bought the boat it had a 7.5 Evinrude twin (70s vintage) that had noticeably more power, but the boat had been sailed in Chesapeake Bay and I suspect the owner was real glad to have that extra margin. I opted for the Merc just to get the extra weight off the transom (obsessive racer syndrome). Most outboard E25s run a 9.9 and are glad to have it. My brother-in-law's Columbia 28 had a 9.9 and it was very marginal - in chop, with a headwind, it was really a chore to make barely adequate headway. By the way, that motor was mounted in a well, and the fumes it generated were considerable - enough to cause it to run poorly sometimes. We used to prop the cover open just to ventilate it better, and planned to install a positive blower system to air out the well. What I am saying here is that you want your motor to be able to handle the worst conditions you might see (because sooner or later, it will be put to that test), not the best. When you are trying to keep the boat off a rocky lee shore in strong winds with the sun going down and an adverse current is not a good time to find that the motor isn't quite up to the task. Many sailors take their motors for granted and don't give their maintenance and condition much thought, because they don't use them much. But when you think about it, the motor is one of the components you want to be most trustworthy and bulletproof. Ask other sailors in your area with similar sized boats what they consider to be adequate power - it might be that 4 is OK where you are, but I can tell you it is rare to hear a sailor say, "My motor has more power than I need," and very common to hear, "I really could use more power than what I have." Randy, I have sailed a number of times on my brother's Mac 21, mostly on Lake Tahoe. It is a true trailer/sailer - a wonderful boat for weekends exploring different waters, convenient to trailer, rig, and sail. He took it on multi-day trips in the San Juans and north of there - something I would not feel comfortable doing. Your E26, however, was made for such activity and you will love her even more as you get to know her. Check the current issue of Sailing magazine - there is an article on the Ericson 23 in it. Firefly, the saying is "Don't fall in love with the boat 'til after the deal is done," but it is hard not to love an Ericson. You will almost never hear an owner say bad things about his boat - except for Fred F on this site. He had a 29 with a few problems and consequently speaks ill of the brand. I was looking at a Hunter on a trailer the other day that is the same size as my boat - a 23.5 - and a guy came up and oil-canned the hull with the heel of his hand in several places. Try that anywhere on an Ericson. Case closed.  

Power I will defer to experience here as I am truly learning this boat day by day. I hear exactly what you are saying Bob and it makes a lot of sense. I may well rebuild the lower unit on the 15 or do something else to get more power for sustained motoring. I live two blocks off the lake and now I work on it. I know my little section of the world pretty well and I am probably a little complacent about it. I also know that the world outside of Lake Washington is a different and more dynamic setting than the comparitively sheltered waters that I have sailed here. My observations are probably skewed by my excitement for the new boat. That said, I really feel like the hull design and motor placement make efficient use of the available power. Under sail and under power, the boat moves nicely! Randy  

Rob Hessenius

Randy Randy- Congradulations on your new boat! It sounds as though you fell into a sweet deal. To explore the destinations your boat has been will be priceless. I don't want to seem like a know it all, but I think it will be wise to fix up the 15 hp motor. This will give you all the power that you will need. I have a 8 hp Mercury on my E-25 and have wished for more. I'm on an inland lake that gets pretty windy, but I only deal with 3-4 chop waves. My good friend has a Pearson 25 with a 6 hp Mariner and when its blowing he needs every bit just to head into the wind to raise the Main. If the helmsman falls off of the wind, around you go. The first couple of times I loaded up my shorts when this happened. Yes, you can get by with the 6, but you have a 15 that needs a little work. Just keep the repairs of 15 near the top of your to-do list. I pretty much guarentee there will be a real crappy day with your 15hp driving you and you will say, thank you. Rob Hessenius  

I Got The Power Thank you Rob. I headed the advice of the experienced and am now powered with a nice Merc 15 OB. (The motor gods smiled and a very good friend pulled his low hour engine out of storage and offered it to the cause -what a guy!) It pushes everything along at 6.5 knots and doesn't even have to get very loud do it so I think it is a good match. It is also lighter and so much more compact than the original Johnson 15 that came with the boat that I can lift it in and out of the well easily. There is room behind the companionway for the evinrude 6 to be stowed as a backup. That should be more engine than I can ever hope to need! I think I am good to go.  

E26 1967 Re-reply: (Me too!) It sounds great, Raul! Sure, I'd like to see pictures. Send them to svfirefly AT cox DOT net. Thanks!  

Rob Hessenius

Raul Awesome interior, I would love to see the exterior. Rhessenius AT new dot rr dot com I hate to put my email for trollers. Rob Hessenius  

Nice Boat Raul! Very nice Raul! We have similar looking interior layouts but yours really sets the standard for how beautiful it can be! I really like the teak and holly floors. Did you do the work on the floors? Can you elaborate on the process? I'd also love to see more pictures. Email for me is [email protected] Thanks, Randy  

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Ericson 35 1

The ericson 35 1 is a 34.75ft masthead sloop designed by carl alberg/bruce king and built in fiberglass by ericson yachts (usa) between 1967 and 1969., 45 units have been built..

The Ericson 35 1 is a heavy sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a bluewater cruising boat. The fuel capacity is originally small. There is a very short water supply range.

Ericson 35 1 sailboat under sail

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  • General Ericson Forums
  • Cruising & Racing

ericson 26 circumnavatigation!

  • Thread starter brienmac
  • Start date Jul 8, 2002
  • Tags circumnavatigation
  • Jul 8, 2002

Brent Wright

Please contact admin..

I have been told that the early Ericson 26's handle very well in rough weather. I too own a 1967 Ericson 26, hull #64 and am new to sailing. I am looking forward to hearing about your progress, Keep us posted.  

Landlocked Capn

  • Aug 6, 2002

Be prepared to puke...a boat that small, Ericson or not, is gonna be a rough ride. Learn your lessons well, or we'll be reading about your rescue, if you're lucky.  

Geoff Johnson

Fellow ericson owner.

As I recall, Tania Aebi's boat was a 26 foot Contessa and she had almost no sailing experience at the outset.  

Sean Engle

Your Friendly Administrator

  • Jan 27, 2003

Read about Ericson 35 circling the globe. Hi Brien, First of all, the best of luck to you. And by absorbing as much "knowledge" as you can before you set out, you may offset some of the lack of experience you speak of. Teddy Seymour circled the globe in 1986-87 with a 1966 Ericson Alberg 35. He had no experience either, but read his story and note his "beefing up" of that already "bullet proof" hull. http://www.indigowaves.com/seymour  

Martin King

Martin King

Sustaining member.

The smartest thing you can do in terms of boat prep is a close examination of the hull laminate with a moisture meter. If not already done, a barrier coat should be applied over a DRY laminate to arrest the osmosis and extend the life of the hull. One of the best technical publications I have found is put out by the Gougeon Bros. #002-650. This covers gelcoat blistering, diagnosis, and repair procedures and is available through most chandleries. Martin  

Loren Beach

Loren Beach

O34 - portland, or.

  • Jan 28, 2003
Originally posted by Martin King The smartest thing you can do in terms of boat prep is a close examination of the hull laminate with a moisture meter. If not already done, a barrier coat should be applied over a DRY laminate to arrest the osmosis and extend the life of the hull. One of the best technical publications I have found is put out by the Gougeon Bros. #002-650. This covers gelcoat blistering, diagnosis, and repair procedures and is available through most chandleries. Martin Click to expand...
  • Jan 29, 2003

Geoff, My reply was targeted to his vintage ericson (1967) and his plans to go offshore with it. A close exam of the laminate with a moisture meter will help asses the condition. If hydrolysis has started in a polyester hull, it's strength has been compromised and measures should be taken to arrest it. Keep in mind that hydrolysis can occur without the appearance of blisters. Not all boats will suffer with blister formation and there are many variables that determine this. There isn't room here for a treatise on the subject which is why I referenced the G.B. guide for any one who might be interested in getting informed on the subject. As we now know, gelcoat and polyester laminating resins are not waterproof, and will allow water to permeate the laminate. An epoxy barrier coat will stop this from occuring, however it must be applied over a DRY laminate. Recently we saw a vintage 70's E39 try to tear herself in two after some rough weather crossing the Atlantic. There was no evidence that the hull had been compromised until she started taking on water, fortunately close enough to land! This boat had no barrier coat as far as we could determine, just plain old gelcoat, and I do mean old. Both my dad and I own vintage Ericson's and have barrier coated them. In my case, I plan on keeping this particular boat for a long time and the trouble and expense for me was warranted. Martin King  

Then it's a bit of a puzzle because a barrier coat is needed only if the hull is absorbing water and if it is absorbing water then by definition it cannot be dry enough to apply a barrier coat. It would seem that applying epoxy to a hull that is not "dry" would tend to seal in the moisture. I have read that once water gets into the laminate, it can never really be dried (something about the water molecules reacting with uncured resin to form molecules that are too large to get back throught the gelcoat). Then there is the problem of water in the interior of the boat, i.e. the bilge. So I'm pretty much at the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" stage. I suppose if I were going on a world cruise with the boat in the water for a year or two (instead of on the hard for six months of every year), or had a blister problem I would feel differently.  

Again, I would refer you to the tech manual I mentioned. This details how to properly dry out a laminate. The boat must sit out of the water for a minimum of 3 months or longer. In my case, the boat sat out for over a year in La Paz, baking in the Mexican sun. In my dad's case, the boat sat in a heated building for about 6 months. In some cases, you must remove the gelcoat and possibly some laminate before drying will take place. The question isn't if your boat is absorbing water, but how much and at what rate. Keep in mind that boats built out of polyester have a useful lifespan, that the stuff does not last forever. You may not be able to get it back to totally dry, but you must pull down the moisture content to an acceptable level which is where the moisture meter readings over time are so helpful. Epoxy barrier coating techniques have been developed to help stave off the inevitable decline in the boats lifespan. Hydrolysis is insideous, and may not be noticed until the boat is really stressed-like getting knocked around in big seas a la Maverick, and then before you know it, it's too late. In your case, if the bottom is blister free and she's out of the water 6 months a year, I wouldn't worry about it. If you plan on keeping the boat, I would just monitor the situation, perhaps have the yard do readings for you. On a related note, a plug was drilled in Whitehawk a while back. This was one of my dad's earliest big boats done in wood/epoxy. She had been in the water year 'round for over 18 years-much of it in the tropics. Guess what? The wood was bone dry-it looked like it had been taken from a brand new boat! Martin PS-to check out Whitehawk and other big boats go to www.bkyd.com  

Sustaining Partner

  • Oct 3, 2003

Well, good luck. I would suggest 2 things to look very hard at: 1). Cockpit drains. Increase the diameter of the hoses so that the cockpit will drain as fast as possible-shoot for under 2 minutes. It WILL get flooded, and the boat is very vulnerable when the cockpit is full of water. This 2 minute test is a requirement for offshore racing yachts. 2). Cabin hatch boards: Reinforce the framework with at least a 2-3" metal plate bolted through the frame to keep the hatchboard from blowing into the cabin when hit by a wave. You should also make a VERY heavy duty, 1 piece hatchboard for use in rough weather. You also need a way to lock the sliding hatch closed from the inside  

  • Oct 20, 2003

Martin, I ran across this article which confirms what you say: http://www.zahnisers.com/repair/blister/blister1.htm I was thinking of barrier coating my boat, but it seems that barrier coats on an old boat will aggravate any incipient problem. Moreover, I haven't found a way to remove bilge water. BTW, I would love to know which model your father is sailing.  

  • Oct 21, 2003

Geoff, There was a very interesting article this month in Professional Boatbuilder Mag on using infrared imaging to map areas of water entrapment in a 15 year old boats hull. Guided by the map, they were able to target areas on the hull and pull a vacuum where needed to dry it out and then repair the core/laminate before barrier coating. Instead of a total core replacement, they were able to provide accurate, cost effective repairs which they verified with core samples. Regarding the article you referenced, it's not bad but I disagree with some of it. Example: not removing through hulls because of cost? If you are doing a peel job like they reccommend and spending thousands for the work, what's a few through hulls in the big scheme? Also, epoxy is tricky to work with? Au contraire, I have found epoxy very easy to work with especially if you buy a machine that meters it out. And what about the comment that you can only expect to get 5 years out of such a barrier coat. I mentioned >Whitehawk in an earlier post. She's 25 years old and going strong! By the way, these yards all want to peel it off, but I'm here to tell you that you will never get that bottom fair like the day it came out of the mold. The only way is to template the hull and it's a rare boat (usually racers) that get this kind of treatment. One last thought about epoxy. They just splashed Scheherezade. She's a 150 foot cold molded ketch and guess what resins were used to build her? West System baby all the way! Check her out www.hodgdonyachts.com. Regarding my dad's personal boat. He's had many. For a while he had a very nice E 36 C. Right now he's trying to finish up the Frog Princess-a 21 foot clipper bowed cold molded beauty meant for day sailing and overnighting. He has drawn a 30 foot version of her for Pocket Yachts. I believe there is a link on the Pacific Seacraft web site if you want to check it out or go to www.pocketyachts.com Regards, Martin  

Hull condition Martin - I have enjoyed your input in the past and am following this particular discussion closely. Having done an extensive blister repair job some years ago on my non-Ericson, using West materials and info including the G Bros booklet, I'm somewhat familiar with what is involved and would echo your cautions that it is far better to stay ahead of the problem by drying out the boat and barrier-coating it than to find out later you have blisters. At the time I did my bottom job a buddy who had an E25 told me he didn't need to worry about his boat, as it was an Ericson, implying superior build quality would obviate the need for blister concern. A couple of years later, when his boat was pulled, it was riddled with blisters. I've heard of boats that were sailed in the Pacific on a single tack for several weeks that developed blisters above the waterline in that short time in the topside area that stayed wet. My question for you is this: was Ericson using the same basic materials and layup schedule as the others when the boats were produced? I believe my E23 is pretty stout, and its construction quality appears to me to be better than most mass produced boats of that period in that size range. But were the resins and other materials essentially identical to the competition at that time? I see frequent blistering in boats from the 70's that are left in the water, and have heard that much of it is caused by inferior resins used to cut costs when the oil embargo hit about '74. Does that apply to Ericson as well? I don't seem to see too many of them developing blisters, at least not as many as other manufacturers.  

I've heard of boats that were sailed in the Pacific on a single tack for several weeks that developed blisters above the waterline in that short time in the topside area that stayed wet. Click to expand...

Inactive Member

  • Oct 22, 2003

Geoff; As Martin stated, the Gougeon Bros. publish probably the best information for the layman on osmotic blistering. Trust me when I say that I have had some experience with that. I have done a complete bottom job on a 1975 E27 because of crazing (the fine spiderweb like cracks that develope in gel coat). Used West System Epoxy for that project. Repaired a small area of blisters and did complete barrier coat on my 1980 E30+ using West System for filling & fairing and VC Tar for the barrier coat. And last but not least, did a complete bottom job on my present E34 using West System to fill & fair and Interlux 2001E for the barrier coat. The 27 & 30 never had another problem as long as I have been aware of their respective locations, and the E34 came out of the water this fall w/o a single blister (thank the gods!!!). Drying is the most important part of the process and as Martin stated the best thing for someone in your position would be to determine the a)is there any areas of high moisture in your lay-up b)open those "wet" areas up by grinding or peeling and let them dry out and c)barrier coat the entire bottom to stop further osmosis. Moisture meters won't tell you exactly how much moisture is present but will give you relative readings on the moisture that is there. I'm unaware of the infared scan but that sounds very interesting if you can locate someone to do it. It is far better to catch this early rather than to wait or as I did buy a boat knowing that you need to do this. It wasn't bad when I was 32 but at 50 I found it really sucks to spend 2 or 3 weakends grinding the gel coat off the bottom. Applying the epoxy itself is not a big job. West System woks well but has a short pot life. VC Tar has a long pot life but is a real bear if you have to go back and do another repair. Interlux 2001 has a decent pot life, rolls on easily, and I am hopeing it works well for the long haul. First year results are very promising but time will tell. The "bottom" line is first you need to determine the moisture content of your laminate and then make a decision on a course of action. Good luck & sail fast Bud E34 "Escapade"  

I can't speak to what Ericson used for resin over the course of decades but would suspect they used the same stuff every other builder in Orange county used. More important was the fact that they laid up by hand, had fairly thick gelcoats, and decent QC. Even with this going for them I have seen blistering in hulls from 1970 right up to 1989 and with so many factors in the equation of why a boat develops them, it's hard to draw any definitive conclusions. Regarding the infrared imaging, the boat in question had a cored hull (be glad you don't) and I am curious as to how well it works on solid layup. It is interesting to note that this boat was peeled twice and still failed to dry out. Only with the infrared mapping was it possible to get a comprehensive picture of the condition. Geoff-again I wouldn't be overly concerned with this in light of the fact that your boat is out of the water 6 months a year. If you get serious about barrier coating, the boat has to be dried out-either in a heated building, or tarped off. In either case, you would pull the stick and mask off the hole and run a dehumidifier 24/7. Alternatively, you could sail her to someplace warm and dry like Mexico and leave her there for a year! Don't laugh, that's where I found my boat. Regards, Martin  

Martin, you are right about being glad I don't have a cored hull. At my yard there was a Sweden 38 on which someone had installed another thruhull without removing the coring around the hole. The thruhull leaked and saturated 8 or 10 feet of the balsa coring. The repair was to strip off the outer fiberglass, cut grooves in the balsa every inch or so, apply heat lamps for a few weeks and then to refill with epoxy and reapply the outer fiberglass. I am sure it was very expensive. BTW, those Pocket Yachts are very pretty boats . . . much like a Friendship sloop. Are they to be made of fiberglass or cold molded? Your father designs very graceful boats, unlike the current trend. PS It seems that the subject of blisters/osmosis is like the Bible (or the law) you can find something to support any position. So here's a more heartening discussion of the problem: http://www.marineaviationpro.com/yacht/blisters.html The author seems to say that water saturation of fiberglass is not the problem since all fiberglass is porous, it's only when the water reacts with unreacted styrene to form a solvent do you get problems in the form of blisters and delamination. He also says that if you haven't had a problem by ten years, you probably won't in the future, a point made by David Pascoe on his web site. If the author is correct, then three conclusions follow, first that quality of layup and materials is the biggest determinant of future problems, second that passage of time is the best indicator of quality (next, I suppose to coring the hull) and third that a moisture meter is not going to tell you anything because all fiberglass allows water to pass through.  

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  • Sailboat Guide

Ericson 29 is a 28 ′ 6 ″ / 8.7 m monohull sailboat designed by Bruce King and built by Ericson Yachts between 1970 and 1978.

Drawing of Ericson 29

Rig and Sails

Auxilary power, accomodations, calculations.

The theoretical maximum speed that a displacement hull can move efficiently through the water is determined by it's waterline length and displacement. It may be unable to reach this speed if the boat is underpowered or heavily loaded, though it may exceed this speed given enough power. Read more.

Classic hull speed formula:

Hull Speed = 1.34 x √LWL

Max Speed/Length ratio = 8.26 ÷ Displacement/Length ratio .311 Hull Speed = Max Speed/Length ratio x √LWL

Sail Area / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the power of the sails relative to the weight of the boat. The higher the number, the higher the performance, but the harder the boat will be to handle. This ratio is a "non-dimensional" value that facilitates comparisons between boats of different types and sizes. Read more.

SA/D = SA ÷ (D ÷ 64) 2/3

  • SA : Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay).
  • D : Displacement in pounds.

Ballast / Displacement Ratio

A measure of the stability of a boat's hull that suggests how well a monohull will stand up to its sails. The ballast displacement ratio indicates how much of the weight of a boat is placed for maximum stability against capsizing and is an indicator of stiffness and resistance to capsize.

Ballast / Displacement * 100

Displacement / Length Ratio

A measure of the weight of the boat relative to it's length at the waterline. The higher a boat’s D/L ratio, the more easily it will carry a load and the more comfortable its motion will be. The lower a boat's ratio is, the less power it takes to drive the boat to its nominal hull speed or beyond. Read more.

D/L = (D ÷ 2240) ÷ (0.01 x LWL)³

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds.
  • LWL: Waterline length in feet

Comfort Ratio

This ratio assess how quickly and abruptly a boat’s hull reacts to waves in a significant seaway, these being the elements of a boat’s motion most likely to cause seasickness. Read more.

Comfort ratio = D ÷ (.65 x (.7 LWL + .3 LOA) x Beam 1.33 )

  • D: Displacement of the boat in pounds
  • LOA: Length overall in feet
  • Beam: Width of boat at the widest point in feet

Capsize Screening Formula

This formula attempts to indicate whether a given boat might be too wide and light to readily right itself after being overturned in extreme conditions. Read more.

CSV = Beam ÷ ³√(D / 64)

TALL RIG: I: 38.30’ / 11.67m J: 12.25’ / 3.73m P: 32.50’ / 9.91m E: 9.92’ / 3.02m Tot. SA (100%): 395.27 ft2 / 36.72 m2 Mast height above DWL: 42.33’/12.8m Dimension from Owners Manual. Thanks to ERICSON 29 owner Todd S. for providing corrections.

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VIDEO

  1. Spinning a sailboat at the dock

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  6. 1967 26’ Ericson Sailboat

COMMENTS

  1. ERICSON 32 (SCORPION)

    The SCORPION hulls were built from a mold created from a wood 5.5 meter boat in which George O'Day won the 1960 Olympics. In 1967 Ericson produced 24 of these modeled after the COLUMBIA SABRE and called them the SCORPION 32. It was Ericson's original 32′ yacht, sometimes called the ERICSON 32-I. It is nearly […]

  2. Ericson Yachts (USA)

    Ericson Yachts was founded by a number of former employees of Columbia Yachts. With a few exceptions, the Ericson line was a collaboration with designer Bruce King. Though many Ericson models sold extremely well, the company had a turbulent history financially from the beginning with numerous changes in ownership. In 1968 the company became a subsidiary of Pacific American Industries and a new ...

  3. 1967 Ericson 26

    Jan 12, 2007. #1. I have been looking at a 1967 Ericson 26 for sale, and I am wondering if it sounds too good to be true because it is too good to be true. It is a 1967 model E26 and is currently in the water at a lake nearby and it is sitting on its waterline (meaning no obvious leaks, I assume). The price is $4200, and that includes a six ...

  4. Ericson 32 (Scorpion)

    The SCORPION hulls were built from a mold created from a wood 5.5 meter boat in which George O'Day won the 1960 Olympics. In 1967 Ericson produced 24 of these modeled after the COLUMBIA SABRE and called them the SCORPION 32. It was Ericson's original 32' yacht, sometimes called the ERICSON 32-I. It is nearly identical to the COLUMBIA ...

  5. Ericson 35-1

    Ericson 35-1 is a 34′ 8″ / 10.6 m monohull sailboat designed by Carl Alberg/Bruce King and built by Ericson Yachts between 1967 and 1969.

  6. Ericson Yachts

    Ericson Yachts was founded by a number of former employees of Columbia Yachts. With a few exceptions, the Ericson line was a collaboration with designer Bruce King. ... 41 sailboats built by Ericson Yachts. Sailboat. Ericson 27. ... 1967 • 34 ′ 8 ″ / 10.6 m ...

  7. In Latitude 38, A beautiful 1967 Ericson 30

    I spotted the most beautiful 1967 Ericson 30 imaginable stopped over in my marina yesterday. Upon meeting the owner and looking at the sailboat in person, I was completely blown away by the utterly amazing quality of craftsmanship. In the changes section of last months Lattitude 38, changes...

  8. Ericson 32 scorpion

    The Ericson 32 scorpion is a 32.25ft fractional sloop built in fiberglass by Ericson Yachts (USA) between 1966 and 1967. 24 units have been built. The Ericson 32 scorpion is a light sailboat which is a good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized. It is best suited as a coastal cruiser.

  9. Ericson 41, Used Sailboat Review

    Ericson 41, Used Sailboat Review Solidly built, this early Bruce King design has stood the test of time. By. Darrell Nicholson - Published: December 20, 2006 Updated: March 2, 2020. 0. Facebook. Twitter. Email. Print. ... Ultimately, 50 E-41s were built between 1967 and 1972. Decent boatbuilding and a bad business sense put Ericson on financial ...

  10. Ericson Yachts

    History. Ericson Yachts was founded by Handy and Jenkins in about 1963. They began with molds bought from a defunct builder as well as from an enterprising dump operator. After a year or two of operation, they filed for chapter 11 bankruptcy and were subsequently purchased by Mark Pitman and Del Walton in 1965.

  11. Ericson 30-1

    Ericson 30-1 is a 9.2 m monohull sailboat designed by Bruce King and built by Ericson Yachts between 1967 and 1971. Designer. Bruce King. Builder.

  12. ERICSON 29

    It takes into consideration "reported" sail area, displacement and length at waterline. The higher the number the faster speed prediction for the boat. A cat with a number 0.6 is likely to sail 6kts in 10kts wind, a cat with a number of 0.7 is likely to sail at 7kts in 10kts wind. KSP = (Lwl*SA÷D)^0.5*0.5

  13. Boat: 1967 Ericson 26

    1967 Ericson 26 . This Ericson sailboat has a hull made of fiberglass and has an overall length of 25.75 feet. The beam (or width) of this craft is 79 inches. This sailboat is rigged as a Sloop. The sail area for the boat is 304 square feet. Approximate displacement for the vessel comes in at around 4400 pounds.

  14. Best Ericson Sailboats: A Complete Guide

    2. Ericson 27. r32_damax. The Ericson 27 debuted in 1971 with a displacement of 6,600 pounds and plenty of stability in the masthead sloop. The boat is roughly 27 feet long and sits about four feet in the water. Many love this design since it navigated through choppy waters and responded to wind changes well.

  15. Boat: 1967 Ericson 35

    The 1967 Ericson 35 sailboat has a fiberglass hull and has an overall length of 34.75 feet (sometimes referred to as LOA). The width (or beam) of this craft is 98 inches. This boat is rigged as a Sloop. The sail area for the sailboat is 544 square feet. The displacement for the boat is approximately 12000 lbs.

  16. Ericson 35

    Ericson Yachts has gotten a lot of mileage out of 35-footers over the years. Way back when in 1965, the first Ericson 35 was a typical CCA cruising boat, with a long keel and attached rudder. In 1969, the Ericson 35-2 was introduced. A Bruce King design—as was the original 35—the 35-2 was an up-to-date racer/cruiser, with swept-back ...

  17. 1967 Ericson 26

    For What It's Worth Dept. I bought a '77 Cape Dory 25 that was sitting on a storage trailer. It had been sailed from Seattle to Alaska and then down to San Diego. It weights around 2 tons or a bit more. After $1,800 getting the trailer legal and restrenghtened, I brought it home to totally redo...

  18. Boat: 1967 Ericson 30

    1967 Ericson 30 . This Ericson 30 sailboat has a fiberglass hull and an LOA of 30.25 feet (length over all). The boat has a 96 inch beam. This sailboat is set up to sail as a Sloop. The craft has 425 square feet of sail area. Displacement for the boat is 7400 lbs. The draft of this sailboat is approximately 5'0".

  19. Ericson 35 1

    The Ericson 35 1 is a 34.75ft masthead sloop designed by Carl Alberg/Bruce King and built in fiberglass by Ericson Yachts (USA) between 1967 and 1969. 45 units have been built. The Ericson 35 1 is a heavy sailboat which is a reasonably good performer. It is very stable / stiff and has an excellent righting capability if capsized.

  20. ericson 26 circumnavatigation!

    Jul 8, 2002. #1. ericson 26 circumnavatigation!! i have just bought a 1967 ericson 26,and am in the process of an overhaul.i am going to circumnavigate in the old dog and wondered what improvements i should make. the reason i chose this boat was ,that, with so much talk of other vessels that have made it,i thought it was time the e26 had a shot.

  21. Ericson 29

    Ericson 29 is a 28′ 6″ / 8.7 m monohull sailboat designed by Bruce King and built by Ericson Yachts between 1970 and 1978. ... Sail area in square feet, derived by adding the mainsail area to 100% of the foretriangle area (the lateral area above the deck between the mast and the forestay). D: ...